Are Kevlar Belts Better?

[@michaelbeckman1794]

Just put new belts on my garage sale, project 8/25 snowblower. Used the Gates Tru Flex for both belts. I found that the drive belt was not running true on the idler pulley. Removed the pulley and twisted the bracket a couple of degrees and now is running true. If you can't find belts in 1/2 sizes the auto parts store would be your go-to option.

[@johnnyjimj]

Very true about pulleys not running true. I always chack operation on my snowbklower with the cover off. I've had to 'bend" the idler wheel and rotate the auger pulley to compensate for axle wobble. Pulleys that don't run true or wobble can chew up belts fast.

[@scottp2462]

Great tutorial. I learned the hard way about belts and their composition. Used a “raw” rubber standard polyester cord belt as the drive belt on a Cub Cadet with a hydrostatic transaxle. Replaced all pulleys with metal full bearing replacements. Found the cheap non-covered or raw belt would grab and make a banging noise when brake was released and it left rubber residue on the V-pulleys. Replaced with a covered aramid fiber belt and all was good again. The covering or sheath on the outside of the belt allows for a bit of slip as the idler engages the belt and aramid belts absorb the shock or impact from engagement much better. As you stated the aramid covered belt was only $10 more than the raw belt.

[@johnnyjimj]

I hoped a kevlar belt would have solved my issues especially considering it was twice the price of a regular belt, but it shredded after a particularly heavy, wet snowfall so as a last resort, I have switched to a "deep wedge" cogged belt. I must admit it was harder to install because it's is much deeper than a standard belt, but so far it works as it should, not grabbing when disengaged when the machine is cold, but it does grabs when disengaged when the machine is warm. Nevertheless, it doesn't smell burnt rubber and doesn't seem leave any rubber on the pulley, like I've experienced with a regular belt once before. I guess the cogs and the deep contact area makes a big difference and the fact that it grabs under a no load condition must help it prevent wear - I always maintain the auger engaged until there is no snow coming out of the chute, and always make sure the auger is free and not stuck in ice before starting the machine. I would rather have a belt grab a bit too much (be a bit too short) than too little (be slightly too long) and get destroyed from slippage under load. That being said, I have found it difficult to get belts with the exact size as circumference can vary by up to 1/2" between manufacturers - I sure wish idler wheels could be adjusted to take thes slight variations into consideration!

[@everybodysjonathan]

Sunday night and I’m watching small engine belts.. 🤣 great informative video. I do appreciate the information as well as your expertise.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@l337pwnage]

On belts snapping, on a car I had the fan sucked up a plastic bag into the radiator once and snapped the belt. Almost wrecked the motor because it hardly made a sound, just a "tink", and I didn't notice a problem until the engine started overheating. I got really lucky that was an iron engine and not an aluminum one.

[@kjell-richardlvdal373]

This is one of the better video on KZbin regarding belt

[@boomerguy9935]

Great info! My Craftsman 42" riding mower's belts lasted 20 years. The replacement belts, just a couple years. I needed this info before I replaced them. I will do better now.

[@johnnyjimj]

Great video - It'sthe second time I watch it and if I could, I'd give it a second thumbs up 😆. We have really tough snowblowing conditions where I live - I have to go though 2-3 feet of compacted, hardened snowbanks after every snowfall and my snowblower often breaks shear pins and blows belts, so I've been looking for solutions for quite a while. I installed my first Kevlar belt this year and I was disappointed that it shredded only after a few heavy snow blowing sessions and didn't last much better than my regular belts under the same conditions. So this time, out of desparation and against what I have been advised, I've installed a deep wedge cogged belt and it seems to be holding so far. The only issue I have is that it grabs in disengaged mode when the machine is warm (it slips as it should when the machine is cold). Despite the fact it grabs when warm, it doesn't smell burnt rubber at all and so far, I haven't seen any signs that it's caused excessive wear as when I had strandard belts not disengaging fully, causing flat spots. Are raw-edge, deep wedge cogged belts just more robust, like some manufacturers claim, and have you had success with them under idler wheel use? And can these belts be procured in Kevlar instead of Polyester? And how much stronger are kevlar fibers in belts compared to polyester? Thanks in advance for any insights you may be able to offer.

