AnyCubic M5s Unboxing

[@Foxenkraft]

Plastic machine, inferior or old UV source, I feel that it is not worth paying for the (SMART) thing, I would have to return the renewed M3P with a 12K screen. Although, thinking about it, I'm happy with them having the current M3P in stock again LOL. Thanks for the video and the continuous support for the community!

[@uhli7126]

I really like you videos! Could you make a review of the mars 4 ultra ?

[@J3DTech]

Maybe it's time I buy one to do a review on.

[@hothmobile100]

Great review!

[@J3DTech]

As alwasy thank you!

[@hothmobile100]

@@J3DTechno, thank you. I might be able to finally start selling things thanks to your guide/help. (Resin print and cast jewelry to supplement my teacher salary).

[@mxexes]

Hello, thank you for your video and precise guide, you help me trought a lot of trouble. Having myself an M5S, I managed to get dimensionnal accuracy but pillar keeps failing even with overexposed settings . Did I missed something ?

[@J3DTech]

Maybe not, the ACF on the M5s and a few of the other 12k printers seems to create a lot of texture in the pillars. This can cause them to fail as they are adding in imperfections and compromising the integrity. I say maybe because it also depends on your other settings. If you're only getting the last two or so you may have some speed or other settings that are forcing you to have to lower your UV exposure time too much. Using light off delay (Wait before print) and slower speeds helps with dimensional accuracy quite a bit. This can allow you to add back in uv exposure time for a slightly harder cure increasing tensile strength.

[@mxexes]

@@J3DTech wow thank you for answering so quickly. I will have a try with light off delay and speeds tomorrow.

[@mxexes]

Well I tried with Light off from 2.6=>2.7=>2.9=>3.2sec & lift speed from 45 to 30) and manage to have only half of the pillar (one in third case & fourth & fifth cases ok). I think will keep this setting from now on .(layer 0.03, ET 2.8, EO 2.7,lift speed 45) we will see if it's working.

[@J3DTech]

​@@mxexes I've gotten mine to do about half the pillars on resin that I know can do all of them. After a time I'll replace the film with nFEP to see if that does the trick. Howerver the pillars are just a test. In real prints you're not going to try to print somthing so small and tall. In my normal prints the damage of the surface quality on thicker objects has not impact the success. In summary, when using ACF it seems that geting half pillars is = to full when using nFEP.

[@mxexes]

@@J3DTech Hi , I coming back two months later as my ACF is finally dead. I think about switching to Siraya Nfep and calibrate once again . Based on your experience, which parameters might be impacted and have to be adjusted ?

[@ItsBrody]

Good video. Are you still not the biggest fan of auto leveling resin printers?

[@Barak621]

I thinkg.. not this machine in particular jejee. I got one also

[@ItsBrody]

huh?@@Barak621

[@J3DTech]

I like to have full control.

[@JM-qz4ik]

I didn't know they had a build plate for this model you can buy and manual level. Good 2 know for when i try to calibrate

[@J3DTech]

Not sure if it can be purchased but some users have been sent it when their leveling isn't working.

[@highrise9559]

I currently have a ticket open with Anycubic about the leveling plate I purchased for my M5s. It won't level no matter what I do. The issue is that it won't go low enough unless you loosen the two vertical screws. Then you can level it with the four horizontal screws. Unfortunately, the moment you start to retighten the two vertical screws, it lifts up off the screen/paper. Nothing will stick to the plate.

[@highrise9559]

@@J3DTech It can be purchased. I wish I got the same plate the printer came with though.

[@jimufo1877]

Hello, what do you think about DLP printers? Mars 4 DLP/ D2 review?

[@J3DTech]

They are very accurate but have some drawbacks. The main one is AA. Because there is no LCD you can't do gray pixels. This and their small sizes

[@jimufo1877]

@@J3DTech The Lego website says that Mars 4 DLP has a "Full grayscale antialiasing algorithm"

[@J3DTech]

@@jimufo1877 Ah marketing they are always honest right? How can a mirror make gray? It can flip to the on and off position fast to simulate but this is very different from a gray pixel.

[@jimufo1877]

@@J3DTech I now have a Photon m3 and I have been printing on it for almost 2 years, I am not satisfied that at the beginning of printing the resin temperature is 26/28 degrees, and at the end 32/34 degrees, the UV lamp heats the resin very much. Now I'm looking for a new printer, maybe I should buy a Premium M3 (They are still available from local dealers) or a Saturn 3 Ultra? Thank you for your answers

[@J3DTech]

@@jimufo1877 If you can get the M3-P I would get that. Overall it's a great user experience and a fantastic printer.

[@dannybuscemi867]

I just got one and I’ve been dying to see your impressions. I struggle with under and over exposure in the same print…. Cones of cali succeed at 2.5, but details look very over exposed. Any lower and the cones fail. SUNLU standard plus dark grey

[@J3DTech]

I calibrate everything using boxes of calibration much more consistent and accurate.

[@dannybuscemi867]

@@J3DTech Please share your findings…. My boxes wouldn’t print at 1.7-2.5 even though that’s better detail. I never get ANY of the little support strands….. even at 3s per layer at .05mm. Slowed speeds down to 60mm/s to really bring it down to give it the best chance. No dice…. Full prints still look great but gee it’s odd!

[@J3DTech]

@@dannybuscemi867 I'm doing my first print of boxes now we will see

[@J3DTech]

@@dannybuscemi867 Some of this has to do with the ACF film, the texture will make the pillars weak as it adds break points.

[@dannybuscemi867]

This is with a PFA film instead. Let me know your findings!

[@koroshghanbarzadeh1360]

Thankyou.

[@Colt3D25]

👍

[@Barak621]

arrgg... the fith like in this video.... I failed you 3D Pirnter and Calibration God!!... sorry

[@J3DTech]

Next time 🤗