Are 0.4 Nozzles Really Obsolete in Cura V5.1?

[@FilamentFriday]

I’ve had many question how to load the profiles. Here’s a quick video showing how it’s done. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3unYpt5f9WAldk

[@erlakijeno3456]

CHEP. I would like to ask: In the linked video, I saw the CR10S Pro among the devices, can these files also be applied to it? Or do you need some modifications? (Excluding the filament material. Because its characteristics must be specified.) Thanks for the answer, in advance.

[@FilamentFriday]

Any Creality printer should work fine with them.

[@erlakijeno3456]

@@FilamentFriday Thank You very much!

[@toepunch001]

@CHEP I’d like to see .5 nozzle

[@FilamentFriday]

A lot of comments seem to be focusing on volume differences of the nozzles and missing the point of my video. I talked about how the 0.6 size required more heat and less speed to get good flow characteristics. I was surprised how good my Extra Fast 0.4 profiles worked so I’m not abandoning 0.4 as Tom suggested. But I’m not abandoning 0.6 either. It has its place. In fact I’m looking at smaller nozzles now since Arachne handles flow adjustment so well. What I should have said is the key advantage to Arachne is it expands the capability of smaller nozzles. A smaller nozzle gives the detail because essentially the nozzle sets the minimum extrusion width while Arachne then sets the max (2x minimum extrusion width) to reduce print time and fill in larger areas.

[@eddyvanbladel2057]

Hi CHEP, i think also that every nozzle size has its purpose . But i have a question for you, is it possible to make youre profiles with temp setiings that are not locked but loading in from the filament ? Or the other way around, how come the temp settings or now locked on the 5.x Cura profiles ? Thanks in advance ! grts Eddy

[@FilamentFriday]

@@eddyvanbladel2057 - I locked it because of user issues/feedback.

[@kjpierson1152]

Seems to be another case of everyone jumping on a bandwagon yet again, without understanding the anything behind the scenes or situational occurrences.

[@petercallison5765]

Many thanks for all the hard work. One of the reasons I installed a 0.6 is I have heard there is less chance of clogs. Your 0.4 profile uses 0.42 line width so I used 0.63 for the 0.6 nozzle. It seemed logical. I got a very good benchy.

[@FilamentFriday]

Use an Ender 3 pro machine profile after loading the .3MF and the profile will be there.

[@Brocknoviatch]

CNC kitchen just dropped a video showing how you can take a V6 nozzle and make it high flow. You should try it with the 0.6 nozzle, it looks like it would solve your ability to heat the filament properly and go faster.

[@MrDdaland]

One thing I like about you, you can disagree with someone else, show why you come to a different conclusion, but conclude in such a way that admits the possibility that your wrong

[@uwezimmermann5427]

I was also very skeptical when I heard Tom's argument. By the way, the 0.6 mm nozzle is not only 50% larger then 0.4 mm - it is more than double the size because the area of the opening is what matters and the area scaled with the diameter squared. I will not give up my 0.4 mm nozzle any time soon - also most of my prints are mechanical parts where I need the precision and speed is of minor concern.

[@BratislavILIC65]

Exactly, it is actually 1.5*1.5=2.25 times larger volume everything else being equal…

[@starguy9]

These fast print profiles you create are game changers for me. They truly make the ender pro 2 a rapid prototype machine. I have moved forward into design because of them. Before I wouldn't try to print models I made to see the fit and would give up due to the shear amount of time , but now I print them rapidly to check the fit. Thanks again. Nothing like making your own designs and being able to see them come to reality fast.

[@beardedavengers601]

Took a 12 hour print down to 8 hours and turned out perfect 😃 Thanks so much CHEP. You are my go to 3D Printer KZbinr.

[@EK1H]

0.4mm nozzle allows you to waste less plastic on top layer support infill. Also allows single perimeter walls of only 0.4mm and narrower nozzles also ooze and string less and have support material that's easier to break off.

[@bonose12]

Didn’t expect that. But…I'm confident you can tweak Cura to take advantage of the extra flow. Great job and we so appreciate the effort and skill.

[@Ringwraith19]

Just printed a shelf that used to take me 7 hours in 6hrs 17 min in 3 hrs 13 min using the FFV 5.1_EF(.28mm) profile. THANK YOU. Your contributions are very helpful. I will be supporting your efforts soon.

