Installing A DRO on my New Lathe (Digital Readout)

[@ThantiK]

I was hoping it was a bandsaw. Time to retire the hacksaw...

[@jhbonarius]

No, he'll never buy a bandsaw. Don't you get it yet? It's the running gag of this channel...

[@thomaskletzl6493]

@@jhbonariushe could make twice the videos with the bandsaw

[@y2ksw1]

Noooooo 😊. The hacksaw is his brand and I personally find it very relaxing. In the meantime I cut materials by hand (also using hand shears and such), I am able to reflect about the project and I am not bothered by excessive noise. Also, it's a formidable way to get in touch with other workers, if you are happening to work in a facility or factory. People love handwork!

[@coolfrost6]

​@@jhbonariusAt this point I am convinced that he is a man of principle, and will probably end up owning a 6axis cnc before a bandsaw

[@minigpracing3068]

Hacksaw builds character, I support the hacksaw!!! 😊

[@MegaLostOne]

To change the cross slide to read in diameter instead of radius go into settings and find the Y axis and change it's scaling to 10 microns vs 5 microns if you have 5 micron scales on there.

[@martinchabot_FR]

"1/2" key is the one to use to switch between radius and diameter. All no name DRO have the same issue

[@MegaLostOne]

@@martinchabot_FR half works for finding center on a milling machine. Changing the scale to 10 microns half's the travel of the cross slide so you read diameter.

[@MegaLostOne]

@@martinchabot_FR changing the scale to 10 microns in settings is also a one time setting so the DRO stays in diameter mode, that's all it does if the DRO has a lathe mode. The scales are the same and the sensor still only reads the scale the same.

[@OmeMachining]

​@@martinchabot_FRreally not. 1/2 is center finding for use on a mill. 😅

[@martinchabot_FR]

@@OmeMachining it is, read the manual. I have the same sino knockout on my lathe. In lathe mode, you setup axis either in R (0) or D(1) in the setup. Then press 1/2 to switch axis setup in R to read in D. There is a little icon on the third display when switching. In mill mode it's for halving display for center finding.

[@jasonnora372]

I think you meant "coming in from the right and machining to the left

[@artisanmakes]

Rats

[@wizrom3046]

He's Australian, because of the upside down issues in the southern hemisphere, you have to reverse right and left. For proof, you may notice we drive on the left side of the road too.

[@ronodowd5724]

Water goes down the drain differently then in Canada lol

[@cousindave1]

They also have their winter in the summer ;)

[@phrozenwun]

2:27 Must be a down under thing...

[@marcus_w0]

I haven't seen the full Video yet. But I've seen the premise. I have learned and earned the qualification as a lathe operator in the 90ties... the late 90ties, given it was 1998. I have learned on a manual Lathe and a manual mill WITHOUT ANY DRO. As you're operating the manual lathe or mill - your first move is ALWAYS away from the workpiece. You can feel the backlash in the gear. Once you approach your workpiece, you set your zero on a scratch-pass in the direction, you're gonna work in. And this is your reading. You never move out or backwards in a cut - you only go in the direction you need to go. you could go backwards plenty of times, but never if the reversed direction is a cut. If the direction reverses, you need a new zero. How is this any complicated or new these days? You kids are snowflakes. Those machines aren't any bad or worse than modern ones. I could turn you a H5 press passing on a lathe 90 years old. Those were hyper precise machines. But you gotta know them.

[@DH-xw6jp]

Are you complaining that someone is using technology to do better work? Who's the _real_ snowflake? I hope you don't answer me with a computer, after all, a pen and paper works just fine.

[@marcus_w0]

I need a computer to even see your answer. But I don''t need a Computer to substract a 1/10mm on a part in my lathe. Because I know my lathe. Even 1 /100 is accomplishable. But Its work. @@DH-xw6jp

[@jhbonarius]

Dro's are a-ma-zing. I just started using a milling table with dro and it's like I can do the milling work in half the time. I also feel so much more secure about my decision when starting the cut, because I can rely on the position. Makes the work so much more fun.