[@markstorjo3432]

Excellent job, very informative, learned a bunch of stuff about v belts. Thanks

[@waynestefinashen239]

Very good explanation of the difference in belts. Yes the True Blue or other Kevlar Replacement belts last much longer since they stretch much less than other belts as you well explained. I believe it would be extremely difficult to get a warranty during a 2 year period mainly because failures will be from overloading as you also mentioned. Keep up the good work Jake!

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@donvoll2580]

Good day Yes he does a good in depth video.

[@ChubbyButcher]

Very well explained. Thank you for opening my eyes on belts and how they work.. good job

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@montyparris1779]

What size of belt for the drive and auger belts on a yard work 10.5hp engine with 30inches auger

[@EliminatorPerformance]

@@montyparris1779 google your model number and type parts diagram after that, you need a parts list, you can't just guess, it'll be a very specific size.

[@garny3766]

Good points. I would like to add that cut edge belts are much truer and run smoother than the wrapped belts. This is how “matched” belts are made which is important like on the mtds twin auger drive belts. That’s why you’ll pay more for the oem 2 pack. They’re clogged and cut edge. Even more important in heavy industrial machines such as mills, lathes, fans, compressors. Smooth cut edge match belts eliminate any “thumping” or vibrations that wrapped edges cause from their edges not being a true consistent width causing the belt to raise and lower as it passes over the pulleys.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Yea I was going to get into the heavy duty fabric wrap but I could go on all day lol but yes the fabric wrap is great for CVT mowers where the pulley diameters are always changing so it allows that slip when engaging. Raw edge definitely have more bite, but again that's more friction, more heat. I've never had any issues with a wrapped true blue when replacing a snowblower auger belt, no slippage and they last a lot longer. Thanks for watching Garny!

[@garny3766]

@@EliminatorPerformance actually no good snowmobile, utv/Atv belt is wrapped. They are cut edge for smoothness and power transfer. They need to be because the design operation over amplifies due to the way the pulley “sandwiches” the belt. You wouldn’t be able to comfortably ride a vehicle with a cvt and a wrapped edge. Good example try using a snowmobile belt that has a little burnt spot...it will hammer and thump horribly. Cut edge are the highest quality belts. They may not be the strongest but definitely most accurate and smoothest running.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Maybe on a high performance application yes, but on a riding lawnmower with a CVT, they have a stack pulley and it requires the belt to have some slip, but only when engaging the drive. A cut edge belt would let to grabbing and the mower front end would jump. The heavy fabric cover on the stens true blue belts prevents this.

[@garny3766]

@@EliminatorPerformance correct on the new age cub/mtd/ craftsman crap. Those pulleys are so crude it ain’t gonna matter if you put a cut edge on them. Now if you look back on the JD variators those were the same idea just they were built true. The oem belts are cut and work a lot better than a AM wrapped belt. Again the difference between quality and quantity. That is the story of today’s world.

[@johnnyjimj]

@@garny3766 I've been following this exchange with great interest. After having a standard wrapped kevlar belt shred after only a few heavy snowstorms on my snowblower, I've installed a deep wedge cogged belt out of desperation and despite being advised against it by other people, so your take on it is refreshing. I guess they didn't understand I would be using a "deep wedge" cogged belt, not a standard depth one (my snowblower pulley is deep enough to accomodate such a belt). I sure hope the presumed greater and smoother power transission from the deeper contact area and greater flexibility of the belt will make a great improvement in my case use - snowblower augers are started under no load conditions so they shouldn't really require to significantly slip when engaging, unless of course you make the mistake of leaving snow in the auger housing and it freezes solid, but that would damage any belt.

