American Pacemaker Flood Coolant System Repairs Completed

[@garygraham6020]

I bought a pair of the handicut from sears when they first came out. Still using them. They are really handy!

[@richardhiskett5422]

When Curtis on Cutting Edge Engineering started using a spade drill he found the metric equivalent 1/4 inch air chuck restricted the flow to much. He had to up-sized his entire coolant system to 3/8" without a quick connect. He just jams the end of a flex nozzle into the coolant port on the drill. If you want to quick connects use hydraulic quick connects as they will probably flow better.

[@albertdubois1678]

Adam , Larger piping would give more flow, Thats why the original pipe was one inch. Good stuff

[@FullSpeed_only]

When I’m doing Things myself I try to go at least one Size up. For the Manufacturer the Price Difference mattered, but for your own Stuff it’s negligible. For normal Piping the Argument is that the Manufacturer sees the Cost of Pipe, but not the Electricity Bill for the Pump. (And you need a Filter if you use the Quick Connect. I’d always use one, but in some Cases the Line is so wide, that you get away without one.)

[@RobertGracie]

Always love your work on the American Pacemaker its a real workhorse of your tools Adam, giving it some much needed TLC is all part of caring for it!

[@billdunlop8683]

Great job Adam, From personal experience using those quick disconnects for liquid transfer they will reduce pressure just because of the design. I don't know what type or manufacturer they are but as an experiment to see if indeed you may need a new pump, remove the quick disconnects infeed line and test the pump pressure of the liquid with no restriction. You may be buying a bigger pump and because of the quick disconnect get no improved flow.

[@stephenbridges2791]

I've got some of those very Craftsman cutters. Had them 40+ years. They really are pretty decent.

[@89firebird]

There are Machinist and then there is Master machinist a-bomb you rock always have enjoyed watching your work

[@mattrich680]

Adam, your dedication to precision and doing the job right is inspiring. My hobbies have expanded exponentially as a result of your videos. I'm finally realizing what you are doing with the new shop - showing the best of what can be done in America today with the best of old and new. This is even more inspiring, and I salute you for enduring all the negative comments. That being said, what drew me to be a loyal subscriber was your ability to keep industry working in the current world - as a producer rather than consumer. (Ok, the music and your three generation photo an the end of each video didn't hurt.) Bring back the 9" shafts! America needs you to fix the stuff that can't be replaced.

[@Ervan-l9v]

The pump volume is OK. The restriction is in the fitting you used. Should have used 3/8 fittings. You used 1/4 it appears.

[@richardw.foxhall3392]

The original Pipe was a 1/2' NPT line. From your description and print !/4' NPT fittings will be grossly undersized and will not deliver the FLOW you need. Up size the lines, fittings , remember you want flow not pressure. Consider using heavy duty 3/4 Id garden hose and 3/4 in NPT to hose barb fittings. Brass of course. Also consider making the large block into a 4 way cross TEE but fed from the bottom for added options later. Ask me how I know. If you start big enough you can always choke it down later if needed. tough to go bigger without starting over. IT'S YOUR RE Do.

[@kevinhewitt1428]

Pump is likely large enough. Static pressure is your enemy. Too much resistance with small hose and fittings. Every fitting and bend adds to static pressure loss. Size up, reduce fittings and bends. I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, but they'd likely tell you the same.

[@tsmartin]

Not to mention the two 90 degree drilled holes and a quick coupler.

[@johnalexander4356]

All you need to do for a correct torque when using an offset wrench, such as a crowfoot. Or dog bone or your special adapter, is to mount it to your torque wrench at 90 degrees to the wrench. Not sticking out the front. Then the number on the wrench will be correct.

[@truckguy6666]

brilliant

[@MikeBaxterABC]

56:30 .. THE BEST tool for cutting hose made!! :) Love mine, I got it from Sears 35 years ago? And I got a set of 5 spare blades and apare "plastic "Anvil" ... I used one spare blade so far! :)

[@wh1zzzy]

The pore coolant flow appears to be from restriction. I would be putting 3/8” nipples and hose on for greater coolant flow as the pump was putting out more than enough coolant flow when tested in the sink.

