Attic Insulation Done Wrong… and How to Do It Right!

[@aceagui7318]

Finally someone that cares, and knows what they’re doing, 97% of contractors don’t care and the others don’t know. Congrats, you should work as an city inspector, even for new built. Thanks

[@TheGuinever]

Which makes me wonder HOW they get licensed.

[@GuitarsAndSynths]

@@TheGuinever clown school?

[@catholic3dod790]

Yeah

[@Zickcermacity]

Larry J. from Connecticut! I used to see your promotions all the time until I moved away. A lot of heated air escapes through the highest ceilings in a home, particularly those with older lath ceilings. If the ceilings are really bad, then it's time to re-sheetrock them, and seal up good between the sheets. Insulating and air-sealing overheads and exterior walls can stop what's happening at 7:44 . Doing this to the entire exterior envelope can still be a lot cheaper than replacement windows and weathersealed doors.

[@checkfoldcallraise]

I absolutely love videos like this. So helpful! People really should be informed like this wether it’s to be a better diy’er or to not get scammed by low quality, lazy contractors that charge high quality prices and leave you with the same problem. This is a great public service, thank you kindly 😊

[@miscstuff1391]

If you don't want to go through the expense of insulation removal and re-blowing, how about suiting up on a cool day and tape gloves over long sleeves, a pair of ski goggles with non fogging clear lense, and a good sealing mask/respirator and prepare to spend the day moving the insulation away, spray sealing and move the insulation back over it. Do it in sections at a time and hope you don't miss too much. Great video.

[@1USAUSA]

Oh man, I am like 8 years too late.... I replaced my whole attic insulation and did find all these gaps he is talking about in the attic. I didn't think much about them, but now it makes senses why my house's wall seems to be always cool or cold in the winter time. Well, at least I know now.... Thanks Dr. Energy.

[@Lilmiket1000]

ugh I caught mine just in time. i'm about a week from insulating my attic. it has nothing up there at all. and i've just been doing a ton of research before i get into it. With my OCD i would have had to go back up there and do it right eventually.

[@dbazil]

I hear ya! I've been looking at ways to better the efficiency in our house. I'm tired of seeing my monthly energy bill tell me that I'm consistently using between 32% - 41% more energy than houses of similar size. My house is only 8 years old (we bought it about 2 years ago). I'm glad that I found this video, gives me good ideas of where to start.

[@shapeshifter178]

Damon Bazil If the house is of newer construction than others nearby you might want to look into the local building code, or ask a contractor, for the minimum requirements of that build year. Not sure if recourse would be available to any subsequent (non-original) home buyer, but worth a look. If the other similar houses in your area were built roughly the same time you should probably direct your focus inward. Being merely eight years since erected and provided the developer followed regs for the building envelope/insulative barrier it sounds like the consumption issue is inside the house as opposed to the house itself. Lastly, another tool one can use that is just as valuable as the pressure reading/whole-house blower combo is a thermal imaging camera. Most accurate in locating breaks in the air seal and gauging their severity.

[@dbazil]

Much appreciated shape shifter. I'll agree, we probably do use more than some families, but there are only 2 of us in the house. I've got a couple routes I'm going to go with. The first is that I've already contacted a company in the local area to provide a home energy audit that includes the pressure reading/whole-house blower. I'm also going to purchase a small thermal imaging camera and go around checking for possible air leaks. I know we have one at the front door because during the winter we have a HUGE draft (although I've tried to seal the door multiple times). So lastly we are having the front and rear door of the house replaced. I appreciate the insight!

[@toriless]

I have IC cans but they never sealed them. What bums!

[@brianroyer8375]

Good video. I used to do warranty repairs for mobile homes. When customers in the North Eastern states had draft and cold air issues I would go early in am to see if their roof frost had bare spots. Light snow was nice for checking roofs by looking at bare spots I could tell where the leaks were. Homeowners can check there own homes using this method in order to locate the areas that need sealed an insulated.

[@keithnoneya]

Wow I just crawled into my attic and I was shocked at what I saw! I've lived in my home for over 20 years and my electric bill has always been very high. Now I know why, I've got some work to do for sure! Thanks for such an informative home video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@theguymaxqc]

was about time lol its about the first thing you should check

[@keithnoneya]

@@theguymaxqc Fore sure for sure, but you can't check what you don't know to check, or even know you should check. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

[@theguymaxqc]

@@keithnoneya 👍 after 20years you dont have major issues for sure ,bad isolation is not the worst problem

[@Cotronixco]

Bravo. This guy knows exactly what he is talking about! This happened to me with a brand new house. The contractors were obviously clueless about their own jobs. 30 inches of blown-in cellulose insulation in the attic, but they didn't bother to seal it. Leaked like a sieve, frost on the sheathing and shingle nails, melting roof snow, lots of icicles. I did a blower door test to prove my point about chimney effect. I made them suck out the cellulose, reseal the attic with foam at all top plates, can lights, bath fans, electrical penetrations, plumbing venting, etc. and then reblow the cellulose. EVERY surface needs both R value AND seal, not just one or the other!

[@fancybrooks3156]

Good on you for making them re-do it right!

[@statewench2828]

A follow up with the home owner in 6 months would be awesome. How much money saved and how much more comfortable.

[@lillsizzle]

I have voiced for 20 years+ the lack of "do it right the first time" attitude the industry has lacked and this video is absolutely amazing in reference. look at how well the job was done at the end of the video vs. the beginning... you definitely get what you pay for, go cheap well just wasting money, pay up front save money for ever more. Great video!

[@neoz6251]

I agree he's awesome. That's pristine job and he gives a damm about doing it right.

[@吳佑佑-x8l]

*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare. :)*

[@elmermt]

These are great tips for this old house I just purchased, a 1930 home. floor is cold, walls are cold, it is around 25 in the attic, I can't wait to take your tips and put them to use in the spring, If I shot off the heater, the house temp will drop to 40. I have 4 eco heaters running 24 seven, to keep the house at 65.

[@opentrunk]

I have a whole bunch of leaky can lites with incandescent bulbs. I retro-fitted new LED inserts into them which by their design provide a much better seal. Made a big difference in my energy bills without having to do anything in the attic, although those attic can covers he used look like a a good solution.

[@Kim-qt7yn]

Well done tutorial for the homeowner to understand what a proper insulation job looks like. In my attic; top plates, fans, and can lights all look like this video with ZERO leak prevention. I have 3-5 inches total of blown in fiberglass-no bats in this home I just moved into. I have had an energy audit and also one contractor come out for quote to add insulation. Contractor only plans to just spray in cellulose of course no prep work what so ever and I went into the attic with him to point out leakage!. Thank you, I now understand what I need to do. It's 12 degrees outside, 50 inside and I am bundled up because the furnace just runs continuously to try and maintain temp due to major leakage. So thankful I found this video.

