Analyzing Claire's Bodices in Excruciating Detail (Outlander S1-2)

I've just been obsessively analyzing Claire's bodices over the last few days, and figured I'd document it, since I couldn't find much information already out there. This will be particularly useful if you are wanting to make an Outlander bodice, and don't know where to start with the patterning. Or, if like me, you are inexplicably fascinated with mitch-matching wardrobes, and with costume wardrobes, and mitch-matching costume wardrobes convince you that Heaven is a place on Earth.
The Pinterest board of screenshots: / outlander-costuming

[@jolienvsndijk]

I love when people start a sentence with "controversial opinion" when talking about a super niche topic like what Outlander use to attach their lacings to Claire's bodices.

[@perryh.-r.4419]

"Burnt on the funeral pyre of my sympathies for Frank" YUP

[@hollynotholy]

I'd buy your recreation of her bodice's pattern if you ever put it up, but if not, I'll gladly watch anything else you might bring us from Outlander analysis.

[@deborahmelo7993]

I absolutely love these “analyzing” videos!!

[@MariahPattie]

Thank you so much!

[@drummerlovesbookworm9738]

The OCD level is mind-boggling. As a complete bookwormocdnerd, I bow to you, Mariah.

[@asiabryant207]

Yes. After the Emma one I had to force myself not to beg for more. So many screen shots 😍

[@user-bh1tb9em1q]

The most historically inaccurate thing is that no one would have that much clothes in 18th century

[@MariahPattie]

Right? Especially some random person with no roots. She’d be lucky to get one full outfit together.

[@drummerlovesbookworm9738]

Well, but Jamie really loved her....💕💕

[@solesuna]

that‘s what I was thinking the whole time during the first two seasons. It got a little better in season three

[@kendalbrenneman]

I know! I was wondering how she was affording all of this....

[@jessicaraine8403]

I had just assumed she was borrowing clothes from other characters and this had to accept whatever was available from laundry for the day and that was why it kept changing in season one. I didn't even think to pay attention past that first little bit of time where she was borrowing. There's no way she would have owned this many pieces, especially with all the running they did through the show lol

[@jrrpolzin2]

Why oh why didn't I find your video 2 months ago?! I am almost finished a season one inspired outfit using recycled garments (a teal, velvet jacket, a flannel bedsheet, etc) and this is great for the small details I can tweak to make the overall costume more polished. Thanks for all your detective work!

[@TotallyxKatiee]

I love that you talk about what they used and how you’re gonna use the same fabric. I can’t justify the price for a costume that I’ll probably only wear to the Renaissance faire. I followed your tutorial for the skirt and it turned out so good! I used a blue plaid shirting fabric as it was all I could find at Joann’s, but it looks quite nice and definitely gives me the Outlander look. I made the bodice out of regular navy cotton, but I do think the navy wool would look much better and I may invest in that later on. I have yet to make the stomacher and add the sleeves that will be laced on. I did white hand sewn eyelets for the bodice and will use that for the sleeves too. Thanks for making these Outlander costuming videos, they are very helpful

[@hattekid]

I cannot believe you did all of this work! Thank you !!

[@darklymoonlit]

I was not expecting "I might hoard stomachers". Love it.

[@tammymasson2343]

That was awesome! What an incredible amount of time and effort you put into this! Wow! 💜 I can totally relate to your comment in the description box about being "inextricably fascinated." I can barely pay attention to conversations and plot lines in movies and plays because I'm so intently studying the costumes and wondering how they were made! 😂 So this video was literally a dream come true! 🤩🥰

[@jessicaraine8403]

The one outfit that seems to be missing is the green one from when she was traveling with duncan. No lacing or stomacher, no detachable sleeves, and the bodice and skirt are green.

[@josiesarered]

the blue skirted bodice with the white stomacher is my all time favvv

[@bloodyrain100]

I just had the opportunity to watch the Outlander series and plan to make a Barbie dress, but I'm having trouble capturing images. Fortunately, I came across your video first. It really saved me a lot of time. Thank you so much!"

[@aimster2084]

I know this is an old video, but I just had to comment that I FINALLY understand what a stomacher is after watching this video.

[@juliecain6397]

gosh yes! I would love to watch you mock up cut and sew the piece or pieces you make!

[@kendalbrenneman]

Oh my goodness, THANK YOU for your hard work! I'm about to start making a small winter Outlander-inspired wardrobe and this was so helpful.

[@alcarinweisturlimiell4438]

I've been fascinated by one historical painting of one of those diagonal wrap over vests for a while, it was so cool that they actually included one - thanks for all your analysis of the pattern, now I might actually whip one up :D

[@MariahPattie]

what's the painting called? I'd like to look it up!

