Finding the Perfect Finish

Experienced craftsmen and women all have a "go-to" finish -- a versatile wood finish that takes minimal time and effort to apply. They use this for most projects, simplifying their finishing needs. These needs vary, so Nick shows how to find your personal go-to finish from the hundreds of choices that are available to you. He starts with some basic "coating chemistry" to reduce confusion and help you make an informed choice. Then he walks you though a simple experiment designed to compare the characteristics of popular commercial finishes.
0:00 Intro
1:58 Why Apply a Finish?
4:11 Coating Chemistry
5:32 Coating Processes & Applications
8:52 Spray-on Coating Application
9:35 Brush-on Coating Application
10:00 Wipe-on Coating Application
11:24 Surveying the Available Finishes
13:00 Tested Finishes
14:44 Finish on Glass Test Discussion
15:14 Food Safe Finish Discussion
16:47 Testing the Finishes (Method discussion)
21:08 Hope's Tung Oil Results
21:33 Tried & True Original Linseed Results
22:12 Minwax Tung Oil Finish Results
22:50 General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish Results
23:20 Minwax Antique Oil Finish Results
23:43 Minwax Wipe on Poly Results
24:17 General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Gloss Results
24:46 Baloney-IMHO disclaimer!
25:20 Rudy's Original Wipe-On Finish Formula
Nick has gathered high-resolution photos of the test boards and plastic plates he used to compare seven finishes in article titled, "Comparing Wipe-On Finishes." This is available for FREE from the Workshop Companion General Store at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
He has also updated a section from his finishing book on reading wood finish labels and Safety Data Sheets titled "Labels and Data Sheets: Incomplete Information." This too is available for FREE at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
And if you'd just like to have the book that Nick wrote on "Finishing," -- which includes all this information and a great deal more -- that too is available at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
If you see anything in this video that you would like to use in your own shop, you can help us out big time by buying it through our Amazon affiliate links.
Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane - amzn.to/3DTphFd
Minwax Tung oil - amzn.to/3fNHs7g
Minwax Antique oil - amzn.to/3TnZgDE
Hope's Pure Tung oil - amzn.to/3Up605l
General Finish Arm-R-Seal - amzn.to/3zXJcBK
MinWax Water based Wipe on Poly - amzn.to/3hoJM4W
Tried & True Original Wood Finish - amzn.to/3O6sFkR
To see all of our videos and SUBSCRIBE for more, see: / workshopcompanion
Also visit the WORKSHOP COMPANION GENERAL STORE where we offer a wide selection of Nick's BOOKS and PROJECT PLANS in digital format: workshopcompanionstore.com/
Pick up one of Nick’s books FREE just for visiting!
To follow us on social media, try:
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For our non-English-speaking viewers: Closed captions can be set to any language. Click on “CC” (Closed Captions) at the bottom of the screen to turn them on. Click on the gear (Settings) and a menu appears. Click on “Subtitles/CC” and another menu will appear. Click on “Auto Translate” and a menu of languages will appear. Click on the language you want for the closed captions and you will be returned to the video -- closed captions will appear in the language you have chosen. If these captions cover up some of the action, place the cursor over the captions, press and hold the left mouse button, then drag the captions to where you want them on your screen. Release the mouse buttons and they’ll stay there.
Para nuestros espectadores que no hablan inglés: los subtítulos se pueden configurar en cualquier idioma. Haga clic en "CC" (Subtítulos) en la parte inferior de la pantalla para activarlos. Haga clic en el engranaje (Configuración) y aparecerá un menú. Haga clic en "Subtítulos/CC" y aparecerá otro menú. Haga clic en "Traducir automáticamente" y aparecerá un menú de idiomas. Haga clic en el idioma que desea para los subtítulos y volverá al video; los subtítulos aparecerán en el idioma que haya elegido. Si estos subtítulos cubren parte de la acción, coloque el cursor sobre los subtítulos, presione y mantenga presionado el botón izquierdo del mouse, luego arrastre los subtítulos a donde quiera que estén en su pantalla. Suelte los botones del mouse y permanecerán allí.
Our Music is Licensed through Epidemic Sounds - www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
And thank you so much for your time and interest!
#woodworking #wood #DIY #finish #finishes #finishing #wipe-on #chemistry #comparison #Hope's #Tried-and-True #General-Finishes #Minwax

[@squatter3425]

In my humble opinion (I have been at this for 65 years) this instructor/teacher is one of the top three on KZbin. Sincere, thorough, to the point and keeping it simple.

[@CannedMan]

Who are your other two?

[@garyconway439]

Me too, who are the other two?

[@TJ3ttts]

You hit it on the head and it has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding.

[@Squiffy1025]

I look for these types of comments when it comes to this ancient art. And I appreciate them.

