Apricot Pruning 2015

Pruning apricots was one of the first video I ever put up on the web. Here is the latest version with better camera work than the original video.

[@TheLittleHomestead1]

This is probably the best, most clear and informative video I have ever watched on how to prune a stone fruit tree. Thank you !

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

It is the best Apricot video I ever recorded. Thank you.

[@meetykusch1]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 I agree with both of you;)

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thanks. @@meetykusch1

[@safetysmith]

Very comprehensive instructions Bill. It was a big help that you took pruned branches up to the camera for a close up when giving an explanation. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge, much appreciated. ps, I took ordered notes. :)

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Very good. Glad I was able to help. Bill

[@beverlypous9603]

Thank you so much for posting such an informative video!! I just found out that I've been pruning my apricot tree wrong all these years. Especially the part about the double and triple buds! Thanks again.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Beverly Pous Glad I could help out and thank you for letting me know you found the video helpful.

[@hankli314]

Had no clue to prune my apricots after owning the home 30 years. Books failed. This video is great. I planted three new apricots. Excellent. Would give it 100 thumbs up if possible. Thanks

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you, good luck with the apricots. Bill

[@janie5630]

Thanks so much for this video! I have been looking everywhere for advice on how to prune an apricot tree. I just moved into a new home and inherited a lovely little apricot tree and I want to take care of the best way possible. :)

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

You are in luck. I have done several videos on apricot but you found the best of them. Thank you for the feedback.

[@susanorbach7698]

best video on apricot tree pruning I've seen yet

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Wow, thanks!

[@jillolsen3514]

Thank you for this video! It was WAY more informative than all the books and videos I've scoured through the past 30 years!!! Praying I'll get a bountiful harvest next year.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Glad I could help out

[@dananderson7330]

Great video! Thanks for including notes on tree health, budding patterns, tree training & spraying. Clear & easy to watch!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Okay, I see you found the better video! Happy pruning. Bill

[@debdemona]

Loved the Video it was just what i was looking for and more ! learned so much. I hope to see more on apricots. thank you so much!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

You are welcome. This was the last apricot video i shot before moving to HI. Apricots are hard to find here. Aloha

[@oby-1607]

What a huge improvement over the old video. I stopped watching it because I thought I would fall off my chair watching it. Thank you.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I was the camera man on this video. I made the mistake of handing the camera to son on the old one.

[@alanbair8782]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 The old video-and the comments-still have great information!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@alanbair8782 Thanks, I left the old one posted because people where using it. The worst part is the camera work.

[@gabriellamclellan1102]

Thank you.. some excellent.. excellent pieces of information..👌

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

So nice of you. Thanks for letting me know. Since I moved to Hawaii in 2016 this was the final and best Apricot video I will likely ever do. Not a single Cot anywhere here. Aloha

[@Qletty]

Thank you so much. You are a master. There is no price at your experience. Your videos are blessed to me. May god keeps you bless with good health and energy to do all that.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you so much for the feed back. It is good to know I can help. Bill

[@cristobalpacheco4202]

Thanks for the very good video Bill!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Good catch. Yes, I have two Apricot videos and this one is the best.

[@wildchook745]

Great video on apricot pruning. You explained it well. Love it.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Glad could help. Of the two apricot videos I have done, this one is by far the best. Aloha, Bill

[@tiki_t]

Awesome video Bill! Thank you!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Tanja F You're welcome. The new improved apricot pruning video.

[@youssefgad9740]

Really I enjoyed your video great information Thank you

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@russellniebolt1493]

Great, practical video. Thanks Bill!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Excellent, you picked the good one. I have two videos on apricots. One used some one else holding the camera and it came out poor. Thanks for the feed back.

[@russellniebolt1493]

Alrighty. Take care.

[@russellniebolt1493]

I just watched the other one, 'Apricot Pruning' from 2010. Yea, it was shaky but you had a lot of good pointers about older trees. That's what I've got, an older tree that I didn't take care properly. But this video showed me a lot on how to salvage it. Thanks again Bill

[@chadbollmann4070]

One stop shop for how to handle our apricot. Thank you...great explanations.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you, glad you found the up dated and improved apricot video. Bill

[@tvanbrown]

Bill, Thank You for improving my pruning skills over the years. Since it is the season, if you have the opportunity for future video's I'd like to see how (if) you propagate from trimmings...I know that you propagate just don't remember seeing any video's on it. Also, I intend on adding pomegranate this year and understand that they're totally different creatures. If you have a chance to prune one we'd love to see it. Thanks again!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Tim Brown Every plant has it's own requirements for propagation so it is very difficult to cover them all. Most fruit trees require grafting to a root stock to propagate. Pomegranate is one of the few common fruit that will grow from a simple cutting like figs or grapes. I use this years growth taken in the dormant season. I take pieces about 4 inches long, dip the bottom in rooting hormone, insert the cutting into a sterile rooting medium and place over bottom heat in the greenhouse. I am pretty sure the plant will also grow from growing season cuttings if you use mist. Thanks for watching, Bill

[@dwr44]

That first apricot video was the one that led me to your page.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+dwr44 Well, so it's an anniversary! Welcome back for the latest version.

[@peterizzo6527]

Thanks Bill! I'm in Chico, CA and your video taught me a lot. Best I've watched by a long shot. Will be pruning my two trees next month (October) per your advice, they're both 4 years old and growing like gangbusters. Then, if I can only convince the birds to leave a larger percentage of the harvest for me next year :-) Thank you again for all the pointers. Hope you are doing very well!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Yes, I'm feeling fine and so happy I no longer live in CA! How is the air in Chico? Our air flow at the 19 latitude is an east to west flow, the reverse of yours but we still see the smoke here as it ends up down in Mexico and circles around heading east. Nice sun sets but it is thinned out by the time it gets here.

[@peterizzo6527]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 Glad you are happy there! My brother lives on the Big Island. The air quality around Chico has been going downhill for a long time at least partly due to agricultural practices. With the fires it's been really bad, but same all over the west coast as you know. I'm retiring soon and trying to figure what's next for me ... Fingers crossed for us all! Thanks again for your clear teaching of useful skill :-)

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@peterizzo6527 I remember that dilemma. When a guy gets used to life in Coastal CA where the heck do you go from there? Moving back to Wisconsin was not in the charts for me. I sort of ended up here by accident but it has worked out fine. Aloha

[@janet-Spirit_of_the_Living_God]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 So what do you do for stone fruits in Hawaii? Canned? Dried? Imported? We have a really smart investments advisor that said the perfect place to retire to is where you can grow good stone fruit. Unfortunately, they've paved over all that in the Valley of Hearts Delight, except for the demonstration history orchard in San Jose...

