Are 2018 KTM 350ʻs Built Cheaply? | 26hrs & BROKEN

[@MrGhostVortex]

Alright...I'm an HVAC tech, not a bike mechanic :) So take my input with a LOT of salt... Never owned a bike, but I do all my auto work. Troubleshooting is also a huge part of my job, so I hope this helps. Sounds like you had one problem, that cause a lot of little issues down stream...and you're battling a lot of little issues trying to make sense of them all. 1) Big issue: You had a short. Lord knows why. Shorts happen, and cant be explained, dont try to understand why or how they work/happen. [1.a]: Fix your grounding issues and your lighting situation. Make sure you have good grounds, and check as many plugs as you can. 2) Failed sensor/computer instrument. Looks/sounds like the short took out the battery, as well as a sensory input (or a failed sensor caused the short, leading to the issues). Either way, looks like crap battery fro the incident. Get a good power supply..then proceed. [2.a] Seeing the bike run X amount of seconds, then shutting off consistently, it doesn't sound mechanical (like no fuel, or starving). It sounds like a failed sensor or something...basically the computer is shutting the bike down due to a lack of input from a sensor, or the computer has some tripped codes (possible form the short). Clear codes (if bikes even have codes lol) and check critical sensors (sensory input that can cause engine shutdown...this could be related to/tied to fuel as well..i.e, shutting fuel down or killing power all together). Troubleshooting is fun :) Dont give up, and dont burn out. Take breaks if needed...and avoid forums/internet 'help'. No one knows your gear like you do, and no one can touch it like you can. Lastly..! Avoid buying parts as a troubleshooting technique!!! Figure out the issue, THEN proceed...buying parts/replacing parts in "hope this works" mentality is never cheap and solve anything. Good luck, and keeps us posted please :) And Thanks AB++ for sharing. Enjoying the uploads

[@offone9469]

great advice!!!!!

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

Oh shit! Clearing the codes!!! That’s gotta be it Jordan! Mine did similar once upon a time

[@offone9469]

@@AccidentalBroadcast gotta figger out how to check/clear codes

[@glendecuir6317]

Well said Aaron, that is a well-spoken explanation of troubleshooting that I've heard anyone have to say in a long time, take all that to heart gentleman and you will find the problem great response Aaron have a great day

[@offone9469]

@@AccidentalBroadcast went out and checked code... was throwing a fuel pump relay code...becuase the fuel tank is off hahahahahahahahahaha

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

What do you think could be goin on with the Jordan Cody Gaiʻs bike? PS: hit that like button so I know you want more viddy yoʻs.. *vanishes back into the dark, wet, jungle...

[@BLazeBrosCompany]

Have you checked the rectifier

[@riderdiver1]

I read about a similar issue on Tumpertalk, fella had a cracked spark plug boot. Maybe tip over sensor??

[@rcbasher13]

I would check the tip over senser and make sure it is working right. The tip over senser when activated will let the bike run for a little bit then kill the engine. I would also check the ground under the gas tank.

[@CaptainCandycorn]

I so glad you are uploading again. You don't even know how much your videos mean to some of us, it's like seeing family after a long time apart.

[@MrDuhfactor]

