THIS is Why Your Heat Bill is So High

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Thank you for watching. My son, Matt and I have been having the best time renovating my 1970s home. I can’t wait for all of you to watch the new videos. If you found this video helpful please subscribe so you don’t miss the new series. How to repair a rotten rim joist coming out in a few weeks. Cheers!

[@Pallidus_Rider]

Videos go well with weekend morning coffee ☕ ✌️😎👍

[@ainekoaineko1733]

Nice detail! I’ve been told to use fire code foam between the top plate and sill above the rigid insulation. Fiddly install but it means you get continuous fire blocking. Your 2 cents?

[@SeaJay_Oceans]

Just cover it in Rock Wool, then spray the Closed Cell on the rockwool... sealed and insulated all at the same time.

[@jackechan1311]

Thanks, Jeff and Matt!

[@don9270]

Did you to read any of the safety information that came with your spray foam? You should have been wearing a full face respirator with cartridges rated to handle isocyanates, as well as a Tyvek or similar suit with integrated hood and booties, and appropriate gloves that are ideally taped to the suit. Isocyanates are nasty stuff and you do not to breathe them in or allow them to come in contact with your skin. Look up isocyanate sensitization. There is a reason the pros are completely covered from head to toe when using that stuff.

[@leskerf]

Interesting video. I did not know this spray foam insulation was now supplied in bulk to the consumer. Although a great opportunity to save money, you must know the risks and protect yourself. I am a chemical engineer and a former process engineer for a polyurethane (PU) foam manufacturer. PU foam is made from some form of isocyanate (your 'tank1') reacted with a polyol, catalysts, and a little water (your 'tank 2'). When the two parts are mixed, the isocyanate reacts with the polyol to form polyurethane and with the water to create CO2. The CO2 causes the reacting polyurethane to expand into foam. The catalysts speed everything up so the foam cures quickly at room temperature. This is why it has to be supplied in two tanks and mixed at the point of application. Isocyanates and their catalysts are toxic, carcinogenic (causes cancer) and cause severe irritation to the skin, eyes, lungs, and mucous membranes. They can also 'sensitize' so that if you are exposed in the future you have an allergic reaction that can stop your breathing due to anaphylaxis. The reaction also releases a lot of heat so the expanding foam can cause severe burns to the skin and eyes, risking blindness. I urge anyone planning to work with this to wear a protective suit with a hood, a chemical respirator, face shield, and heavy gloves. Make arrangements to ventilate the work space during application and while the foam is curing. Keep family members and pets out of the space until the smell is gone to be sure they don't get exposed. I'm sure there are more guidelines in the SDS and other instructions for the products, which you should read and follow carefully. It's great to save money by DIY. I do a lot of DIY but I make sure not to get hurt or poisoned otherwise it's not worth it. Please be careful and stay safe.

[@holylabs]

Great info. I was wondering if a mask should have been worn while spraying. In your opinion do you feel it’s safe once it’s completely dried and aired out? Do you think there may be a any potential for further harm if the basement got extremely hot and made the foam release any chemicals?

[@kyletrusler4565]

This really reflects the major issue with this channel, he seems to always omit all the safety considerations and PPE from the video. Sometimes its only regarding using proper gloves or eyewear, but this one in particular was egregious. Considering many use this as a breakdown on how to tackle DIY projects and then goes to showing how to use these kits completely unsafe, really leaves it up to everyone to properly read all the warnings and ignore what he shows.

[@americanpancakelive]

Thanks for your learned opinion, I was freaking out in my mind when no lung protection was being worn. I worked in the plastic industry for 14 years and know something about the dangers etc.

[@chrisforgan731]

if you ever watch any of the video put of by mike homes. the insulation contractor is in a tyvek coverall and a full face respirator while he is applying the foam. some isocyanates are so toxic you have had a over a month worth of safe exposure levels before you have any symptoms. they are cyanide compounds nasty stuff. its also in paints and adhesives too. there is iso free formulations for some products

[@cucumberlumber1463]

thank yo for this! ive become more skeptical of these products we use in our houses and the health risks. I personally would never use poly foam in my own home. I think mineral wool is a much more environmentally and human friendly option

[@megamouse4093]

My man, you’re the reason I’ve gotten better at repairs and projects. Please never stop!