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@janet-Spirit_of_the_Living_God Well, all I can say is your advisor either dislikes Hawaii or loves stone fruit more than anything. The comment makes little sense to me but I do all my own investment advising so stone fruit has little to do with the stock market for me. There are a couple rare possibilities for stone fruits here but in generally stone fruit does not grow in the areas of Hawaii where people live. You have to be over 6000 feet before the weather starts to get chilly enough for them. The Ceylon Peach and the Japanese Mume' are known to grow here. Neither of them are much good though. The solution to stone fruit here is they don't grow, so why bother worrying about it. We have lots of fruit that does grow. Since stone fruit is not a life requirement I just stopped eating it. Even in CA it was only the stuff in my orchard that was worth bothering with. The stuff at super market was like plastic and it was mostly coated in chemicals. I could seldom find a decent commercial peach in CA anyway, no loss.

[@fionahobbs8818]

Thankyou, really helpful and informative video.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Yes, this is the improved version. Thank you.

[@Albopepper]

Great info Bill! Thanks for explaining all of the different facets to the process. I have one apricot right now & I hope to put your tips to work. Question: Do you copper 1st and dormant oil last?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+AlboPepper I use the two materials in combination. When I ran the nursery we would never tell customers to do this because it isn't on the labels. Most nursery workers will shy away from recommending combination sprays because of liability. When you leave the label instructions you are subject to law suit. The reality is that oil and copper spray fine from the same tank together as long as you don't try to store the mixture. It tarnishes like an old penny! Just follow the labels on both bottles for the mix.

[@johanconradie2120]

the most fantastic tree of all TO PRUNE is a guava tree. just three scaffolds head high and prune off ALL other branches!!!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I prune guava about 6 inches above the soil with a chainsaw and then treat the shoots with 2-4-D.

[@liminyao]

Great video! Thank you very much!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you

[@lettysells]

Always so much great information

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I am pleased you could make use of it. Have a nice apricot crop. Bill

[@raenellfelder3200]

very informative video. thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

You're welcome. Thanks for viewing.

[@biancabao857]

Thank you so much Bill. Love a video that gets straight to the point and shares really useful, true knowledge. I am in Ventura county, southern CA, my 2-year old "Royal" is growing all kinds of long branches. I got ONE fruit this year, it is the first one. Should I shorten the branches to the mid point now or wait until November? The branches are so long with pink tender leaves on the tips. Thank you for your advice Bill.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

We do not prune apricots in spring. Fall and winter is typical but Dave Wilson has videos on youtube for a summer pruning system. You can check them out.

[@ralphgregory7616]

Thank you kindly 👍👍👍

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Sure enough.

[@DavidWilliams-ju2ln]

Thank you! Lot of good tips.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

You're welcome. This was the best Apricot video I made before moving to Hawaii. No apricots here!

[@Taylor-vv7xg]

It is wonderful Bill!!!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Taylor 程 Thank you very much. Stay tuned. Bill

[@user-fd1px1qt9m]

+GreenGardenGuy1 I will stay tuned~~Bill

[@danmanza8648]

I thought Feb / March was the time to prune fruit trees when buds are forming but I just learned otherwise concerning Apricot trees after watching this well-done and informative video. I would love to see the shape of that tree you pruned in winter when leafless. So I just pruned my 5-year-old Blenheim apricot tree which grew really fast and tall and branchy, it is late February 70 degrees here in Marin County, California and we're in a drought year it looks like with no rain predicted I think the tree will be ok, it has produced a ton of the best-tasting apricots the last couple of years but really needed a good hard pruning. The tree is just starting to show some flowering on the buds so I'm not going to spray it.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I don't know what you plan to spray with but I use oil and copper. It is okay to use these either dormant or delayed dormant. Either alone is fine during growing season. I would spray because disease is the number one issue with cots. The shape of the tree is like a vase or a mixing bowl. Aim for a moderate pruning every year as opposed to infrequent hard pruning. Hard pruning can cut into fruit production. Thanks for the feed back, Bill

[@k.zekeswaringen2122]

Good video, thanks for sharing!!!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

You are very welcome. I pruned a lot of Apricot trees while living in the Bay Area, it used to be a commercial farm crop in the South Bay before all the houses covered the fields. I don't get a chance to prune these trees now that I moved to Hawaii but tomorrow I actually have a date to prune apple trees that a lady is growing up in the mountains of the Big Island. Bill

[@paulwillis2104]

Thank you, I love apricots and hope to find a type that will grow in Ok.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

The Manchurian types are very hardy. We had them in Illinois and Wisconsin.

[@JeffBourke]

Thanks for your videos Bill. Makes me 100% sure that I really do need my arborist to prune my apricot trees for me lol! Even had a (11:22) SouthPark Reference! Win!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Jeff Bourke I hadn't intended to make people feel they needed a pro but as long as this video helped you make the right choice then I feel good about my work. Some words just don't translate well from Japanese to English. Astron is one of those. Sounds more like something the South Park kids would come up with then a high quality pruning tool. Despite the name it is a favorite tool of mine.

[@christopherholmes6438]

Thanks for the very helpful video. Having trouble finding the Astron orchard lopper on the internet. Any suggestions of where I might find one?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I have trouble finding the Astron online too. Mine was purchased over the counter from Shaa's Saws in Fremont, CA. I have noticed them on the wall at a few other independent saw dealers. I always make friends with my local saw people. Bill

[@SA-zb2gt]

Very helpful, thank you.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Glad it was helpful! Pruning starts in October for cots. Finish the work before winter rains begin.

[@marybwest4360]

thanks for your clear easy to follow advice on how to look after my apricot tree I'm off now to price some tools🍻

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you for the feed back. In future years you will want to try and time your apricot pruning to Oct if you are in the Pacific climate. By pruning during the rainy season you will tend to spread more disease in the tree. Winter is fine to prune if you can find some high clear dry weather to work in. Bill

[@diamanditsarnas7128]

Very professional

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Thank you, yes, in 2015 I was still pruning fruit trees for a living. These days I have retired.

[@diamanditsarnas7128]

Thank you

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Sure thing.

[@ginnybabbitt8675]

Stellar tutorial, Bill. Question -- here we are (in the SF Bay area) barely approaching mid September and it's raining. What to do if rains are early?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Endeavor to persevere. There is nothing humans can do about the weather. A freak shower in Sept. doesn't not a rainy season make. Just pick a day soon when the rain isn't falling and do the work. The issue is working in a wet tree. If the tree is dry working is fine.