I've been thinking about this buddy, and it's always tough when your not there, but you gave a good description of what happened....so here's what I'm thinking.... To me, it sounds electrical, but heaven forbid I've been fooled so many times before: 1) Start from the spark plug and work back along the electrical path - Somehow, we've got to figure out if that plug stops firing when the bike dies - There are testers that plug inline with the spark plug wire, too bad we don't know someone we could borrow one from, or rig some other way to determine if the fire is there when the bike starts, but then goes away when it dies it obviously will go away as soon as the motor stops turning over, so it would be best to rev the bike some when it first starts up so when it does die, you'll have time to tell if the spark goes away or not. 2) If the spark does not go away as the bike dies (at least until the motor stops) then we need to look at fuel, which you have replaced everything of consequence except perhaps the mass air flow sensor (which rarely goes bad), the TPS (goes bad all the time in snow machines, less on bikes), and if your bike has one, crank position sensor, all of which can be tested with a test light.(Back to electrical) The TPS is more of a pain, and you need some paper clips to slide into the individual connector leads in order to test your voltage at idle, and full throttle, and see if the voltage varies wildly, or is not consistent. If the TPS voltage doesn't stay consistent with your changing in throttle position, then it's bad, which can lead to abnormal lean/rich fueling, and altered ignition advance, which jacks up everything. 3) If there is no spark as the bike dies, then we need to check the coil, including it's ground to the frame. This may sound odd, but before I check the coil, I'll check the signal to coil first. Some bikes have one signal wire going to the coil, and it grounds through the coil being bolted to the frame, others have two wires, one signal, one ground. So, you have to determine which wire is the signal wire from the ECU, and see if you have a low voltage pulsing signal coming from the ECU, which is present while the bike is running, and should keep pulsing as the motor dies until it stops. If the pulsing signal stops immediately when the motor stops firing, then it's not likely a coil or coil wire problem, and perhaps the ECU or further back still. If you are still getting a pulsed signal going to the coil from the ECU, but no spark after the coil, then it's either a coil, or bad coil wire (yes, the coil, and coil wire can fail, although it is more rare). Be sure there is not paint on the frame where the coil bolts to it, a poor ground between the coil and frame can fry a coil easily, and is a common problem on aftermarket powder coated frames, which require careful grinding to clean off the contact points. 4) If you didn't get any pulsed signal from the ECU to the coil, or it's erratic, and all of your wire loom is intact with no breaks, shorts, or connection issues, then we have to suspect a possible ECU failure. This is assuming that you have checked the MAF (usually connected to the airbox), crank position sensor (if you have one), and TPS test normal. Most of the time, before I buy one of these, I will try to find someone with the same bike who will lend theirs to me, and I quickly swapp the ECU's, and re-test. 5) Double check other cut offs, like a kickstand switch if it has one, and clutch engagement switch. Modern KTM's actually have very sensitive electrical balance, and nowadays they don't seem to tolerate bypassing like the old bikes did. 6) It is possible that the tip over sensor went funky, perhaps triggering while you were wheelie-ing, and is malfunctioning now intermittently (I'm not sure how to test, and have never seen one fail, but the manual will have a way to test it I would think) This is a far reach, and in my opinion, highly unlikely. 7) Double check and clean every ground you can find, and follow every wire you can to make sure it's not grounding out, or intermittently loose. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to lightly "pull" on every wire as it goes into a connector. It should not pull out, but if it does, that could be your culprit. 8) Perhaps do all these things, and get back to s with an update? Worse case scenario.... you can light a match and RUN! (J.K.---- These can be so frustrating)

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

I’m gonna print this out and send it on a delivery pidgin to the gai!

[@offone9469]

Gonna re-purchase a test light asap! I really do think the first fuse I blew didn't blow all the way, or soldered itself back together enough to let voltage keep running through to the ecu and fried a circuit off of that. I am going to see if I can find another ecu to borrow for a test!

[@MrDuhfactor]

@@offone9469 the other thing, its possible the pickup down by the stator can go bad, and wont send a signal to the ecu.... so it doesnt know to send a signal to the coil. There is an ohm reading proceedure in your manual to check its resistance. I'm guessing you have a voltmeter/ohm meter?

[@offone9469]

@@MrDuhfactor Yessir I have a multi-meter. Kalani discovered a short from what looks to be a smog system sensor to my drive chain...I believe that was what blew my number 1 fuse twice. I think the first time it blew it didn't blow completely or soldered itself back together via arch welding and allowed too much voltage to get into the ecu if that makes sense. I reached out on FB... hoping someone on maui will let me swap ecus for a minute to test my theory.

[@MrXboxgamer13]

I've been watching your videos since I was 17 (currently 22) and have loved every single one of them. Glad your back posting keep up the amazing content

[@jaredanthony8070]

Newer cars have open and closed loop systems to run up to a certain temperature running a base map to make sure all systems and sensors are functioning. They can start run and idle before throwing a code or even shutting back off. This bike probably has a miniature version of that in it with efi and all. It could be as simple as a crank position sensor that starts on closed loop and then loses sync into open loop and shuts off to not damage the engine. It could be a coolant temp sensor that is broken and at temp it shuts off quicker and quicker because the closed loop needs to run for less time. I would start by pulling one plug off a sensor at a time. Check the battery terminals with no battery to make sure they dont have resistance between the two because that should mean theres a short. Then go through sensors to see if they read the correct ohm. Then check the harness to see if those have resistance. There a bike scan tool out there? That should make it quick 😂

[@dedelabinouze5110]

Jesus finally a new video from you Kalani !! We need some real content back out here on YT times are tough dude !

