Answered: Your Top 5 Selected Tubeless Tire Fail Questions!

[@timwong3532]

Did Josh really just call the tiny ziplock a crack baggie? I'm dying 😂

[@oneschance]

He said what he said

[@beneyckmans20]

I had to just go back a bit too, "what baggies"? great video though, I thought I knew a lot but apparently not everything.

[@alexgold1981]

With that and the pipe cleaners lying around, we should probably keep an eye on him 😂

[@andrewmcalister3462]

You know that if Silca sold crack, it would be Walter White grade.

[@pitchforkmechanic7797]

Who calls them tiny ziplocks? Wait until you hear what they call a disc wheel inflation adaptor

[@Frostbiker]

How is it possible I have watched hundreds of GCN videos and not learned the difference between tubeless tires and tubeless ready tires?

[@FliskerX]

But have you learned about TR ? is it same as TLR ? Thinking about the GP 5000 S TR ? Is that the "half baked" tire that's going to be foaming?

[@ChrisP978]

​@@FliskerXSame, they require sealant to be air tight. They don't bubble sealant like those thin MTB tires but you'll notice that they hold pressure longer once that sealant is dispersed.

[@gaza4543]

all I can say is if you dont want clogged valves get yourself Reserve fillmore valves they literally will not allow sealant down them while riding along by design. If they do get sticky, they can be pulled apart and serviced with an allenkey. These are a true under the radar advancement in bike tech that no one is talking about.

[@DirectorRobb]

These are great tips! I love that your channel isn't just about your products (as great as they are). You dispense super helpful advice and knowledge that's helped me be a better biker.

[@zachcobb35]

Tape and valve issues were my #1 reason for not continuing with Silca sealant, so I’m glad it is finally addressed here to have an approach to try again.

[@ianjolley7457]

This is the site that I needed to watch before I started with tubeless.

[@Pastamistic]

Creating the hole for a valve stem with a soldering iron works great too. Just melt through the tape into a perfectly fit circle. Then pick off some of the flashing created. Learned that one from Spank recommending it for their rim tape application and I've been doing that ever since.

[@SamW604]

Excellent video! The recommendations for preventing sealant from clogging my valve cores will be put to good use ASAP. Thank you.

[@Surestick88]

With regards to punching a valve hole in the tape I've had good luck using a hot nail or screw to melt a hole.

[@JohnGarlandTrialLawyer]

Synerg-e in the valve stem and core! Love it!

[@Swanstanley]

Hell Yeah , it never occurred to me to that something could be done about this . Not a cheap fix but I’ll give it a go with my Stans Race Sealant . 😊

[@northkyt]

I tried putting a little freehub grease in the valve stem and onto the core before I saw this video. My thinking was it should stick and stay in place better than oil (so it won't get inside the tire and prevent the sealant from sealing holes). I'm curious if this will work, time will tell.

[@randallsmith7885]

With regard to blowing up a rim, I ordered rims from Light Bicycle and an option is to have a very small vent hole drilled in the side wall. It may prevent this issue. Another option they offer is a rim bed with no nipple holes. Makes it difficult and time consuming to build the wheel, but rim tape is not needed.

[@peterhoelzel2448]

Problem with the sidewall holes is, it may trap water inside the rim. Campagnolo rim have no holes and it's perfect for tubeless setups.

[@tjb8841]

Re rim tape: its adhesive. So like anything you are glueing together: clean the rim (light fine grit sandpaper, alcohol), make sure it’s warm, and press it together. I do the latter by installing a tube and letting it sit in a warm spot overnight. This has the added benefit of having one tire bead already seated, making insets much easier to install, and getting the other bead to seat is easier too. Yes, it’s an extra step, but at home, I figure I’d rather take the extra time up front, not riding, than increase the chances of an issue out on the ride.

[@michaelclements4664]

@10:18, you can use the valve stem to tack down the end of the rim tape. Just wind the tape so it ends about 5-10 cm past the valve stem.

[@tariqkamil7853]

That first point really makes sense…actually, everything mentioned

[@JuggernautMTB]

With multiple bikes all running tubeless, clogged valves has been an omnipresent irritant. I’ll give this a go on my next install. Thx Josh!

