Who was Anatoli Boukreev? How he rescued several climbers on Everest in 1996 ?

Anatoli Boukreev was a Russian / Kazakhstani mountaineer, who climb̶ed some of the highest peaks on earth in his lifetime. He was one of the toughest mountaineers of all time with an extraordinary stamina as compared to his contemporaries.
He made some of the most incredible ascents in the history of mountaineering. His expeditions were life-threatening because of avalanches, blizzards and many other mountaineering obstacles, but his love for mountains was much greater than any hindrance that came up his way.
He successfully climb̶ed 11 of the 14 eight-thousand meter peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen. His daring efforts to save fellow climbers in the blizzard of 1996 on Everest is considered one of the greatest displays of courage and determination in the history of mountaineering rescues.
But his spirited life came to an end when he was killed in an avalanche on the south face of Annapurna in December 1997. His body was never found which could be understood as his final act of devotion towards his cathedral, the mountains. He regarded the mountains as his place of worship and he became immortal through his passion for mountaineering which ultimately took his life.
#Anatoliboukreev #Everest #Annapurna
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[@clara4942]

I just finished reading mountaineer Andrew Lock's book Summit 8000, and he has nothing but praise for Anatoli. Anatoli was a remarkable climber and lived to climb and ultimately died for it, too. The courage is must have taken to go back out into that storm was something else. Personally, as someone who is going through the very expensive, time consuming, uncomfortable and totally awesome process of learning to climb mountains proper (full rope skills, climbing skills, alpine travel skills, wilderness first aid and survival skills and summiting small before even thinking about summiting big), it baffles me that people think a Sherpa is your ticket to protection on a mountain. You can be separated from your Sherpa for myriad reasons (he gets hit by an avalanche, you don't and vice versa; one of you falls while a new anchor is being tied and the back up anchor fails. One of you suffers an injury or your Sherpa must participate in a rescue. One of you is literally blown off the mountain. One of you falls into a crevasse and that figure 8 knot or clove hitch didn't actually go through the right hole becuase Jetstream-force winds were smashing you and your fingers are frozen solid. Rock fall hits one of you and not the other. This is a normal day on K2 and Annapurna 1). Sherpas are not your protection against the finger of God. To go to altitude without a full arsenal of skills, experience, risk assessment and full analysis of mountain terrain and weather is simply asking to die. It is to turn from the truth and lie to yourself so casually you then put others at risk. I respect Anatoli so much becuase he was a man that did the hard yards, put in the hard work, dedicated himself to his passion. He lived and died on his own terms.

[@PaultheSheik]

Anatoli Boukreev. Legend. Respect.

[@oldbat2ccats]

This video had my crying at the end. Boukreev was an astonishing character, an athlete in the true sense of the word. He was also a hero for saving three lives that night. Peace and love in your beloved mountains Anatoli.

[@TashaBryanUK]

Another great episode. I have always felt bitter reading Johns words. Anatoli will forever be a hero. No one else went back to rescue the others.

[@awkwardautistic]

Sounds like he was jealous

[@TashaBryanUK]

@Awkward Autistic I believe the same. His ego took a bash by simply doing nothing.

[@Docochoco39]

Tasha Bryan, I totally agree with you. I’ve read a few older stories he did. I didn’t get a very good feeling after initially watching Krakauer’s presentation that he did only a short time after the tragedy. Please understand that I, not being a climber, am only giving my opinion. Subsequent interviews given by other climbers and even guides are really telling on how they word their replies. It’s almost like they’ve completely avoided even mentioning Krakauer’s reporting of the tragedy and what led up to it. I think a couple of interviewees hold back saying anything for I think it probably wouldn’t be positive statements. I watched to first motion picture on the Everest disaster that used Krakauer’s book. That film really felt like it was missing a lot more information that has since came to be known. Anatoli saved lives that night, period. I think people need to let him rest. I know this might rub some people the wrong way but I liked the interview that Neal Biedleman gave.

[@TashaBryanUK]

@Ralph Oswald I whole heartedly agree with you Ralph. He should definitely be left to rest. I watched Neils take and how conposed and controlled with his words he is, least insulting of some guides. I'm not a climber, like yourself, just fascinated with tragedy.

[@MrDannyboyhall]

To be fair his main criticism was correct in the fact that a guide should have used O many guides have had issues with Anatoli not using it so it’s fair for him to say that all that being said Anatoli was a hero not only for those he saved but for what he did for yasuko namba’s husband he went up again got her wedding ring and gave her a burial and returned it to her husband he was a guy with a big heart that’s for sure

[@PaulRosencrantz]

Anatoli Boukreev - A legendary figure in mountaineering for sure. Great video!

[@epicadventurearchives]

Yes indeed!

[@granthurlburt4062]

Boukreev's autobiography is very worth reading too.

[@tdurb0]

It is. It’s one of very few books I could finish and immediately start again. Krakauer treads on his legacy and he is in no position to do so. This pisses me off. A lot

[@jackharle1251]

Anatoli had a ghost writer. Might be worth listening to Messner thoughts since he knew both.

[@rada9748]

I read it. Very good. “Mountains are the cathedrals of the world.”

[@tdurb0]

@@jackharle1251 Yes I agree. It would be very interesting. I hate the way it’s going. But then, it’s only going the same way as everything else on earth, trivialised by over-exposure, until it seems almost jaded as an achievement. Putin for instance, went up Alpine style, in under 5 hours, base-camp to summit and back, alone, without oxygen. The NKorean man did it in under 4 minutes. And two of those minutes were just them taking selfies on the summit. I’ve just watched something on Amazon about ‘influencers’ dying for having stupid pictures taken at places they had no possible way of experiencing. Considering they all ended up dead, that’s almost Darwinian. Kill the stupid. Stop making stupid people famous.

[@clara4942]

This is next on my list.

[@nicosmeets1709]

I never read "into thin air", but being Belgian and living for the past 39 years near Mt. Everest, I knew all famous mountaineers. I had great respect for all of them, but espacially Polish and Russian mounteneers. And naturally not to forget out own Sherpas.

[@paulgrey8028]

The most important fact that has been ignored by all commentators on the 1996 Everest disaster was that both Hall and Fischer both had access to very accurate weather reports that forecast a storm for when it actually hit. Yet they still took groups of inexperienced climbers to the summit and even more baffling is how they ignored their own turnaround time knowing that a storm was imminent. David Breashears and Ed Viesters from the IMAX team, who had been receiving daily weather reports, have hid that fact and still refuse to share the truth. Fellow climber Graham Radcliff spent a few years of frustrating research getting to the truth. He was at the South Col on the 10th of May and was not even mentioned in Krakauers book. No one alerted him to the emergency. Radcliff eventually found that both the IMAX team and a Danish team had received daily weather reports. Knowing that a storm was forecast for the 10th of May is the very reason why the IMAX team abandoned their planned summit attempt on the 9th of May and turned around at Camp 3. Yet they watched both Hall and Fischers climb past them knowing that they were heading into a disaster. Even though these facts have come to light, no one in the climbing community [apart from Graham Radcliff] has bothered to correct the record.

