Amtrak Empire Builder | Taking a Train Through Glacier National Park

Welcome back to our Empire Builder trip report! Last week, we boarded this epic train in Portland, Oregon. Today, we wake up in Montana, just east of the border with Idaho. Our first night in our coach seat was good, and today our eyes will be in for a treat. The Empire Builder travels straight through Glacier National Park! Come along with Thom and Bear and enjoy views of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains.
Then, suddenly, the mountains abruptly end. We continue to cruise through endless Montana plains. Though our train had accumulated a delay, there were still plenty of opportunities to step outside and take a breath of Montana air. Since this video was recorded in early March, it was still very cold on the prairie!
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Chapters
0:00 Introduction
0:57 Waking up in the Flathead Tunnel
1:18 Baby it's cold outside
1:47 The Flathead River
2:53 Whitefish, MT
3:40 The Cafe Car
4:05 Entering Glacier National Park
5:13 Essex, MT & the Izaak Walton Inn
6:00 Crossing the Continental Divide
8:54 East Glacier & Browning, MT
9:42 Plain views...
10:15 Cut Bank, MT
10:46 Shelby, MT
11:52 Passing the 2021 Derailment Site
12:23 Passing the Westbound Empire Builder
12:58 Havre, MT
14:54 Malta & Glasgow, MT
15:26 Toilet Review
16:53 Complete Darkness
18:28 Minot, ND
20:13 Next time...

[@mariegarside8830]

Before COVID, there was a program called "rails to trails" where volunteers from the National Park Service ride in the observation car giving informative talks. I have enjoyed talks on native birds and rock formations. I hope that program returns to Amtrak soon

[@Kim-mz8co]

It's a beautiful ride. I did this trip once in 2001. I remember the cost of coach was $56 and the delicious meals sharing a table in the dining car with other passengers were less than $10 a meal. Loved that trip. Thanks for your video! I didn't even mind the jokes.

[@Thom-TRA]

I hope to one day try the dining car. I’ve heard such raving reviews! Glad I could bring back some memories :)

[@caringjan4440]

Hi, the First Nation tribe is Blackfeet. We are starting in Shelby,Mt and going to Seattle overnight on a sleeper car and then going on the train to Vancouver for a few days. Thx for the info.

[@benedmonson3445]

Very good video. We will be on coach for City of New Orleans Memphis to Chicago before boarding Empire Builder to Whitefish. Return trip in reverse to Memphis again coach overnight both ways. The roomettes on Empire Builder will be great. Hoping weather in 10/22 will be good.

[@danielueblacker9118]

Thom always good to see you, the wonderful wife when she is riding, good to see Bear but he seemed quite today.

[@BrianNeal]

Hey Thom, really enjoyed this video! I appreciate you giving a tour of the train. That answers some questions for me, as Ive been wanting to do a train trip sometime! I thought it was cool, even though you didnt mention it, but you passed an old BNSF Santa Fe War Bonnet! I said the same thing about seeing all those BNSF at their yard! I have a friend who used to live in Minot, so that was cool that you were there! Cant wait to see the rest!

[@joemeyers3127]

Excellent video. Even with the fog the scenery is beautiful. Adding the Empire Builder to my bucket list. Looking forward to the final chapter.

[@dexteralexander2437]

Spectacular camera work, Thom, plus great editing, and useful and informative narration. Thanks for posting these segments. We’ll board Train #7 in Chicago Sunday, bound for Seattle and your videos have increased our anticipation and excitement.

[@Thom-TRA]

I’m sure you will love your journey! What a great way to spend a summer vacation!

[@jerrycarnley7673]

Thanks for a great video!

[@gregorygehin3547]

Now that the Lincoln Service trains can finally go up to 110 mph in Illinois, it is now time to increase the speeds on other routes. These wide open areas would make good speedways to get the trains through the flat boring stretches. The Texas Eagle is now the first superliner train to go 100 mph, which is the maximum for the superliner equipment.

[@ck4426]

Really enjoyed this and all of your videos!!!! Thank you for all of the adventures you share and have shared with us!!!

[@Thom-TRA]

You’re welcome! So glad you enjoyed. There’s much more to come!

