Aluminum Tape for Model Airplane Skin Panels - Flite Metal

Another Quick Tips - Pro Results episode that highlights the use of aluminum foil tape to create realistic panels on your scale models. This video uses Flite Metal products aluminum.
#scatchbuildingmodels #modelairplanepanels #flitemetal
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Links to Products used in this video build:
Flite Metal: flitemetal.com/
Riveting tool: umm-usa.com/onlinestore/produc...
HVAC tape: amzn.to/2zHzTtG
Razor Blade: amzn.to/3d0OkqW
Micro Drill: amzn.to/2Zw1Rmx
Straight Pins: amzn.to/2UUCZ50
Pin Vice: amzn.to/2YVZlEv
Fine Sandpaper: amzn.to/3hzgbBf
Other products on the bench:
Airbrush: amzn.to/36tu5zH
Compressor: amzn.to/2A4vkt8
Tamiya Paints: amzn.to/2LTSmph
Tamiya Thinner: amzn.to/3cUxOZE
AK Gauzy: amzn.to/3dr4Lxf
AK Thinner: amzn.to/302UXFU
Oil Paints: amzn.to/3gkn4pp
Mineral Spirits: amzn.to/2yu67bf
Brushes: amzn.to/3goPPSf
Tamiya Fine Putty: amzn.to/36turX3
Olfa Circle Cutter: amzn.to/2Avly3V
Evergreen Styrene: amzn.to/2B4zJN2
Tamiya Cement: amzn.to/3ghZWbk
CA glue: amzn.to/2Mn67x1
Dental Resin Powder: amzn.to/2BSEz0o
Tamiya Fine Putty: amzn.to/36turX3
Tamiya Tape: amzn.to/2WZbxED
Solder Wire: amzn.to/2Yr5tEj
Sanding Pads: amzn.to/3c5io3K
Copper Wire: amzn.to/3eGLPL2
Solder Wire: amzn.to/2AzclXM
The Camera I use to shoot the video: amzn.to/3bXlMxl

[@rfortier1615]

Careful. As a HVAC Tech I have sliced my finger more than once running my finger over it.

[@FlyingSModels]

Yep, care is need. Appreciate the heads up and reminder.

[@chilarai1]

Wow. This hobby is an endless ocean of invaluable knowledge. Thank you so much.

[@FlyingSModels]

Hope it helps. Appreciate you taking the time to provide some positive feedback. Cheers!

[@ScottysScaleStudio]

Neat technique for the toolbox Chad, going to have a try with this real soon. Thanks for sharing!

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks S3. Like you said, just another tool in the toolbox!

[@mavos1211]

Adam savage swears by that HVAC tape, he uses it to make his wood swords look like metal. Very cleaver thank you for sharing.

[@FlyingSModels]

I've used both the HVAC tape and the Flite Metal stuff. The Flite Metal works a little better for these models but for small areas, the HAVC tape is fine. It's also less expensive. I hadn't seen any of the Adam Savage stuff but I'll have to check that out now. Thanks for sharing.

[@toddac61]

@@FlyingSModels Also if the HVAC tape has writing on it like UL listed Acetone will take it right off.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@toddac61 Good intel but Acetone aint too good for foam or other materials so it's a good warning and a good tip all at the same time. Thanks!

[@toddac61]

@@FlyingSModels Just wipe the lettering off before applying and let it evaporate.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@toddac61 Roger that. Thanks!

[@christiandtorres9843]

I love that your building an argentine plane model

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you. It's a long term project for sure.

[@RichardsModellingAdventures]

Me and my dad used to do this over 40 years ago with the dull side of thin kitchen foil. apply a thin layer of varnish on both the model and the foil, let both go tacky and lay it on. Took a bit of practice but we did a 24th scale Airfix P51 mustang all over. It looked amazing. It looks great when you weather the paint off too on leading edges and walk ways etc.

[@FlyingSModels]

Outstanding! This is a little less labor intensive due to the factory applied adhesive. It's also a little thicker than foil which helps to make some things like wing fillets and such a bit more prominent. It's also a little more heavy duty and can be sanded and polished to create different sheens/effects. Thanks for the great inputs on an alternate approach.

[@jayrohumbertoguzmanvalenci1351]

Proffesional, and efective. Like natural metal finish. Thanks, for this amazing trick. Greetings from Guatemala, the Land of Quetzal Bird, simbol of Freedom.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you for you kind feedback. Hope the videos help!

[@wingnutzster]

I have lots of aluminium tapes from a variety of manufacturers and countries but none of it is as wonderfully thick as the stuff you're demonstrating here, every difficulty I have encountered has come down to the lightness of the material - if I could find a thich tape like this it would be a pleasure to work with. Great video

[@FlyingSModels]

Not sure if you have the ability to order it but Flite-Metal is still available. I don't have any association with them but it's good stuff!