[@iancasey1486]

@@MKRM27 Don't be confused. It his humble opinion about the three best instructors. He also stating his background which serves as the basis of his opinion. I do not qualify to form that humble opinion about the three best instructors. I can only comment on this video and it's my impression that this instructor is really good! I was able to understand and learn something that I didn't had a clue about! I like his delivery without superfluous ranting and the presentation was very logical for me to follow!

[@TJ3ttts]

This has the feel of a pbs show. It was done great and has all the hallmarks of being professionally written. With the I'm just about to tell you but hold on technique and was worth not fast forwarding. We are blessed to have you making these videos.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying. And they are carefully written -- with 50 years experience in DIY publishing, we've figured out how to tell a woodworking story.

[@rupertbeara3574]

T Y

[@ImaginationHobbies]

What a substantive video. Much appreciated!

[@OtterInDaWater]

You should know that this is the most informative and easy to understand demonstration of different finishes on the entire platform of KZbin. Thanks for what you do, it helps thousands of people be more comfortable with their creativity🤘

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Kind of you to say.

[@chico_checo]

Totally agreed

[@ctenos45069]

I am a retired chemist who had to deal with thousands of MSDS document. Just loved your compilation of possible toxic consequences, but especially the “Finishing Phobia “ at the end of the list.

[@MH-ru8sv]

As a "book-smart" engineer struggling to get into the very "real-world" art of woodworking I appreciate the comprehensive information given in these videos. The thorough discussion of the terminology, mechanics, chemistry, and theory behind what is being done helps me retain and compile the information as more than just a series of disjointed wood facts or recommendations. These are long videos but in the end I learn far more in 30 minutes here than watching ten 3-minute videos on the same topic. Thank you for your work Sir!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Every art has a science at it's heart; woodworking is no different. Good craftsmanship, I believe, is science with a flair. And you're most welcome.

[@yawnastyfpv6942]

What a fantastic, well thought out and delivered educational presentation! Please do the woodworking community a huge blessing and NEVER Stop the level and quality of your sharing. With all sincerity…..Thank You!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

That is our plan. Most welcome.

[@SaborLatino21]

Believe me, My girlfriend and I must’ve watched about 16 videos about finishing and stains; and I must add that watching yours, I got a heck of a lot more knowledge than watching those 16 videos. So; we would like to thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experiences. You’re a great teacher Sir. Even though I don’t know much about woodworking and stains and finishes, I was able to pick up everything you said on this video; and I’m sure I’ll be using the knowledge I received from you, very soon. GOD bless you my friend, and again; thank you so much for this beautiful video. I’ve just subscribed to your KZbin channel. I can’t wait to see what else you have in your channel. Peace!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks so much for the kind words...and welcome!

[@AC-MAIN]

Wow. Just wow. I have watched A lot of KZbin videos on a variety of subjects. And this stands out as one of the best put together, No nonsense, no stupid anecdotes, well informed, and pertinent videos I have ever seen. And honestly, I don’t say that lightly. Thank you so much, you’ve got a new subscriber!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thank you...and welcome!

[@RR-yh6vr]

You, sir, are an absolute hero! I am a housewife in a 125yr old farmhouse full of old and abused woodwork. I am trying to save it, but I never got a woodshop class (and I constantly kick myself for that misstep). Everything I know is from helpers at the local mill, my own trial with too much error, and the internet... And unfortunately the latter can be very untrustworthy. I came here to find out how to salvage my recently discovered red oak beadboard that had been painted, glued and then hidden beneath wall panelling after the former residents gave up on it. Obviously, its damaged, but after stripping and cleaning, using oxalic acid for the many stains, now I am at a loss. You are a saint for producing this detailed instructional video that tells me all the options and pros/cons.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

During my years as a craftsman, I have brought a good many run-down houses, from log cabins to Victorian mini-mansions, back from the brink of collapse. There are few things more soul-satisfying that breathing new life into an old home. Send me some close up photos of your damaged beadboard through our web site, www.workshopsmompanion.com, and I'll make a few suggestions.

[@peghead]

As a retired painter (42 years in the trade) I completely agree with reading the back label of coatings and still do to this day. I always pour the product from the front side of the label as to not obscure the info on the back. I would like to caution persons on the proper drying and disposal of wiping rags, whether solvent-based finishes as well as solvent-based stains including especially linseed oil. ALL RAGS MUST BE LAID OR HUNG FLAT TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE DISPOSAL TO AVOID SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION, once dry and hard, can be thrown in the trash.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

It's a good warning. Most reactive finishes produce exothermic reactions as they cure. This is especially true of (but not limited to) reactive finishes containing linseed oil.

[@mjremy2605]

Both excellent points and good reminders. I habitually pour incorrectly and cannot read back label anymore! In my inexperience years ago, I stuffed stripper chemical rags into a small open trash bin and it caught on fire! I was so surprised. Learned my lesson. I let them dry out now before throwing into an OPEN trash container for at least 1 day.