[@ajsds66]

Just use Fillmore valves, no core, nothing to clog, easier to inflate. Best idea ever and a must for tubeless.

[@6SpeedsGood]

Agree, they are super effective and simple to use, if a bit pricey, but you’ll forget about that the first time you use them.

[@lolbubs11111]

Valve cores are also super cheap, like $1 or less. I just replace them when they get clogged. It sounds like soaking them in some heavy oil before install might extend the life a little and I'll try that. But it's not too bad to just replace them once or twice a year anyway.

[@Swanstanley]

Valves clogging is not a massive issue , clogging valve stems is a big issue for me . £28for a little bottle of oil to prevent this is the best thing I’ve learned this year 😅

[@trouthunter4250]

No better videos to geek out with

[@Hunttherider]

Where was this video 7 yrs ago when I first pumped up my tubeless WTB Nano gravel tyres and watched with confusion as sealant just oozed out of the tyre walls. Great tips here, although we have to laugh at our sport that it demands such micro-level analysis and instruction. Bring it on!

[@what-about-mike83]

I found my sidewall leak spots in the spot i stretched the tyre when getting it on the rim but nothing anywhere else on the tyre

[@jeffreed2743]

Valve prep, brilliant!!

[@MarkLRandall]

This is a fantastic video, great info. I knew about the tires, but I've had all kinds of issues with rim tape and clogged valves. I've given up on tubeless, I personally don't find it worth the hassle. I bet if you followed all these tips, it could work well, but I'm not going there anytime soon!

[@alexnrs8700]

Once again… great content. I love and appreciate the no BS, actual mechanic/scientific explanations you provide. Merci!

[@doughorner5730]

Excellent! We talk about your vids at the shop and use the information to improve our work, this one will be up tomorrow morning. Thanks!

[@MrMars121]

Cleaning out sealant? Every spring when the warm season starts. Meaning when my bikes were not being used for about 3 to 4 months during the winter, I like to take off the tires, clean out the sealant and then replenish it. What are best practices around that? Last year I had orange seal in there, and it completely dried out inside so I cleaned it out cleaned everything and refreshed the sealant.

[@Zyzzyx42]

Definitely have the Rene Herse Extralights weeping sealant for a couple days. Not nearly so bad with the RH Standard sidewalls.

[@davidnall4445]

Another great video. These are topics that confound and confuse most cyclists. Why is my sealant drying up?, why are valves clogging? etc. You are really helping to make the tubeless world much easier to live with. Thanks so much.

[@CatManDoSocial]

Excellent tips, Josh. Especially for the valves and cores. Great stuff. Thank you!

[@rodmarch1306]

You imply that with Stan's and other tensilized polypropylene rim tapes only one wrap is needed. Stan's actually says that one wrap is only needed for tire pressures up to 45 psi and over that they recommend a double wrap. But maybe the single wrap use is backed up by lots of world and pro-level experience. Curious as to what you think of this. Thanks.

[@ДмитрийЧапыгин-к9ч]

Josh, thanks for another great educational episode! I saw a lot of videos on KZbin about initial TR tires installation, and nobody spoke about additional amount of sealant that you have to pour. So, I used to pour around 60 mil of sealant for a new gravel tire, and the sealant just didn't work. Now I understand why..

[@Frostbiker]

14:58 Thank you for actually showing how things are done with some B-roll, it makes things easier to understand.

[@doughorner5730]

2 questions, what about Whisky (Terivail) tape? That seems different than the types you talked about and for me is much easier to lay down neatly. Also, what do you think about burning the valve hole? We use a soldering iron and it seems to work great.

[@marcbryant8482]

I've come to really appreciate Josh's videos. Originally just saw them as promos for very good products (I'm a wax convert) but now I see his work as a unicorn in cycling video world - genuine knowledgeable dude who is there to help. Right up there with GPlama, RidesOfJapan and of course DCR.

[@darrene950]

Best most helpful video hitting all the issues I’ve continued to struggle with. Thank you.

[@sebastiandomagala9233]

This is such a valuable video for me. I have hesitated quite a long time if I should go for tubeless. Now I know that it would absorb most of my time. No ride in the world is worth that hassle. I will stick to my TPU tubes, that's for sure.

