Dead-Blow Machinist Hammer - With Tungsten Carbide

[@lninga]

A deadfall hammer filled with dead inserts. The irony here is beautiful.

[@pendarischneider]

Agree, wonderful irony. But, those inserts are only broken, not dead. I can see them cutting their way out with each swing of the hammer.

[@aaronbock6406]

@@pendarischneider I thought the same thing. Is there a concern at all with this happening or will the scratches be so minor it won’t matter.

[@pendarischneider]

Hi@@aaronbock6406 it might be a nice follow up in a year of so to see how much iron dust has built up. Otherwise, beyond the worrying image, I suspect the hammer will work fine in the family workshop generations from now. 😃

[@nerddub]

@@aaronbock6406 zero rigidity in the theoretical setup inside the hammer, i'd say the inserts have no chance at all of ever cutting their way out of the steel head

[@jc13781]

Woohoo welcome back. Finger looks a lot better too. Glad to see some hack saw action on my Saturday morning as well! 🎉

[@_RsX_]

Oh yeah, you gotta give him that hawk saw and split that thang 😁

[@rudysaldivar4228]

@@_RsX_ I see what you did there.

[@ego73]

I like the content that goes "from foundry to finished part". More, please.

[@RoryWatkins]

Congratulations for being back in the workshop made my day seeing this pop up did a double take when I saw how recent it was posted!🎉

[@richardmeyer418]

Thanks for this. Personally, I like boiled linseed oil on wood. Up to you, though, it's your tool, you made it, you use it, you live with it.

[@johngibson3837]

Aye raw linseed is great and good for hand's

[@artisanmakes]

I added some at the end. You can see me rub it off

[@steamfan7147]

Nice design, using old inserts for mass was a brilliant idea. One tip I can share when drilling. Only use two drill sizes, your pilot bit and finish size drill, all the other steps in between just wear out drills. The trick is when you size the pilot drill, pick one that is the same or very slightly smaller than the width of the finish drills web(the little chisel tip in the center). What happens is the finish drill will track without chatter which keeps your finished diameter closer to size. The torque requirement is very close to the same, but can be less since the process greatly reduces the drills tendency to grab. Lathe size really doesn't matter, I use the same method with my Sherline as my 24 x 120 Lansing.

[@artisanmakes]

Usually yeah but once you start swapping to these larger 1 inch demming bits on these smaller lathes you need to make the pilot larger than you would want to

[@aksela6912]

Great to have you back

[@twiggy2cents2]

My thought on them burnt handle. I agree that it’s not ideal but also as a machinist hammer with rust dirt and cutting oil, it looks like it already has a head start on hand burnishing the finish. My copper hammer I acquired has a wood handle that’s darker than that from years of dirty oily hands.

[@therealemmpunkt]

You can get oak black with iron oxide. Dissolve steel wool in vinegar and paint the wood with it. Works with some other woods too, but oak gets very black...

[@ImolaS3]

great to see you back in the workshop! hope the finger doesn't give you any problems. A video of how you got to this point would be interesting - apprenticeship? self taught? etc.

[@Gadsdentreadlightly]

Hit that burnt handle with a wire brush to take away the excess carbon and provide texture / contrast. Then give it some wood oil / finish. The transformation will be surprising. I use the burnt finish often, and that complete blackness is what you get when you take it a little too far, in my opinion. The wire brush when it is brushed along the grain will wear away at the softer growth rings (providing texture) and will remove the black carbon from the softer growth rings more quickly.

[@artisanmakes]

You can see me do that in one of the shots. I just did a bad job of capturing it on camera

[@kbye5323]

That was an awesome use of the broken inserts! Nice work!

[@randomtechnician]

Nice idea with the broken inserts, so i don't break a lot of inserts anymore, instead i produce a lot of nice death blow inserts ;)

[@davidmcinnes317]

I used fishing shot as my ballast weight in the hammer I made a few years ago.I had a lot of waste shot left over from fishing trips,so it cost me nothing and is small enough to be able to move about inside the head.Or you could try using old ball bearings.

[@Kami8705]

I wonder if the inserts aren't working as well because they aren't smooth so they don't move against each other as well. Sand or shot almost act more like a liquid in larger quantities because they move around each other easily, while these won't do that until you use it enough for them all to crumble. As for the handle, I agree on the burn finish. Maybe sand it back and go with a darker stain? Beyond that, nice work as always.

[@thedodger7030]

I was looking at those old inserts and thinking the would be more functional if they were broken int smaller pieces. Not sure how difficult that would be though...

