Are You Using Your Fret Rocker Wrong?

[@scillyautomatic]

Thanks for taking the time to talk thru some basics (like this) every now and then.

[@msmith7462]

Thanks for bringing up the problem might be that the fret is not fully seated. Cannot underestimate that and I'll always try to fully seat before I level. Many if not most high frets I've run into were solved with tap of a hammer/dowel and a little CA as you suggest. Along those lines, I've also since learned that I might have caused the unseating of the frets by saturating the fretboard with Dunlop lemon oil, which I've ceased doing...

[@jfo3000]

I believe that you need to evaluate neighboring groups of 3 frets to be certain that the outer two frets are not low and causing the rocking. There is more deduction required when using this tool.

[@mulekickhandmadeguitars8465]

I build electric cigar box guitars. When my fret rocker tells me I have a high spot on a fret, I've been using 2000 grit emery cloth to correct the high spot. It really works for me and it's cheap. Thanks for all your videos.

[@he11bent6]

I have a Fret Kisser. Highly recommend! Good video.

[@TheJbenwaa-i3r]

This video just saved me from ruining a brand new neck! You have a great way of explaining things for us plebes 😂 thanks. New sub

[@rocknazca56]

GRACIAS MAESTRO POR DARME LUZ EN LAS DUDAS DE LA NIVELACION DE TRASTES ME QUEDA CLARO LA MANERA CORRECTA DE USAR EL FRETROCKER. GRACIAS. THANKS. DESDE TAMPICO/MADERO TAMAULIPAS MEXICO, ATLANTIC COAST

[@fuzzymuppet1990]

Hey chris, I've seen a few DIY fret kissers by using one of those cheap 16$ SM 4.5" understring leveling beams as a flat surface . Just use double side tape on the bottom of the beam. Cut your 4-1/2 inch sandpaper strip that goes under the beam into 3 pieces , making the center piece small, roughly 1/2 inch wide. Then, apply the two longer 2-inch sandpaper strips grit side up on both sides and apply the center piece with the grit side down. So now u have a smooth level surface that is level with your sand paper !

[@George_Taylor_]

The sandpaper/tape will have too much squishy give compared to stainless steel; results will be inaccurate, especially as the sandpaper strips on either side that you're depending upon to keep everything level wear with repeated rubbing across the guiding fret surfaces. Those strips are paper; not steel. The only way to be sure this isn't happening will be to check your work as you go with a quality steel fret rocker, but if you already have a good fret rocker, then you're better off just doing the job with the rocker and a $6 steel file as Chris describes here and in his other video. The reason that uneven sandpaper wear isn't an issue with a leveling beam is that the sandpaper is applied along the entire length of the beam, and thus the sandpaper wears down evenly across its entire surface; what you're suggesting here will result in uneven wear of the individual paper strips that will be too subtle to be detected with the human eye. Really, if you do enough fretwork to really need the added speed of a Fret Kisser (i.e., if you're a professional luthier), you should just get the Fret Kisser.

[@sgt.grinch3299]

Thanks Chris. I have never set up a guitar. Learning from you every episode Sir.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I am hoping that when the time comes to build your first guitar, the process will go smoothly and that I could help.

[@KarstenJohansson]

I just had to buy that shirt. And Google managed to get your site right off the bat. You're doing something right with the SEO. I do all my guitar work myself (including scalloping) so I love channels like this.

[@restojon1]

Thank you for another fantastic video and for sharing your extensive knowledge once again. Although I did already know the information you passed on in this video, I know many people will benefit from it greatly. For many years I worked with vintage vehicles and machine work so I (sort of) invented a method for checking for low frets at the ends of the fretboard when you can't utilise the rocking motion of the rocker. I have an ultra bright pencil torch and a set of feeler gauges and my method was to slide the rocker up to the frets as you mention, but if the rocker sailed straight over I would shine the pencil torch from the other side of the rocker to see if any light was showing between the rocker and fret surface. If so, I would mark it up using the sharpie and then go through the feeler gauges to get an idea on what sort of drop there is. Now, on the higher frets what I tend to do is try to work in some "fall off" to overcome the gap and this tends to not only deal with the low fret, but win you a slightly better action on the top end of the neck too but, you have to go slowly so as not to create a problem around the 12th to 15th fret area (ask me how I know 🙈). However, if you have a fair chunk of gap on the 1st, it is as you said, a levelling beam job but don't let that put you off, it will give you a better result overall and will bring everything in quicker in my experience.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@restojon1 Great tips @restojon1!