[@nigel900]

Excellent! Very clever.

[@FlyingSModels]

Appreciate that. Just another tool to use when the need arises. Cheers!

[@ScaleAero]

Wonderful demonstration of how r/c modeling products can provide excellent results on both plastic and wood non-r/c models . I recommend sanding Flite-Metal while taped to a flat cookie sheet before removal of the backing to achieve the desired patina and surface texture "prior" to applying it to your model. 👍 In r/c applications a small electric 1/4 sheet palm sander is used to quickly reduce the surface texture to the desired appearance and permit Flite-Metal to condense prior to polishing and or weathering... "For The Look Of The Real Thing"😎. Flite-Metal is dead soft .0018 mil...not gutter tape. Burnishing and finishing tools accompany "FK" packaged Flite-Metal. Excellent video !

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you for the feedback and the bonus content to supplement the video. Those are some great inputs on how to improve the surface finish/quality of the Flite-Metal. I'm going to have to try them. It's great stuff and I want to eventually put it on a small R/C foamy as well. Thank you again!!

[@joekmodels]

Great tip! This is very cool indeed, first time I've seen this

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks, Joe. Hope you can use it on a future build. Works great!

[@JoannaHammond]

Very nice tip.

[@FlyingSModels]

Hope it helps!

[@dragonsword7370]

now you have me wanting build model planes from frames and use the hvac or flitemetal to skin the plane. Thanks!

[@FlyingSModels]

I look forward to hearing how it goes. Keep me posted, please.

[@busmirror]

A simple method to remove the backing from anything having a protective film over the adhesive is to cover a corner or edge with a piece of masking tape, let it extend past the edge. Turn the item over and repeat the process. Let the masking tape pieces stick to itself at the backing and face, now simultaneously pull the masking tape pieces away from themselves, it will easily separate the backing and facing.

[@FlyingSModels]

Great tip. Thank you for sharing. I obviously needed some help trying to fat finger that backing...haha. Really appreciate you taking the time to provide this great tip/instruction.

[@busmirror]

@@FlyingSModels Glad to help.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@busmirror Appreciate that.

[@hlcepeda]

In the September 1995 issue of _R/C Jet International_ magazine, is an article (Scale Metal Finishing Pt.2; pages 46-49) of how to attain even greater realism with applied metal tape. Once applied, separate panels can be subtly differentiated from one another (as is noticed on actual aircraft): The process involves coloring various individual panels with varying _subtle_ shades/tints of chalk dust, then rubbing said panels with various grades of fine wire wool. I still have a copy of that issue, and the color images show phenomenal realism; that was on a large scale R/C BVM kit model. As an experiment, I tried it some years back on a section of a sacrificial 1/48 plastic model; the results were very good, but the smaller scale requires a softer, more careful hand.

[@FlyingSModels]

That's some good back story on the use of this or similar products to finish larger aircraft. I remember seeing the BVM Viper in action way back when at Jets over Deland in FL. Loved watching those rip through the sky. You are correct in that it takes a little more work to do a whole model in this smaller scale. I typically only use the technique for raised panel areas like wing fillets and such. Appreciate the good comments/inputs.

[@hlcepeda]

@@FlyingSModels 👍✈️

[@Broadshore]

God! I need to get back into scratch building myself... GREAT Video!

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks for the good words. It takes a while but nothing more rewarding.

[@davidhenryandthemysterons3220]

I have a good collection of foil plains I built in the COVID year. I was very happy with the results 😃. I found application of glue to the foil

[@FlyingSModels]

Excellent. Would love to see some if you want to share some pics over on my facebook page.

[@TheDrAkira]

Like because you are putting together a IA-58 Pucará! I never thought that other than us Argentinians like this great ground attack airplane :)

[@FlyingSModels]

Hahaha...I love that plane. And I'm guessing no mainstream manufacturer will make one in 1/32. But if I get it done, I'm sure they will make one. That's the way it always goes.

[@kurttank3081]

siiii, es un PUCARA!!!! Argentino

[@emilflognoid1532]

This would be a cool way to do the Razor Crest from the Mandalorian, or a Back to the Future Delorean

[@FlyingSModels]

For sure. All kinds of great applications! Good suggestions.

[@Antiganos]

Fun fact, they used this exact technique on the Razor Crest for the miniature shots, resin printed base plus HVAC paneling.

[@oribarsan9873]

nice video, always wanted to find out how to do this technique. One tip, could you fix your camera aperture so you can cover more depth, its frustrating when most of the important bits are out of focus.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you and I appreciate the video tip. Still trying to figure out the camera and a better setup. Thank you for that feedback. I'm going to try to make some adjustments.

[@terifarley4770]

B-36 magnesium & Aluminum paneling contrast ease now thanks for this tip!