[@roanv]

​@@thedodger7030They are relatively easy to just smash appart They're really hard, but that also makes them brittle I've had to smash a few to liberate them from their holders 😅

[@artisanmakes]

I didn’t say that it wasn’t working. It’s acting as a dead blow hammer should. It’s just not that big a step up that I was expecting

[@homemadetools]

Nice take on a machinist's hammer. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

[@thomaspluss4784]

I made mine in about 30 minutes: 1" brass T, screwed in a suitable round wooden handle, machined 2 end plugs (1 hardwood, 1 softer wood) and filled the T-piece space to about 2/3 with small lead balls (sinkers). It works a treat on the mill drawbar and to set parts in the vice.

[@courier11sec]

The return of the hands! So glad to see you're healing well. Watching the evolution of your channel has been a privilege. 😺

[@Ccoolbeans101]

Man, cutting the threads on that white Delrin plastic looks soooo satisfying! Glad you're back to machining :D

[@joshclark44]

Never realized that about tungsten carbide but I guess it does have tungsten in it. It looked like you could have used more though. It might need to move, but it probably only needs to shift a tiny bit for it to transfer back through again. With too much space I'm betting the delay is too long and you can't hit as often and you have to wait for them to fall against the bottom again. You can also just melt lead into a solid cast or into droplets pouring into water too so you could have tried mixing that in. I agree that the burnt finish looks nice but it's just over done. Everyone does it now and with the black oxide it doesn't look as good. Still interesting video though and glad to have you back man!

[@TalRohan]

well done keeping the brass temp so it melted but didnt turn into a big white smoke bomb, I am glad its a dead blow cause if you use oak on any other hammer its horrible for kicking back into your hand. It is however a nice workable design and easy enough for people starting out to make using a lathe....great idea Thanks for sharing..glad the hand is fixing too

[@OmnieStar]

Also you gotta sand the char back a little bit so you can get the wood grain back!

[@bradthayer6782]

Love the reuse of the carbide!

[@kumaclimber]

I used to work in a foundry sand casting brass, bronze, aluminum, and aluminum bronze. We used old beer bottles as flux to prevent oxidation and porosity. Give it a try, might help. Just gotta skim it off before you pour. Worst case scenario you gotta try again

[@briansavage932]

Its always a bit nerve-racking getting back to work after an injury! I'm glad to see you're back at it! Also glad to see the hacksaw 😉

[@robertwalker7457]

Nice work, a bit of linseed oil won't hurt the handle.

[@b92555]

Fun Video. I do wonder how long it will take for the carbide to wear through. Probably last a long time if not used frequently every day. The fine cuttings made on the inside surfaces should help buffer a bit and slow the wear. Aluminum on the hammer face while lighter could be annealed to be soft and much easier to source. I loved the idea of casting the hammer face.

[@artisanmakes]

I’d be surprised if it wore though within my lifetime

[@keithammleter3824]

It won't matter anyway. Dust or lumps, it's still a moving mass.

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic work, dude! It turned out amazing! Really well done! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@mootan2]

nice job . good to see the hacksaw back

[@ElTelBaby]

@ 2:10 ROFL ... U love your Hacksaw... Come on Sponsors;... It is about time U gifted;... gave this gut at least a basic powered hand saw or even a basic FREE standing Band saw... Man he sure deserves one;... in exchange for a honest review...

[@sinadaneshkhah8537]

Hello it’s nice project.and thanks for sharing your videos with us. Imaked one very biutifull with brass water T pipe (3€)😁and also ileted some balls from some damaged ball bearings and it’s works amazing. In my opinion the broken carbide that you leted in must alitl play inside because also I tested and the results are really different. Best regards sina

[@MikaTheAboveAverageDog]

Welcome back, I think it's acceptable enough for this week to be more scheduled release makes rather than artisanal makes; cheers!

[@rjung_ch]

Yes, great you are back, and a nice hammer as well. Cheers 👍💪✌

[@ianday38]

I'm glad you didn't make things too easy for yourself by using an appropriate saw to cut the oak 🤣 Good result though 👍

[@rolfbjorn9937]

My trick for a good looking charred wood finish is to sand it smooth(final smooth), burn it, sand it again, slight bit of linseed oil, burn it, sand again and final oil. may do localised char /sand/oil/char/sand touch ups. It removes the excess char and gets a nice smooth uniform(as in more uniform/more intentional) result.