[@ssiowi]

Thank-you Chris; important primer. DIY pals, pay attention here. Patience with rocking frets produces the desired results. Fun fact: I'm watching the Highline Guitars channel as I replace frets on my 20+ years old and lovely Taylor 314CE. Thanks again Chris and please carry on! Cheers from WA state.

[@clutch2827]

Look up the word expensive in the dictionary and you will find it is interchangeable with the word StewMac.

[@MixingGBP]

True but when the part breaks or if you wear it out, they will send you a new one after 1 day, 1 year or 10 years from now. Amazon won’t do that.

[@CS_Murphy_R9]

​@@MixingGBP Exactly and that's why I still use them For my Tools!👍

[@travelingman9763]

Chinese made products quite often. Marked way way up.

[@Jeremya74]

​@@MixingGBPIF there still in business..stewmac is more for professional ..someone who spends hrs weekly doing this kind of work

[@eddiejr540]

I bought a cheap notched straight edge off Amazon…it was as crooked as a Virginia fence…got one from Stew Mac but now I’ve spent more than I should have…yea, I’m an idiot 🫤

[@MixingGBP]

Well said about creeping up on removing the high spot. Those files do a lot of work to remove metal with hardly any downward pressure from your hands.

[@UnfrozenCavemanLawyer-xq1qi]

Hint: check your rocker on a known straight edge, like a levelling beam. If it's not straight, ink the edge of it and true it up on your levelling beam by inking the rockers edge with a sharpie. I've bought 2 rockers in the last year - neither were straight😅 They are now Take care

[@Jeremya74]

Were did you buy bad rockers so I don't get mine there..two of them??..rediculous

[@nonethek9608]

Nice video! From a multiple guitar owner experience, high spots are 80% of the time a question of wrongly sited fret. So when ever I buy a used guitar I run the fret rocker and if anything rocks, I first whack my fret setter once or twice over the high spot. 8 times out of ten it's not rocking after that. I check the whole fret again because 30% of the time it will raise that same fret in other places. I knock the new spot down with the fret setter and usually I'm done.

[@michaelmenkes8085]

The Fret Kisser tool from Stewmac saves so much time and thinking when fixing high spots. It won't file lower than the neighbors.

[@pipelineaudio]

I bought one. Looked like the greatest tool ever, but it seems like the file part isn't deep enough and wont hit the part that actually rocks with a real fret rocker

[@AnonymousUser66649]

@@pipelineaudio Or it might be that your fret rocker is not straight. They're not always perfect either, so don't blindy trust the tools. Could be the fret kisser aswell and if so, send it back and get a new one.

[@kenk7049]

@@pipelineaudio I've noticed this also as well as many others. I suspect it was made intentionally because you still need to finish off the fret with sandpaper to smooth and shine. It's still a good tool for non professionals like me.

[@pipelineaudio]

@@kenk7049 If it can't level the fret, I can't recrown it. I'll call StewMac tomorrow, maybe I really did just get a dud

[@TheChipMcDonald]

​@@pipelineaudio Try the next shorter width. I've seen some rockers that aren't as long as the Fret Kisser, and if it's resting on a high fret farther away it won't hit it (more than 3). Also won't work with a lot of relief or fall away.

[@senhorspock]

Great video: thanks for sharing that! About the fret rocker angle: Yep! Been there, done that...

[@Stratman6969]

I use a fret rocker but I have radiused the edges to remove the corners so the the edge isn't flat but a single point contact so you get round the problem you rightly mentioned.

