2011-2019 Ford Explorer Front Hub Bearing Assembly Replacement How-To

This video will show you how to replace the front hub and bearing assemblys on the 2011-2019 Ford Explorer. Hub assembly were purchased off of Amazon and I will provide a link to them below.
Timkin Hub Assembly: amzn.to/3ZusVhq
Brake Caliper Holding Hooks: amzn.to/3nDvkJq

[@cartermagirl2639]

Wow best lighting, camera angles, and explanation I’ve seen on a car repair video I’ve seen yet

[@stanleycollins5783]

So far this is the best (quickest and simplest) hub removal I've seen on KZbin. I use a slide hammer also.

[@Chuckhollywood22]

How did you know yours needed replacing

[@stevenhedstrom5586]

A nice and easy video to follow. I like the calm coolness of your voice.

[@ranckie5055]

Great video. Your filming, clarity, and editing is excellent, and you get right to the point without a lot of meaningless dribble, but you explain everything very well as you go. Nice job!

[@bluefenix3296]

Glad I found this video. My dad and I were trying the bolt and nut method of removing the hub with no real luck. Had to stop early tonight, but hoping to pick up a slide hammer tomorrow and create a smooth finish to the process.

[@tonymarshall8168]

Best how to video I have watched plenty of light so you can see everything. No B.S. you got all the torque specs no skipping over anything. Thanks.

[@vladimirmozer4327]

Hi and thanks for a very informative video. One note from the workshop manual (2011 Explorer though) - It states that the hub nut (both front and rear wheel hubs) must be tightened before the vehicle is lowered to the ground. Also the torque spec for the wheel hub nut is 258lb-ft (350 Nm).

[@jermainey]

Likely the ford spec, other brand replaments have their own specs

[@worldsworstyakanglerwa6286]

Thx good video, with your clear no fluff instructions I was able to knock this out in no time.

[@kdr3546]

Excellent Video !!! Thankyou...Will be doing mine this weekend :)

[@willu7308]

Informative, to the point while smoothly getting the job done. T. Y. 👍

[@rp2655]

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, GOING TO ATTEMPT TO REPLACE MINE IN THE COMING WEEKS! VERY HELPFUL! THANK YOU

[@SteveO5O4]

Thank you so much for this video you saved me money and made me feel good that I pulled it off following your steps!

[@mylowproject]

Very good not all that hard other than unsticking the hub. Thanks for your videos.

[@johnweiss1365]

Are the front and rear hubs the same? You made this look too easy. Good job

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yes the front and rear are exactly the same.

[@lessummers5738]

@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE When you replace one bearing do you have to on the other side?Good video very easy to understand

[@JustFixItAlready]

Excellent work. Hopefully a video coming soon of 2018 Jeep GC alternator replacement.

[@JustFixItAlready]

As well as water pump replacement

[@tazcrazy8183]

Thank you for this video 💯💯

[@solasolar]

Thanks for the video. Did the ABS light pop up when you started the car? Mine did. I'm now sure what the mechanic did.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

No abs light afterwards. Sometimes it takes a few minutes after driving for the sensor to read the hub then it should shut off. If it stays on then maybe they forgot to plug the sensor back in or the magnet on the sensor is dirty.

[@NeritaHuarancca-lz8wq]

Buen video qué momento se volvió t40 y después usastes t30

[@jorgeflores-i8d]

Really nice video.. thanks man!

[@unclepauly2959]

Great video nice art work too

[@kennethmorrow740]

Just curious but why do final torque on the axle nut with the wheels on the ground? Is it just because it’s easier to prevent the assembly from spinning. I usually use a long prybar in between the lugs and the handle against the ground in order to achieve final torque

[@shariffgriffin5701]

Awesome video

[@johnweiss1365]

I have a slight roar noise and the rear hubs were replaced by ford at 100k. I have 190k on the car now and the fronts haven’t been replaced yet. When I originally heard the rear noise you could spin the tires with it off the ground and hear the noise. I cannot hear the noise this time around. I’m just going to replace the fronts this time around. I wouldn’t think the rear failed again just 80k later??

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

That’s kind of how this one was couldn’t hear the noise with wheels off the ground spinning but as soon as the tires were on the ground with all the weight on the hubs going down the road it was noticeable.

[@johnweiss1365]

I had to end up taking the knuckle off both sides. A 30 ton press couldn’t even get it out without using a torch with it. I have the video. The right front was also the bad one like yours. I have to do the rear now because there is a whine in the back. Only 80k on the ones in the rear, I do tow a jet ski trailer with it. Why do these fail so quickly?