[@Vercingetorix525]

I soldered for the first time by myself a few years back. I had at least 8 joints to do and none of them leaked when I was done. This channel helped me out most with that project!

[@FLPhotoCatcher]

I have experience building, and he's over-hyping the spray foam somewhat. For people who don't have a lot of money, spray foam is not the way. He also exaggerated the negative effect of a small bit of air leakage that might occur around or under the sill plate. A lot of houses have a foam pad under the sill plate that is very effective at stopping air. Even the tar paper, with the weight of the house helping flatten the sill plate, will be a fairly air tight construction. If it's not good enough, it can be caulked. And there is the health toll that spray foam could exact on the occupants, and the installer. All the effects are not yet known, but I do not want to gamble with my health.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

This is just the beginning of my forever home series. I am very grateful to have the opportunity to share my life experiences and it humbles me to know that folks are finding the videos helpful. Cheers to you for making the effort to learn.

[@Half_Man_Half_Bearpig]

​@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Perfect timing, we're starting to look for our forever home! Also, ditto to the person's comment. I gutted my entire kitchen, living room, and bathroom (plus built a nice deck and pergola) watching a lot of your videos. It's also nice that I happen to be in Ottawa and the building conventions transfer 1:1!

[@GameHEADtime]

Getting good and get you rich and amazing at things.

[@iangraham1345]

WARNING!!...I have a problem/question regarding the spray foam only insulation technique. In the UK spray insulation was/is a big thing and has been for a decade or two. The issue is that now a lot of mortgage companies will refuse to mortgage a house with spray foam insulation in the roof or at least without a proper roof survey. The issue is with a survey is that the spray foam completely conceals the wood that is holding up your house., so without removing the foam you can not see what is behind it, if you remove it, you have the costs to respray. There was a structural engineer on Jeremy Vine, UK, Radio 2 talking about this issue two days ago. The spray foam, depending on what type it is can let moisture/keep moisture against the wood causing it to rot quicker. I am by no means an expert but I am renovating a UK Grade 2 listed building, lime built in 1730 (before America!!).. so I know a little of the importance of airflow and breathability. Bottom line, do lots of home work before you start spraying this insulation as it is not all good and definitely if it is put in badly or in the wrong place it can lead to serious issues with your house structure in months years. P.S. I do watch, like and pick up tips from this channel. This one I just think you need to be wary, as said, in the UK spray foam is an issue for mortgaging.

[@Heliosvector]

You would only get more water traped against the wood to make it rot faster if there are leaks. Could you not get the roof inspected first before the foam is sprayed on?

[@BobHannent]

​@@Heliosvector Are you saying that in the future the roof will never get a leak? Because you can get a roof leak which is undetected. Or just humidity in the roofing material.

[@Zuginator]

I watched a video about it and it looks like a lot of bad companies did work shoddily. Because they often used the wrong foam and sealed it badly causing rot. It's not a "spray foam is bad", it's "badly installed and badly retrofitted is bad"

[@denniswilliams2385]

You are 100% correct, what a lot of people don’t get is that attics are designed to breathe because air in and of itself contains moisture and when you seal off the attic, that moisture has nowhere to go. When moisture has nowhere to go it causes rot and more importantly, toxic mold.

[@xTheZapper]

This is correct, I've seen a number of stories recently saying banks will refuse a mortgage if there is spray foam insulation. Part of the problem is that the spray foam installers use predatory tactics on older people who seem to just believe what the salesman is saying. I recently had to convince my Mum not to go ahead with a spray foam install she'd been conned into agreeing to, the guy had told her all sorts of lies like it's "Government backed" and "They use this in Canada". When she phoned to cancel it they told her they'd already mixed the foam and would do it for half price if she went ahead, this is 2 part foam that is mixed at the nozzle at the point of spraying! Absolute scam.

[@sergioleone4215]

I live in the Chicago area. Before I sealed off the two outside air vents and insulated the rim joists, the crawlspace temperature would get down to the mid 30's in the winter. I have copper water lines running through the crawlspace and was always worried that they would freeze and burst. I used Owens Corning Foamular R10 rigid foam boards and Great Stuff expanding foam. After the job was complete, the crawlspace now stays an average of 63 degrees all year round. If you haven't done this job yet, do it.

[@CactusJack252]

I got my crawlspace enscuplated with a dehumidifer, etc. Even on the coldest days here in Virginia, I have only seen it drop to the low 60's and that is after it has been below 20 degrees at night for over a week.