[@ChrisH-1952]

Another great installment and so interesting to see a view for real of a section of track I first encountered on MS TrainSim many years back. I was also intrigued to see the word 'Railway' on the steam loco and workshops in Havre. I always assume that 'railroad' was always the preferred term in the USA. Looking forward to the final episode. 😃

[@stephenkeever6029]

Great scenery and pacing of the editing!

[@lopoa126]

MT and the Dakotas are so boring to travel through. Just flat corn and wheat fields. Stayed in a train car "camp ground" along the way. Glacier Park is always beautiful to see. First time seeing it from the train.

[@PixSmith01]

Great video, and all the historic info is terrific! Nice job, guys, and keep at it.

[@Thom-TRA]

Thanks so much!

[@skywardguy9081]

LOVE this vid!!

[@Thom-TRA]

I’m so glad!

[@midmichiganemdrailfan.4187]

Cool video

[@MDTASHA0926]

It’s awesome you can do this with your brother. I feel like I am with you and appreciate your candor.

[@Thom-TRA]

Love my bro. Also glad it feels like you’re along for the journey, that’s the goal!

[@pinchy08]

It sure is too bad you Empire Builder train didn’t have an alc 42 charger. Well there isn’t quite a lot of them in service yet. So for now there a rare site. Even though they are slated as a replacement for Amtraks Genesis series, I’m glad we still have plenty of time to enjoy the Genesis series of P40,P42, and P32 before there retirement. They’ve been the most beautiful and fastest passenger diesel locomotives I’ve seen after the F40PH.

[@briangasser973]

Hi Thom and Bear. I enjoyed the video and your work editing it.

[@Thom-TRA]

Thank you!

[@maxbuskirk5302]

Good narration and footage!

[@chadi7173]

We went through GNP back in May (twice) still some dirty snow on the ground, but heaps in the peaks. I’d love to go back and spend some time there… and with the Empire Builder, it’s pretty easy to do! I do wish the DNR had joined us in that section. They did the morning we went through the Cascades heading into Seattle, and it was really nice having the history of the area.

[@CameronLandels]

Thank you for the great video Thom. I really enjoyed seeing the contrast in landscapes! It looks a lovely way to relax and enjoy the views. Looking forward to part 3. We have a village in Scotland called California. I had a good trip yesterday with my friend. Nice to travel at 125mph :-)

[@Thom-TRA]

How unusual, that village in Scotland! There’s a village in the Netherlands called Amerika. Glad you enjoyed your trip!

[@rickyboy1947]

its also Glacier-Waterton Lakes International Park......Waterton Lakes is also home of the Great Northern "International" cruise boat once owned by the Great Northern Railway, as well as the Prince of Wales Hotel built by the Great Northern Railway....both Canadian Heritage sites located in Waterton Lakes Alberta just north of the border with Montana

[@wayneeschbank2895]

Thom What a great video and thank you for the cometary as I have seen a few videos on the train and not much in the way of telling me about the places or what the sections of railway your traveling over, Thank you Thom and l love your videos

[@Thom-TRA]

I’m so glad this video was helpful to you!

[@sarahjane9512]

Great video. Have been thinking of this exact same train excursion. Thanks.

[@Thom-TRA]

I’ve done it twice now!

[@jerrypinkepank8087]