[@Shuttlefield]

Great video and thanks for the close-up detail - most informative. Apricots in the UK - bit mild and wet in the Winter but now have a good idea of the wood I'm looking to keep on my fan-trained tree. November and wet but leaves still on, mostly green - leave to Spring or cut back now - would greatly value your opinion. many thanks

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Prune the cots when the trees are in the dry season but not when new growth is coming out. If you missed the dry season, catch a spot between the rains.

[@Shuttlefield]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 many and much appreciated for the advice - will look for a window of a few days without rain and prune first chance.

[@larryseibold4287]

Thank you for all the really good pointers for pruning apricots in the Bay area. Do you tend to completely leave it alone after harvest, waiting until Oct/Nov to do all of your pruning? The tree seems a bit high and big for back yard (not so much for orchard). I have been cutting off the top 4 ft of the new growth right after harvest to give some extra light to the other plants (like a nearby apple tree), and then do another prune in either October or march, but maybe i am not doing it right.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Pruning right after harvest doesn't sound like the best practice. It really depends on when you tree fruits. If it a July crop pruning should be fine. If it fruits after mid August I would avoid it. The regrowth will not harden right before winter. What you are describing is the Summer Pruning system promoted by Dave Wilson.. They have many videos on this so I will avoid discussion. IF you fall prune, you prune once. If you summer prune you have to prune twice. The rule is 50% of the new shoot, not a 4' figure.

[@ROBERTELECTRIC1]

Thank you. I have 10 years of apricot tree never give a fruit in Glendale CA. Now I am looking at my tree and realize the middle of tree is full and branches are not correct. I hope after pruning next year we get some fruit

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Often trees that haven't been pruned annually but get the once in a decade trim will fail to fruit for a while. They will pick back up in a year or two provided the type of training is right for type of Cot you grow. Research low, mid stem and tip bearing types.

[@tomwaller6440]

I found his very informative. Was going to remove my apricot because it has not borne any fruit in its life here in Ventura (6 years running). The plum next to it went crazy this year (lots of rain and many hours of chill below 40F is my belief) and feed many friends. I removed all the leafy branches (just the trunk and four thick branches remain) in prep for pulling the stump. Now my wife says give it another year. Does it stand a chance or should I find another?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I never changes horses in the middle of a stream even for a woman. Since you already cut the limbs back I would continue pulling the tree unless it will create an issue with the spouse. No tree is worth that!

[@janet-Spirit_of_the_Living_God]

I always err on giving it another year unless you see clear signs of it dying.

[@johnmanera4097]

The netting is mosquito netting or very fine netting that can be bought in a sort of craft shop. It actually works well but you have to make sure it is securely around the trunk of the tree with no gaps so that flies can enter in. It just wouldn't be practical for large trees. Netting is often used by fruit orchardists, although probably more to deter birds because there are a number of predator parrots that target fruit. Bird netting is not as fine a material as mosquito netting. A pity I spat the dummy so to speak because apricots are along with peaches or perhaps nectarines are my favourite stone fruit. Not too worry, I'm looking forward this February to some really delicious home grown nectarines as long as I am vigilant regarding the medfly. And glad to see you're successful in stopping fruit fly.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I see, that is some fine netting. I am only partially successful with the flies. That is about the best anyone can expect with drenching the country side in poison day after day.

[@haroldhedelman]

This is great! I've needed this kind of help for years. I can hardly wait for pruning time! One mistake I've made is not keep the tree from spreading out. It's now 20' in diameter, too big for our garden! Any suggestions on how to reduce? Another question: do you advise spraying the oil/copper mix right after Fall pruning, or wait until after leaf drop? I'm located near Fremont, Calif. What a great help!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Leaf drop is irrelevant to fall spray. The leaves are finished and just hanging on. Their presence is meaningless. Might sound crass but if the tree has spread too far you need to prune it back. If you do not it will eventually over weight, crack and possibly damage the main trunk. Correcting years of incorrect pruning can not be done in one pass. Likely the heavy cuts made to correct this will cause brooms that will require summer pruning. You will have to create a new growth tip on each branch.

[@haroldhedelman]

Thank you! Am I righh in thinking it'd be easier to do a thorough spraying if i wait till after leaf drop? Some years the leaves hang on thru November and thru the first rain(s).

[@Trapezoidal]

Bill you always do such a great job - been watching your videos for years. I came back to this one as I'm planning on buying a long reach lopper and remembered you used one in this video. Yours looks to be about 6' or so? I'm a tall guy and so I'm wondering if you think I can get by with a 5' model or if it's a better idea to go for the longer 6' one? Thanks for all the work you do putting all these together.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

The tool I am using has a 48" long tube. The head and handles are longer than that but the tube is 4'. I have another one with a 40" tube because I over did it one day, bent the tool, and had to shorten it. They are both quiet useful. If a lopper is more than 4' you almost need a shoulder strap or it will kill your back. If I need a longer reach I go for my Japanese razor saw with a pruning hook. It is easier to support because the blade rests on the wood.

[@carriad11]

Greetings from Nova Scotia, Canada and trust this finds you safe and well! It’s obviously fall where you are and you are pruning away; being in California “winter” does not bring anything relating to a Canadian winter! So my question would be is your fall pruning the same as Canadian summer pruning! My concern being fall pruning in this part of Canada would not allow the pruned branch to repair before winter! Would appreciate your comments!!!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

My guess is Nova Scotia is about as far north as apricot will grow. Because winter could be frigid enough to damage the tree. Pruning in fall is best for mild winter climates. In your case I would wait until the worst winter weather is over and spring is yet to come. Extreme cold is less likely at that time. Summer pruning is a completely different issue. This fall pruning in California would be the same as a late winter dormant pruning for you.

[@timwall9512]

Good video. Never realized the end, middle, bottom bearing. Shortly after seeing this video our apricot tree blossomed out...on the end of the branch. How do you prune when it is end of the branch bearing? I'll add, none of the blossoms appear to have turned into fruit. Had a late freeze so maybe that killed them. At a loss to help this tree....

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Most apricots will bear flowers to the branch tips. The issue is where are the greatest number of cluster buds located. Apricots make flower buds from one to more than six in a given location. Where the greatest number is located will depend on how you prune. Also the tree variety will tell because these facts are known. If you have cluster buds at the branch tips then you truly have a tip bearing type and alternate pruning the branches from year to year is required. One year a branch is left full. The next year it is removed and the one next to it is left full.