[@terifarley4770]

Perfect for weathering of painted panels now to like on a B-17 or C-47 seeing a lot of combat, just wear wing and cowling edges to expose the aluminum, make flak shrapnel scuffs as well!

[@FlyingSModels]

Now that will be spectacular! Good luck with the Peacemaker and have fun!

[@FlyingSModels]

For sure! Makes chipping and weathering quite realistic!

[@raysno8367]

Probably get a good weathering effect too !

[@FlyingSModels]

For sure. Totally legit chipping and weathering.

[@thomasblitz3884]

I like it very good. Really fantástic excellent.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you, Thomas!

[@TheWirksworthGunroom]

Interesting technique and very fine model making. The foil tape is in common use in the aviation industry, often known as "speed tape". It comes on a roll, 2" wide is a common size. As aviation is very highly regulated, shelf-life expired rolls are often disposed of so if you know somebody who works in the field, you can probably get the stuff for free or for a few beers.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks for the kind words and thank you for the excellent tip. Now I need to talk to my aviation buddies and get some of that expired tape. Good tip!

[@guidosarducci3047]

good post.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you, Guido!

[@ploppysonofploppy6066]

Alumin(I)um!!🤭 Sorry, couldn't resist. Got to try this. Too many kits have panel lines too deep, and "trenched" rather than overlapping. This could be the answer. Thank you.

[@FlyingSModels]

It works great for overlapping panels. A little tricky to work around some very small compound curves and I've never tried to to an entire model with the stuff. But it certainly is another tool in the tool box for us.

[@tjfSIM]

To be fair, the element was originally named as per the American form. It was us Brits who insisted on changing the name, to make it sound more ‘latin’. Both forms are acceptable. diecasting.com/blog/2014/02/26/aluminum-vs-aluminium-the-etymology-of-the-um-and-ium-debate/

[@FRITZI999]

Americans..... ;-)

[@ploppysonofploppy6066]

@@tjfSIM I've been forced to notice the English language in a way I wouldn't normally. My son is dyslexic and he's highlighted the fact that the language often makes no sense! The meaning is the most important thing, as long as the pronunciation "aluminum" cannot be confused with anything else who cares?

[@FlyingSModels]

Good point. And the English language is a funny thing, that's for sure. So many difference pronunciations for words that are spelled the same.

[@mirrorblue100]

This video is super informative - thanks. Another topic I'd like to see you address is canopy masking. JG

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks! I've been looking for the right way to shoot that video (canopy masking) but it's definitely one that's in the works.

[@FinsburyPhil]

@@FlyingSModels sorry, late to this. I've just started using thin 'Bare Metal Foil' for canopy masking and the results are excellent.

[@billlong9606]

I thought you were going to do an 'all bare metal finish' Pucara at first (which would be daft unless you want to dazzle your ground targets to death!) but this technique is much more subtle than that -excellent work.

[@FlyingSModels]

No, Bill, no all metal Pucara although it would certainly dazzle the ground targets...haha. Just wanted to show how the metal sheet could be used to create different surface features on the Pucara. Thanks for your kind words!

[@digitalartee]

Nice

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks!!

[@youknoweverything7643]

I been doing this for years on my 1/24 scale model cars to simulate bare aluminum interior for a pro mod or street / strip drag car build and of course the 1/32 scale and bigger model planes I been doing this to for years since I was 10 and now I'm 30 and guess what it doesn't yellow or peel up after years

[@FlyingSModels]

Excellent. It is a great product/tool to have at our disposal. Appreciate the feedback!

[@ScaleMilitaryModels]

Really interesting technique! I wonder if you even have to paint it, if the aircraft is bare alumnium

[@FlyingSModels]

That's the great part, no painting required as it's actually aluminum!

[@Pinkielover]

Aluminum foil and pressure sensitive glue works great

[@FlyingSModels]

For sure. That does work well also. I like the fact that the Flite Metal comes with adhesive on it.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

I like the BareMetalFoil product - it is available in a variety of surface finishes, adheres extremely well, and is extremely thin.

[@FlyingSModels]

It is a good product and a good bit thinner than the Flite Metal. I like the lapped joints that can be created with the Flite Metal product a little better.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

@@FlyingSModels I think there's definitely a place for both. Definitely some aircraft had overlapping panels which is definitely an area where a thicker foil would shine - but of course there are plenty of examples where skin panel joints are flush-fitted, especially once you get into the jet era.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@chuckschillingvideos Indeed. I like the bare metal for the more modern aircraft.

[@ohgary]

To remove backing flick the corner with your thumb and middle finger. The two parts will separate just enough to grasp one side and start peeling.

[@FlyingSModels]

Another great tip. I appreciate you sharing with the community here. Cheers!