[@Swarm509]

0:00 Intro 1:58 Why Apply a Finish? 4:11 Coating Chemistry 5:32 Coating Processes & Applications 8:52 Spray-on Coating Application 9:35 Brush-on Coating Application 10:00 Wipe-on Coating Application 11:24 Surveying the Available Finishes 13:00 Tested Finishes 14:44 Finish on Glass Test Discussion 15:14 Food Safe Finish Discussion 16:47 Testing the Finishes (Method discussion) 21:08 Hope's Tung Oil Results 21:33 Tried & True Original Linseed Results 22:12 Minwax Tung Oil Finish Results 22:50 General Finishes Wood Bowl Finish Results 23:20 Minwax Antique Oil Finish Results 23:43 Minwax Wipe on Poly Results 24:17 General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Gloss Results 24:46 Baloney-IMHO disclaimer! 25:20 Rudy's Original Wipe-On Finish Formula

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Wow. That was thorough. Intro amended -- thank you muchly.

[@Swarm509]

@@WorkshopCompanion Thank you, the least I could do for such a detailed video. I keep coming back to it, and recommending it others.

[@fotomaniatk]

26:56 🐶

[@larrypahl5756]

Thank you

[@rustic35]

Haha. Someone has too much time on their hands. 😂

[@abefroman5191]

I'm not a woodworker but you immediately became my favorite KZbin channel. Keep it up!

[@imwithstupid086]

This video contains an insane amount of super useful information for just 27 minutes. Thank you for imparting your knowledge to the world.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@gabedamien]

I am only six minutes into this video and I can already tell that this presenter is exceptionally knowledgeable and skilled at teaching. The information clarity and density here is remarkable.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@PoeticJusticeSC]

Great video, though I was surprised to not see the finish you usually use in the comparison. It would have been interesting to see how you treated it in each of the metrics and to see a sample finished with it.

[@StinkyParadox]

This channel is a treasure. Did you come to a finding on the elasticity of the finishes and how they hold up under seasonal movement? Just curious. I'll try Rudy's finish i'm betting it satisfies in that department.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

It does. What I used to judge relative flexibility were the cotton cloths I used to wipe-off the finishes. Remember, I labeled each of these to avoid cross-contamination and they were all pretty well saturated with their respective finishes by the time the experiment concluded. I tested my ability to stretch the cloths a week afterwards, when most of the finishes were completely cured. Hope's Tung Oil and Tried & True Original Finish were, by far, the most flexible (although I doubt they were fully cured at that time). The least flexible was General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and Minwax Wipe-On Poly. But all the finishes I judged to have sufficient flexibility to expand and contract with normal wood movement.

[@tungsten_carbide]

As a general observation, _all_ finishes in good condition are flexible enough to withstand seasonal movement... otherwise they wouldn't withstand seasonal movement if you see what I'm getting at🙂 We don't commonly see stuff that's just a few years old with cracked finishes. It's well to remember as well, by being present finishes do limit the total movement by reducing the speed and severity of MC changes, as Nick mentions. Even finishes thought to be rigid and inflexible must be definition be _flexible enough_ (in the usual coat thicknesses used) otherwise they wouldn't last more than a year or two before cracks started showing up. But this doesn't last forever, most finishes degrade as they age (primarily from UV but another major factor in furniture can be water intrusion) and in addition to the typical increase in amber/yellow-orange colouring, they become brittle. Given the small scale of possible movement we see this effect most strikingly on many old Stanley plane handles where the original film finish can craze spectacularly.

[@edtsch]

@@WorkshopCompanion ah! I was wondering how you tested that. Spar varnish or urethane has got to perform well in that regard, by design.

[@ethancheung8633]

Could not agree with you more. After just 3 mins in I knew I had found something special. Thank you for sharing your amazing knowledge with us. The witty bits are quite enjoyable as well.

[@teresasquires6356]

Thank you for your help. I now have a plan for coating some Christmas gifts. Your channel is a gift this year! A+

[@MrGuitarfreak132]

Your presentation is incredible. Very informative. Interesting to listen to. I couldn't have imagined I would enjoying watching a half hour on finishes so much. Well done sir and thank you for your hard work and for making this video and presenting the results.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@Archon-Zero]

I've been scouring KZbin and the internet for knowledge and advice, this is easily the most informative, well presented source I've found so far. You can be sure I'll be watching every video you've posted now. :) Thanks so much. I'm going with a Danish Oil finish for a Walnut dowel contact staff, because you're right, it's subjective but now I know how to make an informed decision.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Finishing is all about making good decisions. Glad to have been of help.

[@stephanie9200]

The lashes on the wood SENT ME 😂 best video I've seen all day, excited to start my kitchen table build 🤘

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Good luck.

[@TonyNse]

The Divine Comedy in Italian quote on top of the cabinet was the best thing I've seen today! As an Italian, that made my day, thank you!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Dante Alighieri, like most thirteenth-century Italian poets, is always good for a laugh.