[@juliecoleman6168]

I love in Kingsburg CA. When should I do my main pruning ? Dormant ? Or when it buds?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

October, before the winter rains begin, is the time to prune Apricot. You can prune deeper into the winter but because it rains you run the risk of spreading diseases.

[@JESSEPAVON]

Great video sr. I have a mature apricot tree. A couple years ago I pruned it in early January maybe late December, And now It haves so much growth everywhere I need to prune it again. When should I prune to avoid so much new growth? I heard late February to avoid so much new growth. Can you please give me advance please, thank you.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Abundant new growth is good not bad so rejoice. You mentioned that you pruned a couple years back. Apricot is pruned every year without fail so I would add this practice to the work schedule. We generally never prune apricots in winter because the wet weather spreads diseases through the tree. You will notice in the video the leaves are still in place because the work is done in fall. There is only one method that will reduce regrowth. You would have to resort to Dave Wilson's method of summer pruning fruit trees. This is about the only way to limit the regrowth but it is a lot of work because it requires one pruning in spring, one in late summer and a third in the dormant season. Dave has videos on youtube but a Google search for Dave Wilson Summer Pruning will yield plenty of hits.

[@shoover17331]

I watched several other videos telling me to prune an apricot tree with a modified central leader. Im getting confused.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Apricot can be trained either with a short central trunk or a tall one. Most commercial growers use the short trunk because it makes handling the tree easier. If your apricot is in the middle of the lawn maybe the modified system would be better. No hard rule hear, just points of view.

[@aylemes]

Thank you for this informative and helpful video. You suggested to spray with a mixture of copper and oil. Could you please advise what type of oil and in what proportion. Can I use ordinary sunflower cooking oil?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Some times people will use canola oil but the usual material is a highly refined paraffin based mineral oil referred to as Horticultural Oil. It is a very common material found any place that sells plant insecticides. It is sold under many different brand named labels. Either ask a local nursery man for a horticultural oil spray or type that search into google.

[@estherfan4021]

Bill, my area will be sunny for a couple of days, so plan to prune my apricot tree. And where I can buy the copper to mix it with the horticultural oil? for a tree about 10 feet (after pruning), how much copper and oil I need to buy ? I recall reading from one of your reply, the portion is 1:1. Thank you very much. I google the horticultural oil, they add water into it. Should I, if so, what is the portion of water? Thank you very much.

[@alanbair8782]

Bill, So great to finally find your pruning videos specific to apricots! Both your videos, and all your follow-up comments are super-helpful. Thanks to you, my trees will be healthier and more productive soon. I planted my heirloom apricot trees bare root 6 and 12 years ago in Pasadena CA. Always pruned between bud break and first blossoming. Just found your videos warning against pruning in rainy weather, (no problem during the drought years) but this heavy rain year is about to rain on my pruned trees again. I've never sprayed these trees with anything but Cloud Cover. Any benefit in applying copper on some of my recent cuts? I hate spraying, as i get a bunch of spray coming back in my face. But I have two white fungal growths on my Paviot, and it may be time. How do you spray a tree that is taller than you? Is there some extra long sprayer? Or do I just put on a mask and goggles, or what? Do I need to spray both upwards and downwards? I haven't found a video on this. I've kept my big trees to about 10-12' high. My Redsweet is one of my favorites, but the bark seems to be suffering sun burn and peeling back in a couple places. Might it help to loosely wrap those exposed sections of the bark with a shade cloth? My Routers Peach and Alameda Hemskirke seem to do a little better in these drought years, and the Nonno seem to be the happiest. I've tried Epson Salts this last two years in case it helps with the heat. Given the hot sun in SoCal, do you think something like Cloud Cover would be any help for the trees? Last question: I squeezed a Moorpark and a Tardiff de Bardaneil in where they only get sun after 12 pm. They fruit, but below average. Is direct sun only after 12 pm too little for them to really be happy? Thanks! Alan

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Too many questions here. There is little value in using cloud cover on an Apricot. First time I ever heard of anyone doing this. The point of copper is to prevent a series of Apricot canker, twig blight and fruit brown rot issues. The cuts take care of them selves. You spray trees from a ladder so spray drops down below you. Work with the wind. Wearing a mask and eye protection when spraying is the usual precaution. In the Bay Area, Apricot disease was so prevalent that growing without fungicide was not possible. Prevent sun scald by painting trucks with white latex. Epsom salt provide magnesium which helps increase chloroplast count. Because it also contains sulfur, don't use it with regular fruit tree fertilizers. Use it in between regular feeding intervals. Yes, apricots trees want full sun. A half days sun is better than nothing but will not produce the best crop.

[@alanbair8782]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 Two points for answering all my busload of questions so well. Thanks!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@alanbair8782 His were the only questions this morning

[@alanbair8782]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 The sun scald on one of my main branches has already pealed back 3-4" of bark and exposed the wood. Curled bark on the edges like a present. Can I paint this to protect and prevent spread? Or what? It would be a big loss if I had to cut it.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@alanbair8782 If it is actually sun scald then you can allow it to compartmentalize. Sun scald would happen in northern apricots when sap runs and then freezes again. This is usually always on the SW side of the tree. If you live in a desert and the trees have been heavily pruned and the trunks not painted then the damage is usually on the top of horizontal limbs. If you have any sap then it is canker disease, not sun scald. This has to be pruned out, clean the tools because you can spread it and do dormant copper sprays twice in the dormant season to prevent it.

[@nicolaedanielionita9549]

thanks very well said

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+nick dan You're welcome. Thank you for viewing and responding. Bill

[@OhMiggeee]

Hey Bill, is this tree one that you pruned the year before? Would it look different to this one if it were properly pruned the years prior?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

That particular tree had been pruned by me for 6 seasons. What is might have looked like if I had not been the one who pruned the year before is impossible to say.

[@OhMiggeee]

GreenGardenGuy1 was curious if that much growth to correct is what I would expect to see every year even when I properly prune

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

How much growth you get depends on the type of apricot, the root stock used under the tree, the growing conditions and culture as well as the pruning technique. Trees on standard and semi-dwarf root stocks grow much faster than trees on dwarf stock. Trees that are in fertile ground, well fed and well watered grow much faster than trees that are neglected. These trees are owned by a doctor and no expense is spared in their care so they grow very rapidly. A good apricot makes 6 to 8 foot shoot growth or more during a season.

