Anet A8 3D printer upgrades cura settings part2

[@satheng931]

Just wanted to say that your guides have helped me learn how to use this printer from the ground up. The documentation that comes with the printer is great for building it, but leaves you stranded with how to use it lol. I've never had a 3D printer before and by printing off some of the upgrades you recommended in your previous video i'm seeing amazing results in my prints. This video is going to help me alot with the cura settings since i'm still pretty new. Anyways, just wanted to send a big thank you and i look forward to your next videos!

[@NexiTech]

Sathen G Am so glad that I helped you with your printer! This is all about here on you tube. Share the knowledge! Thanks for comment and for positive thoughts. Take care ;)

[@NexiTech]

Hi Guys thank you all for support! Check my other videos and reviews on my channel: Here is some Tips for perfect prints: Build it perfectly. Make sure all screws are tight and belts are not loose. Check distance on side(Z axis rods holder) Use lithium grace to lubricate bearings to make them run smooth or make IGUS PLA bearings and use thin oil. Level your bed on minimal 5 places(4 corners and center ) using A4 paper. Nozzle should NOT touching heat-bed surface. Move X carrige and look for distance over whole hotbed area to make sure that nozzle is again NOT touching heat-bed. For better print sticking use Brim option in CURA or hear spray or order BuildTack. Try to find best settings in CURA. Use slow first layer 10-20mm/s Average settings are PLA 200C on nozzle Hot-Bed 55C. On ABS 230-240C on Nozzle , Heatbed 75-85c (Use brim option) Layer resolution is 0.2mm medium quality or 0.1mm to High quality Print speed are 34-55mm/s Travel speed are 45-85mm/s

[@NexiTech]

Check part 3! With new E3D V6 hot end and bowden extruder mod! kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIjYlZarnr2Ap5I

[@spudnickuk]

Thank you for your vid. I looked all over youtube and no one gave proper settings for Cura, so hence with your help I ran my first print of the extruder button upgrade and it made it perfect, first time woot woot oh I used the sample PLA that came with it. Any way No Upgrades at all on my Anet A8 just standard. So big smiles here, now I know my Anet A8 works perfectly with sample filament, I'm of to buy loads of all sorts, lol oh 2 big tips in my build, is I made sure the frame was built level/square (no slanting or wobble ) I did spray/lubricated metal bars/rods with wd40 as should not be used dry, or you will get friction. Hint if you already have built, then put some lubricant on some tissue/rag and dab onto the metal rods/bars.

[@richardjohnson8009]

wd-40 is a solvent

[@NefariousElasticity]

Thanks for making these videos man, I just ordered an Anet Prusa i3 and I can't wait to tune it and upgrade it. The prints on your channel are really fantastic quality and show what kind of results you can get with determination.

[@NexiTech]

cerg Thanks for the positive feedback man! :) Am glad you like it. Take care and good luck with your printer.

[@jgonz1997]

Very happy you followed my advice, putting something under it really helps keep it quite. Probably in the future I plan on getting some TPU filament to make some stands to make it extra quiet. I'm also thinking on changing the bearing to some copper bushings but that may need a complete redesign on the X carriage, I have heard the bushings slide a lot more quietly than the bearings. You should take a look into it. By the way I love your t-Rex I'm planing on making one my self but smaller.

[@NexiTech]

Of course mate! That was very good advice! Thanks again. TPU stands sound very interesting. Copper bushings is maybe way to go! I got to think about it. Maybe can be complicate with redesigning X carriage. We will see. Thanks mate! T-rex is looking awesome. I love it! :)

[@BruceParmele]

Great job. I have ordered the mosfet module and you have made it clear on how to install it. Thanks!

[@jasoneyes01]

Very good information! Don't forget to replace the timing belt with a reinforced type!

[@NexiTech]

Thanks! Glad you like video. Yap my belts (2GT-6mm Fiber Glass Reinforced) are on the way. I made order them two weeks ago.

[@jasoneyes01]

have you thought about bonding the acrylic with acetone or methylene chloride. May be a good upgrade? Inject grease in stepper bearings for damping? chinese bearings are usually dry.. Cork stepper motor gaskets?