[@Dommy_Doo]

when i got the notification of a new AB video i thought i was dreaming. lovin it!

[@Jamesfurtado128]

Oh kalani i love and miss you. You always make such good viddys yo.

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

James Furtado good news. I’m getting excited about making moar :)

[@chevysmith273]

the short circuits in your electrical system may have done damage to either the regulator or rectifier causing there to not be enough voltage after the bike starts and therefor the ecm loses enough voltage to not be able to run everything needed! just remember to always replace regulator and rectifier at the same time or could end up doing them again!

[@JoeJoeMoto]

I love how dramatic Mr Cody Guy is!!! As for the bike.... I was thinking fuel filter, but you said you replaced it.

[@michaelfennell3]

thank you for the video mr. A.B . keep up the great work , your hero michael from the tribe

[@m-turner9735]

Just one more thing to try. Had this happen before, even though it looked fine the SPARK PLUG WAS BAD. a friend talked with a factory bike mechanic who suggested that I change out the spark plug. I thought to myself, no way it's the plug, I inspected it closely and seen no visible crack's, but after going through the carburetor, checking electrical connections, changing fuel, I changed the plug and it fired right up and ran perfectly.

[@waltbirchmeier2947]

And that's why I like to stick to bikes with carburetors..they are so much easier to work on and diagnose than injected stuff with all the sensors and computer and stuff..efi is nice for the throttle response and they start a lot easier in cold seats than a carbed bike..

[@biketothetop]

There seems to be a lot of speculation around this thing of fuel starvation issue. I wonder if you were to get some ether, also known as starting fluid used in cold temperature places like the Midwest us, and spray it while the bike is running into the air filter area, if the bike still dies, this could rule out fuel starvation.

[@bobbyhampton1012]

Kill switch? Kickstand switch? Water in the gas? Trail troll voodoo juice!

[@offone9469]

trail troll voodoo juice is my guess!

[@bobbyhampton1012]

My yz did something pretty similar, it was the kill switch. Try a new spark plug?

[@benmurphy1123]

The motor needs to be replaced with a Yamaha motor

[@offone9469]

if they made a real off road capable dual sport bike I would switch in a heart beat! and that's not a diss on the wr250r.... I choose not to torture myself with the weight of that bike in the deep jungle riding I tend to do here.

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

ben murphy god, I WISH they made a 350R, I’d get on it in a nanosecond.

[@bobbyhampton1012]

I really want to try the yz250X.

[@offone9469]

@@bobbyhampton1012 wish that thing had a happy start Button!

[@bobbyhampton1012]

No magic button! They make supposedly the "best" trail bike (250X) but its kick start only. They make the "best" dual sport (WR250R) but only a 250 version. Come on Yamaha!

[@2wheelLove]

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Check the wires in front behind the headlight mask. Check near all the connectors. PHYSICALLY PULL ON ALL THE WIRES GOING INTO EACH OF THE CONNECTORS. A lot of times those wires fail. Ive had this happen with a few bikes. In particular, i had a te310 that had this happen twice and exhibit the exact same behaviors as yours. Both times near or inside the connector so you wont be able to tell unless you physically pull on the wires and even disconnect them and make sure the contacts are still there and good and that the wire has not separated from the contact inside the connector.

[@jasonwood2079]

Finally.. Your back!!!

[@LockStockNBarrel]

It's obviously the tip over sensor. Probably got cooked when you were blowing fuses. It's the only answer for the symptoms you have. If it's not that, and the idle time varies relatively widely, likely there is a short somewhere thats mechanically activated by the vibration of the bike, IE broken wire or loose connection.

[@gagecook6918]

Sounds to me like the coil is ok when it's cool until it warms up then it doesnt have the power to create proper spark till it cools down again. It would make sense considering the run time shortens after starting it each time. It happens with snowmobiles alot.