[@annakwon9627]

Planting a Moorpark this coming spring. It will be about 3-4ft when planted. When should I plan to start pruning? Give it a few years to establish and remove any fruit it might produce?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Moorpark is an excellent fruit when grown in a climate like Ventura CA where it originated. In Norcal it ripens unevenly but it is still pretty good. Since it is a California type I assume you live in CA and recommend winter time planting from bare root if possible. It is much easier due to rainfall at that time. Otherwise spring planting from containers is okay but harder. If you were a farmer you would give the new tree an orchard cut. This is removing all side branches and cutting the main trunk back to about 1.5 feet. Most home gardeners use a less radical approach. I recommend the main trunk be cut back to 2 or three feet when planting. The rest can be left for the dormant season.

[@myhusbandsrib]

Hi Bill, I need your help. Desperately! This past spring, my two apricot trees were full of apricots, but they all fell to the ground before they had a chance to ripen. My trees are about 3 to 4 years old. I tried pruning year before last and thought that would help, but nothing did! What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

1,2,3,& 4, can't tell which, you have to inspect. Immature fruit falling is usually squirrels or rats. Near mature fruit is birds. Infected fruit falls early. Brown rot or insect could do this. Weather, hard wind, hail or drought could do the same. You have to look close at the fruit to see the evidence. I can't do that from here.

[@dianem7677]

...thank you for a very informative video. You mentioned ..."sap", I noticed it in a few places on my apricot tree. What I need to do? Thanks.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

It's been a few years since I did this video but I believe I covered gummosis. "Sap" or gummosis has many different causes on Apricot trees so there is no specific treatment. The cause of the sap needs to be determined first. It could be twig blight, it could be Canker, it could be boring insects it could also be drought. homeguides.sfgate.com/apricot-trees-leaking-sap-dead-branches-28223.html ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r5100911.html ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.apricots.html

[@dianem7677]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 ...thank you so much, have a nice evening!

[@84176104]

My apricot tree is leaning and the cable I used for support is cutting into the bark. Do you have any suggestions? My apricot tree is 5 years old. I have not had any fruit. Do I need a male and a female?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Riggins Riggins Hind sight is 20/20 but by now you must have realized never cable a tree. Trees are staked for the first 12 months after planting just to keep the roots from shearing off in the tree rocks in the wind. After that you pull all stakes and let the tree build strength so it can hold it's self straight. It the tree grows off balance use a pruning shear instead of a cable to balance the canopy. Remove the stakes and wires, prune the tree against the lean if need be. As far as why your tree doesn't fruit, there could be quite a number of answers depending on conditions. Lack of pollinating insects in some areas are a problem. Weather during the bloom that stops bees from flying is another. A few apricots do require pollen from a different apricot tree. If you have one of these then you need a second tree of the right type. Most are self fertile and don't require another tree. Check your variety. Some apricots require cold winter to flower and fruit. If you live in a warm winter area the tree will never chill down. Other types of apricots are tender to cold. If you have one of these and live in a cold winter climate the buds are freezing. Certain varieties of apricot on certain types of root stock can take a long time to fruit. These usually grow like weeds to very large size quickly. Over pruning or pruning the growth wrong will ruin the crop also. I mentioned tip bearing apricots in the video. If you have one of these and cut all of last years wood back it removes most of the fruit buds. Thanks for watching.

[@kellypunteney]

I have heard you only prune apricot trees in the spring? You are pruning in the fall. What is the best time? The tree is in Southern Italy north of Naples.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Generally spring is a poor time to prune apricot in any country. If the tree is leafed out pruning damages a lot of the soft tissues. Late winter is typical in much of the USA for apricot pruning. In California we have two serious diseases called twig blight and stem canker. Both diseases are spread with tools if the canopy is wet. We recommend fall pruning in California because the trees are dry and the winter is too mild to damage wood from freezing. This is from the U of California research. www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/CULTURAL/apripruning.html

[@johnmanera4097]

I will see if those products you mentioned are available here in WA and maybe buy and give them a go. It's largely because of fruit fly that I have not grown more stone fruit, I just get fed up with fruit fly. Nowadays I try to not use pesticides and many are no longer available now because of environmental concerns.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Spinosad is an insecticide but it is a bacteria from a Barbados rum distillery not a chemical. It works well on flies.

[@jakearick]

Bill, my goji berry patch is out of control! It is in dire need of pruning, however, I am having great difficulty in finding helpful information in any of my literature or online on the subject. Help me!!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Jake Rick I have never put much thought to the science of Goji pruning. The times I have pruned the plant I just cut it to a manageable size and allow it to grow back again. Most of the people I know who grow this plant seem to do the same thing. If you live in zone 5 or 6 I would probably wait until spring to avoid freeze damage.

[@zaneymay]

IHow would I know if ordering trees where they fruit at? That information is not listed. I bought southern trees.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

If the vendor doesn't list the information then doing research from other sources by the cultivar should answer the question.

[@Granolalight]

I live just off the Alaska Highway in Northern BC, and we bought this place last year with a plum tree and 2 ornamental pear trees. The pears turned out to be apricots this year, and tons of them. This fall I need to severely prune these three trees, because they have been left neglected for so many years that the centres are packed full and they are 20+ feet tall. We didn't think apricots would even grow here, but they are, so the next step is to find out what kind they are. Would it be better to try identifying them after next year, when the fruit will be bigger, and the trees will look more like fruit trees? Also, there is a small fungus growing on all of the trees, will copper spray do anything for fungus as well? Thanks for the video. It has given me a great place to start.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Apricots grow in parts of BC. IF you are in the milder climate areas they are probably Manchurian or some selection made from Manchurian cots. Identifying a fruit when the name is lost is next to impossible and probably not worth the effort. For all you know some one planted a seed. Manchurian will grow that way. Do they show a graft line in the trunk? It really depends on what you mean by fungus. Most fungus that are trouble on apricots are not visible to the naked eye. Only the damage from the fungus is visible. Visible mushrooms on a tree usually mean the heart of the tree is rotten and very little can be done to fix that other than plant new trees.