[@florianfiedler3258]

I'm monitoring price and it's from 149.89 to 155.99 dollars. Current deal is here: couponsfromchina.com/2017/03/02/anet-a8-3d-printer-eu-plug-active-coupon-price-gearbest/ pretty cool kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKjRgnyrlrShmK8

[@richardjohnson8009]

I print stock with mine at 110degrees 150mms but it melted the connections to the mainboard and the hotbed, so i soldered the hotbed connections and removed more insulation from the wire and had more surface area contacting on the mainboard connection and i havent had any problems since, I print all day and night at 110 and have left it quite a few times preheating and forgot about it. Crucial upgrades for me are 1. grease the bearings(I use gluestick to stick my abs to my glass bed cover and it makes a lot of glue dust that gets in the bearings) they were super dry a little lube never hurt nobody.2 Be sure your printer is on a level surface. 3 make sure your printer is sitting flat, the frame holders(threaded rod) sometimes are on loose or if you built it on the carpet when you tightened the frame it was off level.(the mat underneath caused everything to go off on mine cause it wasnt perfectly level. caused my glass to unstick. I would recommend a more consistently flat rubber mat underneath maybe a welcome mat?) 4 lube the guide rods. 5. Lock your z limiter in place with some tape or hot glue(it works will for me it holds it just enough but if you need to move it it breaks off clean no residue) i dont get the z limiter design. CRUCIAL. 6 also crucial before you put your hotbed on MAKE SURE TO SIZE THE SPRINGS YOUR USING. I found 3 different sized springs came with my 2 anets USE THE SAME SIZE ON ALL 4 or you will have problems. CRUCIAL 7. DRILL OUT THE HOLES ON YOUR HOTBED AND YOUR HOTBED HOLDER OR THEY WILL FUCK YOUR SCREWS (big enough hole that the threads have no chance of engaging.)8. PUT A WASHER ON TOP OF THE 4 BUTTERFLY NUTS that hold the hotbed OR YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS. USE A VERY GOOD FITTING SCREWDRIVER TO LEVEL YOUR BED OR IT WILL FUCK YOUR SCREWS recommend the upgrade for these strongly. I also put a bit of lock tight blue on em after a bit of use they wear down and spin very easily.9 when leveling your bed use a piece of paper PREHEAT your bed first to allow for expansion, then when you level you have to not be putting any weight onto the screw or touching it at all then you ONLY HOLD THE THE PIECE OF PAPER AND NOT TOUCHING THE PRINTER AT ALL OR LEANING ON THE TABLE or whatever ITS ON slide the paper under the nozzle if you can do this without forcing it and you can feel the nozzle gliding over top of the paper rubbing but not pinching ITS GOOD. Check one side at a time check both side at least twice id recommend 3 times because when you adjust the other side it affects the level of the other side as well so check at least 3 times per side. ALSO BE WEARY OF BAD FILAMENT. If youre printing abs and your filament feels weak to begin with it probably is, if youre printer was working fine and you use this new filament and everything goes fucky its the filament dont waste your time, if you straighten the filament and it turns white(like stressed plastic) with little force its no good. I got ripped off on ebay abs that stunk like shit and was probably toxic so dont do that. And the butterfly nuts on the back can make contact with the frame didn't notice for a while and thought it was settings. Good entry level printer overall happy to learn what there is to learn before getting something more expensive.

[@jacobrollins37]

I really like your videos. I got the same printer and like seeing other people's mods for the printer.

[@earlpoorman9045]

I was lookingfor a dceent price and here it is: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?lkid=12711150 I thiink that's lowest pri ce :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKjRgnyrlrShmK8

[@CoronadoStudio]

very good information, helped me actually get solid prints with your settings.

[@T_potssb]

this series could be called : Pimp my Printer

[@TheCode-X]

I just saw XZibit with a printer lol

[@chinexican66dr]

For bearings, I would recommend black graphite for lubrication. Provides the smoothness of grease without the dust collection properties.