Essex is the base for the manned helpers from there to the Summit of Marias Pass (which is pronounced mar-RYE-ahs today though named (indirectly) by Meriweather Lewis in 1805 during the Lewis & Clark expedition. There was a decision to be made when the expedition reached the confluence of a major river with the Missouri River they'd been following since leaving St. Louis in 1804, that posed the question of which river they should follow when continuing west. After study and discussion with their subordinates, they chose the river headed more southerly as being the continuation of the Missouri, and the more northerly river Lewis named for his cousin Maria Wood. Initially the river had an apostrophe in the name, Maria's River, but that was dropped and the present pronunciation of the river and pass evolved. The pass was named in 1853 during the northernmost of the 1850's official routing expeditions for a transcontinental railroad, head by Isaac Stevens; Stevens named the pass for the river although the river doesn't actually rise in the pass--a tributary of the Marias called Cut Bank Creek rises there. Helpers were used eastbound because that was the loaded direction for decades from the time the railroad opened unit very recent decades , mainly lumber. From the 1980's the traffic has become more balanced in direction due to the development of long distance unit grain trains carrying export grain to Pacific Northwest ports (Seattle, Tacoma, Kalama, Vancouver WA, Portland) although containerized imports in double stack trains outweigh the mainly-empty returning containers, and imported autos vastly outweigh exports, so the imbalance still exists but not to the extent it formerly did. The pass is the lowest crossing of the Continental Divide in the US and with improved drawbar strength there is less need for helpers and the single unit locomotives you saw at Essex were, I think, there for snowplow service. I'm not aware whether or not RCE's are used over the pass--I think it's avoided because the high-tonnage trains (grain and ethanol or Bakken crude oil, loaded direction westbound) use in reverse the route you followed, i.e., Spokane to Vancouver, WA along the Columbia, and then diverge north at Vancouver for grain headed to Kalama, Tacoma or Seattle, and for ethanol and crude oil, for the Anacortes, WA area refineries. The ruling grade on Marias Pass both ways is 1.8 percent and these unit trains have Grade E steel couplers able to stand the drawbar force on Marias, but would need helpers (manned or radio remote) on the 2.2 percent grades of Stevens or Stampede passes. At East Glacier you show Glacier Park Lodge but don't mention it in your narrative, probably because nobody pointed it out. This is a spectacular place, built by the Great Northern in 1913, and I'll quote the Wikipedia article about its most outstanding feature: "The lodge is built around a three-story lobby measuring 200 feet (61 m) by 100 feet (30 m), lined with Douglas-fir columns 40 feet (12 m) tall and between 36 and 42 inches (91 to 106 cm) in diameter. Each column was brought in by rail from the Pacific Northwest because trees in Montana rarely grow so large. A total of 60 such trees were used, with Douglas-fir in the lobby and cedars for the exterior. The logs in the main hall are detailed with smaller logs at their tops to resemble the Ionic order. The lodge was loosely styled as a Swiss chalet akin to other lodges built by the Great Northern between 1913 and 1917. The original structure contained 61 guest rooms, the lobby and the dining room. The addition housed another 111 guests." It was closed for the season when you went by, hence the Browning stop instead of East Glacier. Browning is notable on the railroad for its wind gauge, which will stop trains when the Chinook winds out of the mountains are strong enough to blow empty cars out of trains. When I was chairman of BN's derailment analysis group in 1973-1978 I recall receiving a derailment report of such an incident (before the gauge was installed) in which a dozen empty auto rack cars were lifted entirely clear of the tracks, the report stating "main line blocked by 24 trucks" [bogies, not highway vehicles] Havre is the location of a major locomotive shop, situated to deal with the scaling up westbound and scaling down eastbound of power consists. In the early years of Amtrak, 7 and 8 changed power here because Amtrak had BN maintain 7 and 8's power at Havre, and changing there avoided a long refueling stop such as you experienced at Minot. I enjoyed the fun you had with the pronunciation of Minot. Havre's diesel shop was closed for a time in the 1990's with the work divided between Northtown (Minneapolis) and Interbay (Seattle) but that was found not to work as well, and Havre was re-opened. As Assistant Director Industrial Engineering for BN I worked with a partner from the Mechanical Department to install a work measurement program at major BN shops in 1978-79 and the highlight of the Havre installation was dealing with BN's fleet of 20-cylinder, 3,600hp SD45's, all of which were assigned there; they were plagued with crankshaft issues due to the length of the 20 cylinder engines, and also the slanted radiators were prone to leaks, though that was being solved by replacement tubes known oddly as "flat round" tubes. --Jerry Pinkepank

[@flhxri]

I rode coach in 1996 to Philmont on the south west chief. I slept in the vista dome car, the seats were big and no one was on it.

[@rayizard5687]

The last time I took the Empire Builder the Cafe attendant was taken off the train in White Fish in an ambulance and was never replaced. We were so far behind, the next day's train was right behind us from Minnesota onwards!

[@Thom-TRA]

That’s terrible! I hope they were alright

[@rickyboy1947]

Did u know that an American built the Canadian Pacific Railway, and a Canadian built the Great Northern Railway?.....interesting history to check out

[@Thom-TRA]

I never knew that! That is a fun fact

[@BillyDiamond]

This is so cool! Thank you so much for doing this video. My 86 year old dad and I are taking the Empire Builder from Chicago to Seattle to visit my sister in July (2023). We are actually starting our Amtrak journey in south central Pennsylvania. I am so excited for this trip and am gathering as much info as possible in advance as I know that this will be one of the last trips for my dad and I as he is getting so much older and on the onset of declining health. I can't wait to watch your other videos on the Empire Builder. Again, thank you so much for sharing this. It really means a lot to me that someone like yourself would share info and your journey. On a side note I refuse to do air travel ever again and I can't think of a better way to see this great country. I've seen it by car but this is a whole lot different and can enjoy the memories and relaxation. Thanks again!