[@williamsylvia3962]

Wow! I gave up on tubeless for my road bike because i thought there was an issue with the tires leaking sealant. Great video Josh!

[@hardmtnbiker]

Josh, you really take a “deep dive” into everything about cycling maintenance. As for the awl tool and ensuring that hole gets sealed with the valve stem, I have this tip. Make some silicone O rings and use them. I took some regular silicone caulk used for installation of a kitchen sink and make some O rings. This helps for several reasons. The rim may have a deeper channel and that value moves around and air leaks around it. Also just the forces of attaching and removing your pump and repeatedly threading the valve tight causing a space around that interface. Tell me what you think?

[@fredboudreaux9663]

Josh is always dropping knowledge bombs.

[@tjb8841]

Regarding inserts: number one tip is get the Cushcore Beaddropper tire lever. Best tire lever anyway, and it works to push the tire bead into the channel, both on install and removal.

[@SignorLuigi]

Great video. Having said that, it is even more clear to me now that my decision to use clincher tires (in my case, Continental GP 5000) and TPU inner tubes (in my case, RideNow) is my finest moment of cognitive activity.

[@chanstevens9658]

Absolutely love this, and having been tubeless for 5+ years, I recently gave up on a new install after exhausting my vocabulary of curse words and paid the local shop. They, and this video, have now taught me the very important difference between TL and TR so that I can buy and use the right products the right way.

[@jbweld600]

Love love love the detailed explanations on most everything you guys cover 👍🏼. Keep it up

[@SILCAVelo]

Thanks!!

[@BBQSKI]

I’ve been using tubeless tires since they came out and never knew most of this stuff!

[@chrism5433]

Thank you . Really good video.still running tubes but no flats and the best part is having fun lol Cheers 🍺

[@timhall7771]

Super-useful. Thank you!

[@tommays56]

The BOYD GRV rims with G-One Allround tires and orange sealant has worked perfectly

[@AceMBP]

That's definitely future bicycle industry goal. Single installation tires. $$$$'s. I didn't know that about lubing the valve stem and core. Good tip thanks!!!

[@YukiTsunoda7]

*Thanks so much for making what many people take for granted but man the way you explain things!! so easy to understand and very appreciated knowledge is so powerful i bout two sets of tyre jacks because of last video!!! cant wait to change tyres now!!* keep up the great work

[@JibbaJabber]

@13:00 Pro Tip: DO NOT over tighten that valve nut! If you've done it right, the valve will seal fine with 'gentle' hand tightness. You'll thank me when you need to take the valve out during a miserable winter ride, after a puncture that's too big to seal or plug!

[@tjb8841]

I disagree. With a not so tight valve stem, there might be air leakage. Either right away, or if the valve stem gets bumped. To remove nuts in the field, I carry a Leatherman micro with pliers. Yes, it more annoying, but I’d rather have the wheel not leak in the first place, and make the last ditch repair of tube install a bit harder.

[@larrylem3582]

1:08, I hadn't heard of running tubeless tires without sealant. I guess the only disadvantage would be the lack of flat protection.

[@denverman6161963]

As someone who has just started to convert my (non-road) bikes to tubeless, this eased a few concerns I had. Logically speaking, I thought "how is it possible to NOT clog your valves with sealant...given, that's what it's made to do?!" and making them "slippery to sealant" makes a lot of sense. I'm hoping I can do all these things you've referenced so I DON'T regret going tubeless and switch back.....'cause I LOATHE changing flats! Great video.

[@spdaltid]

Oh man, you're gonna just love fixing a sealant leaking flat on the trail.......

[@glennford0]

Wow!! Great video Josh. Going to use this advice on the tire install I do. Specific issue addressed, gummed up valves and cores.

[@teabelly1565]

Having watched many tubless topics on GCN and other contributers to this topic I'm very glad I stuck with my old school tried and tested tubed system.

[@markhagen7777]

Thanks for your insights I am amazed that for the past three years I’ve run road tubeless and managed to navigate the waters without your perspective and tips I think things will go a whole lot easier next installation

[@MrCjrodriguez]

This was such an informative video. Thank you!

[@emilegoguely4032]

Been dipping my valves in grease for years, works awesome. Not sure how a puncture in the tape for the valve is different than a year and won't run.