[@MarcRitzMD]

You're the best teacher I've seen in the KZbin woodworking community, and I've just arrived here for the first time after years of marathoning KZbin

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks.

[@kris1willis]

This is the best and easiest to follow finishing video I’ve seen. And I watched a ton of them! I’m so glad I found your channel!

[@patricknelson]

I'm not a woodworker of any sort whatsoever, just a curious person who may do a tiny bit of finishing work on a particular weekend with a little free time... this was captivating.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@edtsch]

This is brilliant. I'm only 6 minutes into the video and I already love it for its simplicity and clarity. Keep going! :)

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks.

[@JimSmith431]

I have no knowledge or experience staining and/or finishing wood, but a recent small project taught me something. If you want to use Rudy's Wipe On Finish (discussed @ 25:20) be sure to use the oil based Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (as shown in the video). Minwax also sells a very similar product with near identical labeling but with the words "Water Based" added. The water based Spar Urethane does not mix well (if at all) with Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Because Tung Oil Finish is oil based? That would be my guess.

[@rustic35]

That's because you only mix oil with oil based products. 🤷

[@johnbesharian9965]

@@rustic35, Ergo the old saw: "Oil and water do not mix" is based on observable fact.

[@mjremy2605]

Yes, correct. Water based finishes are awful in my opinion. I only use oil based. One thing to note: Spar Varnish has more UV resistance than Spar Urethane but Urethane is easier.

[@davetarrant6888]

Excellent presentation Nick. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again you are by far the most thorough, easy to understand, and informative teacher on KZbin. Thank you for being you.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thank you for saying so.

[@Danthorn76]

Man, not only did I comfortably learn a lot about the topic when previously massively overwhelmed by it, I was really entertained too. This is what a youtube video should be. Thank you!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@elleaubry3772]

I can say I have never learned so much and enjoyed a lesson more on a topic that I’m not even sure why I stopped to look at. But I am glad - this instructor is amazing. Thorough, orderly, not only explaining how to do something, but why you do it in the order that you do it. Everything was very detailed, thorough and understandable- impressive. If every teacher could this good, we would never outgrow learning!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks.

[@ElwinWay]

I'm a budget crafter I make small wooden trinkets. I got given a small bottle of a mix of tung oil and citrus oil. It takes a while to dry but but dries reasonably hard and has a nice satin finish or a bit more glossy if I keep polishing it while drying. It also smells like oranges :D

[@tungsten_carbide]

If I might interject, if you are currently doing the application and buffing sand gloves you'll want to be careful about continuing to do so. The 'citrus solvent' is limonene and it's a known sensitiser, and will become increasingly so as the remaining finish in the container has a chance to react with air as the fluid level drops.

[@thegourmetgolfer5544]

Thank you for this! As a beginner to woodworking, I can't tell you how valuable this video is to me. I'll be coming back to watch this many more times!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying. And let me remind you (not that I'm trying to sell books or anything), all this information is in my book, "Finishing'"

[@link100198]

Very happy to have found this channel! A wealth of knowledge with no filler, thank you for the great content!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome/

[@CraigLafferty]

No fancy video editing techniques here- just straight and forward information. Videos like this are why I started watching KZbin heavily. Thank you for taking the time to make this!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@bocan3189]

Outstanding and humorous presentation on the subject! ..."another door to Narnia", classic. Your knowledge, passion and manner are some of the best I've seen on the channels. I watched, I laughed and I learned, ya' can't beat that! Just restarting my woodcraft journey back into desktops, cabinets and whatever my wife specs for me on the way. Looking forward to more of your wisdom Nick. Damn the MSDS hogwash, I'm putting some of this into my whiskey! Cheers! Carry on Sir.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Those were kind words. Thanks for saying.

[@shudoo8062]

Wish I could be a student in his workshop. Of course just grateful that he shares his valuable knowledge through KZbin.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

I think you'd be surprised at how boring it gets for woodworkers around here. There are long, long stretches of time where any student we might have would just have to twiddle their thumbs and watch the machinery rust while Travis stresses over the timing of a video or I sweat out the details of a script. But thanks for saying.

[@Karelbecerra]

This is WOW! WOW! WOW!! Best tutorial ever ever ever I found on KZbin!! I usually go for fishing and that's my main search for 'how to do something'. But is is another level!! Nick Engler COULD YOU PLEASE STOP WORKING ON WOOD AND START FISHING???? Please and do some tutorials about fishing Tuna, Mahi Mahi in Florida!! Please!! BTW based on this tutorial I will got for Minwax Wipe-On (water based) option!! No doubts!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Glad to have been of help. Have very little experience with saltwater fishing; my misspent youth was all about woodworking.

[@miamidiver7]

You are the Paul Harrell of woodworking. We love all the details and explanations of everything. For a beginner in the field, you have provided a wealth of information in a single video. Subscribed and looking forward to learning from you.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@frelnc]

Wow! I have a beautiful little antique side table that I have been agonizing over refinishing. This helped so very much. Thank you for sharing your obvious expertise. Loved your warm, friendly approach. Great video!!