[@watermanone7567]

Very nice explanation, I always recommend to my customers to get the Kevlar belts when possible, but lots of people want to go cheap. Thanks for the great video's.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@alexdurand7841]

This video needs a counter for the word (BELT) 😆 . Very helpful. Thanks for the video.

[@SSK-27]

Great explanation. I never knew the aramid only come in whole sizes. I just put one of these (aramid) belts on a variable speed Craftsman, another MTD basically and its tending to run (move) when the accelerator is all the way out and even when the brake is engaged. It could be an issue with the stack pulley too, still investigating what exactly is going on. Its fine until the belt gets hot, then it starts to grab.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

You can't use regular v-belts on an MTD variable drive, it'll shred the belt. You have to run the OEM or a stens replacement. They're shallow groove belts, almost look rectangular, also, some are .715 thick which is even bigger than 5/8"

[@SSK-27]

@@EliminatorPerformance Good to know, thanks. I did have a Aramid on it before but one of the idlers bearings went out and fried the belt. Maybe that's related, too much pressure on it, wrong geometry. That belt didn't seem to have the creep issue this new one has but it's a different brand. The other one was a American Eagle which seemed to work pretty well till it got hammered by the dead idler. If this doesn't work out I'll get a Stens. You think Aramid can work in this application or better to got to a conventional belt?

[@steven3517]

I go through a belt every year or two on my huskee or mtd,so Im going with kevlar now. See how long they last.

[@steven3517]

I go through a belt every year or two on my huskee or mtd,so Im going with kevlar now. See how long they last.

[@kentjasperson7135]

Great video and just the information that I needed to know.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@josepharato5885]

You are the man,keep it up,love the videos

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@100vg]

So if a "Kevlar" belt is a little longer than an OEM belt, that should be good as long as there's a slack idler pulley, like on my 46" riding mower single belt Deck Blades Idler Pulleys and another one or two on the Ground Drive Belt? I think the slack idler pulleys will handle the extra length of less than a half inch on each one. Great, detailed explanations! Thank you!

[@TheOzthewiz]

Thank you for this video! You covered material that I have NOT seen on ANY other channel. I have one question: what is the difference between a "Kevlar" (Aramid) belt and one that is Kevlar "wrapped". Will the wrapped one last as long as the "regular" Kevlar belt? Again, THANK YOU for all the information!!

[@EliminatorPerformance]

So the wrapped belts are great for extended life, they go around a pulley with less friction due to the wrapping, and thus don't wear out as fast. However, a raw edge belt will grab the pulley (due to the raw edge being rubber, not a cloth like wrapping) and will wear out quicker due to increased friction. Some snowblowers will specifically call for a raw edge belt in the manual, so a covered belt should not be used.

[@TheOzthewiz]

@@EliminatorPerformance Thank You!

[@dginta7932]

Awesome info…thanks.

[@philliphall5198]

All hear is the cheapest one Even when I explain why there better, they say the engine may blow next

[@lastcenturyclassics]

Made my Day, thanks.

[@dginta7932]

Hmmm, hoping I’m not posting twice but can’t find my other post. If my Yamaha snowblower calls for two belts, a LB42 and a LA33, then I should be safe ordering a 258-042 (5/8 x 42) and 248-033 (1/2 x 33) in the Stens Blue, correct? Yamaha wants $90 for one of the belts! The machine came with Bando belts on it; a SB42 and a SA33. Guess Yamaha OEM parts jump back and forth between Mitsuboshi and Bando belts... Thanks for another great video.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Be careful, Honda A = 1/2 and B = 5/8 but the belts were sometimes longer than the part code. So a LB42 could actually be a 5/8x43 and a LA33 could actually be a 1/2" x 33 or 34. My advice would be to measure your belts and then go with a kevlar belt of that length. The issue is, LB and LA is metric. So an LB measures 16.5mm thick at the top, which is actually 0.650" and 5/8" is 0.625 so you'd be getting a slightly thinner belt which could affect the length because it might sit farther into the v of the pulley.

