(Pt. 5) HF Blast Cabinet - Quick Change Glass Kit (Harbor Freight)

[@Biokemist-o3k]

The set of videos I keep coming back to for the transformation of my HF glass blaster cabinet!!! Really great videos my friend!!

[@ralabs5864]

Of all the cabinet improvement videos I’ve watched yours is the one I’m following the most on my upgrade. A bit long but end result it’s worth it...Thank you

[@FSU1HEMI1]

Nice video series, helpful tip on the Glass quick change install. Just remove the glove on the left side. And then you can much easier reach in at that point.

[@samuelad]

I read through the comments and saw the answer to my question. I agree with Mike, on the top of the cabinet. The threads of the machine screws sticking out on the inside of the cabinet won't restrict any flow of medium as well as preventing accidental injury from the screws sticking outside the cabinet. Great video series! I plan to watch it again several times before I undertake it on my HF cabinet.

[@1964cali]

Thanks for the video, I really like the way it all came together. “WITH THAT BEING SAID”, hope mine comes out as good.

[@carlosmurphy4u1]

I bought the nut-cert kit from Harbor Freight, works great and FAST. You'll need to get bolts or screws from the hardware store that fit the nut-certs you'll use. I used size 10X24 around 2 1/2". There are four bags of certs in the kit, 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 and 1/4-20, 25 each.

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

The things in the kit you are calling "Nut-Zerts" are also known as Rivet-Nuts, Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive gun (Item # 1210) that comes with an assortment of American thread insert rivets, the gun and the different thread shanks to install each size, (10) Rivet nuts of each size from: 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, and 1/4-20 - you can also get replacement rivets in Aluminum, reg steel and Stainless on eBay in bulk fairly cheap- the gun works exactly like a pop rivet gun, but it threads in and out instead of breaking off when you're done-

[@Silvermeow]

What size is used on this cabinet?

[@LS11971]

@@Silvermeow I used 10/32 thumb screws off McMaster-Carr. The same ones that are in the kit but black instead of red. Plastic-Head Thumb Screws Two-Arm, 10-32 Thread, 1" Long 91185A911

[@Silvermeow]

@@LS11971 thanks but I finished like a year ago

[@avflyguy]

aka Rivnuts, but there is a more simple way and isn't so demaning of an exact drill bit size. They are called "floating nut plates". Those don't have tight tolerances. They thing you DO have to do is pop rivet and anchor. You might also be able to use Tinnerman nuts. Actually, that is quite likely the easiest way instead of spending a ton of time getting Rivnut centered properly than tighten down, must like a rivet anchor (they dont always line up like you thought they would.

[@hndyman43]

Would like to say that because of this video I went and order a kit from Tacoma. Keep posting , Great service for these upgrades!

[@AMetalWorks]

Glad you found the video helpful.

[@carlosmurphy4u1]

The "T-bolts" suck, I used Alan head screws and a electric screw drive, MUCH faster to remove and install. I also used nutserts to install the legs to the cabinet.

[@carlosmurphy4u1]

I used nut-certs to install the legs as well as the window, 1/4x20 for the legs, speeded up the install immensely.

[@faelwolf1177]

Or you can just run the bolts from the inside when you build it, with a dab of JB Weld under the head (keep it off the threads, of course) to keep it in place. Use wing nuts on the outside instead of hex nuts for convenience. Pop the nuts, the bolts hold the glass from slipping off, and swap it out quick.

[@mathewbrown5989]

I went one step further. I ran them "inside out" and used the M6 nut to fix them into place (much like how the entire cabinet was built in this series). Then, I counterbored the back of the plastic bezel with a 3/8" drill bit so it would sit flush on the top face of the cabinet. Then it's a choice of M6 wing nuts (you could force 1/4-20's on there in a pinch), or what I chose which was M6x1.0 knurled thumb nuts with a collar. $3 for 20 of them on Amazon.

[@blwnvtwn]

I used Rivnut's on mine as well, but.... All you really have to do, to get to the nuts worth the regular setup, it's remove the gloves and reach in the glove holes, instead of through the door.

[@molonlabe9917]

Nice job Raphael. Thanks for the video.

[@AMetalWorks]

+LN Mitchell Not a problem and thank you.

[@Hendrix.]

Nice job! Where'd you get those clips that hold the glass in place? I don't need the other stuff, just the clips. Thanks

[@1970chevelle396]

That cabinet is completely rebuilt now.

[@AMetalWorks]

+1970chevelle396 Yup and I'm not finished either. Installing the lights here as soon as I get my butt back into the shop. New gloves are going in too. Got a few more major upgrades to the cabinet on their way to my shop too.