[@ironmikezero]

Good video, Chris. It might be worth mentioning that should enough material be removed from a high fret (especially if using a Fret Kisser) a bit of spot re-crowning and polishing may be well advised, if one has the time & opportunity, of course.

[@ShawnBrockMusic]

The fret kisser has been a lifesaver for me since I bought it. I suppose it is expensive, but man I get into situations where I would do anything to make a fret buzz go away. I have been using it for a couple of months, and I don’t remember the price off the top of my head, which means it must have been well worth it to me lol. it and the music nomad crowning file are probably my favorite tools I own lol.

[@johnosborne3187]

Thanks Chris! I had mastered the fret rocker, or so I thought. I learned the first and last fret technique from you in a previous video, which completed my fret rocker training:) In fact, as I watch your videos, I see things you do and things in the background that I learned how to do or build from you. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Thanks John for the tip! I really appreciate it.

[@fugalibrana]

Oh man! Thanks so much for clarify lot of questions I had. 10/10. Take my subscription. Greetings from Uusimaa, Finland.

[@Sanemancured]

Tremendously useful. Thank you.

[@brunolevasseur]

Hi, nice video, thank you! Checking first and last frets level is a good thing to do.

[@shootsnscores-cja]

A reaffirming video for me. I was convinced that my last fret was a little high (and it was) and causing string buzz, but how to check it with my fret rocker. I ended up doing just what was demo'd in this video - riding the rocker along the last few frets and see if the end bumps into the last fret. I wasn't sure that was the ideal way to check it, but now I know that it was a method that works.

[@1tdillon]

Chris - Great video and great content as usual. Surprised you didn't address neck relief in conjunction with this process.

[@HighlineGuitars]

That's a separate issue that will require its own in-depth video.

[@donald-parker]

Good tips and clear instruction. I'm a bit surprised that you recommend leveling the whole neck to correct one low fret. Replacing one fret seems like a viable option that potentially increases the life of your whole neck. It's common for frets to develop dings under the strings (either too much wear if you tend to play in the same position all the time, or a fall where the string gets slammed into the fret). I guess fret replacement is a bit more intimidating than leveling, but sometimes it is a great option. Especially with zero frets.

[@budgetguitarist]

I don't want to speak for him, but for me it's rare to have a guitar where only one fret is off. For me, there's usually fret wear in three different spots on the neck - the first 4 frets, frets 5 through 10, and frets 12-14. Then again, I play all over the neck. For a beginner who only plays in first position but plays a LOT, I could see the sense in just replacing a couple of low frets. I don't have any zero fret guitars, but that does seem like a case where it'd make sense to replace just the zero fret.

[@donald-parker]

@@budgetguitarist I play pretty evenly all over the neck and I never have low spots or divots from natural wear. But I have had divots in frets when the guitar gets knocked over and the face of the neck hits something hard, and the fret below the string that took the brunt of the impact gets a big ding. One fret. One spot. I would never level all the frets to fix that.

[@GertvanderDoes]

If you have a complete stock pile of every fret size you could exchange one. Most people that watch KZbin too learn don't. That means leveling the entire board for one low point is the only option. Usually the lows aren't that big that it makes a difference.

[@carlyoung6561]

You always bring up great topics. It seems on any given three frets any one of the following conditions could cause rocking: 1 and 3 are the same height and 2 is high (what you would expect). Or 1 and 2 are the same height and 3 is low. Or 2 and 3 are the same height and 1 is low.

[@dalewoodring5887]

I LOVE your videos! Thank you for all the guidance and help you give. I'm East Coast, so I listen to your videos sped up. I probably shouldn't because your voice at normal speed is very soothing. ;o) Blessings on you.

[@gil123bonsai]

Always learning something new. Thanks!

[@useurhed]

Hugely beneficial knowledge AND excellent presentation, thank you so much.

[@CS_Murphy_R9]

Really glad to see you brought up the issue of the rocker tool having to be completely flat and not on a angle of any kind. This mistake got me when I was brand new to the fret rocker tool. I wasn't using the tool completely flat and was getting false results. I kind of wish they made it a little thicker so that there would be little to no chance of accidentally using the edge of the tool

[@404err0r]

Thanks for the video, very concise and helpful

[@MajorUpgrade]

I always love your videos. Thank you for sharing this important information! Very helpful! I admit, I have done more damage to some guitars by using the fret rocker wrong... I am glad to have it confirmed the that "presentation" is important... This can save me some time and money!