[@RONJAE212003]

Why leave your life in others hand. Why not have your own weather notifications system? They had time to prepare for this trip. People depend on others too much. Yes there your guide but your life is your life. Not there’s to save

[@HollyCat504]

@@RONJAE212003How would they have had their own system lol? This was 1996. No cell phones, no laptops, no tablets. No WiFi. No phone service running to the mountain. Each team owned 1 satellite phone and the clients could use it for $27 a minute. But even if they would’ve called home, what could they tell them? The internet was brand new, there weren’t weather apps. Someone at a client’s home in America or New Zealand wouldn’t have access to up-to-the-minute weather reports for Nepal.

[@hudpark5]

And yet, if the fixed ropes had been installed on schedule, and they'd adhered to their turn-around times, they would have been back at Camp 4 before the storm hit, effectively taking weather out of the equation.

[@deaniacono9821]

I have read your comment; while I agree with you I need to add that Anatoli did I fact save lives and according to Fox and Beck he truly did all he could do. I’m a novelist at climbing but share the dedication o help as I can my fellow man or woman while climbing. We can only be there when it turns tragic and do what what ever we can do to save a life as best we can but blaming someone for a critical mistake without being IN A CRITICAL POSITION at that time is never fair.

[@LittleChena]

@@HollyCat504 Wrong. Sandy Pittmann had a Satellite phone and made daily call to the NBC Interactive Media. She had a Sherpa who carried her 20 pound phone up to the Summit. Mountain Madness had the opportunity to get newest weather forecast if they wanted.

[@sauronthegreat5799]

Anatoli did what many people couldn’t. He’s a hero.

[@abtk2tv991]

One of the most Bralin mountaineer i am lucky i meet him at broad peak Basecamp ❤

[@karenkartz3163]

A guide is not a servant.

[@judyo923]

This is the BEST HIGH ALT. CLIMBING CHANNEL ON KZbin! I have been waiting for an in-depth defense of one of the greatest climbers of all time, Anatoli Boukreev. I mean seriously - Boukreev was the GOAT of HA Climbers. Incredible feats of athleticism and bravery. Krakauer (who didn't go out to rescue anyone once he got back) and Messner (who wasn't there and has no problem talking out of his ass) are narcissists who use others for their own gain. As usual, your channel is the favorite for High Altitude Climbing aficionados. Thank you for this amazing and incredibly in-depth presentation about Boukreev. My two favorite climbers are Jerzy Kukuczka and Anatoli Boukreev. I mean seriously - 10 hours from the base to summit of Denali is bigger than an Everest climb - absolutely astounding. And the K2 climb without oxygen - incredibly dangerous. Losing his partners like that. His athleticism was world-class, the very best endurance in the world. You always show the reasoning, the backgrounds, the respect and the dangers of each HA climber that you present. I know this is an unpopular opinion - but I blame Rob Hall's judgement, his team was a mess. It was because Hanson didn't make it up the previous season, that Hall decided to make sure Doug made the summit on the second attempt. Doug Hanson would perhaps have made it on the third attempt - but we'll never know because Hall enabled Hanson's summit fever because Hall knew he wouldn't be able to afford a third attempt. Too bad. Hall and Hanson would be alive today if Hall would have turned him around. Boukreev wasn't even on Hall's team, but he helped them by roping their ascent when Hall's guides didn't plan it, Boukreev rescued his clients PLUS Rob Hall's clients - and he was NOT being paid by Hall. Krakauer is definitely not my favorite writer, he lies and embellishes his books out of greed and sensationalism. He falsely demonized Boukreev because he was jealous of Boukreev's incredible out-of-this-world talent and he needed a convenient villain in his book. I am thankful that you presented the truth about Boukreev. Your channel truly is a treasure.

[@epicadventurearchives]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for your feedback. Stay blessed

[@teenieneenie630]

You nailed Krakauer and Messner.

[@corkyoakes4839]

Thank you very much for this presentation. I started to learn about Anatoli after I read “into thin air”. I read “the climb” and also “above the clouds”. I realized that Jon Krakauer’s opinions could not be accurate. I learned more about the story watching your presentation. After all the years of following the story, I was surprised that there were small details I have not been aware of. Thank you.

[@seesternWHV]

RIP Anatoli 🗻 💐 🙏

[@Justicia007]

Very good video but a word on the Everest disaster..... You mentioned that Anatoli kept asking for help from other people to rescue those trapped in the storm and that no one would help. Later, you talk about how Anatoli was so exhausted when he returned from the Rescue mission that he couldn't even talk. There's absolutely no doubt that Anatoli was a hero. A superhuman climber and a hero, but I think it's fair to point out that the other clients and people who were in the tents after barely getting down, were in the same state of exhaustion that Anatoli was when he came back from the Rescue mission. They barely survived and they couldn't even talk. Anatoli was one of the best climbers in the world and an anomaly and was able to go back up in that storm (Also a guide) and he deserves all the credit for doing that. However I don't think there should be any blame placed on those who simply physically could not go back out and go back up that mountain.

[@charlottecobain6986]

I agree. However, it would have been nice if Krakauer hadn’t felt the need to disparage this man’s heroism if even in what some would consider a minor way. There was simply no need for him to do it at all.

[@johnhenry292]

@@charlottecobain6986Krakauer went full bore at Boukreev. I've always wondered whether it was spurred mostly by one of arrogance, jealousy or greed; the need to make a buck off his not so good book would still be the best look.

[@paulrupright4694]

@@johnhenry292Maybe….if you would have been there you’d have a better idea of everything going on.

[@charlottecobain6986]

@@johnhenry292 Yeah, I found it exceedingly distasteful. I’m not a huge Krakauer fan in general and find his literary prowess to be a bit overblown, but writing in the style of YA novels certainly has its payouts in popularity and revenue. Iirc he was funded/paid by National Geographic (could be it was a different publication but I think it was this one) to be on that trip to Everest and was meant to write an article about his experience. Due to the events that transpired it became a much bigger story. I think he decided at some point that his story needed a villain or a foil of sorts. It’s possible, given his age, that post-cold war sentiment/influence were part of casting Anatoli this way or simply made it an easy decision for him. I’d seen an interview with Rhinehold Messner from 2011 where he defends Krakauer in his portrayal of Anatoli and says that it was “barely a criticism” of him. I disagree with that sentiment, but that’s why I initially said that some might not consider what Krakauer did as a harsh criticism. I’m very glad that there are people telling the real story and not the one popularized by Krakauer.

