Thank you all for tuning in! HERE IS an extended discussion of this story, live streamed on 14 July 2024, which you may find super interesting: kzbin.infoeq1ILYiCWIk Your comments and insights on the 1996 Everest disaster are greatly appreciated. Please, be respectful of everyone mentioned in this video, both the living and the deceased. Everest Mystery values diverse opinions but draws the line at unnecessary name-calling and outright disrespect. Let's keep our community respectful and considerate of everyone.
@hawkeye98Ай бұрын
I have read every book I could find on this subject. I think everyone tends to tell things from their eyes. I personally think Anatoly is a hero for his actions that day. Weather you think he is a hero or a villain I think everyone can agree that peoples lives were saved that day because of his actions.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Absolutely.... Thank you for watching!
@samanthab1923Ай бұрын
No doubt in the end it was his ability to go w/o H20 that made him a hero to so many. It’s all his other behavior I question. Seemed to be in it for himself. Not a team player.
@J24JАй бұрын
I agree. His book “The Climb” is extremely interesting and it made me think. Anatoli was the only person able and willing to go out in that storm solely to find that group of climbers who would have perished without him. He also went a long way up to try and save Scott. People who only read Krakauer’s book and take the defamatory things he says about Anatoli as gospel should not assume that it is the whole story or that everything is fact. You have to hear from climbers who were on Anatoli’s team. Lene Gammelgaard’s book also offered perspective from the Mountain Madness team. You get a much fuller picture of what went on. Reading about Anatoli by somebody who was not on his team does not give you the full picture, especially when that author lied.
@bigwaidave4865Ай бұрын
He made up for his transgressions in going up to the summit without oxygen on his own. He should’ve been there helping people on the way up , which in the end he did in fact, save many peoples lives. He is a hero.🙏
@dilyaramarsh7770Ай бұрын
@@samanthab1923, that's what makes him a hero, thinking independently from a "team"
@markwaters7760Ай бұрын
Anatoli was a gifted mountaineer! He saved many lives that day! I cant believe his actions are even questioned! RIP on Annapurna, Anatoli!
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thanks for watching, I appreciate your insights!
@christinecallahan5512Ай бұрын
Exactly my words........
@Boababa-fn3mr2 күн бұрын
Perhaps he could have saved more with supplementary oxygen. Moreover, even the greats can fall victim to misfortune and mishap. That oxygen wasn't just for his own benefit, it was for the benefit of clients.
@BernardSolomonАй бұрын
In my opinion, the villain that day was the storm. Everything else is hindsight. P.S. Love your respectful tone.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
I believe you are 100% correct...the timing of the storm was perfectly horrible. Thanks for taking the time to watch!
@samanthab1923Ай бұрын
The Mountain was mad that day
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@EverestMysteryBreashears being a good friend of Scott & Rob ,why didn't he convince them not to go up since he had the latest weather report ?
@Juhani139Ай бұрын
As i understand Anatoly's argument was, if you climb up with O2 and run out, you're in trouble. But if you climb w/o it and need it and then use it, you're good. Doesn't matter what JK said in his book, Anatoly was rested and he was the ONLY man that went out and rescued those people. Some of whom never thanked him. If I'm not mistaken, directly they got down to basecamp, he climbed the neighbouring mountain solo. Beast.
@dana102083Ай бұрын
Yes he climbed lhotse from base and without 02. I want to say it was within 24 hrs as well. He needed therapy :( but unsure if it was planned or not..
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@dana102083...it was planned...before the Expedition ,Scott & Toli planned Lhotse also after Everest & in my opinion Toli felt he owed it to his friend Scott & climbed Lhotse solo.
@shewearsfunnyhatАй бұрын
There was oxygen available for Anatoly. Scott had ordered three bottles for him to use if needed. So, its not like he would have taken oxygen from the clients if he needed it.
@user-cw8hw8vo7gАй бұрын
So much has been said about this tragic story I wonder why it keeps going. Just a few comments. 1. If Rob Hall and Scott Fischer had stuck by the 2pm turnaround time it's highly likely noone would have died. 2. Anatoli Boukreev had climbed ten 8000ers without oxygen. 3. Nobody would come with him when he went out alone, three times, to rescue stricken climbers. According to his own account, Jon Krakauer was unconscious at the time, despite having completed the climb in good style. 4. In his book, Krakauer claimed that Andy Harris, another Adventure Consultants guide, had rushed past him on the way down to the tents. This was untrue and must have caused huge distress to the family and friends of Harris, who perished going back up the mountain to help the others. 5. In recognition of his heroic efforts, the American Alpine Club awarded Boukreev the Daniel A Sowles Memorial Award. RIP Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev
@Chiller11Ай бұрын
There were a number of untruths in Krakauer’s book that made him look good and were biased against Mountain Madness.
@GirlWhoWaitedPaАй бұрын
Half of Krakaur’s book can be proven false by Scott Fishers pictures from that day Into thin air is a joke.
@obvNameLessАй бұрын
Im my opinion, the problems were with all the guides for not enforcing the turnaround time more strictly, but i think most of the onus for this falls on Rob Hall and Scott Fisher. I don't see a problem with boukreev not using bottled oxygen during the climb because a) he was a gifted mountaineer and was aware of his limits b) he made sure to properly acclimate for a summit push without bottled oxygen (rotation to camp 4 or close to camp 4) c) he had oxygen on hand in case he needed it d) he had the permission of his expedition leader and none of the clients cared whether he used it or not. Boukreev makes the point in his book that in the case that you run out of oxygen, you are partially deacclimated to the altitude making it much more difficult to cope with the harsh environments, and i think that in the rare case that you are in the top 1 percent of high altitude mountaineers, climbing without bottled oxygen isn't necessarily less safe because of that. I do question his decisions to turn around ahead of his clients and descend, but in this occasion it did not matter as it left him in a spot to assist climbers once he had regained his strength, since going out into the storm was very risky. Although he may have lived had he stayed with his clients, i don't know whether he would have really been in a better place to rescue them given the ferocity of the storm. Most of the clients he had to carry or drag back into the camp. Jon Krakauers account of the disaster is well-written, but many people have found errors in it so i don't think it is fully reliable as it tends to put a more dramatic spin on the events.
@ChristianHeid7Ай бұрын
@obvNameLess I encourage you to listen to "Neal Beidleman | Mill House Podcast - Episode 19" here on KZbin. He talks about the turnaround time there and the situation he was in. Lets not forget that Rob Hall was allowing his clients to go on and Scott Fisher was not even there to make the call. Also talks about many of the big moments on the mountain that day - including the robe fixing issues, oxygen situation and so much more.
@GirlWhoWaitedPaАй бұрын
Scott Fishers photos from that day discount Into Thin Air .
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@ChristianHeid7..Scott was coming last & probably did not even carry a radio for him to pass orders to Neal...did Neal have a radio ?
@darrell3752Ай бұрын
Boukreev RIP. I have never found comfort in Boukreev being out front ... not with the clients he was there to guide. One never knows, however, it is not beyond the possibility that Boukreev would not have had to have been a hero that day .... had he stayed with the clients that needed the most assistance ( as in he could have gotten the whole group into the tents prior to the storm ). I do not understand guiding from up front and being one of the first in the tent.