[@emmamarqueling4467]

1. Completely sealing every nook and cranny in your home actually greatly reduces indoor air quality and greatly increases humidity (i.e. conditions that support the growth of mold in your home) if you don't also introduce a powered ventilation system to bring in fresh outdoor air. If you are planning to add a powered fresh air ventilation system then feel free to seal every nook and cranny in the walls/ceiling/attic/floor. If you aren't then feel free to leave some gaps (especially in the ceiling) to allow passive air exchange. Be sure that your attic is properly ventilated (i.e. gable vents, ridge vent, soffit vents, power vents) so that the air entering the attic from the living space can pass through without introducing excessive moisture into the attic (causes mold/rot). Sufficient insulation in the attic will control (not stop) passive air exchange to let you achieve a good balance of indoor air quality and energy efficiency. Tests have proven again and again that indoor air is significantly nastier than outdoor air. Air exchange is essential. Yes, totally sealing everything will decrease the energy usage required to heat/cool your home (assuming your insulation situation is unchanged). But, if you have to use energy to run a powered ventilation system and/or a dehumidifier to maintain indoor air quality and control mold growth, did you really save energy overall. This video and many others are great examples of what you get from professionals who know part of the equation well, but don't understand the entire equation. The result is that you often improve upon one issue only to create another issue. Before working with any contractor, or doing the work yourself, get educated. Then, be sure to work with a contractor that understands complex systems, not just one area of expertise. If you're going to pay somebody $1,000s to work on your home, don't just blindly trust that they know what they are doing. Do research, ask questions, check their work throughout the process, make sure you get everything in writing, and don't pay the bill until the job is done completely and per the written agreement.2. Wear safety equipment: glasses, hearing protection, masks/respirators, suits, etc. Just because the "pros" don't wear safety equipment when they shoot their videos, doesn't mean that you should skip safety too. In a properly ventilated attic air is almost always moving. If the attic is insulated with fiberglass (batt or chopped/blown) there are almost always tiny glass particles floating around in the attic; most you can't see. Always wear a mask/respirator in the attic in that case. Rolling around in fiberglass without breathing protection is worse than just sitting in a calm attack shooting a video, but that doesn't mean that just sitting there is SAFE - it's just not as bad.3. There is no reason to remove and dispose of perfectly good insulation. While it might take a little longer (doubtful), it is definitely much more environmentally destructive and expensive to remove and dispose of all the existing insulation when it can simply be moved aside as the attic is sealed, or vacuumed out and then blown back in when the sealing project is completed.4. Be sure that baffles are placed at the ends of the rafters where they meet the top plate of the outer walls. It is imperative to keep insulation from blocking airflow from eaves/soffits. Improperly ventilated attics can mold/rot, can get excessively hot in summer/sunny conditions and actually radiate heat into the living space which increases energy usage to keep the living space cool (not to mention that everything in the attic can be damaged by the excessive heat), and can cause ice dams along the edges of roofs in the winter. Ice dams don't allow melt water to run down off of the roof; rather melt water emanating from higher up the roof gets trapped (ie. dammed) and forced backward/upward under shingles/roofing near the eaves/soffits. Significant damage due to eventual rot of the sheathing, rafters, ceiling joists, sub-fascia, fascia and soffit structures can occur; this assumes that there wasn't enough water to cause ceiling/flooring/wall damage in the living space, even though this is possible in some cases. Repairing structural damage of this nature is significantly more costly than a simple reroofing job (i.e. installing shingles/metal roofing/etc and underlayment). Rafter baffles to prevent this cost about $1 each, though installing them in an existing roof is not the easiest job in the world.5. Be careful not to seal things that need ventilation to avoid overheating. Some can-lights, transformers for doorbells, and more. Again, educate yourself before doing/paying for any job.6. Don't put vapor barrier over drywall in an attic. Drywall has to be breathe; it is porous. Again, moisture exchange to the attic through the drywall is not a problem if the attic is properly ventilated. Besides, a super dry attic is a tinder-box. Nobody wants to start a housefire from a tiny spark of static-electricity just because they wore a polyester shirt in the attic when they were gathering their boxes of stored Halloween decorations.7. Virtually any attic can be sufficiently passively ventilated. If someone tries to sell you a powered ventilator for your attic, take some time to understand why. What you probably need are more box vents, gable vents or, most often, soffit vents not a powered ventilator. If you need more soffit ventilation, adding a powered ventilator to the roof or gable can actually make matters worse. It will draw air from the path of least resistance, which is typically through another gable vent or roof vents. This will tend to pull cool air only through one small area of the attic, and often only at the very top of the attic. In fact, if a powered ventilator is introduced, then other gable or roof vents may need to be removed/plugged in order to force the fresh air to come in through the soffits. Not only is this insufficient ventilation overall, it is unequal ventilation. Unequal ventilation can cause structural damage of its own due to unequal thermal expansion-contraction of various parts of the roof structure. The result can be warping of roof structures, loosening of fasteners (nails, screws, etc), and more. The best case is the roof makes popping and scraping noises as it heats/cools or gets blown in the wind. The worst case is water leaks and or weakness in areas of the roof that can lead to further structural damage when the roof is subjected to loading from wind, snow, etc.8. I'm tired of typing, but there is more. DO RESEARCH, ASK QUESTIONS, PAY ATTENTION.

[@cantankerousclankingcontra8295]

