1977 Camaro Z28 Part 81: Pro Forged steering linkage

[@blah9664]

that front end is looking great. I love what your doing with this car erik. I can't wait to see how that rear end works out for you.

[@asicerik]

Thanks James! At least part of the car looks good.

[@transammusclemachine9386]

Hey Erik, I believe I have the same Pro Forged idler arm in your linkage kit that came with my kit. I just opened the kit 2 days ago but purchased it about 2 years ago. I only measured it with a ruler (I still need to buy a caliper measuring tool) and it seems to be even smaller than the one Hotchkis recommends to use with their sway bar so that the two items do not hit each other. So I think you'll be good!

[@asicerik]

Thanks! Let's hope so

[@indyme2]

Dang! Another list? I was about ready to go for a ride. Lol. Looking good!

[@asicerik]

Oh, there will be many lists from here on out! :) Thanks

[@TheOpenAirGarage]

It is really starting to take shape!!

[@DriveShaftDrew]

nice to see a new list that means progress in action

[@asicerik]

Indeed! Thanks Drew.

[@samsgarage2856]

Looks pretty nice. I will look at my steering linkage when I get home this weekend to make sure everything is mounted the same.

[@asicerik]

Thanks Sam!

[@ducksniffernz]

the nut that stripped are called simmonds nuts they are oval until they and threaded on so they lock. when you get the replacement you can put it on a bolt or stud first so it starts a bit easier then when it's in a awkward place.

[@asicerik]

Thanks for the info. It is odd though that 3 out of 4 were round on the bottom. Just that one was too oval. I will try that though, thanks.

[@AngeloC49]

Crap that nut really did a number on that stud !! Step by step brother 😉👍🏻👍🏻🇨🇦🇨🇦

[@asicerik]

Sure did. Thanks!

[@jevchance]

Bummer on that stud. Hope Wilwood takes care of you. I'm terrible at properly bagging everything and separating. That's gonna bite me in the ass sometime soon. Looking good man!

[@asicerik]

Yeah, they did. Just waiting for the parts to arrive. It is funny, yesterday I had to pull some stuff out from under the dash. I was meticulous in bagging that stuff. Haha. Thanks!

[@bulletnova7637]

Looks great! Those bolts on the lower control arms needs a thick flat washer on the bolt head side. OEM does not have it, but its wiser! It gives better clamping force, using a locking nut and a flat washer on the opposite end is wise also. When that bolt is tight it locks on the steel collar the bolt goes through and only allows the bushing to move smoothing the movement of A arm, giving better ride.

[@asicerik]

Ok. Yeah, the kit did not come with those washers either. The other side has nyloc nuts, but I can't remember if there was a washer there or not.

[@bulletnova7637]

The factory didn't build them with them, that is something that experienced mechanics, suspension specialists, always do to improve things. I have been doing it myself for probably 25-30 years. It does make a difference in ride quality! I would put a washer on both sides.

[@TheEZGZ]

Progress is progress. Bummer on the new part quality control. Nice to be putting things back on.

[@asicerik]

Yup. Yeah, I have been burned twice. The first stripped bolt was my fault.

[@dwaynewhitaker7577]

looks good buddy keep the updates coming

[@asicerik]

Thanks Dwayne.

[@Swilling]

I know that feeling of heaps of things to do, but waiting on one thing before you can actually get started.

[@asicerik]

Yeah, that stinks. EVERYTHING on this car takes longer than I think though, so I probably won't run out of things to do :)

[@jefflindsey9589]

Erik, you mentioned spot welding brackets on the new rear-end and sending back. Is this per their recommendations or for your piece of mind? Sorry for the dumb question. Lol

[@asicerik]

No, that is a good question Jeff. Three reasons for me. 1: I have never done any structural welding, and I don't want a weak weld, or warp my axle tubes. 2: There is a back brace that goes through the area where the brackets are. It requires some precise cutting of the back brace to make it fit around the brackets, so it needs to go on after the brackets. So, I would need to weld that big piece on myself too (it spans about 1/2 the rear end). 3: They can powdercoat/paint it when it is all done. They have an awesome red candy looking color called display red. That can't be done until all the welding is done. They said this process is pretty typical. Lots of people prefer to leave the welding to them.

[@jefflindsey9589]

Makes perfect sense Erik. Can't wait to see it.

[@carolinamanjr1385]

I soak my bolts& nuts in distilled vinegar for a few days to get the rust off. There is a way to get weight on the engine compartment is use free weights or bags of sand,cement. I think a sbc weighs in at 750lbs but I ain't sure.

[@asicerik]

Yeah, I might do that too on the bolts. It is pretty easy to sandblast them though with the cabinet. I don't have anything that weighs that much lying around, and I don't want to buy a bunch of stuff I don't need either. I think it will be fine.

[@bulletnova7637]

I would call the manufacturer to maybe get a replacement on the tie rod collar, those threads need to be even. That collar is used for front end alignment, most of the time about half of those threads are used to get the toe-in setup correctly. But the tie rod may need the threads chased, the black paint have them clogged up enough to cause your problem. Or, might just be you need to run a tap through the collar also. Sometimes new suspension parts that are painted don't mate real well until the thread are cleaned up some. I had to do it to the parts on my Nova's front end quite a bit and they were all painted also. So, it may be just be the paint has them too tight. Just trying to help you find a solution Erik!

