Please don't add "fragrance" all artificial fragrancies are horrible. If possible I always avoid those products.

I get why moving to the big sprocket opens and closes the links. I don’t get why applying lube to specific spot matters: the chain goes around multi times and that distributes it through all the links surfaces. Ok so if you squeeze too hard it ends up on the floor 😂. Be gentle.

who has time to lube and wait 24h. I lube before going to cycle. unless i do full clean of the bike after the ride in that case lubing is applied right after the wash. It is not worth it to be paranoid about the chain. It is just a chain with more time spent with it, it becomes progressively more expensive than just changing it slightly more often.

Wow, thank you for breaking this down!

KMC uses lanolin, not mineral oil so that's one hole in the sales pitch

Josh, this is what I needed to start washing our chains. I bought the entire setup and and it works great. Except, I just did my fourth chain with the strip chip and the original wax and the outside of the chain has kind of a gummy wax coating on it. Did I do too many with same wax or... I'm not sure. I've been trying to sub it off the the microfiber cloth. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

great advice, can i use some other alternative oil like other chian lube to try to lubricate the valve? Thanks.

And that's why I believe that chain oil is the way to go and not wax. Wax doesn't flow. It's static. Once it is displced by friction between two surfaces, it doesnt flow back like oil/liquid lube does. Apart from the fact that wiping a chain clean with a rag and some WD40 or gasoline and then applying a few drops of fresh oil to the chain is much quicker and easier than the chain waxing ceremony.

I just don’t get the indoor “cycling” thing. I’d far rather watch paint dry

Thank you for some really good explanations that answered most of my questions, just one more: Can I use a clear hard plastic container for stripping the chain in or does it have to be a glass jar? (I understand that glass is chemically inert so is there some kind of reaction that I risk by using plastic instead?)

Hi, have converted to waxing and loving it. Recently purchased the Chain Waxing System (long wait as in the UK) and really happy after the first use with a Strip Chip and new chain. Even better results than the Super Secret Chain Lube I initially started with. I have just come to do the first re-wax, so at 75°c and even after half an hour the wax would not fully melt. The pot was indicating 75°c. I was doing it in the garage and the outside temperature was 15°c, not that it should affect it. Does the Strip Chip prevent it from re-melting at the lower temperature? I had to turn it up to melt it then back down to put the chain in. Thanks, Adrian.

The manufacturers say don't reuse for liability reasons. However, i had to remove my freshly, but improperly, installed chain. No issues with the QL popping. Would i reuse a six month old QL? Only for emergencies, and only until i could get a new chain.

Is it one strip per factory greased chain or can i strip two chains with one chip in the same round of waxing??

Hello Josh, I am using your wax, stripper and melting system. I use it at 75 degrees Celsius. When I take out the chain it is not as stiff as you show it. Before I used a slowcooker and waited for a starting film over the wax. Back then the chain became as stiff as you showed. Is it a problem that the chain doesn t get as stiff as you showed? Regards

Thank you Josh. I generally clean my chain using the Park Too chain scrubber and Simple Green after 1-2 rides. I’ve been using dry lube spray from WD40, well because I’ve had good success keeping a quiet chain. I’m now trying to Muckoff dry lube and I’m excited to put each drop on in the correct place.

Do you know why my wax is still solid in the middle when I did 125 then 75 please? (and wait 10 min at 75)

I just bought Tesa tape 1 in (25.4 mm) from Amazon 60 yards for less than $18 dollars instead of Stan's $52 for 30 yards. Looks identical. Are you kidding me?

If you can talk about a quicklink for 12 minutes you should see a doctor.

The last bit sounds like a smarter way to say that you need to lube the cogs to be quietter.

I had the cable coupler slip into the wax the first time. No big deal, I used my scissors to pick it up from the hot mixture.

I am not about marginal gains, wax just didn't work for me. But, I do like a clean chain before using the good ol' regular lubes. I won't put my entire groupset in there, but I will sure get my chain in there.

I'm not much of a mechanic, but this was super easy for me. I did 3 chains as soon as I got it. And I have 2 more to do now. I thought I read somewhere that you should only do 6 chains this way before swapping out the wax. Is that right? I so, do I just toss the wax once it's cooled down?