[@Thom-TRA]

I liked the empire builder so much I’m doing it again next month! Cherish this moment with your dad :) and let me know how it went if you remember!

[@BillyDiamond]

@@Thom-TRA Oh, absolutely. Thanks for being accessible and in tune with your channel here. You have no idea how much of an education you gave this old guy already - thanks. I was just sitting here thinking. Aside for the obvious kids and family if someone asks what have you enjoyed so far in life I would have to say it has been seeing America and just getting out there to enjoy life. I still have Empire Builder questions and train questions but don't want to bombard your channel or you with questions. But please consider I am used to car and air and now I am so ready to embark on a new chapter in my life - train travel because I refuse to fly again due to Real ID and just the fact it is not even close to fun anymore. I can certainly see how you think #trainsareawesome

[@AskWlat]

I’m guessing Harrisburg, PA

[@BillyDiamond]

@AskWlat BTW.... this was the train trip from hell, both to and from. We ended up flying both directions midway through each leg. Coast to coast is not a train adventure I would ever do again. It is totally unreliable and expect hours upon hours of delays. At one point we were 17 hours behind schedule on the way to Seattle. NEVER AGAIN! However, I certainly don't mind the quick trips up to NYC and back to the Burg as they are really quick, usually on time, and very efficient, and to also mention more cost conducive than driving.

[@AskWlat]

@@BillyDiamondI champion the Keystone Service to anyone moving into the area from New York or New Jersey. I’ve had to do a lot of single day trips to New York in the last few years and I love it. I love the idea that I can jump on a train at 9:30 pm on a Friday night and be in Times Square by 1 am if I ever wanted

[@rickyboy1947]

yes in Alberta, there is Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump.......a world heritage site.....the Crowfoot Indians

[@user-nc5gt5ut2d]

I took this and was lucky enough to get a sleeping car. The little coffee stand in Minot was closed thought. That was was about the only major disappointment.

[@NickP16]

The Empire Builder does not actually officially enter Glacier National Park. The BNSF mainline skirts, the southern border of the park. So it’s pretty darn close but not actually in the Park Boundary

[@AndrewTubbiolo]

@15:15 I wonder if any of those cattle ever make it to the diner car? Another great vid thanks. Appreciating the POV of doing Amtrak in economy.

[@Thom-TRA]

Lol

[@dianethulin1700]

Thank you for this! I am planning on going to Whitefish this summer out of Seattle on the Empire Builder. I know it's 13 hours but don't feel it's worth it to buy a roomette. I appreciate seeing you ride coach1

[@Thom-TRA]

Coach is honestly a very good option if your body allows it. And it’s tragically lacking in KZbin reviews, so I’m happy to provide this! Whitefish, fun! Hiking trip?

[@dianethulin1700]

@@Thom-TRA I am planning on taking the Coast Starlight out of Emmeyville into Seattle. I am going to the Pop Art Musuem and whale/orca watching. Then coach on the Empire Builder to the annual Hootenanny. They have a two day festival that raises funds for the local hiking trails. Yes hiking and then back home but going to fly out of Whitefish In Feb/March 2024 I want to take a huge train trip to see some snow I hope! It will be Coast Starlight- Emmeryville to L.A./ Then Roomette on Southwest Chief to Chicago. After that I want to do a Family Sleeper on the CA Zephyr as a bucket list item. I have only done the SW Chief to Lamy NM twice. Once Roomette and once coach. Coach is usually fine!

[@sammy7068]

nice content did u get to use cash for the cafe lounge car? love the4 views out the windows traveled on the cz in coach twicelong ago

[@dennisforner6090]

At the start of this video, I realized I forgot to mention in my comments in your part 1 upload that another spect that makes train travel unique is the scenery, as the train made its way through the snow-covered mountains. I didn't think given that since it was March that there would have been so much snow (did it bring back fond memories of living at Grand Rapids in Winter?). Many comments that after a while the prairie scenery becomes a bit too predictable. One thing for sure I'd rather be on the train than on a bus doing a trip like this. Great upload, especially the attempt at humor towards the end🙃

[@Thom-TRA]

Fond might not be the word I’d choose to describe my winter memories from Grand Rapids 😂 but, to be fair, seeing the snow from the comfort of a train car, as you point out, was very nice. The prairies do get a little dull, but I liked watching the cows and the small towns pass by. Or I’d video chat Lindsey. Definitely missed her on this trip. We got to go on a small one to Joliet, IL together today. Good quality time.