[@johnnyjimj]

@@EliminatorPerformance EXACTLY 👍. I have a Honda snowblower and it took me a while to realize that when I first started changing belts.

[@larryseibold4287]

I thought that there three main types of V-belts: Classic (A-E) with standard V angles but sized by the inside circumference; fractional HP (L) with standard V angles sized by the outside circumference; and Deep V (or narrow wedge) with steeper V angles sized on the outside circumference. There is also sheathed and cogged version of each. I dont know what makes a belt fractional HP (L series), but i can only assume that it is low on fibers (cheep) compared to a classical (A-E). I assume that to use a deep V belt, one needs the pullies to match that angle, but dont know how to easily measure that. I didnt see any mention of these three main belt types in your video. I am all in favor of buying the best belt that you can afford for the heavy duty application, and aramid fiber is likely that. I assume that that is what the old Gates green line was?

[@stevenrowe5047]

Have they stopped making the green belts? My father-in-law had a mower shop and he had the normal black belts but there were the green belts. More expensive but last forever. Is that what the blue belt is now. Thank you.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Yes the majority of the aramid or kevlar belts are blue now, but I still see some green ones from time to time.

[@stevenrowe5047]

@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you.

[@slimeminem7402]

I've only seen belt and pulleys being used in compressors, car engines, small workshop machines and so I'm wondering can they be used to transmit significant amount of torque? Like lifting/lowering a small metal bridge for pedestrians?

[@robertmailhos8159]

Great information on this issue of drive belt,s

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@robertmailhos8159]

@@EliminatorPerformance anytime young man

[@brandonsilvay4822]

I'm using the blue coupler belt from my tow truck for the hydraulics

[@patrickgallagher3859]

I'm a gates fan of what would be considered a Kevlar belt how does kevlar and the true blue compare I think that would be a good video

[@zachqueen8316]

What is the difference between the tan belts and the blue belts? Is one better than the other?

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Just a different covering / fabric wrapping. The blue belts are kevlar/aramid, but some dark brown belts are also marked as being kevlar from MTD, so you can't really go by color anymore, always read the product description.

[@kjell-richardlvdal373]

Very good information, I use always kevlar belt. On auger, snow never clog up in my Yanmar ys90t belt modell, I use belt from sweden there they Have i between zises 33 inch and 33, 5, 34 34,5 in hes 33 in hes refer to outer length of the belt

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@theodricaethelfrith]

Thanks, this video cost me an extra €85 over the price of cheap black belts. I hope it's worth it!

[@modernvikingnorway]

hi mr mekanic. How can i find my locker iron that holds the kevlar belts in the weehels..i have a canadiana 1032, and just got my new belts, but its no iron in the possisjon

[@billlovett4256]

Nice job on the video, this is gonna be long winded. We buy and stock 100s of Stens belts and like them overall. They are our only aftermarket belts. Not sure I agree fully with the Kevlar belts being better all the time. Raw Edge have more traction and most have way more cord impregnated in them. I have unsuccessfully attempted to do warranty claims on Stens belts and the work it takes to do the claim and then it's denied sucks. So we no longer advertise / promote the 2 year warranty thing especially when you're selling it over the counter. Lastly WARNING they have some AYP belts I came across that are way out of spec and it's a problem. 265-182 is 3/4" too long compared to OEM and even the length that they say it is. (Way too loose on the pulley). So I only use OEM instead. Stens said it was an "acceptable margin of error" !!!! NOT... 265-361 is also 1" longer then it says in their database . When I called them and I was told we might be better off avoiding their AYP snowblower belts. And they would begrudgingly let me return the 20 or so belts that are out of spec, but of course I have to fill out a warranty claim and pay shipping. Now I measure all the belts if they fit on the belt measurer and check to see if they're in spec. Sorry that was so long lol. Would have been easier over the phone. Bill in Ottawa.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Good to know! Usually when I'm ordering a true blue replacement I go with the exact size and I generally don't have any issues. Will have to consult with the old man on those numbers you gave us, great info! Thanks for watching Bill!