[@octopusNavi]

Amazing. I am using your hyper fast profile and it saved me many hours of work. Thanks Chuck.

[@hoagytech]

While the diameter of the nozzle increases 150%, the area increases 225% (I spent too many years in the pizza business arguing the difference between their 14" "large" vs our 16" large 😉) so you're actually pushing even more filament. Also, shouldn't the layer height with a .6 nozzle be set to .4 or .42 to make a fair comparison to a .4 nozzle with a .28 layer height (instead of the .32 you used)? In the end, I agree that there are use case arguments that can be made for keeping both nozzles in our arsenals.

[@josephpk4878]

0.4mm of plasticized filament is well balanced with the heating and cooling capabilities of a standard 3d printer. Without modifying the cooling capabilities (like hotter nozzle temps and blowing mechanically cooled air) and/or modifying the filament's capabilities (like narrowing the melting and cooling - glassing - window), you're not going to gain much by going bigger. Further more, the amount of fiddling necessary to make larger flows work to your advantage seems to be overkill. From 0% to 100% efficiency, the 0.4mm nozzle pretty much covers all of the bases.

[@Paul_______]

I'm using a 0.6cht and I have no issue pushing 20mm³/s and even higher. With a 0.6 I went from 3 walls to 2, 5 top/bottom to 3. Couple that with cura 5.1 I went from 10hrs to 5.5hrs. Standard 0.6mm nozzles are only good for about 15mm³/s max with best quality being at about 10-12mm³/s. A 0.6mm cht handles great at 15-18mm³/s and doesn't have issues until about 22mm³/s. Adding another 15c to the hotend amd a cht will push almost 30mm³/s. My 0.4 nozzle can't push a 0.68mm wide 0.4mm layer at 80mm/s actual speed like a cht 0.6 can

[@MechanizedMedic]

Aw jeeperz Chuck, lets call a spade a spade. The problem isn't the nozzle size, it's a lack of surface in the "melt zone". There are plenty of high flow solutions out there. For example, the CHT nozzles from BondTech drop straight in to solve all of the problems you mentioned.

[@zolar7a]

Thanks Chuck! Its fascinating to watch the innovation in 3d printing happening in real time.

[@Isaacrl67]

A 0.6mm nozzle isn't just 50% larger aperture than the 0.4mm, because circles. The area for the aperture on the 0.6mm is about 0.283mm^2 whereas the area for the 0.4mm nozzle aperture is 0.126mm^2, so it's about 125% larger of an opening.

[@SirSpence99]

The aperture size has minimal impact on flow rate in comparison to several other metrics. Each .1 change gives you a 10% change in flow rate on the *upper* end. Look up cnc kitchen's recent video and look up vector3d's video on flow rate comparisons. If you need higher flow rate, nozzle diameter should probably be the last place you look.

[@Grimm0ne]

I appreciate your work, but I don't find this to be a fair comparison... If you're not changing the wall thickness or top and bottom thickness between the nozzle sizes, then you are not utilizing the benefit of a larger nozzle. This is clearly the case as the 0.4 nozzle used 58g, while the 0.6 nozzle used 70g. A proper test would be with a set wall, top and bottom thickness, not x walls or layers. A better way to test in my own opinion would be a solid print comparison. This would eliminate any variation in walls, tops, bottoms or even infill, a true speed test.

[@wojciechprzybylski6438]

It works better with V6 or Volcano nozzle. Stock Ender 3 Mk 8 nozzles have too sharp tip to produce really wide line. I use Volcano 0.6 nozzle (0.8mm inner line width, and 0.2 outside) and won't go back to stock. I adjusted Chuck's 0.2 Cura profile and it works awesome 🙂

[@A_Concerned_Citizen]

Exactly, why be so biased over nozzle size lol

[@TheAndyroo770]

@@wojciechprzybylski6438 How you do 0.2mm line widths with a 0.6mm nozzle?

[@wojciechprzybylski6438]

@@TheAndyroo770 Cura allows you to change the line width. Just expand the line width menu. Arachne engine make it even easier, because adapts width when needed

[@TheAndyroo770]

@@wojciechprzybylski6438 Sure but the nozzle hole is 0.6mm so how is it doing 0.2?