Put the wax pellets in a mason jar… use an immersion heater much better temp control

haha interesting, thanks for the info! Relieved to discover KMC X8s are not directional, as never paid attention to that. Likewise the YBN 7-8 doesn't appear to be directional. Have used a KMC link ?10 times before it came undone going over a bump! It was sloppy as beforehand. I have been using the same link on multiple chains several times, and will stop doing so eventually (e.g. when changing all chains 000s of kms from now)

I bought your micro fiber towels and your degreaser. My question is how do I get the towels clean after getting all that black wax stuff from the chain on them? I suppose I should do a separate wash cycle for them in my washing machine. But is there a specific detergent that can get them clean? Use your degreaser in the wash cycle? How much? Thanks.

After putting the super secret drip wax on the chain and running it through my fingers I see a bunch of excess was on the sides of the chain. Should I run the chain through another microfiber towel or gear wipe again to get the excess off?

Thanks a lot for this video! I have tried to read the ZFC pdf a lot of times before but just can't fully understand those things. Now everything makes sense. However I want to contribute some of my own experience about this subject. Before I started to look into this lube thing, I was influenced by the marketing that the Finish Line is the best thing and for my condition I need the dry lube. During that time, I ride hard, I maintain it carefully, I wash the bike very frequently, but all my DA chains only lasts about 3000 km, however that aligns well with other people in forums and shopping site reviews. I though I was on the right course and chains become a frequent consumerable is a badge for "serious cycling" and training hard -- only noobs ride a chain forever. Remember that's already a progress -- before that my stock KMC chain only lasts about 2000 km or so, the DA chain's 3000 KM is already a 50% improvement and you can't call it unimpressive. I told myself OK I get it, normal chain 2000km, DA chain 3000K. 2x price for 50% improvement, fair game. However, later when that Finish Line dry lube ran out -- that red bottle cap one. I find myself a bottle of dirt cheap left over Decathlon wet lube from a bike trip, costs about $5. I think well, it's better not waste things. Then that became my lube. I'm on my 3rd DA chain and I ride and ride and ride, but every time I thought well it should be the time to change the chain, but chain checker said no it's not Time and time again (I record almost all my rides, and use the "tool" feature on Garmin to track component mileage), the chain checker just won't fall in. I almost get suspicious that was it my chain checker that becomes faulty? No it's not. As of just minutes ago as I checked, it's approaching 5000 km and that chain checker still won't fall in. And what's more surprising is before I don't even know the new 0.5% rule for 11 speed and 12 speed, as my chain checker only has 0.75 and 1.0, and I always use 0.75 as the change criterium. That means the 2000 km for normal and 3000 km for DA is all at 0.75% not the intended 0.5% even. That's what I get with the Finishline Dry lube, at pretty good dry conditions, wash and re-lube often. This is how bad the FinishLine Dry lube is. And accoriding to a lot of people on the forums or so, the victims are huge. And that wear rate almost becomes a new norm. It's only lately that I looked into this stuff and suddenly realized that oh I think I got tricked by the FinishLine marketing stuff and that super cheap left over Decathlon wet lube is better, and I not only did not get the marketing claimed benefits of the dry lube, but also lost a whole lot of the life of my good DA chains! Now looking at all these data, everything started to make sense. The take away message to add, besides that wax lube are the best, is that you can and should get a decent lifespan of your chain, let's say, 5000KM or so, with just very normal very plain wet lube, if you just wash and lube it properly. No reason to let your chain go through the testing conditions, and you can hugely improve the lifespan just but wash it often.

I wax my Sram Quicklinks with the rest of the chain and have done so for years. I also re-use those quick links (and re-wax them) at least a dozen to 20 plus times during the life of the chain. I have only ever had one quicklink fail on me and I keep several spares in the toolbox for that reason.

#1 mistake, don't buy cheap rims, #2 mistake, don't buy cheap rims.

Literally the best advice

Sorry, but someone needs to say true: poor design!. Two major issues: 1) it gets so hot you can't take with hands (it should be covered in silicon or etc) 2) drown with chain - there is no hook or anything which can hold, or just make it longer. In general chain holder (red tower) - it is suppose to fit with pot, but if you want to move or something - they are separate (cards tower :))), and it's not compact - it should not use any space while it's not used - make it collapsible, also cable could be retractable or it should have mountings on the pot. You can do it better I'm sure

The outlier to the no dry threads in our industry on a metal to metal thread I’ve encountered is the ENVE carbon mountain fork axle.

Hi Josh, is it ok to put some oil lubricant on top of a wax chain during a race if it start to rain 2 hours in. On a 8h ride.