[@johnterpack3940]

I think I'd go with the Minwax Antique Oil. Durability isn't quite so important in my situation and the depth and gloss it gave seemed the best of the bunch to me.

[@JMcC64]

I refinished some old oak furniture pieces in the early 90's with that product and both still as good as ever. Easy to apply; very good overall.

[@playtimeinfinite]

You are an excellent teacher. Thanks for all the efforts you put into this video

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@ctdoutdoors]

Such a great video. I love the way you break everything down and teach your viewers rather than just show. Big fan of your channel.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@buddhalovechild]

I wish this guy was my neighbor.

[@terryharris3393]

Equal parts spar varnish, oil, and solvent. In the summer use tung oil and and in the winter boiled linseed oil. The recipe called for turpentine or mineral spirits but the latter doesn’t appear to be available today so a synthetic mineral spirit will do. Wipe on and wipe off. If the finish becomes too tacky wet your rag with a mineral spirits. Little rubbing between coats is necessary if a layer of thin shellac is applied between coats. #0000 steel wool can be used to knock down any dust nubs. Stained wood and open grained presents new challenges to finishing but the method of wipe on varnish and shellac sealing overcome these. Also, the build up of finish is much faster and the final top coat can be anything from a French polish to a satin sheen.

[@als1023]

This recipe or a version is found in George Franks finishing book from the 1940's ? I believe. I have used this very successfully on red / yellow cedar for 40 years. It draws the varnish into the lower layers to really add surface hardness to an otherwise very soft wood. I am unfamiliar wiht the large ratio provided in the video, have always used a lot more varnish.

[@zogzog1063]

I hope you don't take this as demeaning but in my humble opinion your presentation, separation of issues, logical combining of those issues, practical considerations (time and money for example), vision of end result, skills as a Teacher, means to me that if you were a trial lawyer (my profession) you would succeed in the Supreme Court. (As for me I am a trial lawyer who has wasted my life. I should have been a creator. I have many interests but the most satisfying is furniture restoration). Well done dude and you have helped a provincial pettifogger produce a better product.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@theblowupdollsmusic]

This was an amazingly well presented presentation! I learned so much about finishes. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@fer41040]

You, sir, are a wizard and a wealth of information. As a beginner woodworker you have become my go-to resource for education and even inspiration. Thank you so much for taking the time. I know it’s a lot of work to both make the content and edit for posting. Your efforts are not in vain!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thank you for those kind words.

[@Micro-Moo]

@@WorkshopCompanion I want to join Scott's opinion. Not only your content is very useful to me; there is something to make the difference: your techniques are well rationalized, allowing for variations, and are the most realistic.

[@johnrice6793]

Another well done, informative, well thought out, classy, down right professionally done video. I use polyurethane on the laminated bowls I make. They’re of apricot, English walnut, soft maple and white or red oak. The luster improves with each coat and after five they really do look lovely. I have settled on the blue towel as my “brush”. It’ll apply the finish and wipe excess off as well. Again, your videos are very well done. I did notice the Shopsmith. Your videos, “Sawdust Sessions”, I recommend often to the Shopsmith User Group especially the, “Setting planer knives”. Good on yuh.👊

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@susan2144]

I just watched this video, I feel like I went to seminar on wood finishing! Loved this video! I learned so much more than what I thought I knew!, I am 74 years old and have been refinishing furniture since I was 10! My granny taught me! Thank you so much!!!! ❤️🌻❤️

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@MrSoorajsurya]

Never been disappointed after clicking one of your videos ! .... Always informative with the right amount of detail for a curious and serious woodworker.... And there's the vibe of trustworthiness that's irreplaceable. Thank you so very much kind Sir.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Those were very kind words, sir. Thank you for that.

[@ncooty]

This was truly superb. It's incredibly tightly edited, yet approachable and easily followed. The writing and presentation are exemplary, and the content is very useful. This was exceptional.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@amosluyk]

Really useful! Such a pleasure to hear the views and opinions of a true experienced craftsman. I feel like I have gained some depth of knowledge, rather than a single opinion/viewpoint. Thanks :) I would be most interested in your views on finishes such as hard wax (Osmo) and outliers such as Rubio Monocoat.

[@1steelcobra]

From what I've seen, Rubio is basically the choice high end woodworkers are going with now, especially for custom stuff. One thin coat, buff it in, dry and done. Maybe a super light sanding and a second coat to really be sure. Then a final application of a ceramic nano-coating product that basically completely eliminates water damage/staining. I'll note too that since it's a two-part, it only starts the clock on it going bad once it's mixed, and you can easily only mix enough for each project.

[@puddinggeek4623]

A fantastic video as always. Very informative and entertaining.