[@RicardoSantaella]

man I love your tips, Saludos desde Santiago de Chile. I been wanting to get a 3d printer for over a year, watching your videos and tips. 3 days a go I got a used broken Ender 3. for arround 100$ and in 3 days and a 20$ in parts I got it printing super nice! . Thanks again

[@FilamentFriday]

Nice work.

[@lisan1010]

Can't thank you enough. I'm learning so much from your channel ! It's awesome the way you explain things.

[@jasonwu2758]

I try to explain things like this daily on fb groups and you just answer question it all with such a cool concise manner on questions I was going to ask sooner then later. Thanks again, Chuck!👍

[@macbeardie]

CNC Kitchen just released a video where a couple brass nuts and a volcano nozzle can increase melted plastic throughput. That's super easy modification even for beginners, coupled with the new version of Cura could have awesome speed benefits.

[@ChanWeinmeister]

Definitely glad to find your channel. Already bought your e-leveling and should be getting it from the amazons tomorrow. Going to try out the extra fast profiles RIGHT NOW...

[@davelordy]

I found that if I remove the nozzle completely, I can print at insane speeds.

[@DJEndemix]

3:03 lightbulbs going off above my head, thank you for the great explanation

[@dominikdangendorf4259]

I think this comparison is a bit wrong. Imo you should use same layer height because thats the Z resolution. After that use max volumetric flow in the slicer for both profiles. With your logic you can use a 0,25 nozzle and bet as fast as with the 0,4 nozzle.

[@jungofett]

If you have a BONDTECH CHT in 0.6 you will have enough volumetric flow to compisate for what chep is saying in regards to stock hotend but if you have a modded hotend and can get enough volumetric flow at the same speed as the 0.4 it should come out Clean on a 0.6 if it doesn't underextrude while it's printing.

[@reinux]

I wonder if you might also need a higher wattage heater at that point?

[@dmk_games]

@@reinux you won't need a higher wastage heater. Standard 40W heaters are never constantly on at full power.

[@dmk_games]

Running a hotter heatblock temp is required to make faster volumetric flow rates achieve the same plastic temperature.

[@jakobhansen1396]

@@dmk_games that is not how the CHT nozzle works, the splitting send more heat into the filament and not just around the filament

[@dmk_games]

@@jakobhansen1396 I understand how a CHT nozzle works and the basics of thermal energy transfer. Thermal energy flow = heat transfer coefficient × area × temperature difference. The CHT increases the transfer area (and the disruptive shape may also boost the coefficient by better mixing the polymer). Temperatures measured by 3d printers are heater block temperatures, not polymer temperatures. The faster heat is taken out of the nozzle by a polymer (e.g. because it is moving faster (this gives the polymer less time to heat up causing a higher Delta T which per the equation means faster heat transfer - but colder output polymer)) creates a steeper temperature gradient between the thermister and the melt zone. Increasing the temperature when pushing through higher volumes of polymer compensates for this by raising the temperature at the thermister such that the steeper gradient leaves the melt zone at the same temperatureas when printing slowly. (With potential negatives of degraded polymer if heated for too long or stringing especially on slower parts of the print.) Additionally raising temperature beyond will always transfer energy faster to polymer which can boost volumetric flow limits - with polymer degradation being the trade-off. However unless your printer cannot maintain a well PID tuned heater at the required temperature - you won't need a higher power heater cartridge.

[@BEG_Bueno]

Thanks again bud!, your extra fast profile has been a staple of mine for printing as long ive been printing!, that and the 0.2 variant is all I ever use.

[@wolffin100]

Chuck, love and appreciate the work you do for us , love my .4 nozzles and your profiles 👍👍💯

[@jarredcardon9285]

My Friday now has a whole new reason to be excited. Thanks Chep, my 3D skills are growing.

[@Cytotube2]

I absolutely love the professional back and forth between the 3D printing youtubers! You embrace each other's work and build on each other in amazing ways. One constructive note, the issue isn't simply that the 0.6mm nozel is 50% larger in diameter than the 0.4mm nozel, it's the difference in area, which is much much larger. The 0.6mm nozel area is 2.25 times larger than the 0.4mm nozel. As you said that means filament can fly though the nozel and is much more difficult to keep at temperature. I would love to see your attempts at optimizing 0.6 and 0.8 mm nozels, if you ever get the chance. I am mostly printing boardgame organizers and lithophanes, both on very different ends of the resolution needs spectrum. Some insight into fast and strong printing at the larger nozel size could be a huge benefit!