[@graywelz8637]

You are correct Anatoli was the hero. Good catch. He doesn't get the credit he deserved in many of the documentaries of the '96 disaster

[@salloom1949]

Excellent narrative of the life and accomplishments of Anatoli Bookreev. Thank you so much.!! Jon Krakauer challenged Anatoli Boukreev actions in order to make a name for himself and to sell his book. I am so glad that Boukreev was not judged by Krakauer but the rest of the world around him.

[@Justicia007]

I don't think he was trying to make a name for himself in criticizing the guy. Go listen to the interview of Neil beidelman who was also a guide on that trip and a friend of anatoli's. He was critical of anatoli also as Scott Fisher had told Anatoli to wear oxygen and he refused. Doesn't make him a bad person nor was it the only factor here but it did happen that way

[@listrahtes]

Krakauers criticism was also the criticism of every other guide. Not using Oxygen is under no circumstances not a huge mistake. He never made that mistake again but did not own it back then. While Krakauer is insufferable in his self glorifying, creating drama and gossip he has legit points. I read Boukreevs book and it really is bad in terms of facts. Still Krakauer loved to throw dirt in a way that's inexcusable and I can't stand him as a writer or person. Huge phony

[@charlottecobain6986]

@@listrahtesFully agree on your insights about Krakauer as a person. I will mention that The Climb was written by a ghostwriter and that there may have been both a language barrier or certain nuances lost in translation between his retelling and the writer. Also, depending on the publishing deal there may have been some creative license taken by the ghostwriter, which isn’t a super uncommon thing to happen. Having read some of what Boukareev’s longtime partner has said, he was deeply hurt by Krakauer’s disparagements and since Krakauer was first to widely publish both articles and his book there was a period of time wherein only the Krakauer narrative was out in the world. Anatoli received some professional backlash in that time in addition to the personal hurt that was caused. I think it was largely unnecessary for Krakauer to have created such a negative scenario and I don’t believe he’s ever made any effort to soften his critiques. Not that it matters much since Anatoli has been dead nearly 2 decades, but it is unfortunate that Krakauer’s rhetoric will reign supreme since his book is arguably the most famous account and one a majority of people will read when looking into the subject.

[@rodneysmith9177]

Krakauer was there as a journalist. He was there working for Outside. Was he not supposed to write about it? I have never seen one substantive case where he deliberately mistated the facts. As Reinhold Messner said: "He did his job". If the facts make some people uncomfortable, that's not his problem.

[@rodneysmith9177]

@@charlottecobain6986 The Climb was a self-serving joke full inaccuracies.

[@havasuDon]

I know very little about mountain climbing and experienced altitude sickness twice climbing (walking) up Mt Whitney but Anatoli sounds like an awesome guy if not a miracle of humanity and an example to others. RIP good man

[@nicke.3536]

Thx a lot for video about Anatoli.

[@jeffricardo1135]

An amazing and very well done documentary, thank you. Mr Anatoli was an amazing mountaineer and person. I am perplexed how anyone could question what he did on Everest in 1996. It's obvious he new exactly what he was doing descending to camp 4 early, to conserve his energy for the disaster to come. Climbing back 3 times after summiting Everest, performing 3 rescues at 8400m plus to save 3 climbers their lives. And still after all this and remaining another night at altitude and ascending the next day number 2, going to help Scott Fischer. Abviosly the greatest rescue and rescue attempt so far in the history of Everest. And he risked his own life 4 times for others. It amazes me that any intelligent and comprehensive individual would ever communicate critically or poorly what Anatoli did. It is tragic the mountains took his life for he deserved so much more, but perhaps he was just to wonderful of a person to continue living amidst unappreciative mortals. May the gods be carrying his soul for those who are chosen to accompany him in his and their after life.

[@blt4085]

very well said thank you!

[@jeffricardo1135]

@@blt4085 thank you

[@rodneysmith9177]

If take the emotion out of it and look at how the whole tragedy unfolded, the real unsung hero was Beidlman. He made the crtical decision to get the MM people down instead of waiting for Fisher. If he had not done, or delayed another 30 minutes, Antolini's heroics, and they were heroic, would never have happened.

[@jennagreene2553]

And Mike Groom

[@BarneeFife]

Agree 100%. Beidleman didn’t get the cred he deserved….. he and Anatoli were saviors supreme… RIP Anatoli.

[@andmoreagain7]

Who is Antolini?

[@laurasalo6160]

​@@andmoreagain7Anatoli Boukreev is the Russian.

[@laurasalo6160]

​@@BarneeFifesame. Neal B. is a forgotten hero, i definitely agree. He is a phenomenal athlete (ultra-marathons, crazy ski descents, etc) and extremely strong and gentle, generous of spirit, and humble too. Much respect for he and Anatoli.

[@gregorylumpkin2128]

I don't know if this is a storm in a tea cup or something serious, like the massive storm that smashed Everest on the day of their descent. I can understand Krakauer's point of view, but in my humble opinion it's a double-edged sword. Yes, on the descent Anatoli hurried down to the Balcony way ahead of the others but later he also risked his life to save the group of stranded climbers. And he succeeded in bringing most of them back. He seemed to be a loner with a heart of gold. Rest in peace.

[@bethewalt7385]

*are you thinking of "tempest in a teapot" I'm not familiar with "storm in a teacup" what are the origins?

[@vincevonderheyden7887]

@@bethewalt7385 Use the meaning of the words and your imagination and it will fit....very simple...

[@barryiverson6899]

Very well done, a hero not forgotten

[@myareigns3505]

The best climber ever! Loyal to the mountains to the very end.

[@rocketscienceinstituteinc8993]

A five-star production. Excellent in every way. Thank you!

[@bag-san8592]

I almost finished Krakpot's book but gave it away because he struck me as a sneering little sniveller who was obsessed with bodily fluid. I was particularly annoyed at his criticism of Boukreev. He was asleep whilst Anatoli was risking his own life to save others.

[@MrDannyboyhall]

Jon actually stated in later prints of his book that he had been overly harsh regarding Anatoli and they actually did speak about what Jon had said they didn’t see eye to eye about it but they had agreed to get together and talk about it again in future unfortunately Anatoli would be dead soon after Jon has stated that it is a major regret that he didn’t get the chance to properly make amends for it and has stated that Anatoli was indeed a hero for what he did

[@cathylarkins9949]

Yes you re right..Anatoli was a hero…Krack is a coward

[@ceridabrown3350]

Anatoli deserves all the respect in the world. He was a talented mountaineer and the strongest climber in that group. I agree that krakauer while I enjoyed the book itself he was entirely unfair and judgemental about Anatoli and his reasoning for doing things. John wasn’t even an experienced mountaineer himself yet felt the need to judge one. This was pure old fashioned jealousy and pettiness he should be ashamed for the way he spoke about Anatoli I hope he regrets it and is embarrassed now

[@MrDannyboyhall]

@@ceridabrown3350 Jon wasn’t a high altitude mountaineer but had been climbing for a very long time actually he had never been on an 8000er before and yes he was very harsh about Anatoli but so were many others ed viesturs has said anatoli shouldn’t have guided on Everest without 0’s and he does know something about high altitude climbing Anatoli saved lives and deserves to be applauded for that he was a hero but because he chose not to use 0’s he went on way ahead of the group on ascent and descent something guides shouldn’t do so Jon was not entirely wrong and as I have mentioned in this thread he has amended his book in later prints to say he wishes he wasn’t so harsh on Anatoli it’s one of his biggest regrets

[@zromo8994]

Shoulda burned it

[@JuanPublo2023]

Rest in peace Anatoly 🙏❤️

[@stevekinlough588]

Thank you EAA for this great doc on Antatoli.

