Great video covering the same issues I needed to solve on my AC sleds, a ZR 8000 and XF 9000. I've tried various carbide versions as well, Qualipiece offsets and Dooly 6 inch carbides with hefty hostbars. BTW, excellent video and audio setup and quality.
@SwankyCatProductions Жыл бұрын
Thanks! Did you get your sleds figured out? I tried a new set of skis after this that really did the trick!
@edlonglad3230 Жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions Easing off the front track shock preload to the manual's specs really helped a lot late last season. Will see how well it does in Quebec in January. What skis did you end up with? Maybe that's my next step too. I'm also really interested in your camera and mic setup. Really works well with minimal outside/engine noise.
@richardkoehler99172 жыл бұрын
Number one you shouldn't be racing into the corners because of incoming traffic in the first place but these arctic cats come with a shallow ski by putting a six inch double carbide runner will make a huge differents
@shperax3 жыл бұрын
Hey, you already know what I'm going to say. Snow Tracker. They are expensive because they work amazing.
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
Ha ha I'll definitely give them a shot some day!
@Goober48842 жыл бұрын
I have those on my 800 Cat and they are awesome but you really need to dial in the suspension and have zero toe in on the skis or they can be dangerous when the hook up on a corner.
@sunsledder3 жыл бұрын
I'm with John Rafferty on this one, lighter preload on the front should lower the nose and add weight to the skis. I've had several Cats and shorter front limiter strap position is a bigger benefit for front end handling. Lowering front preload back to stock, and lowering rear preload to the lowest setting with a shorter front limiter is sometimes what's needed for a rider at or under 200lbs dressed. Your ride will improve dramatically as well, and ski lift will be controlled. I'm in Merrill, WI, love watching your stuff, ride as much as I can, be safe out there! Curt
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
Hey Curt, I think you're probably right. Limiter straps would've been a better idea and would've let me keep a lower front end height. You too!
@TheCuttingtorch2 жыл бұрын
You def dont want to remove all that preload... or go ahead and see for yourself but you will be back to adding the preload again. Without the preload you will increase body roll and it will be harder to hold a line and probrably increase darting because lack of ski pressure. The more spring preload the more the ski is pushing against the ground and supporting more of the weight of sled/rider.. You have 3 points supporting the sled, skis and track. So finding the balance distribution between the 3 is key. Also you dont seem like you weigh a lot so youre probrably good with the soft or medium on the rear torsion spring. Make sure the rear suspension compresses 2-3" as soon as you get on.
@sunsledder2 жыл бұрын
I'll be watching your newest videos this evening, hopefully youre getting close to finding the right combination. Lots of trial and error until you're happy.
@mikeh40532 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions limiter straps are never the right idea. its last resort.
@moparsrt394114 күн бұрын
You work on sleds? Im from Minnesota need some help gettin my sled dialed in to my weight
@Goober48843 жыл бұрын
On the limiter straps those should be your go to as a very last resort to add front ski pressure as you compromise your amount of suspension travel as you pull those straps tighter.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Agreed, seems like that's the first thing everyone says but I think that's the easy way out.
@barefootbob12692 жыл бұрын
Will have very little effect on travel unless you pull extremely tight and then still not much.
@sunsledder2 жыл бұрын
Cats like to pivot on the center shock...which most riders find unnerving. Lowering center shock preload, like you've done, helps, but ski lift in turns, poor front end handling, and body roll generally benefit from one hole shorter on the front limiter. It will not shorten your suspension travel if you go one hole... Which is probably enough to keep the rails from transferring too much weight and rolling side to side.
@matad3112 жыл бұрын
The best description for ski pressure is think of it as a teeter totter. Center point is the belly pan between the front suspension and track. Stiffening the front shocks will shift the weight rearward. The front skid shock with more preload will give you more preload but will make the sled more tippy. The rear spring blocks are more for ridder weight vs ski pressure. Add if you really need ski pressure tighten the limiter straps all the way tight and that will keep the skid shock collapsed more keeping more weight down in the front.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
The teeter totter example is exactly why I thought adding preload sounded so backwards. But now that I've tested it and thought about it more it actually makes total sense (for this sled anyways). If you were laying on your stomach whole holding yourself up with both your back muscles (front skid spring) and your arms (skis). If your back muscles stay in the same spot, pushing down with your arms is going to add more pressure just like increasing ski pressure by cranking the preload. Same goes for removing it.
@jeffnicks21282 жыл бұрын
i struggle with it as well I put 8 dooleys on and it s pretty close so I just keep riding have a good one Ben
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
The struggle is real!!! Ha ha. You too Jeff!
