Are there secrets to climbing training?

[@bodha99]

Also, are you getting a patreon, so we can support the channel?

[@climbermacleod]

Thanks for asking Grats. I have a Patreon page at www.patreon.com/davemacleod And also a donations button on the footer of my website www.davemacleod.com

[@vixeno]

@@climbermacleod you could promote it here each time you put a video out. Would make us viewers more aware and we can contribute as a trade for such valuable information

[@BrunoAxhausen]

@Dave MacLeod Hi Dave, while I appreciate the fact that you let us learn from you for free without getting blasted by advertising at every turn, I really think you should mention this a bit more ;-)) I‘m sure there‘s a lot of people out there who would gladly give back a bit each month in appreciation of your efforts! In any case, you now have a new donor and I hope you‘ll soon have loads more!! best, bruno

[@Will-rp2xx]

@Dave Macleod Yeah definitely tell us about your patreon occasionally. Also, if you ever get the opportunity do do sponsored videos, I think I can speak for most and say that we would support the heck out of that!

[@climbermacleod]

@@BrunoAxhausen Thanks! Yes I'll maybe start putting it in my video descriptions. You are right, the above comments sparked quite a few contributors which is great.

[@Keithsmegbelly]

Will you be my dad?

[@timignatov7394]

Best comment... ever!

[@MrFatfred]

Is that you Matt?

[@HarveyCl]

There is a Scottish climber who gives me beta pretty often at my local gym (in the Southeast US) - it feels like I have my own Dave helping in person.

[@Th3Nguyen]

I gained so much confidence indoors after climbing on non existant footholds outside

[@marcg3923]

i started climbing outside on slab boulders... it feels like magic to be able to climb those

[@thomasanderson1882]

"a tendency to question of everything."- Wise!

[@ManitheMonkey]

Well said Dave. Diversity is key, it is not a coincidence that almost all the really strong people outdoors do bouldering and sport climbing.

[@bodha99]

A vid right before I head to the gym. Dave, you help keep the motivation burning.

[@BomberBeta]

You're insight into your success as a climber is amazing. Great video!

[@cob1965]

As per usual the voice of reason! Great advice, enjoy the diversity, thats one of the things that makes the sport so interesting.

[@tathtath]

I think people are taking climbing too serious, forgetting it is a hobby and it is supposed to be fun! Getting overly hyped will get them frustrated or injured. As Dave said, my best progress was made by climbing more outdoors and gaining more experience instead of gym training all the time.

[@TheSampirat]

I totally agree with you. But more and more people seams to want to call climbing a "sport" instead !!! (sic)

[@maxprat]

Do you have other hobbies/passions? Feels like commitment is the crux, and in general people choose a handful of things to be fairly good at. Much fewer people choose one specific thing and master it. Sort of fear of commitment, or fear of missing out, maybe. Especially in the mountains, there are so many different things one can do.

[@climbermacleod]

Yes I also really like hanging out with my family, studying biochemistry and nutrition, writing books, filmmaking and just reading. I shift focus between some of them.

[@olieldridge7959]

Hey Dave! I see on instagram lots of the young comp climbers doing weights in the gym, have you ever done weight training? I’ve got a finger injury at the moment and wondering if strength training in the gym will help make me come back stronger, as well as a lot of easier climbing to improve technique?

[@climbermacleod]

I will address this in another video. But yes if I were you I'd be all over body strength work either in the gym or on your set of rings. As for the effects on climbing technique of easy climbing kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqa8Z62NnL-bj8U

[@jackjoslin1064]

Hey Dave! Looking to get myself into some trad climbing, would love to see a video about how to get into it and the best gear to start with, etc. thanks so much really love your channel!!

[@aUStzA]

Buy a used rack of cams, some nuts that are best for your area (check MP or local climbing shop for which nuts are best for your area) and an easy route to plug gear on. multipitchclimbing.com helped me a lot. Have fun and be safe - trad is a lot simpler than you think!

[@wilsworld8150]

Hey Dave, great video! I was just wondering, how do you go about making a training plan/schedule?

[@UkSapyy]

Sit down and learn to plan, all thru hikes or good outdoor sessions have planning involved. Training plan is just the same. A good training plan takes months to make good but with the internet you can draw in aloads of inspiration. Planning is very important, it defines a structure, path to follow and set goals. Think about how serious you want to be and with a plan slowly ease into it... in my opinion :)

[@kc3718]

i know knowt about climbing but these concepts sure do transpose into other sports.

[@coltish]

I love that diversity is one of the big secrets to improvement. It makes so much sense because it's also a biological necessity to sustain life, and see it thrive.

[@LilDeb]

I’m a female 60 and started climbing 2 years ago. I’m trying to maintain my strength. Any tips on this? I climb indoors only at this point and bicycle and race walk. I seem to be getting stronger with climbing.

[@Karmakameleeon]

you should check out the interviews that Dierdre Wolownick has given. I believe something on trainingbeta's podcast or maybe it was the enormocast?

[@atract0r]

Dear Dave, thank you for your insights. I have one question: do you think it is important for a climber to do muscle-building with gym training or will climbing alone (and climbing-specific exercises such as campus and finger boards) naturally build the necessary musculature in order to keep progressing?