[@nimr0d85]

Sure, if you change to another nozzle diameter you need to adjust parameter to keep up the flow. I am pretty sure the community will provide good profiles for that soon. It's just a little bit early. I guess the most important factor is the capability of your hotend. If this became standard, the printer hotends will get adjusted accordingly over time by the manufacturers in their new printers.

[@karmakh]

Excellent points! I love your cool, constructive and clear criticism.

[@jcruzpt]

I appreciate that you made videos with the Ender 2 Pro. Thank you 👍👍

[@MetalRhino42]

I was actually using your hyper fast on my .6 nozzle before and getting great utility prints

[@MetalRhino42]

But I'm really excited for this

[@MCsCreations]

Really, really interesting indeed! 😃 Thanks, Chuck!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@bubbleman91]

I love the idea behind the thumbnail, I wish it was shown under Thomas's video 😄

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Thanks!

[@TechGorilla1987]

I am using your 2.0 profile (from the last Cura) and I am using it with a .6 nozzle. I don't think I have ever seen such smooth walls and prints. I'm not sure I want to change now!

[@konafuller6791]

In Cura did you change the nozzle size or you’re just running off the 0.4 still just with a .6 nozzle?

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@konafuller6791 I am using Cheps .20 Ender 2 Pro profile from his last video. I physically swapped to .6 and changed Cura to .6 on that profile.

[@konafuller6791]

@@TechGorilla1987 gonna try that today thanks!

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@konafuller6791 FYI - I am actually, physically using this profile on an original Ender 3 (heavily modified) even though his profile says Ender 2 Pro.

[@derekhawley9660]

Great video, as usual Chuck, thanks. I have a couple of printers and am trying a split strategy ... 0.4mm in one and 0.6mm in the other. I hope I didn't jump ship to 0.6mm to early :) Your videos are great help to us all and I really appreciate your help.

[@JustAlb1n]

I tried the 0.6 as well thinking I can print faster but everything was of, so went back to 0.4 and everything works as it should

[@shawnmcandrew6923]

Good video very informative, I want to see how the bondtech CHT 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles i have will handle the faster print profiles. The nozzles do allow for significantly faster heating of the filament. Only downside is they are only made for mk8printers.

[@davebarkerdesign]

Excellent content... I think I will keep my 0.4 for now and appreciate the thorough analysis!

[@samaipata4756]

CHEP you are my 3D PRINT GO-TO GUY for good reason!😉👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

[@Enthcreations]

04 nozzles can be tweaked even further. You can reduce the external wall thickness to 0.3 to increase definition and increase skin and infill lines to 0.6 to save time, and put the top skin layer to 0.3 again to have a neat top layer. The main issue with larger nozzles, I print with 1mm too, is that lines are so thick that it is almost impossible to cool them down and supports are hard to remove. At least you need a double gear extruder to keep pushing the filament consistently. Temps go up and retractions become almost ungovernable.

[@SwapnilNimbalkar]

After installing your profiles (especially 0.28 Extra Fast with 0.4mm nozzle) I had trouble maintaining nozzle temperature to a fixed point. It started to fluctuate, after PID tuning it was back to normal but can you explain this? Has anyone had this issue?

[@Keybkeybkeyb]

I'm following your channel from a long time and always appreciated your contents. But never actually tried your profiles until today. Wow, amazing difference! a good 40% less in real printing time, with a comparable quality (if not better...). I'm printing ABS on an Ender3 (one of the first models), and the only modifications I did were the nozzle temp (245C), the plate temp (103C) and the fan speed (set to 0). Alex

[@FilamentFriday]

Great feedback. Thanks.

[@MonkeyWithAWrench]

Basically, what I'm gathering is that you're having issues getting the material to properly melt fast enough with the .6mm nozzle because you're exceeding the melt capacity of the hotend, right? Could you take another shot at the .6mm with a Bondtech CHT nozzle? This would be an excellent test to see if the nozzle actually works as advertised in a real world scenario.

[@zeffofx]

I just noticed the thumbnail of this video is a direct correspondence from Tom's video, I chuckled a little.

[@KwinnyB42]

That's interesting. I recently switched to a 0.6mm nozzles, because of that video by Thomas and I was actually suffering from over extrusion, even at high speeds and after calibrating e-steps. I fixed that easily by turning down the flow, but I don't seem to be running into any problems with not being able to extrude enough plastic to make the 0.6 mm nozzle worth it. And no, I'm not using a volcano, just a normal ender 3 style hotend.