[@Granolalight]

We are pretty far north. So far we are the only people that we know that have actual fruit from apricot trees around here. Apparently the people who planted the trees were told they were ornamental pear, so we will probably never know. We are utilizing them now, in case we never get any more. I will get some photos of the fungus and try to get them to you. The sapsuckers have feasted on these trees in the past, so maybe they are giving us a last hoorah before they kick the bucket. I sure hope not, because we love those trees outside of our bedroom window keeping us cool.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I suggest taking the pits from your fruit and planting a few dozen of them. Once they grow up a bit you can graft branches from your original trees to them keeping the line alive. You can send photos to [e-mail] Bill

[@johnmanera4097]

I did have a moorpark variety apricot planted in my tiny front yard, in Perth, Australia around 2004. It might be classified as a heritage variety in Australia, although don't quote me on that. I didn't know why all the fairly green fruit were falling off the tree so I decided to cut an unripe apricot open and then saw mediterranean fruit fly larvae within. I was really surprised and disappointed because I didn't know at that time that fruit fly will still go for unripe fruit. In a rage I ended up pulling the tree out of the ground. It was a fairly young tree and I should have just disposed of the fruit, but left the small tree. Here in Western Australia, mediterranean fruit fly can be a considerable problem for any fruit growers. I can't be bothered to put different types of traps, around fruit trees, instead I just net the tree and that seems to be a good way whilst the tree is very young. I did know of another gardner who covers the fruit in little pouches to protect from fruit fly. Currently only my 3 year old nectarine might be targeted, my mango tree hasn't been targeted by fruit fly, which is good, although I did make little pouches for the dozen or so mango fruit on the tree because I thought they may have been attacked this past year as it appeared that one fruit seemed like it had fruit fly in it, but unusually no other fruit appeared affected only that one fruit. I think or atleast you would certainly know Bill, in the continental USA you get mediterranean fruit fly? And from your video in Hawaii you get chinese fruit fly? I remember in 2004 my family holidayed in Mauritius and there was a giant mango tree, Mauritian variety Maison Rouge or Dauphine and a very large avocado tree and both fruit trees fruit were very much attacked by fruit fly. The fruit was rotting on the ground but the owners of the property seemed oblivious to it. They didn't like avocado and didn't seem to be worried about the fruit fly. One fruit tree that I had never seen before and had never heard of it at that time when I asked my sister in law who lived at the house what it was she said bergamot citrus. I had never heard of it but perhaps you have. The peel has an essential oil that is used in eau de cologne perfume as well as other citrus oils.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Yes, I am familiar with Bergamot. It isn't used for food as you noted. Pulling out the tree because of the flies reminds me of my grandfathers expression. "It is like cutting off your nose to spite your face. " I believe it is an old German saying. California has the Med Flies as well as Hawaii. Hawaii also has just about every other fruit fly you can think of. The main one that troubles me is the Chinese but I have also trapped the Med fly too. Can't see how a net would keep them off. Agribon 15 or 19 pest barrier would work though. I use traps to good results. When the traps are not enough I use Spinosad bacteria on the fruit.

[@estherfan4021]

I live in bay area also, and when I see this video, it is already end of Nov. Can I still prune it? thanks, I learn a lot from your video.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Gardeners often allow weather conditions to be the reason they do not do the basic maintenance of orchards. Even if the best recommendations are to prune in early fall it is more important that the work get done than it be done at the right time of year. The issue with apricots is their susceptibility to bacterial and fungal diseases. These diseases spread much more easily if the trees are worked in wet weather. If it is high, dry and sunny the day you prune you will have no problems with this. Pick a dry spell and get to work, don't forget to use a copper spray on the trees after pruning. Aloha, Bill

[@johnmanera4097]

Well the spinosad product I sighted in the hardware store today, and I will definitely consider that or the barrier method if the mosquito netting doesn't protect the fruit. I haven't checked the Agribon 15 or 19, which I should have, before I went to the hardware store so I could have checked for these whilst I was there. Whether they be a barrier or the spinosad product, I will look at purchasing which ever is the better, but seeing as the nectarine tree is not so big, I will use the mosquito netting this fruiting season. Barbados rum bacteria, that seems an interesting source for an insecticide, In Mauritius the local favourite alcohol is a cane spirit or rum made from sugar cane. The sugar industry used to be the biggest revenue earner for Mauritius more than 40 years ago, but tourism is the biggest earner since then. Mauritian cane spirit was potent stuff and cheap and more than a few locals drink too much of the stuff. For health reasons I don't drink alcohol often, but I will have an alcohol in social situations and I don't mind an occasional beer or red wine in particular. Aussie's are good at making good wine as are Californians I have heard. I had to go to the dentist today and it seems like I might have to have a tooth pulled out, which I'm not thrilled about, especially if I intended to fill the gap with a dental implant which aren't cheap to get in Australia. If I went to India I could probably get a dental implant done at 1/3 the price, but for the sake of one tooth, it's not worth it. In Australia even with insurance (which I have) the vast majority of policies don't include things like dental implants. I'll work that out. I have heard health insurance is crazy expensive in the US, but anyway don't need to harp on about these things. Have a good day.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Insurance in the US doesn't cover implants either. I broke a lower front tooth and ended up with a bridge because the implants cost so much. I kind of wish i had done the implant. I don't like the way the bridge feels.

[@Victor-jp7tb]

I am from Ukraine. Thank you for very informative and helpfull video!! Especially the part about the double and triple buds! I did not know about the buds. Can you tell me about the oil you are using with copper spray?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

It is called horticultural oil. It is a low sulfur paraffin based mineral oil. It is some times sold as dormant oil if the sulfur is high or summer oil if it is low. I have no idea what label might be on a bottle in the Ukraine. It isn't likely you have the US brands on the shelf.

[@Victor-jp7tb]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 OK! I will try to find it!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@Victor-jp7tb Here it is on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Bonide-Products-210-Horticultural-Concentrate/dp/B000BX4RNW/ref=sr_1_8?crid=TOT8I4EZMCND&dchild=1&keywords=horticultural+oil+spray+for+plants&qid=1615840280&sprefix=horticultural+oil%2Caps%2C323&sr=8-8

[@billnumby1080]

Mr. Bill, your vids are always a wealth of info, I make my own copper solution from boiling copper wire, but what type of oil do you use or recommend for spraying the tree? Best regards.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Sadly boiling copper wire isn't likely to create a good fungicide. I suggest purchasing a bottle of one of the copper fungicides formulated to use on plants. The oil used in this recipe is the refined paraffin mineral oil referred to as horticultural oil or dormant oil. A trip into a good local nursery or a search of Amazon will get you to the products you need.

[@billnumby1080]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 I came to the same conclusion before going out and buying some liq copper fung. and triple action neem oil, and after a 2+ month drought here, it has rained me out from using it, with more to come tomorrow, for now. Thanks for the info.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@billnumby1080 November and February are the best months to spray but many people spray Nov., Dec., Jan & Feb. Not all the spray will be hit by rain. It only has to dry on the plant for 2 hours to be effective. There is no harm in using the Neem oil but it will not fix the copper to the branch the same way paraffin mineral oil will.