[@alimcmellon7130]

Training needs to be specified to be effective and efficient. Don't waste time in conventional gyms. Get on the hang board, go climbing lots, get good rest.

[@Bradaclsym]

Hey Dave, question. What are your opinions on the moonboard? (my apologises if you have addressed this in a video or blog post that has skipped over my head).

[@climbermacleod]

45 degree boards are great, I have a big one at home. Not a moonboard but I am quite happy making up my own problems.

[@MakeItLookEasyClimbing]

Thanks for this motivating video. May I ask for help with my training problem. I have only 2 evenings a week for training and most of the time I am too tired from work to motivate myself. I just can't organize more time for training. In the past I liked training for climbing and I loved to collect exercises for body tension and stretching. But now, because of this nasty time problem, I lost all my interest in all that and can't find motiation. Do you know any secrets how to deal with this dammed lack of time demotivations?

[@climbermacleod]

I wish I had a magic solution to that, but I don't have any. All I can say is I hope you really enjoy the job since it is costing you so much!

[@PhilippeVaucher]

You don't need motivation, you need discipline. I know it's hard to hear but it's the discipline that will get you going when you have no motivation. There are plenty of articles on the web about it, you'd find them easily.

[@TheSampirat]

Hey What i will tell you here is not a secret nor an answer, but i hope instead a hint of thinking. When people (i include myself in) say "i don't have the time". I'm always think that we all have 24h in a day and 7days in a week ... So what does that really mean to "not having time" ? It feels like this statement is too hard to truly define to be of any usefulness to thinking. So instead i try to replace "i don't have the time" by "most of my time goes elsewhere" witch is i think more true, more defined and more useful to thinking. Cause with that you are facing concrete problem. A lack is abstract. But something taking too much time is concrete. If it's work then you know what you have to do is either finding a way to do the same work in less time(that may require changing company if you are employed and your boss is still stupid enough to think it's about time), or trying to incorporate the training time in the working time (one that comes to mind is using text to speech program to "read" your emails wile executing easy training routine, or just using stairs instead of elevator), you can also thing about commute time there. But let's face it most of us do have time to watch youtube so the time might not be the real problem here. Instead i tend to think that we all have a limited amount of energy to spend in a day and once exhausted we can't do any active things, so we are watching tv as it's passive so it's fine (i'm talking about mental energy here not physical energy). And sometimes after the work day we simply don't have any energy left. I sens in your message that this is probably a big part of what you are talking about. For this i see too strategy: - first is using your limited stock of energy in priority order. For this reason lot people prefer to train early in the morning before going to work. So if at the end of the day you lack energy, it would be during work time not during training time. I personally never been able to exploit this strategy because i'm a night owl rather than an early bird, but for more "normal" people it seams to be a good strategy. - second is increasing your energy stock. Everyone is different in this but for me what works best is actually spending frequently few days in mountains, being outdoor in the sun in beautiful landscape and just do easy climbing/hiking/ski touring/mountain climbing ... But for me it shouldn't be about for performance, it should be all about vertical active chill. And by the way during those days don't answer phone or read any emails, it should be all about where you are at the present moment and people who are with you there right now. That's what works best for me, just find your own way. Just my 2cts...

[@MakeItLookEasyClimbing]

@@TheSampirat you are right and it sounds like a useful strategy. Thank you so much for your detailed advice. It is a good Plan for this new year 👍

[@CursedKitten1]

Min maxing mentality works in a videogame but doesn't really work in real life. Sure it's useful if you're strapped for time but it's not going to be enough to become great at something. If anything trying to minimise training time is a bad sign: quality and love of the sport should come first

[@chillpurr275]

I would be interested in a training video that includes exercises without training equipment like a bouldering gym or hangboard. I have an elastic band (thera-band) and find it quiet nice for training but I am not sure what exercises are beneficial for climbing. If you don't use one, are there any other exercises you could recommend that one can do from home? Thanks again for all your videos! edit: maybe you could also explain some things about the most important muscle groups and so on.

[@noahsaxenian12]

lol its september

[@mikawelter5463]

I think motivation is definitely very important but at the end i think your genetics determine how far you will come in climbing.

[@climbermacleod]

As the genetists themselves don't always (but should) say, genes are the gun, the environment is the trigger.

[@mikawelter5463]

Dave MacLeod yeah i mean of course don‘t take genetics as an excuse, you should still push yourself to your limit but in the end some people shoot with air rifles others with an AK47😅

[@Benkkuful]

@@mikawelter5463 Sure, if you don't have good genes you probably won't climb a V15, no matter how hard you try, but I think almost anyone with enough determination and resources can climb a V10.

[@mikawelter5463]

Jami yeah i think in sport climbing if you start at a young age and work really hard you can get to 8b 8c quite surely but to get to the 9a you have to have over the average capabilities, let it be your strength or thechnique....

[@climbermacleod]

@@mikawelter5463 My hunch would be that nearly everyone has a 9a/V15 in them if they are organise seriously around this goal and make good decisions about training.

[@brandondann3514]

Euro people please help, what is he saying? "Breath of experience"?

[@tiffanyalison6987]

Breadth of experience (means range of experience) :)

[@alpinejonny]

Discipline.

[@Teeziel]

first