[@HOOD2358]

Sorry to hear the bad news. All I ever hear about is KTM breaking down. Hope you get it fixed. I don't know shit about bikes yet. Why I got the WR so I don't have to wrench more than ride. Good luck my bruddahs! Aloha

[@koas8478]

Background music is little creepy Kalani...but da gai...he knows his stuff!👍

[@huskychronicles3249]

Maybe an issue with the ECU, which might need a magical button to be pressed by the KTM for a reflash. I once connected a power commander inappropriately on a husky and after a little smoke action, it was basically idling at 4k rpm instead of 1500. Took it to a husky mechanic and they connected it to a computer for a ECU reflash and everything was fine afterwards. You can probably try resetting the ECU yourself (there was a certain procedure on my husky regarding that, but it did not change anything, needed to get hooked up at the shop and reflashed). Your head or tail light might have corrupted or brought up an error on the ECU somehow. Good luck and get a less sophisticated bike for less of a headache :)

[@Coryb156]

Could it be a bad kill switch that loosens when you start it and shakes a wire that could be why it stutters before it dies

[@compactrhone-2]

if youre able maybe try a test light inline with the fuel pump to make sure that the ECM isn't killing it for no reason

[@bsd103]

Agree seems like ECU is cutting something - this screams software safety cutoff

[@EarlBrapp]

I miss you man!!!

[@95TurboSol]

A wise man once said, fixing your grounds covers a multitude of sins, amen

[@jylp4u]

Shorter and shorter run times as the engine warms up... Sounds like a compression issue. Valve adjustment or loose sparkplug? I wonder if those had VVT with automatic compression release... I know this is like 5 years old, but I was in Cali when this was uploaded and I had pretty much no internet since I was in a forest on a mountain. Long story on how I ended up there... I still have a lot of work to do, but I figured I would check on you to see how you're doing and start maybe planning a trip to Maui.

[@turdledive927]

Check the sensors 1 by 1. After you determine whether or not it is a fuel shut of or a spark shut off. Check if the plug is wet when it dies. It could be a short, I have never used a short detector. But if they work maybe try one.

[@biketothetop]

Jordan, is it possible the inline fuel filter is clogged and in between starting intervals the fuel has a chance to seep through just enough to keep it running briefly? I know my KTM 500 has an inline fuel filter buy the quick disconnect. It's a conical filter that's only about half an inch long or so. It's a tight little mesh. You could try taking it out momentarily to see if that fixes the problem.

[@offone9469]

I swapped the fuel filter while I was in the tank... :(

[@brokenlegz]

Maybe look at wiring diagram, maybe something like the headlight needs to be working to have load for something. Keep us updated.

[@M3D1C2121]

And thus he lives!

[@matthewchurch1320]

this is just how ever thing is made now cheap some times you just get a real cheap stuff it's not like how things were made 30+ years go

[@Mauipat]

You may have more than one issue going at a time. Check and make sure your gas tank vent is open,and check all you air ways. make sure airs getting to the engine. Could be the a sensor fail. good luck.

[@daves3016]

Fuel pump prime works but does it run when the engine is running. Does it have a fuel pump relay that can be bypassed?

[@bsd103]

You must be new to KTMs.. The engineering is the reason I'll never own one. Really sorry you're having these electrical issues.

[@coarsegoldkid]

The two '18 350 excf models that I service are great bikes. Sorry you're having so much frustration over this gremlin I'm sure you have tried everything at least once. Sounds to me like the tilt sensor. In the times I've dropped my bike it runs a bit, (as if it's on a timer) on it's side then dies. Just like yours is, standing up. Do you know someone with a KTM that you could swap out the tilt sensor? I don't have a schematic handy so I'm not sure how that sensor functions, normally open or normally closed. Any you might also just remove it if it's normally open. If it's normally closed then jumper across it. ECUs have been known to take a crap too. If you know someone that changed out theirs for a Vortex maybe they'll allow you to use their OEM ECU. Make sure the quick disconnect fuel line is secured. I've seen these run for a few seconds when not properly connected.

[@offone9469]

I have a buddy bringing his 350 by on thursday to check both tip and ecu

[@Stuntman_Myk]

Faulty tip sensor? You could try bypassing it to see. Since the original issue happened during a wheelie I feel like it could be either loose or shorting over and over which would blow a fuse. Could also try tipping the bike up or laying it down and then picking it back up and see if it runs after.

[@offone9469]

checked tip sensor... forgot to mention that. tip sensor actually kills power to whole bike when circuit is opened.

