Arduino Digital Power Supply - part 2 | first attempt

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I've tried to make my own digital power supply. The voltage control kind of works but there is still a lot to do. So stay tuned for future updates. You have everything below if you wan tto see more about this project.
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#Arduino #digital #supply

[@ELECTRONOOBS]

Want to help my workshop: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS Thank you so much!

[@raghavsrivastava2910]

Great

[@confusedengineer7424]

you really need a shunt resistor for precision current control and a frequency about 60-100k good for the buck converter and Arduino lacks its. So try changing PWM frequency little higher with a Shunt Resistor and a improve output filter it will be a lot better.

[@barrymayson2492]

Always learn something new here. It is sometimes almost a blessing when things don't work first time it makes you think and work out the problems and is some of the fun in finding a solution. Many thanks for great video.

[@nooruddinpanjwani8573]

You need not say sorry. You did a great job my dear. Please add some more feature 1. Use display at least double the size because when digital display will be mounted on a cabinet it be convinient to view and use it. 2. Add memory for current and voltage settings. Add a sound buzzer for short circuit condition. 3. Add all features as in DPS5005. I'm interested in making your this project with above suggested modification. Please let me know as and when you finish.👌👌👍👍

[@snbhmmz]

For reading current it may be better to use small value of resistance and amplify it's reading voltage

[@hannnnn310]

5:05 FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER

[@tomgeorge3726]

Have you looked at the DC OUTPUT with the scope, rather than the DMM, to see how much ripple you have?

[@FreeCircuitLab]

Why didn't you use an SMPS? If we drive The optocoupler by microcontroller, we don't need the buck converter. And also SMPS is more efficient and powerful than linear transformer supply.

[@thinukadanthila4305]

u are a electro-pro not a noob

[@dimitriosvlamis8696]

I think you should use a different method to put the current value in the arduino. AnalogRead is very slow, try utilising a lower resolution, but higher sample rate setting from the atmega328 registers. Or even better, use the STM32 dev boards that cost same money and you get better adc resolution, faster sampling rate (200K preset instead of 16K) aka use the blue pill. Also get rid of the hall effect current sensor, which has internally limited response time, and put a current shunt resistor with a AD8215 chip to level shift the voltage drop to readable values for the microcontroller.

[@isprithul]

Is there any through hole IC like the AD8215 that can do the same job? A completely through hole power supply would be really nice. I want to make one.

[@matthewcooke4477]

Seeing this done using a teensy 4.0-4.1 would be awesome

[@webslinger2011]

Nice project. Can make one using am ordinary 16x2 lcd?

[@engrjolo1631]

The arduino adc is not precise enough. I think it would be better to use 16 bit adc.

[@GRBtutorials]

You should use a shunt resistor & op-amp as amplifier instead of the MAX471. Measuring the current at the input of the buck converter is a big no-no because of inefficiencies. And the current being off by more than 1 % is a big deal in a lab PSU.

[@stealthBae]

What do you think of the INA219B for your current senso?. It seems to me as a quite accurate sensor

[@vivekchauhan7468]

Hay bro, great video, But you also can use 7805 voltage regulator ic instend of smaller one buck converter to power lcd and microcontroller......

[@ivolol]

7805 will be very inefficient from 30v. Some 7805 models might only be rated to 25v input even. Switching down to 12 or 7v and regulating from there is much safer.

[@ivolol]

Generally you want to create a analogue stage which does all the output control & feedback, and simply reads values to use from a DAC circuit(s) that come from your digital stage. In the above case you're mixing them by including the digital in the control of current, and the digital will slow it down too much.

[@jddr.jkindle9708]

We appreciate your efforts!

[@Danixu86]

I was thinking in a project like this, and now i'm in love of the TFT screen. On my project for now I'll not use the TFT screen, but I've thought to use an ATMega328 as a brain and an ATTiny85 to manage the PWM of every chanel (I also want to make it multichannel). With this configuration the PWM signal is managed separately from separated ATTiny85 and then if ATMega328 have any slowdown, the output is not affected. Also I think that the UART communication is the bad thing of this screen.

