Ammonia & Aquaponics Systems

Even the most experienced Aquaponic growers run into issues with Ammonia at some point in their farming/gardening journey. (zipgrow.com/understanding-amm.... In this video, Dr. Nate Storey gives you a quick overview of how and why you should be tracking ammonia, ammonium, nitrates and nitrites in your system! Remember to ask other questions in the comments.
Nate is the Co-Founder of Bright Agrotech, a leader in vertical, space saving aquaponics and hydroponics systems and a commercial producer in the high plains of Laramie, WY. With this innovative technology, Nate and the Bright Agrotech team feed dozens of restaurants, over 50 people in a CSA program and supply for a local grocer.
----------------------------------------------
Connect with us:
Website: zipgrow.com
Facebook: / zipgrowtm
LinkedIn: / zipgrow-inc
Twitter: / zipgrowinc
Instagram: / zipgrowinc

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hi Jaden, nitrification is happening within 6 weeks typically, but for systems to hit full stride with nutrient availability, and a balanced overall ecology (not just nitrifying bacteria), it's usually at least 6 mo.s. These systems are like wine, they get better with age, typically due to diversifying ecology and nutrient accumulation. Regarding water changes- that's news to me. I've been running the same water for 8 years now. :)

[@palapagrant573]

Another great video Nate! And thanks for your time and the tour last week!

[@TonyWadkins]

You are one heck of a teacher! Very clear chemistry instruction. Thanks for the education!

[@EdwardBoutros]

Just an amazing and super informative video. Spot on. Thanks for taking the time to record/post this.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks! We will keep these coming. We'll be shooting one on Iron in the next week or so.

[@larryhagerty3684]

This is part of what hooked me on aquaponics you and the rest of the community giving good information to help peple get started. I will start cycling my system tomarrow. I owe it all to you and the rest of the people who have given much of themselves and then give it back to the people Thankyou

[@DrSeminoleitall]

Dude, that was a great video. Thanks for explaining that like a human. You got me as a fan!

[@jamieholland8951]

I've seen a few of your videos now and with each one I am more impressed. This is such a cool topic to learn about.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Glad to hear you found this helpful!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Great to hear, Chippy. Sounds like you're on the right track with doing your homework first. Having a well-designed system from the start is MUCH easier in the long run.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Happy to help, John!

[@ZipGrowInc]

You're welcome, Brin! Glad it was easy enough to understand - Ammonia can be a rather confusing subject in aquaponics. Best of luck!

[@jeffstreeter3037]

Thank you for keeping the explanation simple.

[@pitufo7240]

DR NATE! YOU ARE A SUPERHERO!!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thank you Tony. We do our best.

[@ReisFamilyWebsite]

This was a fantastic video. Thank you very much. I feel like it is really important for us to know the science behind what we are doing with our systems. I hope you make more videos like this. I have subscribed and will be looking through more of your videos. Well done!

[@quinnthompsontv]

Just started adding more fish - a few at a time, and have upped the feeding to twice a day. Thanks for the help!!!

[@chippys9223]

Awesome! I've been researching and thinking about aquaponics for a while now. I've decided on the design for my first system (3 IBCs) and now starting to think about water quality, etc. etc.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Happy to help!

[@midwestperspective926]

Thanks, I will try that. I really enjoy your videos and expertise. You have been a excellent resource!

[@ZipGrowInc]

You're welcome, Steven. Glad you found it helpful - They'll be more where this came from soon!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks again, Jamie!

[@smilner10]

Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks for dumbing it down! Keep it up..

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks for subscribing, Reis Family! We're committed to continuing to create and publish this type content for our loyal, passionate KZbin subscribers. Thanks for the great feedback and stay in touch!

[@jamesmartinez1980]

I understood all of that. You explain things very well. Thanks

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks, James! We're glad that you're getting something out of these videos. Let us know if there are other parts of AP you are wanting help with.

[@gayanjayalath4210]

Excellent explanation.. Thank you very much

[@rockyofusa1]

I was so confused but you made it clear and simple the only thing is your answer Given to Don used terms RO and carbonates introduction in the beginning I will search in your channel for just why these are thanks!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks, Tony!