[@ronkennedy213]

I would say that the pressure loss is from the small diameter of the hose, and the size of the hose fitting adapter rather than the size of the pump. Compare the hose to the size of the original coolant piping. Maybe a 1/2” hose and fittings will give you bigger volume

[@Cliff_Anderson]

I'd never seen a drill like that until I watched Keith Rucker destroy one to make a diamond sharpener last week, then you come along and show one on your channel just a couple days later...just really coincidental. I like the engineering on your system. Always enjoy your videos.

[@jameskilpatrick7790]

For fluid flow, always upsize from the smallest mandatory I.D., in this case, the pump outlet. Everything you attach should be larger than that, if possible. Not really an issue in this case, since it looks like you have sufficient coolant flow. Glad to see you get flood coolant running on the American. Yay!

[@hexinli]

Very smart of you to go for precision even when it isn't needed. It continues to sharpen your skills. I've been watching you for some six years now and you've always produced good content. Thank you!!

[@hexinli]

P.P.S.: Agreed on the Handi-Cut. I have two of them (the small and the large, which you have) and bought them at Sears when there were still Sears stores. I find them invaluable for cutting hose and tubing.

[@tates11]

A few points to consider: Spade drills need high pressure coolant to evacuate the chips, looking at the flow from the end of the drill reminded me of a 100 year old man. 👴. The pipe size on the lathe was a good indication of the pump displacement required waay back before high pressure tooling was reqularly used. Original mounting of the pump probably had the motor attached to the top plate with a shaft attached to a pump in the sump. This allowed for a much larger motor as it did not have to fit in the sump. I don't see the need for the QR or barbed fittings, using pushfit pneumatic fittings would work well. A ball valve with a straight push fit could easily attach a pipe to the drill. The drill can then have a simple push fit straight connector or elbow with a piece of pneumatic pipe permanently connected. The QR fittings were fitted the wrong way round. Pinning the toolpost through any of the 3 holes does not give a 4.5 degree increment, maybe if there were 2 holes. However there are 3 holes allowing a 3 degree increment. It will still always need indicating parallel to the axis by rotating the compound slide. Hopefully the compound can be clamped tight enough with the two small studs not to rotate when drilling. A simple method without any need to clamp the compound slide or pin the toolpost is to attach the tailstock to the carriage with a simple strap. The carriage then pulls the tailstock with the drill in it. On longer lathes the tailstock can be pushed by the carriage.

[@jimfiles3307]

Good job Adam. No flooding inside the building.

[@wprobe]

Going to a 3/8" line will help with the volume easy way to test just plumb at the pump and the last fitting for the ring and then check the flow.

[@josephcote6120]

Looks pretty good. If I may make one suggestion Anywhere an electrical wire passes over a metal edge you have the possibility for the metal to cut into the insulation. Where the power cord for the pump rubs on the edge of the hole is just such a place. Best and simplest cure is a nylon loop wire clamp right at the edge of the hole to keep the wire off the metal and to keep if from moving around.

[@joeburns1571]

I used a similar drill with the bit insert on a multi spindle bar machine in the 90's. They work well. Hope your job goes smoothly.

[@tates11]

For those learning machining. Always have the quill fully retracted when heavy milling, especially with large face mills at deep cuts.

[@DiaryOfACuemaker]

Yet another great video. Nice to see some constructive comments from people too!

[@dagalsevidxela1]

Just a heads up about that collet adapter you added to your torque wrench: that adjusted torque value only works if the adapter is in line with the wrench. If you have it kicked to one side or the other, it changes the effective length of the torque being applied which means you need a different value. To simplify things, just have the adapter at a 90° angle to the wrench and then you don’t have to apply any correction to what you set.

[@hasletjoe5984]

Thanks Adam, always a pleasure to watch a true craftsman apply his trade. Thanks for the time and effort to produce the videos!

[@dangodbout7818]

We had an American lathe where I worked. Our chip pan was designed the same as yours and it was never really a problem. I think it was designed to hold the chips and let the fluid go through the screens.

[@richardkelleher1711]

Little Giant makes great pumps. I have used a number of them for landscape water features and various fountains over the years. They run forever if you keep them clean.

[@FFGOMER17]

If you put the adapter 90 degrees to the wrench you don’t have to do any math or use the app, it will be the same TQ value as displayed on the wrench. As an Army Aviation mechanic we are taught how to do the calculation but in 25 years I may have only done it once or twice because of an access issue? Every other time I put the adapter at 90 degrees and let her eat. Great video as always, keep them coming!

[@minigpracing3068]

I should have read through the comments before posting, I said the same thing.