[@deschampsjeff]

The bad bearing may not make noise if there is no load on them, that’s why the noise happens while driving only.

[@rickhuff3617]

I have done this job on a GMC truck a half dozen times and the procedure is essentially the same. I now drive a 2018 Ford Explorer XLT and, unfortunately, this procedure doesn't apply. Here's what I found. Everything went smoothly until I had to remove the 4 nuts on the wheel hub. I have a variety of 18 mm sockets; deep well, impact, medium (1/2") and short (3/8") and none will go on these bolts in a straight fashion like those done in the video. There simply isn't all that space around the bolts. Tried and tried but managed to only get one of them to move. I even moved the steering back and forth but there was just no way to get at them with a socket. I sprayed both ends of each bolt with penetrating spray and waited. I managed to loosen one with an 18mm box wrench but when I tried with another it wouldn't budge. So, I used the old leverage trick. I slipped a long pipe over the wrench for better leverage. It was so tight the box end of the box wrench broke off! I've never seen that happen before and these bolts are not rusted. There is virtually no rust on this vehicle mainly because it hasn't been driven much or has it seen any bad winters. The only thing I can come up with is there was either thread lock on the bolts or this particular bolt was cross threaded during initial assembly. I stopped what I was doing, put it all back together and will take it to a pro. Most likely it will require some heat to get those loose.

[@TaylorCutsTrees]

haha

[@lindaemery4476]

Having this job done as I type this in our 2015 Ford explorer and got a call telling us the labor cost just went up as they are having a hard time getting the hub bearing off. I tole them to watch your video.. How long of a job should this normally take baring in mind the removal difficulty?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Sometimes these can be difficult to remove especially if you live in the rust belt. But every shop should have the proper tools to remove it. I personally wouldn't charge someone extra if I was having trouble getting it out it's just part of the job. Normally this would take about 45min per side to do.

[@walberto78]

Great freaking video I was able to change both hubs on my 2014 explorer

[@farhanidrees3659]

After Changing front wheel bearing now clicky noise is coming from steering wheel when I turn the steering to right side

[@Chuckhollywood22]

2011 ford explorer I did all the bearing tests and it passed! How do I know it’s a bearing and not tires?

[@MrAngelusnoctus]

I just did these on my 2013 Explorer. I tried everything to get the off. Nothing worked. Finally, I took the steering knuckle off and used a 20-ton press to get them out. Not fun. Good luck to everyone.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yeah these can seize easily especially if you live in the rust belt.

[@benanderson7764]

I tried the slide hammer with heat but ended up have to remove the knuckle and press the wheel bearing out as well.

[@juanvega584]

Yall 😂making easy but yall not show the struggle when the old one is like seal and hard to come out 😂😮😅

[@TamaraGrace]

I have a question, and man I could sure use some help. We own a 2016 Ford Utility pi and just a week ago, dude ran a stop sign and hit front drive side tire. Disconnected the thing from the axel... its just hanging there. And we're totally not at fault, with dashcam proof for verification. As we wait for our accident report, I'm getting more and more concerned that the IA is going to try and screw us, and then coz we're on the low income side of things, we're gonna have to eat that idiots mistake. AND as I look around to find a replacement, incase the IA renders it totaled, we can't find one for the price we got ours just 4 months ago.... So I'm thinking, what's that whole tire hub thing called? What would I need to do, if I had to tell the IA to screw off, that we will just keep our car and replace everything ourselves? My husband and I, know enough mechanic stuff, between ourselves, that diying maybe come an option for us. Especially if IA trys low balling us. Any help, we would greatly appreciate.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Depending on the damage you would most likely need a new inner & outer tie rod, hub bearing, lower control arm, upper and lower ball joint, steering knuckle unless it reusable. But without seeing it hard to tell.

[@TamaraGrace]

​@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I understand without a look over, you can't make a call, but I really appreciate the start. Generally speaking, most automobiles atleast have the same skeleton, sort of speak. Then breaking it down by make and model. But your general response is what i needed for a start. Thanks! Really appreciate you.

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

@@TamaraGrace no problem you could always email me some pictures of the damage at [e-mail] if you need more assistance I might be able to get a better look at it.

[@TamaraGrace]

​@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you!

[@a151ca]

well this isnt canada lmao

[@Chris._P._Bacon]

oh don't drop the caliper, it will damage the hose.................So, you mean to tell me, that a hose that stands the pressure of 2000psi and stops a 5,500lb vehicle on the dime can be THAT easily damaged?

[@BLUECOLLARGARAGE]

Yes it can be especially as the vehicle ages and the rubber becomes more brittle. Also if you live in the rust belt it can corrode the metal on the line and break off seen it plenty of times.