[@Trish.Norman]

You did an awesome job on this video. Anatoli Boukreev would be honored.

[@kevinkral4568]

I'm using this opportunity to invite all who are here for the first time to subscribe to and follow this channel. Factual information abounds, but this channel's host speaks with a spell-caster's charm and incantatory narrative skills. Regards, Kev ps. To our host: please don't change a thing (although more detailed route photos would be cool) and please keep 'em coming. You're a jewel, a gemstone. -K.

[@epicadventurearchives]

Thanks for your message Kevin. Stay blessed

[@zephyrfpv9871]

I don't have enough words to say thank you. Great job!

[@julleehh3991]

Salute to Boukreev, true Hero 🫶🫶🫶

[@Diwana71]

🙏 Thanks for this great biographical documentary on Andrei Bourkeev.

[@wrbowcalifyrobertson5087]

Very well done. I wanted to see if you mentioned how just how tough this guy was and you did at the start.

[@cemrebirand8360]

What a great tribute to one of the world’s astonishing mountaineer!

[@fedorpravov5372]

Before the Jon Krakauer's book became an International Best Seller, Jon did a live presentation in Boulder, Colorado June 1, 1997. It ran on public television in the Boulder area in heavy rotation in the late 90s. The PBS station cut it off early and then promptly removed it from their schedule. Luckily the one copy survived and it was transferred from an old VHS tape and was posted on KZbin by David Snow as "Jon Krakauer · Into Thin Air · 1996 Everest Disaster Presentation". What has surprised and amazed me in this great presentation Krakauer admires Boukreev actions and calls Anatoli's efforts heroic. This Krakauer's story sounds very true and honest. Actually it matches Bukreev's himself comments on this event. But for some reason in his "Into Thin Air" Krakauer suddenly changes his minds and creates weird negative comments on Boukreev. It made very upset Anatoli and his American friends who helped him to prepare and publish his book "Climb".

[@DavidJones-ey6ie]

Boukreev is one of the greatest climbers who ever lived, maybe the best.

[@evangelinewandering9547]

Thank you for a fascinating walk through of the 1996 disaster, and portrait of Boukreev. To me, the disaster is a tragic example of why commercial mountain tourism should be banned. There are so many bucket list tourists, with enough money, who should never be in a place like Mount Everest, regardless of how good the guides themselves may be. A good example is the New York socialite, whose _satellite phone_ had to be carried by a Sherpa and she was even short-roped by a Sherpa in order to get up... 🤦🏻‍♀️ If people cannot carry their stuff themselves and climb the mountain themselves/alone, or in the company of a climber friend or a Sherpa (as in 1 Sherpa), they have no business being there. Personally, I don’t think the cruising altitude of pressurised airplanes is a place to be for anyone, but if people absolutely have to go there, they should at least be skilled enough and competent enough to do it without the help of a whole team and without having to be carried there. Boukreev should be the measure, the example of skill level, for anyone wanting to climb Everest, and similar peaks. If they are not on his level, or close - stay home or climb a peak more suited to their skills.

[@paulgrey8028]

Few climbers could meet that standard. Boukreev was amongst climbings elite. A more realistic standard would be that Nepalese authorities set a requirement for climbers to prove themselves on several lower Nepalese summits, including at least one high altitude summit [of say 24,000 feet] before qualifying for an Everest permit. That would create more income for Nepal, more employment opportunities for Sherpa and it would dramatically cut back on the numbers of climbers on Everest. It's insane how many Everest clients are so inexperienced and unfit these days, many of whom have practically zero climbing experience.

[@rickp3753]

I've read all their books. Even Beck. I'll bet the publishers are very pleased with the exaggerated "words" between them. Any publicity is good, but a fight gets readers.

[@rodneysmith9177]

It was totally overblown.

[@Gen-yh1jz]

Hero forever.

[@spibase83]

Anatoli the Best !!! R.I.P 🏔🌟

[@alexandros8361]

Thank you for this. It's a more rounded version of the many accounts. Apparently it was known that a huge storm was coming. But who knew exactly? Why would both the leaders still try to summit late if they knew that? Did Anatoli know? It would explain his brief summit time. Because if I recall correctly, researchers now claim that the already low, partial pressure of oxygen is decreased by another 13% in a low pressure storm. Which could explain (along with wind, cold, dark, exhaustion, loss of fixed ropes etc) why all of them (except Anatoli) were in such trouble when they ran out of bottled oxygen.

[@danglybit1]

Just another level!..loved the surgeon analogy!...

[@vincentfernandez7328]

very well explained much better than the movie.

[@pistol9590]

Hes not called the angel of everest for no reason real climbers know what he did was an act of pure unselfishness and noone else had that that day ❤

[@WienGolf]

I appreciate each of your videos, but this is a masterpiece! Great research of details, most interesting facts and a tasteful description of fates and disasters. I widely agree with your interpretation of the reasons of the catastrophe of 1996. The injury and death of so many people that day has many reasons, it’s very simpleminded to blame only Mr. Boukreev as Mr. Krakauer did. But apart from all that, it was very inspiring to listen to many facts about the whole life of this great climber.

[@cattymajiv]

I read the book and article by Krakaur, and although he did unfairly attack Boukreev, he did not blame only Anatoly, or claim it was the only reason for the disaster. He went on at great length describing the many mistakes made by many people, and in so many words he aknowledged that the best laid plans of mountaineers can and do go wrong, especially when bad weather is involved. He aknowledged that possibly nobody would have died if the storm had not blown up. But that said, he also aknowleged that there was a TON of very grievous mistakes made by many people, each 1 of which could cause death all by itself. He was grossly unfair to Anatoly, who I think saved lives on K2 as well, but he did not solely blame him.

[@DavidJones-ey6ie]

Boukeerev is a hero of all time. What a man. Krakauer is ridiculous.

[@cattymajiv]

Thanks so much for this excellent video showing what a great climber and man he was! ❤❤❤

[@anniehills3580]

IMO, he is a hero❤🎉 I thought Scott should not have taken down the guy who fell sick. He could have waited a few hours while Scott helped others. He could have helped him when they were all back down to him.