[@michaelgleason4791]

Geeze dude, this series is very informative, but is there a Cliff's Notes version?

[@AMetalWorks]

You can't expect to learn such skills in the cliff notes.

[@phy6heavyindustries898]

Just watch it at 2x, with a glass of wine, that will help.

[@stevanator1630]

@@AMetalWorks i wish you were my neighbor

[@marvin5620]

I can't believe they don't include a drill bit with kit.

[@matt8134]

Why not just tac weld bolts up in there so you have the stud sticking up with a nut on the top. Zip nuts on and off. Much quicker install than the rivet nuts anyway.

[@daubendiek]

The Riv-Nuts you would think is a good idea... they're not, After 50 years in aviation maintenance (where they are largely used) I can tell you they WILL come loose and spin, Then you have to try to drill the head off the screw then figure out how to get the Riv Nut out OR you try to grab the bottom of the riv-nut with vice grips and try to back the screw out then replace the Riv-Nut. These being aluminum Riv-Nuts, the threads in them will strip out very easily, probably when installing it

[@edwardlynch7874]

Where did you get the clips keep the glass from falling? Can I get them at Lowes?

[@flynfocus]

Did you flip all the nuts/bolts around holding the cabinet together, I don't see the long bolt sticking out reversed?

[@hightcd]

"well that being said"...........lol

[@The52brandon]

Just FYI, what you refer to as a "nut-sert" is more widely referred to as a "rivnut"

[@VicV50]

When you used the sand blaster after the upgrade did you have any leakage of media coming out from the edges of the plastic frame? If so do you have a fix for that?

[@AMetalWorks]

No. Some of the media would get up next to the seal but nothing would leak out.

[@pauloneill8912]

what a lot of fekkin about to instal some rivnuts,get on with it man

[@AMetalWorks]

You can find another video to watch...

[@MechaniclifeJDM]

Some of us appreciate the detail brother…thanks.

[@Biokemist-o3k]

Many of us appreciate the detail...Thanks

[@constantzeros7183]

did you go back through and redo all the bolts to have the nuts on the inside of the cabinet?

[@AMetalWorks]

Constant Zero's not the ones in the hopper. Even thou I personally liked them all facing out, for the sake of the video Mike asked me to do that on the ones in the cabinet. So this is why you now see them the other way. He was worried that people would scratch themselves on them. So to try and follow his instructions to the T, I changed them.

[@jrodpadilla22]

What type of seal did you use for the glass? Looking for a flat rubber seal, but would be very helpful to know what type of seal that is. Thanks

[@AMetalWorks]

Part 3 of the video series has the link to the foam tape in the video description.

[@jrodpadilla22]

Thank you very much! Great series!

[@michalaugustyniak6449]

Tacoma sroma, where the f to buy that kind of kits. Buying over the phone, shitty business this days.

[@SMFLEIS]

Way too long a video just get to the point already

[@CajunDoofus]

whould had been faster just to redrill the holes

[@AMetalWorks]

+Fat “Cajun Thibodaux” Cajun But then you'd have two sets of holes and a plastic flange that with holes where it's not designed to have them. If you are talking about running a drill bit down through the plastic flange holes to recenter them. That won't work. You'll end out fighting with it and tear up the plastic flange and or end out out with strange shaped holes that the nutserts won't work in.

[@dougotio]

You should state a price. we know that it will end up being different.buy It will give us a ball park $.

[@AMetalWorks]

I disagree. This video is 7 years old. It has 60 something K views. Posting a price 7 years would have created a nightmare for the Tacoma Company. I have no idea what their prices are right now but I can assure you they went up like everything else.

[@keithnoneya]

The only thing I DONT like about your Cabinet Upgrade videos are the links just short of worthless. It only leads you to the companies home page. They DON'T have a products link to individual items. Ie. the Tacoma Co. you have to email or call the company to get it, you can't just click on a link or even a products link that leads you to a place to buy it. I absolutely hate that about the links provided. I guess if you're a business that's how it's done, but as a small time garage hobbyist that's cumbersome and adds delays and time to my projects at hand. It's faster to go on eBay and buy it, than go to the company. I would say if you're going to feature a product at least provide a link to where you can buy it directly, either from the manufacture direct product link or an authorized seller of that product. If I'm wrong about this, hey drop me a link directly to the featured item. I gave you a "Thumbs Up" for the install video though. Keep up the great videos! A long time subscriber. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@lewisedward9799]

Wahhhhh

[@keithnoneya]

@@lewisedward9799 I'd give you one of those hearts if I could for that reply, LOL 💓💗💗

[@randyrodriguez4186]

i would rather have a dzus fastener. much simpler

[@lewisedward9799]

🤣🤣