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

Dass a good idea. Think we tried it and Jordan left that out of his Shakespearean monologue.

[@PlaguedYeti]

I would test the fuel injector and see if it keeps clicking when it stumbles if possible put a long screwdriver on the base of the injector and put your ear on the end of the screwdriver and listen for the clicks it couldn't hurt to check it

[@tommy22643]

Please keep posting videos :)

[@noostNL]

Make another video with the progress please! I want to know how this story goes on!

[@alexdorseyistheman]

running out of fuel? bad pump?

[@LongboardingUno]

Does it have a tip over sensor ?

[@gncc1race]

Tell Jordan that the fuel injected EXC's are weird about about battery lead connections and system ground connections. I had an issue on my '14 that drove me nuts and turned out my battery leads were not tight. Lights were bright, starter spun, never would have known. But it has run amazingly ever since. The subframe on the late models (like your '18) doesn't ground like it should. Dave Simon says to run a ground wire from the battery ground to the main frame. Both of these are cheap to try. You never know. That might be the fix. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGaVfYqXabCJl5o

[@offone9469]

yes, re-grounded, cleaned, scraped, grounded again. still shuts off :(

[@rlovell383]

Clogged fuel filter?

[@williamzoom]

It's a KTM, that's the problem :)

[@minitwatch]

My bet is the spark plug :p I had the same problem with my CRF. As the plug heated up, it opened up a crack in the insulator which then grounded my bike out. What a frustrating thing to diagnose!

[@Dissentient01]

@@minitwatch Agreed. Same thing happened on my LTR450. Most def the plug.

[@TheREGGIE1324]

Ground the bike to the main frame and your issue should be fixed. If not kill switch / stand switch / tilt sensor

[@Froggy_Devil]

bypass Ignition switch could be bad or dirty contacts in the switch,.

[@jakezark]

have you tried cleaning the carb

[@shoominati23]

KTMs always cost more to work on.I know their shocks cost more to rebuild because they use proprietary parts and valving

[@ArcticPride1]

Tipover sensor?

[@DmenDuroRider]

My brothers 2018 XCW 250 had a bad killswitch from factory. Disconnect the killswitch and see if it runs. My 17 excf 450 has given me 185hrs of flawlessness. Well I had one issue when I replaced the large taillight with the smaller enduro taillight the bolt that holds the ground needed a shorter bolt so it could have a solid ground. Easy fix. Just luck of the draw I guess. I also did all the performance mods for the 450 excf from ktmandhusky.com and have a vortex ecu. Usually it's 100% something simple and most likely a cheap fix (especially a new bike). And ktm has been known to fix a bike out of warranty (depending on the dealer). Would be worth it to talk to your dealer. But my main guess is the killswitch or the keyed killswitch developed a short. 2nd guess the ecu pooped out. Not really a ktm quality issue. I have seen this happen on new Japanese bikes as well. I do know for a fact nothing is mechanically wrong. It's definitely some kind of electical gremlin. Hopefully it's something simple like the killswitch or the tipover sensor. Not the ecu. Don't mess with the TPS doesn't make much of a difference with the 2017+ bikes. Older models yes the TPS made a huge difference and could cause something like this.

[@ARouser15]

I was thinking maybe fuel pump is having an issue. Then I read the thought stream above me...

[@LongboardingUno]

Check voltage coming from the stator check fuel pressure might just be priming if all fails check the ecu if that doesn’t work burn it and get a Yamaha

[@brianbaines4905]

I know the problem but it be fixed now. Sorry I could help u guys

[@MrJamesstennett]

Blowing fuses, feels like the ground to the battery is at fault. Seems like you are on the right path. But check path to the battery.

[@nopzzz]

plug or reg/rec

[@ryker8902]

yo get that fucking honda grom and do vlogs on it!! glad to see you back.

[@marktegeder2455]

So sorry, what a freakin frustrating thing! I'm sure you've Googled already. I own a carbed KTM 2 stroke, so I have no experience with the injected 4 strokes. Stator or cdi/edu? Either way I'm sorry I have nothing more to offer...wish so much that I could help...

[@dahveed284]

KTM = Keep Two Motorcycles. or Keeps Taking Money. Sounds like there is an issue with the ECU. Now you know why they only come with a short warranty. Sorry, wishing you good luck from the mainland. BTW, who would steal a Grom?

