Arcade Buttons - Leaf vs Microswitch - Rollie Leaf Switch Review

An overview of the difference between the two most common types of arcade buttons; leaf switch and microswitch.
Also, a review of the "Rollie" leaf switches!
Thanks for watching!

[@jamesv833]

I've been eyeballing those Rollie leafs for a few months. Thank you for the in-depth review.

[@dinkyflix]

They're pretty slick!

[@ukxvc]

I bought some of these too and think they're a descent alternative to original leafs. Very informative video dude.

[@sebastianelytron8450]

Best video on KZbin hands down.

[@miaouew]

...that's a little bit of a stretch

[@DanielAyy]

I could listen to those button presses for hours

[@mathieup3765]

Me too!!!

[@FrankRizzo557]

Great informational video. What I would like to see is a micro-switch that can swap easily with my 80's leaf switches. The problem is the size of the hole needs to be expanded and I'm not so sure I want to be drilling my stock cabinet.

[@moxxichannel5950]

That was incredibly informative. Thank you for taking the time to explain this. Subbed and Liked!

[@1bigrand1]

I agree! Learned something today! Will be useful when I change out the buttons on my pinball machine!

[@johndough8115]

A few things to note: 1) Arcade Leaf buttons dont have to be pressed all the way down. You just need to press them far enough down.. to make the contacts connect, and then you stay at that level, and lightly "Vibrate" your finger... so that the contacts open and close rapidly. This technique is called "Feathering". With it, you can fire MUCH faster than any other way... AND... it takes almost ZERO physical effort to do so. As such, you wont experience Fatigue, when playing a rapidfire shooter, such as "Haleys Comet". That particular game rewards players with the fastest continual fire rate... with the capability to pick up more powerups. Its virtually unplayable with a Microswitch... because they have so much tension / resistance... that your fingers will get way too tired, in only a few minutes worth of play. 2) There are sellers of different "Modern" leafswitches... However, they are problematic... because the buttons have very little travel, and the button spring is way too light. As a result, just resting your fingers on the buttons, activates them, accidentally. As such, they are WAY too sensitive. The seller claims that you can simply stretch the spring, to add resistance... but as much as I stretched the springs, they were still way too easy to push / activate. 3) There were a few different versions of Leaf Switches. Some have long travel.. and some had shorter travel. The longer travel, are on games like Asteroids Deluxe... and they are absolutely PERFECT, when using the "Feathering" technique. If you want to pick up Brand New "Long Travel" leafswitches... I believe you simply have to buy Pinball Buttons (Unless they have changed to micros, they should be using a very similar arcade leafswitch button on them). 4) The Rollie is a decent compromise... but IMO... they still do not compare to the real Long Travel leafswitches.. as they will "Bottom Out" well before you can "Feather" them. Bottoming out a button, causes more Noise, as well as creates a small impact shockwave... that ends up going into your fingers. After so many of these impacts... it starts to cause a bit of Fatigue. Also, the act of rebounded off of the bottom... adds more physical resistance, through Energy Losses. One might be able to reduce some of that... if they installed very bouncy rubber pads, on the bottom of the button housing... however, that might also effect travel, and the rubber might wear down quickly. 5) Ive not looked into this... but it might be possible to create or modify microswitch buttons, to have longer travel. But its basically pointless, since you can simply pick up Pinball Leaf buttons, instead (I believe). 6) The problem with Used Leafswitches (not the buttons, but the actual switches)... is that the Metal Springs eventually start to "Fatigue". The springs basically lose a lot of their "Springy-Ness"... and so when you press them down.. they often wont fully return to where they started out. You can bend then at greater angles, to try to solve this... and it will work for a short period of time... However, they will quickly bend right back to where they were... and become a problem again. This also happens on older Pinball Leaf Springs. Its also a problem for many older "Spring Powered" toys... where the springs in them are no longer strong enough to function properly. Finally.. I shall be even more clear about Feathering. Once the contacts connect... and your player "Fires".. the contacts are touching. When you vibrate, the contacts will only separate... about the distance of a single sheet of paper... before connecting back together again. As such, there is almost Zero button travel, and nearly ZERO delays.. between your presses. This allows you to reach rapidfire rates, that are on par with Digital "Auto-Fire" cheats. Maybe even faster... because some of the rapidfire cheats have a "SET" rate of fire, that cant be changed.