[@jussapitka6041]

With rating the capacitor, you have to remember that the output from the diode bridge is the transformer RMS voltage x square root of 2.

[@prashantajabe2693]

Make a video on eagle PCB Designing tutorial which include the how to select the components, how place components for avoiding interference etc.

[@juhopeltola3993]

Cool. I made my power suply with atx power and boost converter to get 5.5v - 35v and buck converter to low voltage. Thru boost converter I get maximum of 150w which is good power for the size. I will ad touchscreen adjustments to it.

[@NNNILabs]

There's a saying somewhere that says 'never do something in software that can be done in hardware'. I guess this is apt for the power supply section. You could use a dedicated PWM controller chip that the Arduino could talk to.

[@paultakoy7091]

Great video series, thanks for making this series. Keep up the great work.

[@nickd2084]

Micro is too slow to be part of the closed loop.

[@vaguedirector_7342]

Yeah it would be better to use a DAC feeding into some sort of opamp circuit doing analog reference tracking, similar to the common electronic load circuits.

[@pfeerick]

Yeah, much better to use op amps to do any regulation.

[@int2str]

Define "too slow"? I would argue it's perfectly fine. He already said, there's better circuits out there (op-amp etc.). But you can do it like this. The problem I see is that the *CODE* is way too slow. It's reading and writing serial bytes to/from the display in a blocking fashion, which keeps it from regulating while that's going on. An easy, probably 100x (yes) speed improvement could probably be achieved with these techniques: - Move serial read/write to asynchronous or interrupt driven (ex. read 1 byte per loop only) - Move ADC reading to be interrupt driven - Check datasheet if there is a different way to use display that sends binary commands, not long text strings - Check if I2C is available to talk to the display rather than Serial. - Move serial to be interrupt driven, if not - Use direct PORT access, not analogRead, digitalWrite etc. With these changes, you can easily do near-realtime monitoring and control. For example, I have an ATMega328P powered electric vehicle (high voltage) charging station that samples an ADC at over 1kHz, updates a display checks buttons and more at 30Hz etc. And some of these items listed are not very advanced and can easily be done, even within the Arduino IDE. So looking forward to the "second attempt" video, hopefully with some of the optimizations

[@vinayladwal3096]

Every thing depends on how do you do a timing analysis of code i made a 5kW boost converter that was running on switching freq of 10k using arduino mega and that too was a closed loop algorithm PI controller. Only difference was using a arduino mega but code written in AVR studio

[@MrArif009]

for more current precision you may be use INA 219 current sensor.

[@debasishmanna5604]

Great Video sir... sir Would you make a digital power supply with cimputer smps. And with the nexon display touch system digital system..

[@akshaykolekar5903]

You can use lm7805 instead of buck converter for 5 volts. (6:36)

[@stewartrv]

I think you should use a Bluepill instead of the Arduino so you get 12bit ADC and then why don't you use a standard Buck (PWM) chip like a LM2576HV-Adj and then use digital Pots or R2R ADC to set the voltage. The arduino speed is then no longer an issue and the feedback loop is handled by the chip! You can still read the voltage and current with ADC's. Maybe also don't need a current sensor if you get a shunt and op amp to measure the voltage across it. This is how Ii've been looking at building one like this. For speed or simplicity you can get an off the shelf regulator and replace the pots as above.

[@electronic7979]

Excellent project 👍

[@vinayladwal3096]

If you are so concern about refresh rate use two arduino one that is responsible for recieving commands from screen and simply sends a command to main arduino if needed for example seperate the code for serial communication from the code that is responsible for control and protection of buck converter. Like if you understand and find this useful. You can utilize I2C to make communication between arduinos.