[@Jeremya74]

Great video..ive seen many of these threwout the years and ive never seen anyone explain it this way

[@jorgevenditi]

This channel is beautiful!Great video!

[@justinprobus959]

The fact that some people may not have fret wire laying around and if you’re used to leveling I think it’s a great idea, especially if you have more than few high spots I can do a board fairly quick then re-crown. No harm no foul or just use a smaller leveling block on that section with no pressure. Anyways, thanks bud.

[@jamesromanski8508]

Excellent presentation. Thank You.

[@lucadepaoli9215]

Very useful video …… I was doing that wrong ….. thank you 👍🏻

[@1xronx]

This is a very simple straightforward explanation. Thanks!

[@vitaliistep]

You can make your own Fret Kisser for free by sticking a small narrow strip of 300-400 grit sandpaper with a masking tape to the the middle of one side of your Fret Rocker and sticking 2-3 layers of the masking tape on the ends to prevent the rocker from scratching the outer frets and level the surface, so the sandpaper won't be sticking out too much.

[@HighlineGuitars]

[@mygt8a4re]

Excellent information, greatly appreciated! 🍻

[@nadennight]

Thou shalt count to three frets, no more, no less. Three shall be the number of frets thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Sorry, couldn't resist.

[@squirelova1815]

"May we have your Liver?"

[@tomlangron2532]

@@nadennight five is right out!

[@MiniShowProductions]

😂😂

[@laytonturpin864]

I had to delete my last post. It just f’n came to me!,

[@Jeremya74]

I don't understand..do I put the rocker over 4 frets?

[@SigSon319]

Great video. Thank you for doing this. I learned to do this the hard way and made all of the mistakes you mentioned. I had to teach myself by trial and error in th days before the internet!!!!!

[@zzzenguitar]

Excellent presentation. A very necessary tool, well explained. Thank you.

[@StealthParrot]

Great tips as always, thanks Chris.

[@danielmiller2886]

Instead of using a file, I use a radius block and thin strip of fine sandpaper. This functions like the stewmac fret kisser..

[@fuzzymuppet1990]

Yep, I did that my first time, created a low spot, and chased my tail all the way up the fretboard 😮 😅.

[@TrevorHelt]

Great information!

[@BlueberryStinkFinger62]

Very good luthier really like this channel only wish they were longer..👍👍

[@rafaelmagnani8289]

Great! Cheers from Brasil!

[@Shadowman-1960]

If the first or third fret is high or low then how can using them as a reference be accurate?

[@marxvino]

Hey Chris! As always, a great video! Question for you... when you level frets, do you always use a long sanding beam or it is also possible to use a metal radiused beam? and if so why and which one do you recommend to use? Thank you!!

[@diegooliveras1952]

great video as usual !

[@budgetguitarist]

Great video.

[@JeffreyBranco]

Outstanding!

[@jamescopeland5358]

Good information

[@christopherstorrier5560]

Strangely nobody mentions you must use the right scale length slotted flat edge to make sure the neck is exactly straight without strings before using a fret rocker...please do not file any frets until the neck is straight as a dye then use a rocker...this means straightening the neck by adjusting the truss rod...if used on a slightly uneven, front or back bowed neck you will have problems & re-fretting a guitar or bass is expensive...i would advise using a brass headed fret hammer to flatten slightly high frets, not all are seated perfect on most guitars or bass's...well certainly not Fenders...lol...i watched a guy on KZbin use a brass fret hammer to flatten slightly high frets, only had to dress a few frets afterwards to make them perfect...impressed

[@MikeJackal]

@@christopherstorrier5560 I came to the comment section to confirm this about the neck being straight before you start levelling so thank you for your comment.

[@rebluecrow]

Good advice. One question, should we first get a perfectly flat neck before doing that?