@ChristianHeid7Ай бұрын
@@darrell3752 Agree in many ways. With that said - Like Neal Beidleman explained in recent interviews, him and Anatoli had to fix ropes cause the 2 sherpas did not do it. That was pretty much the main reason they two were in front up to the Hillary step. And Anatoli couldn't stay at the summit for long without oxygen. He gave his emergency oxygen to Neal before he went down.
@macbubba-z9i20 күн бұрын
I think people frequently misunderstand Boukreev’s perspective about his role on Fisher’s team. You read the Climb and Above the Clouds, and it’s very clear he did not view himself as an “assistant hand holder” for the clients. He saw himself as responsible for carrying gear, fixing rope, and advising Scott on technical issues. He believed clients should be strong and self-sufficient. His decision to hike down ahead of the clients on May 10th makes perfect sense from this perspective. This decision didn’t bother me at all. Boukreev was never going to stand next to Pittman all day saying, “Great job Ms. Pittman. Would you like some hot tea Ms. Pittman. Can I lay my coat down for you to sit on Ms. Pittman.” Yeah right! Krakauer may have expected that from Boukreev, but that wasn’t reality. It also makes me so mad that ONLY clients from Krakauer’s team died. Not a single client on Boukreev’s team died, yet Krakauer blames Boukreev. Lets not forget Krakauer hauled ass down the mountain, ditched his colleagues, and zipped himself into his tent, never to reappear until the storm passed. He didnt provide a lick of assistance when the going got tough, whereas Boukreev risked his life multiple times. Blaming Boukreev in any way for this tragedy is flat out dishonest and unfair. It makes my blood boil just thinking that Krakauer had the gall to insult a man who did nothing wrong. If Krakauer was so worried about his team, maybe he should have stuck around to help them down. Rather than blaming a guide on a different team for not taking Krakauer’s responsibilities onto his shoulders.
@mikes37567 күн бұрын
I think Krakouer himself was ambivalent about his role. He was not a regular paying client. His mountaineering experience was close to that of the guides. Not high altitude but experienced in tough situations. If he had been a guide he might have done something different
@cappy2282Ай бұрын
Anatoli a legend and it's a shame people still put any blame on him. He did exactly what he was hired to do. He looks so sad in picture from Scott's memorial 🙏
@CharlieBoy360Ай бұрын
Hero. No question about it. He did all he could, even risking his own life to help others. It seems that not sacrificing his own life was not enough for some people, especially certain journalists.
@traceywoodbridge3396Ай бұрын
So well put
@christinecallahan5512Ай бұрын
Exactly my words........
@humbertsmith8864Ай бұрын
So well done Thom! Surprised how emotional this was to watch. While trekking in the Khumbu last year I read THE CLIMB, shedding tears at times. Although I love some of Krakauer's writing, it really bothers me that he refused to edit/apologize in his newer versions of INTO THIN AIR, after writing several falsehoods about Boukreev (his climbing gear, preparations, etc). One can only guess at the reasons. I agree that ultimately Boukreev was heroic and incredibly gifted. Such a tragic tale.
@traceywoodbridge3396Ай бұрын
Huge lump in my throat as there always is when going back in time to the terror and extreme sadness.
@humbertsmith8864Ай бұрын
@@traceywoodbridge3396 well said!
@georgemartin1498Ай бұрын
I live in Boulder, Colorado. If I look out my living room window I can see a business establishment, by name Neptune Mountaineering. It’s changed ownership over the last ten years or so when founder Gary Neptune chose to retire. During Gary’s tenure there was a part of the store that was a climbing museum and this continues today but on a smaller scale. An imposing element of the original “museum” was a photograph, blown up to 8’x10’ size on a wall of the last known image of Boukreev, taken by Neptune. The former headed up to his death. I will never forget that image.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
That is one of the great climbing shops - I was unaware of this photograph of Anatoli.....and was also unaware that Gary was on Annapurna in the winter of 1997! It was a big loss to the climbing world to lose Anatoli.... Thanks for watching and for commenting (you live in a cool place....my brother lived there for a few years in the late 90's early 2000's, and we had a blast when I'd visit)
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
My basic question is as to why John Krakaeur was writing about happenings in Scott's team whereas he was part of Rob Hall 's team... he should have written about Rob Hall 's poor Leadership which resulted in death of 4 climbers of his team ...just to market his book he dragged in Toli & in that process , smudged Toli's name & reputation
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
Reading the book Into Thin Air should be mandatory. JK wrote extensively about Hall's team, and was was more critical of himself than anyone else on the mountain. JK was hired to go on the mountain to write about the guiding industry on Everest.
@lilith_JDCАй бұрын
That day nature gave a lesson, which Jon did not learn as he remained arrogant. Into Thin Air is full of lies and honestly a racist undertone. Jon goes so far to try to shame Anatoli even depicting him as not wearing appropriate clothing....when we have proof Anatoli was wearing the proper clothing. Yet Anatoli, who climbied without oxygen, was the one to save people. Anatoli was the only rational person among them all because he had trained himself to not depend on oxygen. He knew that running out would mean trouble. It is not a coincidence that of all of them he was the one lucid and strong enough to save others. Beside he had permission to do so. Thus, not to blame. I guess we can all say it is very easy to think what we would have done differently now after the facts.
@rvander7070Ай бұрын
WHY IN GOD'S NAME IS THE WORD "VILLAIN" EVER ASSOCIATED WITH THIS GLORIOUS HERO? IT'S ASTONISHING THAT ONE GARBAGE PIECE OF WRITING COULD PAINT A SAVIOR INTO A VILLAIN.
@ludar39925 күн бұрын
@@rvander7070 🙏🙏🙏🙏❤️
@ursuladirnbergerАй бұрын
I've read "Into thin air" several times and this story always sends cold shivers down my spine whenever I come across an article, a video or a book. I haven't read "The climb" yet but recently I've read "After the wind", written by Lou Kasischke who was one of Rob Halls client. He was one of the climbers who decided to turn around and this decision saved his life. The book is amazing. Just because he explained so vividly what it means to stand on that mountain and what willpower it takes to turn back 100 m from the summit - after going through a lot, after so much effort has been endured, so much torment, and, after so much money has been paid. I strongly recommend reading this book! Anatoli's behavior was also discussed. I agree with both authors and with you that as a guide he shouldn't have climed without oxygen. If you are on a private expediton, you can do whatever you want. However, as a guide, you are responsible for your clients and there is no time for personal preferences. Also, Scott Fischer was the boss. He shouldn't have given the permission to him climbing without oxygen. In my opinion, though, this was not the key decision and it didn't lead to the death of all the people that day. Anatoli saved lives up there. Loads of decisions were made wrong - especially by the guides - but I think, the fact that Anatoli was in camp 4 early and had a chance to recover, saved some people's lives, while staying on the mountain might has been his own death. I think, he was an extremely strong climber and he was a hero. I can't understand why people don't get tired to accusing him or even Sandy Pittmann of being responsible for the disaster that happened back than. That's ridiculous. Yes, it's a tragedy that both experdition leaders are among the victims, but I'm convinced that their poor decisions played a large part in making this event one of the blackest days in mountaineering. It's not Sandy's fault and certainly not Anatoli's!