Excellent comment, but nearly impossible to read due to formatting issues. I took a very quick stab at reformatting your comment Emma. 1. Completely sealing every nook and cranny in your home actually greatly reduces indoor air quality and greatly increases humidity (i.e. conditions that support the growth of mold in your home) if you don't also introduce a powered ventilation system to bring in fresh outdoor air. If you are planning to add a powered fresh air ventilation system then feel free to seal every nook and cranny in the walls/ceiling/attic/floor. If you aren't then feel free to leave some gaps (especially in the ceiling) to allow passive air exchange. Be sure that your attic is properly ventilated (i.e. gable vents, ridge vent, soffit vents, power vents) so that the air entering the attic from the living space can pass through without introducing excessive moisture into the attic (causes mold/rot). Sufficient insulation in the attic will control (not stop) passive air exchange to let you achieve a good balance of indoor air quality and energy efficiency. Tests have proven again and again that indoor air is significantly nastier than outdoor air. Air exchange is essential. Yes, totally sealing everything will decrease the energy usage required to heat/cool your home (assuming your insulation situation is unchanged). But, if you have to use energy to run a powered ventilation system and/or a dehumidifier to maintain indoor air quality and control mold growth, did you really save energy overall. This video and many others are great examples of what you get from professionals who know part of the equation well, but don't understand the entire equation. The result is that you often improve upon one issue only to create another issue. Before working with any contractor, or doing the work yourself, get educated. Then, be sure to work with a contractor that understands complex systems, not just one area of expertise. If you're going to pay somebody $1,000s to work on your home, don't just blindly trust that they know what they are doing. Do research, ask questions, check their work throughout the process, make sure you get everything in writing, and don't pay the bill until the job is done completely and per the written agreement. 2. Wear safety equipment: glasses, hearing protection, masks/respirators, suits, etc. Just because the "pros" don't wear safety equipment when they shoot their videos, doesn't mean that you should skip safety too. In a properly ventilated attic air is almost always moving. If the attic is insulated with fiberglass (batt or chopped/blown) there are almost always tiny glass particles floating around in the attic; most you can't see. Always wear a mask/respirator in the attic in that case. Rolling around in fiberglass without breathing protection is worse than just sitting in a calm attack shooting a video, but that doesn't mean that just sitting there is SAFE - it's just not as bad. 3. There is no reason to remove and dispose of perfectly good insulation. While it might take a little longer (doubtful), it is definitely much more environmentally destructive and expensive to remove and dispose of all the existing insulation when it can simply be moved aside as the attic is sealed, or vacuumed out and then blown back in when the sealing project is completed. 4. Be sure that baffles are placed at the ends of the rafters where they meet the top plate of the outer walls. It is imperative to keep insulation from blocking airflow from eaves/soffits. Improperly ventilated attics can mold/rot, can get excessively hot in summer/sunny conditions and actually radiate heat into the living space which increases energy usage to keep the living space cool (not to mention that everything in the attic can be damaged by the excessive heat), and can cause ice dams along the edges of roofs in the winter. Ice dams don't allow melt water to run down off of the roof; rather melt water emanating from higher up the roof gets trapped (ie. dammed) and forced backward/upward under shingles/roofing near the eaves/soffits. Significant damage due to eventual rot of the sheathing, rafters, ceiling joists, sub-fascia, fascia and soffit structures can occur; this assumes that there wasn't enough water to cause ceiling/flooring/wall damage in the living space, even though this is possible in some cases. Repairing structural damage of this nature is significantly more costly than a simple reroofing job (i.e.installing shingles/metal roofing/etc and underlayment). Rafter baffles to prevent this cost about $1 each, though installing them in an existing roof is not the easiest job in the world. 5. Be careful not to seal things that need ventilation to avoid overheating. Some can-lights, transformers for doorbells, and more. Again, educate yourself before doing/paying for any job. 6. Don't put vapor barrier over drywall in an attic. Drywall has to be breathe; it is porous. Again, moisture exchange to the attic through the drywall is not a problem if the attic is properly ventilated. Besides, a super dry attic is a tinder-box. Nobody wants to start a housefire from a tiny spark of static-electricity just because they wore a polyester shirt in the attic when they were gathering their boxes of stored Halloween decorations. 7. Virtually any attic can be sufficiently passively ventilated. If someone tries to sell you a powered ventilator for your attic, take some time to understand why. What you probably need are more box vents, gable vents or, most often, soffit vents not a powered ventilator. If you need more soffit ventilation, adding a powered ventilator to the roof or gable can actually make matters worse. It will draw air from the path of least resistance, which is typically through another gable vent or roof vents. This will tend to pull cool air only through one small area of the attic, and often only at the very top of the attic. In fact, if a powered ventilator is introduced, then other gable or roof vents may need to be removed/plugged in order to force the fresh air to come in through the soffits. Not only is this insufficient ventilation overall, it is unequal ventilation. Unequal ventilation can cause structural damage of its own due to unequal thermal expansion-contraction of various parts of the roof structure. The result can be warping of roof structures, loosening of fasteners (nails, screws, etc), and more. The best case is the roof makes popping and scraping noises as it heats/cools or gets blown in the wind. The worst case is water leaks and or weakness in areas of the roof that can lead to further structural damage when the roof is subjected to loading from wind, snow, etc. 8. I'm tired of typing, but there is more. DO RESEARCH, ASK QUESTIONS, PAY ATTENTION. -Emma Marqueling

[@joepesci8930]

Too long didn't read

[@iainmacdonald4410]

i added a fresh air intake to my furnace return air about a month ago and it made a huge difference in air quality in my house, the air was getting in anyway, this way it goes through the filter first.

[@figofnewtons]

I've wondered about some of this when watching these videos. This is all so helpful, thank you for sharing your knowledge. We have a split level home, most bedrooms are upstairs above the garage and do well and the insulation above them seems solid. The other half of the house (upstairs and down stairs) performs poorly year round and the ceilings are vaulted there with no real attic space. We also get ice damns on that side of the roof in the winter so I'll have to look at rafter baffles as an option...

[@rrbb36]

@@506jeff , I GREATLY appreciate “Cantankerous Clanking Contraption” ‘s reformatting efforts! I would’ve never read Emma’s post otherwise. What a JERK you are for calling CCC a “bitch”.

[@alexeitrebounskikh5920]

Just had two contractors come in last week and tried to do it incorrectly. Found out about air sealing purely by accident. Thanks for posting this!

[@jameshoskins8902]

Those vent hole at the top of the light can are essential cooling for the fixture.

[@trimbaker1893]

yes. a fix for that is to replace the light bulbs with a new pop in LED fixture that does not get hot. much cheaper too operate also. but I agree, the minimum spacing at fixtures and fireplace chimneys can not be filled.

[@RobDucharme]

I had a garage built in the summer of 2020. I opted to finish the inside myself (insulation, vapour barrier, drywall). I will say this: DO THE SOFFIT VENTING FIRST. Don't install it AFTER you do the drywall. Crawling around in the garage attic to install those vents between the trusses SUCKS. But I'm doing it right, and will be blowing in cellulose insulation hopefully this week. The soffit vents prevent the cellulose from falling onto the soffit (which would restrict air movement), and it prevents the wind from blowing the cellulose away from the tops of your walls and into the middle of the attic. The air easily moves up through the soffit, along the vent channels and up/out of the roof vents. I had originally budgeted to have a contractor do this work, but after a catastrophic bank error killed my budget, I had to do this myself. And I'm glad I'm doing it myself because two of the several quotes I got from contractors involved blown in fiberglass insulation. Everything I've read online has indicated cellulose is better. All the parts of the attic that will see the top of the cellulose has been marked with a piece of tape so I can consistently blow in the correct depth of cellulose.