@aaronmcfee5062 жыл бұрын
I have a 2022 riot 8000 and I Was having troubles with the front end washing out, and it turns out they come stock with super shitty stock 3 inch carbides
@Goober48843 жыл бұрын
You are being counterproductive by adding preload to the front and back. If your skis are pushing the corners you need to place more pressure on the front end and to do this you lessen the preload on the skis. Imagine a teeter totter with your centre shock being the fulcrum. Your rear springs are only in place to set sag which relates to your weight on the sled with all gear and equipment extra gas etc. by loosening the centre shock you lessen the degree of transfer back and forth from front to rear. If your track slides out in corners that’s when you tighten the front shocks to heighten the front end and add pressure to the rear. By loosening the middle shock you also make the steering heavier and by tightening it the centre of the teeter totter will be higher making the steering lighter. Hope that helps a bit. Look up videos from Accelerated Technologies as they have suspension issues figured out and have the front end of the sleds sitting way lower centre of gravity than you think they should be but they corner on rails. .
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
What your saying makes total sense to me. In fact it's exactly what I did on my F1100 to make it stop pushing back when I had dual carbides on it. Got the front as low as it would go thinking that would drop more weight on it. Honestly if it wasn't for that shop telling us to try adding preload to the front I would never have gone that way and the whole time I kept thinking it didn't make sense but honestly it made a big difference.
@toddwestmorland83013 жыл бұрын
I had a 2016 sr viper and went to a single carbide ski/ carbide and also increased the front spring preload all the way up and the rear adjustment soften all the way and it helped. I think those 4 stroke engines are to heavy in the front. So I looked at it in the opposite of the normal
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
I think the 3 cylinders are a bit heavier than the 2 cylinder Suzuki I have in my F1100 so I can see that throwing things off. As long is it rides how YOU want it too that's all that matters!
@gentjim50073 жыл бұрын
I think the difference between your f1100 and that zr is engine weight. So if you want the 600 to handle like your sled I would change the limiter straps to put more weight on the front. Then put your rear settings back to normal. As for carbides, I've always used stud boy shaper bars. I'm a big guy (300+) and I've always liked a very planted front end. Steering effort isn't an issue for me, rather than that cornering on rails feel. I use 10 inch carbide. The rod itself actually does most of the steering work so there's a big difference between round, square, and finally the extruded shaper rod. Your carbide really only helps on ice and at the gas station lol! 1 final tip. Only make 1 suspension change at a time. That way you get a feel for the change and can differentiate which change helped or hurt. It's inconvenient but racers have been doing it forever. Testing always helps!
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
Makes sense, good info thanks! I guess I didn't really explain it but the shop actually said to do both at once, seemed a little odd to me too. Didn't really turn out very well either lol.
@MarcelCuthbert Жыл бұрын
Possibly pull in limiter straps 1\2inch
@Bobby_Danger2 жыл бұрын
If you're looking for more ski pressure loosen the preload on the skis and bring the front end down
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
I would 100% agree with you guys if I had not been told to try this by the performance shop there's no way I would have went this direction. Really did seem to work though.
@ajbertelson98712 жыл бұрын
when adjusting the limiter straps you have to have the skis on concrete and jack the rear end up at the bumper. Lower it down and see if the rail touches the ground at the same time. If the front touches then you have to suck up the straps. bear in mind this will affect all other adjustments.
@dmett38282 жыл бұрын
Maybe try the limiter. And yes, i do love the scenery. 👍
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Yeah... I think with the light front end in this sled that would've made a big difference.
@johnrafferty52663 жыл бұрын
If you are getting slippage on the skis go to a more aggressive carbide, the only downside is the extra effort to turn. Just don't go to aggressive. You can then go back to the original spring settings. One thing I've noticed on my cats is the limiter straps allow the skis to be light under light to heavy throttle, I drilled an extra hole in my limiter straps to tighten them up 1/2 the distance of the first hole in the strap, this helped. Every one has different riding prefrence.
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
The 6" SPI's on my F1100 seem to work awesome! I do wonder if pulling the limiters down like you did would have fixed the majority of the issues on the ZR...
@johnrafferty52662 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions its possible, but the sharper the carbides are the better they cut on icey trails once the carbides loose there edge the wont turn as aggressive on icey trails. Flip the sled on its side and examine your carbides. Gotta say I really enjoy your videos keep up the good work.
@mobilewintercamp75152 жыл бұрын
What about rear coupling blocks? It helped a friend of mine on a Skidoo
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Just moved those up to 3 after I put some new skis on it. Seems like that really helped keep the skis from lifting.
@deanretzlaff22532 жыл бұрын
Maybe a bigger carbide runner on skis will help turn in the corners or just sharper the carbide runners that are on there now..they have bits you can put in a drill to sharpen them..
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Just put some new skis with aggressive carbides on it. Made a huge difference!
@rmiller57482 жыл бұрын
I bought a 137 first time owning one. brand new stock carbides two rides in and had to go buy 6 inch Woody's shaper bars I think they were called "Aces", anyways the host bar are squared more like a keel they work fantastic little expensive but I won't run anything else now. I'm not studded but a 137 will push more than a 129 maybe not a lot but will push anyhow good luck
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
I really like my 6 inch SPI slashers on my F1100 with the studded 129. Makes a huge difference!