[@martinprecisiontools]

The challenge with the 90-degree technique is that you make a right-angle triangle, which means the leg of the triangle applying the force to the fastener is the hypotenuse. The hypotenuse will always be longer than the torque wrench. The length of the adaptor influences the length of the leg applying the force. That's why torque wrench manufacturers recommend calculating the force multiplier, reducing the torque by that number, and using the adaptor straight on. We did a quick video showing that the 90-degree technique does increase the force used. Hope that helps!

[@FFGOMER17]

@@martinprecisiontools Thank you for that information. I’ll have to check out your video. I guess now I have to walk out of my office and ground every helicopter on the flight line for incorrectly torqued fasteners. Looks likes it’s going to be a long weekend 🤦🏻‍♂️. **updated** I watched the video from Martin Precision. I’m not saying one way or the other which method is correct. However I will say this, the torque wrench in those videos needs to be calibrated. I saw more than a 5% spread in torque values. It may be fine for that application but for critical fasteners such as in aviation, that much deviation would never fly(pun intended). I guess that’s why our wrenches get calibrated so often 🤷🏻.

[@minigpracing3068]

@@martinprecisiontools I've personally tested using a crows foot wrench and an adapter holding a box wrench, two very different distances from the pivot. My results and the math behind it show "good enough" or within the repeat values of my torque wrench. sin of 90 degrees is 1 which is why this works and I'll continue doing this because for my needs it is definitely close enough. I can see where having a fairly long distance between fastener and torque wrench connection could lead to problems, but within reasonable lengths, I don't see an issue for practical purposes. Things like rocker cover on a Harley TwinCam installed in the frame of a touring machine, your access is so small that this is the only way forward. I use a Pro Motion adapter on my wrenches if anyone cares, slick little product. And yes I tested before using on anything of value because I didn't believe it could be "close enough", I proved to myself this was an OK procedure. And I since saw other tests proving this was close enough, one was with a high dollar Snap-On torque wrench calibration device, deviation from a straight torque wrench was around or less than 1% which was also what they were getting for different gripping on the reference wrench (if my memory is correct).

[@scorpion2005765]

You really need to put a bypass with a valve to tank so you are not deadheading that pump. I have seen many fail on water fountains from not having one.

[@Orgakoyd]

What is “dead heading” please? Is that a restricted flow? I know some pumps can be overloaded by a unrestricted flow, which is actually counter intuitive. But positive displacement pumps will be overloaded by a restricted flow. That’s my understanding.

[@SkylerinAmarillo]

@@Orgakoyd He means if you leave the pump turned on but the valve closed, the water has nowhere to go, and the pump will likely burn up and fail.

[@tnyleo]

A centrifugal pump can pump against a short period with out damage, excessive pumping against a closed valve will heat the fluid and can cause premature ware. That style of pump is definitely not a positive displacement.

[@SkylerinAmarillo]

@@tnyleo Exactly. It’s very likely that any operator is going to sooner than later forget the valve is off and run it too long.

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

Repost for the third time. Unless it is running it with no flow at all centrifugal pumps draw less power at low flow so you will not 'burn it out' The issue with no flow is you generate heat which more in non submersibles cooks plastic and seals in the housings. Submerged you would need to raise the Sump Temp and all that metal to 80-90C which won't be happening in a hurry.

[@larrycleeton]

Consider putting a 360 hose loop on the pump. That way you can pull the pump out of the sump without disconnecting it. It might pull the pump sideways but one zip tie will make is stable.

[@seanlancaster594]

I always love when Abom says "loose tolerances" and then procedes to be within nasa specs😂 ❤❤❤❤

[@walterplummer3808]

Grab a Christmas lights remote for the pump. You plug the remote in and the pump to the remote . Wireless keyfob on and off. Thanks for the videos.

[@afnDavid]

We just saw Rucker cut up one of those style drills.

[@salehsalem4031]

OMG, Adam, you are an artist. Great job.

[@willgallatin2802]

Sadly Booth the moment I saw a reducer in the ring to feed coolant to that drill I suspected that there was just not enough volume or head pressure to flood that drill correctly. Looking forward to seeing the first cut with it.