[@dinkydoo66]

Fantastic video. I'm Just about to undertake insulating my loft. It would never have occurred to me to air seal it all first. Thanks so much 😃

[@daphne4229]

This tutorial was amazing. Our house leaks air like a sieve and heating it is crazy expensive and non efficient. We thought it was bad insulation so had the moldy and wet stuff ripped out. The contractor was planning on just blowing fiberglass back in. After watching your video, we went up there ourselves and sealed all gaps. We were shocked to see that we had HUGE gaps between walls, fixtures and pipes. We used 6 cans of foams and are so excited to see the difference! I'm very appreciative of your video, Thank you!

[@grassyfras]

did it work?

[@Jake-td3zt]

Nice, he used the batts as a dam. He went that extra mile. This is quality work.

[@alvinbontreger7691]

I built my house in 1985, put the walls up, then rafters and roof, then before any interior walls were put up we put the vapor barrier on the ceiling and walls and sealed them where they met, then drywall-ed ceiling and walls so it was all sealed tight. now you can put your walls in with no leaks!

[@TXLoneStar_]

Had our attic spray foamed with R60. Sprayed under the rafters. R19 in the walls. Excellent stuff. Cut our power bill by 50% Replaced all light bulbs with LED lights. Nice and bright, but don't get hot. In any room, you open a door and the other door that's open moves..sealed house.

[@Jaze2022]

What was your r value before?

[@TXLoneStar_]

@@Jaze2022 R30 in attic and R11 in walls.

[@stenapproved7684]

I could watch that insulation get sucked out for hours!!! so satisfying!

[@jerome620]

I once had a client here in Kentucky whose house was so air tight there was no natural air circulation. This caused the air inside the house to get stale during spring and fall when the HVAC system would seldom run. So he had us program his automation system to tell his HVAC system to run the fan for an hour 3 times per day just to circulate the air. In an 8,000 sq. ft. house, I'm sure this costs far more than having a little air leakage. Moral of the story, you can go overboard with just about anything and end up costing yourself more money than you're trying to save. A little air leakage is not a bad thing.

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

I understand what you mean; however, air coming from the attic is not where you want the ventilation (dust from toxic stuff like sheetrock, fiberglass, and other glues). Opening a window is a good idea.

[@frogshitjj]

Sure it is. Controlling the air is a far better option.

[@nikolarajkovic3558]

That house should have an erv installed. That way, you have clean and controlled air intake and outtake. So I wouldn't say you can have too much of something in this case it was just improperly planned.

[@Zickcermacity]

@@functionalvanconversion4284 Some folks is just "fresh-air fiends" - they sleep with the bedroom windows open in January in MInnesota!

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

Thank you for putting out this video. This is the 3rd year in a row I am working on a project like this and am still surprised by what I find when you extract the insulation (disconnected bathroom fans, hvac vents disconnected, large penetrations, wasp nests, rodent poo, ect). So important for ice dam prevention. You are next level, i talk with friends of mine who work for insulation companies and they tell me it's industry standard to not do the work right as they make more money on reinstalls.

[@robertmattison1282]

Finally an excellent video made to tell DIY and home owner and to properly insulate this attic space. I really like the graphic that you added in this video. Good Job. I check out the dry ice video before watching your. This video they use dry ice to remove mold in the wood found inside the attic.

[@whitmcclendon2014]

We just got an estimate for our insulation issues and were shocked at how much work is needed. THANK YOU for this video, it really helped me understand a lot more of what's going on up there!

[@W3LDZWORLD]

This was so informative. Some important things to keep in mind if I ever do my attic conversion.

[@jcburwell112]

I enjoyed watching the video to learn what I did wrong in blowing insulation in my attic two summers ago. Now I need to remove it all and do it right. Thanks for the tips and details you shared. Great video doctor!

[@SinnisjInsulator]

The guy who fid the attic insulation did it very wrong when he didn't cover that catwalk. And yes air leaking sealing it important. Fiberglass works best when there is a vapour barrier on the hot side. You can also check my attic insulation videos on my channel.

[@fransiscon]

Great video. I air sealed my attic myself. Didn't want to deal with lazy contractors. Labor is not what it used to be.

[@Iffy50]

You must have bats of insulation? Did you just lift them up and seal under them or did you remove them? If you removed them, what did you do with them?

[@fransiscon]

@@Iffy50 I completely removed the old stuff. Air sealed everything. New insulation.

[@randiemae5022]

Across the board, lazy inexperienced "contractors" are making it hard to do business.

[@tinaharrington4846]

Oh how I wish I had seen and heard all this information before I had insulation added to my attic! Makes so much sense.

[@abacab87]

Don't worry too much, it doesn't make that big a difference.

[@gilikes]

when you place insulation all the way to the corner of the roof where it meets the top plate of the exterior wall, doesn't it prevent fresh air to flow through the attic and might lead to mold buildup?

[@mikehikes710]

Yes u should not be sealing the facia and soffit vents

[@gilikes]

@@mikehikes710 thank you for clarifying

[@IKNOWSQUATCH]

There's a foam material sold that nails to the underside of roof rafters starting above the exterior wall where the birdmouth cut meets the topplate. It prevents insulation from blowing on top of soffit covering. Expensive material depending on sqft. Of attic space covered

[@shawncrocker7037]

Very enlightening! I wouldn't have automatically assumed how important this is! That wind breaker coat example really drove home whats physically happening. Insulation its only for heat transfer. Sealing the cracks is only for physical air transfer.

[@halcampbell1384]

I think the amount of attic sealing savings would be more meaningful if you would do a final blower door test with a window opened to equally match the initial overall loses. The size of an equivalent open window is something that makes the blower door leakage number more meaningful and easier to understand. I hope you will do another video incorporating this suggestion.

[@crcurran]

Do a third blower door test to try to match the initial cfm on the first test? First test 1865 cfm. Second test 1555 cfm after sealing and reinsulating Third test while performing the second test open one window slowly until the blower door reads 1865 cfm again. Measure that window opening and note the dimensions. This makes a lot of sense.

[@AngelaH2222]

Thanks, I was about to just layer a bunch of new insulation over the old, but I'll take a closer look first of all..

[@141641a]

I look at fiberglass insulation and start itching and this guy is playing in it!