[@artisanmakes]

You can see me add oil in one of the last shots. Didn’t do a great job of capturing it on camera though

[@merkyworks]

Glad your back

[@Dogfather66227]

It would be interesting to know whether for a given weight of hammer the idea of “dead blow” is more about the feel of the tool as the hammer strikes the workpiece or if there is significantly different energy transfer to the work. Years ago we made effective deadfall hammers by casting a lead head around a steel handle. When they got buggered up we’d melt them down and re-pour them. Unfortunately a thing like that doesn’t mesh as well with the term “Artisan” but they worked well. Very glad to see the hand seems to be recovering.

[@briansavage932]

You can brush back some of that finish with steel wool and then apply some boiled linseed oil or other finish. Great job!

[@artisanmakes]

You can see me do that in one shot. I just didn’t a bad job of capturing it on camera

[@MyLilMule]

Lead shot and oil makes a good filling for a deadblow.

[@samwallin9694]

might i suggest getting a shinto file rasp if you plan on working with wood. they're fenominal for material removal and shaping

[@mike9500]

hey, welcome back to the shop!!!! :) don't you have a band saw??? hahahahaa I'm "impressed".... ;)

[@MASI_forging]

Great work as always 😍😍

[@CptKurlan]

Rustic finish is the best finish ! ^^

[@jeremylastname873]

I have several pounds of mercury and I think it’s the bee’s knees as far as dead-blow weight goes. I have been scheming upon a design for a while now. I like your cap approach and I think I will make a few for myself and friends. I just want to make sure that nobody ever gets a nasty surprise in years to come, so I want to make them very secure and mark them as to what is inside.

[@artisanmakes]

Never occurred to me that mercury would be an option. Kicking myself that I didn’t think of it

[@jeremylastname873]

@@artisanmakes Tungsten carbide is denser than mercury, but mercury is liquid, so the air space is readily prescribed and it flows rather than tumbling past other random pieces. 🤓 That being said, the carbide is an elegant solution.

[@katelights]

can you break the inserts with a hammer? Wonder if ti would be better with smaller pieces, you could fit more in the same space.

[@davidmcclare443]

hi if you replace the brass with lead it will deform slightly on impact and also reduce the bounce

[@connahjones8178]

I do think you could incorporate your woodworking with the metal working, i would enjoy that alot 😊

[@blazingmatty123]

Welcome back

[@Celcius1]

Have you thought of trying to build a bandsaw for those moments you need to cut stock? Be awesome to see the approach you take with an XL project like that

[@artisanmakes]

No really. I’d have no where to put it

[@anthonyrich1592]

What's the low-frequency sound I'm hearing in your lathe? Is there a shot bearing, or maybe a toothed belt with a missing tooth?

[@DH-xw6jp]

It's good to see your hack sawing hand wasn't out of commission permanently.

[@Cybernetic_Systems]

Awesome to see you back in the workshop! How is the finger healing?

[@artisanmakes]

Thankyou. It’s still a bit stiff but I’ve got back most of my movement

[@simonc8689]

I think the old coatings on motor coils are soluble in mild acid, like vinegar. Worth a run for next time.

[@ED_T]

I've made a hammer with a similar construction over 5 years ago. If you don't mind I'd like to share what I did to attach the wooden handle inside the hollow squished tube. I made the top of the handle a snug parallel fit into the tube and glued it in with epoxy, then cross drilled and mounted a large-ish roll pin. It has seen a lot of hammering in the years since I built it and it's still on there rock solid! The hammer can be seen in several of my videos 😉

[@alan-sk7ky]

Better glue these days would be foaming polyurethane of the Gorilla variety. Rehandled two hammers and an axe so far. It really assists the scutches expanding the wood in the head hole 😉

[@clasdauskas]

Hoarding broken inserts, and then finding a use for them - brilliant :) You could have just cut up the copper coils and let the furnace take care of the plastic and glue for you ...

[@chrisoakey9841]

love your work. i suggest wraping your handle in leather for a nice accent and comfort.

[@ethanshannon1840]

I have so missed seeing that hack saw.

[@joyjeetmohanty4321]

You can use butter spray while welding so that there will be no burnt marks

[@tas32engineering]

Found buying a machine helped to finish a part. Vice with pipe Jaws & a power hydraulic bandsaw would make your projects more comfortable. Original left thumb injury from missing hammer & not knowing about bolt breakers with rusty nuts. Wear a glove on injured hand will help with warmth & repair. Have been investigating the parting tool & the need for good demension packing & parting close to chuck face. Real artwork with plenty of squareness needed. Have a hammer from Blackwood with leather on 1 end. You might use more technical approach to videoing to aid in recovery. Made 1 also.