[@tylertjaden3965]

Did you do a vapor barrier? I am in Iowa and want to do this. I was thinking of doing just the foam and spray but the only thing I am unsure of is a plastic sheet first or not

[@sergioleone4215]

@@tylertjaden3965 I did not use a vapor barrier as I'm pretty sure that the rigid foam board acts as one.

[@LuckysLair]

On the topic of "don't wanna burn your house down". That is a real deal issue with overdoing the layers of foam, I was a firefighter for 20 years, a couple years before I retired I took a day off....a rare thing for me.... and later that day I started getting text photos from friends asking if I was on duty, that there was a huge fire at a mansion on the Southside of town. Turns out that mansion, which was later demolished, was in the process of being remodeled.... and a crew was using spray foam in the attic spaces. While they had been working on the spray job, they took a lunch break, then 15 minutes or so later someone noticed the smell of smoke, went to investigate, and found fire raging thru the attic spaces. It was a large home, with lots of very high vaulted ceilings in various areas.....meaning it was difficult for the ceilings to be opened up and water applied in many parts of the home where the fire had spread. So lesson here, take your time and layer it like the host of the video mentioned.

[@cour2knee]

Or just don’t use spray- cancer, safety and now mortgage issues makes it undesirable at this point

[@notcherbane3218]

Thank you, You just may have saved a bunch of people's homes and lives

[@Ihatecabinetmoths]

Clearly this guy has no idea what he’s doing. He doesn’t even wear a mask with vapor cartridges and failed to use a wrench until it came out. The spray foam catching fire thing is only a risk when using a real proportioner machine that uses a heated house and gets up to 200+ degrees of heat. The diy kits set up in one minute and are usually used for large cavities when the real stuff can’t be used. You can spray that entire cardboard box the tank comes in, cut it open with a bread knife, and there will be no charring.

[@L.R.KNIGHT]

Yeah this is the worst thing to possibly do to a house. Not only is it a tremendous fire danger, but it is a reckless and tremendously conducive condition for termites, would destroying insects, would destroying fungi and moisture damage that you will never see. I remember when these foam applications were first becoming a big thing about 15 to 20 years ago and it was the absolute most stupidest thing I have ever witnessed in my life

[@4th_and_Long]

Thank you for letting us know that it was rare for you to take a day off. It helped drive the narrative of the story just that much more

[@als7594]

I did my rim joist back in October, sealing the gaps using a Great Stuff Pro Gun, plus mineral wool R-23, and sealing it with foam board, R-7.5. Mine was a nightmare when I decided to do it. They had stuffed one piece of R-13 insulation in the slots. When I pulled the insulation out and vacuumed out the area the sun was setting on the back side of the house. The next morning the sun was on the front of the house when I went down to start the project. I was seeing light at the end on three sides of every joist left, right, and top. After sealing it, the big change I saw over the first month in my lower level, was a drop in the humidity level. Before sealing the rim joist I was consistently seeing the humidity levels around 75% to 80%. In fact the guy that did my home inspection back when I bought the house, suggested that I put a dehumidifier in my lower level. I'm looking at the humidity gauge, it's sitting at 50%. Was it worth all the work? You betcha.

[@incognitotorpedo42]

I had a similar thing. I was re-siding a gable wall, and noticed that I could see through a gap right into the room. There was no insulation at all in the wall, and the bays were open to unconditioned attic air at the base. It was comically bad. I fixed all of it. The room is SO much nicer to be in now. I used to freeze in the winter and bake in the summer. Now it's just nice. That's the most rewarding kind of job.

[@scrivyscriv]

@@incognitotorpedo42 I agree the money-saving aspect of energy efficiency is great and all, but the real benefit is being able to enjoy our space comfortably!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

the secret is in the air sealing of that space. the leakiest part of the house causes drafts which in turn cause us to raise our thermostat to stay comfortable. cheers to everyone who tackles this project. without a doubt one of the things that has a dramatic effect. Cheers!

[@Dan-nz2iw]

At first I read rimjob not rim joist

[@budnspud]

Do you have to wear a mask while spraying large areas?

[@Dannymurmaid]

Thanks man. I remodeled my house and if I didn’t completely understand from your videos.. I learned what things were called to do more research. My utility bills are now half of what there were. Even better than the savings is the house is so comfortable!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Well done! Cheers to you and the hard work you put in.