[@mikehikes710]

Right and no mask dudes wild lol

[@thecrittergitter7576]

Breathing issues are probably in his future. Not GOOD!!

[@cheynebest7028]

Its collusion he's crawling in... old newspaper

[@GRIM_MOD]

Mike R nah, it’s not proven to cause issues even after 7 major tests done by doctors, to say it’s gonna cause problems has always been speculation

[@dadlaponizil3687]

I'm trying to get my City of Encinitas CA to educate homeowners who are remodeling about comfort and the opportunities they should not miss. I will link this video. Such a shame to miss the opportunity to get a more comfortable house when remodeling--for pennies on the dollar--since hard to access areas like tight attics and cathedral ceilings become accessible. So thank you!!!

[@joecarroll2316]

I would have liked to see how you air sealed the attic access. And why no baffles to prevent ice damning from heat transfer in winter?

[@jimmynolan5291]

Joe Carroll I’m guessing they believe that it’s enough by sealing the exterior wall tops and they might be right.

[@OG_Sanctio]

@@jimmynolan5291 There is still radiant heat transfer. Having your insulation physically touching the roof creates a thermal bridge from your house resulting a freezing/thawing cycle that can will destroy your shingles over a couple winters. You need an air gap to evaporate any condensation and vent warmer air.

[@lindakranak8717]

That's our problem last few years

[@JS-si1cn]

You're saying keep attic airtight but in the UK attic must be ventilated with continuous airflow from the bottom out to the top. Both your theories makes sense.

[@dj_prez-1]

Your video is great and educational. Now that I seen this video, I'm going up my attic to seal it correctly. Thank you.

[@alexmartinezconstruction4476]

I came across this video just in time. I have a client asking me if ADDING more insulation will lower their energy bill and insulate more. We may have to clean out the attic and start fresh. Thank you!

[@bobbg9041]

Ppl this is a 70 year old house, he said some of the insulation was done in the 50's. 1950 to 2019 that's 70 give or take a few years. The walls have very little insulation in them if its lath and plaster it might not have any. If its 1900's the house doesn't have any insulation. 1970s and up started using better insulation but from 1960 to the 1985 it could be asbestos or a form of you do not want to touch it at all. So what you do depends on the homes age and materials used when it was built. This is very important information to know.

[@cerulyse]

My internal walls are made of solid cardboard honeycomb stuff lol

[@slavkochepasov8134]

20:15 I see no rafter baffles to pass air from soffit vents (which this house may not have) but I see big fan that is manifest of inactivate under roof ventilation - this is a source for mold problem. health + $$

[@SillyPutty3700]

Thanks for posting this. I am in the process of remodeling a house and had plans to insulate the attic. I knew about sealing all of the holes drilled in the wall top plates but it never occurred to me to seal the edge of the drywall along the interior walls.

[@ericwilson2186]

Dad always said musty b no insulation in walls but it was the top of the walls that was letting warm air up to attic.thanks for info.just about to blow in attic

[@David-qo6rx]

makes me want to sell my sixty year old home and build a new one, just so I can do all this stuff as I build, so there's easy access to the hard to reach places. These videos are great, it's just common sense stuff.

[@9mmsteve]

As a Residential Real Estate Broker I can tell you new homes are not done much better to want to move only because of insulation and inspectors from county/city are a total joke. To get a C/O our county made us do the pressure test which is probably the best way to see if there is a lot of leaking going on. New homes should be pretty air tight, our new build was however areas still have gaps at small certain spots around doors and bathroom exhaust fans have cold air(in winter) which blow in. Never going to stop it all, just do as much as you can. With a 60 year old house, blow in R48 into attic and you will have a huge difference. Also if you have single pane windows replace with double pane and that also will make a huge difference. Good Luck!

[@whitenite007]

@@9mmsteve he said build a new one and do it right, not buy a new shitty one.

[@RR-rm6ge]

About the 5 minute mark you comment about not "building in" a remodel job, I think you hit the nail on the head there! Some companies know if they do just enough that they will be invited back to do another job and in essence they "build in" that remodel job to keep themselves busy, and that is a shame!

[@sandravanlankvelt7975]

In an energy star testing it was discovered in "new" construction that sealing around the top boards in the basement concrete walls allowed cold air to enter. One other thing was that one of three bathrooms exhaust fan was stuck wide open. Other than those two items everything else was ok including the ceiling attics. The two items were corrected and energy star did a 2nd test was done and it turned out great. The outer wall outlets were also installed with felt on the backside of the outlet covers. These outer walls outlets or even wall switches allow a massive amount of cold air to leak into the home during the harsh winters in Wisconsin. Yes recessed lights leak like a sieve for sure.

[@MrCguzma3]

You're a good man Dr. Energy Saver. hear hear....

[@mikejoyce9235]

Don't forget that the "A" priority is also that way because of the stack effect.

[@waynekinoshita6099]

Mike Joyce has

[@traonvouez]

minus 50 pascals makes leak happen from everywhere in the house, having no leaks to the attic only leaves leaks from one side to the other side of the house, and that is rally smaller in terms of energy costs

[@Skilla206]

Learned a lot from the video. Thanks for your time making this I know it wasn’t easy!

[@johnhowell5641]

Have done the same thing with tacking single ply aluminum foil to the bottom of roof rafters, leaving gaps at the top to allow below air to get out of continuous ridge venting. It puts a shade tree over your house in the summer, and pounds the heat back down into the house in the winter, through radiant blocking of the aluminum foil. Caveat is you need to have continuous eaves venting too.

[@DILIGENTASSET7]

The blower door test does not just the ceiling air leaks --- the entire house needs all floor and wall penetrations sealed also.

[@reeferdogbassin7909]

Now that you have removed the "natural" whole house fan, are you going to replace it with an electric 300cfm fan? lol! Sealing the attic is the only thing I would seal, just me, but those natural drafts are what bring fresh air into the house. They seal houses up so tight these days that there is no airflow in new homes. This leads to very dirty air in the house, filled with all the latest new chemicals such as spray foam fumes! lol Glad to see he wasnt pushin that crap! You did a great job explaining the importance of sealing up the attic! Keep up the good work!

[@Ed1Ward]

When you turn on that big attic fan. Doesn't it move the insulation all over the place?

[@robertbennett6697]

Nope, it all goes outside.

[@brolsonmusic]

Why didn't you put any ventilation insulation barriers against the roof joists extending above the insulation. Shouldn't there be room for air to move along the roofline?