[@MikeBaxterABC]

This is going to look AWESOME :) .. some of the suggestions here are REALLY good too .. Some comments are shall we say ... not as helpful :) As far as a bypass valve or everyone worrying about the pump burning out. They obviously have not used a Little Giant coolant pump before, It is specifically designed for this application ... It shuts off automatically when pressure gets to a reasonable limit .. and is READY to run back on the moment you need coolant flow, Adam mentioned he is going to add a switch near the chuck area. This is because the vast majority of the tie he won't be using flood coolant. You don't need t be turning the pump on and off 30 times during the job .. just closing the coolant valve shuts it off.

[@Null_an_Void]

You need more head pressure and a bypass to stop the pump from burning out.

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

Unless it is running it with no flow at all centrifugal pumps draw less power at low flow so you will not 'burn it out' The issue with no flow is you generate heat which more in non submersibles cooks plastic and seals in the housings. Submerged you would need to raise the Sump Temp and all that metal to 80-90C which won't be happening in a hurry.

[@jklemin]

if u run the collet wrench at 90* to the head the torque number is what it says on the scale

[@transmitterguy478]

Adam, the hose ID is too small to give you the flow you are expecting. A hose and fittings with the ID of the pump output would provide a lot more flow. I think you will be fine and have enough coolant flow for your work on that lathe. Great job, I really enjoy your work.

[@francisschweitzer8431]

I was thinking the same thing… larger diameter. Looks like he will need to up size the pump to in order to overcome the total lift …. But for now it will work

[@assassinlexx1993]

That flow is like a 80 old man when you should have a 15 old kid flow. Of course you get spray everywhere.

[@halheavyduty]

Really good video mate. Watched the whole thing and found it really useful. I like your method for lining up the drill. Way better than the shonky setup I’ve been using. Time to invest in a coax indicator. Matt - Australia 🇦🇺

[@RayLautenschlager]

I recognized that as an Allied Machine and Engineering spade drill when you pulled it out. You should be alright with that coolant pressure even though the ideal would be higher. I sold Allied and I sold to Allied. Their small spade drill I helped develop when they were bring it out. They were throwing screws and I solved it with a $3.00 tap instead of what their engineers wanted to do which was buy $500K of special screws from Switzerland twice a year.

[@argee55]

Glad you got the coolant flowing again!

[@owenshaff1715]

I noticed that when you used the torque wrench the collet wrench was close to straight out. That will increase the leverage and tighten it past the desired torque spec. Need to run it at 90 degrees to the wrench itself. Anything above or below will influence the torque.

[@amd4life89]

Came to the comments to make sure someone else noticed!

[@ArcAiN6]

A few things i personally would have done differently. 1) I would have made the distribution block on the cross-slide be two port (1 in 2 out) and plumbed two male to female ball valves to it. 2) Following with 1, Instead of fitting a nipple directly to the ball valves, you can now fit a quick-connect to each of them, and utilize the valves to switch between them. This has the added bonus of being able to swap out any other coolant attachments you need, without having to disassemble anything with the delivery system. 3) I would have replaced the original pipe that has been plumbed in, and utilized it, a bit more effort, but a longer lasting fix. As for the bend in the chip pan, you can either use it as is, or cut off a thin wedge from either end, bend it back into position and weld it, this will raise the pan on that side enough to not have to worry. Welding a few tags to the pan to serve as feet should prevent the bend from reoccurring.

[@generessler6282]

There is friction loss as others are saying, but a big factor is that there's 5 feet or so of head for that little impeller pump to overcome even without friction. If the sump were nearer the cutter height, you'd see much more flow. A pump with a higher outlet pressure - like the original - will get you what you want.

[@angelramos-2005]

Cooling system installed so far,Adam.Looking forward to see how it works.Thank you.

[@millwrightrick1]

When using a 1/4 NPT hose fitting, a good idea is to get them with a barb for 3/8 hose. Otherwise there is a restriction in your line. I have come across this so many times as a millwright trying to figure out why air tools are too slow and not enough coolant flows from a pump. 1/4 " means different things when talking about pipe and hose or tubing.

[@truckguy6666]

Agree completely. Have two hose reels in my shop. One is 3/8 hose, the other is 1/4, and the difference in flow on a small system with about 135psi is astonishing! Legit night and day difference

[@dennythomas8887]

High demand air tools like die grinders and impact wrenches that require 90 psi @ 10 cfm flow need 3/8 ID hose as a minimum. This (coolant) application shouldn't be any different. A 1/2 inch ID hose would work even better if the pump could keep up.

