This is absolutely INSANE !!! You risked your own life in an extremely difficult route! 8b+ is very impressive and very few are able to clear it. But in free solo, WAOUW!!!!! You have to master it to the absolute perfection to do that! 💥💯💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪

Mucha técnica alucinante como ejecuta la escalada mucho control de su fuerza respiración 🫁 lo hace ver sencillo porque es un crack 8b en free solo una ví deportiva

I'm not really a climber, more a mountain runner, but I really enjoy your videos about nutrition

Really smart approach again, trusting in your habilities sometimes dont help to find the real method (phisycal or technicaly) to solve a boulder. And ironically guide you to a path of looking for new betas or trainings that you believe in to be able to do the climb. So is more about questioning everything

やべえ

Fingers o'steel.

Brilliant work. I'd be interested to know whether you would consider trying organic venison or a mix of organic meats fish? I'd be a little worried about the provenance of the McD beef. Or has your research indicated beef is important due to its particular nutritional content?

I tried the keto diet for a few weeks as a vegan. I was pretty much eating that way anyways, aside from one or two things on the daily like fruit and some bread here and there.... I thought it would be easy, but wow did it ever kick my butt. I wasn't aware of the electrolyte imbalance and felt extremely faint for a couple days before giving up. One day I'll give it another go with a bit more knowledge and research. It's not for the faint of heart!

Why didn't the partners turn this man's brain on? Shit. All of this could stop in an instant!!! All the hard work it took to get to 8b+ and all of life may not be the same!!!! Why?! For the hype!!!? What if he doesn't crash to death but becomes disabled. Why then should those who have to care for the "vegetable" have a problem!!!?

Sick climb!

how about the social life aspect of such a strict diet? Did you fid it challenging when it comes to eating out? Eating with friends? Getting supplies? While traveling? etc..

Love this, it really resonates with my journey in climbing.

Can we get a 'What I eat in a day' vlog/video? Pretty please hahaha

There actually seems to be a lot of experimentation right now around nutrition at elite and sub-elite level in other sports. I can’t see much crossover between super high carb fuelling in endurance sports with climbing, but there are athletes operating at equivalent to Font 8C (sub 2:20 marathon??) who are combining low carb with carbo loading prior to big workouts and races, partly in order to improve body composition. I could see that working for a lot of climbers, given it’s less extreme and more doable.

As far as i understand, glycogen storage also requires water retention. People switch to keto diets usually loose a substantial amount of weight at the beginning, even on same caleroies, mostly water from glycogen storage. My hypothesis for performance gains could therefor be a relative strength / power gain due to weight loss (and maintanance of absolute strength). I was therefore disappointed that you did not link your referenced studies, especially the one at 6:24 because the table doesn't show bodyweight.

I'm looking only at the croissant.

Any tips on how to successfully sustain a keto diet? Feel I could do with some guidelines to do it and stick to it.

The best carbs come from fruit, not grains. Baked goods also have fat

Just looked up this video again. I'm on my 4th cold of this winter season 🤧

I wonder if using a targeted-carb approach for a mostly low carb body, post workout, is actually beneficial for recovery. Particularly carb-loading post workout (100+ g carbs).

AG1 is a product of a criminal! Do a search and you will find it…

Ancestrally, before agriculture, we had no real continuous access to carbs. Our whole digestive system is highly evolved to process animal fats and protein exclusively. We are mostly made up from the same material - animal fat and protein (mostly water). It is our ‘proper human diet’. We have about 5g of glucose in our blood. Any more than that and the body has to get rid of it as it’s toxic to the blood vessels. Causes mechanical damage. Sadly most humans today feed almost exclusively on carbs and very low fat, hence the explosion in obesity, T2D, etc. It’s your choice what you put in your mouth 🙂

Anyone else wonder where the balanced studies are ? That cycling endurance one and the 3 hour sub maximal run study are quite extremely high and low carb. What about a middle range 40c/40f/20p or similar. Maybe the flexibilities of adapting and having some meals fattier keto style and some meals/days higher carb perhaps around intense/endurance training could be the optimal for performance, health, adherence Assuming similar high intnesity carbs during a kong bout 50-150g/hr...

It is insane to notice if you are on a KETO diet for a longer timeline, when you try carbs or sugar after a while, you can notice how much of a drug that is... Crazy.