[@MaryRoseGrace]

Thank you! This is the video I have been looking for. Thank you for the science AND the practical how-to information.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Any thoughts about this particular issue? Home manufactured in 1973. First had blown insulation in the attic around 2006. Then some years later in 2009, all brand new Pella double pane windows throughout the entire home. The following year in 2010, recycled insulation was blown inside of the walls by using a hole saw on the exterior, and then a 1/2" layer of foam board was installed over the existing wood siding, with plastic barrier and then vinyl siding applied over top of the sandwich. The original wood siding was not removed, as the contractor thought that the additional layer would help with the insulating properties. This home is MUCH more insulated, very quiet, and a lot warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Much, much more energy efficient than it ever was. But we were noticing drafts around the window frames. The contractor did an excellent job of sealing up the window frames with expanding foam and some sort of tar looking type of tape. I saw this with my own eyes and took photographs during the process. But I am not sure where this air is coming IN from? The contractor applied silicone around the window on the inside to stop air leakage. But I am afraid that this did not stop the draft at the "source" but rather at the "exit." This was some years ago. I do not notice any drafts, but I still wonder, where was this air coming IN from? In all of your videos I notice you mention that air is ESCAPING in the winter time, but not coming IN through gaps and cracks. Any thoughts? Many thanks! PS, the home is a tri-level with a basement. Sometimes called a quad-level depending on who you talk two. It is offset into two sections with one floor below and one floor above on each side of the home. Essentially, there are two concrete slabs, one in the basement, and one on the second lowest level of the home.

[@doomaster4]

+Blaine Bugaski if you havent figured out where the leak is try using a very light powder in a bottle you can squeeze then squeeze some of the powder so it makes a small cloud around the window. the tar and silicone is probably window glaze. If the window opens by sliding it could be the track or the separation of the windows.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Jason T The windows do slide up and down, but they also have a felt gasket. They are Pella brand so they aren't junk, but they are the vinyl windows, so I guess they aren't at the top end of Pella's lineup.

[@doomaster4]

+Blaine Bugaski i would try the smoke test with any light powder.

[@Guillotines_For_Globalists]

Jason T The only problem is, the contractor came back when the complaint was originally given and used silicone between the drywall and window frames all throughout the home. That seemed to help as the drafts went away. But the source of the drafts was never discovered and he was quite baffled. I'm thinking that it has to originate somewhere in the attic where somehow air is getting into the walls from above. There aren't any drafts in the basement, as it is fully block with concrete floor, not open to outside elements.

[@doomaster4]

The attic does have a lot of gaps from what I'm reading. If the attic was never sealed (air sealing) and insulation just put in then the openings from drywall to the wall frames will allow air up the walls. You will need caulk pref high temp near lights etc. move the insulation out of the cavity you are checking then check the top of the wall for caulk if theres none then its likely the air is going up the wall.

[@millerurbanhomesteading8632]

What about bringing fresh air in with a louver and duct to return air.. . To keep air inside from becoming stagnant?.. I know it is controlled .....fresh air into living space is a good thing.....

[@joemc111]

I always lived in an old house, 71 now. My hobby for over 30 years is Genealogy. Lots of those sealed homes might not be that good for your health. A little fresh air is good when your cooped up in the winter. My relatives that live in new homes always have more colds then I do. Nice show.

[@Sean-ll5cm]

Air moment helps prevent moisture build up, which prevents mold. Unless you have proper vents installed, stopping 100% of the airflow doesn't seem like the best idea

[@danamennerich3282]

good info, I know my house leaks a lot but not as much as those around me cause my roof holds snow the longest!! I always thought it was good for a house to leak for better air quality on the inside, is there any concern about sealing too much? thanks

[@StegerMatthew]

Good video... as a home inspector of almost 20 years, I always recommend that my clients add more attic insulation and air seal.

[@joheffernan7216]

When I pulled back the cellulose from my ceiling, in July-in SC, I could feel a breeze when standing on the ceiling joists. I was flabbergasted. Really steady breeze coming from electrical boxes and gaps in sheet rock that you would never see from below. Add a pressure differential say positive pressure in living space and you could be blowing your electric bill down the toilet, or more precisely into the attic. A bead seal via expanded polyurethane is good, a 1-2-3 to more inches of sprayed foam to the entire sheet rock surface is a super way to make the most of a rather un-fun project -very worth while. Spraying foam on the roof deck is asking for trouble for a number of good reasons. Trapped moisture tween shingles and foam, then fixing the rot before the roof collapses, the first and last symptoms. Plus roasting your shingles daily since there is no or little cooling from your possibly 180-200 degree deck by reducing radiant cooling into the attic.

[@ThePdub55]

Awesome! i forwarded to my mom who just had her attic done. i'm sure they didn't vacuum out and air seal before adding more insulation.

[@888hope888]

He actually made a big mistake: he sealed with the insulator the soffits' intake airways. An attic’s intake vents are most commonly installed directly in the soffit, either as individual vents spaced every few feet or as one continuous perforated soffit running the entire length of the eave. While effective at pulling in cooler air, the biggest problem posed by this type of soffit vents is their positioning: Homeowners can too easily inadvertently block them when insulating the attic. Unfortunately, blocked soffit vents are as just bad as no soffit vents, because they prevent fresh air from freely flowing into the attic.

[@livingthelife2wice]

They should've installed baffles to bring in fresh air from the soffits its all good in the winter but in the summer that attic is gonna be like 200 degrees

[@love_moose6811]

They didn't show any ventilated soffits when he was crawling along the sides of the attic sealing floorboards, and when they show the exterior underside of the eaves at 10:41, there's no evidence of the soffits being ventilated (no holes or slits that I can see). Seems to me like this attic doesn't have ventilated soffits. There's a wall-mounted fan (probably pulling air from the outside) that I think is serving the intake ventilation function that a soffit normally would and then a grated vent on the wall of the other side of the attic that's likely serving a passive outtake function. So, I don't think he did anything wrong. This guy seems quite knowledgeable, professional, and passionate. He's probably the kind of person who sees the work that he does as an extension of himself. I doubt he'd screw something up that badly and post a video of it online.

[@fukwhatyousayingithere834]

If he has a place with a ridge vent, he wouldn't need those side vents.

[@danmoehagen7376]

Good explanation. Also, when the can lights are turned on, they leak even more because the heat from the light increases the "chimney effect", drawing more air from the house than they do when turned off. I liked the "A-B-C" priority thinking...I'm wondering if you have any "multiplier" that could be used, based on observable and measurable before/after energy usage, that could be applied. In other words, is attic sealing that reduces total leakage by 20% twice as effective as sidewall sealing that also reduces total leakage by 20%? Three times? I'm too old to crawl in attics anymore. But I've done a ton of this kind of work, and air sealing was always what I addressed first. Sure was nice when foam-in-a-can was developed! I always used cellulose, too. Better R-value, not as irritating to work with as fiberglass or mineral wool (which we called "miserable wool), ecologically great (recycled paper!) fire and vermin proof and cheaper than other products. Anyway...good presentation. Thank you!