[@chrisnizer1885]

I have to agree, nothing beats a good old fashioned leaf-switch joystick and buttons. The only drawback for me is their cost. 12 Sanwa buttons, 2 USB Zero-Delay encoders, 2 Sanwa JLF sticks, and all the wiring and cables to hook it up, was less than $75.00 including delivery. I'm not a spokesperson for any particular company. Nor do I have any "brand loyalty" to defend. I just wish there were a more affordable leaf-switch option. Thanks for a very informative video. Always great to learn something new about a hobby I really enjoy.

[@roiad876]

Less than $75... you sure they're original?

[@Victor-it6bv]

Which one is best for Track and Field?

[@Sakanakao]

Very useful info!

[@fngerg7034]

1:00 ooh yeah thats what i want

[@decadentdave]

I just bought some classic leaf switch buttons I want to put in my Arcade1up. The plungers on these are not compatible with the Happ microswitch buttons so a Rollie Leaf Switch won’t work. Can I install the classic leaf switch buttons in my A1up control deck and just connect the wires from the encoder board onto the terminal contacts?

[@dinkyflix]

Not sure. I've only ever dealt with the real original arcade hardware and never worked with any of the Arcade 1up stuff.

[@decadentdave]

@@dinkyflix answer: yes classic leaf switches do work on an A1up encoder as long as you have the space for them under the deck. Buttons that are too close together won’t work.

[@adriansmithmusic]

Have you tried the Gold leaf buttons from Ultimarc? That’s a 4th option to consider. You can’t adjust them at all as they’re integrated into the button I think but im thinking about buying them from Arcade World UK as I’m based in Ireland.

[@mathieup3765]

I'm using Gold Leaf on my MAME cabinet and I looooooove them!

[@troymcdonald]

Yay, I got my Rollie Leaf Switches! I’d love to know how to wire the Rollie Leaf Switch. I’m assuming one is ground and one is the power, but which one is ground, using a Lorenzo button? Thanks, sure appreciate it.

[@troymcdonald]

Great video, thanks! I’ve watched it 3 times. What brand of buttons are used in your Toki? I like the smaller height buttons. Thanks so much. :)

[@dinkyflix]

I don't recall the exact brand. They're just your standard microswitch buttons with the rollie leaf switches.

[@tymon-iq5oc]

Its easy to see it has more precise click, less presure but its hard to find leaf switch like in yoyr videi and that metal look like easier for corode then microswitch with case. Now all you can pick is microswitch with 2 pins/holes and case or some sanwa gear with keyboard microswitch. All other option are rare and expensive. Btw size of leave microswitch is very demanding.

[@DanielAyy]

0:48 & 1:37 for arcade button asmr

[@howardjones543]

Does the microswitch "skeleton" on the rollie switch have enough to screw to something? I'm wondering if I can use them in joysticks too. It's easy to find 2-way restricted microswitch joysticks with V3 microswitches in them. Not so much for leaf switch joysticks. If I could pop a couple of those in and get my Defender panel to be all-leaf switch, that'd be awesome!

[@dinkyflix]

Not sure on that one.

[@slybunda]

clicky one is satisfying.

[@NinjaRed5000]

I wonder if these Rollie leaf switches are responsive enough for something like competitive fighting games. That would be interesting to see.

[@notsoeviljerry]

They are super responsive. I put the switches in my VPin and it's night and day. As for a fighting stick or fighting game arcade, you would get the same results but I can see space being a huge issue with a 6-8 button cluster.

[@miaouew]

I prefer Japanese components myself, but cherry switches are lovely tactile devices.

[@edgerton121]

any specific recommendations?