[@NexiTech]

david ridge Thanks for tips I will check it :)

[@bryanelliott2107]

Self-lubing bearings, IIRC, are graphite-core. The graphite is sacrificial; as the printer operates, the fine imperfections in the rails scrape off the interior of the bearing. This doesn't last long; soon, the imperfections are filled, and you have a graphite on graphite layer, which is very low friction. Over a very long period (years of continuous operation at good speeds), the graphite core can erode as graphite slowly migrates to the ends of the steel rod. You're right that a squirt of grease can slightly improve performance there for a little bit, however, it will make it easier for the graphite to migrate down the steel. These are reasonably standard bearings, though; they are far lower friction than a metal-on-metal interface. Active lubrication wont get you as much improvement as a roller bearing (which is the steady state solution for this kind of thing), but either way, there will still be some noise if you're not doing something ridiculous, like lapping your steel bars on a lathe. Overall, the graphite reduces your friction enough that the difference shouldn't matter, though; you'd get more accuracy gains replacing the belt pullies with toothed ones, adding tensioners as you've done, and going to a 24V system with tighter stepper motors.

[@TheM92jesla]

Thanks fot the Vertex tip... Heading to Kjell & Co first thing tomorrow...

[@JoseRozua]

Wonderful information mate! Thank you so much for all this tips. I've subscribed to follow all your advances with this A8 we love so much.

[@NexiTech]

Jose Rozua Great mate! Thanks for positive feedback:) I make updates,makes and tips coming :)

[@dIIFEO]

Good tip: If you have the vertex bed cover. Do not go over 40-50C. (Never go over 50) You will ruin it, and almost impossible to remove the items. (PLA) Need 90c++ with ABS Saves you some money and time.

[@Blackjoplayer]

Thank you for this video. Its a very good help for an anet a8 beginner :)

[@NexiTech]

Blackjoplayer Glad you like it :)

[@kulyro]

Hello,nice upgrades!! So nice that I couln't find anything better,so I'm doing mine very similar(took a while to find the extruder chain,but it was worth it). An hour ago just arrived the Vertex,hope you are right(didn't installed it yet). Thank you very much for the idea!

[@NexiTech]

Thanks for commenting! Im glad that I helped! Good for you that you get Vertex build tak its awesome and make life much more easier with prints. Right now I making even more changes to my printer to get even better results and much more speed. I completely changed extruder and X carrige and now am testing and calibrating software. Soon am going to make video about best upgrade so far! :)

[@kulyro]

Can't wait to see the video!In 3 days I'll have a month since I started,so I have to learn a LOT,and your next video will help for sure! Now when I see videos with tape and hair spray,it seems like a big joke to me,thank you very very much for tips! Now i bumped into a big problem,the HBed bended downwards in the middle.this is a big one and i'm stuck(today :D ) I had the same problem 2 weeks ago,difference is that it was bended just a bit upwards and everything was fine. Any idea? Thank you again!

[@darrenbeckett2461]

Hi There. So I see this video is around 5 years old but I finally have gotten to see it. So this Is my very first 3D printer and I'm super excited to have a go at it and see where it takes me. But in saying that, where can I get the G Code for the latest cura. I have tried so many options from different chat sites ect but nothing seems to work. I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thank you so much for the awesome video

[@jimrey6892]

Hi thanks for sharing,On my Anet A8 I used silicone spray on the Bearings and on the threaded rods this made my machine so quiet,I also put the machine on square of foam cut from a mattress topper I now get no vibration and what a sweet machine to use,Hope this helps StevePS (oh silicone spray I use is called GT85 spray)

[@Theexplorographer]

The bearings are teflon or silicon coated bearings. I personally use Lithium White grease for all bearings.

[@moots27]

Keep up the great printing videos. You shud show us the end result with the psu switch on and the cables managed with the cover on for the motherboard

[@NexiTech]

Thanks mate! I will make video when I complete setup! Glad you like video ;)

[@diodematrix3738]

Great video & mods, Do you have a link to the z microswitch Endstop Adjuster bracket that you have fitted. As the link in your posted dosn't work.

[@juanfcomunozrodriguez4689]

really good explanations, you're awesome!!! lots of thanks, great videos ;)

[@code-grammardude5974]

I think you have the best upgraded Anet a8 printer their is. :D

[@tubejim101]

How did you do your chain ends? Looks like you took your chain from thing:1905344, but got the ends from some where else. I like my z stop mod, but most chain ends use the spot on the x stepper motor, that I need for my z stop.