[@alcarinweisturlimiell4438]

@@MariahPattie not sure, but you can see it here: pin.it/6Yj0taH :)

[@serpentskein]

Holy cow, this video is the answer to my obsessive dreams

[@PozorPurple]

Thank you so much for this video! This topic is exactly what I have been thinking about recently, but your analysis is better and more deep than I could have ever imagined. ;)

[@Callmecaresse]

Love all this info. I'd like to see everything you do concerning her wardrobe 💕

[@Callmecaresse]

And you may have seen this already but if not it may interest you! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZzQlHSOgs59oqc

[@daisanders82]

For the one piece back you mentioned you might look to the "English Gowns" or Robe a l'Anglaise style for the backs. They most likely didn't do it in the show, as most often it is fitted directly on the wearer to give the sewn down pleats the right proportions etc, and wardrobe wouldn't have had the time to do this for all the jacket bodices.

[@annemarielarooy9118]

Thank you for all your research. The chevron bodice is still my favv.

[@BallooNeccesities]

I would love to onow if you have come up with the pattern for the "chevron" bodice. I have been contemplating trying to make that one myself for wearing to Highland Games this summer. My heart is set on it but am finding the stripes to chevron bit a tad intimidating if only due to my beginner skill set.

[@MariahPattie]

I haven't yet, but I'll post if/when I do.

[@BallooNeccesities]

@@MariahPattie I am looking forward to it, thanks for replying to me 💖

[@LixiaWinter]

I rewatches this video a year late and had the same question. Hope that it's in queue

[@kristencalcaterra5662]

This is so helpful, thank you!!

[@MadameDeLaForet]

This is great, thank you!

[@brandyloutherback9288]

I'm more obsessed with the criss-cross fichu look!

[@kendrathompson244]

I just discovered your channel and I love it!! You have so many fantasic insights and ideas and I can't wait to see what you do with them : )

[@redshirts4757]

None of this applies to me but I dont care, it’s interesting

[@MariahPattie]

haha, thanks, I guess that's a good thing :)

[@redshirts4757]

Mariah Makes Totally

[@plasticreplica]

Thank you for these very detailed videos

[@TheWhiteMistress]

very well made video! I highly enjoyed this & it was exactly what I was looking for. Thank You!

[@juliecain6397]

Thanks for your excellent work.

[@bridgetmartin3896]

Omg thank u for this video, i am currently making my own outlander inspired outfit, and was wondering what fabric it was, i figured wool but wasn't sure so of course I came to KZbin, when in Doubt, lol... I haven't decided if i should make a replica of the outfit or a more historically accurate version of the outfit... So far i have the shift(not quite completely done yet, got some seeming to do still), an apron, a pocket, and I'm currently working on the stays at the moment....

[@lizfox8968]

Great fun! thanks.

[@JaviiBebe]

The thing about match line in one shoot and not match in other... could be because the team dismantled and put together again a couple of time the clothes... just to give it the idea of that time when they have to recreate their own clothes (because it ripped or something)

[@MariahPattie]

I kind of doubt they would go to that effort for something probably nobody would ever notice. I think it's much more likely that they produced multiples of the same jacket and some were stitched slightly better than others.

[@JaviiBebe]

@@MariahPattie in fact they go through that process and other like aging (whit bleach)

[@MarinaLKitchen]

I loved this video! Thank you!

[@Pureimagination200]

Check out the Paris episodes costumes!! Wow!

[@katerrinah5442]

"To later be burnt on the funeral pyre of my sympathy towards Frank" oh my god that scene hurt my soul. Why would you burn such beautiful, historical clothing? And wool at that??? Here I am saving for ages up to make a full-wool Outlander-inspired dress and bloody Frank Randall is over here burning one ffs Frank

[@raiastravaganza2]

Will you do later seasons? I love Claire’s and Brianna’s style in the 4th and 5th season. They do not seam to wear bumrolls most of the time. I especially love Brianna’s green and rose jacket/bodice oftentimes worn with a belt.