[@sillywet4785]

Thanks Anthony Jeselnik

[@sparx2169]

I have a question? What is your opinion on cherry d44x switches compared to the 50g and 20g versions. Building my first cabinet and wanted to use top of the line controls and switches. I'm 90% sold on il eurojoystick and il buttons just don't know what I want for switches yet.

[@dinkyflix]

I haven't personally used those microswitches - most of my microswitch stuff is of the classic Happ style variety. With that said, my personal preference has been for a heavier feel since that's what I grew up with in the arcades. Microswitches are pretty inexpensive, so I would recommend buying a couple in each flavor and deciding which ones to go with based on how they feel to you.

[@MikeleKonstantyFiedorowiczIV]

Thats what i need to see, how shit works and how to instal that microswitch

[@CameronFord-jo4yj]

Why does the micro switch have 3 prongs, i just bought some to replace in my arcade 1 up machine and i dont think theu are going to work lol

[@dinkyflix]

That's standard. Bottom is ground. Then the other two are for NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open.) You attach the button wire to NO if you want the button to close the circuit (aka activate) when you press the button (like most circumstances.) You'd use NC if you want the switch to activate when the button is released.

[@mikewhost5447]

leavesound joystick ? where can I buy it and what is the name of the model and the manufacturer - thanks for the info

[@travotski]

American buttons: we are the supreme. Hayabusa sanwa and seimitsu: allow us to introduce ourselves Razer mechanical buttons: it seems that im not the only competitor here

[@ObiTrev]

*Cherry:* ゴゴゴゴ

[@elmalloc]

I watched in 1.5-1.75 easily! :)

[@NinerowCenter]

I noticed that getting normal microswitch buttons isnt that easy. Playing on Hayabusa and Sanwa Buttons feels weird for me. I need a tactile Feedback. The only Buttons i can find are Sanwa.. I just want good quality microswitch buttons (i mean good quality plastic surface)..... Even on a Keyboard i prefer MX-Blue over MX-Black.... Same story, if you know what i mean.

[@Bearcade]

Jealous of your Gaplus. Nice!

[@smallsthetimelord4066]

@dinkyflix Would rollie leaf switches fit on a Sanwa joystick?

[@dinkyflix]

I doubt it, but I'm not sure. Your best bet would be to ask Paradise Arcade Shop.

[@smallsthetimelord4066]

@@dinkyflix Cool. Worst case scenario I know I'm going to get more later so I can just get 4 extra now to check and if it doesn't work nothing's lost since I can just use them for the future buttons.

[@Saturnity]

@11:07 In the keyboard community, you'd probably see the opposite reaction. Mushy switches are the devil and a clicky feedback is really desirable. Exhibit A: Chyrosran's Kailh box navy switch teardown. I guess it comes down to preference and hype? I was cringing just looking at the leaf mechanism.

[@jerrylive365]

If you played original arcade games like Asteroids or Centipede when they were new, there is no other alternative to leaf switches. The feel is incredibly memorable and they are far superior IMO. Microswitches have an odd feel and just do not compare to leaf.

[@RamClaw]

I've had a zippy microswitch that's lasted 100 million presses before going bad.

[@user-yv2cz8oj1k]

Filmed on Shakeycam (TM) to make it look 10 years older than it is.

[@MikeleKonstantyFiedorowiczIV]

it should be laser

[@MasterMayhem78]

Damn bro! What tried to eat your thumb?

[@6977warrior1]

Open up a microswitch (2 small screws) and inside you'll find........a leafswitch!

[@user-yv2cz8oj1k]

Well not quite, because it has solid pieces and a hinge and a return spring rather than relying in the natural flex in the metal, but you could.

[@jerrylive365]

Ya, not exactly the same.

[@user-yv2cz8oj1k]

And who put the micro switch in upside down? lol kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmebk6airsaIi80

[@ArcDevErik]

Theres only modern microswitches, leaf switches are a thing like Studabaker's are a thing. Modern switches have all of the positives and none of the negatives of any prior switch type. Modern switches can be silent or clicky. Interesting video but a lot of missing information.