Arctic Cat 400 Engine Rebuild & Test Drive!

[@IngenGarage]

The new objective with this 4-wheeler is to try and get it all done by Mini Mayhem April 19-21 with CarsandCameras! So far it seems to be very likely that this is going, but if not I will take the offroad lawnmower!

[@sbsb4161]

I envy your patience and knowledge, and I applaud your determination!! Good job

[@IngenGarage]

Thank ya sir!

[@joebloe1152]

She looks purdy. Nice job! Now if you'll crate it up and send it to me I'll be a happy camper. I have the same buggy, even have the same tires. Thanks for the cool video.

[@toddmattoxjr5747]

Good stuff dude!

[@Mo_2118]

runs and rides good now!

[@IngenGarage]

Hopefully it will stay like that lol!

[@d.l.horton2093]

I rebuilt my first engine at your age I think. It was a 1974 XL250. I'm sure yours will go better than mine did. I didn't clean the oil screen and it starved the top end and after I fixed that a friend dropped a bolt down the top by the valves and it got caught in the cam chain. And he didn't tell me until I found it chewed up in the engine. I gave up on that bike.

[@IngenGarage]

Dang man thats crazy, but yk as we go along we learn and we learn and we learn.

[@stevenixon9022]

When it comes to installing the cylinder onto the piston, do the piston ring gaps have a particular orientation?

[@IngenGarage]

Yes, the oiling ring and the wiper rings have to be clock apart. The two compression rings need to also be clocked apart from each other. The top ring will have "A" or "1st" second will be "B" or 2nd, the numbers or letters will always face up. Pretty much just put them all opposite of each other and you will be all set.

[@stevenixon9022]

Thanks for the info!

[@gordogordo1613]

I have a leak at the back of the motor, where the 4 bolt square flange is. Can I change that seal with out tearing the motor apart?

[@IngenGarage]

I would assume so but you are going to have to unbolt the drive shaft to get access to it which is pretty challenging when it is in the chassis. I am sure you can replace it with the engine assembled, just get a pry bar and carefully pry it out and clean the surface and hammer in a new one with a large socket until it is flush and fully seats then reassemble everything and it should work fine. I still got a leak going to the oil cooler I need to fix but ill get around to it soon lol.

[@itsthecodygoodnight]

Hi I have the same motor. So you use rtv on the head cover? Because I have a small oil leak from there. And I couldn’t find a gasket for it.

[@IngenGarage]

Yeah where the valve cover with the rocker arms goes on the head you need RTV. Make sure you got the 2 black circles on each side tho that go on each end of the cam. I used red RTV because obviously the head gets extremely hot and it says it stops oil too so I used it. Word of advice only use a very little bit just enough to coat the surface because it is a machined surface and too much will moosh out and that will make a big mess and it will go in the engine. Just remember only a little bit.

[@charlesvancil2858]

I'm having trouble get the timing chain on the sprocket any tips?

[@IngenGarage]

Take the tensioner completely out obviously, put the chain toward the inside over the cam then rotate it while pulling on the chain and it should just pop on. It is really frustrating trust me!

[@drewhebert2293]

I’m about to do a new piston and jug on mine is there anyway you could give me the torque specs from the jug up?

[@IngenGarage]

Not fully sure exactly, I just snugged the smaller bolts up a good bit with loctite but not over tighten, maybe like 8-10 ftlbs. the head bolts I put a tiny bit of antiseeze on them and torqued them to 16-20 ftlbs or so. Again not fully sure but im sure there some proper instructions somewhere online but I just did it with common sense on mine, get them pretty tight but make sure they are all the same torque so the head seats right and doesn’t warp.