[@tylers2889]

The concept of slowing down for a 0.6 applies if you were running a 0.4 nozzle at it's basically it's speed limit, that is to say any faster and the hotend wouldn't be able melt plastic fast enough and you'd get underextrusion. Now, if you use that same speed and switch to a 0.6, you will certainly get underextrusion. If for example, 80 mm/s is the fastest you can go with a 0.4 without underextruding, you may have to slow down to 65 mm/s with a 0.6. (those numbers are a bit arbitrary but just to illustrate the concept).

[@mars9352]

thomas sanladerer compared .4 nozzle (.2 layer height) with .6 nozzle (.2 layer height), both stock profiles Chep compares .4 nozzle (.28 layer height) with .6 nozzle (.32 layer height), but one is a 'superfast' tuned profile, the other one isnt. How can you compare a tuned profile with a non-tuned profile and state the .4 looks better when you chose a different layer height? when slicing his models, the .4 model used 58g, the .6 70g. I assume he didn't compensate for the wider layer width. In theory, if sliced correctly, the weight should be a lot closer to each other. The time models can be printed in will always be limited by the flow rate, no matter the nozzle size. which means, you might have to compensate with a slower speed when using a .6 nozzle, BUT you have a wider layer width. When calculating all of this together, you will have very similar results at .4 if tuned profiles were used on the same layer height.

[@dronepilotflyby9481]

Curious as to why a nozzle would print several layers just fine and completely clog all at once even when temp was 220? I normally run 100mm through the extruder before a print and there was no jam or even a skipping of the extruder. Tried raising temp to 230 and still blocked, not in the tube, only the nozzle. Replaced and flow was fine. Very strange.

[@emagiannu]

I wonder if this argument holds if you upgrade the stock hotend. The stock Creality is known to be not great, and it might be the real cause of those artifacts. You would be able to print faster for sure, even with a cheap V6 clone.

[@McNik97]

If find your comparison lacking. You compare your EF-Profile with a Standart draft profile, so a highly optimized settings profile with a factory profile. So even by that you don't give a fair comparison. On the other hand there are much more advanced hotends (CHC hotend) , nozzles (CHT or plated copper nozzles) and cooling solutions which would improve the toolheads performance enormously. A 0.6 should be faster in a fair comparison when keeping wall thickness, top and bottom layers and infill consistent. You are correct, that with the arachne engine, 0.4 nozzles can have a wider extrusion width, but with bigger nozzles you get more consistent results and stronger parts (better layer adhesion). Also you get much higher strain on the extruder when pushing the same amount of plastic through a smaller nozzle, especially on a Bowden machine. I really enjoyed your content when I started with 3d printing, but to me it seems, that your lessons and knowledge don't move with the same pace as the hobby evolves. You never feature new parts and components and often remake your videos with nothing really new. If it isn't your goal to talk about everything new there is to hobby 3D-Printing I can respect that, since everyone has their niche, but please don't give people wrong information because you won't bother to really make fair comparisons.

[@FilamentFriday]

McNik - Thats a real generalization. I’ve covered many updates in my 400+ videos but my main focus is helping people new to 3D printing with stock machines. But I’m willing to try try your optimized 0.6 profile. Where can I get it?

[@derekc423]

Seems like a very harsh criticism all based on your opinion that 0.6 "should" be faster? Do you have any actual tests to back that up?

[@petercallison5765]

@@derekc423 It partly depends on where the bottlenecks are in the system. As printers get faster nozzles become more important. It was a bit harsh, I agree but Chep addressed the comment very well.

[@jordengx1]

Dude, after watching the video I noticed the clever thumbnail, nice one

[@FilamentFriday]

Glad you like it!

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great video - it's all about optimization and you're doing a great job dialing in the .4 nozzle. I'm sure you can optimize for the .6 but the other factor of resolution comes in. I love the results with the Arachne engine. I've never been a fan of the Cura user interface. If only it had the S3D user interface.... I could have my cake and eat it too.

[@staticman1263]

Tried to change to a 0.6 and the amount of work, reprofiling and adjusting the slicing just wasnt worth it. 2 failed prints later I went back to 0.4 and have had zero issues and can print full helms in less than 2 days.