[@wildatlanticman128]

V cool.👍🏻

[@FlyingSModels]

Appreciate that!

[@revvingnoodle7192]

After seeing this quick tip video, makes me think if getting the hughes H-1 racer be completely taped over and weathered to give it that nice effect

[@FlyingSModels]

That would look amazing. If you do it, make sure to share some pics over on my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels or through the contact section on my website: flyingSmodels.square.site. Thanks!

[@revvingnoodle7192]

@@FlyingSModels oh no, i don't have the kit or the materials for it but i thought it be interesting idea to see someone try it out, the H-1 racer, as wellas the commecial airliners used by the american airlines aluminum finish, but sounds good idea to try nonetheless

[@FlyingSModels]

@@revvingnoodle7192 For sure!!

[@healey100austin]

Cotton buds/q tips work a treat for burnishing.👍

[@FlyingSModels]

That is a great tip. Thanks for sharing.

[@healey100austin]

@@FlyingSModels no probs 👍

[@FlyingSModels]

@@healey100austin Keep the good comments coming. Helps not only me but the entire community here. Thanks!!

[@rossie273]

i shall try this on a scratch built steel hulled paddle steamer - thanks

[@FlyingSModels]

I bet that it will work great and look even better!!

[@Pingolavau]

Very nice videos !! Is there any link to how you are building the Pucara ? I am very interested in learning scratch building techniques. Thank you.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks! I haven't made that particular video yet as it is a pretty long process. But I'm certainly thinking about how to do it and will plan something in the future. In the meantime, you can message me through facebook/flyingSmodels or the the contact info at flyingSmodels.com if you want to know more about my particular methods.

[@MegaBIGJOE64]

Nice tip but, what's the adventage of putting a metal layer to create the details over doing the details on the plastic model itself ?

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks. The metal can bend and warp around compound curves unlike the plastic, unless you thermo form it. Appreciate the feedback!

[@spankyharland9845]

I been using aluminum tape on many of my models- works nice except it will make your model a bit heavier than normal. I used it on a 1/72 scale C47- aluminized the entire model and it weighed more than it did if I left plastic.

[@FlyingSModels]

Does add some weight so you have to make sure to take that into effect.

[@spankyharland9845]

@@FlyingSModels if you ever build the Apollo command module and lunar module, this stuff makes it look good. :)

[@FlyingSModels]

@@spankyharland9845 I bet it does. I haven't build any real space models but would be good to try this stuff out on it. Thanks for the input!

[@ericking7406]

Many years ago we used cooking foil glued on shiney side down

[@FlyingSModels]

Yep, that works too but this is a bit better to me.

[@CrusaderSports250]

You sometimes saw people using litho plate in the seventies to produce all metal finishes, they were a true work of art, foil tape still requires care and skill but is so much easyer and its thinner and more readily available, got a roll from my local tool stockist.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@CrusaderSports250 I agree. I only used the plate a few times and not for entire builds. This Flite Metal stuff is far better and easier to use, at least to me. For those that can pull it off, a real metal skinned model is indeed a work of art.

[@thomaswilson3437]

Nice.... I was using the aluminum tape for seatbelts...

[@FlyingSModels]

That's a good use too. Although I prefer the use of pewter foil for the belts. I think it lays down better (just my opinion, though). You can check it out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2GtfYKqmt6ae5I

[@thomaswilson3437]

@@FlyingSModels I did see your vid and I would agree with you...but I haven't had any at hand and forget to look for it when I go out....also, my glasses are constantly fogged from having to wear a mask so wouldn't see it anyway.... : )

[@FlyingSModels]

@@thomaswilson3437 I hear you. Hard to do any shopping when wearing glasses and a mask. Glad you are staying safe, though!

[@tyfon4429]

Have a Good One bro.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks! You too!

[@SullieStrings]

So could you use this as a way to “wrap” the model instead of painting it? This is very interesting, thanks!

[@FlyingSModels]

Yep. Another guy commented here that he did just that with his small RC foamy and he said it worked great! I only painted it here as the Pucara was going to be painted rather than left in a natural metal finish.

[@vmoney9106]

I would say for a scale model it would be easier to paint it if you want a bare metal finish, as I haven’t seen many foiled projects that dont have a lot of foil texture. Your idea of creating raised panels (and painting with a primer like Mr Surfacer) is a great idea. I have seen an alternative method of taping off the area in question and brushing on Mr Surfacer and then sanding it down to create a raised panel look

[@FlyingSModels]

@@vmoney9106 Yep, I haven't done a whole static model with Flite Metal and don't think I would, unless it was a much larger scale. I do like it for building up raised panels as it's easier to work with (at least to me) than laying down a coat of Mr. Surfacer or similar. Appreciate the comments.

