#5 How to use & apply Spray Poly Filler on 71 Camaro | Muscle Car Respray

[@oldieman730]

In the early 90's in a clean shop doing rich men's cars, we used the Glasurit system with it's spray poly on every job, two coats only. If any repair felt like it may need more than two, it was sent back to the panel beater to fix. Used properly, as you showed, it is a solid step in preparing for a perfect end result.

[@AstillDesign]

Thanks for your input

[@michaelbyrnes7944]

Spot on with what old mate said in my experience about the drowning, everything in prep soul most spray painter’s I’ve seen do that thinking there doing the right thing and most don’t give enough time flashing time between coats flaking and blistering is the result of lazy spray painters doing bad prep not following material data sheets .. owwww she be right cobber 😂😂😂😂

[@AstillDesign]

Oh so true

[@wanderingweederspapa7878]

Prep and masking is key.. you don't want this stuff where it will be tough to sand..well done

[@AstillDesign]

thanks for the feed back

[@adriandeluchin5982]

Another bloody awesome vid of products & info once agian Howard,

[@AstillDesign]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@tonymontana897]

You remembered my question about the quantity of product required to cover the panels. Thanks for the info Howard. Solid episode mate. Regards Tony 👍

[@AstillDesign]

You bet! glad to help

[@jasonday7893]

I look forward to watching all your content. Your a role model mate and i learn lots watching you each time. Thank you 👍

[@AstillDesign]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@johnruiz3649]

Hey Howard really enjoying your shows, could you maybe do a short show just explaining the start to finish with the products names etc you use, say the steps after bare metal, epoxy primers poly primers base coats clear etc

[@AstillDesign]

I will see what we can do.

[@Me-dt3ul]

Thanks Howard for sharing your knowledge it's very appreciated.

[@AstillDesign]

My pleasure

[@johnmathews3027]

Very nice work, Great video, thanks for sharing

[@AstillDesign]

Thank you very much!

[@mradmcclub]

Another very informative episode Howard. Thumbs up !

[@AstillDesign]

Thanks again for the feed back

[@Steve-jo3cl]

Love this series of videos Howard cannot say thankyou enough !!! SO thankyou.... And also wanted to ask have you used of heard of Linear Blocking tools and if so whats your thoughts on these blocking tools ?? Many thanks again as i am about to do my own first full respray and am aiming for a show quality

[@AstillDesign]

Hi, I havnt used the specific blocks, they work on the spline technic and is very popular at the moment. I prefer the dustless method that we are using for that reason, limited dust

[@Steve-jo3cl]

@@AstillDesign Ahhhh good point i didnt think of the limited dust.. Cheers thanks Howard

[@michaelbyrnes7944]

Never been game enough to use it as I’ve found if your repairs are good enough you don’t need to.. and in the trade I’ve only seen bad things about it especially on hail damage cars . I like to do it the hard way double block double prime with hs primer and I’ve never had a problem or come back.. blocking spray bog is fun but I wouldn’t use on any of my cars

[@AstillDesign]

I have used it a couple of times, it better than too many coats of hi build primer

[@markarchinal9651]

Again outstanding video , thanks so much . I’ve noticed that in your spray booth the floor is sometimes wet , but latest video it’s bone dry . Any reason ?

[@AstillDesign]

Tomorrow there is a full story on the booth. I only use the wet floor for top coats to keep the dust down.

[@richardayoub5323]

Howard, I appreciate all the effort and content you provide the Car community, however it would help if you could provide some basic costings in relation to equipment being used, paints, paper and other tools of the trade. A big factor for some enthusiasts is cost when trying to manage a house hold budget as well. I know a lot paints and equipment isn’t cheap, but when there is other pressing priorities, some of us may use products that are within our budgets, especially when working from home. It would help to see if this is achievable or perhaps look for cheaper alternatives and perhaps with the same results, especially for the backyarders. Love your work and attention to detail. Regards

[@AstillDesign]

Thanks for the input, I will see what I can do. Cheers H

[@kanenaysmith9287]

Thanks again for sharing mate. you have been a great help. Am i right in saying that step 1 is epoxy primer, step 2 body filler, step 3 is spray poly, step 4 epoxy primer again step 5 polyester, step 6 base coat, step 7 clear coat? Cheers

[@AstillDesign]

1 epoxy, 2 body filler, 3 epoxy then wet on wet poly spray filler, 4 epoxy then wet on wet primer, 5 base coat 6 clear

[@kanenaysmith9287]

thank you@@AstillDesign

[@paulcoote3094]

It's biggest benefit is zero shrinkage. Leave some epoxy in a cup vs polyester in a cup. You will see the vast difference when it's dry.

[@AstillDesign]

The DP 616 is a very thin epoxy, the poly works well as does the hibuild primer. Each has its own job

[@paulcoote3094]

​@AstillDesign I think you need to address product shrinkage when discussing different products. I was surprised john didn't mention it . Pointless blocking for days to get something flat when two weeks later it shrinks and looks like waves rolling into Port Kembla on a big swell.