[@pauljcampbell2997]

The burnt handle honestly doesn't look too bad. It might grow on you. Take care mate!

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

You don't need to strip all the coating off the motor windings, you just need to cut the windings into small enough chunks (with a reciprocating saw or your hack saw) to fit in the Crucible and the furnace will do the rest for you, you just need to add some flux to the Crucible to help separate the slag from the copper before casting...

[@artisanmakes]

I think I’d need a slightly larger crucible but you make a good point

[@MarkWarbington]

I can't help but wonder what those inserts are going to do to the inside of the hammer head over time.

[@artisanmakes]

Not a whole lot probably

[@gordonfreeman2715]

band saw or chop saw investment

[@EitriBrokkr]

Congratulations on being the first person in the history of KZbin to make a machinist hammer with the proper shaped handle. There is nothing more infuriatingly annoying than people making "precision" hammers with round handles. Human beings have figured this out tens of thousands of years ago. You can't align the striking surface if your hand can't tell your brain which way the head of the tool is pointing.

[@platin2148]

Man in the meantime i bought a 350 mm bandsaw and it's so nice

[@belatoth3763]

These inserts can be recycled, they give rather a high price for it. I feeel things are normal while you do the hacksaw thing again 😂

[@TechGorilla1987]

We have tungsten carbide wedding rings. They're great for sussing out the older, silver quarters that you get back in change. The silver quarters just ring differently. The rings are hard on any surface they touch though. They ARE cutting inserts after all.

[@douglasharley2440]

if you break your finger or something, i am not sure they will be able to cut your ring off, and you might need to get it amputated...just a thought.

[@paulmalinoski5951]

​@douglasharley2440 I think you can break them off... not 100% on it tho

[@douglasharley2440]

@@paulmalinoski5951 yeah, *no.* ...tungsten is literally one of the hardest materials in the world, it doesn't break, and that's why they make industrial cutters and boring heads out of it. it could be ground off with a diamond cutting wheel, but it's gonna take a long time and will generate some evil dust. if someone breaks a finger with a tungsten ring on it, i think amputation will be more likely than removal of the ring before more severe injury due to blood flow restriction is caused..

[@deckname5794]

​@@douglasharley2440Weird how he has all these broken tungsten carbide inserts. It may not like to bend but it can definitely be broken. It's not easy to cut it off on a finger, but you can squeeze it until it breaks.

[@douglasharley2440]

@deckname5794 yes, I should have qualified that as "not under extreme forces." lol, if dude doesn't mind exposing his extremities to those forces, then no problem! 🤣 breaking the tip of a carbide insert isn't difficult on a machine lathe, but breaking a carbide ring is something altogether different. my point remains...ain't ni medical personnel gonna be able to remove a carbide ring in less time than major tissue damage from blood flow restriction would occur.

[@omegaflameZ]

If you want the handle black but are not sold by the burnt look, just grab some india ink (or just a good black ink) from an art store and give that a go. A couple coats and a bit of oil and wax and it should be nice and dark. Do check on an offcut if the look is your thing though.

[@Chris-pb3se]

If you filled the rest of that space with tungsten dust, right up to the top, it’ll function as a dead blow. The dust adds weight but still allows the movement of the weight necessary. HK proved it with the bolt in their MP7. The steel “bounced” unless it was larger than they wanted. When hollow and filled with tungsten dust it could be designed much smaller while retaining enough mass and almost zero bounce.

[@artisanmakes]

It certainly acts as a dead blow now, but that’s a very interesting fact that I wasn’t aware of.

[@Chris-pb3se]

@@artisanmakes oh, I’m sure it does. Using the old inserts is brilliant, it’s what reminded me of what I heard about HK and made me go check it. I’m going to start saving my broken inserts so I can make one too, I’m jealous

[@Blackjack556]

Can you make a video about drill bit sharpening

[@artisanmakes]

I am not one to be teaching that. I make usable drills but they’re pretty basic and not that great looking

[@deckname5794]

Interesting how he has all that time to use the hacksaw but has no time to grind the weld somewhat even and smooth.

[@artisanmakes]

You must be very slow with a hacksaw

[@deckname5794]

@@artisanmakes I am. At least slower than my bandsaw. I mean it's your hammer, but for me personally I don't like to see the welds. Okay maybe if I was lucky and got a really pretty one. Anyways I'm just glad that you are back and building stuff. I definitely learned a thing or two while watching you.