[@gregc1775]

Hi Watch all your videos Live NSW Just a hobbyist as I have retired from the motor industry Bought my lathe and mill from Hare and Forbes Have a question. How do you turn the beeps on and off on the DRO??? Regards Greg

[@bigmotter001]

I added these exact same kits to my lathe and mill about 2 years ago! They have performed perfecly with no problems what so ever. I paid slightly less back in 2021 but you will love the difference they will make in machining parts! Thanks for posting and take care!

[@Dave.Wilson]

I fitted the same DRO to my mill a while ago, the scales were too long, but I found that they can be shortened to fit properly. you just have to be a bit careful when taking the glass scale out to cut it, apart from that it's fairly easy really. By the way, I'm nearly finished upgrading the motor on my mill to a 3ph, 3hp motor, following your lead, seeing your video inspired me to get on and do it. Thanks, keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing. :)

[@ironhead65]

Thank you for this, I have nearly the same set up and while I’ve been distracted with other things, I still have to figure out how to resolve each of the same problems on the cross slide that you just did. This video was invaluable to me and thank you for posting it! I’m also glad you pointed out that the glass scale was above the gib adjustment screws. to me that means I just have to go and replace my screws as they have thumb tabs on them. If I change them into an Allen style, then I can get in underneath the glass scale with a key and be fine.

[@wizrom3046]

Great project! 👍 I was going to suggest maybe it wont read radius because it is expecting the radius to be the X axis, but then you said you tried swapping the axes so that's probably not it, unless I misunderstood. The DRO designers would have expected X to be the cross slide and have the radius on X.

[@jimsvideos7201]

15.5mm is pretty close to 5/8", if that helps.

[@michaelc.b.ashley16]

Sorry to suggest some changes after all your work, but I can strongly recommend the SINO KA500 1um digital glass scales, at least for the cross-slide. 1um (2um in diameter) is very helpful, and the KA500 has a thinner body and readhead than the usual scales so it doesn't use up so much space. Also, in my experience mounting the scales to the left side of the cross-slide is better since you can then move the tailstock further to the left, which I often need to do. You can mount the KA500 90 degrees from the way you have it to reduce its impact on space between the spindle and the cross-slide. Magnetic scales can easily have 1um resolution, but beware the accuracy. If you look at the datasheets for the readheads you see that there are periodic errors that reduce the absolute accuracy considerably. I don't have the numbers with me. Anyway, great channel! And if you have a need for a power hacksaw as a donation, get in touch.

[@shadwellsong]

yeah lets get this guy a power hack saw!!! I was thinking the same

[@jhareng]

Bet he has no travel left on the tailstock ram with that lot in the way. Lost 7mm on mine and your right 5 micron are pretty useless for even threading think it was of the order inaccuracy/repetition 0.11mm. 1 micron now after the 5 micron packed up 4 years back can now get repetition within 0.03mm which still isnt fantastic but liveable. Far better than Quick Change toolpost repetition.

[@GeorgeAlex-j6k]

I have the same lathe as this guy and installed my DRO slide to the left of the carriage but realised it was useless as it clashed with the chuck jaws when working close to the chuck.

[@Zt3v3]

I want to add a DRO to my Clausing 8520 mill, I've been putting off making a decision though. This has inspired me.

[@emilgabor88]

You can’t do the X and Y the way you did . Because the dro has also a Diameter mod. But the diameter mod works just on the “X” axis on ToAuto dro . I Have also a couples of those . They changed the the internals it may be a little different now DRO China ToAuto Radius to Diameter lathe, direct reading mode, digital readout kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKC0aoWefKujrqs

[@artisanmakes]

Neither of the axis seem to be able tp double in lathe mode. I said i flipped the leads to check that and for whatever reason the radius and diameter setting seems to be ignored in lathe mode. I checked this morning and I am at a bit of a loss. I just going to stick with how I have it now and I can work around the few settings that are slightly different with it in mill mode

[@coreoocoreoo1059]

I'm not a lathe guy but I would think that you can't set Y to diameter mode is because X is supposed to be part radius/diameter and Y is supposed to be length (designated as Z on all DROs in lathes at my work). Have you treid using X as part diameter and Y as length?

[@OmnieStar]

Nice job! Didn't know DRO's had Anti-lock Breaks "ABS" ! SO cool! lol jkjk

[@arielleandrist]

Don't ever replace the hacksaw.. 😝

[@TheMoody876]

A milling machine without a dro is just a glorified drill press

[@TheRadioShop]

I bought the 3-axis version last year for my mill. Works pretty good. Thanks for sharing.