[@fastbajozero]

great info. keep it up i found you just as i was getting worried about my system dropping to 6.4 after a year and a half.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hey Ryan. Thanks for your nice feedback! Yes, circulation is always a little limited with square tanks with rounded corners. However, the space efficiency with square tanks far outweigh the decreased circulation. It's a slight trade off, but one we would definitely make. Geothermal works well! We use it sparingly, but if there is an emergency, it's super nice to have on hand!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Good to hear!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Sure, we can do a video on that. I'll throw it on the shoot calendar right now. Thanks!

[@kevinbrennan-menard9305]

The ammonia ammonium video was the most informational video I have ever seen, thank you. I discovered the problem already, the hard way but to understand the chemistry after is still awesome.

[@ZipGrowInc]

I'm glad we can be helpful Kevin!

[@celestinenwachukwu3440]

hi guys, the greatest results that I have had was by following the Keiths Ponics Site (i found it on google) definately the no.1 info that I've tried.

[@heeradevipatangay7023]

Very good info on Ammonia, ammonium and conversion to Nitrate

[@ZipGrowInc]

Glad it was helpful Heeradevi!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks, Marcos!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hey Rich, we run our system 24/7, but you don't have to! You can run it on a timed cycle if you want. Filling and draining every 6 minutes is not too fast, but you could slow it down if you want to save a little more money by using a timer (again, not required!).

[@4strength]

Great video. Thank you.

[@marcosaltomani6528]

very good explanation!

[@Zeknix]

Keep these videos coming. I have never seen informative videos such as these. Please get into the science part of AP. I like it when I know why its a good idea to have a lower pH, not because someone that's been doing AP for a long time says its so.

[@tommacabulostoledo]

Thanks! Your videos are really helpful. Godspeed!

[@LAUGHING-MAN38]

Really clean cut, good information! Thanks alot, helped a ton!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Great to hear, ***** ! Happy to help.

[@Bigelowbrook]

good details Nate.

[@exeseven]

So much great information, thanks for these videos! I've learned a lot from you in my first year of Aquaponics so far.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Great to hear it, exeseven - Are you already part of our email community too? #aquaponics

[@exeseven]

Bright Agrotech Yes I am. Just watched this video again today, and was reminded that my 120ppm of Nitrates is not bad. PH is steady at 6.3, Ammonia at 1ppm. The plants and fish are super healthy.

[@rustyknightjustme]

Thanks Doc!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Those are awesome numbers! Your system is fully cycled at this point. You can start adding fish, and definitely get some plants in there!

[@buddyt6forever]

Wow very knowledgeable. Thanks

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks Edward- We're doing our best to put good content out there. Subscribe if you like it!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks Larry. Glad we could help you out. Let us know if you have other questions or topics you would like addressed.

[@ZipGrowInc]

You're welcome - thanks for the feedback and feel free to suggest other topics!

[@yuliamadjid]

thankyou sooo much ...it's very clear..

[@Mike4spirit]

hats off great info friend

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hey Don, check out our other video on raising pH levels. In a mature system, remember your pH will always drop due to nitrification, unless you're introducing carbonates. If you install an RO filter from the start, controlling pH becomes an easier task.

[@ZipGrowInc]

We recommend that everyone monitor ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature daily in their systems (at least until the system is mature). Once it's mature it becomes very stable and predictable. These days we check these system variables only once or twice a week, if that (with the exception of temperature).

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hi Sean, We'll be trying to do a video on all of the plant nutrients over the coming months and how to manage them best.

[@ZipGrowInc]

You're welcome, Steven!

[@usndvr79]

Thanks Nate

[@Raceberts]

great stuff...........God bless ya Dr

[@ZipGrowInc]

+Robert Fredericks Mensah Happy to help!

[@ASkippingRock]

Thanks!

[@ryanjones2981]

Well done Nate! Always excited to get the notification in my email telling me that Bright Agrotech has a new video out. I received my 5' media inserts in the mail very quickly and am very pleased with Chris' customer service when I had questions. You guys rock! Do you find that you lose any genuinely measurable efficiency moving detritus on the tank bottom because you are using square tanks as opposed to round tanks? Also curious, how well does your geothermal air recirc system work?

[@Fuckislam76]

I was going to say the same thing!! Even for someone who knows little to nothing about chemistry I understood very well

[@ZipGrowInc]

Glad we could help Marcos.

[@mboa73]

Very informative

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hi, You can usually run the nitrates up to around 160 ppm before your fish start to notice. I would recommend shooting for a range between 20 and 80 ppm. Much higher and your aphids will get out of control. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic. Nitrite is deadly.