[@OmnieStar]

I thought you sprayed "OFF!" the mosquito repellent on the stone to sharpen the iron. LOLOL

[@Bob_Adkins]

The smell of burning wood reminds me of my power sawing and sanding failures over the years.

[@whitey129]

Put boiled lindseed oil on the burnt finish. Entirely changes the look and feel.

[@artisanmakes]

That’s what I did, you can kinda see the oil being wiped off at the end. I’m still 50-50 on keeping the finish. Cheers

[@revtmyers1]

Just a general note if anyone makes one. You can get lead fishing weights relatively cheap, and they work. I'm not sure what's available globally, but we can what's called split shots.

[@wrongtown]

I picked up a bunch of lead shot that had been destined for the hull of a yacht; apparently the owner had to move (with yacht) before he could do the job. My intent was to make dead blow woodworkers mallets but I procrastibated for so long on the exact design that I've yet to make one. Now that I'm into a bit of metalworking it's a bit more likely to find use besides occasionally smelting it into small weights for various projects.

[@KNfLrPn]

Wonder if it would have been a good idea to break up the inserts into smaller pieces.

[@alan-sk7ky]

Have you ever tried to deliberately break T carbide inserts? hold the in a vice and strike and mess up the jaws, and bits every where. His inserts are small as well making holding harder too. It might have been better grind the pointies off the tips so the could 'flow' inside the cosh a little more freely though.

[@edcofu]

I've done some burnt finish on wood with great results using a method i've developed, it works great in small pieces but takes some time, it fully covers in a deep black and keeps the grain texture, i've made many hard wood smoking pipes that lasts a decade with no signs of degradation from weather and handling, here how it goes: -1: Coat the wood in a thin layer of paraffin wax with a lit candle dropping wax over the piece; -2: Heat the piece so the wax is uniformly absorbed trough the surface and apply more wax as needed; -3: Hold the piece above a candle flame, not too close to burn the wood just enough to see soot forming on the surface; -4: Move the piece back and forwards trough the flame depositing soot trough the surface, wax melts and absorb the soot impregnating the wood with it; -5: As the wood heats the paraffin will start to evaporate and burn, let it cool and use a paper towel to clean the surface while it is still warm; -6: Repeat step 4 until most of the wax is evaporated and the wood start showing signs of burning. This makes a lasting carbon black finish and if careful no changes in size. I can make a video if you are interested!

[@Slemi]

Best way to test it is on car tyre. If it bounces it is not the best.

[@crazyfeller5704]

👍👍 I don’t you usually make comments, you do really nice work! However, if you want an easier and cleaner method to clean up welds, pick up some cheap carbide burrs. 😊

[@artisanmakes]

I need to pick some up, but my ‘not a dremel’ can’t handle them

[@alexrains1893]

Farmers Union Iced Coffee! Mighty South Aussie 🦾💪

[@dancooperish]

I've always wondered which part of Australia he was in. That pretty much confirms S.A.

[@artisanmakes]

NSW. But my family are from SA. I will die on the hill that this is the king of iced coffee.

[@TheMonthlyJack]

@@artisanmakes Northern Territory iced coffee beats it, but Famers Union you can get everywhere.

[@filopat67]

I think that fine sand would have been better choice for dampening material than those inserts. Even though inserts have more mass than sand, sand would have much more individual particles colliding with each other and dispersing the spring force of the hammer head.

[@artisanmakes]

Maybe but I can’t say for certain. I think I put more of a focus on having the added mass that I get from carbide. Is it better? Can’t say for certain

[@bando404]

Wouldn’t the plastic and glue just burn off when you melt the copper? Also, why don’t you get a saw?

[@artisanmakes]

It’s more of getting it out of the rotor so I can melt it. I don’t have a crucible large enough to hold the rotor

[@Imaginationeer]

The wood doesn't look like oak at all... anyway, good job!

[@Vikingwerk]

Hammer looks good! On the topic of your welds; in a couple shots, I could see zinc fume residue on the inside of the pipe you welded. Galvanized pipe is horrible to weld because of this, it off-gasses and contaminates your weld, and makes bubbles and makes it *really* hard to get a decent looking weld. Anything galvanized I need to weld, I soak in vinegar for a few days first, to get it out of the way. I imagine someone else will berate you about the zinc smoke for health and safety reasons, but honestly, everyone knows about that already, not everyone knows how much it messes up a weld. 👍🏻

[@vx-iidu]

I've welded lots of galvanized steel tubing. It doesn't really do much in my experience. I just wear a mask to avoid breathing fumes and don't worry about it any more than that.

