Applying An Oil Finish On A Guitar Neck

[@donaldbiggs9391]

Time is money ,you actually have me jumping through your vid so I don't have to listen to your history. Sorry

[@HighlineGuitars]

If time was money for you, you wouldn’t waste it leaving a snide comment.

[@anacoreta9381]

Donald MINCHIA.

[@donaldbiggs9391]

I said Sorry , Maybe I should have spent 15 minutes explaining why and that would be acceptable to you.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@donaldbiggs9391 Not necessary. You've already wasted too much time and lost God knows how much money.

[@jesseliderc5199]

Time isn't money.

[@1Batt]

As a Wood finisher of 32 years I appreciate your correct knowledge of finishes. Excellent presentation.

[@vaastonline]

raw linseed oil will stay wet for five to ten years? Really?

[@scottjordan5854]

@@vaastonline Yep. I did my cricket bat with it over 20 years ago and it is still a bit tacky!

[@scubasteve4093]

What a crazy time we live in. Masterclass level of knowledge being shared for free. Working on my first banjo, this seems like the best neck finishing method Ive come across. Thank you

[@HighlineGuitars]

It may seem free, but when you consider the cost of the device you use to access this content along with what you pay go online, it ain't free.

[@evanpaulsmithfalconfogolin6147]

Exponentially discounted then.@@HighlineGuitars

[@patrolduty8715]

Thank you sir. By applying your wet sanding trick with oil + 1500 grit paper + mineral spirit, my neck now is buttery smooth. It is smooth like a wet 1000 years old stone on the riverside. I cant describe how satisfy I am at the moment. It almost feel slipperry smooth. Thank you once again!!!

[@patrolduty8715]

Despite that my oil is not real oil, it is Danish Oil Finish, a type of varnish. But your trick works wonder even with different finish type of mine. Thank you, thank you!!!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Thanks for sharing

[@mikeh2450]

Your videos are spot on without unnecessary fanfare and tacky tunes in the background. This 66 year old man appreciates your concise and articulate tutelage. MAHALO!!

[@spencercrutcher5851]

I did this to the neck of my strat project build and am completely blown away by the results! Best neck feel ever!

[@DaveWestGuitar]

This was insanely informative in the best of ways. I've only got shellac, poly, nitro and tung oil experience. You shared real gems here bro! Thank you. The Japan Drier was the frosting on the cake.

[@mrq6270]

What's your opinion of shellac? I watched a different luthier who tried shellac for the first time and was raving about how much he liked it. I have a brand new unfinished neck and I figure I've only got one shot at finishing it right.

[@Tom-in8jz]

That neck is on my guitar the red echo I bought from Chris ! Slick ,fast,AWESOME

[@G2Giaco]

Ever time I built a guitar since I tried this, I come back here as my gold standard for finishing the neck. I love how fast the guitar neck is and how easy this method is. Thanks for sharing this!

[@goosegaskins]

Thank you so much for this video! I just did it for the first time, and I'm currently waiting for the neck to dry after wet sanding and wiping it down. Can't wait!

[@deepanshuyadav5250]

No substitute for experience and wisdom. Thanks for making the effort and sharing it with us. I am tempted to do it on a brand new satin finish Squier that I ordered today. Irrespective of that, glad to have found this video.

[@denissullivan2360]

I researched a dozen other methods. After a water-based grain filling and light sanding with 400 grit paper, I followed this method exactly on a new, unfinished, solid rosewood Strat neck - the results were amazing - and this was my first neck refinishing effort. Great advice!

[@lukegoffkat]

Why would you pore fill a maple neck? It's a closed wood grain. There is really no need for that if it's sanded properly. Have a great day!

[@brannonjones3668]

I’ve watched this about 7 times over the past week. Went ahead and did the thing and it feels great so far, unfinished maple neck laurel fretboard. Sanded lightly then did the process. Thanks for the great instructional, and all of the clean up safety info was very helpful.

[@vigilanceplays8560]

I done the same man, mines still drying

[@neilsmith5464]

Thankyou! For me, understanding the Why, is more important than being told to just do it. Great conversational presentation packed full of info, experience and leaves me wanting to order my first kit 👍

[@DNFINST]

As I was watching this, I was appreciating the explanation of the why. I'm glad to see this comment here.