[@chriskrueger1865]

Yeah, because of the fingerboard radius you have to be extra careful the rocker sits perfectly flat as you slide it across the frets

[@peterb.559]

I always check the frets with the strings on. With the strings off, you can get back bow which can cause frets to seem high even though they're fine under tension.

[@HighlineGuitars]

I do that with older/vintage guitars, but with my new builds, I adjust the truss rod to level the neck when the strings are off.

[@peterb.559]

@@HighlineGuitars That's why the neck in the video looks so straight. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip!

[@Argentuza]

Stewmac's Fret Rocker is 3 mm thick. Wouldn't it be better if it were thicker, like the Fret Kisser?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. You just have to pay attention when using it.

[@iagobroxado]

Making it too thick may actually ruin it on identifying those small tall spots on frets

[@gtranimal]

Great Video! How about using the fret rocker while the guitar is strung? I've gotten the frets dead level, only to discover high spots when restrung and the relief set say .006 to .010. I've tried using it like this followed by the fret kisser. What's your thoughts on that?

[@nopenheimer]

The aluminum rockers that cost less truly don't work as well, even the more expensive, thicker, very accurately made ones. Aluminum simply doesn't click the same way. It's a surprising difference. I got very nicely machined and anodized aluminum rocker that cost significantly more than the generic ones but less than the steel ones... And ended up getting the steel one anyhow. It was simply too hard to feel very slightly high frets with it, while the steel makes a more pronounced click.

[@aardvark77]

Can there be some neck relief or does the neck need to be straight when testing for a high fret?

[@Argentuza]

Excellent question!

[@HighlineGuitars]

If you like relief, you should test for a high fret while the relief is present.

[@popsfereal]

My question is why do they not make these out of nylon or Delrin or something other than metal? I've seen people chop on their Frets like they're chopping vegetables on a cutting board...

[@michaelk7383]

l love my fretkisser. If you see it on sale (that does happen) get one!! ;)

[@hexaldecima6839]

Greetings Chris, I have a question regarding spot leveling and checking every fret is leveled. When checking frets, should I start at the last fret or the first fret near the nut? My thought was if I start at the last fret, I eliminate chasing high frets up the board, and have a slight fall-away. Many thanks for the amazing luthier videos.

[@rodrich1644]

Turns out all my frets are low. 🤣JK How important is it to make the neck straight? What about checking under load?

[@paintbox48]

Hi Chris, One thing you didn't mention is the danger of addressing a group of 3 frets in isolaton of other frets. For example if you examine a group of 3 frets and the rocker rocks, the cause may not be a high middle fret but a low fret to one side of the middle. If you lower the middle fret you then create a little ramp in that area, and as you said move the problem along the fretboard. It is therefore wise to check all frets before doing any corrective filing. A technique you and viewers may find interesting and useful is practiced by Sam Deeks on his KZbin channel using his "banana" tool to level frets with the strings still on. Not an actual banana!

[@HighlineGuitars]

With skill and experience, you won't get a ramp. If I polled a thousand professional luthiers, I'd be surprised if more than two or three would advocate Sam Deek's method. If you level the frets with the neck straight, you'll get exactly the same result once relief has been induced by either the truss rod or string tension.

[@paintbox48]

@@HighlineGuitars Hi Chris, just to confirm if you have experience you won't get a ramp, but for newcomers it's wise to check over a wider range of frets before filing any. Sam's method is a more subtle way of levelling frets, and I would bet most luthiers do prefer the straight forward traditional method. Along with using a fret rocker, I believe there's a place for both.

[@stephencarter8625]

Hi, thanks for the video. If you have time, could you please answer the three other questions below regarding whether or not the neck should be straight before checking or just as it is normally played with the strings removed, or indeed whether it can be done initially with the strings still on the guitar/bass - or maybe it doesn’t matter! Regards…

[@HighlineGuitars]

I always make sure the neck is straight when I check the frets. Of course, my guitars are brand new. With an older guitar, or one that is vintage, I like to level the frets with the neck either under string tension, or with the string tension simulated.