[@baronmateo6736]

Same here, I have constant retraction issues.

[@fredbloggs5965]

Your Ender 2 Pro and print profile FFV5.1_EF(0.28) worked great on my Ender 3, cut hours off the prints I'm doing so thank you. Looks better that my normal Ender 3 profile.

[@romanmelnyk-ve2rmj979]

Thanks for all the great help on these profiles. But after trying your profiles, I have to say they are not working for me. The quality suffers greatly, I have much better success with the .6mm nozzle and profile and the quality is about 90% overall from .4 and with the time saving to boot. I find the quality suffers a lot with your profiles, so I will stick with the .6mm for the decreased print times and with better print quality.

[@Martial-Mat]

Fascinating stuff. Surely this is where a volcano nozzle would be helpful? A greater heating area would enable you to heat the filament quicker to attain that 0.6mm speed?

[@Smokinjoewhite]

Considering the fact it's about volume pushed both profiles should be near identical if sliced properly. The volume of plastic to melt is the same over the same time. His claim that he can push more filament through a smaller hole with it being less likely to skip seems to defy thermodynamics. Either way I print at 70mm/s (infill 70mm/s, inner wall 40mm/s outers 30mm/s with a mk8 at .6mm widths .2mm layers and a .4mm nozzle) with headroom, so anything here should be a cakewalk. It is even less likely to skip with the same attempted volume but with a .6mm nozzle rather than trying to push it through a .4mm.

[@Martial-Mat]

​@@Smokinjoewhite Very interesting, and honestly a bit above my printing pay grade. When you say "his claim" I assume you're referring to Chuck?

[@swagtactical9255]

3:54 yes its faster but its also less plastics, its 58 gram vs 70. do you care to go into detail on that? thats around 20% difference in filament used.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Hi. You can solve all this by printing volumetric. .4 and.6 will finish on the same time by adjusting the speed

[@Torskel]

With speed comes faster extrusion and that might start skipping when it cant melt it fast enough or something or other, i print only in PETG, i have a small PTFE-tube in my Sprite-extruder so i cant go over 230C which i need if i want to increase extrusion with PETG

[@SirSpence99]

Yep! Also, line widths should not equal nozzle diameter. .6 *technically* can be faster but you are talking 20% if you are actually maxing out flow rates.

[@FilmFactry]

Thank you! These are GREAT!!!

[@skirby121]

love the profile man... after some more printing iv had a few failures due to y-axis shift

[@anavonborowsky3811]

Your channel is awesome!

[@UnCoolDad]

Perhaps a better hot end is needed to use .06 - like a volcano.

[@Ich8in]

on the second example there is a major difference between the models, 0.4 nozzle 58g, 0.6 nozzle 70g.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

Probably because he didn't allow for the extra line width, he should have reduced the perimeter count to compensate.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

That would also have reduced print time.

[@scarsdale7186]

I tried using a 0.6 nozzle and while it was "faster" it trashed all my settings I had to redo almost everything and the quality just wasn't there and it wrecked my bridge settings most of all. I'm trying to get good enough to hang a shingle and start printing for money, if it's a basic design the larger nozzles are fine but for a general production I'll stick with 0.4. Most of the insulators on my sister's electric fence for her cow pasture I've printed with PETG and a 0.4 none of them have broken or sagged!

[@maxamillionschnell]

Are the number of perimeters staying the same between .4 and .6 nozzle profiles? you will only need 2 perimeters with .6 where you would need 3 of .4 to match the same thickness.

[@hologos_]

The extra fast profile makes wider walls so the 0.4 nozzle behaves more like 0.6 nozzle.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

@@hologos_ in that case the .6 should have been .8 or something.

[@hologos_]

@@TheRattleSnake3145 if you watch the video closely, he uses default draft profile (with default wall width) for 0.6 nozzle.

[@TheRattleSnake3145]

@@hologos_ thanks, can't see that detail on a phone.

[@arashrkarimi]

I am not switching to Cura 5 until they fix the Z seam problem. I am happy with version 4.13.1. Cura 5 is not able to put the seam on curved surfaces like cylinders in a straight line. The "Z seam relative" just does not work.