Great video, spot on with everything you said 👌 that's the main problem with Keto, or a modified carnivore like I'm on, it's so easy to miss meals because you're just not as hungry, so used to burning fat you can easily miss meals and not be bothered..... once you get through the first two months initial shock of the diet that is, where your body is screaming for carbs and you have a headache every day 😂 After that though it's great 😃

I'd love to experiment with these sorts of diets, but I find most lean animal foods unappealing from a taste point of view - and I digest really fatty foods poorly. A jar of peanut butter will constipate me for a week. So I feel quite 'trapped' on a higher carb diet. I also have really good insulin and glucose metrics (HbA1C, fasting glucose, TGC/HDL etc), but slightly crap LDL metrics (3.6 mmol/L), so a higher fat diet is also concerning from that angle

It's one thing to talk about diet studies and statistics when giving information/advice. But it's another thing to actually adopt a strict diet and and share your personal experience including your success and mistakes. This is a great source of information. Adaptation of the body is huge when making a lifestyle change in diet. Great video.

I feel like this is exactly what I needed. Going to the gym in a little bit, hopefully I can get the boulder I tried the other day

recently bought 9 out of 10 climbers and it's so funny that i can hear your voice when reading it. love what you do, you are such an inspiration.

Nobody can flex so hard and be so likeable as Dave 😂

Very interesting Dave!

Are there any studies on the benefit of tea in sport performance? 🙂

Really interesting topic and thinking myself to try the keto / low carb diet, but where to start? But isn’t the real problem with obesity the ultra processed foods? An interesting read is the book of chriss van tulleken, ultra processed people. Would really love to hear your opinion about that. 😊

My non-vegan girlfriend showed vegan me this documentary and was kind of surprised at my negative reaction to it. To me it comes down to: is a vegan diet good enough to still allow high level athletic performance? Yes, and any trade-off to my athletic performance as a non-Olympian can be made up elsewhere, and it's well worth the reduction in suffering (of animals, and the negative impacts of industrial farming on its communities), and the increase in sustainability. Here in Colorado, almost half of our water is used to grow animal feed, and this is going to become a huge problem.

You assert that there are no elite athletes on low carb/keto diets but several elite ironman triathletes have converted to this diet as well as many of the ultra-marathon runners. Also, I'm convinced that many of the top World Tour cyclists and teams are following low-carb training now but just keeping quiet about it. What leads me to this conclusion is I watch a lot of live cycling especially the big three week tours. A lot of people claim that the reason why cyclists like Tadej Pogacar is so dominant is because they have trained to consume 120g of carbs per hour but to me that is just nonsense. If that were the case then they would need to neck a 20g gel every ten minutes of every hour and it is obvious watching them they are just not. It's not in their drinks bottle either because on hot stages they are constantly pouring their bottles over themselves to keep cool. I believe they are largely fat-adapted and only need maybe a couple of gels an hour if that.

Can somebody convert to keto over like a years span? Like very slowly reduce carbs so the side effects aren’t so noticeable in your energy levels and training?

I am type 1 diabetes and a marathon runner. I can tell you it is NOT possible to go without a certain amount of carbs. Edit: it is fine if I wouldn’t run.

Such a classic strawman argument, you show carbs in form of high fat processed junk food and you call yourself a nutritionist, you can find out in no time that combining high fat with carbs is a bad idea. You clearly have a agenda, the last time you showed carbs in form of a chocolate cake... I mean come on. Just research how your blood gets thicker from a single high fat meal and your red bloodcells will stick together and lose there elasticity, which than leads to blood flow restriction, because you have capillaries that let only one red bloodcells through and the cell has to fold to go through. This happens with a single high fat meal, just imagine long term effects... You talk about the anecdotal athletes and there diet and that we shouldn't copy it, but at the same time you advertise a diet that is evidence based harmful to your body and easy to measure. Athletic performance does not equal health, that is a fact aswell. I can answer your glycogen storage question... you are eating way too much protein to be In real ketosis, and your body will produce glycogen from proteins through gluconeogenesis. A keto diet means constant stress to your kidney and endocrine system, that is why you need your coffee stimulants, because your adrenal glands are f..ed up and you run on cortisol and adrenaline. It is not that hard to find out, but with a agenda it is impossible. And the elephant in the room, called morals/ethics, doesn't get addressed either, you take a something that does not belong to you, a life of another individual. But hey, you don't seem very consistent in your logic, I bet you are a moral relativist aswell. Carnivore clowns that can't even metabolize uric acid, so funny I can't stop pupu my pants. Climbingcontent is your better suit, and there are some helpful tips that I thank you for. MASTEROFSELF