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

@@HighlineGuitars If you're levelling under tension, do you use an adjustable beam, with a tiny amount of curve in it to compensate for the neck relief?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@1man1guitarletsgo No. the frets have to be level in a straight line because the strings are in a straight line.

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

@@HighlineGuitars OK, so if I understand correctly, you'd have to adjust the truss rod while the neck's under tension, making it dead straight. Then level the frets. Then adjust the truss rod to achieve the correct relief. What's the advantage to doing this under tension? When I level and crown frets, I remove the strings, and use the truss rod to make sure the neck's straight.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@1man1guitarletsgo Actually, if you like your guitars to have some relief, you would level the fret while the neck is setup with the relief you desire. That way, the frets will be level relative to the strings which is necessary to eliminate string buzz and fretting out.

[@stevesmith5434]

I love my Fret Kisser!

[@Socializedbyantisocials]

Does the neck has to be straight or the distance covered by the rocker is so small it doesn’t matter?

[@pressleycaliforniacustoms9526]

Wise 🤘👍🎸

[@johnkirkpatrick1778]

When using a fret rocker, you need to be aware that if one of the outer frets (of the three being tested) is low, this would allow the rocker to 'rock', appearing (incorrectly) to show that the centre fret is high, at that point. This is a very real danger, which can result in much unnecessary fret filing: as you stated, this can cause the 'problem' to be incrementally moved along the neck. This failing can be minimised by moving the fret rocker one fret further along, which should indicate if the suspect fret actually is high (it will now be one of the 'outer' frets of that trio) or if one of the original 'outer' frets was low. I also find it hard to believe that by holding the fret rocker at an angle (as shown in the video) that the tool would rock: unless the rocker is warped, the edges would be just as straight as the flat edges! Surely you mean to warn against placing the fret rocker in any other position than parallel to the string path along the neck? If skewed away from the string path, the curvature of the fretboard would cause the tool to be rocked.

[@HighlineGuitars]

How can you find it hard to believe the angle can affect the test when I demonstrated it in the video?

[@jjcale2288]

@@HighlineGuitars your fret rocker is a bit warped. Therefore on the convex side it will rock and on the concave side it will not. Check it out. On the other hand your commenter is right, if the rocker is skewed on a radiused neck it will rock alright even if the frets are leveled.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@jjcale2288 Nope. Guess again.

[@jjcale2288]

@@HighlineGuitars it's not guessing, it's just obvious.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@jjcale2288 Still wrong. Strike two. Try one more time.

[@mikebozik]

I tried using a fret rocker for a few months, but ultimately found it frustrating. Mainly, because it only works 3 frets at a time and you end up chasing the "high" fret up and down the neck. I think it can be useful, but only in very specific circumstances. Regarding your explanation that to use the tool on the flat side, not on the edge... I don't understand why it would make a difference. Could you please explain further? When I use my notched straight edge, I always tilt it on its sharp 90% edge. It gives me the most accurate reading that way. Why is this different?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@mikebozik kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXPSpKadbsuXpposi=rjRC1ROddpHM8deP

[@mikebozik]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks, watched it and learned something!

[@charleshuguley9323]

I don't understand why tilting the fret rocker causes a clicking sound, falsely indicating a high fret. It seems that it wouldn't make a difference.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@charleshuguley9323 it happens because the rocker is very slightly warped. The edges are true in that they are precisely flat, but there’s a slight bow along the sides. I should have mentioned that in the video, but I forgot. It is quite common.

[@charleshuguley9323]

@@HighlineGuitars Thank-you!

[@dennisneo1608]

How can one misuse a fret rocker??????

[@HighlineGuitars]

To find out, watch the video and read the comments.

[@xiaokang8692]

Nice t-shirt

[@TimHenrion]

Question: Why wouldn't you replace a low fret instead of re-leveling the entire board? It would seem like a lot less time spent because you are recrowning a single fret instead of 22/23/24...

[@HighlineGuitars]

Replacing a fret takes much more time.

[@RyRyTheBassGuy]

@@HighlineGuitars And tools and having a myriad of different fret wire.