[@Gwalbs]

Surely its easier to have the female quick disconnect off of the ball valve to be able to change between uses instead of having to take fittings in and out? Then any other coolant mods can just have the same male quick connect and be swapped in seconds

[@jasonmcnair7561]

Hey Adam, the small internal diameter of your barb fittings is restricting the flow of your coolant.

[@spoke4915]

Buy a110v remomot control switch so you dont have to keep plugging it in. They sell them for woodworking dust collection.

[@tomjewett5839]

I can't believe it. Keith Rucker over at vintage machinery just took one of those drill bits and cut it up so he could use it to hold the diamond tip so he could clean up his grinder on his new old drill sharpener. I left a comment that he was going to need it next week. Lol and here you are using one this week

[@jamesdavis8021]

Yeah. I saw that too.😢

[@josvandiepen3425]

Great job Adam buth maybe its a good idea to foresee a little bypass on the pump so it doesn't run against a closed valve.

[@wtcanal269]

looks very cool! I think you will work and enjoy this system twice as much, since you made it yourself, besides, I noted that the pumps are not audible at all, and this is great during long-term work.

[@hermannstraub3743]

And Keith Rucker just yesterday did cut a very similar spade drill into pieces for his grindwheeldresser.

[@garybrenner6236]

Worse yet, he did not even know it was called a spade drill!

[@9fa4108f]

I really enjoyed this more hands on video and getting something finished 👍

[@natwooding9394]

Someone else may have suggested this but could you drill and tap a hole in the bottom end of the chip pan and make a drain back to the pump sump? It would, of course, need some sort of screen.

[@jonbutcher5593]

Mighty big drill 👍 Awesome work as usual!

[@Polar_Ted]

Good to know you can still get the Handy cut blades.. I bought my pair new a long long time ago.

[@tonyurquhart8278]

Hey Adam great little project. Thanks. Wondered if you considered fitting the female quick connect directly on the ball valve & have the permanent hose fitted to the adapter ring with the male quick connect on the end of the rubber hose, That way you can easily remove the drill coolant feed at the ball valve. You could then easily make a “normal” coolant feed by having a magnetic base & mount with a Coolant Flex Pipe attached to clamp onto the cross slide/carriage, where ever suits. Put a rubber hose onto this with a male quick connect to plug back into the female quick connect at the ball valve. That way you can have any number of coolant arrangements with no need for “disassembly” in between. Just connect & go…

[@JJ-sx6di]

Seen you and the misses a few months back in pjs at the pig ! Ya look to be in a hurry so I didn’t wanna bother ya ! Great vids

[@MikeBaxterABC]

59:34 .. Usually we put the FEMALE quick connect on the pressure side ... so it doesn't spray anymore when you disconnect it :) ... BUT .. (I didn't watch to the end yet), maybe Adam has use for the open end to flood different parts with coolant "manually" with just the hose ...

[@kevinwayne7546]

just upsize your hose. that's the limiting factor Not the Pump.

[@williambaxter7689]

Hay Adam thanks for the great content, just a suggestion to control your pump, use a remote- control power outlet like the ones that are used for Christmas lights you can find them easy at Home Depot and Lowes this time of year, then you can turn it off and on without unplugging it.

[@guygfm4243]

Still got it Adam thanks for sharing

[@minigpracing3068]

If you use that collet wrench adapter at 90 degrees to the wrench, you don't need any funny conversions, just torque to the regular value.

[@francisschweitzer8431]

Hope you two had an awesome cruise

[@yanwo2359]

I was quite surprised you were able to resist milling all six sides of the blocks!

[@joeramirez1872]

Put a couple of legs on the chip pan , to hold it up so the coolant will flow toward the pans.

[@PaniMuellerova]

Adam, if the position of a yellow valve handle is inconvenient for you, you may just unscrew the self-locking nut on a valve axle and rotate the hadle by 180 deg., so it would be working in another square of a circle, thus out of the way of the tailstock handle. Best regards to you from the Bison homeland. :)

[@robertstout4764]

You probably should have put the quick disconnect on the output of the ball valve instead of the input to the drill bit. that way you could leave the quick disconnect and hose connected to the slip ring and just get another quick disconnect connector and hose to go to a coolant sprayer.. Then you can change between the two spray systems by swapping at the disconnect instead of removing the hose

[@mariocortes1337]

Very educational video, thanks abom 79

[@firesurfer]

I have had that same ratchet tap for many years. It's actually my favorite one. US general makes some nice relatively inexpensive tools. I would use anti-seize instead of tape. Especially on stainless. I'm not feeling that rigid pipe to the pump. I think SS braided hose would be better because of the vibration from the pump. It needs to be located somehow. Maybe a strap bracket. General also makes a really nice standard 25' foot tape. I have dropped it dozens of times and it never fails. As everybody else said, up sizing the lines would help tremendously.