[@waynestefinashen239]

The OLD MAN from EP just saying thanks to Bill for the information on the two Stens belts that are too long. I will be checking my inventory to see if we have these in stock and if we do i will take length measurements and update you. Once again thanks and never worry about long winded replies especially when the information if so important.

[@billlovett4256]

@@EliminatorPerformance Donyboy73 and I talk quite a bit and share information and tips and tricks , if you're interested we can exchange numbers and talk once and a while....no pressure sometimes it's easier than typing that's all.

[@waynestefinashen239]

@@EliminatorPerformance Bill i have just checked our inventory 265-182 (5/8x38) we are only carrying the True Blue Kevlar and they measure OK but we have one only 265-361 which is supposed to be 5/8x37 1/2" and it actually measures 38 1/4" or 3/4"+ oversize. Interesting when checking on line the AYP 532408010 belt number is offered from 37 1/2", 37 5/8" up to 38" in length yet when you check the AYP chart it shows actual length required to be 37.3". For us to have this belt in stock somewhere along the line we must have installed one and tested it as functional. Problem is that we rarely check the length of belts as received so not sure what the circumference of the belt installed would have been. Thanks again

[@waynestefinashen239]

The Oregon replacement belt per other suppliers of belts as an alternate is Oregon 115222 which is 5/8x38"

[@patrickgallagher3859]

What's the comparison with kevlar and amrid

[@SerenoOunce]

Kevlar is just the brand name of aramid made by DuPont.

[@amjandert]

Does anyone know why I am unable to like certain videos like this one?

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Looks all good from my end?

[@SulaimanTheWordSmith]

Great advice

[@dougwollard741]

And to think, not another person on here has caught that!

[@danielrandolph9170]

Hi i had a issue with my stihl chainsaw it would cut off when i put the chain brake on or any time the chain got stop i ask your opinion yesterday and carb adjustment it's a little high tect for me idont have a rpm meter . So today i took it apart clean it up pretty good & something click i couldn't move the chain back & forth freely & i just put in a new clutch and sprocket kit . So i was thinking the grade of steel they make stuff with now days so i open i up & one spring on the clutch had broken so i just put the old one back in & it runs ok dosen't cut off . Thanks for your help stay safe Daniel from central Mississippi

[@raygordon4335]

what should the oil level be in the zero turn transmissions in a WYRZ 50 Parklands Ride on mower ?

[@gordbaker896]

Over Simplified. Explanation of sizes 3L 4L etc and lengths in Part #

[@tonym6920]

Hey Eliminator, very informative as usual, thanks for sharing your expertise. 👍👍. I stick with OEM belts for my equipment.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks for watching!

[@songsfromthelord888]

Thanks for excellent information 🙂🙂🙂 REMEMBER God loves you!

[@gigiraymond9267]

Mr. EP , would like to know if true blue Kevlar belts are available for my Toro power clear single stage snowblower 8, 21 . Thank you Sir for your time , and the video .

[@EliminatorPerformance]

You need a model number, search that on google to find a parts diagram, and then you find the part number for your belts, then google search those part numbers to find the lengths of the belts, then if they're "whole size" you can use a kevlar or Aramid replacement!

[@gigiraymond9267]

@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you Sir , for the infomation , and for taking the time to answer my question , greatly appreciated .

[@rodneysweetnam8653]

Hi Eliminator - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. Very interesting video. I have enquired and researched this issue but haven't got a definitive answer - how do you measure a V belt? Is it the outside diameter, the inside diameter or half way up the side of the V. I know a small difference in length can have a massive implication in correct operation. Also, I had a recent experience where two new belts wouldn't fit correctly only to discover that they were 74inches branded as 73. Problem solved when my usual Dunlop belt came back into stock. I would be very grateful for guidance from some expert out there in the interweb!