[@craigwarman88]

My goof was filing the fret down to level but polishing too much and made it low.

[@megarxidas17]

I assume the test guitar neck level before any work

[@HighlineGuitars]

You assume correctly.

[@jamesfriend481]

Instead of fixing a low fret by sanding all the other frets down can you remove that fret and replace it?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@jamesfriend481 Replacing a fret is far more time consuming than leveling the frets with a sanding beam. And once you replace a fret, guess what you have to do next? Level it with the other frets!

[@ThatFaceMelter94]

I brought my maple Strat neck back to a local luthier numerous times because of a disappointing fret level and crown job. He checked the frets in front of me 4 frets at a time and I asked him "Wouldn't it be better to do it 3 frets at a time? You'd want 1 fulcrum instead of 2 right?" His Response: "I've been doing this for 50 plus years."

[@UTubeHandlesSuck]

One has to wonder how many bad fret jobs he's done in 50 plus years then. Or more to the point, how many WEREN'T garbage.

[@MrDiscomfortzone]

@@ThatFaceMelter94 So he's been doing it wrong for 50 years? I feel bad for his customers.

[@kenbouchard834]

@@ThatFaceMelter94 Wow, and I thought this would have just been common sense.

[@pharmerdavid1432]

That was the catalyst for me learning to do my own setup, frets, nut, everything - especially now with informative youtube videos at channels like this! Amp techs irk me too, so I took a class to build a tweed Princeton type amp (improved), and started learning about electronics, which is more complicated than I had thought. But after building an amp, I can do most of the basic maintenance, and minor trouble-shooting. I have one good tech, but he takes a couple months and is $150 an hour, so usually the bill is $250-350. Whenever I buy a vintage amp I take it to him first, before using it too much, like the 1970 non-reverb Princeton I bought recently, with original C10N, which is the best low volume amp I've ever played though, perfect for at home, and it has more headroom than the Princeton Reverb which has more gain along with the reverb. Doing your own work is rewarding, and most importantly you know it's exactly how you want it to be, without having some tech who tears through it ASAP do a shoddy job.

[@nopenheimer]

All my gear was stolen.I had very little money at the time so I picked up a mostly almost mint better model Ibanez for almost nothing because the owner had played Am pentatonic riffs - ONLY Am pentatonic riffs - until those frets were the most worn I've ever personally seen, and the fretboard was deeply scalloped in just the common bend spots. It was so cheap and so unplayable I didn't hesitate at all to try a full refret. It took a bit of learning and a did end up with a little less fret left for future touch-up than ideal due to chasing a buzz, but I learned how and have a great playing guitar... And I can just refret it again when needed, knowing it will be easier and faster.

[@onlyusernameleft2]

The lever, which is what the fret rocker is essentially, has been around since the stone age. If someone can't grasp how to use one then... man, idk a nice way to say it.

[@sundarmann6167]

Hello Chris. The only myth that baffles me is, why is the fret board filed to a radius? What if I made a guitar with the fret board, flat! Will it be just as playable like the one with a radius? Thank you 🙏🏼

[@charlesjoynes9497]

Flat fretboards are harder to play, especially for chords. The curve has 2 benefits. Think about doing a barr chord. It's definitely easier to barr across multiple strings with a little curve of the barring finger. Think about it this way. If you wrapped your hand around a round pipe, it's easy for your finger(s) to make full and fairly even contact. Now imagine trying to do the same with a flat 3" board. 2nd benefit, is that it helps a little with moving from string to string.

[@jjcale2288]

@@charlesjoynes9497 and now think about a classic guitar.

[@BigEdWo]

@@jjcale2288 again you are right. hahaha

[@peterstephen1562]

The 'fret rocker' is an ill conceived contraption . The rocker has no function that is not performed better by a straight edge.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Isn't the fret rocker just 4 different length straight edges in one tool?

[@Jgreen2794]

I had a guitar with several high frets. I used the Fret Kisser to level them. Then, I had to re-crown them. I have several crowning files, but none really left a good hemispherical crown. I ended up with low frets. I will just live with them, since a refret is out of the question in this case. Fret work is a skill that is beyond a lot of us, me included.