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Great comments, thank you for taking the time to share them! I'm glad you watched the video....really good to have your thoughts. Thanks for your support of the channel!
@oughtssought1198Ай бұрын
maybe I'm alone in this opinion, but Anatoly had a preference based on experience ... he knew what he could do from everything I've heard + read, his performance matched that expectation we aren't all constructed the same ... I've had people telling me it wasn't safe to do things I'd already carefully done & continued to do afterwards since I was a kid playing tag in trees with friends we did all sorts of things the adults told us we couldn't or shouldn't did Anatoly physically outperform everyone else on the mountain that day? made better decisions, too? the question marks are there becuz I haven't studied the topic recently nor thoroughly enough to have an opinion on the question, but that's my opine as I see it now I fully understand the thinking behind the criticism re: his not using O it's an apt view to have+defend for easily understandable reasons but there are exceptions to every rule & this tastes like one such to me very much enjoy the thoughtful, calm, multi-perspective tone of your analyses
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
I have a question..did Anatoli go all the way down to Base Camp & climbed Lhotse solo or did he go from South Col to Lhotse ?
@anastazis7901Ай бұрын
@mchandrashekhar4043 all the way down to base camp. There was a memorial service and he took part in it, and after that he climbed Lhotze
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@anastazis7901..Thank You 🙏
@miapdx50320 күн бұрын
I do believe that your channel is the best when it comes to all things mountaineering. You cover every aspect, and you do so with a professionalism that sets you apart. I had to sub. 🌹👍🏽😎💯
@EverestMystery20 күн бұрын
@@miapdx503 thank you so much !
@miapdx50320 күн бұрын
@@EverestMystery Hey, I appreciate the work you put in. When you dealt with women being assaulted, you had my utmost respect. It's a subject that most men won't touch, a difficult subject. But you laid bare the challenges that women face, things that men don't have to think about. Thank you, like I said, you touch on every aspect of mountaineering, while most are looking for likes, you are doing a great job at covering everything about it. Much respect from pdx 🌹
@EverestMystery19 күн бұрын
@@miapdx503 thanks very much for the comment, I really appreciate it. I wrestled with the idea of doing the video of which you're speaking, for quite some time actually. I immediately lost subscribers (which doesn't bother me....if they don't like it, leave then) and had to delete some incredibly insensitive and obtuse comments. I have an incredible wife, with whom I've had countless conversations about these issues. I've also known some individuals that are essentially family to me who have opened the doors to new layers of understanding about these issues. My thoughts on this channel are that if I'm going to stick my neck out on the line, we might as well talk about things bigger than garbage on Mount Everest or guiding companies that exploit their clients. Thanks for being here and for taking the time to share your thoughts.
@misscecityАй бұрын
Thank you for this video ! I've seen many documentaries on this but you bring a fresh eye on the subject. I like that you take the risk of giving an opinion, always respectfully. There's something like collective madness playing in 1996 everest season. Many brains were affected by the altitude and it's a real paradox that anatoli, who climbed without oxygen, was one of those who kept their cool and saved people. That said, with oxygen, he could have been even more efficient. (sorry for my english, I'm french and I don't know if my sentences are correct). thank you !
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
Votre Anglais est beaucoup meilleur que ma Francais! Je suis d'accord avec vous en ce sujet. Anatoli etait un homme incroyable.
@misscecityАй бұрын
@@thing_under_the_stairs merci pour votre message et bravo pour votre français !
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
@@misscecity Merci beaucoup!
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
Your English is very good 👍
@ChristianHeid7Ай бұрын
I prefer to not look at anyone as a Villain when it comes to weather related tragedy. With that said. The responsibility for a safe trip on Everest is always on the expedition leaders. And in this case both of them made some very bad calls on the day, costing them their life and fellow climbers. My view on Anatoli's involvement changed after listening to great Mill House Podcast with Neal Beidleman where he goes over key moments on that tragic day. Just the simple fact that Anatoly handed Neal his emergency oxygen that he never used might have been the reason why not more died on the mountain this night. Cause this extra oxygen allowed those in worst conditions to get further down the mountain and closer to the camp before the huddle. Secondly - We can not make any predictions on what would have happened if Anatoly had stayed on the mountain with or without oxygen. The most likely outcome is that he would have stayed with Scott Fischer and tried to get him down. Even died trying. But we can not look past the real big mistakes that were made on the day. We can mention the logistic issues with oxygen and fixing robes that did lead to some delays for sure. But the key moment always comes to the turnaround time no matter what. The two last mistakes on the mountain were also made by Rob Hall and Scott Fisher. Rob Hall could have turned Dough Hansen around instead of going down again to help him to the top. This would for sure have left those two further down on the mountain for rescue even the day after. And Scott Fisher pushing to the top while all of his clients were going down is beyond any rationality - other than personal goals. And him going down when he met Neal Beidleman would have saved some precious energy and again left Scott further down the mountain and better chance of rescue anyway. With that said. Lets not forget that one member of the Taiwanese expedition, Gau Ming-ho was saved off the mountain when Fisher was too far gone. Gau would most likely have died since the sherpas would probably not have been there - if not for Fisher. I encourage everyone to listen to the Neal Beidleman story on the Mill House Podcast - Episode 19 found here on KZbin. He also talks about Anatoly oxygen debate but at the same time reflects on prior trips he did with Anatoly where both were climbing without oxygen on another 8000 meter mountain. And he also explains very well how Scott Fisher's illness affected the Mountain Madness guides. Cause Rob Hall and Scott Fisher were the leaders for both teams. It was their call to turn clients around. I also want to point out one key point Beidleman made in the podcast. The most dangerous clients/climbers on Mount Everest are not those that have zero experience in mountain climbing. The mountain will exhaust those and turn them away long before groups are dangerously high on the mountain. The dangerous ones are those with the experience that can get themselves into situations where it's almost impossible for any rescue. Fact of the matter is that all of the climbers that reached the summit on May 10th, 1996 had plenty of experience. Including even Yasuko Namba that only had Everest to finish her 7 Summits challenge at the time. And for some to dare talk like she had never worn crampons before - shows how stories can be made up to justify people's point of view rather than the truth of the matter. But at the same time - she might now have had the experience needed to turn around like some of the more experienced clients did on the day. That was on Rob Hall to do. And lets not forget this. Those with the most experience died on Everest that day in 1996. And considering the situations, and their decisions on the day - it was maybe for the best. Cause it would have been very hard for them to live with those decisions for the rest of their life. In the end - we should never forget how much the weather affected the descent for all involved. Just about anyone can get to the top of Mount Everest on the right day. This just wasn't the right day. The weather window simple was not stable enough this early in May.