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

For your next Shop Upgrade Project, will you PLEASE buy or make a bandsaw? Even if it's a small Hand-Held model... PLEASE... Watching you cut large blocks of metal with a hacksaw is Agonizingly Painful...

[@tas32engineering]

The micrometer dials on a lathe need a good oiling. Looks like your after finer increment. Nothing better than a measure twice micrometer dial. DRO are Christmas tree decorations, have been around for 50yrs. It's all about how fast you can do the job. Without hurting yourself. 😅

[@Narwaro]

X and Z are normally the axis designations on a lathe. So your X is correct and your DRO only has Y which would normally be Z. So its actually correct if I understood your explanation right.

[@Caughtitoutdoors]

Glass scales are just as easy to cut as magnetic scales. Just score the glass with a diamond burr or cut off wheel in a dremel and Bob's your Auntie!

[@y2ksw1]

Magnetic scales might attract small iron dust and falsify the readout by a tiny bit. Optical readouts on the other hand may falsify the readout by getting dirty or oily. A combination of both would be able to detect a problem of this kind. When one of them mismatches, they need cleaning.

[@jackdawg4579]

Timely video, I have a DRO kit sitting on the shelf for my lathe I need to install. The reason I need it is because my lathe has imperial screws with a dodgy brothers metric conversion on the dials, Apparently the chinese think 1 thousands of an inch is equal to 2.5 hundreds of a mm.... so the reading on the dial bears no resemblance to actual metric values the more you turn it. So not only do I have the dodgy distance per turn the same as you do, but the values incorrect anyway.

[@Chazaxl]

Got the same unit. Skipped through the video. Normally X is the diameter / radius when we do lathes. Z (or in this case Y) is the distance from the spindle. Does anyone know how to do the tooling. My book says 'CALL' button but like yours mine says 'CAL'. Blondihacks has the same unit (named precision matthews) but that has the CALL button. Would love to be able to use the tooling offsets.

[@titter3648]

On my lathe the dial markings did not even match the tread pitch of the screw on the crosslide... it had one less number mark on the dial than the treadpitch was per revolution. So a DRO was such and upgrade.

[@OmeMachining]

Actually does a glass scale require good mounting accuracy. A magnetic on the other hand isn't that critical.... But it all depends on how long you want it to last ☺️. For a hobbyist 'OK' is good enough ☺️

[@hedning003]

when i munted the dro on my lathe i made an exention and mounted it behind the crosslide,so it's not in the way at all,i made a longer bracket for the scale itself and a shorter for the sensor,screw'd the longer bracket to the bottom of the slide,and the shorter to the carriage itself,so the entire thing is hanging out on the rear of the lathe- was worried about how this affected the accuracy,but i made the brackets very sturdy so it works great,also read the manual thorogly-i bet that there is a setting for switching from radius to diameter and vice verse-on mine i have to hold down one button for like 5 secounds

[@agentcovert]

Many people have " cut " the cheapo glass scales..take them apart, score the glass with a scribe and snap it..standard glass cutter works too..as they aren't made of tempered glass..

[@artisanmakes]

I personally haven't seem it done but I can't image that it would be too difficult to do that

[@agentcovert]

@@artisanmakes a diamond wheel on a rotary tool is probably the best way..just cut straight thru the aluminum housing and glass at once..as the glass is glued in the aluminum and would need you to cut the aluminum housing off to get to the glass scale..doubtful there's a dedicated video on the subject but I've seen it done in many DRO install videos just as part of the video..I'd go with the diamond wheel method myself..cheers..

[@wizrom3046]

Ill second the diamond wheel on the Dremel, just make sure to set up a water drip so it is constatly wet and cold. Otherwise glass tends to crack from thermal issues.

[@Stefan_Van_pellicom]

Nope, just chop them off with the miter saw with an aluminium blade. That’s how I did it. Some pics here : kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioGUeZKIfdl2gZY

[@martinfillola733]

Great install, very detailed.