[@FixDaily]

You can not use an arduino to control the PWM of a PSU, that takes forever to stabilize the output and you'll end up burning your load. Also your code compares and increase \ decrease the PWM until you reach the correct value if the needed value is on the otherside of the scale, it will take longer. You need to use opamps and set a reference voltage with the arduino, and the opamp will follow it, this way you can control the Voltage and Current. Also arduino ADC is only 10bits, you'll not have enough precision.

[@mac_uk5464]

Is this how the DP3003 power modules (As adds on eBay shops) work, only using an STM32F board. I would try putting the current limiting circuit in the neutral side of the circuit, so the voltage to the load is not reduced (If this is possible) & use an STM32F board. I've just bought a DP5005 module & they are great, but the screen is so blooming tiny, with your version you 'd have a larger screen, as you did.

[@RecehDIY]

this kind of PSU is good it would be nice if using i2c lcd and rotary encoder.

[@jesuscardona5184]

I love your videos. Thanks.

[@md.abdulhai1967]

Nice your project

[@isprithul]

Use a separate buck converter chip. Feed dac value from Arduino. This is the way DPS5005 works.

[@jussapitka6041]

A rotary encoder and a 16x2 or 20x4 lcd would allow more intuitive control and better refresh rate.

[@stephanedenis5394]

Nice project and very informative. I can not wait to follow you in the different evolutions. I have a nextion and it is really very slow ...

[@rafaelcabelo6616]

Nice project but I think you are getting a hard way. You can simplify just creating a ref voltage with the Arduino to an RC filter and opamp and connecting to feedback pin of buck converter you are using for.

[@ishwakrahman5570]

If we buy a buck converter online, can we control its voltage with the arduino so I can control it digitally?

[@horstschlammer8196]

Cool Project for understanding 👍

[@rockrock4478]

IRFZ44N this is a N type, and in the picture the P type is correct?

[@shivamkurzekar1732]

Awesome..♥️

[@pupplecoffee]

I also failed with micro-controlled regulator. I think triangle wave comparator regulation is more good.

[@MCsCreations]

That's really nice!!!!

[@emilioemilio1710]

Hola, harás este mismo video en español? Para tu canal en español que estoy también.

[@melnedgars7273]

Hi! Great work! It would be interesting to see output voltage ripple at full load and transient response of Your PSU ;) Also have you considered to add BT module and control it with smartphone?

[@XtianTechno]

Perfect!

[@vestkok5194]

Hi Electronoobs, is there an update on this project? =)

[@engrjolo1631]

What capacitor did you use in the input?

[@dhruvchikhaliya3464]

You are my favorite.

[@ShridattDudhat]

Anyway this is great attempt appreciate 👏 If possible please make video about how we can eliminate bulky transformer to step down ac ?

[@vivekchauhan7468]

By using smps

[@raghavsrivastava2910]

Why not use a digital potentiometer and a commercial buck converter, remove its potentiometer and replace with a digital potentiometer...

[@dhruvchikhaliya3464]

But that overkill the project.

[@GRBtutorials]

Digital potentiometers are incredibly crappy. They have at most 10 bits of precision, which means that the least significant digit in this PSU would be about 30 mV or 0.03 V. And most of them have only 8 bits, which is 4 times less precise! Fortunately, we don't need a digipot, we can simply apply an analog signal to the feedback pin of the buck converter using a DAC.

[@raghavsrivastava2910]

@@GRBtutorials 8 bit is also available

[@petzi8695]

Verry interesting

[@Shubham-jr8nc]

Hey, my HC05 Bluetooth module got burn. My mini resistor got burn which is next to the reset switch. What can I do to repair the Bluetooth module

[@DarrynJones]

Could you please link to Part 1 in the description?

[@krishnawa_]

I'm also working on same project

[@batcircuit4742]

please make another video on THE FPGA Verilog...........plzz

[@saheenpalayi]

why u didnt use a SMPS instead the transformer ?