[@stevekinlough588]

When I read Into Thin Air, I could not understand the relationship with the Author and Anatoli. John K almost never mentions him in positive terms. So, I went out and bought the climb, however, Anatoli was not in attack mode. Anatoli is an absolute legend, not to mention the 1996 Everest drama. John K and other folk stayed in the tents and Anatoli went out to look for people, not client, but for people who needed help. A True mountaineer and a legend. Also, people who are paying to climb Everest should be banned. WB Yeats once said, A Terrible beauty.

[@michaeldonohue1957]

Can’t Boukreev be both - a hero who made an astonishing rescue and also a guide who to a certain extent f**ked up in his role to responsibly get his clients up and down the Everest safely? If you had read Into Thin Air, that’s all Krakour was saying in his criticism of Anatoli…

[@82566]

Thank you for this video .

[@yandenuts]

Thank you for educating me.

[@keithireland6627]

Brilliant thankyou.

[@makaranddeshpande9990]

Superb episode

[@lynboyes6256]

Great video! A very unbiased account! I believe that Anatoli Boukreev was then and still remains a true hero in the midst of a horrific tragedy…he did more than any other to help whomever❤ he could get off that mountain. Krakauer is a whiny, pathetic excuse for a human being who wanted to make a few bucks by spewing his drivel rather than admit just how little he did to help his fellow mountaineers….RIP Anatoli Boukreev ! YOU ARE THE REAL HERO to arise from the blizzard and give your all to help anyone from any team the badly needed aid. Your brilliant spirit is truly missed ❤️

[@albertschulz5575]

Awesome video, thank you. Learned a few new things. You should have a lot more likes.

[@epicadventurearchives]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kiwihapgar]

Thank you for making this video. Thoroughly enjoyed it

[@epicadventurearchives]

Our pleasure!

[@joanpascal7745]

this has been a very informative video n story! the best yet!!! thanks.

[@82566]

Agree 😊 it's a treat to find an actual good,informative video on climbing legends

[@maxrav1831]

Really enjoyed that. 👍

[@epicadventurearchives]

Thanks 👍

[@j.m.2022]

From everything I've read and watched, one overlooked fact seems to be that, at no time, did Boukreev seem to be suffering signs of altitude sickness, HACE or HAPE. This alone tells me that he did not need it to climb or to effectively guide on the mountain. Had he been using oxygen, he would not have been able to give the bottle he was carrying to Beidleman (who also saved lives that day and survived himself). This also means that there should have been two more cached bottles of oxygen available to the descending clients than would have been available had Boukreev been using oxygen (although The Climb inidicates that only one full bottle and one partially full bottle were found by Beidleman when he reached the cache). Having Boukreev use oxygen would have only exacerbated the shortage of it overall. It also seems to me to be purely wild speculation to assume that Boukreev, had he been using oxygen, would have slowed his descent in order to stay with Beidleman and the clients with him. I think it is far more likely that Boukreev would have still descended quickly, since his thinking was about getting rested in order to possibly launch a rescue later, if necessary - and it was already apparent when that decision was made that there were going to be a number of climbers on the mountain far later that they should have been (making the need for a later rescue from Camp IV more and more likely). A more major issue than his not using oxygen was the fact that Boukreev did not have a radio. IMO, no one should be expected to effectively guide such an expedition without having reliable communications with the expedition leaders, all the other guides on the mountain, the sherpas, and base camp. If Beidleman and Boukreev both had radios, Beidleman would have been able to relay his location to Boukreev at Camp IV the moment the skies cleared enough for him to have determined where he and "the huddle" were on the mountain.

[@paulgrey8028]

Not using supplemental oxygen while guiding was a serious lapse of judgement by Boukreev and Fisher [who knew in early April that Anatoli intended to guide without gas] It is a guides duty to stay with his clients. Anatoli was trying to make a point that he took too far [that clients who needed to be mollycoddled should not be on Everest, something to which I totally agree] The very next year Boukreev guided an Indonesian team on Everest where he used supplemental oxygen above the South Col. Regarding the radios; it's totally baffling why neither guide, Boukreev nor Beidelman, were not supplied with a radio that one would reasonably presume was essential equipment.

[@j.m.2022]

However, I would say it was Hall who didn't fulfill his duty to stay with his clients. He stayed on the summit too long because he failed to turn one of his clients around. Boukreev and Beidleman had no guiding duty to stay with Hall's clients. Fischer's clients all made it down. @@paulgrey8028

[@thecook8964]

Many have climbed Everest, very few with empathy for his fellow climbers.

[@itsallspent]

Thanks for this video. It answered most of my questions about 1996 event

[@epicadventurearchives]

Glad it was helpful!

[@fergalohearga9594]

Really nicely done, I had expected to watch for five minutes and ended up watching the whole thing, thankfully. I'm still a bit ambivalent about what happened on the 1996 expedition ... there is no doubt that Boukreev was an outstanding, strong and selfless climber but there was perhaps a bit of hubris or something that impacted what he did on that day. It is impossible at this remove to know, but in any event I don't think it fair to blame the catastrophe on Boukreev, nor do I think it fair to label Krakauer as a whingy loser either.

[@junioradult6219]

Read multiple accounts from the other members and you will see krakauer makes more the a few questionable statements in his book, at times seems like hes full on lying

[@UAPReportingCenter]

Legend

[@avgeek-and-fashion]

Great docu! Thanks !!

[@davewolfe5169]

Thank you very much

[@paulrupright4694]

R.I.P. Charlotte Fox. (2018)

[@LittleChena]

I bought Anatolis book in 1997 and it’s still one of my all time favorite books. I deeply dislike Krakauer!!! Not only for the comments he made about Anatoli. No, he wrote “Into the Wild”. A fictional piece about an unstable man who came to Alaska to live of the lands and starved to death. Krakauer used the 200 words (not sentences) Chris MacCandless left behind to create a biographical view of that Guy and the whole world thought, that the real story and went crazy about it. I live in Alaska and the tourists came, every year to see the “bus”, where McCandless died. Unfortunately they had to cross a very fast and damn cold river to go there. So we had a lot of rescue cases. Our rescue people had to go out there, in the middle of nowhere! People died or often got scarred for life! We have very limited rescue personal. It’s Alaska and we are not many here. We dried to educate but no results. Year after year we had incidents. A few years ago the government removed the bus to Fairbanks, an attempt to stop the tourists. It was extremely expensive but it’s done. Krakauer made millions with that book, always selling it as a true story. He never gave a shit about the people who died in that river, because of his fictional story! Many people here in Alaska dislike him as well! Thank you for the video!

[@rodneysmith9177]

It's not reasonable to blame Krakauer for tourists putting themselves in danger. Anymore than it's unreasonable to blame those who write about Everest for climbers that die there. You said yourself you tired to warn them. They didn't listen. No one's blaming you for that.