[@dmkaeding]

Rockwool is an excellent compromise between cheap fiberglass insulation and expensive spray foam. It has added benefits of fire resistance, won't hold water, and critters won't make a nest in it too. I do agree sealing air gaps is very important.

[@SnargleflarpMasetblugp]

We did 2" of closed cell foam sheets and 6" of rockwool in our new ceiling. Hardly gets hot in the summer and barely gets cold in the winter.

[@Chris_at_Home]

Foam is worth the extra cost. We have a 3400 sq foot duplex we heat with 600 gallons of heating oil and a cord of wood in the winter in Alaska. We also have double stud walls. Another benefit is when we had a 7.1 earthquake we had no cracks in the drywall.

[@scotteric8711]

Rockwool is superior. Its fire resistant too. The only consequence is price.

[@nedcramdon1306]

@@SnargleflarpMasetblugp Hardly barely? I wish!

[@Sandra-Armstrong]

Can this be done in a crawl space? Our home was built in the 1940's with 2x4's and it's really sturdy, but it's also drafty. I know there's only so much we can do, but making the inside spaces more comfortable for the long term, is our priority.

[@truesouthdesigns4304]

I love using Rockwool. It's easy to install, fire-resistant, has high insulation, and isn't toxic. It's a much better product than fiberglass and foam spray.

[@ubergigglefritz]

Would this be good for putting up after the walls have already been finished and the floor done (no ceiling yet)? I don't want to make a mess, but I've been wondering about the gap between the floor joists not being sealed or insulated (just the insulation horizontally between the joists ending at the block wall) and this confirms my concern... Just cut blocks of the rockwool and stuff in each section? Thanks!

[@badopinion]

Word! Foam has limited use on my projects. Easy in easy out I always say when it comes to vapor. Closed cell creates more problems than it solves in my opinion.

[@tinamuchesko8631]

do you know an insulation company who installs the Rockwool product in Lincoln County of NC?

[@Cotronixco]

Rock wool does not provide a seal.

[@AmazonWebService98]

​@@tinamuchesko8631anyone who does fiberglas can do Rockwool

[@martik778]

My basement walls and ceiling were finished with sheetrock (no insulation in the walls!) So I drilled 2" holes and filled the wall cavities with cellulose using a rented blower. Difference was significant. I only need 1/3 the wattage to heat the same space and the whole house was more comfortable. Also added 12" to the attic, air sealed what I could, replaced furnace with 94%+ and changed to low-e windows. My total heating gas bill is now ~$700 per year on a 3000sqft house in metro Vancouver! (was 2-3x before the renos)

[@stringlarson1247]

I work with various foams (insulation, PU water stop, and expoxy resins from SealBoss - pro-grade, as well as adhesives). I have a love/hate relationship with the stuff, especially for a large application such as a basement or whole house. The fumes during application really require a NIOSH N95 or N100 respirator and not just a simple 'dust mask'. Also, if you don't work with this stuff often and are not well-prepped for the process, it's easy to get a lot of mess. It's also really easy to accidentally apply to a spot where you don't want it (roughed in elect. plumbing and HVAC fixtures). Another factor to consider is future upgrades and/or repairs to electrical., plumbing, and HVAC, as the foam can turn a simple fix, change, or addition into a much more time-consuming (read, expensive) job as cutting that stuff out is a PITA. I'm also not a big fan of the off-gassing of these materials, as well as all of the synthetic carpeting and furniture many people install in their new homes, additions, and remodeling. Same with foam board. Once you seal up a room(s) and don't take the time to air it out every so often during the winter or summer, your air quality will drop not just from the foam but from used/recirculated air, dust, and general human and pet stuff. Just so you know, please check with your homeowner's insurance regarding foam insulation. I've been reading lately that in the UK (US?), some insurers are 'frowning' on homes with spray foam insulation. Definitely worth taking the time to research that aspect. Personally, I'm using a combination of foam for filling cracks/edges and R30 fiberglass on my 1913-built home in the upper Midwest. Talk about leaky. Anyway, good video on the basics/history of building and insulation, etc.

[@user-hm5zb1qn6g]

I would be a million bucks that the spray-foam garbage will be the Urea Formaldehyde or asbestos of the coming decades. Won't get insurance without remediation. Will be a latent material defect that needs to be disclosed. Will be the subject of class action lawsuits.