[@roxannlegg750]

Once again - your research is very thorough and well presented. Well done. However, I must add something. This is JUST IMHO. But everyone bangs on and on about how the costume dept only had 2 weeks blah blah blah. In all seriousness...the costume dept may have only had 2 weeks notice of the actress BUT, they would have had a range of toiles ready to go - remember her first scenes were loose fitting clothing. Her 1940's suit was a little too big. They knew they were going to cast someone with a body size which was going to be close to hers anyway. So, if it was me, I would have made the skirts, tacked all the pleats, with maybe the opening at the back with a couple inch ease for the individual. Remember too the bodices are laced - which would accomodate a range of sizes. The only REAL difference - that would matter for correct fit is body length...the first from shoulder to bust point, and then bust point to the waist. One or two HALF inch difference in body height at these points makes the world of difference to fit. These two measurements impact the curvature significantly. Her bust size is just laced into what ever size they can pull her into. And that said, most of these laced bodices look a tad too short in the body - esp at the back in the screen shots - SO this to me gives credance to my theory that these were made PRIOR to her casting, as they are ALL laced at the front. The brown bodice - remember, the first one she wears, is one lying arund that Mrs Fitz puts her into...so it wasnt designed to fit her, and this shows...I agree with you - it was one they had "lying around". Being an ex-model she is taller than I think they were expecting to cast, and also a bit taller in the body. And seeing the laced bodiced riding up so much at the back I feel gives cred to this theory. The fully fitted ones, of which there is only one of to begin with and not seen in the first couple of episodes was made exactly for her. That one and another are the only garments that I could say was made JUST based on her sizeings. And when she is presented to the McKenzie, the skirt at the frint looks a little short..its ankle length, and i think subesquent ones were made longer. Ive been doing this for over 20 years - and trust me - all this is not hard to do - I can make an outfit for someone with only vague dimensions, and the fit has only minor adjustments to it - IF you know what youre doing that is. I made over 40 garments for my 50th which was an Outlander/LOTR/Poldark event - and only half my friends were costumers - the rest I made all myslef, with few fittings. ANyway - so, when the cast member was decided on, there would have been only an inch or two at MOST difference in waist size, and they would have been making only slight changes to what they already had. THEN the exact bodices were fitted, as Im sure they would have already had a set of toiles ready for when the cast member was appointed. Sadly - the film industry is STILL casting very skinny women within a VERY narrow size range...which would have been easy for even ME to plan. Yup - it was short notice for the casting, but not for the costume dept...theyre better than that. To have "nothing ready to go" as ppl might think from the statement of "she was cast only 2 weeks before filming" - is misunderstanding how professional costuming dept's work.

[@christianvanderschouw3709]

Please do an Outlander capsule wardrobe 😊👌🏻

[@laurahassevoort4339]

Why were the sleeves seperate from dress with that large stitches what was the story behind that look..purpose?

[@SeerWalker]

i appreciate the enthusiasm for historical costume this show has created but the inaccuracies bother me so, and especially the way they’ve been recreated time and time again in the costuming community. but so long as people are enjoying themselves ❤️

[@2enigma8]

You haven’t seen the museum photos on Pinterest?

[@annakat3291]

In season one, is anyone able to tell what Clare has on for a false rump? It’s the 1740s so I’m assuming a pannier?

[@MariahPattie]

you see it in the first dressing scene. It's a round bumroll.

[@aryalupus8690]

Could you maybe share these screenshots on a Google Drive or somewhere where they can be downloaded easily as a pack? This is such a great compilation :)

[@lisasmith4339]

Thank you!! Can you put a link to your adjusted bodice?

[@MariahPattie]

I will when I'm finished. Eventually I'll probably make a whole series of outlander vids, but for the moment I'm holding off until I finish my 18th C stays, so I can hopefully get the silhouette right.

[@sophiegold3310]

Would u do a video on Claire dresses in season 2

[@e_viola]

YEEEEEESSSSSS!

[@RobynCoburn]

Fascinating. I am interested in any and all of your analyses of costumes. If you feel called to discuss the knitwear of Outlander, I will be delighted to watch.

[@earinbutler2731]

plan selling a pattern?

[@catherinelepriol7800]

to quick i do not have even time to read

[@trojanette8345]

Nice video concept from a fan point of view. However, you've got WAAAAAY too many visual transitions. Would have much preferred perhaps 2 or 3 videos instead of one, fewer descriptive analysis in each video and you speaking a lot slower. Many times I found myself stopping and starting the video just so I could grasp the material you were throwing at me. It was just too much to take in all at once. Otherwise I liked the video a lot. Thanks for sharing your ideas.

[@MariahPattie]

you're probably right. I was trying to pack as much info as I could in without it getting to 20 minutes.

[@MariahPattie]

I did go through and edit and add punctuation to all of the subtitles, which might help some. This video is a bit of a general overview, but the next video on this topic will be about actually making the pattern, and will narrow the focus down.

[@amyjanefrater1447]

O I love your videos. I vote YES! for excruciating detail! This is exactly the information I've been searching for. Thank you!!