Hunger depends mainly on the protein intake. Prof. Layman showed that the intake of proteins should be 120gr for men and 100gr for women undependend of the weight. This should be the proven amount by evolution. That means people who consume a lot of carbs regularly missing the right amount of proteins. The body is crying after meal unless that amount of protein is reached. You can imagine was happens since the amount of protein in Carbs from plants is very less and not in the right blend of aminoacids to go the anabolic path during metabolism. In plant proteins its a maximimum of 13% which is digestible by humans, 87% is waste of nitrogen and used for energy. Not the best source at all. Proteins from real food are best taken by eggs. In eggs there are 48% NNU (Net Nitrogen Utilization) for anabolism pathway (regeneration, cell repair etc.) but 52% ist Nitrogen waste which has to be cleared by leaver and kindneys. The point is that every living species has his own Master Amino Acid Pattern which is best for the body. For human this pattern was recognized by Prof. Lucas Moretti. He found the optimal blend of the 8 essentiell Aminoacids. These MAPs go 99% through the anabolic pathway with only 1% waste. They don't have any calories, pure cristalline aminoacids derived from fermentation. 10gr (10 pressed tabletts) equals a 350gr Steak in protein value without harming your stomage, liver and kindeys. Nevertheless i like real food. So i do my climbing workouts on starvation 16/8. In the morning i take 5 MAps two cup of coffe with coconut oil and a teaspone of Glycen. Then after training at about 12-13:00PM i have a shake of milk, 4 eggs, oats, banana, 20gr whey and some spyces, curcuma etc. It is about 1000kcal and 60gr protein. This keeps me fit until 6 PM where i enjoy som dinner with cheese, a cooked meal, what ever. Bevor bedtime i take another 5 Maps. So i could be shure my protein intake is sufficient. I did a strong ketodiet years ago, but this demaged my carbohydrate metabolism. I try to be metabolic flexibel, which means my body should be able to burn all fuels that are present at the moment without losts in performance. This works for me best with 1/3 Protein, 1/3 carbs and 1/3 fats per meal and intermittend fasting.

Adaptation to the fuel you take in is a thing imho. I have always been a high-carb eater and made an experiment a few years ago, when I was in my 40s. The theory I wanted to test was to see if I could extend my bouldering sessions if I take in enough carbs mid-session. After every hour, I would take in a calculated amount of carbs (actually not only carbs, but also some fat and protein). It immediately worked like wonder and I could extend my gym bouldering session from 3h to 4h, also increasing the number of quality attempts in the same way. But after about 2-3 weeks I was back to normal (3h and the same old amount of attempts). After leaving away the additional food, sessions got shorter first until a few weeks later everything was back to normal again. I conclude from that experience that my body simply adapted in a way that it didn't rely on refueling from internal sources of energy during the session but lowering the self-produced energy and "expecting" the nutrients to come from outside. I made comparable experiences in other activities (e.g. mountain hiking). That might mean that adding nutrients during one specific session (e.g during a comp) might have it's benefits if strategically applied. But only if used sparingly so that no adaption occurs. Since then I never take in any food during a gym session or mountain hikes. PS.: I mentioned this effect to a bouldering coach one day but he simply just didn't believe me. Classic.

Hey Dave, does your collarbone still stick out ?

You probably heard about tirzepatide / retatutride ? 2 and 3 pathways glp1 analogs that are prescribed to diabetics/obese patient. The effects are mind blowing (and almost no side effects) on very low dose when applied to an already healthy person. Having tried the keto diet, this new class of drugs makes it void, the reduction in general inflammation levels were comparable to keto, the body recomposition happens without any mental struggle. Daily life and social practicality is unaffected. It feels like "cheating", there is not a more accurate word to describe the feeling. It makes you immune to hunger (and all associated dopamine reward loops). To tell you how massive the effect is, it made me believe that the end of the obesity/hypertension/diabetes pandemic is not a fictionnal story anymore. Regarding climbing, timing carbs correctly before a session (because the stomach emptying will be slower) so add about 2-3h what you would normally do. i was not fat by any means but could lose a few kgs, it's just crazy how much of a difference 2-3kgs makes on sport climbing, basically a whole grade (at 68kg) but i guess advanced sport climbers already know that (i just was surprised about the extent of the parameter). This is after only two weeks of tirzepatide.

LONGEVITY>PERFORMANCE

Carnivore/ketogenic diets take away all my symptoms of CFS, they allow me to get out of bed and function as a human being, they take away the constant dread and depression. I’m not an athlete, and if I was I’d gladly trade athletic performance for being able to live a “normal” life.

Videos like these are a pearl of knowledge, thank you Dave for investing all your time in this thinkings

i do hot yoga and if i don't eat a candy bar right before i get a serious headache

I find this video unusually non-controversial for the topic and the poster. Very well done! The most controversial is the disgusting UPF food there. I get my carbs from beans and oats. Both come together with protein and fiber and have a ton of health benefits. No need for junk 😊

Zach Bitter, US champion 100 miles 11:40 hours, does Keto. During competitions he eats carbs too. He has some videos about his diet and training in yt.