[@ericheckenkamp6091]

I'm modelling some stuff for a table top RPG and looking for Flash Gordon style rocketships. Up until now I have built the rockets at all. I have a gang plank they use to enter the battle map. I just can't make a good looking retro sci fi rocket that looks good. Everything I build looks like too "star wars"...this is what I need to tip it to "retro" science fiction! This technique, some oatmeal tubes and disposable contact lens containers are gonna make some ROCKETSHIPS!

[@FlyingSModels]

This will definitely satisfy your "retro" needs. Would love to see some pics of your work if you want to share them!!

[@warbuzzard7167]

Nice tips. RC modelers: aluminum foil may compromise your radio signal reception! Use with caution. This effect may be ideal for statics, though.

[@FlyingSModels]

I've wondered too about whether or not fuel from the exhaust would effect the long term adhesion of the foil on the RC planes. Works well for the static ones I build.

[@FRITZI999]

connect the Antenna to the Skin - THEN you have a giant Antenna ;-)

[@daverose8772]

You should run your antenna leads to the outside of the plane for RC use.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@daverose8772 For sure, Dave. Appreciate you making that point for those wanting to use this technique on RC aircraft.

[@warbuzzard7167]

@@daverose8772 What happens when you're going the other way? Now you are trying to receive RF through TWO layers of aluminum foil - not a good plan for reception.

[@johnrettig1880]

I've got two (2 ) Guillow's B - 29's in 1/32'nd scale that I've been wanting to build . And I've completely forgot about this technique . Now all I've got to do is get an order of 1:32 inch bass or balsa wood to do the main skinning . Once that's done with my next step is to scratch build the cockpit (s) . YYYYIIIIPPPPPYYYYY !!!!!

[@FlyingSModels]

Sounds like an awesome project. Keep me posted on it. Look forward to seeing some pics!

[@johnrettig1880]

@@FlyingSModels Thanks And yes it is but it's going to be a little while before I get to them . Each has roughly 4 ft wingspan and about 3 1/2 ft fuselage . One will be the classic Enola Gay and the other one well have a 1/32'nd scale Bell X-1 Glamorous Glennis in the belly .

[@FlyingSModels]

@@johnrettig1880 Totally understand. Epic projects always take time. Best of luck on them. 2 perfect choices!!

0:21 The Argentine IA-58 Pucara. 😁

[@FlyingSModels]

Indeed!

[@ilovegod1870]

Can you polish the foil back to its orignal state or even more?`And thank you for your video

[@FlyingSModels]

Yes, using various grades of fine sandpaper, you can polish it to a high sheen. Hope this helps.

[@ilovegod1870]

@@FlyingSModels Yes that helps, thank you!

[@FlyingSModels]

@@ilovegod1870 Excellent. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

[@SteveBueche1027]

Quick tip for backing removal: Lise another piece of exposed tape to grab those corners. Saves you hours of frustration

[@FlyingSModels]

Great tip, Jackson. Appreciate you sharing with us. Cheers!

[@YTjndallas]

FlyingSModels Or grow some fingernails.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@YTjndallas hahaha...yes, that's yet another approach.

[@totalhobby1]

What is the make of the kit?

[@FlyingSModels]

There's no kit. I am making this 1/32 IA-58 Pucara from scratch. Slowly but surely 😀

[@redbandit8757]

maybe foil vinyl from 3M would work better when you wet apply it?

[@FlyingSModels]

Have not tried that it might be worth a look. I appreciate the suggestion!

[@rogerairborne]

I am an aircraft mechanic.. very realistic...

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks for the expert endorsement. Appreciate the feedback!

[@dermotanthonydavidkyne1019]

The very thin foil in packets of cigarettes is even better. It is much thinner, and easier to work with. And the effect is also more "realistic."

[@FlyingSModels]

Great suggestions, although I don't smoke or know anyone that does so I'll have to go dumpster diving to find some...haha. I actually like the Flite Metal stuff as it stands proud on the surface of the model which helps when I build up layers of primer (I don't lose some of the raised/relief effects). Thank you for sharing this additional resource with the community here. All the best, Chad.

[@kl0wnkiller912]

Where did you find a Pucara in 1/32 scale?

[@FlyingSModels]

No kit out there. Just building it from scratch. Cheers!

[@tavo313able]

@@FlyingSModels wow!!!!!

[@soknightsam]

Think I'll give this a go on a small foam rc plane. Love the little planes but hate the look of foam

[@FlyingSModels]

Let me know how it works. When I was flying foamies, I'd always airbrush and weather my little warbirds but never tried to put aluminum over the foam. Would give a great look!