[@holseng]

Köpte den där vertex grejen. Jävlar va de sitter! Tack för tipset :)

[@NexiTech]

Tomas Holseng Varsågod! De är skit bra! :)

[@holseng]

Nu fick du en ny sub :) Byggde min Anet A8 förra veckan och är skit nöjd! Kan rekommendera OctoPrint/Octopi om du vill slippa minneskorten.. De var riktigt smidigt.

[@markwood1660]

Hi Nexi - Thanks for thetip and I can certainly confirm that the Vertex bed works, almost too well..... what heat have you the bed set at ? as its really hard to get the prints off after they are finished

[@pieface1726]

"self lubricating" bearings have their metallic structure impregnated with a lubricant, this is then "sweated" out over time. but yeah...self lubricated bearings are only truly useful in enclosed mechanical components, otherwise lithium grease is way better. great video!

[@willmcquin8308]

great job keep it up bro

[@connorr6343]

Can you make a video showing how to add the printer to Cura?

[@bob81354]

Hi nice job do you have a link for the heat sink for the power supply

[@NexiTech]

bob81354 Search VGA Heat-sink on ebay or Aliexpress :)

[@danmyself5341]

Great tips, thanks. Question: I have the same printer as in this video, but I have z sensor, but it is offset from the nozzle on the x,y, How do I compensate for that? because when I do autolevel, the sensor goes of the table. Thanks

[@jelacio]

on your censor problem have you try to use a small power supply just for the censor ? i think its a 5 volts try it and see if your sensor would work right this time

[@joecalabro7929]

The extra cable you mention for the mosfet, don't most mosfet's come with that extra cable?

[@dos1639]

Great video, SuperB explanations

[@NexiTech]

Thnaks mate! Check my other videos :) There is much more. Cheers!

[@RAWWERS]

Nice! Which y-belt tensioner is this? Looks pretty sturdy.

[@michaeld_aus_b]

great tips. I am fairly new: why did you turn the heatbed 90 degres ?

[@NexiTech]

To be able to install cable chain :)

[@TinyHardware]

Maybe you can help me. I've got the Anet A8 black version like yours and can't get this back brace to fit my machine. Have you made it and if so can you tell me the definitions that you used. My rear flexes a lot and would like that brace before it breaks. Thank you. Also my bed is 220mm x 220mm like yours.

[@frankbraun5682]

Hi Nexi, great Job! can you tell me some details from your frame stabilizer? I didn´t find the links ;-) Regards Mac

[@JakobWesthoff]

Really nice work. I am currently assembling my new A8. Already looking forward to creating and applying your suggestions. Thanks for putting all of those ideas and models together. I have got a question about the filament you are using. Which brand, color and type is it? Especially the yellow one you are using for the printer parts. Is it PLA or ABS?

[@NexiTech]

Thanks! I appriacite it :) This is all youtube is for. Spread knowledge and ideas to people. Am glad that you like it. About filament,Am using cheapest PLA garbage I can buy on aliexpress :D About 20 USD free shipping per kilogram. Only once I order PLA twice of price and the was 20% better material so definitely not worth it.

[@ImmenseFox]

Nexi Tech Hey. Do you mind linking the filament you're using? 😊

[@TheMrrobbie1997]

Could you please share all the different presets? i have copied over high and Medium but what do you do for Low quality? would be nice to have screenshots of all the preset settings :)

[@satgod]

looks much more professional now

[@NexiTech]

Thanks :)

[@chroboe]

Hi where did you find the heat sinks you used on the power supply?

[@wingren13]

how did you mount the mosfet, i printed the same electronics case and mosfet mount, did you have to modify the case to mount the mosfet?

[@BoundlessxArts]

Nice video! As well as the other two upgrade videos. I've got so much to do and I don't even have the printer yet :D Can you provide us with the link for the switch that you use instead of the autosensor?

[@BoundlessxArts]

Nevermind, I just realised that it's the Prusa i3 ANET A8, Z Endstop Adjuster from the description. It looked so different in the video xD

[@xxxedevtsrt]

I see you have position sensor AND z stop button. Did you add that button later or was it in original printer? How did you connect it?