[@miklm]

I learned a few things here. Thanks for the detailed info!

[@johnpritchard1428]

You guys have created some great products at silca and very good advice for tubeless users ... but, honestly your silca sealant is just not viable for my regular riding. Blocking up valves, drying up too quickly, the high cost etc, so I've switched to a product that still plugs punctures satisfactorily but remains viable much longer. I'm using conti str tyres in 25 and 28mm ... keep up the good work, you can't hit the bullseye everytime.

[@ellerybice3787]

Thank you for the information that you provided in this video. I experience none of these complicated, messy and troublesome tubeless tires issues that you discuss within. I have the mindset that if tubeless tire proponents encourage riders to keep a backup butyl type pneumatic tube on board, then I will simply keep using tubes as I always have, for the past year

[@ellerybice3787]

Continued; For all the many past years.

[@alainpfammatter8224]

Excellent video with great tipps. Thank you. I have learned a lot.

[@bruce.KAY-bike-drifter]

Thank you for the excellent advice. Especially the idea of lubing inside the valve stems with a protective oil coating. I don't currently run tyre inserts on either of my mountain bikes, and I contemplated trying one. Your 5th comment has helped me decide NOT to bother with tyre inserts. I have been running with tubeless tyres on one of my bikes since 2017 and my other fat bike since 2021. I have never suffered a flat in all that time, and I have never suffered a dented rim. I guess that is because I pay a lot of attention to my tyre pressures before every ride (or am I being superstitious?) So, yeah, why bother with tyre inserts if they make the tyres so damned hard to remove?

[@willanderson1983]

Literally the best advice

[@Thehuntress404]

The valve stem and core was information I’ve wanted for a year now, actually had one of my questions about them clogging featured on gcg and they said I was doing something wrong

[@10ktube]

What's the official generic tubeless tape brands/number? Tesa has varying models and I can't get a definite one wrap or two for over x psi type of answer. Great video, always looking for ways to do this cheaper, I have a lot of wheels floating around my garage.....

[@SILCAVelo]

Tesa 4288 works well and 4289 is Stan's yellow tape. I recommend always running 2 wraps, it helps the tires fit more tightly and reduces likelihood of leaking due to wrinkles or damage due to sealant granules/additives, and they weigh just a few grams per wrap.

[@popeyebouldercreek]

I might go back and try tubeless one more time. After plugging my valves several times, I gave up. But perhaps the Synergetic tip might make it worthwhile. But that’s a big “might”…

[@slomo3937]

Josh, your achievements of bringing scientific principles to the bicycle world can‘t be praised enough.

[@mechanicaldavid4827]

They _can_ be praised with a high percentage of efficacy and regularity, and that's good enough😁

[@RandallScheele]

How does the replenisher work? How does it interact with the sealant containing the particles? Typically I find that the original sealant has solidified in the tire forming a solid layer in the tire thus encapsulating the sealing particles. Does it dissolve the solidified sealant to resuspend the particles otherwise you are relying on the latex to seal any hole that might arise.

[@Thomas-fy9yc]

On the tire inserts, I’d like some more info.. Inserts for road tires? Or just gravel and MTB? How about on hooked wheels?

[@jestag2]

Wow! With all of that complicated rocket science on using tubeless, I'm glad that I am happy and content with sticking with tubes.

[@romankarabutin3781]

This is just next level stuff👍🏼 thanks Josh!

[@glotube1028]

I’ve went through all the fails you mentioned and then some. I had a fat tire wheel set that I could not get the bead to realease. I used gorilla tape and I will never use it again. It prevented the bead from breaking, and I had to cut them off the rim. Then upon putting a new set of tires back on I reused the valve stems and one wouldn’t seal. I tried the get the bead off so I could put a new stem in. Ha! That sucker would not realease. I’m going to have to destroy a brand new tire again. Now that is getting expensive! Argh 😣

[@hinrichaue7199]

Love the video, but this video reminds me why i use inner tubes :D

[@danielvanderklok2873]

I love his comment that while there are dangers in cycling the health risk of being seditary are actually higher.

[@likepretzel247]

great advice, can i use some other alternative oil like other chian lube to try to lubricate the valve? Thanks.