@johnnomcjohnno1957Ай бұрын
To me the only villains are the expedition leaders, Rob Hall & Scott Fischer. Fischer - "We've built a yellow brick road to the top". Hall - "100% success! Send for our free colour brochure." These blokes painted an idyllic picture of climbing Everest and did a sales job on clients some of whom shouldn't have been there. On the mountain, Rob Hall convinced Doug Hansen to keep climbing when he should have been going down, dooming them both. Fischer even though he was the expedition leader didn't climb with any of the clients on the day, probably shouldn't have been climbing at all. Boukreev, Lobsang, Biedelman & Groom all tried to save people at risk to themselves. None of them deserve criticism compared to the expedition leaders.
@GoodieWhiteHatАй бұрын
I agree totally. “Yellow Brick Road” ffs! I’ve heard many of the accusations but although this or that shoulda / coulda been done by various guides the leaders made very poor and, frankly, strange decisions. Rob should never have pushed Doug, Scott should never have pushed himself. They shouldn’t have tried to impress the media through Sandy and John, and they should never have believed their own glossy ads. The guides and the clients did everything they could.
@vanzell1912Ай бұрын
Both Hall and Fischer abandoned their turn around times for selfish reasons..
@GoodieWhiteHatАй бұрын
@@vanzell1912 yeah. It’s strange that they could feel so hopeful, and very sad.
@oughtssought1198Ай бұрын
our host (of whom I'm a fan) called that yellow brick road "extreme irony" extreme HUBRIS would be more accurate IMO
@dana102083Ай бұрын
Groom may not be innthe same boat as fischer and hall, but leaving Beck alone and not double checking is absolultely on HIM. I would have thought after all that theyd make sure everyone was out..
@GoodieWhiteHatАй бұрын
Thanks for the video! This is one of the greatest and saddest stories of adventuring history. I want to know if Anatoli’s lack of oxygen made any difference to his performance, decisions or abilities that day. If it didn’t then we can only say, that’s not advisable, and leave it at that. It shouldn’t be discussed as a factor at all. He had an aloof but good natured personality that didn’t have any interest in nursing the able bodied. From his book he seems to have been interested in climbing for himself as well as being in a group and saw his role very differently. He never intended or understood himself to be a helpmeet. If Anatoli had been better utilised and his exceptional energy corralled by Scott then perhaps, as you say, he might have been able to help in a less frenzied way, even convincing the over tired Scott to return to camp (ytf was he still going up?) and he may have been more assistance to the others and not needed to bomb around rescuing them and leaving poor Yasuko. But he never said he was a group strategist so he can’t be criticised for not being one. In the end it comes down to the weather and the inappropriate decisions of the two leaders.
@HootncozyАй бұрын
So here for this! Every time you post, I gobble up the story. Honestly, I believe it was the “perfect storm”, he truly battled nature, mountain, the other climbers and himself. Sometimes we are our own worse enemy.
@Meshell_SmilingАй бұрын
Great video, as usual! Thank you for always being fair and unbiased ❤ I could listen to you tell stories forever!
@RobertMiller-tu6zqАй бұрын
Fisher's clients and guides came back alive and mostly well. Hall's clients and guides? One guide and two clients died, and a third client barely survived with terrible frostbite. I think both Fisher, Hall and Boukreev made mistakes, but only Hall's clients and guide died. I think most of the blame is on Hall and his effort to get Hansen to the summit very late in the day. If he had turned back at a reasonable time, probably only Fisher would have died. Krakauer was part of the Hall team, and understandable was sympathetic to Hall. However I think he was unfair to Anatoli. One very incisive point he makes however is the effect of high altitude on mental ability and judgment. Clearly this affected all of the climbers.
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
Interestingly, it seems that out of all of them, Boukreev kept the coolest head in an emergency situation, and saved the most lives. No matter what happened before the storm, he was a hero that night.
@shewearsfunnyhatАй бұрын
Fishers clients had one more bottle of oxygen than Halls clients. That extra bottle of oxygen might have been one of the things that allowed them to survive longer in the blizzard.
@andotheandal6566Ай бұрын
There were so many factors that contributed to the tragic outcome of this 1996 climb that it is impossible to levy the blame on one alone. Was Anatoli a Villian? I think not. He was an elite mountaineer who ultimately saved lives that day via his heroic acts. As you correctly point out Anatoli was not a man from a western culture, he was a unique and different kind of 'beast'. I feel he was not really suited to be a guide on a western commercial expedition, he was an 'alpine style' climber and perhaps Scott erred in hiring him in the first place. As an aside, little is ever mentioned of the heroic acts of Hall team guide Australian Mike Groom that fateful day - shout out to Mike!! Would love to see a video at some point on Lincoln Hall and the selfless actions of Dan Mazur (and others) in that near tragedy. I'm happy to see you enjoying and supporting Australian music! Really enjoy your vids, keep 'em coming.
@kelleystillman-hamrick8427Ай бұрын
That guy went out there regardless risking his own life, he went back
@kayla1245768Ай бұрын
He’s a hero. He was born in high altitude. Climbed his whole life. He saved lives. He absolutely was not a force of negativity. Not using O2 was normal for him.
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
I think that growing up in the Ural mountains is a big factor that not enough people take into consideration. Not everyone can handle altitude well, unless they've lived at high altitudes. I've lived most of my life near sea-level around the Great Lakes, and even hiking around Banff makes me dizzy! (Although there's some great low-altitude rock climbing in my area!) No way am I going to try any high altitude climbing.
@RobbielazarАй бұрын
@@thing_under_the_stairs I find it reckless facing the Everest without real high altitude climbing experience.
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
@@Robbielazar Exactly! People need to realistically know their limitations, and live within them. I learned early that I'm a low-altitude creature, and although it's mildly disappointing to know that you are incapable of climbing a mountain, it's not that big a deal when the world is so full of other things to do!
@RobbielazarАй бұрын
@@thing_under_the_stairs A lot of people lose their life because of this blind spot. Being humble and knowing your limitations is key. Either, driving too fast, buying a big CC bike, high altitude climbing, cave diving, “learning to fly “ and so on
@thing_under_the_stairsАй бұрын
@@Robbielazar That, and the ingrained belief that "it won't happen to me". I've lost too many people who though that it wouldn't happen to them to ever believe that. Make your risks calculated ones, and enjoy life without courting death!
@lizbethtalko1199Ай бұрын
For someone who has never done anything like high altitude climbing (I only did Pikes Peak), why is it important for a guide to have supplemental oxygen if he has done climbing before without it and has been successful without any issues. Not sure why it is a big deal. Thanks. Love all the videos.
@sharono4245Күн бұрын
My guess is so that as a guide, he could share it with a client in need. Just a guess.
@roofsshower9541Ай бұрын
Thanks for telling this story. There is a slight error at 18.45 where you refer to Doug Hansen and Yasuko Nambo (who passed away) as Mountain Madness clients but they were actually Adventure Consultants clients.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
YES, thank you....I knew that and must have been already onto my next thought.... My bad. None of Scott Fischer's clients lost their lives. Thanks so much!
