Approaching The Scene 214: Night Photography Tips + How I Use & Calibrate My Star Tracker

[@CJGlynnPhotography]

Looking forward to shooting in Owens Valley with you next week.

[@stevedirector4644]

Hudson - great video - very informative. WRT calibrating the laser - my holder allows me to insert the laser from either end - one of which has a larger diameter than the other end. If I insert the laster into the side with the wider diameter the adjustment screws are hidden as you point out. But inserting the laser into the side with the smaller diameter allows easy access to the adjusting screws.

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

I'll get them to send me one of those and update.

[@thismonolife]

Great video. Move shoot move make an adapter for the I optron and Sky Watcher Star Adventurer that enables you to adapt a laser to it. It's a newer style laser as well.

[@johncallery814]

Great video. I have had a good experience with the V plate on top of my Move Shoot Move. I have my ball head on top of the V Plate. I used blue Loctite to attach the V plate to the MSM. I usually shoot 60-180 second shots and they are sharp. I'm using a Sony A7RIV with 14, 21, 24, 35 and 50mm lenses for my Milky Way shots (Light weight setup). Without the V Plate I would not be able to take some great panoramas. I did have a "diving board" problem when I first used the Z Plate on the MSM, but the V Plate does not have that issue. I will also say with winds greater than 20mph the V Plate is not stable. But for 12-15 frame Milky Way panoramas the V Plate works well. With the V Plate I can merge my photos in PTGui and get very good results. I can't do that with just the ballhead. I understand that new V and Z plates are being designed because of the "Diving Board" problem that Hudson mentions. If you are not taking panoramas then you don't need a V Plate.

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

I'm stoked you found a way to make it work. Again, myself... I'd stay rock solid on the msm with no v or Z. They went straight to the 'round file' If you need to do an astro pano, use stacking instead for that one's star capture with your regular pano setup. Much, much simpler and more foolproof.

[@rrr46060]

great tips as always. I cant wait to use the z9 to get some MW shots , iv already used my z5 and the Nikon 20mm 1.8 to get some really nice shots, i am going to get a star tracker also . im just not sure if a want to go simple with the move shoot move or go with the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack

[@ChapMan806]

Love your stuff Hudson - from Australia

[@DanielDuhon]

Thank you for the tip about calibrating the laser pointer! I've had my MSM for a couple of years and have not used it much because the images were always a bit off. My laser was out of alignment, but now I should be able to get much better results after calibrating it as you described.

[@R.Hogarth]

Great video! I am looking forward to putting some of these topics to use in Owens Valley! A couple points ... for an idea of how seriously people take it if an aircraft gets illuminated by a laser, if someone does it, they can expect a visit from Homeland Security, a rep from the FAA and possibly even the FBI. (No I am NOT joking. We had to deal with people doing this far too often near major airports.) Secondly, there is a trick to calibrating the laser with the allen head screws exposed. Flip the laser's mount around so that the "bright end" of the laser, which is a little bigger diameter does not go into the "countersunk" part of the mount. This will leave the last 1/2 inch or so that is the larger diameter exposed so that when you rotate it, the allen head screws are also exposed and can be adjusted.

[@dougstevens9973]

Thanks Hud for the tip on centering (not calibrating) the laser - will definitely check that out. I have used the MSM for about a year now and find it works pretty well - once you get used to how it all goes together (practice during the day!!). I usually use it with a Loxia 21mm or 25 mm lens on my Sony A7RIII. f4, 2 min, ISO 1600. I take about 5 or 6 of those and stack in Starry LS. I disagree that you can't see you shorter exposures on the back of your camera if you are not using MSM. I have no problem at all. Manual primes are easy. to set to infinity focus. Once you figure out where it is you don't have to look again (though I always do). I also have a "Z" plate - Mistake - Not only does it make the set up springy, like you said, but sometimes you can't tighten the little wing nuts because they don't clear the base completely. Definitely recommend NOT getting the Z or V. Thanks again!

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

You bet. I'm not saying you can't see exposures without the msm. I'm saying you can't assess properly captured stacking frames which might be captured as a series of say twenty individual 4 second exposures designed to bend to reduce noise before dramatically pulling the shadows up.

[@jimfair2842]

Hudson, thank you so much for the video, it was very timely as I’ve not done very much astro photography. I will be attending your Tetons Workshop in October and look forward to the opportunity learn more about how to properly capture the Milky Way. I’ve ordered the move shoot move, thank you for the discount code. You mentioned that you have an online course or more information on the use of the tracker, I’d like to review that so that when we’re out in the field I have somewhat of a clue.Looking forward to spending a few days with you and Rick in the great outdoors.

