@@johncook538_modelwerks Thank you so much! It's sooo much work to put all this together. It means a great deal when someone takes the time to understand and even more to comment. Again thank you

@@J3DTech THANK YOU!! I'm a big sci-fi model maker and a lot of subjects are only available through 3D printing. Now I'm able to print tremendous details for my projects. Thanks again.

Thank you!

@@happybunny1986 I have bugs to share on other printers. Just takes a bit to get all the data or content recorded and edited.

@@J3DTech thanks, I've sent off a support ticket asking if they are aware of the issue and if they have any official fixes.

That sucks, I'm sorry. I have sent the data to Elegoo so they should be able to see if it can be fixed in firmware. But there is a chance that it simply cant be resolved without replacement hardware.

I guess for now I'll just be printing without AA and hoping for the best. Thanks for raising awareness on this.

On what printer? With the XL you will often get a thicker raft due to the heat and the size of the part, so on this we care more 1. Did they all print, Yes good, Are they all about the same thickness? What you want is from the thinest to the thickness no great then 0.3mm difference. 0.2mm if you can get it, but some printers just cant.

On a elegoo mars 3, yes There is a raft who appear, so it's normal? But the size are différent from the left to the right, 0,2 0,3 mm différence so it make 1,2 mm on the left with raft and 1,5 on the right.

@@J3DTech On a elegoo mars 3, they all print good, but the thickness on the left was 1,2 and on the right 1,5 approximatly, (mesure with a meter), difference between left and right can be a problem?

@@Kivar1 It's about as much as you want it. If you want to try to level again you can but it's probably ok

@@J3DTech Ok, thx a lot

@@tysonbradbrook1634 The nFEP for the M3-PREMIUM will work for this printer

@@J3DTech is that same has the ms5 pro?

@@tysonbradbrook1634 Yeah they are all about the same size. In my guide link in the description I have links on the bottom for all the things. Including 2 places to buy nFEP.

@@J3DTech i cant find the links for them

@@tysonbradbrook1634 siraya.tech/products/siraya-tech-nfep-film?sca_ref=2644036.MwjqCAnkkr

@@Kivar1 Yes you can. But I still recommend printing the build plate calibration parts after that to confirm your level and Z offset and going from there.

@@J3DTech Thx ! and i can do it without resin in the vat or it must be with?

@@Kivar1 Either way but a little resin makes it better.

@@J3DTech Ok Thx a lot !

@@peterpeter5666 I've now tested a lot of printers with auto leveling, and I have yet to find one that's as good as manual leveling. However, this particular printer is so far the best of the bunch at it.

@@J3DTech appreciate your reply! guess ill wait a bit longer . was planning on getting a resin printer around september.

@@mackbolan1733 I have and they are quite different. The TGM7 is much easier to bend and doesn't have the accuracy of the RPG What I don't know yet is how they hold up over time.

@@J3DTech Thanks for the reply, very interesting. I'm currently using TGM-7 for my gaming miniatures, but I am interested in checking out this new RPG resin from Phrozen.

@@mackbolan1733 Give is a try and let me know!

@@mitchelcacciola8055 Nope, there hasn't been a lot of progress on this. To be honest, I'm a little bit disappointed.

@@J3DTech that's very disappointing to say the least It's the only issue I've had with my S4 Ultra.

@@mitchelcacciola8055 You're Lucky there is another really big issues that's effecting quite a few users and that's the Auto leveling, isn't.

Here you go makerworld.com/en/models/535082

@@J3DTech thanks

@@eddiexx Unfortunately AA won't help much with stepping. It can a little bit not much. You will need to reduce the lawyer thickness to 30um or 20um then calibrate to see any real difference. I'm not 100% sure in Chitubox but on Lychee for best results do HD AA with 2px and 0% gray.

@@J3DTech Oh i see, MANY thanks for taking the time and responding. Now i know what i could test and see how it works :)

@@MijailMusicOfficial Yes and I am told this is required due to the 14k LCD to keep the CPU and lighting engine cool.

@@J3DTech 🙏❤️ Thanks

Yep, and sadly it will effect all printers as they do get the LCD's from the same place. Anycubic are less effected then the others. In my test most of the newer Anycubic Printers will error or crash. I don't have all of them so I'm unable to test everythign.

@@J3DTech Oh, that's good to know. Spent the past few days figuring out what my next printer will be (still sitting on that original Photon. Inherited a used Saturn 2 from a friend, but it died a month ago). Most likely gonna go with the M7 Pro... which should be able to pick up from where it ended after power loss. So I wonder...if this happens and it errors out and/or crashes...will it also be able to pick up from the last layer? That would be useful. Unless it just proceeds to immediately crash again on retry of that layer :D

@@PatrickHoodDaniel Thank you! A lot of my content can also be found on the Lychee Slicer KZbin.

@@J3DTech good to know. Thanks.

@@samanthaknepper5963 If you can what issues have you experienced? I'd like to verify and possibly include it in my Final review.