[@demmylo]

Great video!! it is very helpful , i have already printed the majority of upgrades , but i miss the z-endstop. Where i can find its .stl ? Thank you very much

[@demmylo]

Nexi this is different from yours

[@NexiTech]

www.thingiverse.com/thing:1930601

[@CoolStreamT]

Hi there. I want to print linear chain for my Anet. I saw your MODs in thingiverse. Whats the best way to print it? There are two options there. Single pieces placed on the bottom or assembled chains places on the sides in Cura?

[@miraxh98]

Great video, very useful! thanks

[@NexiTech]

Miraxh Tereziu Glad you like it :)

[@JH_Tech49]

Hi, i really enjoy your video. keep going ! I didn't see it in the description so did you have a link to your cura print settings ?

[@NexiTech]

Jack Harper Glad you like it! I try to put some Links of Cura screenshot but you have in video explained so you can use same like I do.

[@lorenzocerato1826]

hi...i did not understand one thing...what is the purpose of mosfet mudule? Is it so important?

[@DBHHellhound]

Can you test some Nylon Bridge filament ?

[@jimngugk4741]

after I saw this video I got mine too :) very good very sticky , so hard to remove your print , so carefull with it :)

[@jimngugk4741]

and I am having the bad bed level problem like you too but mine is more worst than yours , I got 4 side of them , I measure the four corner all prefect but when goes to the cross line all higher than the four corner :( I am in really bad mood about it , no matter how I do and how I align them all the same , so do you have any clue on this bad bed adjustment ?

[@andydunnock8114]

Are those bearings made from a self lubricating material?

[@shooterscorner7500]

Again a great video very informative. Can you tell me where you purchased the linear bearing for anet a8?

[@NexiTech]

Shooters Corner Thanks for positive feedback. Here you go. They are not best but they are cheap :D 6PCS/LOT SCS8UU 8mm Linear Ball Bearing Block CNC Router Reprap 3D printer DIY Kit Accessories 3D printer parts s.aliexpress.com/eeqeE7jI (from AliExpress Android)

[@hyperfilmprod]

Great Videos Nexi! When you greased the bearings did you take off the seals and put the grease inside or did you just rub some inside as is? Thanks!

[@NexiTech]

Works any way! just don't run them dry :)

[@stoniism]

Great Video! I have a problem with extreme warping on PLA Material. After about 4 Layers the plastic warps so much it is pushed away by the printnozzle. right now i am still using blue tape and heated print bed to 60° and no cooling on the first layers. Can you give me a tip on how to avoid warping of PLA?

[@NexiTech]

200C on Nozzle 55C-45C-0C on bed. Use hotbed on first couple layers than put bed on 37C or off(0C) Cooling you need direct after first layer. Level your bed perfectly and If all this don't help you,try to use some hearspray(on blue tape) if not use brim function or order Vertex Buildtak. Good luck.

[@stoniism]

thank you very much

[@webSIGES]

Thank you for all you've shared :) Btw where did you get the heatsinks for the power supply?

[@NexiTech]

Glad you like it. Here is links of heat sink: www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-Heat-Sink-14x14x6mm-IC-Heat-Sink-Aluminum-14-14-6MM-Cooling-Fin-/131836640201?hash=item1eb2137bc9:g:k4sAAOSwqBJXUYL6 www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Heatsink-For-Motherboard-DDR-VGA-RAM-Memory-Chipset-Cooler-Aluminium-UK-/222128518115?hash=item33b7e433e3:g:IYYAAOSwMHdXRKC~

[@pfsmith007]

Thanks for the tips

[@bryanelliott2107]

Do yourself a favor: get OctoPi; it works with the A8 with no modification, you get a sleek web interface, and you'll never have to deal with the SD card mishigus again. If you're _real_ fancy, you can set it up to slice, too, but its slicer is based on Cura 15, which is not nearly as robust as Cura 2.4.0.

