AMAZING Post and Beam Joinery with knife plates - heavy timber construction | Barn Building Joinery

[@danielphelan7702]

I love the explanation of the miter joint. Slope it out for expansion and no cracking. Genius! KEEP IT UP!!!

[@svtelos4726]

I love plate joinery its a modern twist to old school timber framing. Once concern is the Long Term life of the project. Timber framing is different than post and beam, mostly in the way the joints are held together. TF uses wood and wood pegs to fasten the joints. Using steel knife plates adds a problem most aren't aware of unless they've been building a long time....Iron sickness or Iron-rot. Using iron/steel allows the oxidation of the wood faster and causes those grey or black streaks. The next best way to use metal knife plates is to use Aluminum plates and aluminum rods as pegs. Works great, no rot and no iron sickness. Yeah, its more expensive. But for a building thats supposed to last more than 100 years, it may be worth it.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

Good point. Something we'll need to keep an eye on over time.

[@david22202]

VERY nice work Logan/Team! Awesome!!!!!!

[@tabernac88]

Very cool joint. My main question with joints like this: how do you drill those really deep holes through the timbers and make sure they line up with the holes in the knife plate?

[@HeirloomBuilders]

It’s tough. We lay out the knife plate on top of the joint, Mark the centers of each hole, and then use a square to guide the drill bit straight in. We place the knife plate in its spot, start with the two opposite holes, bolting them after drilling, and then drill the ones in the middle so the plate can’t wiggle off center if we don’t get it just right. I hope that makes sense

[@NicTaylorWoodworking]

I’m curious about the strength difference between this and a traditional draw bored through tenon. Looks awesome!

[@HeirloomBuilders]

I’m curious about that too. I know the strength of that half inch steel is much greater than the wood members itself, and it would be interesting to see how the joinery performs under different directional forces

[@wickedmountainfilms]

@@HeirloomBuilders the national design standard is open source from American wood council. The knife plate connection strength is covered in one of the chapters, although it may take time to calculate strength as there are a number of factors; bolt strength, bolt bearing and edge distance, wood shear strength, additive bending forces translated to shear, etc. The same calcs can be made for a mortise and tenon joint; for the most part I think the tendon is the weak point, especially with sharpe angles.

[@kasonchase2121]

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[@kasonchase2121]

@Zakai Ishaan thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I really appreciate it!

[@zakaiishaan9916]

@Kason Chase glad I could help :D

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Crazy! Great stuff 😁

[@HeirloomBuilders]

The Honest Carpenter this thing is enormous! We’re definitely having fun. Come see us sometime!

[@minutemandefense3935]

Holy cow I would kill to work on a project like this....that is amazing.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

It really was an amazing project. Hopefully we’ll get a chance to build another one like it sometime soon!

[@robinsonfly1]

Nice work guys! Is there a video of the chainsaw plunge cut? You mentioned it took two cuts with the chainsaw and I wonder how you did it so accurately. Cheers

[@HeirloomBuilders]

We haven’t put together a video demonstrating that cut yet. We bolted a 8” wide x 24” long plywood guide to the chainsaw bar and then added a 1/4” piece of plywood to bring up the cut 1/4” for the second pass to make the plunge cut 1/2” total width (instead of just the 5/16” thickness of the chainsaw blade/kerf.

[@robinsonfly1]

@@HeirloomBuilders awesome thanks - please let me know when you get a chance to video that

[@TERRORoftheLORD]

How long does a 10x18 have to be in the kiln?? 2 months so that it doesn't crack? What are you drying it to? Anything under 20% is probably relative humidity where you are.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

TERRORoftheLORD good question! We actually couldn’t dry these with our solar kiln because they are 24 feet long and our kiln is only 14’. And we have a strict deadline for the wedding. These were dried in a conventional kiln for about 7 days.

[@beardedbowhunter6139]

@@HeirloomBuilders seems I read somewhere that some early American timber frame barns where built green. Have you had any experience with green timber construction?

[@HeirloomBuilders]

@@beardedbowhunter6139 you are right about that. Some folks still frame green. I don’t have any experience timber framing with green lumber though. A friend of mine built his house that way 20 years ago and woke up every night to what sounded like fireworks as the oak dried! I’d rather frame dry so the joinery doesn’t have to strain so hard

[@beardedbowhunter6139]

@@HeirloomBuilders thanks for the reply. I really want to build a barn like this for myself, for livestock. I have a sawmill but no kiln. I'm just trying to make up my mind how to proceed.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

@@beardedbowhunter6139Kiln drying costs about $1/bf. So building a solar kiln would quickly pay for itself. Check this out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qInMgH2AhtqVqq8

[@tillmansr2002]

Very good video. What types of companies do the engineering for these types of structures? I am interested with a project but can not find out where to start (or who to even call).

[@HeirloomBuilders]

Mike and I did the framing design and had a STRUCTURAL ENGINEER verify the beam sizes and steel connections. A structural engineer can do it all for you if you don’t have the prior knowledge of heavy timber framing design.

[@tillmansr2002]

@@HeirloomBuilders Do you have a reference for a structural engineer? I've hired two engineers and an Arch - both ignorant to what really needs to be accomplished.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

@@tillmansr2002 where are you located?

[@tillmansr2002]

@@HeirloomBuilders Saint petersburg, FL

[@HeirloomBuilders]

@@tillmansr2002 certainly. I work with a crew that has an engineer licensed in FL. Contact [e-mail]. Send your contact info and any plans you have so they can figure out next steps.

[@nickpersenaire4443]

Love it Thanks for sharing your outstanding content.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

Thanks for watching!

[@Potrvlb]

Very cool.

[@mariogatica2363]

Sooo...the metal piece, do the mortise and tenon rule ???

[@HeirloomBuilders]

Mario Gatica I think the steel knife plate connection is much stronger than traditional mortise and tenon joinery.

[@mariogatica2363]

@@HeirloomBuilders thank you for your answer.... Once i have a discution with a guy, or lets call it a different point of view on a dove tail joint used for floor or two level joist on a timber frame, i read it some where, i think it was in a web site called Timber Frame Guild, where different people there, mostly timber frame seniors saying that dove tail joint was not enough, and you must used a tusk tenon joint at least one in the midle of the spam, just to make sure, and be safe, as wood are not dry enough some times.....i let the guy know what i read, and he got kind of angry saying he was at the timber frame industry for like 15 or 20 years he said, and the dove tail joint was enough for all the joits, there it was engeniring prooved joint....well it was the end of the discution, as i have cero experience on the subjet, all i did was telling what i read. But people like you in the other hand, are looking for the extra strenght, and there is always a room for improoving

[@ShawnVanden]

Wedding Barn ... it's become a Thing! This Barn's the antithesis of "Wedding" ... Strong, Resilient, Lasts forever... !

[@mariogatica2363]

Did i heard good.?....80 pound piece of steel ??

[@HeirloomBuilders]

Yes sir! Most of the hardware was made with 1/2” steel plate.

[@mariogatica2363]

@@HeirloomBuilders man....that is prety heavy...thanks for your answer.

[@HeirloomBuilders]

@@mariogatica2363 hard to lift by yourself! most times, we had two people set them into place.

[@mariogatica2363]

@@HeirloomBuilders yes...is like lifting a small person