@@dcshores49 Sadly we are slower on this printer then any other. You can still support and prepare your file in Lychee export it as a . STL then slice and send it using Anycubic slicer. Unfortunately we won't likely get this printer added till next month.

@@Leogk001 yes they said there's nothing they can do about it due to the extra power on the motherboard to increase the image processing for the 14k LCD it requires the fans. However, I'm thinking I could probably mod it and use some higher quality fans and make it quieter.

@@J3DTech ok, thank you for replying so quickly, I appreciate it

@@BlueBirdGTV It doesn't work is the take away.

@@outkast187 I talked about the screen protector but not much. Here is why, I don't use them, I don't recommend you using them. In my review on the Saturn 3 Ultra I did go into a little bit more detail on this topic. The issue, you paid for a 14k display, but the second you put that extra screen protector on you're basically down to 8K or worse. There are two reasons for this. One is of course the more material you have pass light through the more diffused it will become. The second issue is that the LCD is only in focus directly at the surface of the LCD. The more distance you put between the printed object and the surface of the LCD the more and more out of focus the light will become. Because of this, in my opinion, it is better to have a good workflow where you are safe and secure, then rely on a screen protector. In fact, even if you have a screen protector, you can still damage your screen or your printer. So having a good workflow is essential regardless.

@@salilhegiste_live Thank you! Also check out the Lychee Slicer KZbin as well. I do all my Livestream over there and I recently just did a big one. Big love to India as well. My wife was born in Kerala raised in Hyderabad.

@@charlesrestivo870 It's what you get when you create a vacuum. Place a glass upsidedown in a bowl of water and try to pick it straight up.

@@J3DTech I understand that but what does it have to do with prints?

@@charlesrestivo870 If you hollow out a 3D Print it becomes a massive suction cup. Remember your print is sitting in resin which is a liquid and if it's hollow it's a void. Combine these two things and you'll rip your print, printer or fep apart if you don't add in drain holes.

@@J3DTech odd I've never had either of those issues But ok

@@charlesrestivo870 Do you often hollow your 3D models without putting in hollowing holes? If the answer is yes, then a lot of your models probably have trapped resin inside. And this can be rather dangerous as they'll build up pressure and eventually crack open. I've seen one explode throwing resin onto a ceiling in an office environment that was 30 ft High.

I have worfklows to NEVER remove the VAT. Level in the VAT remove the resin without remoing the VAT. The tape I add to the front helps this a lot and then I'm very carefull not to get any resin on the printer. After every I'm finished processing a print, I go over any drips on the printer with Kimtech Kimwipe for cleane up.

That sucks! Hopefully you get a speedy replacement.

@@ItsDaEMIN Faster is not really a way to measure these types of printers. They really only print this fast as the resin you're using and as fast as you're willing to sacrifice quality. There's no mechanism about them like in fdm to make one faster than the other. Comparing the two, I haven't had enough time with them yet, but I will and I will come out with a video. Doing a full comparison of all of the printers and giving my opinions of each. It's going to take a while as I just happen to have a lot on my plate right now, but I will get it out.

@@J3DTech okay thank you very much! but its says the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro has a print speed of 170mm/h. would that be the faster resin printer out there? sorry like I said i have no idea in resin print. thank you for the quick answer!

@@ItsDaEMIN It's ok, it can be hard to see past the advertising. The truth is that if a printer CAN move this fast, for resin there are soo many forces involved that most printers you will end up runing at the same speed. Much slower then advertised to get a good print and high success. Instead focus on the build quality and a useablity feature you're after.

@@J3DTech oh okay! thank you very much for taking your time for me! :) i will look after a big resin printer instead of speed :) i maybe choose the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K V2 :)

I would look at the sonic-mega-8k-v2 or the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K S.

@@anthonyrodriguez2570 .CTB with AA can still cause the issue but it's not as often as .goo. The issue can even trigger with no AA but it's greatly reduce.

You pretty much nailed it. The slicer and help by not having as many gray values. Maybe converting it to 8bit vs 16bit. But this would hurt AA quality. Another Post check would be to look at the .png stack in X axis rows and if seens a Value reager then X of variation to then try and correct it by removing gray. However you can trigger this with No gray, just White and black over X value. IN that there is little you can do other then warn the user of the layer that has the issue and offer a suggestion of fix. A LOT of dev work for something that really needs to be fixed on the hardware level.

@@J3DTech The other thing I guess to think about when working around this bug is the size and number of supports. A dense mesh of small supports, especially if they are just larger than a pixel would drive up the bitrate. The joys of what is probably a form or run length encoding. For vertical supports, you could probably gain a lot by simply making the profile square, ot just not anitailasing the support in particular... heck, it might make them stonger. I'm not sure why you would use even more than 4 bits per pixel. It's not like you are viewing the image, it's moderating the amount of curing the resin gets, an while it might soften the resin some and result in some gradiation between adjacent pixels, I have a hard time thinking more than 16 values would matter.