@yellowgutАй бұрын
Great video, Neal Beidleman doesn’t get near the credit he deserves for that day. Secondly what are the chances Scott Fischer was already beyond saving early in the day due to an altitude related medical condition? Seems he was simply on cruise control with no chance for survival.
@jungleperryАй бұрын
the only person to blame is scott fisher and then at a later time Krakauer misrepresented reality.
@Riversdoc11deff3 күн бұрын
Your channel is a treasure . Thank you for your honesty, class and sensibility . 🙏🏻
@daadirabbiАй бұрын
Thank you for informing us about the disaster that occurred in 1996, you deserve a million subscribers.
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
I can't thank you enough! You might enjoy the other '96 disaster videos I've done (linked in the notes of this video). Good having you here
@alexgummer4979Ай бұрын
Will you have a John Krakauer hero or villain?
@dilyaramarsh7770Ай бұрын
He is no one. Hope he slept well all these years.
@alexgummer4979Ай бұрын
@@dilyaramarsh7770 He deflected from the hero so no one would see he is the coward tourist he went there to criticize. At the end of the day he paid and expected guides to do everything, and showed no care for his teammates and willingness to take a risk to help save them. He is no better than those tourists he criticizes. So he slammed the hero that knew infinitely more than he did. Question the oxygen? Anatoli was able to keep going back out and rescuing people even without oxygen, doesn't seem to have held him back. Then went back up when no one would. Doesn't seem like the oxygen stopped him. Dumb analysis. While Krakauer refused to leave his tent and just thought about how to blame others and critique tourist climbing, which was him in the end.
@dilyaramarsh7770Ай бұрын
@@alexgummer4979 , you're absolutely right!!!!
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
JOKER
@paulgrey802810 күн бұрын
The reason why the IMAX team did not like the conditions is because they were receiving very accurate weather reports from a meteorologist who warned of the storm forecast for late on the 10th of May. Both Hall and Fischer were privy to those weather reports yet not only took their relatively inexperienced climbers on a summit attempt on the 10th, they totally ignored turnaround times that Hall had drilled into his clients that was vitally important. What's most disappointing is that Breshears, Viesturs and Krakauer all refused to address the issue on those weather reports. Fellow climber, Grahame Radcliff who was on the South Col the night of the disaster, was not even mentioned in Krakauers book. It took Radcliffe over three years of intense research to uncover the truth without any help from the climbing community.
@alisonauton4064Ай бұрын
Thank you for covering this! Another great take on this disaster is "Left for Dead" by Beck Weathers.
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
Also Climbing High by Lene Gammelgaard
@graemesefton7944Ай бұрын
The inarguable part of this is that Anatoli was a hero that day, that Fox and Pittman would have died without him. And Michael Madsden, who stayed with both women to help keep them alive whilst they waited for rescue, and was the forgotten hero of this day himself, may also have died too if no rescuer had come..and Anatoli was the only rescuer who did. So inarguably Anatoli was a hero..the questions revolve around how much of one he was. But i should repeat again that NOBODY ELSE rescued anyone this day, although Beidelman and Groom did all they could and Beidelman, in particular, got all of his clients down close enough to Camp 4 where they could be rescued in the first place.
@PartanBreeАй бұрын
I'm not a climber but I really enjoy your videos, they're informative and gripping, and I love that you have an emotional connection to the subject. Your passion for Everest and high altitude mountaineering really shines through.
@marianam86439 күн бұрын
I am very glad you mention culture when describing Anatoly. When Americans look at someone who is a tall white man and looks like them, they automatically attribute cultural attributes to that individual. That was the mistake that Krakauer made, I think. Also, Scott Fisher should not have hired him. Soft skills, coming naturally to Americans dealing with American clients are NOT part of the makeup of a poor boy from Khazakstan. The characteristics that made Scott Fisher hire Anatoly were that he was a very strong climber and would be there if things went sideways. This is exactly what Anatoly did. No more and definitely not less. He saved lives.
@pattyrotАй бұрын
I love your channel❤
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
I'm really happy that you do! Thanks for being here :)
@marksasahara1115Ай бұрын
I think Boukreev is a hero. He was able to save lives on the mountain. I think the blame lays on the Fischer and Hall. They were putting people with no business being on that mountain at that altitude. Many had zero experience climbing, and/or being at that altitude. In the past, only the best climbers even thought about trying to summit Everest. The commercialization of summiting Everest is a bad idea. There should be a qualification process. It is also stressing the environment and polluting the mountain at an alarming rate.
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
Listening again. The comparison of Boukreev vs Beidleman vs Krakauer's stories are fascinating.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thank you! Have you seen the live stream I did on this topic last weekend? You will get nearly 90-minutes, much of it not covered in this video. Here is the link: kzbin.infoeq1ILYiCWIk Let us know in the comments over there what you think! Thanks for all of your support!
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
@@EverestMystery Yes, I was there "live" when you did it :)
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
@@carrie4d117 you're the best! So glad you saw it live :)
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
Thank you for this video. Why was this climb so publicized when other years more climbers lost their lives. But the 1996 disaster remains the most famous.
@DonnaRoushallАй бұрын
Correct me Everest guy….. but I believe it was because of the 2 goats…. Hall & Fisher…. And that this was the first big filmed documentary of any climb up Everest…
@thelogicaldangerАй бұрын
Before 1996, most people didn't know anything about Mt. Everest, or that people actually paid to climb there. The 1996 tragedy was the first that most people heard about climbing on Mt. Everest, and the quick internet updates made it even more real.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Yes, something about the disaster touched a nerve deep inside the collective consciousness. Thanks for your support of the channel....without it this video wouldn't have been possible.
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
@@DonnaRoushall good points. why did Scott Fisher keep going? Others noted that he looked tired. Why was that?
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
@@EverestMystery I'd love to hear Beidelman and Beck Weathers in person.
@christinaurso-cale7601Ай бұрын
The unsettling reality of life and humanity, is that rarely do people fall neatly into the category of hero or villain... People are nuanced and complex and Anatoli particularly so. Most accounts that I have read or seen, including Neil Beidleman, is that Scott did not want Anatoli to climb without Os, and also wanted him to stay with the group. It was pretty clear that Anatoli saw his job very differently, but that he was grudgingly allowed to do as he wanted that day. It can't really be disputed that what Anatoli did that night was heroic, but that does not necessarily mean he is the hero of this story, because nobody knows what would have happened had he stayed with the group. And had he stayed and been able to rescue Scott - what would have been the fate of the others?
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thank you for the insight! My e tended version discusses a bit about the cultural differences. However, your insights are well put and important to consider.
@hannahbeanies8855Ай бұрын
Boukreev was a gifted climber who was rough around the edges, but when it came down to it he did his best to save lives. Overall a good man even though he did make mistakes. I do not think he deserved to be villainized. I don’t think Krakauer should be villainized either. I think he did not understand the entire picture, but he is a gifted writer, so people listened to his opinions. Everyone suffered massively on that mountain during that storm. I think we should offer them all some grace, while also offering fair criticism. Humans are complex. We are just all doing the best we can.