[@minigpracing3068]

Especially with a small mill, the DRO was freedom to larger cuts. I've used the bolt hole circle function to cut circles in things, circles of like 4 inch diameter on my micro mill to get up to half a rotation. The center function, depth scale, just everything freed up my brain from the hard thinking to make things. I've used it with CAD to plot complex curves based on plunging a mill at the desired coordinate. If I had a Lathe, a DRO would be one if the first things I'd add, even if it didn't really make better parts.

[@pulidoggy]

Hi, and thanks for your useful video! Just a question (I'm an absolute turning beginner...) So, most of the time I keep the compound cross-slide perfectly aligned to Z axis, and use its handle for small Z movements, finding it more precise and smooth than the Z handwheel, but doing so I would defeat the Z reading, right? So it looks like when in DRO mode I should refrain from using the cross slide Z displacement, is it so? Thank you!

[@lesmaybury793]

I agree with the comnents on x/y orientation. L/R for the x axis is universal in most other situation, even when reading graphs. If I had a DRO on my lathe, I would definately have the carriage as the x axis.

[@KW-ei3pi]

Could you tell me please, when the DRO is in ABS mode and you press the UP arrow key, does it change to INC mode then SDM 1, SDM 2, etc., or does this happen when you press the DOWN arrow key? I have two DRO's and one of them functions backwards, Thank you

[@paradiselost9946]

11:00. be glad you didnt get the AL336? have a quick look at the tailstock on them and see if you can see what the issue is ;) its common to most of the 12x36's, not just H&F... notice the US grizzly 4003 has a "normal" one. adding a DRO only makes it worse... sigh. i got a plan... modify the thing to a ram/shaper rather than a quill. regards cartesians... i sort of mentally picture the lathe vertical... with the spindle being C axis on Z. therefore saddle is Z. cross slide is X. a milling attachment would give you Y. each to their own, its your shop and its manual, so its no issue. only stay standard if you plan on CNC conversions? FFS, the things just a fancy ruler! isnt that why we get it? stop messing with rulers and verniers and things in the way? and we come back full circle to tailstocks again. sigh... :)

[@davidcureton9258]

Hi, I’m just reestablishing my lathe and installing a dro that I brought 10years ago. It is the same class of dro that you have. Just wanted to reach out regarding diameters mode, the 1/2 button in lathe mode should result in the display on x axis being doubled to give you diameter. Is can be switched back and forth during use without changing dro setup. The resolution of the scales should be set to their actual resolution. I have worked out all the features of the dro including the tool offset library which is a bit counter intuitive until it clicks. I am going to make up a document that shows the calculation path from scales to display so I know which settingings impact what. Naturally you are cool to set your machine up how you want but I’m happy to share my experience with these import dro. They all seem to run the same software, and the manual is not terribly useful. (P.s. I took my DrO apart just this weekend and was very impressed with the quality inside. Inexpensive but not junk)

[@eugene4154]

Magnetic DRO's I am told can be complete messed ùp when useing a magnet base with clock gauge, not tried it myself but apparently this powerful magnet base destroys magnetism in the DRO strip???

[@bob55today]

Note: Those who receive the ToAuto DRO Screen with two buttons that are labeled differently. The CA button is the same as the AC button and the INV button is the same as the ARC button. As of March 2024 the Operation Manual has not been updated to show this.

[@lloydcollins4706]

Hey mate, thinking of getting into machining but I don't want to annoy my neighbours. Any tips on noise cancelling or dampening for a workshop/garage. Thanks, and awesome video!

[@Lone-Wolf87]

Looks great. DROs are very useful. I have a small lathe too. I installed a DRO too and now I can get way way way better parts to a very precise dimension. Well done in this new upgrade to your lathe. 👍👍👍

[@TMCmakes]

diameter mode on my ToAuto is only available as X i believe. i went through the same thing recently. give it a quick test. i just drew arrows next to X0 and Y0 when i flipped them.

[@Horus9339]

Well done Sir no doubt it will be useful in future jobs, it was also an excellent instructional video. Have a great weekend.

[@subuktageenfarooqi5712]

When are you upgrading to SEIG SX4 Mill.