Great level of detail, thanks. I really like the butterfly piece, I feel this is where most bar tapes fall down, so good to see some thought gone into it. The slanting sight line finish method is exactly how I finish a squash racket, right down to the need for sharp scissors otherwise the cut line doesn’t go straight as the scissors stick to the tape too much and want to finish the cut too early (the sharpness of the scissors needs to exceed the tendency of them to stick to the tape). Can I just ask, have you any tips on double wrapping please, and whether this silca tape is suitable as a top layer over some cork bar tape underneath?

I can see how this could be the best/efficient way to apply lube onto & into a clean dry chain. My belief has been that applying lube liberally to top of the bottom rung could help carry/flush grit in drippings OUT of a not-so-clean chain. I wipe sides of chain (Campy Record) but do not remove & clean - Is my belief flawed BS? Thanks Josh…

I always find suspicious when there is a strong trend in the bycicle world and even more when there appears to be only a single source of "scientific" tests.

Hi Travers

I waxed the chains assembled with the quicklink, this way it is possible to wax the entire chain and avoid the problem with installing the quicklink and it remains lubricated and with extra protection against oxidation from the environment.

My thumbs up is for your explanation and experience at 9:22 that quick links CAN be reused until you FEEL them go bad. That has been my experience as well and it was well explained and why most of use watched this :). Super happy with Silca wax and the Super Secret lube for top-ups. Thanks!

Doing this now for my first time waxing. The wipes are also fantastic for cleaning everything and getting the chain ready for the jar. Great products!

chain waxing the dumbest fad to appear in the cycling industry. there is a reason retailers don't carry this crap in their stores.

Can the chain stripper be used in a Park Tool chain cleaner as my chain is over 12’ long on a recumbent trike which I don’t take off unless I need to change it due to elongation?

Josh would you apply the lube the same way on a 12’ chain on a recumbent trike with an internal hub that can’t be back pedaled. Thx in advance.

Phil Anderson leading the bunch - nice pic!

Any tips for thoroughly cleaning a cassette/chain rings/jockey wheels on a bike with a previously-oiled, greasy/dirty drivetrain prior to installing a new waxed chain? It has no wax already on so I could potentially use a more heavy duty degreaser than chain stripper as I don’t need the advantage of it not attacking the wax, or is it the best sort for that as well? Any other good techniques?

hidupz I love you so much and watching your videos makes my day brighter

Just on the off chance Josh & Co are watching, I'm looking to get a Pocket Impero. They are so we'll made, I reckon my unborn grandkids could still be using it in 30 or 40 years. Are there any really good reasons to consider a Gravelero or Tactico pump instead? I ride 38mm tyres at 50-55 psi. Cheers

Quick link life is depended on your max power. General rule if your max power stays below 1200. Watts, use until it connects softly, above 1600 watts maybe once, in between 1200 and 1600 5-6 times max

First of all thanks for the great content and the awesome advice you give on your channel. Your videos have helped me a lot!! I started waxing my chains half a year ago and I'm amazed by the cleanliness of my drivetraing and I hope that it wears down slower. However due to the frequent rides in heavy rain, snow and mud this year it is pretty difficult to dry it after every ride. I commute to work so the rides are short but very frequent (~10km one way). That means having to dry it two times per day to avoid rust. Despite carrying a cloth with the bike all the time it's still difficult to keep it rust free. As I plan to do a long tour through Patagonia by the end of the year I have some questions on how to improve servicing my bike while being outdoors for weeks on end. I ride an old but trusty 3X9 Shimano. - I found the Connex 9SX chain. Is this a good choice? Are there any other suggestions for similar corrosion resistant cassette/drivetrain parts? - Any ideas on how to improve maintenance on the go when there are no facilities? (I plan on carrying a toothbrush, cloth, drip wax) The carretera austral is said to have heavy rain for long periods of time... - I used your technique from the other video for the application of the drip wax (applying near the cassette, using the "pumpin effect"). Still, after 10km the chain produces very noticable sound, but it is very very different depending on the gear I am in. Any recommendations? I think I'm maybe doing something wrong.... (new drivetrain, just 1000km on it, completely degreased in ultrasound bath with initial hot wax application, frequent drip way application, min. 10h drying time) Thanks again for your videos and keep up the great work!! 👍

YBN quick link - is it directional? I can’t find any info, so just pretending it’s a Shimano WRT directionality. Any wisdom appreciated!! 😊