[@mortenweyhe8780]

Anyone tried with other lube? I am using the ceramic speed UFO drip for the chain. Maybe that will work instead?

[@Viamscience]

Agree with the point on inserts. They do their job…. Keeping the bead in place. But my God…. with a hooked rim they’re a bugger to get off.

[@watchman6844]

Question on TL inflation - I have a quite strong compressor, but sometimes even it‘s not possible to inflate TL tires with that device. In that case I use a CO2 pump. That’s ok but not at all sustainable. Do you have a tipp how to inflate TL tires if the compressor fails or simply isn’t available ?

[@marcusantonyledulx]

Watching this video makes me marvel at the simplicity of Clincher tyres & Tubes. FAR MORE SIMPLE. PS: can you imagine having to service tubeless on multi day, long distance Endurance Ride?

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

Long after we're dead and gone, someone will (re)discover a cheap butyl rubber bladder you can put inside your clincher tire to hold the air pressure. It'll weigh barely150 grams and spares can easily be stowed, even in your jersey pocket. The tires they go inside will be folding, supple things you can mount/dismount with your hands and inflate with a simply hand pump that mounts on your bicycle. No sealants, air compressors or foul language required! Despite being cheap, these butyl air bladders can even be easily and inexpensively repaired with a simple patch kit. Imagine! It's easy if you try.

[@maksimalarivimovic4650]

People do super long ultra races such as the transam and the indiepac with tubeless tires what do you mean?

[@MarkLRandall]

Can you imagine if cars used this primitive tubeless technology? We'd have no time for anything else, and our lifespans would be reduced from all the stress.

[@ChrisP978]

I've switched to tubeless years ago and there really isn't that much faf. Top up sealant every 6 months and continue on. It has saved me from countless tube changes from punctures, I'm never going back. Those super thin MTB race tires are the only ones I know of that eat sealant, so just don't use them.

[@helix7055]

What is your thoughts using Vittoria road air-liners and Silca Fiberfoam sealant?

[@ChrisBennison-bs8pe]

I’m a big fan Silca products and the thought that goes into them. So I was keen to try the tubeless sealant and replenisher. But I found in practice step 1 dried up completely in around 40-50 days, not the 90-120 Silca quote for adding replenisher. That was on two Schwalbe One TLE and a Conti GP5000S TR. It also appeared that most of the CF pieces must have migrated to the tyre bread on seating as there was little evidence of CF in the residue left in the tyre. No punctures when I was riding - great - but longevity if this isn’t ok. Pity - I’ve bought both step 1 & 2. Do I try again, or try another!!?

[@Mr_Daso]

Can you use any old lube to prep valves and valve cores? Like a wet lube?

[@richardneil5202]

Such great practical advice. So pleased that you have taken the time & trouble to share your fantastic wealth of knowledge. For many years I have been using a dab of silicone grease on my valve cores, figuring this prolongs the life of the rubber seals. Is this doing the same job as the lubricant you suggest & helping the sealant not bung up the valve?

[@RandallScheele]

When I am on the road and a leak develops, I remove the core and add fresh sealant such as Stans through the valve to seal the leak. In this video, you say that Synerg treatment of the valve stem prevents your sealant from adhering to the walls. Does this mean that rather than using the replenisher when a leak occurs, one could use the sealant through the valve stem when on the road?

[@DanielHandorff]

Josh, Something I've always wondered, I know many other people do too.....once my Silca sealant with fiber dries out, does the replenisher soften it back up again or is it at a point of no return. Thank you!!

[@DanielHandorff]

Yes, I've been wondering this as well. Also, the replenisher doesn't have carbon fiber and doesnt appear to seal as well.

[@PoulHansenDK]

Can that sealant be added through the valve stem, with a medicinal pump?

[@daryloya]

Thanks Josh. Can you comment on what to do on the road when you need to install a tube? What do you need to carry to stay clean?

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

You stop and your follow-car comes up and changes your wheel (or complete bike). Your mechanic deals with all the work, mess, etc. later. The industry's "F1-ization" of cycling just keeps accelerating.

[@waldenryd72]

Tried it, newer again on my race bike. Works fine on the mtb on a racer its a pain in the ass

[@zachs6191]

Thoughts on rims without spoke access holes that do not need rim tape? mechanics hate building them them but I love eliminating one potential point of failure in the tubeless process

[@SILCAVelo]

Those are great to work with but currently limited to just a few brands due to both design and manufacturing patents.. I'd say that in 10 years all high end tubeless wheels will have no outer holes.