[@carvalone3076]

This explains a LOT about my house. So disappointing to buy your dream home and find all the half ass work. I could just cry

[@AlvlUpSavedMyLife]

Wow you could have not said it any better. I did my final walkthrough and I never knew about any of these things, boy do I have a lot of work to do :(

[@pmgodfrey]

We are not allowed to fire barrier spray foam in St. Louis County, Missouri. The code reads; "No spray foam products are allowable. Fire-rated caulk may be acceptable, if applied in a workmanlike manner." The intumescent caulk is a bear to deal with, especially on large areas, particularly the sheet metal that must cover the gaps around plumbing vents.

[@facethewind]

I would love to see before/after leakage readings for the various things that were done. i.e, how much CFM's did sealing the tops of the walls save? How much did sealing the can lights save? I would hope you have done these types of analysis so that you know how effective these prevention measures are, so that you aren't making customers pay for work that won't help them.

[@jgdog011]

thank you. my house is new and checking in the attack there was slight frosting and dripping from the nails. yes I am the home owner going to move all the insulation to correct bad air flow. a lot of work for sure.

[@kendaleklund7475]

jgdog01 you need more attic ventilation! Increase the soffit vents so they are larger sq ft than your ridge or roof vent. You may need an attic fan with a humidistat to vent the attic if the humidity gets too high when the temp approaches freezing! PS your attic vents may be plugged or you may have excessive humidity in your living area.

[@alankluttz4400]

I wish you would have shown your process for the insulated platform (storage/walk deck). ** Specifically did you install a plywood/OSB sheet on top of the joists and the insulation board on top of that or did you sit the insulation board directly on top of the joists?

[@stevenowens4511]

I'm trying to make a check list of things to seal, am I missing anything? - top plates on inside walls - top plates on outside walls - light fixtures - can light cover where applicable - any wire penetrations - any pipe penetrations - bathroom fans - furnace exhaust if applicable (my furnace exhausts through the attic) - attic access hatch

[@julieankhan.2801]

I found my windows (some) didnt have calling or any type of insulation put in. Garage door int3o the house and light switches needed those insulation pads out in. Helped a lot after they were done.

[@fineartbymattphilleo]

Thank you. I never understood the concept of how air from the bottom of the house won't leak in unless air leaves the attic first.

[@larryjanesky8185]

Robert, if you create a conditioned attic with spray foam you do not need to air seal the attic floor. That is an entirely different method. If there was an air handler or ducts in the attic that method would be preferable.

[@sherylnapier6020]

Hi Larry…just doing some research and came across your comment. Would you mind explaining what a "conditioned attic" is? Thanks, from Maine, USA

[@stevefifield1207]

@sheryl napier insulating and sealing at the roof decking - like spray foaming the under side of your roof. The normal thermal envelope (the conditioned air space of your home) is normally the interior rooms and would stop at the top of your ceiling - the insulation is on the attic floor with the purpose to keep conditioned air from getting past the interior ceiling/attic floor. Move that insulation to the top of the attic / bottom of the roof and you've expanded the thermal envelope to now include your attic - you're attic is now getting air-conditioned in the summer and heated in the winter. This is normally a crap idea, but if you shove all your HVAC equipment up in the attic, and it's ductwork is going to be leaky, they will often do this. You're playing the numbers game of how much efficiency is lost in leaky ductwork vs. the additional square footage that now has to be heated/cooled.

[@sherylnapier6020]

Got it, thanks!

[@billybassman21]

Here in Texas we have the big flying roaches. They often get into people's homes and those can recessed lights are a common entry. Those gaps between the drywall also allow them to come down the wall and find a way into the space. If you seal the attic up so nothing but air can get in and seal up entry points in the attic to the space, you'll never have an issue with bugs or rodents.

[@BradyFish]

Texan here. I had a roach get in to my house through the recessed light. I think it was through the junction box attached to the recessed light. How much foam can you spray in the actual light in your opinion?

[@juliovaldez5468]

Thank you for this extremely valuable information! I wish billions of views and all the revenue that may come with that!

[@G8rrett]

I don't see how anyone could not like this. It's an expensive video lesson. Thx

[@fuscia13]

Reminds me of my attic where either the owner or his lame contractor just blew cellulose over everything that was up there. Including loosely strewn planks that where being stored and worst all the squirrel nests that where up there. In other words they never cleaned before they did it. What can I do? I hate the cellulose it falls out of the attic and into the chimney. It's so messy!!!!

[@matthew8153]

fuscia A Tim Taylor type of vacuum. MORE POWER

[@carvalone3076]

Same here...I'm just so....ugh, want to cry

[@karenanderson7183]

Very informative. Question: What about baffles to the exterior soffits? I heard that was important.

[@bobhaddock957]

noticed no air baffles from eve vents up between roof rafters? does this attic space not breathe ?

[@vulcan1429]

Bob Haddock I noticed that too. He blew the insulation right in there and said NOTHING!

[@Ariccio123]

Bob Haddock big fat gable vents

[@johnwayne2103]

did you miss that big ass fan they had in the attic?

[@ronyerke9250]

I hope they keep that gable fan in good condition for the summer.

[@bastardo323]

@@johnwayne2103 whats that suppose to do to an attic?

[@mjay512]

It seems to be unanimous that a house should be air sealed well, but I worry because a friends parents had their house done, so it was airtight and even the weather stripping on the doors was redone to keep out the cold air. They turned on the wood burning stove. In the morning the neighbor went over to find that the husband had passed out on the couch dead and the wife was close. The firemen said the stove was not malfunctioning, but there was no air circulation. He died of carbon monoxide poisoning and she had to have intense Oxygen therapy.

[@OKmetrologist]

It's a dirty shame builders do such a crappy job building a house, it would probably only take 1 to 2 hours "before" the insulation is blown in to seal a house.

[@pa.fishpreacher6166]

they only do what is required by code. on an older house, there weren't any inspections, codes such. So its not that all builders do a "crappy job" just my oppinion

[@t0kinl3lunts]

@@mlinjac This house probably wasn't built using substandard for the time., but it does look like some hacks came in recently and did a crappy job re-re-insulating. I know some contractors will build to a price, but they should have either passed on the job due to lack of experience, or passed due to budget constraints.