[@GRBtutorials]

Why do you use a transformer if you're going to use a DC-DC converter afterwards? It'd make more sense to use an SMPS for 230 V to 30 V, which is more efficient, lighter, and usually cheaper.

[@SantaDragon]

Very sad ... I cant find a complete fow how to build this power supply or the rest of the build.

[@Evgen-Evgen-Evgen]

8:04 probably because first time it wasn't and capacitor is blew up))

[@teamahabhouna5464]

0:09 banana...... 0:11 gone !

[@UpcycleElectronics]

Hey dude, go watch the upload from Rodger on Kainka Labs YT channel about the old transistor tester he tore down recently. He shows a schematic that is super easy to follow. It is well divided into different analogue circuit blocks. These blocks include a simple adjustable current source and separate adjustable high voltage source. These two circuit blocks are done using a single TL082 dual op amp for the current source and a single TL081 for the voltage source. The voltage side is designed for 0-120V at 2mA. The current source circuit IIRC adjusts from 2uA to 2A using switched resistors. ...anyways... I asked Rodger about a zener reference configuration that is used between the two circuit blocks. Basically, the setting for the 0-120V voltage source is a 10k potentiometer in parallel with a 5V6 zener diode. So, this circuit would be perfect for using a voltage output DAC. If the series pass transistor is replaced with a better version this circuit could be handy for adjusting higher currents as well. The best part of the example is it's clear demonstration of how to setup the op amp and pass transistor with voltages higher than the maximum rated voltage of the op amp. Regardless, that upload, and schematic are a great reference to save. I saved it to my power supply playlist and a few others. If you are going to use a MCU to build a power supply though, I think PICs are the way to go. You can get an op amp, DAC, ADC, comparator, voltage reference, independently configured logic, and flexible peripheral pin reconfiguration on board.... but it is a whole lot more of a pain than an Arduino...or so I'm learning....while I keep getting and using more Arduino's for projects. It's funny that learning another MCU is a project. While playing with Arduino's is a way to do projects now. -Jake Edited: if you are going to build a setup like this with the ability to program the MCU with USB, think about using an Arduino Pro Mini. Then grab the English translated datasheet for the CH340G USB to Serial converter chip. There is a simple schematic on that datasheet for adding optical isolation using a few cheap PC817's. It doesn't add much circuitry, and you'll need to add one extra channel for the DTR to Arduino Reset pin for programming. This will probably save someone's computer from getting fried if a bad connection is made or a failure happens ;)

[@razvaizman5626]

full bridge rectifier!!!!!!!!!!!

[@GRBtutorials]

6:03 Are you applying 15 W of power to that poor 5 W resistor? You monster! ;)

[@geekyfreak7920]

please make Despacito Cover Song!!!!!!!!!! i love your content please your voice is very beautiful i wanna hear Despacito in your beautiful voice ~

[@thecuriousone9342]

You see electronoobs you click on the video

[@TheMrRedBeard]

There's your problem, you didn't connect the banana

[@theBartek74]

FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!

[@krishnawa_]

Electro booms

[@skyem5250]

What's with the banana?

[@1337PANDA]

that's a reference according which the viewers can get the real size of the components or parts

[@skyem5250]

@@1337PANDA if that's the case, it's not a very good one because bananas vary greatly in size

[@pinkysharma8884]

Hey bother I will like watching you make a transistor tester using arduino I know you make a number of videos on voltage and current measurement but I will like watching it

[@ItisImarko]

Rotary encoder for voltage control... Trust me.. You will get anoyed if you don't have one

[@addiction-69]

Noob; From which country are you belong to???

[@SIKHGT650]

First liked , than watched later , again and again

[@addiction-69]

Noob make a Arduino base balance charger......as New year 1st project

[@webslinger2011]

Nice project. Can make one using am ordinary 16x2 lcd?

[@webslinger2011]

Oh, also knob or button control if possible.