[@Quantasm555]

So much helpful information! Succinct while covering from the lesson at hand, to tips on saving time and money. Finished with a valuable safety tip. All delivered after a brief statement of his qualifications and relevant experience. I thought I'd be stuck in forum quicksand forever.. thank you so much, I'm a subscriber now!! Jay- Detroit, MI

[@dpdupuis5]

I've been using Crimson Guitars penetrating finishing oil, which I believe is very close to tru-oil as far as its ingredients and characteristics. However, it's expensive and takes a while to come from the UK to me in Michigan. To me there is nothing better than an oil finished neck, rubbed down with wet dry paper, silky smooth and beautiful in appearance. I'm on the verge of applying finish to a birdseye maple bass neck that I built and am going to give the boiled linseed oil a shot. Always looking for more timely and cost effective ways to improve, as it seems you are as well. Thank you Chris, you do a great job not only showing how to do this stuff, but maybe more importantly, explaining why you use the methods that you do. It sets you apart!

[@darthjarjarbinks8953]

You can always try CA glue. It dries as hard as poly, but much quicker and imho is easier to apply.

[@jenniferworley9888]

Used this method on two guitar necks! They’ve turned out great and feel amazing.

[@tochriss]

I just tried this on a refurbishment and can confirm this produces a great silky smooth finish. Ideal for necks.

[@drzainnas]

Thanks Chris, I like your academic approach in all your videos and you might think about putting all these videos in a book which definitely will open more doors and you certainly deserve it my friend. Best regards from England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 UK 🇬🇧

[@drapp1477]

Just tried this on a guitar I’m restoring. Absolutely fantastic method! Will be using this on all my necks. Thanks for sharing this!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Very welcome!

[@Nicky-T]

I really appreciate your insights and thorough explanations of how and why you have arrived at your preferred techniques.

[@gilfunk305]

Lindseed oil 🍺 is a very good product for varies types of wood. Linseed oil 🍺 was and is still used on fences to protect the wood from rotting out . That's why linseed oil 🍺 is a good protectent for this guitar

[@scottcollins5060]

I just got my answer to a question I left you on another segment on boiled linseed oil. So just know I have got my answer from this video. Thank you for your time and effort to help me and others.

[@Ray_Here]

Working on my first guitar kit. I really appreciate you sharing your expertise! Great videos!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Good luck!

[@AvelFantasma]

I was so worried about finishing my neck and looked all over for a good video but this is the one that puts it clear with all the information I needed! I got myself some boiled linseed oil but need that Japan dryer next! Thank you!

[@hoxleyholesoap]

Great advice for the final sanding process. It makes it feel like velvety marble. It works great on tight grain exotic woods like Caribbean Rosewood too.

[@StevenParente]

I used this technique on a couple of Tele builds and the necks still feel incredible after a couple of years. I'm using it again (now) for three more tele builds.

[@rickorr2857]

I’ve done this to a few Squier necks and it feels great.

[@petermilovich4451]

how do you take laquer off

[@petermilovich4451]

its a big job, a layer is thick...how to i do it, with ease? and what grit?

[@Maddogg-hg5me]

Thank you for this. I just ordered an 8-string build kit to build as a project. This will be my first build so this is extremely helpful.

[@michaelbuccetti6138]

Wow! I did this on a kit neck! This works great! I love the feel and the look. Thanks for all the tips. If you aren’t sure, do this. You’ll love it

[@HighlineGuitars]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@kyk3florez644]

@@HighlineGuitars Hi, recently i bought a warmoth neck, should i use tru oil on a wenge neck?? Sorry if i bother you... 😅

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@kyk3florez644 I wouldn't put anything on it.

[@kyk3florez644]

@@HighlineGuitars Really? it will not have moistures problems??

[@HighlineGuitars]

Kyk3 Florez not wedge. In fact, Warmoth say on their website that finish isn’t necessary.

[@tjnugent62]

Thanks for the tips. You can get a much better deal on an unfinished neck.

[@ccchicken8889]

Always look forward to being taught by a great luthier/teacher. Thanks again Chris!