[@NexiTech]

Bryan Elliott Thanks for tips man! I will definitely check that out! :)

[@phanom3658]

Do you have the link for the heatsink

[@tim8505]

Very cool video :) is there a onlinestore to order the vertex cover? Bcs google cant find anything

[@NexiTech]

Thanks man! Here you go! www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2057872.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X+K8400-BT+Buildtak.TRS0&_nkw=+K8400-BT+Buildtak&_sacat=0 www.amazon.com/Velleman-K8400-BT-Buildtak-Surface-Printer/dp/B00STUMYZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483887119&sr=8-1&keywords=vertex+3d+print+bed

[@ericgunstone4489]

You stated at about 50 seconds that after you installed the vertex sheet, you mostly do not need bed heating, does that include ABS?, I cannot get ABS to stick any other way so I will give this sheet a go.

[@NexiTech]

Not sure for ABS. Soon am going to receive one 1kg and then we goo! :D

[@joseflindbom7680]

Tja.. Funderar på att köpa en printer.. Anet a8 eller tevo tarrentula... Håller på med rc.. Vilken printer skulle du köpa?

[@turkman9428]

Hi! Great Anet! I have almost same, but I sippose, that I have previous model. For example, I don't have hot bed connection. In any case, it's a good copy of Prusa :). So, I have a question. How long time did you wait for heating of hotbed for ABS preheat? Abt 100-110 deg? I have to change 12V hotbad to 220V heating pad becouse it take about 40 minutes.

[@NexiTech]

Hi! Thanks! 220V heat pad are fast and nice! I just did testing of my heat bed with mosfet. Here are results: 50 deg- 45sec 60deg- 159sec 70deg- 225sec 80deg-318sec 90deg-477sec 100deg-1081sec or 18min From 100deg and up going very slow. I order some cotton isolation shits for under bed 220x220mm they can take up to 900deg so will repeat test again soon. I hope I helped. Cheers!

[@turkman9428]

Ok. In general I use ABS plastic. It require bed temperature atleast 90 deg.

[@alexandergrigorev4518]

Hi! Provide please an URL for mofset plate. And have you made any changes to hotbed base plate? My is not strong enough and becomes bended during hotbed leveling

[@NexiTech]

Check video description, Nope I did not made any changes. Bended? That is strange... Check all screws maybe some are loose...

[@honeybadger6127]

what did you use for "Printhead settings" and "Gantry height" on the "machine settings" in cura?

[@NexiTech]

They are all 0. But if you planing to print parts in method ''One by One' not ''All at once'' then I suggest to measure right measurements to avoid potential collision.

[@theblackwiggle84]

Hi, love your videos. I just built my new Anet A8. I can print no problems with the sd card. but cant connect it inside any software ( cura or repetierHost). I have a COM port CH340 in Device manager. It is for the printer, but still cant connect. is there supposed to be another COM port for the mainboard. Or the baud rate?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@musicmaneman38]

Captain Ultimate baud rate is usually set to 115200. go to your hardware manager in windows and find the printer com port. change the baud to 115200. go into cura and do the same.

[@theblackwiggle84]

Sweet. Thanks alot!

[@x9x9x9x9x9]

I'm having some stringing issues with PETG on my Anet A8 any suggestion on what to change? Its not the normal stringing either. Its the thick diagonal blobs stacked on one another.

[@NexiTech]

x9x9x9x9x9 Try higher retraction speed and lower temps just a bit.

[@zenomite]

Where did you get the mosfet powersupply for the bed

[@NexiTech]

Check video description :)

[@Rmoore08]

Can you give me the links to your Z-endstop mount? And also the X-belt holder? Thank you :D

[@NexiTech]

Prusa i3 ANET A8, Z Endstop Adjuster. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1930601 Anet A8 prusa-i3 X-belt holder www.thingiverse.com/thing:1685768 Here you go :)

[@Kyle-wo4vd]

What is the need of the Mosfet if you are printing with no heat to your bed with the Vertex cover?

[@NexiTech]

Kyle Dillinger For extra safety and for ABS prints.

[@tecnosrc]

Hello Nexi, I have a question. you have the Velleman K8400 BT Buildtak 3D Print Bed Surface installed on the hot bed of the anet a8 directly or of a crystal on the anet a8? regards.