[@artisanmakes]

Probably not. I wouldn't buy a column mill any bigger than this. If I were to ever get a bigger mill I'd get a proper knee mill

[@subuktageenfarooqi5712]

@@artisanmakes True, in my country a CNC converted Bridgeport is $2000. So much more rigidity, but bulky & loud.

[@sgtbrown4273]

Im sold! As i get older, my eyes get drunker ..... thats my excuse anyways. 😂

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I love my lathe dro .. I find it a must have for good accurate parts

[@mike9500]

i don;t know how you do the hacksaw thing. i tried lastnight on a piece of meduim level cold rolled steel and after 10 min. i was whooped and only 1.2" in on a 2.5" round stock. so i got out the chop saw and went at it.

[@martinchabot_FR]

To properly setup the DRO for radius/diameter readout: Enter setup (. at startup) Select Lathe mode Set R or D: axis to switch between R/D must be 0, other to 1 Exit the setup. Now by default the axis is in radius, if you want to switch to diameter, press 1/2, this will show a small sign in the upper left readout. This is the same key that is used to halve an axis readout in mill mode. Being able to switch to radius useful for some operation like grooving.

[@artisanmakes]

18:54 I put the settings I was using in the video

[@bheckel1]

hacksaw action still kills me...horizontal/vertical band saw is the fastest way to remove metal in the shop...at this point it is just comical.

[@graealex]

There is a huge amount of rumble in your voice overs. You can remove it with a filter that cuts everything off below 100 Hz or so.

[@eugene4154]

The backlash can be minimised by either slitting the nut a few threads from the end to halfway through the threaded hole then remount and fit grub screw to table above the slit and adjust till its firm, some machines have these in place already, backlash is a pain in the proverbial

[@TheDuerden]

I came to these comments with just one thing to say - why don't you have a bandsaw - and then saw that this was the running theme of your comments lol....

[@y4nnickschmitt]

The fact that this DRO is for a mill and features an X and a Y axis rather than a Z, would drive me nuts.

[@tnekkc]

I could not figure out how to get my new DRO on the lathe to read out in diameter [made to be utilized on either a mill or lathe], so I got my wife to read the manual and figure it out.

[@Reddgie512]

Im a simple man, I see an Artisan post-- I click

[@christopherharsh8837]

Love yourself a little man. get a bandsaw!

[@DodgyBrothersEngineering]

You must be rich if you can afford to buy metal from Bunnings.

[@Festivejelly]

I prefer the magnetic scales, they are a lot easier to install and smaller.

[@y2ksw1]

You are absolutely right about the settings. If you ever sell the lathe or get someone else working who has different preferences, you flip cables 😊

[@y2ksw1]

You also might ask an electrician to add a selector switch

[@ScrapYardDog64]

You must have arms like Popeye.

[@ScheunenTecCNC]

Nice Video, i put a DRO to my Old Weiler Hand Lever Lathe and my Old Deckel FP1 Milling Machine and i don`t regret it :-) continued success

[@bobdickweed]

A Cat ? "Updated my comment" ok you got a DRO But do you have a Cat or want one ?

[@ethanhulsey9797]

For the love of god please get a porta band and put it on a stand

[@julias-shed]

Best upgrade I did on my myford 😀 I have my axis swapped compared to you maybe that’s why the diameter mode doesn’t work? but as long as it works for you 😀

[@MrNoysip]

Pls invest in an portable bandsaw

[@ISupportTheCurr3ntThing]

They call him hacksaw artisan

[@therealemmpunkt]

Had the same "Mill" issue with my DRO. Looks different but might be the same hardware.....

[@keithmonarch447]

I just read, a comment. It pertains (assuming you purchased a decent DRO system) it's your system settings. Each reader X - Y axis is set properly. Putting one your Lathe, it will make your life easier. When I finally buy a better Mill, it will be included. Good luck with your installation.

[@thedasroach7743]

Please don't ever buy a powered metal saw. Watching you cut through heaps of metal by hand is this Chnl's canon.

[@TradeWorks_Construction]

Did you mean you’ll usually be coming in from the right and machining toward the left? i.e. machining toward the chuck so feed pressures are pushed in toward the spindle … Or is there some nuanced point of view that I’m missing that makes machining from the left to the right the norm?