[@hamishgrant2563]

I blew one of my Light Bicycle rims. LB suggested it was an inflation issue rather than a rim failure. Josh has now confirmed this. They did offer a good deal on a replacement so big ups to Light Bicycle. They suggested adding the drain hole option as mentioned in an earlier comment.

[@casualguy393]

Speaking on the differences between TL and TLR/TLE... are TL tires a little but smaller than TLR or TLE? I can get tubed Conti GP5000 on my Mavic CXR60C wheels, Schwalbe TLE as well, but I can't seem to get Conti GP5000 TL on them.

[@spdaltid]

Excellent video for tubeless users or those who are feeling tubeless "ready". For me, n+1 problems: Far too many bikes to deal with the whole baggage tubeless demands. Went back to tubes a couple of years ago, a happy man.

[@TnFruit]

Is it recommend to use maybe 3:1 or 5:1 Tubelessmilk and Replenisher on TLR tires for first installation?

[@georgekpalmer9062]

Great info and I buy a lot of Silca stuff, so thanks for your efforts Josh, but this just reinforces my thought that tubeless is not a good match with bicycles. Ever hear of anyone using sealant in automobile tires? I have not, because it is not needed because the tire can be made strong and reliable enough to not need it. But, for now, strong and reliable means too heavy for bicycles. I'm staying with tubes. The time and trouble spent on the occasional flat, seems less than all the fuss spent on tubeless.

[@Fear.of.the.Dark.]

i dont think that kind of strong steel wiring for tubeless bike tires similar to automotive tires will ever come to bikes. You have to use a machine to get those automotive tires off and on in a tire shop. There is no way we will have that kind of tech for a simple bike tire. The only way to solve tubeless on road is to keep developing better sealant over time or we just keep using tubes and clinchers.

[@paulsampson7918]

Top tier advice, thanks!

[@Justmarcusdave]

Hi can you use Silca sealant with a tyre liner?

[@DiegoJimenez-zf1rs]

Great advice Josh!

[@punkers90]

Can you list some models of tubeless tires that don't need sealant? Every tire I see for sale is tubeless ready.

[@SILCAVelo]

The only company I know of currently making true tubeless tires is CADEX, those things bead up great and hold air really well.. now they aren't the fastest tires around, but super simple. Pretty much every other company has moved to Tubeless Ready and requires sealant.. it makes sense when you consider that the tires are much lighter, probably easier to manufacture, and will test better in independent rolling resistance testing. Hutchinson and Mavic both made tires that don't need sealant under the UST technology years ago, but they were heavy and slow and never really adopted widely.

[@punkers90]

@@SILCAVelo Excellent response. I'm so much more informed because of this channel. Thanks!

[@buzzman4860]

Wow. Thanks

[@oddknack]

oil on inside of valve, thanks for the tip. Would the valve core then be at risk of coming loose eg when using a hand pump with a screw on adapter?

[@Felix521]

Thanks for the great video. One questions that remains for me (excuse if this was answered) - when using the tire pressure calculator and measuring width - at which psi do I initially measure? 2 or 3 bars make a big difference. Thanks

[@SILCAVelo]

Measure the tire close to what you think the pressure will end up being when riding, some people even measure, calculate, then measure at the calculated number and if it changes, then recalculate again, but that's really probably overkill!

[@Felix521]

Ok cool, that makes most sense I guess. Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated!

[@chandidas9858]

Thanks Josh; what is the procedure for TLR tyres off season.

[@SILCAVelo]

You can either drain them and wipe them out so you can start fresh next year, or if you're lucky you can let it harden and then peel it out in one go.. depends how porous the tire was when you got it.. some can be peeled out with minimal effort and others require considerable work.

[@liszt1967]

The PolyPro vs. Vinyl tape issue is annoying bc the former is harder to install without wrinkles and easier to nick with a tire lever. The vinyl tape (used by many major brands, BTW, including DT and Zipp) is much easier to install but definitely abraded by your sealant. I’ve switched to Stan’s regular for that reason.