[@NexiTech]

tecnosrc Yes I directly install over stock bed surface. I just apply this VERTEX cover over aluminum bed surface.

[@Phoosh]

I'd love to see some close ups of the finer detail on smaller prints. I really wanna see what a well calibrated A8 is capable of. Also, are you using the stock 240watt psu? And if so, how consistent is the heating? BTW, the trex vid looks amazing.

[@NexiTech]

Phoosh Thanks Mate! Check my other videos This Anet A8 is even more upgraded. Now it has E3D V6 Hot end etc...Yap it's stock Power supply. Heating is only need for first couple layers 4-8 and then you can turn off. But of course it depends what you printing. Sometimes I leave it to 37 just to be little bit Warm. On some prints it's 0. You have to experiment little with your Models.

[@guarapo66]

Have you printed with nylon? Finishing line or maybe weed trimmer lines?

[@NexiTech]

Not right now but am planing to test it.

[@boondockfan1975]

Are the upgraded parts printed with ABS or PLA? I think ABS, but want to be certain :) And if it is ABS, you were able to print this without inhousing the printer? That would be great, and i would consider to buy this machine myself :) Keep up the good work :)

[@NexiTech]

Everything is PLA :)

[@GAMA-ck5tl]

Where did you order your Anet a8 from? Did you have to pay taxes when you received it?

[@stephenprescott8105]

Thank you ,........vert interesting !!!!

[@NexiTech]

stephen prescott Glad you like it :)

[@themechanicdrredewaan5916]

hi, where can i buy the Vertex?

[@BuildUP3D]

did you get USB printing to work with cura 2.3?

[@NexiTech]

Not really for now. I trying to change codes to make it work. If I made it I will make video about it. So far no luck! :/

[@blackoutmenazee]

Do you have links for the upgrades you printed?

[@blackoutmenazee]

Especially the wire tracks Please!!

[@Liam-ir6xm]

Would anyone have a link to where i can get the stl for the motherboard and mosfet enclosure?, I have my a8 on the way and play to do the same upgrades

[@NexiTech]

Check video description :)

[@Liam-ir6xm]

Ahhhh, much appreciated :)

[@Liam-ir6xm]

Also wondering how did you print the main board case?, its to big to fit on my printbed in cura.

[@SNIPERVIPER141]

how many spools of filament would you say you spent on all of your upgrades

[@NexiTech]

SNIPERVIPER141 Only one :)

[@SNIPERVIPER141]

Nexi haha sweet cause i only bought one roll for upgrades

[@brianipsen1285]

Do you think, that you could give a complete list of modifications? I have seen a couple of your videos (great work :-)) - and I am just wondering how many of the modifications, that can be printed from thingiverse.com - and how much needs to be bought (for example new Bowden extruder, improved/more powerfull PSU and so on) ? I guess upgrading the firmware (Skynet3D) to 2.xx, adjusting/calibrating the proximity sensor and so on is a whole chapter by itself ?

[@blackoutmenazee]

I would like the same list!

[@blackjackjwh]

i just got the Anet A8 and i dont understand how you got your cura set up. Because when cura asks for the printer make the anet a8 is not on the list?

[@TjPjPro]

prusa i3 mendel and then just put your own settings in

[@blackjackjwh]

Thije isThije thank you very much

[@korbendallas9247]

Hi i got a Question: Ive also bought the Vertex film but i got one big issue: The first layer wont stay on the bed. First he filament is verry irrigular coming out off the noozle but also the filament is roling around the noozle. I set the bottom speed to 8mm/s, heated the bed up to 60 but nothing really works. Im really frustratet at the moment. can you help me?

[@NexiTech]

Peter Pan It seems that you did not level your bed correctly. Use A4 paper between Nozzle and Hotbed (Vertex) Paper should not be stuck! You should see tiny gap with your eye between Nozzle and Vertex cover (Hotbed). Do this on 4 side of your bed and take your time. Then try to move X carriage over bed left and right and If you hear nozzle scratching Vertex that is bad. Gap should be 0.2mm or close to thickness A4 Paper. Then you can use 10mm/s or more... Use 55 Degrades for first 4-8 layer then you can set to 37c or turn it off if you want. P.S. clean Vertex with some Windows/mirror cleaning solution. Don't use 99% Alkohol or similar...