@climberMacLeod @Dave MacLeod, Dave McLeod Alex Megos has a video on yt where he shows very detailed what he eats. I calculated all the proteine, fat and carbs. It was not Keto but a restrictec carb meal. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmLTmJKhpt14iLMsi=xPuFEGnpslMRVFyO Hallo Alex, I calculated the calories, carbs, fats and proteins of your meal. I calculated with 2-3 tbs of oil for each pan = 3 pans. 2 tbs = 1025 cal 3 tbs = 1388 cal. Now let´s have a look on the distribution of the calories. Carbs 160 cal Protein 140 cal Fat minimum 846 cal, maximum 1209 cal The meal has between 1025 - 1388 cal. Alex's meal (if he would lick out the pans too) consists of: Carbs = 11,5-15,6 % Protein = 10-13,6 % Fat = 60,9-82,5 % That dish is called low carb high fat (LCHF) = Keto diet. But the problem is: how much of the oil/fat (846-1209 cal) from the pans does Alex get really into his stomach???? I assume at least a third = 282 (from 2 tbs) till 403 (from 3 tbs) from all 3 inputs of oil + fat (total 117 cal. from tempeh, a third = 39 cal.) Vegetables without oil = 180 cal + Tempeh without oil/fat 179 cal + a third of the total oil/fat minimum 282 cal Sum 641 cal. minimum intake of his stomach Sum 762 cal. maximal intake of his stomach Calories distribution minimum -maximum intake of oil/fat Carbs = 21-24 % Protein = 18,8 -21,8 % Fat = 37-43 % This dish is called a low carb diet. .................... The details of my calculation: The carbs, calories and total calories of the vegetables per100 g Broccoli 7 g carbs = 28 cal, 100 g Broccoli have 34 cal Zucchini 3 g = 12 cal, 17 cal Aubergine 6 g = 24 g, 25 cal Carrots 7 g = 28, 25 cal Pepper 9 g = 36, 31 cal Lauch 14 g = 56, 61 cal Onion 9 g = 36 cal, 40 cal Champignons 3 g = 12 cal, 22 cal Chard 1 g = 4 cal, 23 cal Let's say Alex eats from each about 100 g = 900 g= 244 cal But from the carbs and total amount you must substract the fibers because our body cannot digest them. 68 g - 16 g fibres = only 52 g carbs = 208 cal. From the total cal of carbs l you must also substract 16 g fiber x 4 = 64 cal. 208-64 = 144 cal carbs Total carbs 144 cal Vegetables 244-64 (fiber) = 180 cal. Alex takes about 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil = 30-45 ml. 10 ml = 81 cal 30-45 ml = 243-364 cal. Same for the chard in the pan = 243-364 cal. Total Vegetables 180 + 2 x Oil = 666 - 908 cal The tempeh gyros package has 200 g = 296 cal: fat 13 g = 117 cal carbs = 4 g = 16 cal protein 35 g = 140 cal carbs vegetable + carbs tempeh = 160 cal He ads about 2-3 tablespoons of oil = 243-364 cal. Total Gyros + oil = 539 - 660 cal Total Vegetables plus gyro = 1025 - 1388 cal His meal (if he eats 100 g from each vegetable) has between 1025 and 1388 cal. Now let´s have a look on the distribution of the calories. Carbs 160 cal Protein 140 cal Fat minimum 846 cal, maximum 1209 cal The meal has between 1025 - 1388 cal. Alex's meal (if he would lick out the pans too) consists of: Carbs = 11,5-15,6 % Protein = 10-13,6 % Fat = 60,9-82,5 % That dish is called low carb high fat (LCHF) = Keto diet. But the problem is: how much of the oil/fat (846-1209 cal) from the pans does Alex get really into his stomach???? I assume at least a third = 282 (from 2 tbs) till 403 (from 3 tbs) from all 3 inputs of oil + fat (total 117 cal. from tempeh, a third = 39 cal.) Vegetables without oil = 180 cal + Tempeh without oil/fat 179 cal + a third of the total oil/fat minimum 282 cal Sum 641 cal. minimum intake of his stomach Sum 762 cal. maximal intake of his stomach Calories distribution minimum -maximum intake of oil/fat Carbs = 21-24 % Protein = 18,8 -21,8 % Fat = 37-43 % This dish is called low carb diet I hope I did not some miscalculations. Greetings

Sad like Dave’s croissant