[@vramxn7793]

Is there a video on how to change and edit printer profiles, all yours are for the ender 2 pro, and I have a modified ender 3 pro, just upgraded to the biqu direct drive h2, and would love to use your profiles, especially for tpu, but they just don't work on my printer. also in general you can find the ender 3 pro for $100 at a local microcenter, so I think they are becoming the new entry-level printer that a lot of people have, and would love to modify them or use your amazing profiles, I would also love to see these settings applied to a .6 high flow/ volcano nozzle, that way you can make the fastest printing possible, a video I would love to see, fastest printer settings and mods...

[@maxwell_edison]

"Raise the temperature, or lower the speed" Volcano Hotend or bust 😎

[@TheFeday]

You completely ignore the fact that you can upgrade the hotend to something that can melt more plastic. If you add a (ultra) high flow hotend into the mix the 0.6 will be a lot faster than the 0.4.

[@FilamentFriday]

What 0.6 do you recommend and where can I get your profiles for it.

[@TheFeday]

Get something like a pheatus rapido. No changes needed in profiles,drop in replacement for a v6

[@rafaelmoran6777]

100 bucks ?

[@TheFeday]

Sadly things cost money. If you want to print faster you need to upgrade

[@rafaelmoran6777]

@@TheFeday I get ya. It's just me as a person that doesn't make money of 3d printing seems pricey

[@unterbrecherfreunde6677]

Hi Chep. Did you adjust the skin overlap percentage ? I always had to adjust it manually, since 15% is not enough.

[@alberthorta4606]

Well, it all also depends on the type of nozzle, if you're using a volcano that handles much better the temperatures maybe you can go faster with the 0.6 without affecting the results.

[@FilamentFriday]

Possibly. I was comparing stock nozzles though.

[@Jsantos443]

I switched to 0.6 nozzle im not into using fast profiles or anything and I am not losing in quality in my prints when printing at my desired layer height. Using normal settings I feel better (i guess in my own mind) that im not putting my machine under a lot of stress trying to compensate speed by tuning, versus just switching an actual part that costs nearly nothing.

[@FilamentFriday]

How do you print fine detail with it like the 0.4 EF profile does at same print time?

[@Jsantos443]

@@FilamentFriday I would love to answer this question...I really would but cant because I dont know the science. I slice up a model with a 0.4 nozzle at 0.2 layer height and says it estimates the print will complete in 5 hours and 48 minutes keeping the same layer height but switching the nozzle size seems to reduce the time for completion on the same print. now the estimated time for completion is 4 hours and 53 minutes. This is literally just me changing nozzle parameter.

[@message2prateek]

@chep please create fast profiles for Prusaslicer.

[@petercallison5765]

OK I do have a possible drawback on the 0.6 nozzle. Some of my profiles disappeared when I selected 0.6 nozzle size. This is because Cura 5.1 does not sort adaptive layers with a 0.6 nozzle. This was a setting suggested to me for printing silk filament so I am not an expert in its effects.

[@TommiHonkonen]

If you get same volumetric output with any size nozzle with a given hotend and extruder the nozzle size makes little difference. Bigger nozzle needs less speed/sec. It's all about volumetric flow.

[@SirSpence99]

Line width should *not* equal nozzle diameter. Nozzles can print ~3x their diameter for line widths. The lower limit *is* set by the nozzle diameter though. Nozzle diameters should be one of the last things you look at to get better flow-rate.

[@cheetahkid]

I already giving up 0.4mm nozzle and went for 0.5mm hardened, why? I been using 0.4mm for a long time, I mostly use woodfill, and yes I get nozzle blocked a lot of time and worn out. Anyway short story, it is a lot better. I use ironing for better result too. If 0.4mm win win but I am happy with 0.5mm.

[@KarlRosner]

Oh Jesus it IS Friday, man time flies.

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

The chep cube with the .4 nozzle used 1g and 290mm less plastic then a .6.

[@WILLYDOGUSA]

Am I missing something or in this video is not taken into account the fact that if you print 3 walls with the 0.4 noozle at 0.4 line width, with the 0.6 noozle you get the same 1.2mm wall thickness with only 2 walls at 0.6 line width. That would make a bigger impact on speed... If you see the stemfie block printed with the 0.4 noozle is 58gr and the one with the 0.6 noozle is 70gr, 20% more material. Basically you could have a much stronger print in the same time, or same strength strenght but much faster.