[@soknightsam]

@@FlyingSModels Will do. Done the air brushing too though it looks better it doesn't add too much to damage resistance. Hopefully the tape will keep the cheapo foam in the air longer because they sure are fun to beat on for the buck

[@FlyingSModels]

@@soknightsam Amen to that. Hard to beat them for "pound for pound" fun. I'm guessing it makes 'em a little more durable. I used to spend hours and hours redoing the schemes with a custom airbrushed/weathered finish only to auger it in on the maiden flight...haha.

[@soknightsam]

@@FlyingSModels Reporting in. Wasn't as bad as I thought. I cut mirrored panels and kind of jig sawed it together. Doesn't look half bad and only added 4 grams total for a 12 inch foamy. It's still too cold and windy to fly in Houston but I'd put money on the investment it holds up better. Lots of smiles per dollar

[@FlyingSModels]

@@soknightsam Thanks for the report. Only 4 grams sounds doable. From what I'm hearing, definitely not the right weather in Houston yet, even indoors. Sorry about all that. Looking forward to a report on flight/durability. Would love to see some pics if you want to share. I could even post them on the community tab to share with others here. If you want to, you can contact me through the contact section over on my website: flyingsmodels.square.site/

[@normg2242]

This looks oddly satisfying...lol

[@FlyingSModels]

Strangely enough, it is :)

[@centerspike6613]

A nice way to skin a foamy

[@FlyingSModels]

I have to try that. I had a bunch of foamies but never tried to stick the stuff to it. Thanks!

[@duartesimoes508]

A Pucara! Who's the manufacturer?

[@FlyingSModels]

FMA (Fábrica Militar de Aviones) in Argentina.

[@Boeing767DriverAA]

Flite Metals website is up but no one's at home.... They never answer emails been trying to order for weeks Guess Ill use HVAC or speed tape instead

[@FlyingSModels]

I'll have to give them a try as well. Been a couple of years since I have dealt with them so hopefully Covid didn't cause them to close up shop. I found the Flite Metal much easier to work with than HVAC tape. Sorry to hear that but thanks for the comment for info.

[@Boeing767DriverAA]

@@FlyingSModels If you're able to reach them please let me know I hope they havent closed up shop

[@tboy630]

Show your moldprocess.

[@FlyingSModels]

Been thinking about making a video for that. It's a pretty long and drawn out process.

[@jcbraka3771]

Where you get this IA-53?? I've been looking for it almost a life!

[@FlyingSModels]

Making it from scratch. No kit out there that I know of...at least not yet :)

[@jcbraka3771]

@@FlyingSModels Looks very well done just like an injected model. Congrats and excelente idea!

[@FlyingSModels]

@@jcbraka3771 Appreciate that, JC. It's one of those long term projects that I will work on in between other less challenging builds. Cheers!!

[@hercholand]

In Argentina you can buy some 1/72 Pucara models !!!

[@Coyote27981]

@J C Braka IA-58 is the Pucará. IA-53 is a crop duster called Mamboretá

[@justincollins8537]

This foil tape looks like the same tape used when using celotex insulation when house building

[@FlyingSModels]

The Flite Metal is thinner and a little more "refined" if that even makes sense. But I've used regular HVAC tape as well with good results.

[@jeffevans3193]

Why not tin foil most scaled look?

[@FlyingSModels]

I've tried that too. It works well but does have to have foil adhesive applied and I had less control using that method than using the Flite Metal that comes with a uniform adhesive already applied to the foil. But yes, you can certainly use tin foil and even boil it will some egg shells to tin the foil. Very neat effect.

[@jeffevans3193]

@@FlyingSModels good to know thanks

[@leewriter4656]

After watching this video and seeing all the comments, I'm shocked to learn that so many "grown men" are playing with these model kits.

[@FlyingSModels]

Hahaha....I know. I guess we never grow up, only grow old ;)

[@fasold2164]

2:20: Longer fingernails are helpful...

[@FlyingSModels]

True that.

[@bartomiejbudnik4047]

The best way to remove paper of, is to tear off (on the side of unused part) from the roll or cutted area. I cursed the moment many times if I tried to remove paper of of the aluminium duct tape. Cutting was the worse way.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@bartomiejbudnik4047 For sure. Much easier if going from the torn side.

[@jeffhallel8211]

Suggestion: Show the model box.

[@FlyingSModels]

What box are you referring to? The 1/32 Pucara I show is scratch built. There's no box for that one. I certainly could have shown the PCM box but that kit was just to demo the process. Thanks for the comment!

[@jeffhallel8211]

@@FlyingSModels Thanks for showing the metal techniqes. I'm just suggesting that you make it clear to the audience what type of aircraft you are working on.You said something about Argentina so I am thinking Pulqui.Your work on the model does not show if the plane is jet powered or prop.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@jeffhallel8211 Copy that, Jeff. I mention in the video that it is a scratch built, IA-58 Pucara. The intent of the video was to show the aluminum skinning rather than a specific model but I should have made that more clear. Since the Pucara is scratch built, I could have shown some pics or drawings. Appreciate your suggestions.