[@LittleChena]

@@rodneysmith9177 But when they use their InReach to report a emergency, rescue has to respond. Doesn’t matter if the weather is brutal, we have ranging wildfires and other stuff to deal with. It takes hours and lot of personal to get there, taking resources away. A few years ago there was a group of Japanese who wanted to visit the bus, in tennis shoes, in freezing cold snowy weather. They called, a few of them couldn’t walk because their feet were frost bitten. A couple wanted to go there during their honeymoon. The river was full, after break up, ice cold and with a strong current. They tried to go through. She died! For what??? A fictional story! For a place that is not even pretty! Just tundra and some hills! Krakauer created a story and told people, that‘s the real deal. Made Chris a hero! People wanted to see the place where a free spirit lived his best life! Killed a moose and let it go bad! Broke into a hunting cabin, destroyed the furniture and stole all the food. Krakauer didn’t tell that. Wouldn’t be good for the Image of a hero!!! He never commented on all the accidents. He never showed any interest or empathy!! But he was almost frantic to proof that Chris died of poisoning. No, he didn’t. He starved to death, because he had no clue to survive here. You can’t live of the land without any knowledge or being prepared! Yes, he not responsible for people who died out there but he created Chris! He created the reason why people wanted to go out there and I deeply dislike that!

[@reecegunningham]

He was a hero on that day in 1996. People say he was irresponsible to not use bottled oxygen because it meant that he could not wait at the summit for the clients due to getting colder faster but I think the clients and guides who allow bottled oxygen are irresponsible and shouldn’t be there

[@awkwardautistic]

I really enjoyed this story ❤

[@epicadventurearchives]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@cattymajiv]

@@epicadventurearchives I thought it was on K2 that Anatoly was swept away by an avalanche. I read that was how he died in a book 20 years ago. And around the same time, I read a book about a disaster on K2. So in my memory it was just 1 book, the one about K2, that described his death. But it could have been 2 different books. Because your film is so well researched, I will take your word for it, at least for now, that he died on Annapurna. Few films on mountaineering are as well researched as this 1 of yours. Thank you!

[@user-vl8mr7si1x]

@@epicadventurearchives ддддд

[@epicadventurearchives]

Thanks for your reply. Anatoli was died on Annapurna not on K2.

[@DianeHasHopeInChrist]

Wow.....beautifully done story! I loved it! Thank you for the hard work you put into this video. I think Jon Krakauer was jealous of Anatoli. It seems that way to me.😊

[@awkwardautistic]

Absolutely! That's what I think too.

[@judyo923]

Yes, I totally agree that Krakauer needed a villain - and Anatoli, who was poor, didn't speak English and was Russian - fit the bill. What a cheap shot by Krakauer. Classist.

[@johnstanlake1399]

@@judyo923 I don't think so. Bourkeev was being arrogant. As a guide he should've done everything to be in peak condition to help his team. If he was climbing alone, fine, don't take oxygen, but when other people's lives are in your hands, your responsibility is to them. It seems like Bourkeev was happy to take the money, but didn't want the responsibility.

[@judyo923]

@@johnstanlake1399 I disagree. There were guides WITH OXYGEN who did NOT go out again after they had climbed the peak even though they knew their team members were out there dying. Boukreev climbed the peak, descended AND THEN went out not ONCE - but TWICE into the jaws of that storm to rescue people on his team and on OTHER TEAMS. He MORE THAN accepted his responsibility - he OUTDID EVERYONE ON THAT MOUNTAIN THAT NIGHT.

[@johnstanlake1399]

@@judyo923 Maybe he could've helped prevent certain struggles with oxygen...

[@tgfbando2413]

Are they actually pictures of them all during the summit because that’s the first I’m seeing the pictures

[@vindictivetiger3958]

When it comes to Krakauer, the saying "the guilty always make the most noise" comes to mind. He refused to go out and rescue those people and he had no excuse, so f him. The fact remains: Hall and Fisher were derelict in their duties at every turn. They made boneheaded decisions that cost people their lives. Doug Hansen didn't pay enough for it to include killing Hall--I'm sorry, but no one climbing is entitled to someone else forfeiting their lives for their dream. Especially when Hall & Fisher knew a powerful storm system was heading their way. Storms that big just don't materialize on your doorstep in 2 hours. Anatoly is the ONLY hero of this tragic tale. He's one of the few who you can count on one hand who followed proper protocol and respected the mountain. Anatoly was the ONLY one who trained on how to get back down the mountain. None of the rest of them did. They only trained to summit.

[@laurasalo6160]

And Neal Beidleman too.

[@ericastier1646]

Anatoli Boukreev was a superhuman mountaineer and a hero. He was attacked by a little viper which deserves only despise, the post cold war era and the profile of that crack informs the mud rolling attempt.

[@hudpark5]

He abandoned his clients during a climb as a GUIDE.

[@ericastier1646]

@@hudpark5 Negative, a guide can only tell a client when he must renounce and climb down, it is not is duty to die later with the client when his orders were ignored. And that is the common story.

[@nedialkosimonov3893]

​@@hudpark5, in the end , all his clients is alive 😂😂😂. Search some other point 😂😂😂😂

[@hudpark5]

@@ericastier1646yeah there is room for nuance between those extremes, such as staying within the vicinity of those you are supposed to be guiding, in case they need help or GUIDANCE with something.

[@hudpark5]

@@nedialkosimonov3893 yes, so if nothing else, he did have that going for him.😂😂😂

[@cathylarkins9949]

Anatoli was a Great man and mountaineer….he saved 6 people in 1996 on Everest…as far as Krack’s book….a journalistic hack and in denial of his failure to help in 1996…he tries to throw his quilt off on Anatoli….

[@rodneysmith9177]

He saved Fox and Pittman. Not six. Neil and Mike Groom where the ones that got "The Huddle" down. Get your facts straight.

[@JJ1_782]

Just need to play it on fast speed the narration is too slow

[@missJolie85]

The harsh climate does age you fast, Anatoli Boukreev looks way older than 39 at the time of his death.

[@berits.2346]

Exposure to high altitude sunlight does that to you, too.

[@missJolie85]

@@berits.2346 Well that goes under harsh climate.

[@cattymajiv]

@@berits.2346 So does stress. People I know were stunned how fast I aged from a pretty girl to an old hag in less than 10 years of being married to a nutcase.

[@junioradult6219]

Ive seen 30 year olds that dang look 45 to 50. Harshest climate they were in was there living room😂

[@missJolie85]

@@junioradult6219 Yeah, well they probably drink, smoke and eat unhealthy and hardly move so.

[@anniehills3580]

Would like to see his lungs!! How could he climb free of O2?

[@christinecallahan5512]

Anatoly is a R E A L HERO..........

[@brewcrew5854]

i guess it all comes down to almighty coin paying people need to summit i guess similar to a fishing charter trip capt must find fish even maybe less then safe waters/conditions to hope for return business . i wonder how much satisfaction is achieved if a person obtains goal of summit but with substantial assistance of staff ? i was the 1 thousandth like ! cool !!!