[@BlueBarrier782]

Your channel is such a wealth of information. For a layman such as myself trying to learn some basics of guitar making, this channel is a godsend. I seem to get different answers online for what finish to use, and it's nice to hear from someone that's actually tried the ones I've seen recommended.

[@DreidMusicalX]

I don't know if I ever got back to you on the question you answered me about my guitar neck and what other than lacquer I could put on it? I chose the Tru Oil finish on my maple on maple neck to keep it natural looking and it turned out AWESOME! I just want to thank you for all you do for people.

[@srobert231962]

I followed your directions exactly and it turned out beautifully. So easy, too! The neck feels satiny smooth and looks great. Thank you so much! I will use this method from now on.

[@evanwilliams8908]

Great advice. The safety tips are nice too.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Glad you like them!

[@KRSinDUB]

@@HighlineGuitars Hello there, thanks for the video and the tips. Quick question, how many layers of Boiled Linseed oil do we have to apply to effeciently protect the neck from humidity? I heard 3 layers are required. What is your point of view regarding this? Thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@KRSinDUB Three is what I typically apply. There is no reason to do more.

[@KRSinDUB]

@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the quick reply sir. Would you wet sand with blo and mineral spirits for the first 2 layers only or fall all of these?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@KRSinDUB I would wet sand each coat with progressively finer grits.

[@sheridansullivan5783]

thanks! i will be doing exactly this - to the best of my ability - with my first bass when i get it. will be buying entry level, and have heard the necks in particular can be subpar and lose a setup quickly. so I'll be getting one from Warmoth, with graphite rods, a slim taper, a TUSQ nut, everything that seems important to the playing of the thing, and to be a little more involved with my instrument, ill be finishing it myself. look forward to the process!

[@3cardmonty602]

Great suggestion to use Boiled Linseed Oil. I had been using Tru-Oil for years, but using the Boiled Linseed Oil seems to be an easier process. Thanks.

[@pigjubby1]

I too am trying to decide between Formby's Tung and Tru Oil for a complete guitar refinish

[@bedroomrockstudios408]

I'm with you, I tried true oil, tung and teak, but you are on the money, I settled on boiled linseed oil for easy, economical great lasting smooth finish. I also don't really like the shine on a maple neck of the lacquered finish, Danish oil is also pretty good for body and neck finish except on fret-board, thanks for great explanations and quality work on your builds.

[@MikeCindyWhite]

Excellent! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us Chris! Best guitar on you tube!! 🎸🎸👍👍

[@the_fixer_guy]

Well, my experience was a little different than others here when using this technique. It turned out "okay" for me. I think it would have had really nice playability, but the thing for me is that it just didn't look or feel bespoke to me. I think it had something to do with the fact that I was using black walnut for the neck wood. It darkened everything and made it a little splotchy. Not wanting to sand all the oil off, but not really happy with the results, I decided to try a little schellac on top. WOW, what a difference! The grain and color came out instantly. I used some high grit sandpaper and wet sanded to smooth the schellac then went to some rubbing compound followed with some polishing compound and got to a REALLY thin coat of schellac, but pretty polished and I am beyond pleased with the results. I am trying to model my instrument based on some really fine vintage guitars I have played over the years incorporating the best elements of the best guitars and this technique gave the black walnut a very similar feel to an old Les Paul Special that I was hoping to emulate the neck of. Really turned the black walnut into an aged mahogany feel if you can believe it! Thanks for the good advice, definitely not knocking it since it got me to the result I wanted just wanted to share my experience with it in case anyone else experiences the same thing I did with it.

[@HighlineGuitars]

This is why I tell people over and over and over and over to test on scrap.

[@the_fixer_guy]

@@HighlineGuitars Definitely should always test I agree. Fully admit I got a little lazy on that. Lesson learned, but still pleased with the "happy accident".

[@terryo9838]

Awesome video Chris. Really great tutorial and advice.

[@gilsonmartins5600]

We're happy to have people like you willing to share tacit knowlodge. I enjoyed all the information, including the reasons why to use this or that.