[@larry3064]

I've had a large and small US General ratchet tap set I've used for around 15 years. Still going strong.

[@roycarlsen3335]

I'd recommend using Igus track for your hose. You could run a wire to a switch for the pump in the Igus track also to make turn8ng the pump on/off less awkward.

[@bobvines00]

Adam, you might want to consider adding a second quick-connect/disconnect on the headstock side of your coolant valve. That way you won't have to use a wrench to change from the existing hose-barb fitting to the other fitting that you mentioned.

[@larrylong6268]

I worked in polypropylene plant using process pressure of 80,000 PSI we had similar block fittings for change of direction.

[@Ninoy2059]

Job well done.

[@paulwoolner9047]

Why is there a slip ring on a static tool? Can it be used in the mill.

[@tumbleddry2887]

Was thinking you could feed your new hose through the old metal coolant pipe

[@martineastburn3679]

Flex is always needed as the lathe functions. If all hard there is trouble. I'd turn on both. The back pressure in the pump might be limiting.

[@Ervan-l9v]

Male and female fittings should be reversed at the drill sleeve. female on the hose and male on the sleeve.

[@M5888-z3w]

Your set up is done nicely and I’ve had lots of experience with spade drills only thing I didn’t like about them is you have to go slow and if you are working pc work like I was it can get on your nerves I enjoyed watching this video you do excellent work

[@midwestkustomz6350]

Good job bud!

[@awake.collective]

I think it will work fantastic

[@1320pass]

That's a helluva drill.

[@thepotterer3726]

When you compare the way the pump worked when you tested it in the sink, to the amount of coolant at the drill, I would say all your fittings (most especially the flexible pipe) are undersized. There is a lot of friction to overcome there.........

[@ronwhite6719]

I agree. You can only get so much flow from 1/4" hose and fittings. There's a reason why the original pipe on the machine was 1/2" pipe.

[@robertginther9248]

You put small hose & small fittings (6) in the system. They're like limiting orifices. Bigger hose, fitiings & quick coupler will bring more volume. Pump in sink of water 7& close off nipple with your finger & you can squirt fluid ten feet. Fire men don't use garden hoses, they use big ones. If you want 45 psi get a bronze gear pump.

[@Gimblevalve]

Where's the painted US longtail vise?

[@billrotundo7814]

Thanks Adam...

[@duceanahalf]

regarding the water having to fill up part of the chip pan before hitting the drain. you could level out the low part of the pan with some epoxy or similar so it drains better and have less standing water

[@stanvess1848]

Adam if it was mee doin I would put the quick connect on the valve that way ya won't have ta take the barb off the valve and have the hose on the slip ring just sayin

[@easyian01]

Hey Adam, what about adding a drain from the low point t on the chip pan to the weep hole on the sump so you don't have standing coolant.

[@ronnydowdy7432]

I think you will have more coolant than you'll need. Just need to try it out.

[@kevinbanham4900]

Great stuff but that 12 inch nipple will need support every time you turn the ball valve on and off it will with time snap the nipple

[@douglasgood1103]

Could you put a hole in the drip pan and drain into the over flow hole in the sump ?

[@RobBulmahn]

Does it still count as a manifold if there is only a single inlet and outlet, or is it just a really beefy coupling?

[@truckguy6666]

🤔

[@mkegadgets4380]

I wouldn’t run a cord and switch all the way to the headstock. Coolant and electricity don’t mix. You could get a remote control Christmas tree light switch for under $20 at your big box store and just have the remote control up at the head stock. The two cap screws on the carriage I would Connor sink, just so it’s not a knuckle buster and it stops chips from getting caught on them. Great video look forward to your next.

[@miken3260]

I would put another quick connect at the valve so you don’t have to unscrew it if you need to reconfigure your hoses.

[@e.d.s.inc.shandon9133]

Could it be that the angle of the pan is designed to keep chips away from the filters?