@fishkapbАй бұрын
16:09 Not all 5 climbers already lost their lives 12 hours after the storm broke out at 4pm.. Next evening (more than 24 hours later) Rob Hall have still had radiocontact with camp 2. About the rest we can speak only supposably. No one of them was found definitely dead to that moment. Even Yasuko Namba, left for death that night, could still be alive.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Yes....thanks....I intended to draw this sentence out into a paragraph that explained how the wheels had been set in motion for five to lose their lives. The original video was 50 minutes, whittled down to 35, then to this....some content had to go. Thanks for your attention to detail and thanks for watching.
@cameldaddybactrian997915 күн бұрын
my understanding is that what are you are stating in this video.... 2 bottles of oxygen for summiting and 1 bottle cached on the way down.... (3 bottles total) were also written in Jon Krakauer's book... but it was Rob Hall's team that had this limited amount of oxygen. Scott Fischer's team was to have 4 bottles of oxygen (2 bottles from south col, and then one more at each of 2 cache points) to the summit. Also, Rob Hall's team had a 1pm turn-around time. Scott Fischer's team had a 2pm turn-around time because they departed camp IV 45 minutes later. As others have stated, the leaders should have obeyed the 1pm and 2pm turn-around times and it is likely that they would have all survived. Scott Fischer's team had no problem summiting because they had plenty of oxygen. They increased their risk of a safe return by spending too long on the summit.... waiting for whatever stunt that Scott Fischer had planned for the summit
@SchussinBootsАй бұрын
@EverestMystery, Like others I have read a lot about this subject and was very interested in your take since I consider you to be one of the most balanced and informative speakers on any Everest related subjects. I’m interested to know if you have read the book by Graham Ratcliffe: A day to die for 1996: One survivor’s personal journey. I’d really like to hear your opinion on that as a source of a somewhat alternative viewpoint on some of the issues faced on that awful day. Including the accuracy of Jon Krakauer’s account and the prior knowledge of the storm forecast. If correct, the claims in that book make for some pretty big changes to the widely accepted account of that day but I never see anyone reference this book, so I’d really like to know whether you feel it is an account worthy of consideration. I trust your opinion. Thank you for another brilliant video! 🙏
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
Good book..
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to comment! I have not read the book that you mentioned but will have a read of it. Admittedly, I'd never heard of it. To be continued....
@SchussinBoots26 күн бұрын
@EverestMystery You’re most welcome, it’s a great channel. 😊 and thank you in turn… look forward to hearing your thoughts when you get a chance. 🙏
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
@@SchussinBoots You're welcome! I just found the book online and read some of the reviews....very interesting!
@djohnson9083Ай бұрын
Good morning. Have you read Lou Kasischeke’s book? I thought it was very interesting. An account from someone who was “just there” as he was identified.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
I haven't read it, but have heard on a number of occasions that it's a good read. I appreciate that you watched the video and for bringing his book up. I'll grab a copy!
@bigwaidave4865Ай бұрын
Bad decisions in changing circumstances. They broke their own rules, and people died..
@dt380229 күн бұрын
What if Anatoli would have been further up and saved Fisher, saved one man and four others die? No room for what ifs in this situation. IMHO
@johnx-tx8qdАй бұрын
Excellent video. I don't think anyone will every doubt Anatoli's experience nor his abilities and certainly no one can doubt his heroics saving so many members of his team when all appeared lost. He was among the best ever. But.......that doesn't mean we should gloss over all his actions of 5/10/96. He was there as a guide and with Scott Fischer in bad condition and far behind them, I would have assumed he would take charge. So why he didn't he enforce the 2p turnaround? As a guide why didn't he use supplemental oxygen? And most importantly, when his group finally descended, why did he leave the people he was being paid to guide, so he could rush down to campIV to prepare in case of rescues? Did he really think Neil himself could get their whole team down? Not saying he was the villain of the day, but mistakes were clearly made imo.
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
Why didn't Neil take that decision to turn back clients ? That authority rested with Team Leaders & a paying client with summit fever wouldn't listen to Guides
@Keithholliday2707Ай бұрын
Hi all , good piece by channel 4 in the UK on Everest Nepalese teams recovering 4 bodies ,a skeleton and tonnes of Trash , sorry couldn't think of another way of letting you know. Love Everest Mystery Thom , keep up the amazing work and i love the bass in Rattlesnake.
@bobcunningham9590Ай бұрын
Good analysis. Some hard truths said with fairness and compassion. Thanks for what you do.
@tsjackson72Ай бұрын
Great hearing your thoughts. I tend to believe Anatoli was climbing for himself, and perhaps, showing out a bit. However, be it God, fate or luck, he was in the right place at the right time to save lives that might've been lost but for him. Very heroic, as well as a great climber!
@MizQueАй бұрын
In 2020, Neal Beidleman told Andy Mill's podcast that Boukreev had agreed to guide using oxygen, then chose not to. Neal also said although Anatoli was a good friend, he believed the story Boukreev told after the climb was tailored to fit the actions he took that day .
@BackstageMusicChannelАй бұрын
Calling for a follow-up video!
@MizQueАй бұрын
@@BackstageMusicChannel I'd like to see Thom interview Neal Beidleman.
@MizQueАй бұрын
@@Jean-bp1jf Neal said Anatoli handed him his bottle when they climbed to fix the ropes. I agree that Fisher and Hall bear the ultimate responsibility, but it's harder to blame them when they both paid for their mistakes with their lives.
@CharlieBoy360Ай бұрын
There is a video weeks before, of Scott telling the interviewer about the doomed summit, that Anatoli would not be using bottled oxygen. Not sure why Scott would say this unless it was true.
@stevet9938Ай бұрын
@@MizQue I saw that interview and it seems clear that Scott wanted Anatoli to climb with oxygen and that Neal also felt that he should have climbed with oxygen.
@tlam3309Ай бұрын
Thanks for supporting Australian music!
@teresacorrigan3076Ай бұрын
🇨🇦🍁thank you. I don’t know why but I always love listening about mountain climbing. 😊
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thank you for watching! Here is a live stream I did on this topic recently, wherein I covered a ton of material that I hadn't had the time for in this video. Here is the link, I hope you'll find it fascinating: kzbin.infoeq1ILYiCWIk
@JoshuaNorton-ki6ufАй бұрын
An interesting video, and it has raised an immediate question in my mind: Scott and Anatoli agreeing that Anatoli descended rapidly to prepare to receive clients at camp 4 suggests that there were no Mountain Madness Sherpa there to perform that function? It does back up something in Krakeur's book, where Scott is stated to have relented an earlier decision and allowed all the Sherpa who reached camp 4 to make a summit bid, but he goes on to say that one Sherpa was forbidden to do so and had to wait at Camp 4. If all this is true, it suggests Scott already had some reservations about the descent. I have recently begun to revisit the 1996 tragedy after watching some of Michael Tracy's posts, and in particular I went and got Lene Gammelgard's book. Something in there is very relevant to your post. She originally wanted to climb Everest without oxygen, and Scott was supportive of thus up until the approaches to the higher camps, when he forbad her to do so. She was angry and upset, and states Anatoli comforted her and said he would try to help her to go up without oxygen. More telling though is that she writes of Scott intending to climb up without oxygen on the summit push as far as the South Summit and use oxygen from there. (P151 paperback ed. 1999). This was in the camp 4 just before the summit departure and she states just before this Anatoli was the only one climbing without oxygen, so he must have told her of his intentions before they set out.