[@korbendallas9247]

okay thanks i will try that. Everytime before printing I have to ajust the hotbed with a4 paper. Also i clean the bed every time after printing

[@NexiTech]

Peter Pan Not really. You don't need to clean it every time or level bed every time you print something. You should recheck bed level before prints or if you pul offl hard your model efter printing etc...

[@dIIFEO]

Printer du ut via pc eller minnekort? Sliter med å få printet ut gjennom usb fra pcen med nyere versjon av cura. På den eldre versjonen virker det smertefritt. Forslag?

[@NexiTech]

Båda. Nyaste version av CURA jag kör genom USB. Äldre Cura jag kör genom PC.

[@redangryduck]

Ok so my hotbed only heats up to 67 degrees, will the mosfet allow it to heat to the 110 needed to print with ABS?

[@NexiTech]

Am not sure if you have problem with motherboard,cables,heat bed or power supply. But I can reach 110c without problem with mosfet. I don't know how was before sense I never test it over 70c.

[@martinnavarrete1870]

P Smyth

[@tigranohanyan3321]

Have you tried to print ABS with Vertex without heat?

[@NexiTech]

Yes and it work with brim option in CURA, but now PETG is available and is much better material than ABS and its way easier to print! PLA and PETG is way to go. I don't thing I ever use ABS after I try PETG.

[@tigranohanyan3321]

I heard that Nylon is very good and strong material to print gears. Have you ever tried Nylon?

[@suddskys7482]

var i sverige hittar man den? plattan. jag funderar starkt på att köpa en Anet A8 var köpte du din?

[@NexiTech]

Hej! Gärna titta under video beskrivning. Det finns linkar och coupén för rabatt pris. Ha det bra.

[@av8or4951]

Where do you get the linear bearings?

[@NexiTech]

av8or4951 Aliexpress,they are cheep but not best. Am thinking to change them to bearings printed from PLA. I Already print like 8 peaces. I do testing first and then make video about them. Idea is good but we will se how the are work in real life. Here is link: Linear Bushings, IGUS Style - Parametric with Solidworks 2014 source found on #Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:496401

[@THEmtf20]

can you give me settings for filament ABS

[@Game-Univ]

I just finish building my anet printer yesterday but I have a little problem with the bed maybe you can help me,I'm having a problem heating the bed for abs it only reach 72 degrees I already checked the wires and there are fine I don't know if someone has this problem before,maybe is the bed,what do you think?

[@NexiTech]

Hm... That's weird. It should reach 80C without problem. From where did you get your Anet A8? What's is your power-supply?Amp rating? Model of motherboard?

[@Game-Univ]

Nexi i bought my printer on gearbest,so i checked my power supply and it only send 8 volts to the hot bed since this is my first printer i don't know how many volts the hot bed should receive

[@ngtiniao3014]

where do i find the STL or AMF file of your printed components???

[@NexiTech]

ng tin iao In video description.

[@kieranpat]

can I have links for all of these upgrades featured in this vid?

[@kieranpat]

also can you make a vid about how to use the usb cable on your pc?

[@NexiTech]

Check video description. :) USB on Cura 2.3.1 for now is not possible. Am working on codes to make it work. If I made it I will made another video or write here in the comments.

[@kieranpat]

Thank you very much!

[@NType474]

How did you connect your printer to Cura then?

[@ODYSx2]

That bed cover does not need any heating bed ? sound strange you don t have any issues without heat. Does it come in many sizes like 30 x40 cm or 30 x30 cm?

[@NexiTech]

You don't need heat on bed all time. This surface is super sticky for printing material.

[@ODYSx2]

Thanks :)

[@HowdyMyDudes]

Cura settings at 10:58

[@geozar]

could you give us a link for bearing parts

[@NexiTech]

Here you go: www.aliexpress.com/item/6PCS-LOT-SCS8UU-8mm-Linear-Ball-Bearing-Block-CNC-Router-Reprap-3D-printer-DIY-Kit-Accessories/32671316545.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.yyZY4V