[@johnbarber3499]

Thank You so much, as I bought a Lentz beautiful guitar, and was afraid I would screw it up, but couldn't stand the Nitro finish as it was sticky, and its 2006 was when it was built, anyway what you have done is exactly what I wanted to do on the surfaces where my hands are, so they don't stick. You have given me the tools to do the job right. Thanks for sharing I subscribed to your channel as you are a pro.

[@JoeKyser]

I'm a 3rd generation finisher and tung oil has been the go to. I'm not scared to try new things though. I'm going to give the boiled linseed oil a shot

[@ebandcamp]

Thanks ! I learned something . Gonna get an LP kit and wanted to get tung oils and what not but boiled linseed sounds better !

[@riklionheart23]

Just been sanding back the finish on my Strat neck. I oiled and wet sanded it, thanks to your great directions and advice. The neck is amazingly smooth and the hairline cracks that were in the previous finish (as received from the previous owner) are gone. An amazing transformation! Thank you!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Fantastic! I love hearing good results with this technique. Thanks!!

[@riklionheart23]

@@HighlineGuitars Do you ever apply a wax finish as other youtubers recommend?

[@DuaneForrester]

Excellent, as always! Thank you! Definitely gonna try this as I’ve been considering how to get more Tru Oil. This looks like a nice alternative with attractive results. 👍👍

[@pigjubby1]

Getting Tru Oil is California is tough. Mail only and many won't send it.

[@DuaneForrester]

@@pigjubby1 I’ve had some luck with Amazon last year. Not sure about right now, however. Sigh. Maybe I’ll just drive to Las Vegas.

[@prophetsbourne1136]

I just found your Channel and am blown away by the detail in which you explain the process of your work! I am waiting for my first quart of Solarez! Thank you Sir!

[@gdfxhfgxujhxdj]

Thank you master ,,,from korea,,

[@BrantleyAllen]

I've ordered a neck I'm planning to oil finish. My first one. Thank you for the tutorial!

[@bassdale17]

very instructive for a newbie, keep up the good work.

[@FranciscoGarcia-yt2jm]

I’m not a pro by any stretch of the Imagination, but I did follow these advice to finish my warmoth neck, and it looks amazing, and it feels soft as balls. If you’re thinking about doing this. DO IT.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Great to hear!

[@danielwiebe2123]

Take a drink every time he says “boiled linseed oil.”

[@williamcanavan7085]

Oh that was a bad idea…🤪🤣🤣🤣

[@whiteshedrecordings]

22 drinks.

[@Ais4Drew]

Boyald lihn seeëd ohl. All seriousness though I learned a ton from this video. And comments like these just add to the charm!

[@madsam7582]

This is an interesting way to wake up in the E.R, we call it the B.L.O job!

[@LogicalQ]

Hiccup* oiled binseed loil

[@lukegoffkat]

Thanks for the wonderful teaching moment! I'm doing this right now! I've just finished with the first step of oiling it up. If this works so well, I might actually sand off the finish on a few other of my guitars and do this. A non-sticking neck is important and this sounds better than a mat finish lacquer that I was going to use.

[@chipperfos]

Great Video Chris … Can Boiled Linseed Oil be used on the fretboard of a totally unfinished Maple Neck ….. !!!!!!!!!

[@MixingGBP]

Wow, looks impressive. Love the simplicity of applying the oils.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@MixingGBP]

@@HighlineGuitars what is your opinion about applying General Finishes Arm R Seal to a neck? I made a step stool from maple and used this finish and love it, but I have not thought about using it for a neck or body yet.

[@tandersen25]

Exactly the video I needed for working on my first kit! One question though, can I use the same boiled linseed oil for a rosewood fretboard or would it be best to buy some lemon oil? Many thanks, awesome videos!

[@HighlineGuitars]

I use boiled linseed oil on my Rosewood fretboards all the time. You can also use lemon oil as well if you want to buy yet another product.

[@6xcchamber971]

What a wealth of knowledge I am learning from you, THANK YOU! I am considering the X carve and I will be starting my own Guitar build soon, Bradley

[@darpope2752]

I'm about ready to finish an oak neck/fretboard, with the frets already installed. I love how easy and simple this seems... just one question- Should I 1) tape over the frets, 2) polish the frets after everything dries, or 3) ignore the bit of dry oil, because my playing the guitar, will magically make everything okay?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No need to tape off the frets. You can simply wipe the oil off of them.