[@billnumby1080]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 Again my many thanks Oracle of the Orchard.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@billnumby1080 You are welcome. Have a great garden

[@NEMOZAC]

got apricot tree very young 4ft high very thin trunk growing like mad in Australia /autumn fall now should i trim its height to produce better trunk or just let it go wild for now its growing 6 inches 2 weeks height very healthy no vertical strength leans over if not staked

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I would correct any poor branch angles but otherwise just let the tree grow for a year before doing anything else. It will harden up and slow down in time. Try applying a high potash fertilizer like kelp. this will give the tree better fiber and strength. Bill

[@downbntout]

Question, please, anyone know? I thought it was a good goal to prune so you can pick fruit without a ladder. Why does Mr. Merrill prune everything to be upward?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+downbntout Actually I prune to shorten wood, thin wood, drive wood to the center and to open the middle. I don't prune everything upward. Perhaps the illusion of upward pruning is caused by the fact that the tree grows upward. My work thins, shortens and opens the middle to sun.

[@HaphazardHomestead]

It sure would help if fruit tree catalogs would say what the fruiting pattern is on each variety. I find that most people have no idea that apricots vary in where the tree puts on the most fruit. I'm still on a search for an apricot that does well in the long, wet springs west of the Cascade Mountains in the Pacific Northwest. I've found some peaches that don't need spraying (Curlfree and Charlotte), but no apricots like that yet.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+HChrisH200 - Haphazard Homestead Out side of prime apricot growing country I don't believe the idea of Apricots falling into three classes of fruiting is well known. Most of the apricots in the USA were or are grown with in a 100 mile circle of my house. Fremont down to San Jose, CA once produce the lions share of this fruit. My teachers on this subject were old time apricot farmers. I have yet to see a list anywhere that discusses what varieties have which bearing habit. You can determine this yourself by checking last years growth to see where the fattest buds are located. If they are at the tips, do not shorten last years growth. If they are in the middle like most cots you can cut the shoots by 40 to 50%. If they are in the lower portion you can prune over 50%. Sorry, I would be no help in determining proper apricots for your area. We used to grow Manchurian back in the Midwest, it might work for you, it is quite hardy. The only text I know of with the 3 apricot types discussed is a wonderful little book How to Prune Fruit Trees by Sanford Martin.

[@HaphazardHomestead]

GreenGardenGuy1 I learned to appreciate the different fruiting patterns just by watching my trees and scouring a lot of books, articfles, and discussion boards. I've got a Manchurian apricot that bears once every 5 ears or so, and a Puget Gold that bears every year, although sparse some years. I've tried a few others, too. I'm starting now to plant every pit I get, just to see if anything comes up with more suitable characteristics by chance. I've seen some great apricot seedlings where I grew up in western Kansas. I'll check out the Martin book. Thanks!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+HChrisH200 - Haphazard Homestead Apricot should make some pretty good seedlings. My idea on growing fruits in "fringe" climates is that seedlings from trees that do bear in the area are an excellent place to find new and superior varieties. Thumbs up on seedlings. I use a lot of them both on the Mainland and in Hawaii. These work particularly well on fruits that haven't been hybridized much like Pawpaw, Macadamia nut and white sapote. You will like the book. Thanks, Bill

[@janet-Spirit_of_the_Living_God]

We're in a similar climate in the NW corner of CA. We had a great couple years of apricots on a Puget Gold tree, but one by one the branches died so my husband saved the beautiful trunk wood and made us an entry way shelf :-) This past year (dry spring till nearly the end of January!) we had a handful of apricots on my Puget Gold grafts on a peach tree, and 7 fruit for the first time in a Chinese/Mormon apricot tree purchased 10 years at Costco in Eureka. A neighbor had a dozen fruits off of Tomcot, oh, and we had a couple misshapen fruits on a drug store bagged Bleinheim that had cracked through a plastic pot. We've moved it into a covered high tunnel and will be planting a Tomcot in there this year too. The spring rain really messes with production here, and if the bees and pollen flies are not around then I got out with my Webster duster and do the job myself. Worked great a year on the covered nectarine. Good luck! Obviously we're really trying for apricots. We moved here from the MOORPARK neighborhood of San Jose where the first housing development after WWII include an apricot tree every few houses. We weren't so lucky, but the neighbor had more than they could use so we always got our fill of apricot cobbler. Nothing better!

[@MovingBlanketStudio]

You can always tell a legit you tube orchardist, gardener, etc. because they've got fingerless gloves. You're welcome.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Too many years as a guitarist. I can't work if I can't feel.

[@jakearick]

I'm pruning my fruit trees and I have a question. Will suckers from my California pomegranate bear fruit? I ask because the tree itself was pruned very poorly originally. And the suckers are of good shape

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Jake Rick Pomegranate do not often make suckers unless the roots have been cut but yes, any suckers you take from your plant should be identical to the parent. I say this only because most pomegranate are grown from cuttings and are not grafted. IF your plant happens to be a grafted plant then the root is different from the top. Most likely it is not grafted.

[@jakearick]

Thanks Bill!

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Jake Rick Sure thing.

[@petergiles2913]

in Bay Area is there pruning of apricot trees to be done in winter?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Decades ago we used to prune apricots in the winter. About 30 years back UC Davis discovered that we were spreading several diseases around the canopy by pruning in the rainy season. With that understand all educated pruners do apricot work in October or at least early Nov. before the rains.

[@LuisFilipeMagro]

Recently i watched another video around on youtube about apricot pruning, from Dave Wilson Nursery gentleman and it seemed quite trustworthy. I don't remember where i saved the link at the moment but i'll post it once I find it. Do you see any problem in pruning apricot trees after all the fruit is picked (or even apples/pears with fruit set) during the summer time? Some things mentioned in that other video kinda made sense. The climate here in Portugal (Lisbon), in general i think, it's fairly similar to that you have there in Fremont. Thank you again. Luis

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Luis, I know the guys at Dave Wilson. I have done business with them in the past and had them teach classes at my nursery when i was in the business. I trust them and consider them a great source of information on fruit trees. The only negative I can put out there about them is my videos are a lot more amusing. Dave Wilson is really the central source of the idea for summer pruning. I practiced what they describe for many years in Fremont. The only problem I ever had with it was on apples and pears. After a summer pruning with fruit on the trees the fruit becomes susceptible to sun burning during extreme heat waves. These heat waves seem be be more frequent as of late. Global weather change? In the case of Apricots, if you prune after fruit is picked you will have no trouble. The University of California in Davis promotes pruning the Apricot in the summer to early fall because the weather is dry. Pruning them in wet winter weather promotes disease.