[@crazydave7375]

Hi mate. Really enjoying your videos. I’m doing a bare metal restoration on my falcon and have started metal prepping and epoxy. After body filler and re-epoxy over body filller I plan on putting a primer/ filler over the top. I have been told I can put the colour straight over the primer / filler. ( after blocking). Would you agree with this? Or do I need a primer again before colour ?

[@AstillDesign]

It depends on the products your using. If you use a hibuild primer you can paint direct. If it’s a poly filler then it will need resealing with epoxy then primer.

[@crazydave7375]

@@AstillDesign cool. thanks for replying.

[@jraposo911]

Nice tutorial 😊JR

[@AstillDesign]

Thanks for the visit

[@jamessimpson3162]

Hi Howard, im interested in polyurethane seam sealant under polyester primer. I feel that leaving seam sealer until all primers have been applied would be best to eliminate shifting/cracking of seam sealer/paint over time. Ideally, seam sealer between final epoxy and surface primer/sealer before colour. I see you've done it different and would like to hear your take on it. Kind regards.

[@AstillDesign]

Hi, in hindsight I think your right. I usually don’t use a lot of poly. Just before primer would be the better option

[@chrisnicholson72]

Great videos, im working on a 72 camaro right now, the attention to detail you do is incredible, how much money think you’ll have in to?

[@AstillDesign]

I’m only doing the paint, have a look at the introduction on this series it will explain the project

[@craighogg3746]

this may not be the time and place for this comment, but i would love a bit of info regarding your spray booth basics. such as end filtering. is it sucking or blowing? maybe content for another time. only asking as i have painted some past projects in various locations such as in the drive way thru to a handyman spray booth. cheers on the series. loving the info/content.

[@AstillDesign]

thanks for the feedback, Its a homemade booth utilising a single 16K CFM fan sucking through spray filter pads and out through fibreglass booth filters.

[@craighogg3746]

thanks for the info@@AstillDesign

[@AstillDesign]

this weeks episode is on the booth

[@aaronsteele7422]

Hi Howard, love the videos just wondering when you re epoxy the inside of the panels over the poly, did you say you prime them again? If so what do you use? Thanks mate

[@AstillDesign]

Yes mate, primer over epoxy before colour. DP 602 Primaprime img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/c5560ea0-c6c7-4b32-8d2d-3d51242251c5/downloads/DP602%20PRIMAPRIME.pdf?ver=1695845812210

[@aaronsteele7422]

Thanks mate, yeah I know you reprime before top coat but is that same time after re epoxy after appropriate flash off

[@aaronsteele7422]

Sorry to ask so many questions mate, just wondering why you don't prime straight over the poly as well? Thanks

[@AstillDesign]

You need to seal every process with epoxy then you can wet on wet with the next process. Body filler sanded to 180 then seal with Epoxy, wet on wet Spray poly, sand poly then epoxy wet on wet with primer, sand then colour. We will cover sanding poly in the next episode.

[@aaronsteele7422]

Thanks mate, love watching the process getting done properly, always interested in new products and processes

[@richardpaterson7513]

Thanks for a very informative video on the process Howard. When using the propane heater to bring the booth to temperature, do you also need to monitor the humidity for adhesion and drying times? Cheers

[@AstillDesign]

thats a good question, off the cuff I would say the gas heater reduces the humidity, its a very dry heat.

[@ja8020]

Howard where have you been! I've needed my Astill Design time. :):):) You know we want the panelvan content though.

[@AstillDesign]

not sure what you mean, were here every week plus extra's. The panel van doesn't pay the bills unfortunately.

[@ja8020]

@@AstillDesign your content must have dropped from my feed. I’ll keep an eye on that in future.

[@AstillDesign]

You better subscribe and set the bell

[@stevenboyes5601]

I'm confused, how is this called a filler if it only fills to 0.2mm? I would have expected you to say it can fill up to a couple of mm min. Was high build primer made to eliminate this product and how much high build is too much then? chur

[@AstillDesign]

That’s the problem, people over use both products causing problems including shirking.

[@konstantintop-painting6882]

You have to be more accurate about the products first of all you doing what you like to do not what the product needs A polyester filling primer needs 250 μm to start drying and at least 100μm left over product on the panel after sanding and because PPG knows that you will do your own give no warranties of use of this filling primer

[@AstillDesign]

Yes you need to follow the data sheets for any product

[@konstantintop-painting6882]

@@AstillDesign polyester products are self heating and self drying products esothermic if you know so the only you can do is to use a correct spray gun avoid thinner or reducers in the product if they are not fully organic after a probably one or two hours after applying cover your areas with a good plastic so you can archive the 12 years of natural drying time in a three day spectrum but as a painter you had to know and not looking to the data sheets because data sheets are general advises from the factory to avoid the guarantee for the product

[@seekndestroygaming]

120 for filler is perfectly fine. 180 isn't needed. He sounds like a whinging painter 🤣

[@AstillDesign]

Its me who likes to go down to 180

[@seekndestroygaming]

@@AstillDesign yeah, it was more of a joke than a serious statement. 120 is fine especially when using poly as it doesn't shrink like hi build does. 👍👍