[@darpope2752]

@@HighlineGuitars Thank you for the reply! This SEEMS foolproof, so I'm gonna give it a try. If I'm successful, it will be certified "idiotproof". Wish me luck!

[@rothbekirkendall7756]

I just did it , with a cheap guitar neck. ... And Wow!! You are the man!... Yeah, prep helps, but I couldn't believe this neck could look so amazing. Gonna listen to everything you say!!!!! Thanks

[@HighlineGuitars]

Glad it helped!

[@tbdog99]

Can you use the linseed oil over a waterslide decal?

[@ranman58635]

341 you speak of making your own varnish. Bravo! Made a believer out of my auto painter friend. It worked so well with the poly and mineral spirits. I recently did add the blo but I'm not sure yet, it's drying I think. Lol! I may have got the mixture a little thicker on the blo. It's fall so I'll be careful. It looks like glass though and I used a tee shirt. Blew him away! You know, another thing I do is go watch woodworking video's too. Helps me to understand the essentials of woodworking and I grasp this better now.

[@WarmachineCAN]

Hey Chris, LOVE all your videos! Thank you for all the super helpful content and tips! Quick question...Would you recommend using this particular technique on a raw maple fretboard?

[@brianroach1993]

The neck off my 1988 maple MIJ Fender Strat (gifted after both my son-in-law and his son , both metalheads, used it) is detached from its body for the first time , tuners stripped, taped off for a neck cabinet scraper/ Scotch Brite rub prior to a boiled linseed finish that you've sold me on in your video. My wife, a successful artist /author has a tin of boiled linseed oil so its right here and now. The OEM "Blackie " body was somehow incredibly intact, but the neck could have been used to repel the Brits in the War of 1812 (I exaggerate) but nicked up enough to want to refinish. The fret wear was enough to cause me to buy the gear to level and dress them, the OEM Wilkinson bridge plate has new Graphtech saddles and I decided to refinish the neck because I can. I like playing this guitar. I have others....so i have the time. I've already replaced the electrics (Texas Specials, Bourne harness) and the saddles (Graphtech) into OEM Wilkinson bridge plate and have a Graphtech nut to swap in when I'm done. This is where I need your advice. The Fretboard is honestly relic'd by hard play 1-6 from frets 1-8 to bare wood and then some slight divot wood loss, a bit grainy. The frets 8-12 from 6-4 show less grain wear so I am considering a razor scrape to bare wood for frets 1-12 and then a boiled linseed finish both neck and fretboard, complete with Japan Drier prep. The "road worn" hype is OK, I don't object to it but prefer I a clean looking pro instrument in top shape. The Q is this: Do you think the linseed will hold up on the fretboard? I have 4 guitars: only one I've approached fretboard finish on is a 1953 Martin 0-18 and that was with lemon oil, no complaints. CAN I DO BOTH SIDES of that maple neck with boiled linseed and wake with a big smile??

[@HighlineGuitars]

If it has a Maple fretboard, use lacquer.

[@natelivingston5528]

Thank you so much for posting this video! Helped me tremendously! The only question I have is do you oil the fretboard also? I hear you don’t have to. Just want to hear your take. Again thanks for this great video.

[@cohenalbertb]

Yes wondering that also. Can you finish the fretboard the same way? Thanks!

[@0Imtheslime0]

You probably can but shouldn't. Rosewood, and Pao Ferro as well already has plenty of, let's call it natural oil in it. It only needs moist water to brighten it up, but that dries up fast, that is why products are invented for rosewood that has not 100% oil but more deluted type. The oil is in there to keep it long lasting. So Lemon Oil products are preferred. Lemon oil is a very thin solution. Not too oily so it makes your fretboard sticky. But the best just for moisturising the rosewood is the purest mineral oil you can find.. You can find those in beauty shops (not kidding go in there and ask for the purest they have). Even Olive oil i used without problem. I have seen rosewood that is finished to a half-way shiny finish with lackquer at home, all in all i think it looks terrible. NO finish is best.