[@LuisFilipeMagro]

Hello Bill. Back from a two week vacation. Lots of sun and salt water. (No tears and no sweat just sea water.) Indeed your videos are much more amusing. Ok then i'll try to start pruning my pear and apple trees only after all the fruit is eaten by me or the bugs... We are having quite a dry a hot summer this year. Very different from the last 2 years. Think i could/should prune a peach/nectarine tree in late August, early September then? Thank you.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I just had a week of my son visiting from the Mainland USA. Swimming, hiking and exploring. I'm beat and I still have a dinner date with friends on the north end of the Island tonight. While following Dave Wilson's summer pruning I would prune 50% of this years new growth in early June followed by 50% of the regrowth in early August. Then I would thin the tree in winter. This would be about the same for you. If you are pruning the Peach only once in summer then do it in early August. The point here is you have to leave enough time for the growth to harden before the tree goes dormant. Or you prune after the tree goes dormant. With Apricots we prune them in October before the winter rains fall in California. Your rain season may be different than that. Don't prune apricot in rainy weather.

[@johnmanera4097]

I saw a product available in the local hardware store and it's called nature's way fruit fly control. It contains spinosad, I will look at buying it if the mosquito netting doesn't protect my nectarines. Currently the pink flowers are just starting to form. Thanks for the tip, I haven't looked up the other products you mentioned, but I will. Regarding roundup, glyphosate, seems like another farmer has blamed his wife's non hodgkins lymphoma on using roundup for decades. And the Grains Council of Australia support the continued use of roundup, but Barley Australia are not supportive and claim residues from roundup contaminate the products which threaten exports. Roundup residues are so pervasive from what I have read that most grain and other products contain some level of residues, that covers biscuits, crisps, breakfast cereals and 60% of bread sold in the UK according to the Guardian newspaper. I've got no reason to doubt this publication and probably the same statistics regarding food products in Australia and elsewhere apply. I guess I'm sort of killing 2 birds with one stone as I'm cutting down on carbohydrate e.g. bread, rice and pasta and don't have sugar, but these are for health reasons, but atleast my intake of roundup residues may be reduced if they were previously at high levels. Best grow your own everything organically where possible, I guess and eat grass fed animals for those that are meat eaters.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

Yup, Most of the US grain is Round up ready these days. The residue is detectable on almost all the harvest. Traps for the flies will guide a spray program. When the flies show in the traps you can target Spinosad on the fruit. Spinosad only lasts about 11 days so knowing when to spray makes it more effective.

[@janet-Spirit_of_the_Living_God]

Roundup residue on conventionally grown grains is from it being sprayed on the plants as a desiccant so that harvesting can happen earlier. Buying organic will protect against glyphosate contamination.

[@johanconradie2120]

give all trees 3 scaffold branches max and remove all ingrowing branches

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

This is a rather odd statement. The video was about apricot pruning but your comment seems to cover all trees. In the case of stone fruits I only partially disagree. Stone fruits work with three to five scaffold limbs and pruned to a bowl. These are the only trees that are generally pruned that way. Citrus and avocado are closed canopy plants and have a different system. Apples and Pears are typical of trees trained to the modified central leader system with five or more scaffolds. Any time you say "all" you're probably incorrect.

[@mikeash7428]

thanks for the demo. I'm going to attack two big apricots without guilt about whacking away.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

If the trees have been unpruned then usually they will fail to fruit for a year after proper pruning is under taken. Regular pruning taken on every fall should give you good tree shape and a regular crop of fruit without limb breakage.

[@dyarom4575]

When is good time to prune an apricot?I live in Tracy,CA.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Diana Liu The most modern approach is to prune when the leaves are still on the tree in late Oct to Nov. This is before the rains and it limits the spread of disease through the canopy. If you missed that season then just try to find a nice dry day between Jan and Feb. to get the work done. Hope for a few hours of dry weather so you can spray the tree with copper and oil when done.

[@dyarom4575]

Thanks you for your prompt answer,I need to try to trim on a dry day between Jan and Feb,but tree copper and oil where to purchase?

[@dyarom4575]

Also,I have a cherry tree and a orange tree never trim I plant them 1 year ago.I need to trim the orange tree because is small like a bush now and I want to be taller this year he make me 15 oranges delicious,I just ate 2 right now,but the cherry tree no flowers,no fruits maybe because I have only 1 and I need 1 more for pollination,what do you think?

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Diana Liu Copper fungicide sprays and horticultural oil sprays as very basic and common materials for gardening available at all plant nurseries, most hardware store, most chain stores and from the internet. You should be able to find the materials within a few miles of your home. If not type a search into Amazon. They have the materials and can ship you some.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

+Diana Liu No flowers on a cherry tree means the tree is too young to flower. Flowers on a cherry with no fruit means you probably need a second pollinator tree. Most cherries are not self fertile. Unless you chose the type you are growing carefully and found a self fertile cherry you probably will not see cherries even after the tree gets old enough to flower. Most cherry trees take 6 years or more to come into a decent crop. They must grow fruiting spurs and that takes some time. My favorite self fertile cherry is Stella and it is a decent pollinator of other cherries. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXXHmpdmgMebhrM kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYCnl6iNoN2dgtU As for Citrus I do not recommend that you lift the canopy by pruning them upward. It is against their natural growth habit and will only reduce the amount for fruit you get. If you feel inclined to do this anyway then prune in spring just before the flowers form. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqiXmJt-l6mSZ8k

[@kayte13]

I live in CA and my apricot tree has apricots on the ends of the braches. I have a leader not open in center. The tree is 3 yrs old

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

I assume this is because the tree hasn't been pruned or trained.

[@kayte13]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 yes. The leader is thick and all the branches are are very tall and curving over. Not sure how to prune it without damaging it.

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@kayte13 Pruning, if done right does not damage a tree. Not pruning a tree does damage it. Usually we start pruning fruit trees the minute they are planted and continue through out their life. If the tree was ignored for several years you have only two choices. Either pack you fear away and start pruning or buy a new tree, plant it and begin pruning from the first day. I would just take after the tree. It wouldn't the first unpruned apricot I had to restore. Good luck

[@kayte13]

@@GreenGardenGuy1 thank you I do want to prune it. So do you think I should cut the leader in half. Anyway I know you no longer live in California and you’re in Hawaii . So I appreciate you responding to my message

[@GreenGardenGuy1]

@@kayte13 Even if I was on the moon I could answer pruning questions. Locate four or five side limbs that are well spread out and bisect a circle like spokes of a wheel. Cut the main trunk off after the last one. Cut the side branches so the arch out from the center and remove branches that grow through the middle. From that point the information in this video will continue the job.