@anastazis7901Ай бұрын
I finished Into Thin Air just yesterday. As JK mentioned in the book (having learned this from Lopsang himself), it was Lopsang who forbade another Sherpa from leaving C4, and Scott was unaware of this decision
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@anastazis7901As such Scott was too sick up the mountain to take balanced decisions
@tIReDofConVErsaTIoNАй бұрын
Hi Thom. Great channel. After watching this video - particularly at 10:55 - it made me want to get your take on the deaths that resulted from the cornice collapse on the Hilary Step this season. I'm an avid armchair mountaineer without any technical insight and I'd like to know why climbers wouldn't be clipped in to the fixed ropes during the Hilary Step. I was moved by the death of Dan P during this event because he was from a very deprived town very near to mine in the UK. He was a working class man who'd saved his life for this trip and prepared well with previous summits of high mountains. A great tragedy. Thanks in advance.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thanks so much for watching! I will have a video out very likely TODAY, Friday 19 June 2024 that will answer your questions. Stay tuned, my friend!
@Cape_Cod_SteveАй бұрын
Greek tragedy defined . Swiss Cheese Model as in causation . Just sad . . .
@josie328920 күн бұрын
Good video. Even better choice in Band T-Shirt!
@EverestMystery6 күн бұрын
KGATLW rules!
@teggyr01Ай бұрын
when it comes down to it, he risked it all to save people. Not many would do that up at altitude. agreed that Scott should have made him use Bottled O.
@dressagegirlkaeАй бұрын
I can relate to gaining weight while climbing mountains. Being a broke field archaeologist will make you appreciate a soggy ham sandwich.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Lean times indeed! I recall rolling $2 worth of nickels once for gas and happy that Ramen noodles you could get four for $1
@rebelbelle1388Ай бұрын
Two things can be true at once- Anatoli was a hero, but he also made some poor decisions. If he was climbing solo, he could certainly do so without oxygen. However, as a guide, that seems to be foolish and dangerous behavior. If you're in charge of other people's lives, you should do everything you can to make sure your clients make it home safely- not show off. Scott Fisher also obviously made some poor choices that day as well. The deadly outcome was due to many different factors and poor choices coming together, along with the hubris of the climbers.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Excellent insight...I really appreciate your thoughts and words on this. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and thanks for supporting the channel
@nezeda.8753Ай бұрын
Show off? I don't think so. This always has been Anatoli's climbing style, not like this was a secret or unexpected turn. Scott new Anatoli, this is why he invited him to be a guide and employed Anatoli. Notice, I do not say anything about guiding with or without os, I am solely making a point about a management decision. Scott could not have expected the behavior of a horse when he hired a unicorn. (Maybe he didn't. There are contradicting accounts about that, and as we cannot ask Scott, we will never know for sure.)
@AndiSchneider5 күн бұрын
The whole story is so sad. Rob Hall made the choice to get his client to the summit after running into him on the way down. He ended up turning back to help him, I think he was betting that the extra O cans were waiting for him. When Hall was starting down, his client was fading and low on oxygen, Rob wouldn’t leave his client until he fell off the wall. It’s just a tragedy
@ErinRenee1990Ай бұрын
I had never heard that Anatoli was supposed to go back down to camp 4 and get the camp ready. If that was the case and Scott knew that he would have already had it planned to have his clients taken care of by another guide. I don’t think Anatoli would have been able to turn Scott around. He had summit fever I believe. Now maybe if he would have been with Scott he might have been able to help him get back down after he collapsed. Who knows.
@alisonabedelmassieh9193Ай бұрын
You said if he had been using oxygen he could have saved Scott- Scott seemed to be on a suicide mission that day. I wonder if Anatoli could have helped Yasuko and Beck. Yasuko is the "quietest victim" among the two teams, and she could have made it back if she had been guided better. I know she was an Adventure Consultants client, but if Anatoli had been helping Neal Beidelman they could have kept Yasuko with the group.
@Brittany.Anderson6 күн бұрын
You should have made at least a 1.5 video well worth it. Nobody will have the exact same viewpoints of it all.
@romankrhounek59747 күн бұрын
I feel so bad for those poor souls that lost their lives but what gets me is that Charlotte Fox survived the storm only to die at home falling over a railing.
@christinecallahan5512Ай бұрын
I cried, when l heard about Scott Fisher.......
@ikGREENY9 күн бұрын
That hour spent fixing the lines at the Hillary face made the difference between life and death…
@user-zs4um9lw3n6 күн бұрын
Neal Beidelman was the reason those clients were still alive when rescued by Anatoli.
@daniduc9 сағат бұрын
People tend to think that human beings are either villains or heroes. We're more complex than that. That logo is good for story telling, but real life is not black and white. Anatoly made questionable decisions during the events of may 10th 1996 that may have contributed to loss of life. He ALSO did great deeds and saved lives that day. Both things can be true. He was not a villain. He was not a hero. He was a human being, doing his best as he saw fit at the moment. Some things he did had bad results. Some had exceptional results. Which one you emphasise depend of the story you want to tell. But Anatoly himself doesn't fit neatly into either category. In the end, he was bigger than that.
@elenavaccaro33910 күн бұрын
Just wondering... Wasn't there a weather watch that could have transmitted to the climbers? I have to say that I have no desire to climb higher than the North Rim of the Grand Canyon; I don't understand the drive to climb to those heights.
@dirtgrub284129 күн бұрын
If anything.. it's probably Scott's error in hiring him as a guide but then not making sure he was acting as a guide. Clearly Scott didn't want to manage him and that likely cost lives.
@tscully150427 күн бұрын
Turn around times not followed. On the controversies its nearly impossible to determine the truth when 2 versions differ and there were no other witnesses or none left alive. You can also count on some bias in everyone's story.
@rebeccacorbin159015 күн бұрын
I agree guides should be required to use O2. In this particular case, had Anatoli used O2 there would have been even less available for the clients. More lives could have been lost so not utilizing it inadvertently saved lives.
@Rachelshmachel6313 күн бұрын
Anatoli will be forever remembered as an inspiration and amazing climber Godspeed lad you are my hero
@cinnamongirl5410Ай бұрын
He went back out and carried people in when no one else, who later smeared him, would help him do. And couldn't they have made the turn time fine if the ropes had been fixed? But they got bogged down fixing ropes.
@KingHayabusa38425 күн бұрын
Anatoli saved three lives that day. In my view, that makes him a hero.