[@johnnybeard4445]

Great video. I did the boiled linseed oil as per your video and now I’ve got a badass bass neck

[@carlpimblett8628]

Thanks for the great info and sharing your breadth of experience. One question is can this be applied equally on tempered / torrefied wood, which I assume does not absorb in quite the same way due to crystalization of the natural oils closing up the wood's "pores"? Thanks.

[@gregjohnson373]

Great video, thank you for giving us your knowledge and wisdom for free, much appreciated.

[@yjmsrv]

Great video- as others have noted. Quick question though- how would you compare Danish Oil (which I like because of the fast dry time) and Shellac (which I also like for it's dry time and amber darkening nature) to the Boiled linseed oil?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Danish oil is a mix of BLO, pigment, varnish (usually polyurethane), and solvent. It soaks into the wood very well, but doesn't build up for a high gloss shine. BLO does the same thing, but without pigment or the added protection of added polyurethane. Shellac can build for a high gloss shine, but it doesn't protect against alcohol.

[@yjmsrv]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the quick response! I went with Danish oil last night- -not concerned about a gloss shine- I like the feel and texture of a raw neck but want to protect it- so this was perfect. I watched another of your videos about all the different finishes after I posted this so went ahead and tried the Danish oil- worked great and didn't darken the neck much at all. Great feel- very smooth and clean-

[@yjmsrv]

@@HighlineGuitars How many coasts of Danish oil would you recommend I put on my neck? I have one decent on now- feels really good- but I want to make sure it's really sealed.

[@lochlanwall210]

Great video. Boiled linseed oil worked a treat. 100% recommended. Cheers!

[@gmd1417]

Great video, how long will the boiled linseed oil last on a typical guitar neck that's played every day? Thanks!

[@TheNCGardener]

I have watched this a few times. I am going to try this technique out on my P bass build in a week or so and will post how it turned out.

[@jugheadjones5458]

Do you ever buff a neck you’ve treated with Linseed Oil?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Yes. I have buffed necks after applying BLO by wet sanding it from 600 to 1,500 grit to get a surface that's a bit shinier. However, they will never shine as well as if they had been top coated with lacquer or Tru Oil.

[@bainedragomir6484]

Wanted to say thank you. Very helpful and detailed info saved me alot of time and bs.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I’m glad to hear that, Baine. Hope it helps.

[@onpsxmember]

How long will the boiled linseed oil finish last? I never had an oil finished neck. Me personally, I see guitars like oldtimers and always want them to be in great condition. How often would you recommend a touch up so the wood won't get any unpleasent discolourations? Any pointers on the climate? How will the finish behave, will it yellow quicker? Is there another name for that japanese dryer? I think you mentioned it in an older video. What's your next favourite finish in line? Are there any woods that don't take oil finishes well? Thumbs up for the savety warning...14000 fires by spontaneous combustion/chemical reaction betwenn 05-09.

[@xfup]

At least once a year. BLO Isn't exactly the best product to use on wood. These chemicals are actually Kobalt which is a heavy metal. At least 1 person has died from an overdose of Kobalt because the warning is on the can and on line.... you can thin raw linseed oil so it dries much quicker.

[@onpsxmember]

@@xfup Well, then buy one with mangenese as metal soap dryer. There isn't enough in there to be toxic. The raw linseed oil can turn rancid and it doesn't cure forever, that's why it's used by painters for their colours.

[@xfup]

onpsxmember it won't go rancid... linseed oil is produced in a manor that removes the fat that causes it to go rancid. Flaxseed oil will go rancid but linseed oil will not...

[@137NorthAve]

I did this on my Carvin Bolt rebuild and it turned out great. Doing my second rebuild today and will use same technique.

[@SalvvOrtiz]

Can I dye the wood before finish it with the oil?

[@briang5586]

Thanks

[@nathancourtney2006]

Just wanted to thank you for your time. I've watched several of your videos. Always informative and I enjoy the content.

[@THAxILLEST]

Did anyone realize how many times he says boiled linseed oil?

[@paulevans4334]

And boy can he talk. He doesn't get to putting on any linseed oil up until 9:39

[@marcolandolfi844]

Paul Evans you can skip the talk but this is one of the most informative video I ever watched. And clearly being from a pro. And for free.