[@asicerik]

I called Summit today, and they are sending out new collars. The problem with chasing the threads is that they are 11/16-18 LH. There is no set that has that, so I would need to buy just that one tap. If the new one does not work, I will have to go that route.

[@bulletnova7637]

Well actually those collars are both, one end is LH thread and the opposite end is RH threads. That's so that they can turn them so they don't have to pop the tie rod end loose to adjust the toe-in. Do you have a small wire brush that will fit inside the collar. Sometimes gun cleaning kits will have wire brush to clean shotgun barrels. I found a small wire brush at harbor freight that would fit a 1/2 inch bore. I just brushed the inside of my collars and used the wire brush on my bench grinder to clean the threads on the inner and outer tie rods.

[@bulletnova7637]

Don't feel lonely, most everybody that rebuilds a suspension and steering has this same problem. I would prefer they leave them bare and just shoot a coat of oil on them before shipping them out.

[@asicerik]

That is why I bought the tap and die kit. Those threads I just don't have. I should go check and see if I can get some wire brushes or something for things like this.

[@bulletnova7637]

That's a good idea! I don't use it much, but its real handy when needed!

[@kevinbrown3150]

More progress! Realistically, how much time do you think you have left until your project is complete and you're doing burnouts? ;)

[@asicerik]

Man, I really don't know. If I had to guess I would say 3 more years. I am going to have to get a job soon, and my productivity will be back down to 2-4 days a month instead per per week.

[@kevinbrown3150]

+asicerik Keep cranking out the hours while you have the free time. I bet it will be less than 3 years even if you get a job soon.

[@IIRockstarrxX]

Invest in a tap and die set and go over the threads on your tie rods. It should sort our your issue. I've had several bolts shear on my miata and I've had to drill out the bolt and re tap them

[@asicerik]

I did buy a set, but it does not go that large. Those are big threads.

[@motorola12slvr]

PROFORGED STEERING LINKAGE GOOD? I FEEL LIKE GETTING SOME BETTER THAN MOOG?

[@drslinky3219]

You have the bolts that holds the idler bracket to the frame are in backwards. The lock nuts go on the bracket side.

[@asicerik]

Really? Does it matter, or is it just cosmetic? Thanks!

[@drslinky3219]

Yes really. The lock nuts go on the bracket side

[@asicerik]

Thanks a lot. I never would have caught that

[@512kjt]

Looking good, mang!

[@asicerik]

Mang? Is that some new term I need to learn? Or a fat finger? :)

[@512kjt]

I learn it from Tony Montana, mang! Jeers ago!

[@64impalaSSRealMechanic315]

Very cool how close are you to paint a bodyy??

[@asicerik]

A long way my friend. A long way. I have all the body work to do, engine, trans. At least a functional interior too.

[@64impalaSSRealMechanic315]

At least it rolls lol chassis you done very good

[@ColdStartAuto]

Hey looking pretty good lol.

[@asicerik]

Thank you

[@TwinSOLid438]

Gotta make me a list now

[@asicerik]

They are pretty helpful. They can be daunting though!

[@jamesfreddys]

Do you have a burr in the coupler?

[@asicerik]

I looked in there, and I could not see anything. Everything looked fine. Maybe the threads were not as deep down there, but it was hard to tell.

[@bulletnova7637]

From my experience VHT is the best, Duplicolor next, Krylon and Rustoleum are last in rattle can paints.

[@asicerik]

You must be rubbing off on me, because I ordered the VHT last night :) I got the epoxy satin black. It does not need primer.

[@bulletnova7637]

I love VHT, I think its one of the best paints available in a rattle can.

[@KingsDisasterGarage]

Did you try and run a tap through it?

[@asicerik]

I don't have one big enough. I will need to get a bigger tap/die set, or just that one size. Mine only goes up to 1/2" and I don't know what those are.

[@bobcraighead5080]

Blast those bolts in your new cabinet

[@asicerik]

On the idler arm? Yeah, I might. They have just a small amount of rust though. We'll see when I start sanding them.

[@dbfcrell8300]

I'm sad to announce that ProForged was recently purchased by the Holley Group in 2021. After talking to Holley, I can tell that they are NOT going to be good for the ProForged brand. They already removed the ProForged web site which shows they want to change things, and not for the better. I've seen this way too many times to not even waste time "hoping" Holley rises to the occasion. THEY WON'T! They will vanilla-ize the brand and look for ways to cut costs. Gees' I hope I'm wrong, but the type of acquisition that occurred says it all. You can no longer trust what anyone from ProForged or from Holley says. Another hidden gem ruined IMO!

[@asicerik]

Well that stinks!

[@CountrySideClub]

I don't think I want u to drive it with all of those nice parts lol

[@asicerik]

Yeah, don't wanna get it dirty :)

[@bobcraighead5080]

Too bad about the problems, you would think for what you paid ......

[@asicerik]

Yeah, it's pretty irritating. BUT, as long as I don't have these problems on the expensive stuff, I can live with it.