[@dennisforner6090]

@@Thom-TRA I fully agree - nothing beats watching the snow from the comfort of a train. I recall going from NYC to Toronto on the Amtrak Maple Leaf just after New Year's Eve & looking at the snow-covered terrain as we headed north along the Hudson River - my wife loves the cold (the things we do for love!).

[@ryansadventurepage7336]

Making a video of my empire builder route in August. Hoping mine can be as pleasant as this was lol. I don’t have much knowledge to share about the trip though

[@Thom-TRA]

Hopefully some of the info from our video will make your trip even more interesting!

[@WQ-yg6cv]

This is very informative. Does it make sense to use a weekend to travel from Seattle to Shelby or Cut bank, and then take the west bound train on the same day of arrival back? Unfortunately I don't have time to go all the way to Chicago

[@Thom-TRA]

If you find something to do, you will have a good 12 hours to explore before the train heads back!

[@kirkzevola5004]

Awesome ride onboard Amtrak Empire Builder #8/28 through the Rocky Mountains and through the valley plains the change of scenery from the Rockies & the flatlands is brutal. I also believe you are the first person to record the Amtrak Empire Builder inside the 7.2 Mile Long Flathead Tunnel. Did the Amtrak crew onboard ask y'all to refrain from traveling between cars when inside the 7.2 Mile Long Flathead Tunnel to avoid getting the Engine Exhaust Fumes, Coal Dust & Whatever hazardous things are inside the tunnel from getting inside the cars?

[@Thom-TRA]

To be honest, I woke up and started filming, so if they announced something, I missed it. Makes sense though.

[@kirkzevola5004]

@@Thom-TRA I'll take that as a yes because when I took the Amtrak Empire Builder roundtrip they asked us to refrain from traveling between cars when we were inside the 7.2 Mile Long Flathead Tunnel & 7.8 Mile Long Cascade Tunnel to avoid getting the engine exhaust fumes & coal dust etc etc from getting into the train cars.

[@Trainethusiast78]

I would like to travel on a train

[@Booken02]

Thom following you and your adventures...do have one question, is Bear older or younger than you? I can not wait to see the next installment.

[@Thom-TRA]

Younger

[@Booken02]

Thanks 👍

[@schoc13]

what side of the train is the best side? left?

[@Thom-TRA]

Yes, I would definitely recommend the left if you’re going towards Chicago (the north side). If you sit in the observation car, you can switch sides whenever you feel like it too.

[@divox9pqr]

Flathead or Cascade…Which tunnel is longer?

[@Thom-TRA]

Cascade is longer

[@terryb0241]

Why dont the have showers on the trains when you traveling long distance?

[@Thom-TRA]

To try to get you to pay for a room

[@mattburke7151]

Your lucky to ride Amtrak for 70 dollars. I tried to search for that but was unable to find those less than 100 dollars

[@nataliajimenez1870]

He explained in the previous video that they used a 2x1 deal. You can sign up to Amtrak Rewards to get emails of special sales

[@DuffmanChi]

Did someone try & teach you CRT at 11:40? 🤣

[@Thom-TRA]

Nope, just something about Dutch people and the tribes of Israel lol. Very much the opposite of CRT, something about how “my people” were special because we descended from Abraham.

[@lopoa126]

Always interesting to hear what people think CRT is. You get the uneducated Trump crowd claiming it is just about shaming white people.

[@Thom-TRA]

@@lopoa126 yep. Just like “woke” or “identity politics.” The Republicans just beat a word to death until it has no meaning anymore, and it can mean whatever they want. In this case, to send their followers into a meltdown anytime someone suggests white people should perhaps address our history with some humility.

[@Ry_TSG]

“Hur dur CRT” ok grandpa go back to your confederate themed bed

[@Thom-TRA]

@@Ry_TSG proud to say this channel has lasted longer than the confederacy! Lol