[@able724]

Love the presentation. Love the thoroughness of the information provided. This is, simply awesome. His presentation reminds me so much of the old wood working shows I used to watch on PBS. It's awesome.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for your kind words.

[@-Dwight-Schrute]

This is a complete video! Something rarely found on KZbin. Thanks for such good information and I appreciate you taking what you were taught, and teaching us too.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@csrnibbler9912]

Thank you for all of the time and effort that you put into this well executed and concise video. I can only imagine how much time it took to do all of these experiments and then also all of the post recording video work. Well Done Sir!

[@davehenzel2171]

I haven't started woodworking yet, but I'm very interested. And this topic has been on my mind a lot as I watch woodturning videos. I really appreciate the detailed explanations and and all the effort that went into thorough experimentation. Thank you!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

You're most welcome.

[@stephenburrows8909]

Thank you so much for this information. Last week I tried this on a cottonwood table and what a finish! This will be one of my go-to finish from now on. Again thank you for sharing.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@edwardoneal1567]

“What a wealth of information and masterful delivery” , I wish every teacher I had in my life was like you. Thank you

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@jmack619]

Every teacher , leader, politician etc. This guy should be President !

[@53JolietJake]

Nick, I worked as a Industrial Coatings Rep. for a major paint/coatings company for almost 10 years. Your explanation of coating chemistry was GREAT. Everyone should understand that part because then they can properly evaluate any product for coating/painting/finishing anything. The only other thing that I would add or emphasize is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. You would be amazed at how much effort goes into the instructions that go on the can and very few people read it, then complain when the finish doesn't work like they wanted it to. But, a fantastic video. Keep up the good work.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

I owe my understanding of coating chemistry to the patient folks at Mohawk and Minwax; you guys are beyond helpful. As for your second suggestion, see 19:15

[@peterchessell28]

Shellac is not made from shit it,s made from wing cases showing you sold it but didnt know it.

[@vanhalen5150z]

Probably the best video I've watched in 6-9 months and I've been deep down the KZbin woodworking rabbit-joint hole.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@WoodScamp]

Many thanks Nick for this super in dept comparison. I'd love to see a similar test using turned items, on and off the lathe. Shellac in it's various forms, mineral oil, linseed, etc. Maybe I should be pestering one of my woodturning subscriptions.

[@colingraham9379]

Hands down the most comprehensive and accessible video on wood finishing I've ever seen. That mixture of information, production quality and on screen charisma is not easy to pull off. Thank you, sir. Much appreciated.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@mmusgrove]

This was one of the most informative and entertaining videos I've watched in a long time, and I've watched a lot of woodworking videos. I think we think alike which is why I like these so much. You get to an age, where reading the directions, for example, might yield some valuable info from the very people who only built the very product you're too smart to read the instructions for! Excellent video, as always!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@ReeseCustoms]

This channel is absolute gold for any woodworker, from novice to professional.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@jerichoreed22]

Minwax Tung Oil Finish has been my go-to for several years now, so I am 100% with you :) I will usually thin it out a little with some mineral spirits towards the last coats I do, it gives a nice, smooth final finish when all is said and done. Then I give a finishing sand-down with some steel wool, depending on how shiny I want my topcoat. I'm happy to see someone with many more years of more in-depth woodworking experience also uses it :)

[@appolop8273]

How many times did you sand after the first finishing coat? What grit did you use, and how finishing coats, if you don't mind answering? Thank You!

[@amdenis]

Great, important and useful video. Very well done. I believe polyurethane and ceramic are not water semi-permeable finishes. I use hardwax oil finishes for more and more projects that I do. I found Osmo better in terms of penetration, application and durability than the others, like Tried & True, although Ruby is excellent too. One of the critical factors is that a good hardwax oil is durable enough to use for high traffic wood flooring, leaves the wood grain feel, is maintainable like shellac where a new coat will adhere to prior ones, but unlike shellac it is much harder and is not dissolved or damaged by alcohol. I use a teflon pad to apply deeply, efficiently and even, while getting a grain burnishing effect that you do not get with a brush or wipe-on. I sometimes use ceramic or carbon nano-coats on top of the finish for scratch durability. However, ceramic nanocoats make damage repairs more difficult.

[@appolop8273]

Give this man an Oscar, please!

[@CarstenDittrich2014]

One of the best and most pleasant, while highly informative YT on finishes I've ever seen. I know more now than ever before. Thank you - what a great presentation and delivery!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@sheila7125]

That was wonderful. Thanks. In my early years of refinishing, there was a shop with a few men just like you who would share their expertise and taught me so much. I really missed going there when the shop closed. Seems most of the wonderful small storefronts have disappeared. Listening to you today brought back those happy memories of learning from someone who loves what he does and is generous enough to share with others. Thanks again

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@Dragon_With_Matches]

Great video!! You’re a wealth of information, I’m glad I found your channel! I’m curious what your take is on the hard wax oils that I see all over KZbin (Osmo Polyx, Rubio Monocoat, etc.)

