Assault on El Capitan - the Most Controversial Climb in Yosemite History

The Story of the Second Ascent of the Most Controversial Climb in Yosemite History. In June and July of 2011 42-year-old Ammon and Kait, his 22 year old girlfriend, set out to climb the unrepeated route Wings of Steel on Yosemite’s El Capitan. The route had sat unclimbed since the first ascent in 1983. Shrouded in controversy and with a bounty waiting for the second ascent team, there seemed to be no better person to climb it than Ammon. But was Kait the best choice for a partner? With over 70 El Cap climbs by 60 different routes Ammon is clearly a seasoned climber. Kait is relatively green to the big walls, having only three El Cap ascents on her resume and all of them with Ammon by her side. This climb would be a test of their ability and their relationship. The story of Wings of Steel is as legendary as Ammon himself. The first ascent team spent 39 days climbing the controversial route. The result - death threats, physical assaults and a slander campaign that polarised the Yosemite climbing community for over 30 years. Retold in interviews with the first ascent team, their detractors, climbing historians and personal interviews with both Ammon and Kait, combined with footage shot during their historic ascent, the truth about the most controversial climb in Yosemite history is told.
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[@chris_devlog]

The way Steve reminisces about the poor treatment of Richard and Mark with a smile on his face says a lot about him

[@tomdiets5079]

Dudes a prick

[@tomdiets5079]

Steve is an embarrassment to the sport of climbing.

[@richardjensen7186]

RIP, Ammon. I miss you, my friend!

[@robertbeger4275]

I'm totally on the side of Richard and Mark in this one. I've experienced the dark side of cliquishness in the Valley. I've had gear stolen, shit in front of my tent, and being shunned, thank goodness never a fight. Mainly one summer in late 70s after several other good seasons with no problems. That summer, all my partners ended up being mostly Squamish guys and Austrian and German. I was told, being a climber from the PNW, that I didn't belong there. Steve Grossman who I normally respect was a real dick in this story. Isn't it interesting how Ammon (and Kate) get so much credit for doing such a gusty difficult climb and Richard and Mark were just evil noobs. Lets get this straight, first ascents will almost inevitably take way longer than any repeats so the fact that they took so long is BS as a criticism. Grossman, it seems, would only be satisfied either with their deaths or them begging for his personal forgiveness and kiss his ***.

[@GWG-ib9cv]

Yeah, twats climb mountains too

[@Sackfullofbadgers]

Yeah Grossman sounds like a real loser. I really haven't heard of this happening in any other climbing area. I really think it reflects badly on the people involved and you can guess who they are. Big props to Gabe McNeely,. what a dude.

[@ellingwood1]

Agreed, that Grossman is a piece of work.

[@D_Syno]

When is Steve Grossman going to apologize?

[@michaelthomson8065]

Sad,but true.I understand respect for traditional styles in certain areas,but if your vision is true,just do it.

[@andyphilpotts4636]

Steve comes over as an arrogant elitist, who feels he owns it all, not a good look

[@iamkendraofficial2174]

Steve, you never would have climbed this…

[@TheArmyKnifeNut]

Steve Grossman (as portrayed in this documentary) is the distillation of everything wrong with the climbing community concentrated in to one person. I am so glad that him and his type are at the end of their direct influence over the sport and there is space for the next generation to step in and move the sport forward independent of these elitist assholes with an over inflated sense of self importance. Good riddance, Steve and his lot... Rest In Peace Ammon.

[@jacobthayer236]

I can't stand gate keepers like Steve Grossman. They totally put people off to different sports.

[@tomdiets5079]

They ruin a lot of extreme sports, I don’t understand why gate keeping is such a problem I’m extreme sports. It’s like their being selfish and don’t want to share.

[@PirateCommander]

​@@tomdiets5079 I'm retired at more than one [multiple] 'extreme sports'. We can pass on the LORE (tips and wrinkles, myths and legends), but we are not 'the' LAW (Dictators). I'm out of Paintball, Bungee, Skates and SkateBoards, occasionally I found myself relieved that safety (ropes especially) was a 'thing' in other things I dabbled with that I'm NOT considered expert in, so, yes, there is always going to be a better opinion on every decision you make ... after the fact, but watch out always for anyone EARNING A LIVING out of being an 'expert' on things they haven't actually got a proven [to peers] record in.