[@Mr_Pewpy_But-Whole]

maybe this would only work on a high flow rate nozzle like cht, volcano or mosquito types

[@mertyilmaz1242]

i Get 24 minutes with a 0.6mm bondtech CHT nozzle on the hyperfast profile (CHEP got 31 minutes with an .4 nozzle). still need to optimize for my setup but it is already faster than .4

[@dcs3473]

I can open the project and create a new printer with your profile. The issue I have is I dont have an ender 2 printer so when I try and export the profile and then import it into my Prusa Printer it says its not compatible. Something about Standard does not exist. Any idea how to get your settings over?

[@MrMdutro]

I downloaded your .20 profile and I'm getting a weird problem with the first layer. It will print the outline of the base just fine, but when it goes to lay down the layer it will print a few rows just fine, then there is a slight separation between the rows and it will repeat that pattern of several rows fused together appropriately followed by a gap. Then I can literally watch these fused rows start to warp and peel from there edges. The odd thing is it will only do it toward the middle of the extrusion. Where the rows reach the outer edge, they're fine. I wish I was able to attach a picture of this to show you. I have an ender 3 and an Ender 3 V2 Neo, both with a sprite direct drive extruder, and it happens with both of them.

[@YarNotsew]

Is there a better place for discussing these profiles than here on KZbin? I'm having trouble with the FFV5.1_EF(0.12) profile in Cura 5.1 with a .4mm nozzle and not sure where to seek help. (highlighted and grayed-out settings and missing top layers)

[@devenjewell706]

Post to reddit

[@scottwarrick]

Are there Prusaslicer or Superslicer versions of these super fast profiles?

[@JohnSmith-xl9bo]

Hi Chuck. Can you do a video on installing a Z-Limit switch on the Endeer 3 S-1 Plis or Pro?

[@akaiphone]

On the k1, there is ringing and banding. Can you do a video on how to get rid of it if possible? It almost looks like the same design as the gears on the belt or belt tension gears

[@mattk468]

for some reason no matter what filament I use my bottom layer is always quite over extracted. I have adjusted the flow for the bottom layer all the way to 68% and its a lot better but its still over extracted. The initial layer is perfect and flow for the walls was calibrated to 106.47%. I use an Ender 3 pro

[@morbus5726]

0.5 is good, imo it's the best in between choice.

[@BenderTheOffender]

Wouldn't a copper heat block and a stronger heater cartridge help in melting more filament?

[@cache4pat]

Awesome catch up on Cura goodness. I have been stuck back at 4.5. I have a project that needs to approach 200 Microns; and haven't tried swapping a 0.2mm nozzle into my Ender5. Have you experimented with smaller Nozzles in the new Cura V5.1.

[@schoolofducttape]

Ive been loving the profiles! what about doing an upgrade to a Bondtech CHT MK8 Nozzle - 0.4mm and increasing the speed with that nozzle?

[@stephanw196]

love to see that too!

[@cefoltran]

Valeu!

[@twiggss4344]

3:54 the .6 also used 12 more grams of filament as well?

[@carstenschmied8455]

There are now high-flow 0.4mm nozzles that get as much filament through as 0.8mm standard nozzles. Those special nozzles cut up the filament in 3 chambers. On a different note: can one print with let's say 0.16 layer height for the most outer wall and the rest (inner walls and infill) with 0.32 layer height? This would be a neet hack. Everything visible with 0.16 and the rest quickly with a high flow 0.4mm nozzle. What do you think?

[@ChefofWar33]

It wouldn't work. Eventually it would add up to where the outer walls are so much lower than the inner walls that the print head would hit them.

[@krauselee877]

@@ChefofWar33 theoretically if the printer did the walls last, the gcode could be set to print both layers before moving on to the infill again. its not impossible, youll just have to figure out a gcode formula to make it work.

[@DavidBaumgarner]

In practice it seems to me that you would need to print 2x outside walls first to get up to the same height to match the rest which is printed at 0.32. But printing outside first is problematic on overhangs so maybe need a minimum of two walls at 0.16. Print the inner one then outer to hang on to that... Then repeat the second level. And THEN move on to all the 0.32 inner walls and fill.

[@GreenAppelPie]

.6 diameter nozzle has more than twice the area of a .4

[@markferrick10]

2.25 time larger.

[@pedrohenriqueboscofi]

thanks, I was about to leave a comment, that 50% is bothering me so much

[@mamadoubapassioninformatique]

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.