[@Vikingwerk]

@@vx-iidu for me welding on galvanized is like welding through paint, it’s worth the time to remove it. Do you use stick or MIG? I assume stick would tolerate it more, but i’m guessing.

[@vx-iidu]

​@@Vikingwerk I've always used gasless MIG and nothing else (since it's outdoors). The only time I've had problems with bubbles in welds is when I stupidly tried to weld through about 1mm of concrete that got stuck on the metal LOL

[@Vikingwerk]

@@vx-iidu you must have a way more powerful welder than me! I’ll admit, I’m only running a 110 gas shielded MIG, so that probably contributes; but when I saw his welding struggle, it looked awful familiar, which is why I mentioned it.

[@artisanmakes]

Yeah I never really have the luxury of being able to dump it in a container of vinegar for a few days. The little time I have in the shop I need to be kinda flat out. I tried to get rid of most of it as best I could and the stuff left on the inside, it is what it is.

[@havabeer1]

how the hell do we start a go fund me to at the very least buy you a recipro saw with a metal blade..... those hacksaw clips gave me PTSD from my fitter apprenticeship. Hell i'd even shout you a bunch of blades and like 3 jugs of cutting fluid

[@Mrpaint06]

Dumb question here, but why don't you chuck round stock in the lathe and then part it or use a hacksaw with blade on backwards to cut round stock?

[@Trainwreck1123]

Because it only takes him 15 swipes with the hacksaw to cut through any thickness of stock

[@jc13781]

The hack saw is the main character of this channel and must make an appearance at all cost

[@courier11sec]

His dedication to the humble hacksaw can never be taken from him.

[@callumross406]

Lathe isn’t sounding too good mate. Is that the new one?

[@artisanmakes]

its always sounded like this

[@Spoteddy]

I see you have an oopsie on your finger. And you have glued it up. How do you deal with it? Do you just wait for the glue to fall off, or do you just rip it off at some point?

[@jc13781]

He made a video about it a couple of weeks ago. Was pretty bad and he is lucky he didn’t lose his finger.

[@seelenschlucht]

Wouldn't you also need many differently weighted hammers to adjust for the gravitational changes in the moon phases? 😵‍💫 But remember to divide the ratio by 1 and invert it if you are in australia. 🤭

[@zorinho20]

I make that burnt finish on all my handles,altough in this case with black head ,original was better.

[@JonasDecker-z3x]

Might be time to get a cheap tig welder . That flux core isn't treating you good . Most smaller welds like on the hammer can be done without filler and are easy to learn

[@artisanmakes]

I have a tig handle for the welder but it’s scratch start only. I’ve only used it for sheet metal welding. Outside that my results are….. best not seen by the internet

[@JonasDecker-z3x]

@@artisanmakes scratch start sucks yeah .

[@unperrier]

The content needs to be fluid to some extent, and broken carbide inserts just aren't. If you can revisit it, please use small spheres of dense and malleable material like lead.

[@artisanmakes]

I’m going to stick with this. It does make a difference, just not the mind blowing step up that someone told me it was. It does do the dead blow action that I was chasing so to me that’s job done

[@unperrier]

@@artisanmakes/videos maybe you could try his hammer and see if there's a difference.

[@MarcusLindblomSonestedt78]

"get it cut off" ... me: "right, hacksaw time" .. sure enough... this man needs a band saw, so bad... :D

[@yellowdoor3768]

If you make a full video of hand sawing through that stock Ill chip in to buy you a power bandsaw or anything faster.

[@markcnc]

Nice. Resend handle, stain black

[@TechGorilla1987]

It's funny how when you have a plaster (bandage) on your pointing digit, the human body forgets how to use that hand right.

[@waldobean7534]

Any chance you are a SAFFA?

[@TechGorilla1987]

@@waldobean7534 South African? Negative. American born and raised.

[@brucemansfield2501]

It sounds like you don't have your wire speed set right. You're getting a machine gun sound when you're welding, and it should sound more like bacon frying.

[@artisanmakes]

Probably, my welding knowledge is awful

[@imyaaniggua]

Tungsten Carbide aint always denser than lead because of the ammount of carbon inside

[@65cj55]

The big question is, do Dead Blow Hammers defy Newtons 3rd Law ?

[@robertlong9029]

Practice your welding skills neatness matters when you’re making tools to show off. Men love shiny things lol

[@artisanmakes]

It’s a hammer. It’s not a exactly a show tool. Me and welding never seem to click and I’ve always been upfront with that