[@kevinahern7818]

GOD"S SPEED Anatoli Boukreev !!! krakauer, will forever be the man who would do nothing.

[@marshalljimduncan]

Krakauer would do nothing, along with everyone else, including the south African team. Krakauer wasn't a guide or a Sherpa, he was a client. Did any other clients do anything?

[@sikandarrana6377]

Anatoli called Krakauer’s called bs and cowardice and not being a team player, while enjoying the benefits of different teams had to offer. History will remember Anatoli and Krakauer will fade away.

[@rodneysmith9177]

He is and continues to be a best selling author. Hardly fading away. That's because he is an excellent writer and researcher.

[@sikandarrana6377]

@@rodneysmith9177 He is all that and a bag of potato chips, and no one is denying his credentials. My point is that he won’t be remembered in the annals of mountaineering as a climber and Anatoli will always be remembered as one of the toughest climber. Best selling author doesn’t necessarily mean that you are the best researcher or you have written magnum opus or you have anything worth while to say. It simply means that ordinary public pays money to read and we both Know how much ordinary public is knowledgeable . I remember Harold Robbins or Jackie Collins to be best selling at one point in our US of A.

[@assrammington7961]

@@rodneysmith9177he’s a pimp, a hustler and having a way with words doesn’t make you any less of a slimy weasel. Just like being an excellent propaganda film maker doesn’t make you any less of a propagandist. People need to realize just because authors are brilliant with words doesn’t make them noble. Many terrible human beings are great writers. It’s neither here nor there. Anatoli is pure and Krakauer is slime. And that’s how history will ultimately remember them

[@mykofreder1682]

Krakauer didn't dislike him, he used him because heroes and villains sell books. Russian villain and Ausi/English speaker hero is a natural, dying and a parallel of dying in war makes hero. The real facts are the Ausis were doing it for money, they alone were responsible for the clients and any deaths, they were not in the physical condition for that responsibility, it borders on gross negligence and high danger and grossly negligent frequently results in death (consider a charter pilot) and no one considers such people heroes. Boukreev was a hired hand and broke the trail for the group, he mistakenly thought the Ausis were competent group leaders and left tending to the client to them. The Ausis had an opportunity when they met him on his decent to admit defeat, tell him me and my group are in deep shit let's get back to base camp right now, you sweep the rear or lead some back. In short, he didn't think they would screw up so badly, the leaders never admitted they screwed up till the collapsed, and the clients paid the price, Boukreev was probably surprised and shocked and did what he could. About the only positive thing that came from the hit piece is the book Climb.

[@BlackbirdArtandDesign]

It was an American and a New Zealander. They were the first tour groups. Both were very experienced.

[@cattymajiv]

@@BlackbirdArtandDesign And ultimately very incompetent, but yes, they were not Australian.

[@johnkemp4922]

A.Boukreev was a Legend of the Mountains, What he did on Everest in 96 was unbelievable. A man of Courage not like that American Arsehole who wrote his Book into thin Air , how dare he Criticise AB , RIP on the slopes of Annapurna ❤️

[@Daisy-tp2vu]

How churlish of Krakauer. He stayed snug in his sleeping bag, refusing to help Boukreev in his search - then has the gall to badmouth him, maybe to compensate for his own cowardice. Everyone knew that Boukreev eschewed the use of supplemental oxygen, maverick that he was. I don't necessarily blame Krakauer for his reticence and sense of self-preservation, but he should've shut it. He's not fit to mention Boukreev's name - whose bravery and accomplishments are without peer.

[@allanfrederick8705]

Krakauer said he was a hero, and did an amazing thing. He just criticized some of his choices. In what world is that churlish. That is a statement, not a question.

[@nedialkosimonov3893]

​@@allanfrederick8705, Boukreev external choice , cant remember Fisher or other guid hire him to help 2-3 ppl . After all mess , that man save all 3 ppls life.

[@jeremeymiller3406]

Exactly. Let’s also not forget that anatoli was being paid well to act as a GUIDE him going back out multiple times to save those helpless people is no doubt an act of heroism I’m not taking that away from him and neither was Jon. But because of his decision to climb without oxygen he was likely forced to move very quickly on his descent which is why he was traveling light. If he’d been on oxygen and was able to help people descend like a paid guide should then it’s possible that none of them would’ve gotten lost in the first place a guide should always have a pack with extra supplies but again because he wasn’t on oxygen he likely didn’t want the extra wait. I have to agree with Jon it makes no logical sense his explanation for descending so rapidly without helping anyone I wouldn’t be surprised if he went back out because he felt guilty about skipping ahead of both expeditions without helping anyone on his way down you don’t pay guides to get you to the summit you pay them to get you back down safely.

[@nedialkosimonov3893]

@@jeremeymiller3406 he was payed to take care only for 3 people in this group . All 3 survived because of him.

[@acleanpairofsocks]

Jon’s choice to stay in was the right one. You have to remember that everyone was in terrible shape, and if he had tried to go back out he would have made himself a liability and very likely would have died. That’s why Anatoli’s actions at that part are so praised, bc it was a nearly impossible feat. Anatoli was incredibly brave, but that doesn’t make everyone else cowards in the least. If your body won’t move, it won’t move.

[@LA_Viking]

Krakauer isn't fit to carry Boukreev's crampons. Amazing how a wannabe who can write can impact the career of a real mountaineer.

[@phillipjohnson4259]

A HERO

[@johnhenry292]

Boukreev was a hero, best described by the actions of Linda Wiley and the words of Simone Moro. Krakauer will be remembered for his arrogance, jealousy and greed.

[@elinagoette]

Спасибо, за то, что помните!!!

[@johnbarroll1120]

wonderful story

[@tdurb0]

His book is awesome. And if it was a toss-up whether I believe Anatoli or Krakauer’s account, I believe the mountaineer over the journalist every single time. Krakauer is part of the Everest problem. And it’s cheap to have digs at a man no longer able to defend himself. Krakauer is an easy-to-dislike man. What he seemed to expect Anatoli to do would be physically impossible for any living person. He saved lives that night, at his own risk. Krakauer talks about things he doesn’t have the full understanding of. Edit: to say thanks for the upload 👍🏻

[@rodneysmith9177]

He understood things very well. He was there. Neither you, nor I, nor anyone else in these comments was.

[@juniper617]

Denali and Mount McKinley are different names for the same mountain in Alaska. Traditionally it was always Denali. The US, in fairly typical colonialist fashion, officially renamed it Mount McKinley after the then-President. In the 21st century, under President Obama, it was officially changed back to its original name, Denali. It’s odd that you mentioned them as if they were different mountains.