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

Hey Jim. I can't wait! There's more at www.hudsonhenry.com/milkyway

[@barryobrien1890]

Nice summary, thank you. I have the older msm laser which was fairly well set. I did check it like you suggested. I picked up the polar scope with the laser, in case I wanted to photograph a nebula with a 120 f4 lens. I think that might be the weight limit. I was trying to limit my use of the laser in case of planes etc, so i follow your process with the big i-optron. I put the polar scope on the msm and shine the laser through it to get the polar star aligned roughly. Then I can put away the laser and only use the polar scope to check the alignment over time. It's not as convenient but I feel a little better as the laser is super powerful. Totally agree on the z plates. They are ok for really light cameras or phones, but why take the risk as it's easy to reset a ball head, and if there is any wind the z will vibrate like a cheap tripod and all the work to get sharp stars will be lost. It's also more weight to carry

[@kennethscheepers1616]

Checked my MSM laser and it was way off, thanks for the tip

[@JosephAbrahams]

Any concerns with using a lighter ball head like the GXP-SS in place of the GXP on top of the MSM?

[@DavidVJohnsonImages]

Tried using the Move Shoot Move when it us 0 degF, but the battery does not work at the low temps. Better at above freezing. Haven’t tried my I Optron at low temps yet.

[@glennsaunders7221]

Great video. I have a MSM and was out last weekend and had mixed success. Used the laser to align to Polaris but felt I could not get it close enough. I have the same fluid head that you have and my biggest problem being the horizontal (panning) locking screw. when I tighten it down it moves to the right or left ever so slightly but enough to move the laser off Polaris. I found I had to start off Polaris and allow for the tightening of the screw to bring it back. Not ideal. MSM has a phone mount that allows you to do a polar alignment with apps. Do you have any experience with this method?

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

I'm not a big fan of the app. Hmmm. You're using the 500AH? It shouldn't do such a shift as to cause much problem. Every knob turn tweaks adjustment a tiny bit over such a great distance, but I haven't had much issue compensating for that and for the wide angle work the MSM is made for it doesn't have to be perfectly dead on.

[@glennsaunders7221]

@@HudsonHenryPhoto yes it is the 500AH head. I was using a 24mm so it made a little difference. I readjusted the MSM alignment several times and reshot. I then did a multiply shot sequence without the tracker and stack the images. the staking turned out significantly better than the tracker. But as you and Rick suggested on Office hours today it takes a lot of practice, so I will be practicing...... thanks as always for the help, suggestions and the great video sessions that you do.

[@jasonmordecai8212]

I’ve got an older MSM laser mine doesn’t have the screw pieces for the calibration. And I just tried and it seems a bit outta whack but I will only shoot at 16mm or 24mm so should be ok

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

I think it's just fine for wide work. :-)

[@TheMiniD3]

Question: with the move shoot move/Z9/ 14-24will a BH-55 be too heavy ? Am thinking of purchasing the 24-120 S ............... Gary .........................AU

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

I'd be nervous. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to a GXP. Much better, stronger, and way lighter. Plus you can still get a good price for the BH55.

[@TheMiniD3]

@@HudsonHenryPhoto thank you Hudson , I think Ive just blown the budget :)

[@knowyouryoga]

Greetings, I would like your suggestion on deciding a tripod legs for wildlife photography I own a 502 ah fluid head I use an a7iv with Sigma 150-600 I am looking at leofoto LS 364 Ranger series LM 364 Summit series Sirui 3213x I am 175cms (5 feet 9 inches ) tall Please help me with what you think is the best choice for me

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

Your height should not matter for the decision. You need to consider the situaion where you are perched on a rock and need to put a leg down into a stream or on a steep hillside and want to get to eye level by dropping a long leg out down the hill. For such a huge head as yours (I vastly prefer the 500AH even using my 800mm on the Z9 to the 502 which is way bigger and heavier duty than needed. It's more of a film rig head to do smooth pans and tilts with 25-30 pound rigs including monitors and focus pullers) weight is clearly not an issue. I'd go 324CL with a stone bag and 75S leveling adapter every day of the week. You can see why and get one from me if you'd like by checking out... www.hudsonhenry.com/tripods

[@knowyouryoga]

@@HudsonHenryPhotoThanks a lot for your reply. Where I live the cl version isn't available. What is your opinion on going for the ls 364 which is half the price of lm versions with almost same weight load capacity and save the rest of the money for a gimbal head instead? Thanks again

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

All the Leo legs are really well made. If all you do is shoot a long lens, then a gimbal is great. It's no good for other work though. I'll take a 500AH every day. Lighter and more versatile.

[@ReynaldoSanMartin]

What do you recommend for star tracker alingment on the southern hemisphere?

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

You should grab an alignment app for you're phone and use the lazer to dial in the spot in the Southern Cross.

[@roberthamer6097]

The link to msm goes to your gear page, not msm

[@HudsonHenryPhoto]

Thanks cut & paste error. Fixed. :-)