[@mikejungferman4744]

I thought it would look cool in foil , like a P-51

[@FlyingSModels]

For sure. Everything looks cool in natural metal!

[@Lozzie74]

How did you build the Pucara? Btw, it’s pronounced “poo-CA-ra”. It looks AWESOME!

[@FlyingSModels]

Thanks for the correction on the pronunciation. I'll try to remember that. I also appreciate the kind words on the work itself. With regards to the building of the Pucara, all of the cockpit parts are being built from sheet, rod, and square styrene. The fuselage was created using a mold I made. I built a wood male plug and then made a female mold from that. I then did a resin layup in the female mold to create a "hollow cast" fuselage section. Then, lots of sanding the detail work. Still a lot of work ahead. It's a long term project for sure.

[@daniellucena9694]

Great job sir!!!thank you for sharing your technique!!Like.

[@FlyingSModels]

Thank you Daniel. Hope it helps.

[@martindione386]

nope, it's poo-ca-RA, the accent is in the final syllable, Pucará

[@FlyingSModels]

@@martindione386 Thanks for helping us all out. I'm so confused...haha.

[@GastonMaqueda]

I didn't know the IA-58 exist in a scale model

[@kl0wnkiller912]

Planet Models has one in 1/72... its a pretty poor kit tho... I saw the picture and that is what drew me here too. He says it is scratchbuilt but I don't know where he got the kit though... that is what I was waiting to hear...

[@GastonMaqueda]

@@kl0wnkiller912 During the 90s I become crazy searching for this model.

[@FlyingSModels]

There are a few scale model kits of the IA-58. I think that Special Hobby makes a good one in 1/72 and Kinetic just released a new tooled injection molded kit in 1/48. I have built the 1/48 resin Aconcagua Pucara in the past and I believe that it is now available through Dukel Hobbies out of Argentina. I believe the kit has been reworked a little to make it even better. Here is the link for that one: dukelhobbies.com.ar/tienda/aviones-modelos/aviones-dukel-hobbies/aviones-dukel-hobbies-1-48/f-m-a-ia-58a-pucara/ I am making the one shown in the video from scratch. It's in 1/32 scale. I've never seen a kit of the Pucara in 1/32.

[@tylerbonser7686]

Is this a frog plane? why would you want ribits on it?

[@FlyingSModels]

That's a good one. Thank you for the laugh :)

[@tylerbonser7686]

@@FlyingSModels couldn't help myself. Great video.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@tylerbonser7686 I needed a good laugh. Thanks!

[@robot7759]

Scratch build? 🤔

[@FlyingSModels]

Yep, a little at a time. A real long term project for sure.

[@robertjensen1094]

Just a comment for the algorithm.

[@FlyingSModels]

The algorithm appreciates you :)

[@Karrde]

@@FlyingSModels The algorithm is working, I don't even do models and I clicked this video. I don't even know why.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@Karrde Now that's funny. I appreciate the laugh, the comment, and the support to the algorithm....even if you don't know why. Thanks!

[@leeboyd1128]

Why sand it?

[@FlyingSModels]

You don't have too if you wanted it to be natural metal and very shiny. I sanded it to remove slight surface imperfections since I was going to prime it anyway.

[@leeboyd1128]

@@FlyingSModels so you prime the aluminum?

[@hrtpaul]

I need a 1/32 Pucara pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease

[@FlyingSModels]

We sure do. This is one of those long term projects as you can see.

[@marcelorosi7218]

Hi Paul, im Marcelo from Argentina, I have 2 Pucaras 1/48, are interested? please contact me Whatsapp [phone]. Regards

[@FlyingSModels]

What kits (manufacturer) do you have in 1/48?

[@hrtpaul]

@@marcelorosi7218 Which kit is it mate?

[@FlyingSModels]

Sorry, just saw this comment. The Pucara in this video is scratchbuilt in 1/32 scale.

[@Nansen1981]

A kit is not a scratch built model. Otherwise good video.

[@FlyingSModels]

Not really sure what you mean in the comment as the 1/32 Pucara that I referred to ask scratch built is indeed from scratch. The Spitfire "mule" I was using to show the demo certainly is from a kit and I don't think I referred to it as scratch built. I do appreciate the comment, was just confused a little. Cheers!

[@monoped8437]

your voice sounds like billy bob thornton

[@FlyingSModels]

hahaha...I must admit that this is a first :)

[@raymondmckay3237]

3 hours later

[@FlyingSModels]

True, takes some time, that's for sure. But I have been told that good things come to those that wait...haha. Cheers!

[@DougHinVA]

any common-sense modeller uses an X-acto knife to start removing the backing from an adhesive sheet... not a thumb!