@loganroberge76322 жыл бұрын
Suspension setting is huge. I'd start with getting ride height set first then start tweeking from there. There is usually a measurement in the manual for when your sitting on sale. Having a second set of hands helps this huge.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
I'm not sure if there is actually a sag setting on the manual, I think it just gives you a weight chart but that is definitely the place to start. Not sure why the shop said we should increase the rear, certainly didn't help lol.
@loganroberge76322 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions most don't have a clue tbh. Having the rear increased is definitely not going to help darting in any way . You want the sled to transfer the weight .
@loganroberge76322 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions I'd shoot for like 2" of sag when sitting on the sled. Should get you in ballpark to start adjusting other ends of the sled
@HergyTime2 жыл бұрын
I have a ZR6000r XC exact same issue man. I cannot get more pressure on on the skis. Everywhere and everyone said these thing handle well. Man... they just suck
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
In the next video I put some aftermarket skis on with 9" shapers. They make a WORLD of difference! With some adjustments to the springs the thing corners better then my sled. Honestly though I'd try 6 or 9 inch carbides on stock skis first, should be well worth the money and effort!
@gilltherrien65693 жыл бұрын
Normally rear torsion springs are to set your ride height and is based on rider weight. If you weigh less than 240 lbs with your gear on you should never use the high setting on the rear torsions. I had the same issue with my F800 I lower the are pressure on the front (Mine has the fox floats) but less pressure in front should bite better.
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
I find the mid setting on the rear to be best for me... I guess I'm not sure what I weight with my gear on, maybe I do fall into that slot but the lightest seems to light. Not sure I follow you on the lighter pressure on the front creating more bite... More pressure should mean more traction?
@stevenmaines91142 жыл бұрын
Gill your rite.. ifnurnheavy u putnthe torson blocks up ... Has noth thing to do with that ... Ur not gunna get good handling with stock shock rates u need have them.valved . Stock skis suck unless u use single carbid and thenrite leanth
@dan69cam11 ай бұрын
@@stevenmaines9114Jesus Christ, proofread before you post
@stevenmaines911411 ай бұрын
@@dan69cam one year ago ??
@tomcat69332 жыл бұрын
I bet it runs a hell of a lot better than my 1972 suzuki 400 sled. Lol
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Haha idk man that sounds pretty sweet!
@barefootbob12692 жыл бұрын
Many schools of thought here and each machine will respond slightly different. With that said increase rear preload reduce center shock and ski preload then just take the slack out of the limit strap just so it is not taught. Then go give that kitty a run you should be surprised. Oh and many will disagree but final slim Jim dooly.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
I think limiters definitely would have helped on this sled but we went a different direction that also worked, more on that tomorrow!
@thesupernad2 жыл бұрын
that's just the way sleds ride imo
@mikeh40532 жыл бұрын
you don't want to increase preload on the spring if you pushing through corners. you go the other way for the idea that is digs/grabs quicker. your right, just looking like you know what your doing, but you don't.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Wasn't my idea, it was a tip from a performance shop and it definitely worked? It does seem backwards, you would think removing preload and lowering the front would put more weight on the skis but after several days of testing that does not seem to be the case, not on this sled anyways.
@mikeh40532 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions well how something feels is an opinion. read the basic manual and you will see. It will still ride down the trail no matter what you set it to. your just missing out on a lot of potential of the sled. Don't take this personal, but i don't think it matters as it doesn't look like your gonna tap into what it is capable of.
@SwankyCatProductions2 жыл бұрын
Direct from the 2019 ZR6000 Arctic Cat Manual at CountryCat.com (Full Link below). "Adjusting Front (Ski) Shock Springs - The front (ski) shock springs are individually adjustable for the terrain conditions and driving style of the operator. The spring adjuster nut has been set at the factory so the correct amount of threads are exposed between the adjuster nut and the threaded shock body as an initial setting. Additional ski pressure can be obtained by tightening the spring tension; ski pressure can be decreased by relaxing spring tension." This can be found on page 39 of this manual support.countrycat.com/posts/3650630-2019-zr-xf-m-pantera-norseman-6000-8000-operator-s-manual
@mikeh40532 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions video showing it, what you are trying to achieve is incorrect. I can tell you how to set a sled up, and a cat with c&a skis as i been running them for years
@mikeh40532 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions what your not understanding is adding pre load to the front shock, yes you might technically adding ski pressure. however the result of increasing load on the spring makes it easier to turn, however, the feel you will find is it will push through the corner. yes your reading it from the manual, but your not understanding what the result is on the ride.
@rprovasoli3 жыл бұрын
just a tip, jack up the frontor lean up on the side of the sled before added pre-load makes it a little easier. Try disconnecting the sway bar. The skis will act more independently.
@SwankyCatProductions3 жыл бұрын
Haha yeah I suppose that would make things much easier wouldn't it. I've always heard about people taking them out but doesn't that create more ski lift?
@rprovasoli3 жыл бұрын
@@SwankyCatProductions through my experience no. You might need more preload when doing this. When you disconnect it no longer borrows spring pressure from the other side. This allows full travel of the inside ski