American Flyer 312 Maintenance and Upkeep

[@michaelkunkel6264]

Good job JF. Funny thing, I have four 312 K5 and two 322 engines with that same paint mark and restamp of the number on the cab. When i first encountered this I assumed that it was done by a previous owner, but now I do believe that was done at the factory by Gilbert.

[@vmipiper]

I find the paint stamp to be pretty reliable, versus the decals. But there are a few out there who can reliably remake the paint stamp, a skill I lack unfortunately. Keep 'em running!

[@traveler7353]

I have a 312 american flyer pennsylvania. Unsure it the thing works, the wiring looka shot. How much would new wiring cost?

[@weisse1952]

I need to replace the wick unit on my 312. How do i remove the body from the chassis and linkage? Thanks, Greg

[@vmipiper]

Gregory Look Hello! Thank you for your question. On the bottom of your locomotive are a series of screws usually 3-4 depending on the type. Completely remove the cow catcher assembly, then remove the front two screws that attach the body and the chassis (directly under the smoke box). This should free up the body to slide back and forth just enough to slide the body forward (or back, whichever works) and then lift off the body. Be careful not to force it, be firm but gentle when removing the die cast body. If it doesn’t slide freely back and forth, look for other obstructions or screws that you may have missed. Let me know if you have any problems.

[@weisse1952]

Thanks for replying. So the 4 screws on the drive linkage comes off that are attached to the body. As in the video.

[@vmipiper]

That’s correct.

[@galv49]

AF 302 needs service. Do you have a website w contact info etc

[@vmipiper]

Please email me at [e-mail] thank you!

[@galv49]

How does one contact you re repair work

[@vmipiper]

Hi Timothy, thank you for reaching out! Are you looking to send me your train or just advice?

[@johnnyjames7139]

The traction rings are unnecessary, especially on a die cast locomotive. They just dirty the track.

[@vmipiper]

Mostly agree with you there. Although there are a few versions that you absolutely cannot run the train without them.

[@michaelgmoore5708]

A new factory reissue wire harness for the rear and the same for the Choo Choo unit. Just like Gilbert originals are the only way. Rebuilding the drivers to original condition also. Naturally I don't like knuckle coupler conversions. I can run 16 car all link coupler train with my 312 SIT K5, and nothing comes uncoupled. Adjustment is everything. Most people have no idea how to do that. Link coupler pin has to be parallel with axles. Link coupler trains look real because of close coupling like the prototype cars were. Knuckle converted cars are too far apart and derail easily. They look totally unrealistic too. I changed all my converted cars back to link many years ago. I only had about 8 of them I bought cheap. I have about 40 link coupler cars and they are all great. I clean all that white stuff off with pure Mineral oil from grocery store. Mineral spirits are not the same thing. If I need a repair done by you, how would I get in touch.

[@charlesbeck1114]

I like your video's but they never show how to service or repair these locomotives. They are about what you have all ready done NOT how to actually Repair clean or restore. But thanks anyway.

[@johnferguson5971]

Poor audio recording.

[@vmipiper]

Hey John, thanks for your comment. If you had problems heading the video, feel free to reach out to me with specific questions! Thanks!