[@slodziak222222]

What kind of wood is this neck?

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@slodziak222222 laminated oak.

[@slodziak222222]

I think that it was white mahogany or exoticwood

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Some people say the StewMac fret rockers are no high precision enough and there's another tool called FretGuru which is a high precision fret rocker.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Bollocks.

[@nopenheimer]

I returned the fret Kisser I bought. The grit is too coarse for my taste, but much more importantly, the grit surfaces were all recessed a little from the reference surfaces. Obvious high spots (via rocker) were not even touched... In fact not a single spot was touched on a guitar I had a number of small high spots to do by hand. Diner grit would allow less aggressive cleanup,, and so more nearly co-planar surfaces. Break-in instructions would also allow better tolerances... Perhaps they are accounting for the inevitable smattering of high particles that are stacked on others and which get knocked off with any use on steel etc. (At work - unrelated field - we break in new diamond abrasives when precision or good finish is required.) It's easy enough to do by hand if it's just your own guitars.

[@nopenheimer]

I don't see any equivalent product from fret guru, just fret levelling beams and crowning & end files.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@nopenheimer Your experience with the Fret Kisser is the exact opposite from what I and many others have experienced. I guess that is to be expected with this or any product humans can buy.

[@jamescarter1088]

You didn't mention evaluating the straightness of the neck/fretboard first. I cant teach you to suck eggs, ive only worked on a couple of my own guitars I'm no luthier. I have used a fret rocker to identify very high spots to take them down, followed by marking all frets with a sharpie and using a levelling beam to blend in perfect with the nut out.

[@jamescarter1088]

Removing as little material as possible, then recrowning and polishing.

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@jamescarter1088 This was not meant to be a comprehensive fret leveling video. It was only meant to describe a couple of things that people do wrong when using the fret rocker.

[@travelingman9763]

That neck really needs to be tightened before leveling. The neck is often not stable for many reasons.

[@RsSquier51]

A fret kisser will solve the problem without creating a new issue.

[@pharmerdavid1432]

I saw a video where a tech used a high quality level to prove most fret rockers are NOT even true...?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I checked mine against a precision level and it is dead true.

[@ALANRMOREY]

B.S. it's a simple tool how the hell can't it be used usefully ?

[@nowaistedspace4946]

Fret rockers are too thick. My opinion. Just cut up a stainless-steel ruler into multiple lengths and save your $$$. I make my own tools. I'm, cheap. lol

[@1man1guitarletsgo]

I have a cheap "string action ruler", which is about the size of a credit card. Its edges are straight, and it works well enough as a fret rocker.

[@johngonzales8224]

who doesn't know the 3-fret rule. that's the only way it works. I think you are misreading your audience.

[@williamking7420]

Seriously? You advise using a fret leveling beam to level all the frets in order to address one low fret? It would be easier to replace the one low fret in that case and level that single fret to match the rest of the frets. I only offer this solution because I've done it before. Sorry but in this instance you're advise in addressing a single fret this way is way too labor intensive and unnecessary!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Seriously. Think it through. How hard/time consuming is it to level with a beam compared to pulling out a fret, cleaning the slot and the area around it, cutting a new fret to size, radiusing the fret to match the fretboard radius, pressing in the new fret, and leveling the new fret to match the others. I'll take running a beam over the existing fret for a few seconds instead of replacing a fret everytime.

[@jjcale2288]

Unless you find that specific customer who does not want to even hear about replacing a fret.

[@creamwobbly]

If you're okay with replacing one fret, cool. It's never just one fret though. If you think it is, you're wrong. It's _never_ just one fret.

[@brazilgrass]

No, I'm not. Thanks, anyway.

[@johnosborne3187]

Thanks Chris! I had mastered the fret rocker, or so I thought. I learned the first and last fret technique from you in a previous video, which completed my fret rocker training:) In fact, as I watch your videos, I see things you do and things in the background that I learned how to do or build from you. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!