[@avenger429]

I actually had the exact same thought. I love Rubio so far, other than the lack of sheen. It's so easy to apply and looks and feels great. Not sure of durability yet.

[@Dragon_With_Matches]

@@avenger429 I haven’t used it yet, but from what I understand, durability shouldn’t be a concern. It was formulated for floors. I’ve seen some videos talking about durability and it seems that if it doesn’t get damaged, it’s much easier to repair that varnishes like polyurethane because you can just sand back the damaged area and refinish instead of stripping the whole piece. But again, I haven’t used it myself so I’m not speaking from experience.

[@avenger429]

@@Dragon_With_Matches Don't hesitate to try it! It is so satisfying to use, smells mildly like bananas, and it's 1 coat and done. A very little goes a long ways. It seems expensive at 1st until you realize it stretches super far and you only need 1 coat.

[@Dragon_With_Matches]

@@avenger429 I’m looking forward to trying it when I build a bookcase later this year! I’ve seen a lot of KZbinrs use it and it looks amazing!

[@avenger429]

@@Dragon_With_Matches Awesome! I'd suggest for larger projects to slap a white schotchbrite pad onto an adjustable speed random orbital sander or small buffer to speed up the process. Just remember use a little at a time, otherwise you'll be flinging wax everywhere... Don't ask how I know that, lol.

[@smtkelly]

I find the main issue with finishes here on the other side of the pond is our finishes seem to be completely different. I think most paint here (UK) are now water based, it very hard to know what's in a finish and practically nothing comes up when you search for wipe on ploy. Would you consider a video on painting and varnishing wood? I know wood workers like to see the wood but I find I enjoy a mix of clear wood and painted furniture.

[@kingkinyon]

I’ve never been so happy to find a video/KZbin creator. Such a great explanation that is visual, informative, and mixed with great editing to make this fantastic video. Thank you!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@mirandamom1346]

I loved this. Funny thing, I use water based poly BECAUSE it doesn’t warm (or in my parlance, “yellow” 😏) the wood. To each her own!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

I have often thought that wood finishers are like snowflakes -- no two do it the same. Thanks for saying.

[@shanedaugherty8596]

Can you use the minwax water based urethane along with the tung oil? To try and keep the wood from yellowing over time.

[@mirandamom1346]

@@shanedaugherty8596 I’ve heard that you can apply a water-based finish over oil if you wait for the oil to completely cure. I plan to test it out if a table I finished in Danish oil ever stops smelling like Danish Oil (it’s been about a year). But I don’t think polycrylic will stop wood from darkening with light exposure. At least, the color change in some maple I used polycrylic on maybe nine months ago is intense.

[@williamwalters3796]

Currently I just slap water based poly on everything,. Probably going to change that up after watching this 😂

[@MyGrowthRings]

Nick, another great one! Arm-R-Seal has been my go-to since the 90’s but you are right that it does take some work. I use it on table tops to ensure a beautiful yet durable finish. Scott

[@coppulor6500]

any tips for a newb? just got a quart.

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@coppulor6500 it depends upon what you are finishing, but I love applying it with a lint free rag.

[@grahamjeeves491]

Finished watching the video now. Thank you, so detailed, with the amount of in-depth research and material prep, you really do go the extra mile to give the best revue.. Thanks again.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@danwaters303]

I love your videos. Filled with great information and delight!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks.

[@bobjustice8014]

Simply the best, most interesting, and likable delivery of amazing woodworking content I've ever seen. I can not get enough of your videos.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@bradleytuckwell4854]

As a beginner your so right it is confusing and now when I think about every woodworking channel on KZbin does have there on flavour to what they apply on there projects.So thanks for your great review I always enjoy your content and I’m sure I’ll come up with what’s best for my builds

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Good luck!

[@jimc4766]

Once again, thanks for the reply. I'm always inspired by folks with your level of knowledge and willingness to share. Great work!! Jim

[@mikevyvyan7060]

I have watched a number of videos on the subject of wood finishes and some of those were informative and useful. However, this video is OUTSTANDING. I appreciated the analytical and systematic approach. The content was clear and entertaining so that my concentration was maintained - a very rare outcome! The comprehensive nature of the content was informative and the practical instruction extremely helpful. What held it all together was your enthusiasm for your subject. So I will becoming back to this video and digesting it more thoroughly. So its a very BIG thank you from me!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

And a very big "most welcome" from me.

[@scmaker8506]

Love your videos and the personable way you share information, thank you!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@bearthompson6506]

Really liked and appreciated this video. Clear, informative, and straight forward. Loved the last item on the list of MSDS side effects: Finishing phobia. Nice touch. ;-) Cheers!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Cheers back!