[@ZipGrowInc]

It usually takes around a year to get the microbial communities established to the point where they're stable and efficient- once they reach this point and nitrification is stable (assuming there isn't carbonates built up in the system) your pH will start to drop in response to efficient nitrification, giving you complete control over what pH range you run your system at. Check out our stocking density video to see how many fish to stock/gal.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hi Robert, The reality is much more complicated than that. The reality is that there are tons of different nitrifiers that operate optimally at different pH ranges, and bacterial biomass can offset reductions in efficiency. At the end of the day, each system has it's own nitrifier composition that is adapted to the variables in that system. The biggest thing is to keep the system stable. I'll do a Vertical food blog post on low pH nitrification soon.

[@Peebukas1]

Hi Bright Agrotech I wanted to give you a two-thumbs up on extremely well done job on your project and free education you provide with your videos! After devouring all of your videos I am now wondering on how, what and how often do you measure in your system? Best regards from Estonia (EU).

[@mef1975]

This was really good. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I wonder, how high might one run the nitrate? Can't nitrate also come in toxic and nontoxic form? Do you speak on that in a different video? I suspect what level one strives for depends on the fish, plants, and pump ebb/flow cycles?

[@texasspinesurgeon]

I am a medical doctor and have a degree in chemistry. You are an excellent professor ;)

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks for the nice feedback, Irvin! You're too kind.

[@barfarm051]

Very informative. Thank you so much. Just what I need to fix thigs in my new aquaponics system. I only have 4 fishes in my system with about150 net pots. Am I supplying enough food for my plants?

[@ciceroaraujo5183]

Great video

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks Cicero Araujo

[@ZipGrowInc]

Well, you can stock at higher densities, but you're typically threatening your system stability. There are lots of variables to consider before increasing densities. More nitrate can be good, or bad, depending on the situation. It takes many more nutrients to grow a plant!

[@MrSamsuu]

Great information man

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks Hanoch samuel

[@Johnnychi123]

thanks

[@ChrisWarWalker]

looking forward to the documents.i think the most important things that gets overlooked by most beginners is mechanical and bio-filtration.

[@MrGurushit]

Great info

[@ZipGrowInc]

Awesome to hear that! Glad it was helpful. Hope you're subscribed!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hi Ken, If you have a lot of aluminum in your system, and your run your pH really low (by aquaponic standards) then you should worry. By and large though, we don't have much if any aluminum in the system, and our pH doesn't usually drop beyond 6.0, which is still above the range where most Al toxicities occur (most Al toxicities occur below pH 5.0 or so. . .).

[@ZipGrowInc]

You can have high nitrification rates at low pH if you give your microbial communities time to adapt, have lots of system BSA, and keep your water chemistry relatively stable.

[@tonythewest]

Chemistry is so cool.

[@ZipGrowInc]

We try to keep our pH between 6-6.4. If you have a mature system, it will always be falling. You'll want to develop a system where it falls to 6 and you raise it to 6.4 and then it falls to 6 again and you raise it to 6.4 (and the cycle continues...) Hope that helps!

[@audiumboh]

Hello Dr. Nate, Greetings from Indonesia! Thank you for all your videos, all of them are informative and useful. Anyway, just want to give a quick question regarding Ammonia/Ammonium, Since ammonia is clearly poisonus both for plants and fish, would you please share with us, what is the maximum ppm of Ammonia which the plants / fish can tolerate? Again! Thank you so much for your time and attention Warm Regards, Audi P.

[@prashanthpoojari]

Very informative video. How about the trend of ammonium and ammonia with respective to temperature for a given pH level? Is there any effect?

[@ZipGrowInc]

The best way to lower pH is to increase nitrification and feeding rates. But, if your water is coming out at pH 8-8.2 and only working down to mid 7's over time, then you might look at installing an RO filter. They can be fairly inexpensive (typically costing a couple hundred dollars for a small to midsize system) and they're definitely a good investment on the front end rather than struggling and fighting pH over the long run.

[@ZipGrowInc]

I recommend between 1ppm and 2ppm for the establishment period. Try not too exceed it too much or things can occasionally slow down.