[@FlyingSModels]

hahaha....sometimes common sense goes out the window when you start making videos. Good thing I had a knife handy or I would have never gotten the backing off.

[@billthecat129]

@doug h... why dont you show all your common sense techniques on YOUR video...consider reading the "man in the arena" prior to making such comments.

[@michaelhollister7932]

Good idea, but I just use "Bare Metal Foil."

[@FlyingSModels]

That's good stuff too but I kind of like this "flight metal" stuff better than bare metal foil. Just personal preference, though.

[@michaelhollister7932]

@@FlyingSModels How much is the Flight Metal stuff? It would be worth it if cheaper by the roll than one sheet of BMF. BFM is expensive for what you get. But, I only occasionally do a an all-metal aircraft project anyway. Thanks!

[@Gearhead-en8dz]

HVAC foil tape is cheaper by the roll

[@FlyingSModels]

@@Gearhead-en8dz It is cheaper for sure. I've used it with some success. It's a bit thicker than some of the other products and the adhesive is a little gummy and it sometimes comes off when you trim a small piece. Definitely an option, though, especially for small sections.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@michaelhollister7932 Here's the link to the stuff if you want to check it out: form.jotform.us/63326435239154 BMF is pricey for what you get but it's a good bit thinner than the flite metal and may be better for some applications.

[@keithfoster6000]

Done that 35 years ago

[@FlyingSModels]

I just didn't have my channel up 35 years ago...haha

[@FlyingSModels]

Appreciate that, Harald. Dropping the betamax....nice :)

[@ponderin]

But if you don't paint it 🤑

[@FlyingSModels]

Even better!!!

[@ponderin]

@@FlyingSModels I love the old shiny plans lol spend more time at the air force museum than any 25 yr old should lol

[@FlyingSModels]

@@ponderin That's the way to do it and helps keep the 25 year old man out of trouble...haha. Cheers!

[@marvinmartinsYT]

Aluminium. Aluminium. Notice the spelling. Sounds exactly that way as well.

[@FlyingSModels]

Time for me to go back to phonics :)

[@davidbostock6089]

American word, misspelled and mispronounced by English to be consistent with their other mistakes.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@davidbostock6089 Hahaha...made me laugh a little.

[@marvinmartinsYT]

@@FlyingSModels Just being an Aussie lol.

[@marvinmartinsYT]

@@davidbostock6089 Lol.

[@tboy630]

This is not a "scratch" build. A scratch build is when you fabricate all the parts yourself. The model shown here is a "kit".

[@FlyingSModels]

The IA-58 Pucara is scratch built. It is 1/32 scale and I have built all the parts myself. Not sure what makes you think it is a kit.

[@stuartk3498]

Stop biting your finger nails 😀

[@FlyingSModels]

Best comment and advice I've heard...haha.

[@alec_f1]

The texture is not acceptable to me.

[@FlyingSModels]

Ok, I understand, I think. Would be good to understand a little more about what is not acceptable but I understand that people like to work with different materials in our hobby. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@alec_f1]

I mean that those wrinkles don't work on a surface that's supposed to be smooth. It adds an unrealistic texture painted or unpainted. You can tell from a mile away in both shots even though they are not close-ups, they still show that bumpy texture. I understand you want the effect of a raised panel, but you sacrificed much more in return for a wrinkly, bumpy, unrealistic surface.

[@alec_f1]

@@FlyingSModels I was looking specifically for a way to lay down foil and not get that texture.

[@FlyingSModels]

If you want to avoid texture, you might just want to skip foil and go with metal paint. Part of the fun (and maybe problem) with using real metal is that it has a metal texture. Have you tried Bare Metal Foil? It's much thinner and may not have as much of the texture you don't like.

[@FlyingSModels]

Understand. Keep in mind, this was a "quick tip" so I didn't spend too much time burnishing the metal down to smooth it out. You can sand the metal and then polish it to make it smooth. But I recognize that the look is certainly not for everyone.

[@padelisgk8126]

Quick tips , pro results? Get a new tool model.... I want to build a model...not make one ....

[@FlyingSModels]

Hahaha...obviously the scratchbuilt 1/32 Pucara was not the "quick tip" but served as a demo of what can be done with the Aluminum Flite Metal on mainstream kits. Happy Modeling!

[@eskayler66]

SCRATCH BUILT? That's a plastic model

[@FlyingSModels]

The Pucara is scratchbuilt. The Spitfire in the video is a 1/32 PCM plastic model.

[@eskayler66]

@@FlyingSModels You are good then, great job.

[@FlyingSModels]

@@eskayler66 Thanks!

[@tophatvideosinc.5858]

Well show us the whole fucking thing

[@FlyingSModels]

Trying to show a "quick tip", not a whole process with a long video. But you are right, it maybe good to see a final result.