This is miles easier than the steps listed that came with the decal, thank you lol
@mantoncustoms Жыл бұрын
Glad to help 😃 thanks for watching.
@monkeypuzzler Жыл бұрын
Lovely job. Nice tip about sanding flat.
@SeanDS892 жыл бұрын
5:15 looks fantastic! Thank you, this helps a lot :)
@mantoncustoms2 жыл бұрын
Glad to help…Thanks for watching 😃
@flowerlepered46193 жыл бұрын
thanks so much for the tip on the black headstock !!!
@SRKanai1 Жыл бұрын
This is awesome, but I really wanted to see the ACTUAL SPRAYING of the lacquer on to the headstock. I have the hardest time finding that part actually shown in videos. They just kind of show a before and after which is great but not very helpful when you're looking for the actual technique of spraying lacquer so that it doesn't look bad when you're done. Can you show that?
@mantoncustoms Жыл бұрын
Sorry only just seen this. I’m working on a couple of videos now which hopefully you’ll be able see the spraying on. It’s not particularly easy to film and spray and end up with good results on both…and keep the camera clean! But I have some footage on the upcoming ones. Thanks for watching.
@rgagliardi11269 ай бұрын
Well done - thanks! Just finished a black headstock using some of these tips
@mantoncustoms9 ай бұрын
Great! Glad it was useful. Thank you for watching
@roger-thesoundofmusic9988 ай бұрын
Hi Manton Customs, I appreciate your video very much. Presently I also try to put a decal on a type of "roasted headstock" (dark wood). I put 3 coats of wipe-on poly (excellent laquer) on the headstock, then placed the decal on it and put another 3 coats of wipe-on poly over it. Like in your video (starting at 5'50min) I then tried carefully to wetsand over the decal, to bring the outlines down and to remove the "opague" white shadow under the decal. I tried that with a 1500 grid wetsand-paper. At the very beginning it worked outstanding, but what a pitty, suddenly I sanded into the decal somehow and the letters in the decal were ruined. I can't understand, how this was possible, because I was very careful and the 3 coats of laquer couldn't be sanded through this fast, because I didn't use pressure while sanding. Could you tell me , what I did wrong ? Would appreciate your advice very much. Cheers Roger
@mantoncustoms8 ай бұрын
Hi Roger, Thanks for watching and glad the video was helpful. Sorry to hear about the decal sand through. There’s a few possibilities for what caused it - 1, the poly wasn’t dry enough to withstand sanding and it was sanded too soon. 2, the decal wasn’t stuck down flat and had ridges in it which were higher than your top coat. 3, there wasn’t enough poly on top of the decal…I don’t have a lot of experience with wipe on Poly, but the ones I have used, have been really slow to build and each coat is quite thin. I’d recommend spraying the headstock even if you’re using wipe on poly for the rest of the neck.
@llllillilii7 ай бұрын
You have to use lacquer spray
@Ronno46913 жыл бұрын
Good video - need this for when I apply decals to my own guitars!
@mantoncustoms3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Cool name btw :)
@Ronno46913 жыл бұрын
@@mantoncustoms Thanks :-)
@carolinastringband3 ай бұрын
I know this video is a couple years old but, if you see this-do you know a good method for re-loosening a water slide decal thats been set and dried on a maple headstock that has your typical maple clear finish? Nothing has been sprayed over this particular decal. I've tried letting it sit with a wet, warm and mildly soapy paper towl for longer than 20 minutes and the decal will not move. I realize I'd have to somehow get moisture under the decal but, I'm unsure if that is even feasible without destroying the decal. Thank you!
@mantoncustoms3 ай бұрын
Unfortunately I think you may be out of luck, when I make a mistake like this I usually just sand or strip it off. You could try naphtha to remove it instead…on the decals I use this will dissolve the whole decal and the glue holding it.
@carolinastringband3 ай бұрын
@@mantoncustoms For your potential future reference. After soaking with warm water and a small amount of dawn dish soap, (don't know if the soap actually helped but, was part of the process I happened to use) the decal would not slide, however, I noticed I could get the edges to pull up. I was able to gently pull the edge from one end up, pulling roughly 3/4 of the decal up so as not to have it roll and stick to itself, then dab water underneath the decal with my fingertip, lay it back down, pull opposite end up, dab water under that end, then decal would slide with no issue. For anyone who may try this method - keep in mind my headstock is finished maple, so the decal slid easily. Also, once you're able to move decal, try to get it where you want as efficiently and quickly as you're able as I noticed after messing about with the decal too much, the black ink - didn't smear but, kinda broke a tiny section off the print on one of the letters in the script. Good luck!
@kennethm.3802 ай бұрын
Do not put your Guitar in direct sunlight after you’ve applied the decals. I learned this the hard way.
@venzaba Жыл бұрын
I've tried this but when it totally dries you will notice the edges of the decal, eben though how many times you add another coats
@mantoncustoms Жыл бұрын
Sounds like you either had crinkles/folds at the edges, or air bubbles. Or whatever you’re spraying on is extremely low solid content. If done correctly the edges will be 100% invisible
@pollia82952 жыл бұрын
Hallo, very helpful demonstration, thank you. Is there a particular kind of clear lacquer spray that you would recommend? Thanks v much.
@mantoncustoms2 жыл бұрын
Glad you found it useful. I usually use nitrocellulose or cellulose lacquer, but I’ve also used poly over the decals. I’m sure acrylic lacquer would be fine too, but I’ve not used it
@geoffreyalder7275 Жыл бұрын
I've used Acrylic......not recommended, the decal.shrunk and ended up 'creased' under the lacquer,had to sand it all off,re-spray,and fitted new decal,then I used polyurethane lacquer...all ok
@rocanrola Жыл бұрын
@@mantoncustoms Poly it's easy?
@Brauschemann Жыл бұрын
It's most likely that the reaction the decal had with the Acrylic lacquer topcoat was due to the lacquer being too wet, too soon, when being put on top of the decal. If you're putting on a lacquer, or even a non-compatible paint on top of a decal, or on top of a different type of paint, the purpose of several mist coats will act as a barrier / isolator between the different surfaces. Mist coats are exactly that, a mist only, and each should be dry before another is applied. Even if 10-20 mist coats of lacquer are put on over an hour, the thickness will not be too great, but should give enough thickness of lacquer for the coats to be gradually thickened without any reaction from the incompatible lacquer/paint.
@JDGuitar824 ай бұрын
What exacly is the blue tape you used?
@mantoncustoms4 ай бұрын
The masking?…3M fine line, they do it in 6mm or 3mm width
@awscustomguitars8 ай бұрын
How long did you wait for the laquer to dry before applying the decal? The next day? Im currently planning on 10 days which is what stewmac recommends for the absolute minimum time before polishing the colortone laquer. And I assume I have to have a decent polish under the decal when I apply it or is the orange peel invisible due to the adhesive?
@mantoncustoms8 ай бұрын
Overnight is plenty of time before applying the decal. 10 days or more is for the final polishing the lacquer, not level sanding. You don’t need to polish under the decal, just spray a nice wet coat (with no orange peel) and don’t sand it before the decal goes on.
@danielwiebe21237 ай бұрын
What did you use to seal the decal before dipping it in water? Nitro? Something else?
@mantoncustoms7 ай бұрын
This type of decal does not need sealing. I believe you do that with ones you print yourself.
@danielwiebe21237 ай бұрын
@@mantoncustoms Yes, I’m making my own. Was planing to use acrylic enamel spray to seal them. Just wondering if it will be compatible with the nitro.