[@Tadzmobetta]

Hello, Tad here! I live in Evanston, Wyoming and can't wait to tour your facility!! Question?? When first starting a small indoor hobby system (100 gal. fish tank & three 23 gal. grow beds; two 20 gal sumps) what should I begin with first? Fish or Plants and media? Also, what chemical numbers should be achieved before completing the system? Thanks! Love the videos!!!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Hey Tom, there is a ratio to fish to biological surface area. There is basically a maximum number of plants that a certain amount of protein introduced to the system can support. Your fish ratios should be around 1# per 8-10 gallons. Your biofiltration (for most medias) should be around 1-to-1 tank volume to grow bed volume. The Number of plants you can fit into the grow bed will really depend on how much feed you feed to the fish. Thanks for the question - It can get a little complicated!

[@gabisandu]

Great videos, simple to understand. Congratulation. I have a question, maybe silly one. I have a lake, big one (51 ha) with common carps in. I want to make there a hydroponic system. I can use the water directly from lake to fertilize my plants or is not a good ideea? Thanks again for share with us all of things.

[@DonQuichotteLiberia]

Awesome video. Is there a way to easily measure Ammonia and Ammonium content in your water on-line and in an automated fashion?

[@bradsimpson8724]

Easiest way to go would be an aquarium test kit.

[@dmfitchett]

awesome awesome awesome Sir GREAT JOB

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks David Fitchett - Good to know you found it useful!

[@chewilockhart538]

Dude! Total rockstar teacher!

[@ZipGrowInc]

Thanks, Chewi Lockhart!

[@chewilockhart538]

Question about the bacteria...I know that they need surface space (grow medium or filter) but can they process the ammonia submerged under water or does there need to be an ebb and flow, allowing open air to the bacteria?

[@Preator497]

amazingly concise video, I've been researching water quality parameters of aquaponic systems for a few months and hadn't heard about shifting the water pH over time without losing nitrification efficiency. I for sure will dig a bit deeper but would love to implement this in the new system im building. Thanks! If possible, would anyone be able to share some of the literature confirming this effect?

[@ADUAquascaping]

It's not entirely true with heavy plant growth and lower carbonate levels your nitrification does go down, but it doesn't really matter because the plants are sucking in the majority of the ammonium. This is only a concern at the beginning of the nitrogen cycle if you are doing a fishless and plantless cycle. It will still work, but a biological bed at 8.6pH and 300+ppm is going to work a lot better, as in being millions of time larger, than a bed at 6.8pH 80ppm. As well it isn't really about pH levels anyhow it is about the temporary hardness levels, (carbonate hardness) That is what determines the outcome and is what you should be monitoring. pH will swing throughout the day it doesn't mean your buffer is degrading.

[@charlessublette9491]

ADU Aquascaping Hmmm. ADU, you need to get outside of your dim lighted aquarium room to read the aquaculture industry literature so you can realize how wrong you are.

[@travelcompass591]

Thank you :-)

[@ZipGrowInc]

+AdolfoE Aguirre Happy to help!

[@NoKnockaKnee]

Excellent explanation as always, doc. Question: I live near the coast and I can easily catch finger mullet all day long. Do you see any issues with feeding a saltwater species (dried chum) to Tilapia? Thanks!

[@ZipGrowInc]

You shouldn't have too many issues as long as you're conscious of your salinity levels!

[@tommacabulostoledo]

very informative! is there a recommended ratio between the plants vs the fish grown to attain this balanced PH systems? Am I right to assume that a system is better and safer to have more plants than fish being grown to increase nitrification? thank you very much!

[@Zeknix]

Are you going to do an episode on the different macro/micro nutrient and how too much of some nutrients inhibit the uptake of other nutrients? I know you hit on this topic a little when you were talking about how you bring up the pH in your system.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Try our contact page on our website.

[@Kgorham09]

Thank you for explaining this.

[@ZipGrowInc]

Well, if your tapwater isn't too basic, you can use it, or if you have a healthy system with lots of nitrification, basic tapwater usually isn't a problem. If you're just getting started, and can afford it, look into an RO filter. It will help you get started on the right foot as far as your water goes!

[@phsalomao1986]

Hello! thx for the info! I just like to understand one thing about the period of time while the systems are getting mature.. If I maintain the pH around 7-7,2 during the first 2 or 3 months and then gradually reduce it to lower pH`s around 6. Does it will be beneficial for the nitrification process or/and the bacterial colonies? Can you elucidate that?

[@Foothills_Flipper]

Hi Nate, I was wondering if I could use the fish and water from my garden pond to start my aquaponic tank? My pond is about 7yrs old and had most of the fish about as long.