[@KatBaumgarten]

I am so happy i found this channel ❤❤❤ i'm starting some diy projects for my apartment and having finishes be explained so thoroughly is amazing ❤ it also helps that nick is so sweet, funny and patient 😊

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@Sh3LaLa]

You are a fantastic teacher sir! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and doing these experiments!

[@Dr.CandanEsin]

The flow of pattern and transitions of colors on drawers are awesome. Extraordinary forecasting and artistic spirit. Also teaching like the Einstein of woodwork. Cordially thank you.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

You're most welcome. Cordially.

[@richardharrigan6453]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! You're the kind of instructor that all instructors should be! Sadly, instructors like you are extremely few and far apart! Keep up all the good work, as we need instructors like you. I read a number of comments after watching this video, and it appears nearly all appreciate all the hard work you put into your videos! God bless you, my friend!!!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for your kind words.

[@journeyofcolorsdotcom1960]

Thank you for the engaging and well thought out analysis. Greatly appreciated!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@boatbeard7767]

You get a much better result with Tung oil finishes if you use 000 or 0000 grade steel wool to rub back. For best results rub back wet, using more Tung oil . You get a smooth satin finish - and of course you are adding another layer of oil. I normally rub back like that when the oil is developing a bit of a buildup on the surface. Full polymerisation can take weeks in cold weather but a mere couple of days in warm. Until the oil has hardened fiture coats are just adding more oil into the surface but little build up. The first few coats are helped by adding pure turps to thin and carry deeper into the wood. Mineral turpentine does not work nearly as well.

[@Okradokra]

I graduated from Berea college in 2014 and initially worked in the campus woodshop as a freshman. Neat to hear the mention.

[@danclark9987]

Excellent. I especially appreciated your rigorous testing methodology and scientific approach. And then you balanced that with your opinion, while carefully separating personal from scientific details. Great, informative video!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@TN-ec6ec]

Wow, this video is absolutely amazing. Your wisdom is so valuable; thank you! I was already subscribed before, but if I could I would do it a second time.

[@EricNelsonYT]

This should be shown in every woodworking class across America. So good

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks for saying.

[@ChubbyUnicorn]

Fantastic presentation. Well thought out. You did a lot of work! Thank you for the excellent instruction.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@poppamichael2197]

Many, many thanks, Nick, for this excellent study of common wood finishing methods. I have been making furniture for over 50 years and the finishing process is still "hit or miss" for me. My best luck over the past few years has been with Minwax or Varathane Oil Based Poly in 11 oz spray cans. I have the compressor, the spray guns, hoses, spray tent, etc. but that stuff is such a hassle to use and clean-up that I just spend the $40 or $50 required to buy what I need for a typical piece of furniture. I will try your special wipe on finish and see how it works. I also want to say that I must have more than 20 of your woodworking books and they have been a source of knowledge and inspiration for me. I saw and enjoyed several of your videos before realizing that you were the very same guy. You had brought your communication skills and woodworking knowledge to a whole new generation and medium.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks so much for those kind words.

[@IsaiahsBabyDaddy]

I am blown away by the content, thoroughness and the delivery of this information. Simply one of the best videos and all I do is watch KZbin.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks, kind words.

[@dew-drop]

Super great video! I'm glad I came across your channel, it's one of the best on KZbin!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Thanks.

[@rosedcurt2865]

rudy's formula is absolutely stunning. Thank you so much for the education about finishing wood. My tabletop looks amazing!

[@jandrews1157]

The Minwax wipe-on poly is available in both oil base and water base (as shown in the video). The oil based product is harder to find, especially in certain states or counties. I've found that the oil based product is far superior to the water based version. Years ago, I built a knock-down tradeshow booth display from cherry wood. During its travels, a portion of the tradeshow display was lost, so I built this section again. During the time between the construction of the original display and the replacement parts, the oil based version was no longer locally available, so I just grabbed the water based version in the same color tint and satin surface finish. After experiencing both versions of this finish on the same materials, I've come to learn that the oil based wipe-on poly is everything I love in an every-day wood finish; it goes on easy, flows out level and smooth, brings out the natural grain, dries quickly, sands between coats easily, and is durable. The water based version was everything I dislike in a finish; it does not go on as smoothly, leaves brush marks, does not bring out the natural grain as well, blushes, and doesn't sand quite as well. I'll never buy the water based version of this product again.

[@WorkshopCompanion]

We have had very good experience with the oil-based version, and now use it when we need an attractive coating that cures quickly. We haven't experience the poor results you report with the water-based version, but we did not care for the way it looked after curing and haven't used it much since the video.

[@iancasey1486]

Excellent video! Excellent content! Professional production! Humble delivery! I can't wait to hear of your results of future experiments! Thanks a lot!

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.

[@robertborberg6427]

Thank you so much for making this video lately my go to finish has been two coats of boiled linseed oil and then two coats of tongue oil obviously to manufacture specs and then three coats of spray on varnish can’t wait to test out this application

[@WorkshopCompanion]

Most welcome.