@paulgrey802810 күн бұрын
Anatoli Boukreev should not have climbed guiding without supplemental oxygen. He had strong opinions about not molly-coddling inexperienced climbers who he believed had no business climbing Everest [A reasonable attitude] but he went about expressing that the wrong way. Nevertheless, going out into that storm three times searching for the lost climbers was not only incredibly brave, it was a superhuman effort. [Other climbers at Camp 4 could not tolerate more than fifteen minutes in the storm before the cold forced them back into their tents] Anatoli lost his life in an avalanche during a winter climb of Annapurna. RIP Anatoli.
@fergalohearga9594Ай бұрын
I have read both books and more about this incident. It is indisputable really that Anatoli made a massive mistake in climbing without oxygen and heading down before the clients were safe. After all, they needed to reach the tents alive as a first matter and the tea could flow thereafter. I think it is likely that he was being macho, not so unusual for an alpha male, and made terrible decisions that he immediately regretted and tried his very best to correct with massive efforts. He was neither hero nor villain, just a person who made an error of judgement and tried his best to correct it.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thank you for your thoughts on this....truly appreciate your thinking on it. Plain and simple: guiding without using O's is not permissible. Thanks for all of your support!
@NoelG-IREАй бұрын
I agree it was a mistake but you could argue that’s all down to Scott for allowing it. Scott failed to lead and both Scott and Rob were having a pissing contest.
@GoodieWhiteHatАй бұрын
Did it make any difference, though? How did it affect any outcome?
@fffuuuu2Ай бұрын
All his clients survived tho? I am not sure how he was *expected* to save other team's members
@johnnomcjohnno1957Ай бұрын
@@GoodieWhiteHat I think you are right. It would have made no difference whatsoever. The climb down took a lot longer than it should have because of Beck Weathers (who was almost blind) and Yasuko Namba (who collapsed on the descent). Boukreev climbing with oxygen would have made no difference to how fast they could descend.
@nerdcirclefilmsАй бұрын
Anatoli was a hero, but he was also a selfish person who would only guide on his terms, and others be damned. Ultimately, there is no clear villain in this case. Was it Anatoli for ignoring Fisher's instructions? Was it Fisher and Hall who both invited media onto their teams, and put themselves in a position where they could not turn back. Fisher would have been the talk of the town. Hall would've had an ad campaign for life if he'd gotten the humble working man Doug Hansen to the top and back with his guiding prowess? Is it a general me-first, anything for the summit mentality? In the end, only the mountain knows the true story, but I'm sure everyone involved would like to have that day back. And if we learn from the mistakes made, then at least the deaths wouldn't have been for nothing.
@johnx-tx8qdАй бұрын
Honestly, I think when they first read about Anatoli and his heroics that night, many became so infatuated they refuse to see any other pov. Hence, why so many are anti-krakauer and honestly talk as if Scott, Anatoli and Mountain Madness walked on water.
@MountainTiger1111Ай бұрын
Thom, another great objective presentation with facts. It is not opinion but facts what happened that day. It was riddled with human errors that seem were piling on ,nobody stepped in to say it's enough of these cluster effects, we're done here today. But they all thought they will be okay, the mountain will give them a pass. It doesn't really matters who is hero, who is villain, there's no such thing ,just victims of their own summit fever that turned into ignorance disrespecting the mountain and the mountain sort it very quickly for them. RiP all who passed away that day and later. They are heroes, Anatoli,Scott,Rob, all of them and let's remember them as such.
@victoria180Ай бұрын
It's very sad. I'm not voicing an opinion on this. I wasn't there.
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
You did not touch upon shortage of radios with Guides & thus there was hardly any communication going on with Leaders...Scott in my opinion didn't carry radio
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Good call on that....yes, radios were an issue, and Scott's radio were outdated and quite heavy, as well as there were too few of them
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
@@EverestMystery..👍👍
@Suejd1001Ай бұрын
Theres discussion on other channels that Fischer was going to pull a prank on Rob Hall. That people were hanging around up trying to see that prank . They waited up to 40 mins at summit to descend. The two were both in competition with each other since thats how they provided for their families. Also- why have such a huge group? Why did they and others all summit at the same time?
@dilyaramarsh7770Ай бұрын
Hero, one of a kind man. No one would do what he had done!
@fotograf736Ай бұрын
Thank you for another great video. Boukreev was a great mountaineer. Just a sidenote, when the soviet union collapsed, many Russian officials in the former soviet republics were given citizenship there. So it's quite possible that he was a Russian with Kazakhstan citizenship, but I'm nitpicking at this point.
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
Yes, that is the case....he was born in the Soviet Union, then moved to Kazakhstan.
@chrismoore2971Ай бұрын
King Gizzard and the Lizard Wizard bought me here
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Greatest band EVER 🤙 stoked for their US tour! Thanks for being here, much appreciated
@richburnham431Ай бұрын
He went out and saved lives when others did nothing he is a hero rip
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
Anatoli was a hero
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Thank you for watching and for weighing in. I think more will be done on this story in the near future
@carrie4d117Ай бұрын
@@EverestMystery I find the comparisons of each person who was there is interesting. I used to think that one was omitting information to make themselves look better. After reading so many books and watching videos from each person, I think it is just that person's own reality. I don't think that Krakauer should not have been so hard on Anatoli.
@roberttaylor7451Ай бұрын
Always easy to judge when you look at it from the big picture. No one knew a storm was brewing and so many other factors that are now known.Be careful to judge
@mchandrashekhar4043Ай бұрын
Breashers & a Danish team on the mountain were getting upto date weather forecasts & knew a big storm was coming...did they pass on full info to other teams ?
@malousmom923123 күн бұрын
Reading Into Thin Air gave me such vivid dreams-I felt like I was on the mountain during the storm when. I went to sleep after reading the book-could not put it down!! I see there is some controversy about Krakauer’s account on the internet, but it was a great read!!
@Mila_BreareyАй бұрын
Anatoli really should not have left his team on the mountain. Had he assisted them higher up, while there was still time before the storm, there would have been no need for having to rescue climbers later.
@suewalker9039Ай бұрын
I understand that he was following Scott Fischer's orders?
@sandrasan246Ай бұрын
Depois de muito podcast sobre a tragédia de 1996 no Everest ficamos sabendo de muitos detalhes. Acredito que o caprichos da socialite Sandy com suas malas sobrecarregando um cherpa responsável pela instalação das cordas teve maior importância na tragédia, do que o Anatoli sem uso oxigênio, já que a colocação da cordas de última hora atrasou o percurso e colocou a todos no meio a tempestade. Aliás, Anatoli, depois de esperar por cerca de 1 hora, decide descer porque pressente a tempestade enquanto os outros teimosamente insistem em permanecer no cume ou tentando alcançar, num horário sabidamente perigoso. E ironia do destino foi o fato de Anatoli ter descido e poder estar em condições de salvar a Sandy. Nao fosse ele ela teria permanecido na montanha.
@EverestMystery26 күн бұрын
Thank you for your thoughts, and thank you for watching. Very interesting points
@lark5986Ай бұрын
Tom, FYI Anatoli's last name is pronounced "boo-CRAY-yev". Accent on the second syllable, as in Russian and nost Slavic languages.
@EverestMysteryАй бұрын
Excellent, thank you....I am doing a live discussion this evening and will endeavor to make it right this time!