[@ashwalk85]

I finally understand... KTM is expensive because its target buyer will just replace the bike when it has a serious issue (probably with another KTM). The people who go out of their budget to get one get royally screwed, an then one of two things happen: in 99% of the cases they keep to themselves, not wanting to admit they overpaid for crap; and the final 1% are da Jordan Cody Gais.

[@ScottMA64]

Any updates?

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

UncleMel still down, not yet :)

[@ScottMA64]

@@AccidentalBroadcast Thanks for the update!

[@m-turner9735]

Experience this myself, Have you changed the spark plug? plug looks new, sparks when checked (out of the head) runs for 10-20 seconds then dies? Changed plug, problem fixed!

[@TheSamuraiRonin]

The issue is: it's a ktm. Get a Kawi or Yami. Done.

[@Kolehmanni]

So much 21:9 cinema

[@OtisENGINEuity]

I miss Jordan's channel, he was just as fucked up as I am... more so in fact. He definitely isn't modern youtube friendly though. It kind of sounds like there must be a short somewhere (probably in the middle of the loom where it's the hardest to reach) that's fouling the ECU. Even when it was running there was a miss. Sorry to say but I think it's time to bail and find a different manufacturer.

[@kencolpaert3427]

The problem is it's a KTM and not a Yamaha lol, JK. Not sure what it could be but hopefully you guys get her fixed up soon.

[@indypup4690]

KTM's are the bomb! I have a 2014 ISDE 350 XCF-W that is bulletproof. Cost savings/cutbacks over the years?

[@Buzzgrower]

Nice

[@natenaterson8889]

Don’t know much about KTM but my WR had 23,000 miles when I sold it, never had an issue one just saying lol

[@urmomsayswhat3675]

Theres a main ground under the tank that can cause sporadic issues. worth checking. Also maybe look into what it uses for a voltage regulator. Also based on some quick googling try checking the tipover sensor thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1097327-ktm-250xcf-starts-but-then-dies-after-7-seconds/

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

urmomsayswhat holy shite, there’s another ground?!

[@urmomsayswhat3675]

AccidentalBroadcast as we say in Canada, “YAH BUD” The more reading I do though, the more I’d be looking at the tip over sensor

[@glumGlumm]

Athena alive again? Is that why you back lol

[@thomasgorre9285]

It doesn't want to run because it's a KTM.

[@johnroe3915]

KTM = Kaput is The Motor.

[@MotoFlashMotoVlogs]

It’s orange that’s your problem KTM stands for keep taking money. All jokes aside it sucks having a downed bike

[@Trusty_Steed]

Should have got a 2 smoke

[@ScottMA64]

Try checking/changing your spark plug.

[@offone9469]

checked plug, looked good, no cracks, good golden color, good spark.

[@ScottMA64]

@@offone9469 Seems like the simple things are eliminated. If something bad enough happened to blow fuses I wonder if the ecu got damaged? :(

[@offone9469]

@@ScottMA64 exactly! this is why I'm thinking I need ktm to diagnose...it's 125 bucks to diagnose. probably save me 5 more hours of head banging in the garage.

[@SaltyReels]

Just wash it and it will run fine

[@Carlosmototech]

Check your fuel pump relay

[@Carlosmototech]

Or the ecu could have been put back in to dealer mode

[@brucenesbitt1869]

Check all fluid levels

[@R2robot]

I'd never buy a KTM. Problem solved! :D

[@dommy114]

10:07

[@103m95g]

KTM are too many expensives. my buddys KTM has electrical Gremlins as well, even after replacing the entire wiring harness.

[@tracksidesolution]

Junk. Stay with the Big 4!

[@offone9469]

Haaaaaaaalp

[@AccidentalBroadcast]

PS: we juuuust shot this viddy so Jordan still has all the same problems + he can’t ride due to knee surgery yesterday. Lez get this biatch fixed!

[@rebelyell22]

check the capacitor under the gas tank? What year is your bike?

[@offone9469]

@@rebelyell22 2018

[@rebelyell22]

@@offone9469 Derp.... Apparently I can't read a title. I'll do some research

[@rebelyell22]

@@offone9469 What's your FI light doing?

[@MotoCampAdv]

I see the problem it's a KTM

[@burtonrider316]

Kind of sounds like a misfire every once in a while.