[@THAxILLEST]

@@paulevans4334 I have dreams of just being drenched in boiled lin seed oil since watching this video

[@larryh7202]

and yet at least some viewers will buy raw linseed oil, lol

[@siv.blok1984]

I'm definitely going to try this when I get my bullet mustang. Thanks!

[@GregCutler-px5ee]

Definitely, thanks so much for all the help!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Happy to help!

[@ArkRed1]

Nice idea. I'm going to try this on a bare Tele neck I've got. I too used to use Tru-Oil, but am disappointed with results I'm getting. Mainly because it's usually outdated. The company has sold out or moved its operation to Texas, and the formula is not as forgiving as it used to be. It's best to use your linseed oil idea. I'll do it a few days before the trash people show up, and will soak down the rags. I've done this, and it's a good way to dispose of them. No oxygen and a water bath in a coffee can and no problem with a fire hazard. Thanks for posting this.

[@geraldmyers6618]

This is a art we can't let leave us, thank you for the video.

[@xaviermontegue5289]

... and a fire safety lesson to boot. You're awesome! Thanks for helping me understand this process for my first ever build.

[@assemblyghost]

Thank you for the fire hazard safety tip, you just might saved my future me from burning my house down. :) I didn't know about that drying oil generates heat. Also saying that it's not a good idea to build up multiple coats for achieve gloss shine on the neck probably saved me from some headaches, because I was thinking about how nice it would look. It make sense now it would be likely to sticking. I am about to make from a cheap, scratched bass to something really beautiful bad (b)ass art with a deep cherry color that shows the beauty of the wood pattern with some very high gloss and a proper set up, your videos are a huge help to get some idea how to do things and how to avoid mistakes.

[@scottcollins1122]

I have a brand new maple neck that I am going to use that technique on it and see how well it works out for me. Thanks for the lesson.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Good luck!

[@scottcollins1122]

@@HighlineGuitars I am going for a teal color with slightly darkened edges. The center will be a very light cream color. I think it will be great. Will send pics.

[@adambrockman4108]

I followed your approach on two necks. The initial results are great. However, after about 20 hours of use I am seeing a lack of ruggedness in terms of just standing up to ordinary hand oils relative to a satin nitro finish. I definitely appreciate the speed and ease of application but I think the critics who say the oil finish lack ruggedness do have a point.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Try Polymerized Tung Oil.

[@2dazetake]

Nice tip, I was looking for something to cover a cheap guitars neck,that is totally unfinished,just happened to already have boiled linseed oil,I've used it on rosewood fretboards, that are dried out, looks like it adds just a perfect amount of tint,and leaves a nice shine of simi gloss, thanks for the video.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Glad I could help!

[@shrewdarc9934]

Great Vid... That is the proper way to finish a guitar neck in my opinion. I have been doing this method for years and Linseed Oil is my favorite finish for guitar necks hands down.

[@rothbekirkendall7756]

Hey,Brother. You know ,the deal!!!! outstanding,man!!!

[@TheChef470]

Beautifully done and thank you for reminding me about the spent rags. : )

[@HighlineGuitars]

You are so welcome!

[@lurklingX]

*this was great, thanks!!! now to try and find what to do if you need just a touuuuuuch of color.* got a guitar off of reverb and man this neck is SO unfinished. seller said he likes the feel of this sort of wood and swapped the neck, but... idk can't imagine wanting to play on it how it is at the moment. it also looks cheap as hell lol. thinking to try my hand at upgrading dot inlays while i'm at it. oof. - roll fret ends - roll edge of fingerboard - inlays? - sanding whole thing for sure - oil finish geez. i mean it's SO unfinished though. and i can see in my minds eye how sweet it'll look done. i DO like the lighter color (fingerboard is same, no additional color on it.) with the pale yellow body guitar. i just wanna make it shine. :) btw, that d-bag who complained about the length of the vid? fkk him. for gods sake, EVERYTHING you were talking about was relevant. i mean, i get where he's coming from with regard to some vids on youtube, but not this. idk what his problem is. trolls gonna troll, i guess. i love your vids. only time i check out is when suddenly you use the big guns like a buffing wheel. (it's cool info but no way will i have access to specialized stuff like that. trying to do things by hand. or screwdriver, lol.) trying to learn as much as i can and justify upgrades like that IF i can somehow start making coin. i'm sure it's where everybody starts, right?