@@tali3san337 Grid supports all the way!

@@xeraohYou're talking about on the Z axis to help prevent layer lines. But really that's also misinformation unless you're printing a cube. When it comes to orientation look for Y or V shapes. Avoid shallow angles on X, Y or Z. Keep faces and more visible areas pointing up vs down. Let the model be it's own support when possible. All these objectives rank higher than one surface being at the perfect angle to reduce stepping.

@@angelfh3309 I'm working on it, but I'll also throw in the Revo and use the M3P as a baseline.

@@henrykhenrykowski2736 after cleaning, they're quite cold. They're going to be the temperature of the IPA. Adding a little bit of heat with the heat gun is like where you just will put them in warm water to make the supports practically fall off. The issue with using water is now you've introduced water into your resin and you can't cure it until it's completely dry. Water takes a long time to evaporate, especially if you live in an area with high humidity. So instead I use a heat gun. Not a very powerful one. This makes it so the supports practically fall off and don't scratch the model while they're coming off.

@@henrykhenrykowski2736 I lift the metal basket in and out. 12 times per a wash. This will allow for I hollowed model to drain the IPA out and back in flushing out the inside. The action of pushing the metal bucket gently into the IPA also forces those little holes to act like Jets essentially power washing the outside. Because I have the plastic funnel at the bottom, the heavy IPA saturated with resin doesn't get mixed back into the washing IPA towards the top. Finally, the metal bucket is smooth on the bottom so it does not scratch or gouge into the plastic bucket. They still look brand new even after using them for over 6 months.

@@Foxenkraft I'm now working on testing that Auto leveling of all of these systems

@@J3DTech I only trust your experience, I will wait for your analysis

First lots of testing and some help from some very smart people on the Lychee Discord. 2nd Yep, I've had a long sit down with the VP of Elegoo and their Lead Engineer, We are currently working to try and resolve the issue. I just need to get them the rest of the data we have been collecting.

When I use my UV sensor, I get 4.0 mW on the S4U, with just the paper over the LCD, it gets a reading of 0mW. I do agree to use glasses and I use them when I'm doing all my testing. But this test is consistent with all my other tests. The Paper blocks most of the UV. The UV sensor I have is the CHitubox one, but I just orderd a $600 one to get me even better data.

@@franklima it is forgivable at this creeped up on them as we went from 4 k to 12K very fast. However I first noticed this Saturn 3 very early on and I have spent a great deal of time trying to send information over to Elegoo and CBOX to notify them of the issue but it wasn't until very recently that I was able to really get a sit-down conversation and show them the research.

@@J3DTech their device firmware has been pretty ok, but the desktop slicer has been bug ridden for years. Usablility issues like not respecting window behavior and broken crl + z functionality nevermind the random crashes and file corruption issues. If the printer file standard was open source and more options existed I would not be as frustrated. Given the closed file format and bad software it is hard to extend much grace.

​@@franklima I work for Lychee Slicer... it's obvious where I sit on that topic. ;) Lychee Slicer for life!

@@J3DTech do you know if Lychee will add .ctb support for Mars 5 Ultra?

@@malkav_ils We should bit I'll confirm

Hopefully now you can get past it. Also, hopefully sometime in the near future we've got the permanent fix for it.

I seee it on that type of print as well, if you have rafts or a lot of models that stack up to create a line of lit pixles on the X. Try to move them around to be staggered. But also, .goo + AA will make it happen a lot more often.

We have tested this on anycubic motherboards generally it's a bit different. They'll just crash instead of crate the glitch. However, I don't have all the any cubic printers with all the different firmware and given that across printers the LCD is shared. It is possible that there is some version of an anycubic printer that does this.

@@J3DTech it's very possible the glitch wasn't from how the image was being displayed, but the end result was very lasagna like. Could have been something else thst caused a similar issue....

@@Meowcate I printed quite a few different things on the S4U and this was the most simple to show off. No need to make it complex for a video like this. I'm not a fan it takes almost 3 minutes between every dry print test.. makes running the test take forever. I use my S3U all the time but I keep my tape on the front so any drips are easily removed. I also keep plastic wrap on all my covers inside and out for easy cleaning of a static pull gets the resin on the cover.

@@OnceinaSixSide That's a good headline! I was trying to think of something as this video is really a 2 in one. I also plan on making a short as well where I just highlight the ending. Updated, thanks for the advice!

Hey! Whatcha doing watchin youtube, you've got a job to do.

@@JameTek Work work

@@honda1st1 Depends on what you're testing. Just the LCD or a glitch like this. No need to expose for more than a second or lift at all. If you want to test everything run it at exactly the same settings.

it's even more with .goo

For some it will glitch back and forth during the UV exposure time.

That's the goal!

@@snarkyarts8182 I have had it 2x naturally on my S3U both times with .goo. but I'm also not using my printers the same way most people do.