[@wellscampbell9858]

I am a surfer first and foremost, but I've climbed enough, and been lucky enough, to have had some exposure to a few climbers who, though they wouldn't admit it, were at an elite level in the sport. I must say that I did catch a whiff of the territorial/ethics thing, not on the receiving end but hearing the chatter around the campfire among the good climbers about this and that. I would also be asked about surfing's localism phenomenon, and I struggled to find parallels amongst the climbers. I always had the opinion that if resources in rock climbing became as scarce as they are in surfing, then climbers would behave the same way and climbing areas would have localism too. Of course the climbers would reject this notion, with the position that climbers are often stewards of nature, had ethics, were more respectful and peaceful, and so on. So I had to chuckle when Hans Florine mentioned surfing... To me, what went on around the first ascent is substantially and entirely identical to surf localism. It is cliquish thuggish behavior that goes far beyond what would be appropriate to the reasons they give to justify their actions. There's a difference between telling someone they're being unsafe or disrespectful of ethics, and using those virtuous motivators as excuses to choose to dislike and exclude outsiders. Most of the time the things that are done are far beyond appropriate for their given reason. You'll have a few real bullies surrounded by a large crew of simpering enablers who just want to belong. Hearing Steve Grossman talk about the route getting chopped reminded me of so many of the simpering enabler type I've known surfing. They wouldn't start anything or lead the threat but they'd be there in the background chattering. And later when they talked about their big goon friend pushing around that kook from down south or whatever, and saying yeah they were being unsafe and in the way, they would all have the same smirk Steve had. Like he was really thinking about the funny stuff that was said around the campfire after the guys that chopped the route got back. Thank goodness I learned long ago that these groups who claim things of nature as their own have built among themselves towers without foundations, and are best ignored.

[@Phoenixhunter157]

Richard and mark definitely didn’t deserve that. Seems like locals were just pretty insecure.

[@derekcraig3617]

steve grossman could never climb wings if steel

[@sraightupfl3xin]

Steve making it hard to watch this.. Im cringing

[@toug65]

Never did. Never would attempt, but I was always fascinated by climbing. The gang mentality (“we own this rock”) thing caught me by surprise. Very engaging documentary.

[@sodiumlights]

Thanks for this superb film.

[@shutemdwn]

Steve Grossman, what a tool. They owe you nothing.

[@Chance-ry1hq]

The harassment they received is the kind of harassment you receive from a bunch of losers who think they are in a position of authority. That so call historian in reality is the chief loser.

[@wyleFTW]

He's like a foamer of rock climbing lol

[@leowurstbauer301]

Got copletely hooked by this documentary

[@jameshowat1396]

😉

[@TerjeMathisen]

I've been climbing my entire life, I first came to Yosemite (from Norway) in 1981, and on that visit I used a _single_ placement comparable to what both the first and second ascensionists had to do for _every_ move on that slab. The route was on Quarter Domes and I needed a single piece of aid to reach into the bottom of a perfect splitter crack, so the only option I found was the smallest size RP, placed sideways between two quartz crystals on the surface. It did hold my weight (I'm 59 kg), but when my climbing partner Dag (who was about 3 kg heavier) followed, the RP came out. I'm just trying to image doing stuff as insecure as that, for move after move and pitch after pitch, and I realize that I really cannot image what kind of mental fortitude that would require.

[@KenJohnsonFlyfishing]

It's always nice to see petty jealousies get put to rest. Respect to both parties of climbers for persevering and achieving their objective. Some people are talkers and some people are doers.

[@pat13487]

Remarkable video

[@conserve_climber]

I'm just happy to have an El Cap film that "doesn't" include Honnold or Caldwell

[@MikeGowan-xo9yv]

It’s seems to me, that it’s a free rock anyone can climb. For the clique of the valley climbers I say,kick rocks, you don’t own El Cap…they can climb anything, anyway…

[@edwardstarrett5545]

Fuck Steve. I mean that. I started in the 80's and never went to Yosemite back then because of this kinda bs. All anyone had to say was good luck, boys. Good on Ammon!

[@blueskies133]

Great documentary

[@keshavsaharia]

I was a total novice on El Cap once and was jugging slowly/inefficiently out of a belay station on the Nose when Hans Florine (the 2020s version with gray hair) and his partner jetted up to the anchor I just left. He looked at me, smiled and said "you gotta get faster with that". Honestly if I got to that skill level, some of it might get to my head and I wouldn't be so kind to a slow gumby jeopardizing my NIAD ascent. Hans really is a super nice guy and emblematic of modern climbers (kind and non-confrontational). Steve, on the other hand, represents a mentality that has thankfully died off in the Valley. There are enough climbers out here that you can't possibly know everyone, and no one person has enough influence to shit on/cut down the ropes of another.

[@AndyTomaselli]

the dick mesuring contest that went on and on on Supertopo for years finally got a break when El Cap Pirate did the second ascent but Steve G never shut up and continued to prove he was the king of jerks at his chosen profession of gatekeeper of his inflated ego. Before the Pirate flew to the great beyond he also did an amazing job of holding his shit together after nearly severing a foot on his other jump that did not end well yet in hindsight not as bad as his l final flight RIP Ammon

[@desertriderukverun1002]

Elitist a-holes f up every sport. El Cap is an amazing formation as well as those who have climbed it whether free or aid

[@chrishubbard1442]

I enjoyed this film. Didn't get the Grossman vibe at all. What's the big deal? I am a surfer and I get it when a good wave is forming and people compete to get it. The rock is just sitting there. You can wait five minutes and do the climb with no need to compete. People criticize surfing but they don't understand the fleeting nature of it and the forced time table of Go Now or miss it. Sometimes that leads to crashes and poor choices in the heat of the moment. I love climbing because it is the opposite. Just wait a little bit and the climb is all yours. Some people I will never understand. Ron Kauk comes off as such a cool thoughtful guy. I have met him and he is exactly that, a total cool cat. Grossman could learn a thing or two from him.