[@greenman7yyy]

Thank you. I very much enjoyed how explained the employment of conflicting wood cells .)

[@Allistar]

Excellent science in the part of the instrument we handle most.

[@basilreardon5783]

I thank your detailed explanation of your diferent product use . I'm a part-time Luthier when im not away working . You assisted me greatly customizing my current guitar collection . Bravo

[@HighlineGuitars]

Great to hear!

[@hijmestoffels5171]

Boiled linseed oil is great stuff. I have even used it to revive the dull synthetic counter top in my kitchen, after trying other products without success.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I used tung oil with a spoonful of pure sandalwood oil in it just for the aroma, when I play the guitar may hands have a faint smell of sandalwood. I think I applied 4 thin coats of the oil but I didn't get the hard finish that I thought I would.

[@HighlineGuitars]

That's really interesting. Thanks for sharing this. I may try it myself as I'm not too keen on the smell of tung oil.

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@HighlineGuitars Yeah, thats the reason I used the sandalwood oil, I bought loads of pure oils while travelling in India in 1995 and so I thought of using some to mask the smell of the tung oil, it was the first time I had used tung oil and wasn't sure if the odor would dissipate once completely dry.

[@Rastapapulus]

İnformation given in this video is beyond my imagination. İ really appreciate what you're doing. Thank you.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Wow, thank you!

[@keithbond9423]

I'm late to the party here, but thought I would add a comment for those who find it after me. Even though tung oil and boiled linseed oil may have a similar look and feel when first applied, the boiled linseed oil will yellow more over time than the tung oil. So there is that consideration. For some, that isn't an issue, for others it is. On another note, maybe not relevant to luthiers, but I'll share anyway as an fyi. I am a professional artist and amateur luthier. Artists don't use raw linseed oil. It has impurities in it. What you find at hardware or woodworking stores labeled raw or pure linseed oil is not artist grade. I don't have enough experience with it to comment on the drying time, except that if its intended purpose is to protect raw wood, I'm not sure why it would take as long as Chris says to dry. The instructions on the containers say that they dry in a few days to a couple weeks. So not sure about that. I do know that you have to rub all excess oil off the surface. Hence the term oil rubbed finish. If it's not completely rubbed that might be where the tacky feel comes from? Again, I'm not experienced in that regard. I'm speculating. I will add that there is a difference between dry to the touch and fully cured. Linseed oil does take a long time to cure thoroughly, even boiled linseed oil. But dry to the touch is usually sufficiently cured for moderate use of the instrument. Boiled linseed oil will take between 30 to 45 days to thoroughly cure. Raw linseed oil does take several months to fully cure, but it should be dry to the touch within a week or so per the instruction on the container. Again, I don't have experience using raw linseed oil, so I wonder if Chris is talking about fully curing vs dry to the touch? Or if it's a matter of not rubbing the excess of sufficiently as stated above or something else? As for artists grade linseed oil, they are refined and processed a number of different ways to achieve a variety of properties. The main function of linseed oil is as the binder (glue) that holds the ground pigment together and to the surface being painted. If additional oil is added to the tube colors, yes it will extend drying time and it thins the consistency. Artists usually add it to increase flow and transparency with the side effect of a slower drying time. It usually isn't added specifically to prolong drying. There are exceptions of course for certain techniques. That being said, from everything I've read, the refining process for artist grade linseed oil speeds up the drying time from raw linseed oil. I've never used artist grade linseed oil as a wood finish, but it potentially would dry faster than the raw stuff used for woodworking. But it would be far more expensive so not worth it in my opinion. Also, the slowest drying linseed oil, if I understand correctly, is the food grade linseed sold at the grocery store. Some artists will submerge the bristles of their brushes in food grade linseed oil to prevent paint from drying on the bristles between painting sessions. This eliminates the need to clean with paint thinners between sessions. The slower drying time allows this "bath" of oil to remain in the studio uncovered for extended periods of time before it begins to skin over. Again, probably not relevant to most luthiers, but now you know. :) Didn't mean to write a novel. But hey, once I get going.... lol