[@Vultrux]

From what I have read so far for UK is that insurers are dropping coverage if you install spray foam because the contractors are doing it incorrectly. You're taking a 80+ year old home that was built to breathe to ensure that any framing or sheathing, or attic space was ventilated and would dry. However, all they're doing is adding spray foam and causing major vapor or moisture problems rotting the structure out in years. You need to do a complete overhaul to add insulation like this and build it with it in mind. You cannot add it after the fact. (Another fun tip is old homes that are built out of boulders and cement you cannot insulate the walls with foam/rigid foam because it needs the heat from inside the house otherwise the cement will crack and begin to fail due to the extreme cold outside.)

[@stringlarson1247]

@Vultrux indeed. It's those pesky details that'll getcha. We don't have too many stone homes here in the upper Midwest, at least not compared to the UK/EU. We have a lot of brick in Chicago much of which is not meant to be painted. I've seen some real disasters due to the moisture you describe. Our temperature and humidity range is quite extreme, which can be hard on everything.

[@Brickcaster]

@@Vultrux Foam is a major water hazard. Any water gets on the wood and the foam keeps it from getting out, vastly accelerating rot and/or mildew growth. A minor pipe or roof leak turns into a huge liability.

[@Ojja78]

I still prefer wool insulation. It's easy to use, no mess, no fumes, no risk of a bad mixture ruining the job and easy to replace if something happens to it.

[@ericheft6184]

100% agree with getting good insulation done. We had water problems with our basement. Had a team come out and trench outside to catch the water coming off the concrete drive and inside to catch ground water. We waited a year with just bare concrete walls to verify the water proofing was working, then remodeled the basement similar to what is shown here and the difference is huge. My biggest regret was not getting enough isolation on the floor.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

for the floors it is as easy as a small thermal break. in most cases all you need is a DMX 1 step underlayment as long as the rim joist is airsealed. Cheers!

[@joesshop3622]

Reason you say that is the air at floor level is way colder. I use a fan to mix the air and get the heat off the ceiling to warm the floor. The concrete is always 65° and harbors a damn thermocline big time like our class A camper did. That was before I sucked the hot air off the ceiling and blew it across the floor. Works wonders.

[@cartier13]

@@joesshop3622 That's a great idea, thanks.

[@couchpotatoe3204]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Thanks for that.

[@IntuitiveOne76]

I renovated a basement a few years ago and decided to use the dmx sytem and it made a huge floor temp difference. That decision was based off an older video by​@HomeRenoVisionDIY

[@joesshop3622]

I live in SE Wisconsin and added 24" of blown cellulose on top of the pre-laid 6" of attic fiberglass batts...afterward we saved EXACTLY 1/3 on our Propane bill! Every 3rd 500 gallon tank is FREE!!! 110% serious!! Normally a fill was at 9 to 12%. Afterward the next fill the gage started at 47% when they came to fill! We were shocked at the savings! That was 20 years ago, major savings.

[@mikalpechota770]

I also did something similar. After getting rim joist spray foamed I also had 12” fiberglass blown in over the blown in cellulose from original construction.

[@jr0079]

Add another 30" in the attic and save another 35-40% more.

[@larrysowders7492]

The weight of cellulose at that depth is to muck for 1/2 inch drywall ! But if you have plaster should be fine

[@joesshop3622]

@@larrysowders7492 5/8 drywall has no issues after 20+ years @ 24"thk.

[@Ammoniummetavanadate]

R-80 blown insulation is the code where I live up in Canada and it is crazy how efficient you can be with R28 to 30 on the walls and 80 up top.

[@Randomdude21-e]

In Norway we buildt walls from 2x10 inch and roof is 2x12 inch. All insulated with rockwool. Windsealed everything from the outside

[@GDixon-ch3yl]

Snow.....

[@Randomdude21-e]

@ got snow a few months yes. Des-march. But most of Norway dont get alot of snow. In the north and inland its some but mostly in the montains.

[@meuchtie7662]

Leave some timber for the rest of us;)

[@Randomdude21-e]

@@meuchtie7662 😅 houses here in Norway are buildt to last 100 years. And soundproof really, and very energy efficient. I live in a house from 1950. Renovated in 2015 its now worth 500k.