[@bms9304]

Total respect for the people who have climbed the route. The rest? Insecure posers. No body owns these faces. As long as damage is not being done you either can, or cannot, see a line. You either can, or cannot climb the line. The rest is schoolyard politics.

[@michaelthomson8065]

That God for people like.Ammon.Who thru big wall climbing,lives life to the fullest.Arhh mates.

[@iamkendraofficial2174]

Wow!! Horrible treatment… and sad how they blame the people being disrespected! Smh

[@thomasmontoya7279]

that UPS driver is a bad ass

[@octopusjjsnook]

So no condemnation of the shit-throwing and bullying bt this Grossman.

[@mikes3756]

RIP Ammon

[@michaelthomson8065]

Too bad the locals didn't see the vision when Ruchard and Mark chose their line.

[@tomdiets5079]

This is the embarrassing part of extreme sports, the people that do them are these chill acting people acting that try and put off this live and let live attitude but they totally don’t live by this motto.

[@foreverlv311]

Jealousy is an ugly trait, no one owns anything especially not other people! If you disagree with their method just move along and do it yr way, yr own route. Get over yrselfs😂 big babies.

[@stealth1fighter]

So sad. Egos gone wild

[@pat13487]

💪

[@jjsmama401]

This is a very confusing documentary unless you already know the backstory. Who is “we” and who is who and what did the climbers do wrong?

[@johndough1218]

Ammon!

[@paulmitchell5349]

People find excuses not to climb a route. Curiously, most routes that are avoided are desperate, be they beautiful or ugly. Not like this climb is isolated way out in the back country. This stuff about outsider and insider is total crap. Anyone trying a climb is a CLIMBER.

[@octopusjjsnook]

This Grossman, some self-styled "historian", issuing a fatwa against Jensen snd Smith claiming they had to obey his and his sect claiming they hadn't shown enough respect by not doing the "correct" prearation is a piece of shit.

[@scottsdale4899]

I’m not a climber….no dice but this was a great documentary. The old wrinkled historian comes off like such a huge Dbag. Embarrasment to the sport.

[@wellscampbell9858]

@ 12:26 gives me pucker flashbacks about hooking

[@straytenwhitenormell7759]

How childish.

[@SticksAandstonesBozo]

I am cursed to do just about every hobby. Most people obsess over 1-2 hobbies but I rotate non stop. What I know is anything that has this level of dedication where it becomes someone’s entire identity you then have terrible behavior more often. Anything that is dangerous , cave diving , motorcycles, climbing , it’s always got this larger group of douche bags attached to it.

[@arthurjones9580]

I couldn't finish this. Babies.

[@user-oc6xj7xo6q]

I detest anyone who says El Cap……

[@bench175]

By just talking about Wings of steel and not showing it in a schematic or something I got bored by 4 minutes. As a non climber

[@noahroach4931]

I understand that, but you would have to know a fair amount about climbing I think to maybe understand exactly what’s going on up there.

[@jacobthayer236]

I'm not a climber, and I thoroughly enjoyed it to be fair.

[@tomdiets5079]

I’m not a climber and was hooked to this film, but I will say the guy Steve is the problem with sports like climbing and surfing. The gate keeping they do in these sports is ridiculous, I can understand they love their sport but that’s not their decision to tell someone what they can and can’t do in a state park, it’s just stupid and makes them look arrogant.

[@coresurf22]

💯% @tomdiets5079 same for a National Park😉

[@user-vc8we4dg7q]

Pretty boring documentary really.

[@wyleFTW]

Steve is a foamer

[@mikes3756]

No one talks about the religious prejudice? The first ascent pair were Mormons. Ammon was brought up a Mormon.

[@MidLifeCrimper]

Seems like a reach idk

[@mikes3756]

If you read the book Camp 4 it talks about how the other climbers thought Mormons were weird

[@tomdiets5079]

Honestly, they evidently didn’t want to make it about their religion or they would have said something about this, they did say that they didn’t climb on the sabbath. It’s not being prejudice because they aren’t talking about other religions they just decided to not bring up religion because it’s a freaking climbing documentary. If you think this is religious prejudice I think you need to relax and stop thinking everyone and everything is about religion, not everyone lives like you and I’m saying this as a religious person myself.

[@wyleFTW]

​@@mikes3756well yeah they are weird so what?

[@mikes3756]

I was repeating an explanation of why they were disliked and ostracized by the regular climbing community and why their climb was considered by the community as illegitimate

[@markprettyman5442]

all the more reason to pack heat.