[@DH-sc1tu]

@KelMaster Construction I listened to the video and from experience years ago- I had purchased a new Skyline mobile home. The ceilings were literally dripping moisture. The reason? The home was built TOO TIGHT. I was impressed that Skyline had built to such high standards, however, there was nowhere for moisture inside the home to escape from, say- breathing. They came out and put vents in 2 or 3 places in the ceilings (at no charge) and the problem was solved and there was no significant change in our utility bill. A home can be sealed too tight, in my opinion.

[@bobbg9041]

They dont care, but this was an older house.

[@bobbg9041]

@@mlinjac He said the oldest insulation was done in the 50's. That would make this house 70 years old.

[@staceyferron5987]

What is the best foam to use? Also I would love to see what a top plate looks like and how you sealed it!

[@paddle_shift]

Wow, just by reducing air leakage at the top of the house reduced air leaks by almost 20%! Impressive, oh, and $5,000.

[@benreber2277]

Paddle Shift yes but better than paying yearly in heating fuel. My dads house in pa cost $1800 to heat with bad insulation job. New stuff I put in is saving him about $800 a year now. Winter kills with the cost of oil if you don’t have good insulation.

[@paddle_shift]

@@benreber2277 $800 savings per year gives you payback in 6.25 years. Not bad I guess. Do what you can for your pops, right? 😊

[@timgleason2527]

What’s terrifying is that if you did this yourself it could be a couple hundred bucks...

[@dlacr]

@@benreber2277 and the wear and tear on the heating system will shorten the lifespan of the system leading to a costly early replacement.

[@wisewoman7906]

This is all good for a regular "house" but I'm trying to do insulation on a shed-to-house, which is constructed differently. Sheds need to breathe to reduce chance of moisture/mold.

[@RearAdmiralTootToot]

2:38 And so it is, my attic shall be insulated with jackets!

[@dadlaponizil3687]

Music to my quality-building ears. Thank you!!!

[@TedKidd]

Yep, you can get a cheaper price by doing it incorrectly. But then you'll pay 3x that price undoing and then getting it done correctly. Another nice video Larry.

[@HomePerformance]

Right on- you get what you pay for, and you pay for what you get.

[@IcarusAnneRiley]

Sometimes it a bitch to know what's good and what isn't. I've some friends who learned a lot when they let a guy convince them it was safe to pressure wash their cedar shake roof...

[@toriless]

...or inherit from the previous owner. I have had to fix a lot of thing done wrong by previous owners.

[@toriless]

OUCH!

[@JohnRogersHeartwood]

Although Larry's video is somewhat informative, I thought the same about the missing baffles and the unnecessary disposal of the previous insulation. I would have also added a sealed attic door, without the option of storage, as the loss of insulation at that area would be a shame.

[@FrankCarrOwnerInspectorFCHI]

Love this guys thoroughness. We see this all the time, when a contractor just blows in additional insulation and does not seal the air gaps. Air sealing in the attic has the biggest impact on home energy losses. Have to agree with previous comments about baffles at the eves. Rodent dropping is a concern but if you have dropping you have urine. Rodent urine has pheromones' that attract other rodents. Once in the insulation you are always at risk of attracting other rodents. Covering up rat saturated insulation only attracts additional rodents and increases the risk of things like diseases spread by rats. Rodents, such as mice and rats, can leave droppings that can spread bacteria, contaminate food, and cause allergic reactions. Droppings can also spread diseases and viruses such as the following: Hantavirus; “Hantavirus is a potentially life-threatening disease transmitted to humans by rodents. People become infected through exposure or inhalation of infected rodent urine, droppings or saliva, and the chances increase when people are near spaces where rodents are actively living.” Bubonic plague; spread by the bite of an infected rodent flea and can cause fever, headache and painfully swollen lymph nodes.” Salmonellosis; Salmonellosis is a type of food poisoning spread by rodent feces, especially through the consumption of contaminated food. Symptoms include diarrhea, fever and abdominal pain.” Rat-Bite Fever; “Rat-bite fever (RBF) is a potentially fatal infectious disease spread by infected rodents or the consumption of food contaminated by rodents.” facebook.com/notes/first-choice-home-inspections-llc/energy-conservation-in-florida-homes/2120971894596571/?notif_id=1521639804619521&notif_t=page_post_reaction&ref=notif Show less Reply

[@erikcable1755]

the guys working in the attic are a dime a dozen to hire,,,so who cares if they give up the ship and get sick and die???

[@brianmonahan1654]

If Dr Energy has done all attics this way,they will all rot .There must be a "swept roof"to vent the attic.Every bay must have "proper vent",and outside, all soffits vented.

[@lildannefantom6195]

Wrong

[@JohnRogersHeartwood]

Wrong!@@lildannefantom6195

[@lildannefantom6195]

@@JohnRogersHeartwood Condensation in my experience rots a roof deck. Projects done 30 years ago that we're properly air sealed and insulated has no rot. So experience not theories prove your wrong.

[@philindeblanc]

you could have a gable fan with humidity and thermo sensor.

[@globetrotter8556]

Does air sealing attics trap moisture and thus promotes mold and fungus?

[@coffeyvid]

Good video, but I had to turn off the sound and turn on the closed captioning.

[@SinnisjInsulator]

Hey I have a new attic insulation channel you can also checkout. I install mostly loose fill and film using a GoPro.

[@tannarbuck7908]

Yeah I am not a fan of the music either

[@kimcup5000]

Wish you lived near me! My house is a mess with tons of air flow and it's freezing in the winter. Thanks for the great video.

[@SinnisjInsulator]

If you would like you can also checkout my channel for tips on loose fill insulation. Every home should have an r60 just to cover those bathroom fans and potlight covers with at least an r32.

[@addythefatty6354]

I love your work but what happens when a security man comes along to extend a 4 camera system to an 8? Sometimes finding that open pull they may have left is key!

[@PongoXBongo]

Hand them a can of spray foam to take up there with them. I used to carry one when I did cable TV installations.

[@Towervu]

I just had what I thought was a good company put a ton of insulation in my 50s house that formerly had radiant heat in the floor but now has ductwork in the Attic and they dumped a ton of blown-in cellulose and still the snow just melts off my roof in areas. I didn't know anything about sealing.

[@Mark1Guy]

Very conscientious installation. I wonder what the job cost? I would love to see what it looks like in that attic when that huge exhaust fan is running.

[@toriless]

A grey snow storm.

[@brichard9485]

Some idea of the payback period would be helpful. What % savings on your HVAC, and roughly how much does this "right way" cost?