[@rickwrites2612]

I always wondered if Krakauers own sense of guilt led him to emphasize Boukreev's early-on liberal guiding style, over his going out alone in a storm in the death zone and saving multiple other ppl. Boukreev IS the true hero of the 1996 disaster. Beidleman is up there too. His decision to not wait for leaders was more subtle but still heroic. Yet I do think its ok and maybe even important to raise the question , "Is it wise for pro paid guides to guide new clients while not wearing oxygen themselves?" Its even not insane to think"Wow, Boukreev was so capable in the shit, why couldnt he have stopped it from even happening (thus sparing me the guilt i feel) ? Its a bit dumb but not wrong to ask "Among all the stochastic forxes and other humans errors that compounded, is it *possible* that if Boukreev had a less laissez faire/hands off guiding style in the very beginning, could he have prevented any of it?" BUT we must remember,it is precisely *because* of Boukreevs heroics in preventing 2 or 3 deaths at the last hour in an act of superthuman strength that ALLOWS us the opportunity to ask this question. More importantly, *just because someone is stronger than everyone else does not mean they are apportioned an unequal part of responsibility for forseeing others errors.* AND Even if hand-holding on Boukreevs part from the start couldve prevented some death, *it does not follow that he bears ANY responsibility.* If I could prevent my daughters death in most cases by continuing to carry her slung on my back in a snugi til she is 18, but instead stop carrying her after age 4, and then at age 17 when not with me she trips and falls into traffic and dies...do I bear ANY responsibility for her death? He pulled more than his weight as a guide simply by the fact he saved 2 ppl and himself. Other guides, the leaders of 2 companies, died themselves. Krakauer barely saved himself and his confusion contributed to unintentional misinformation that seemed to pretty directly lead to a death. I can imagine he is self absorbed enough to assume everyone who survived felt as collectively guilty as he did. But if anyone had a reason NOT to, it was Boukreev.

[@amitabha1022]

What of the 3 climbers Anatoli rescued? They owe him their lives. Did they ever properly and publicly acknowledge his super human courageous efforts to counter Into Thin Air erroneous depiction of the events?

[@cattymajiv]

Beck Weathers was also a hero in a different way, and even after being left for dead THREE TIMES, he didn't blame anyone, and he spoke very well of Anatoly. As far as I know he still does.

[@joseywales898]

'Well Anatoli was a person that had the right to climb Everest in my book. And maybe being on oxygen didn't agree with him and maybe it made him feel sick . The dude is the only one walking around in those big mountains all the time with out oxygen bottle . Not every one is built the same , This guy was the real deal climber . hard core " not soft as some were.

[@fredericnicholson80]

great summary! I love John Krakauer's "into thin air" The book does not describe Anatoli as a vilan. He describes the difference between european/American guiding culture and russian guiding culture and the fact that Anatoli was clearly folling the russian version. the 2 commerical expeditions expected american guiding This is problem with the setup from the start. It is interesting to compare Simone's assessment with Reinhold Messner. (First man to Everest without oxygen). During my climbing days I have witnessed Reinhold as a guide; he picked the fittest customers, but he stayed with them all the time. The question of using oxygen is connected with the obligation to stay with your customers. Going without oxygen forces you to go your own speed, and for a superhuman like Anatoli this is faster than the rest. You cannot slow down and provide help to your customers the moment they need it. Note that sometime the help is to tell them to turn around, you will not make it alive today. But this again is a difference between American and russian guiding culture.

[@inatara536]

He stored some oxygen bottles on certain places between camp 4 and summit in case he or someone else needed them. He was one of three guides and on his way down anyone who felt being too weak or too late could join him descending - that was his idea. But no one did, everyone kept going up evenhough they were already very late. Anatoli cannot be blamed for their wrong decision!

[@stayclean777]

Reinhold Messner disagrees with the Krakauer slanderers.

[@junioradult6219]

Yea well things coming to light lately with him who cares. Plus if you read all the accounts you would disagree also

[@tracyyarbrough3358]

Anatoli Boukreev was a hero. I don’t think anyone really believed Krackhore’s story. I feel badly that Rob Hall died. Rob Hall should’ve gone down without Doug if he had to. There was no way that Doug was up to the challenge and there was no chance he’d be able to survive the descent. Hall was trying to climb up and back down with Doug’s dead weight clinging to him. Doug was selfish to put Hall in that position. I don’t think Doug was capable of making good decisions by that point. I’m sorry that Scott Fisher died. The teams were let down mainly by lack of ropes at the top. It costs lives when the climbers had to set the ropes themselves. Scott Hall should not have allowed the expedition at all considering the weather that was moving in. Lots of mistakes and issues contributed to the deaths of so many.

[@rodneysmith9177]

Doug had wanted to turn back ealier in the day. He had a conversation with Hall that nobody heard and then continued. It's not unreasonable to believe Hall encouraged him to go on. The real issue was, as you say, the ropes weren't set and they did not follow the turn around times. Plenty of blame to go around on the latter.

[@junioradult6219]

​​@@rodneysmith9177 if he had to be carried down the first time why did they let him back on is my question. Wouldnt that be a known risk? Dont they have to take health and fitness evaluations?

[@erictrumpler9652]

I think Krakauer's criticism of Boukreev is widely misunderstood... he clearly respected Boukreev as a mountaineer, but the role of a mountaineer and a mountain guide is not the same thing. A mountain guide has a special responsibility for his clients, which includes not leaving them alone to fend for themselves, particularly when conditions start becoming questionable. When he descended from the summit, it should have been his duty to turn around his clients and lead them to safety at the south col camp. Had he done so, more people would have survived... the group around Sandy Pitman and Beck Weathers, who were Boukreev's clients, might not have gotten lost to begin with. Krakauer cannot be faulted for staying in his tent... he was not hired as a guide...

[@ManyBeers]

Thank you for pointing those facts out. Boukreev was the first one up the mountain and the first one down and didn't care about anybody else until disaster struck. Some guide huh?

[@misarthim6538]

I think Krakauer made a mistake that he should've left the assignment of blame to someone else who wasn't personally involved in the situation (preferably no one). He himself said he was too hard on Bukreev in his Outside article that preceded Into Thin Air. Predictably it spiraled out of control. If you ever read an aircraft crash investigation report, you'd note that it's written in such way as not to assign personal blame but rather focus on the system safety improvement. That is what was desperately needed so everyone can learn with their honor and dignity intact.

[@rodneysmith9177]

@@misarthim6538 Good point. It definitely sump out of control.

[@rodneysmith9177]

I basically agree with Krakauer, but you can't really say that more people would have survived if Broukreev behaved differently. The real issues were with planning mistakes and the failure to stick to turn around times.

[@misarthim6538]

@@rodneysmith9177 Exactly - and there's a difference if you write something like - "in future, use of bottled oxygen for guides can add additional safety margin" and "people died because you didn't use bottled oxygen"

[@user-ze2vt8wc8f]

Looks like the biggest problem is taking a bunch of inexperienced climbers onto the mountain. They will very likely cause the death of others because they are likely to need rescued. Its ludicrus to have mountain climbing as a recreational activity.