[@adhawk5632]

Ive just done the same install on a little optimum TU 2004, but with the ToAuto LCD DRO. The cross slide can only get diameter/radius function on the X axis, mine is the same. Sometimes, with the different glass scale resellers, the plugs can be wired up differently. They usually have a diagram to check. Great vid👍👌🇦🇺

[@VanTekConsulting]

Thanks for the video, it inspired me to get my DRO working properly. I had a similar issue to yours regarding the radius/diameter. I found that my scales had different resolutions. The way they were setup and installed (by the supplier) constantly caused my reading and cuts with the cross slide to be in error. Once I got that sorted, I was able to reconcile the DRO to an indicator within a couple of tenths. Thanks again.

[@Kineth1]

2:26 I knew he had a mirror shop.

[@alflud]

You've made hack-sawing your ... wait a minute! Doh!

[@stevengunter3457]

u sir really need a mini band saw.

[@CatNolara]

Why not mount the cross slide DRO the other way, with the scale on the carriage and the reading head on the slide? Also on my machine I mounted the scale on the front, but that brings some other issues. Like I have just some digital caliper style scales and the one for the cross slide already looks pretty bad from hot chips hitting it. Also hard to read when it's under the work piece most of the time, but on the other hand I still keep access to the locking lever, gib adjustment and have space for the tailstock.

[@sjorsdewit9394]

why would it go in to milling mode whrn you have a 2 axis dro?? i just font get it.... another great viseo thanks for the effort!!

[@artisanmakes]

That's the default setting it comes with. I only have 2 scales on my mill, for the table, and I just use the included quill dro for precise z travel

[@hampopper3150]

I just use a dial indicator but with my equipment its not worth dumping money on a dro as I'm working tors a better machine that might be wroth getting a dro for it. But I work every day now and its impossible getting around to it but the extra money I'm earning is needed to get the raw material to make it in the first place.

[@gary851]

dont cut stock by hand

[@randomginger11]

100% thought this was a This Old Tony video by the thumbnail

[@jonathonbisset5328]

More hacksaw pls

[@shadwellsong]

thank you so much!

[@raymondhorvatin1050]

thanks for sharing

[@jc13781]

Hacksaw gang here! Thank you for representing us in this video with such fantastic cuts. Please never buy one of those devilish band saws or jig saws!

[@johndecoteau629]

somebody need to buy this guy a bandsaw! holy crap I have seen him cut some insane crap with a hacksaw

[@konstantinosvas7130]

Fantastic fitting and very analytical video, thank you very much..

[@glenncpw]

You may find, as I have (many years ago) that an extension for the tail stock ( which I admit does wobble) but gives a bit more travel over the carriage bed for drilling. The one big downfall of the rear mounted scale.

[@bobholmberg7217]

The etchings on the glass scale won't be 5 microns, they're much larger. Through ingenious measurement techniques they arrive at 5 micron measurement resolution.

[@bheckel1]

i installed the 3 axis on my lathe a few months ago. Tailstock DRO is a game changer. I couldn't get it in dia mode either. I am going to try the 10 micron trick.

[@Mike40M]

A good tutorial. Fitted a DRO to my same looking lathe 5 years ago. I used magnetic scales as they are a bit smaller. Magnetic scales can be easily cut to length. Also fitted a 3-axis DRO to my old RF30 mill. Makes things much easier.

[@darkobul1]

You should cobsider using magnetic tape 1/5umum for at least X axis. I just sticked one on my saddle. What I can see is only small amount of deviation even if it is a tape.

[@bosanaz2010]

When working with soft Plastics and stuff like that,put them in the freezer...its helps a f in lot

[@jackdoff4427]

PLEASE BUY A BANSAW

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very nice work sir

[@emeltea33]

5 microns!? That's smaller than the average RBC!

[@fuzzy1dk]

13:29 if you mounted the scale with the opening pointing down and the read head either in the middle opening or behind the bed, you wouldn't need the cover and also lose less for the tailstock. It would stick up a bit but I think the compound it tall enough to swing and clear it

[@jimurrata6785]

I see an extended tailstock spindle as a near future project on your channel....

[@seamusmcardle]

What program do you use for the 3D renderings ?

[@artisanmakes]

Solidworks built in renderer usually

[@00honeybadger]

the first 10 seconds are exactly the type of humor I like