[@EliminatorPerformance]

We've always measured our belts with a seamstress ruler (it's like a paper ruler in a roll which allows it to form around a curve) so you take a small paint marker and mark your starting point, then go around the belt. If you're measuring a belt and purchasing belts marked A98 for example, it would measure 1/2"x100" as you subtract 2 for A belts. B belts (5/8") you subtract 3 so a B97 would be a 5/8"x100" generally those industrial belts use those sizing guides. As for our STENS True Blue belts, the 1st 3 numbers identify the width, so 238 means 3/8", 248 means 1/2" and 258 means 5/8" and the last 3 numbers identifies the length so 038 would be a 38" so a 248-038 would be an Aramid (TrueBlue) 1/2"x38" The other belts you see on my table are generally different numbers, and the OEM replacement ones have various numbers that don't mean anything in particular. We've seen the belt measuring tools, but unfortunately I've only seen them for 1/2" belts and up to 80" I believe (I could be wrong on the max length, but I do know there's limits) so we prefer to measure with the seamstress ruler. Then I compare my length to what the manual says, and if it's close I know it's the same belt. As belts generally don't stretch too much.

[@rodneysweetnam8653]

@@EliminatorPerformance Hi Eliminator - Big Rodders again. Many thanks for your comprehensive response, I appreciate it. I use a Dunlop AA73 belt on my Snapper RER. I have a spare one so I'll get measuring tomorrow. Once again, many thanks, I always enjoy the topics you present.

[@chrispompano]

Who makes Kevlar or Armid V-belts for the auto/transportation industry? Or, who are the major industrial industry mfgs.????

[@dougwollard741]

What facinates me is the amount of people(and u are not the only one sir) that call TENSIONER pulleys.. "idler" pulleys. How the hell call a idler pulley put tension on a friggin belt? Hence the word..idler! It "idles". Jesus

[@breannaoliver6316]

Eliminator performance. Desafortunadamente la mayoria de esas bandas estan hechas en china. Lo cual sognifica de Baja calidad

[@paule.maurice1521]

Consider moving the engine [ tractor ] to fix an odd sized belt

[@johnnyjimj]

Works great unless you have more than one belt to deal with 😉

[@BrucesShop]

Thanks Save some money and spend a bit more.

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Bruce! I thought I had always been subscribed to you, but it turns out I was subscribed to another Bruce haha I fixed that, thanks for watching!

[@MattTZew]

👍

[@EliminatorPerformance]

Thanks!

[@NZTechArc]

there is something wrong with your audio, get yourself a good cardoid mic. too much treble and your stereo is not consistent.

[@LouSassle]

comp-osite ??? You put the wrong em-phasis on the wrong sy=llable

[@jalynjalyn3994]

Get Rid of the "Gangster" Sun Glasses !!! Why do you people think you need to wear Sun Glasses ???

[@EliminatorPerformance]

I actually have an ocular condition (sensitivity to light) and these glasses are prescription. They are only dark at the top of the lens. Thanks for watching!

[@jalynjalyn3994]

@@EliminatorPerformance Sorry for my harsh comment,,, but I think all viewer's of You Tube Video's get better enjoyment out of them if we can view your uncovered race's... And those Video producers that just show their hand's with wiggly fingers and never show their face's are i.e. that Big Truck Guy,,, are dumped immediately...

[@johnnyjimj]

@@jalynjalyn3994 Also some people can't stand bright computer screens - I have lost a great deal of my light sensitivity from working too many decades around computers, especially since switching from bright text on dark monitors, which was the norm in DOS, to the so-called 'paper white' fad that was started by Apple and is still commonly used in Windows word processing, on the pretense it's 'more natural' for the eyes, despite the fact that the brightness blinds you if you are to type for any extended amount of time. I now only use dark mode applications or plugins, whether on the web like here or just typing in a word processor.