Yamaha XS1100 Cafe Racer Project - Ep 13 - Fork Assembly

[@fortj3]

Out of all the times I've watched people "anneal" copper or copper alloys, either in photographic series on websites or in videos on KZbin, you are the first person I've ever seen do it correctly (heat, then quench). Everyone else I've seen do it does it like you would normalize steel (Heat and let cool in air), and CALLS it annealing. (Same thing with steel, they normalize it and call it annealing) When you've been taught the correct process, it gnaws at you, to see someone do it so incorrectly and try to pass it off as being the correct process. I salute you for doing things the right way. Still binge-watching this series on Christmas Day. Is that bad?

[@ANDY5]

You may have to look into that, it could become debilitating 😂

[@steveebee5084]

you are confident - I would put a thick towel or summat over the tank!, I also filed a round slot in the headstock recess to allow easy removal of races - gives you summat to put the drift against

[@wbw7509]

Excellent vid Andy - I'm about to do the same and fit new fork seals in my 79 XS1100 Special. I see you didn't use the dust seals .... I'm struggling to find a pair in here in UK/Ebay etc. Nobody seems to make them. Any chance you recall the make/model? Maybe they're prolific in Aus! cheers Will

[@GTsGarage]

Great vid, and all been there with the seals, they are generally an arse to fit lol

[@ANDY5]

All good now mate 😊 Engine goes into the frame this week, all things being equal

[@oozuk]

Good Video Andy, I have not pulled a set of forks apart before but i would like to have a go at upgrading the internals on my 48 at some point. Did you install upgraded springs and valving in the front to match the rear upgraded shocks or just restore it to standard specification ?

[@ANDY5]

+oozuk I just restored them Steve. I am kicking around the idea of shortening the forks and fitting new progressive rate springs but I will leave it for now. Forks this age don't have a lot of options for tweeking, and no anti dive valve. Have a go mate, they vary from bike to bike and change with technology, but if you do your research you should be right. You are a bloody mechanic after all, lol

[@rjb2009]

How did you determine how much fork tube to stick out the top of your triple clamps?

[@thetradinggoat5101]

Hey man, loving these videos great work! I have an untouched 79 xs1100 in amazing condition. I’m just starting my cafe racer project but I’m curious on the direction to go with the front end. I wanted to use a lower front end off a modern bike but I can’t seem to find anyone who’s done it or facts on which ones could best fit. Not sure if you have any knowledge of this? .. also I assume everything In That front forks etc is factory just rebuilt? Thx keep up the great work, from Canada!

[@ANDY5]

G’day mate, sorry for the late reply. Gen 1 Hayabussa front ends for with a bearing change. Also R6 Yamaha, a friend of mine has one on his XS11

[@thetradinggoat5101]

Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions ok perfect thank you very much for the reply!! Keep up the great work!

[@roythearcher]

With the fork seal, I'm surprised you didn't use the old "find a socket with a diameter slightly smaller than the seal and drift it in using light (?) taps with a hammer on the socket" method. The socket bears on the hard outer edge of the seal and providing you tap all the way round to keep it straight there should be no problem, much the same way you fitted the head bearings to the yoke! I've used this method on several sets of forks with no drama!

[@ANDY5]

+roythearcher unbeknown to me Yamaha made two different sized seals (one is 1mm bigger in diameter), guess which ones I had.

[@absolutetuber]

what did lengthening the steering stop entail?

[@ANDY5]

I fitted the clip-ons to where I wanted them and then mounted the tank. This gave me a point of reference to where the steering stop needed to be. Then I fabricated a new stop from mild steel and welded it to the steering head.