[@AppendixVermiformis]

​@@Randomdude21-e Do you put vapor barrier in front of the rockwool? Like nylon or aluminium foil?

[@douggibson9084]

Three words for real estate, location, location, location. To reduce your monthly cost heating or cooling is insulate, insulate and insulate plus blower door pressure of less than .6. Spend now save for ever. Thanks excellent information.

[@VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM]

I built a new bedroom this summer. I used R23 rock wool, but I also use 1/4 inch cork under all of the sheetrock. Gives thermal break and sound reduction. And always use cork underlayment for floors. It's kind of a pain to put up under the sheetrock, but well worth it. Definitely always use cork underlayment for floors, it keep the floors so quiet and warm.

[@davemeiser521]

I don't know about CA diy 2 can spray foam but in the US they use isocyanate in the product. you really need a respirator when using this as like me one can become isocyanate sensitive, a few hours after using my chest was tight and it was painful to take a deep breath, had a mild fever, and horrible headache this lasted for about 2 days. I cant use the product now even with a full face respirator and "bunny suit" I still get the reaction

[@FrankHurt]

I thought they "required" users to watch training videos online too. And a respirator should be a must, given how this is literally toxic when inhaled.

[@MrAsphyxious]

was going to make this same comment.

[@tomsenft7434]

I am exposed to isocyanurate every few months, doing similar insulation work as shown here, and I haven't worn a respirator. I haven't had any symptoms. The last time I wore a respirator, I was cleaning raccoon shit out of an attic, and I hear there are dangerous pathogens that can be inhaled.😢

[@malachy1847]

Thinking the Jury is Out in relation to Spray Foam, Isocyanates can start ,''Off Gassing'' for a pastime, if applied too Liberally causing ,'' Sick Building syndrome'', and also Sick Homeowners and their families within the U.K. and Ireland, problems have arise with Underwriters of Home Insurance Cover for those New Buyers of already , Sprayfoamed properties, also when it comes to sell one's Home, the Vendors, get hit for those,''Specialist'' REMOVAL Costs, creating a New Industry i don't think it's really the Magic Bullet that Contractors claim it is...

[@FrankHurt]

@@tomsenft7434 you might have an exceptional immune system or naturally detox quickly. It's possible you're lucky, too! I (foolishly) allowed myself to get exposed to some incredibly nasty, airborne, fine particulate mouse-and-chicken feces dust when cleaning the coop this summer, stubbornly not wearing a mask. I felt it in my sinuses, bad headache, raw throat, inflamed lymph nodes, elevated body temperature. Probably some degree of Hanta virus exposure too, who knows. I dosed with liquid Ivermectin daily (4mL of 1% solution taken orally with water) and within a couple days snapped out of it. Maybe it was a coincidence, maybe I would have recovered that way without my home remedy intervention. But I also know of guys much younger than me who died of hanta virus cleaning out old houses and barns. So if anyone is reading this, it might be wise to keep some Ivermectin on hand in case you do foolish things like me!

[@Sparki883]

This is exactly the video I’ve been looking for! I have a 100 y/o house that has had extensive renovations over the years, including lifting the house and pouring a full height basement (1980-90s ish). While the basement has a drop ceiling, framed and insulated, but they skipped all 30 joist headers. My bedroom floor gets extremely cold in the frigid prairie winter. No insulation company wants to deal with this. Thank you for sharing all these methods!

[@Carl-i6c]

use petroleum jelly or vasaline inside of the nozzle in-between the outside head of the handle/nozzle at the metal nipples of the orfice and the disposable tip. The jelly protects the outside of the handle's head. The spray bottle is acetone. (I used to sell this stuff)

[@philiparmand3534]

In older homes, often, the sill-plate and rim joist is the coldest/wettest component in the framing. Wick breaks under the sill plate wasn't much of a thing, so moisture and temperature bridging from foundation is common. The rim and sill stay intact by drying to the outside or into the house. Spraying it or covering it with foam mostly stops inward drying and warming in cooler climates. A safer approach is to caulk air gaps using an elastomeric caulk (like Big Stretch or Extreme Stretch) then put a vapor open rigid insulation like Rockwool Comfortboard over the rim. Then spray over that. This allows vapor to migrate into neighboring components. On the exterior allow the rim to remain vapor open by using a vapor open WRB like Henry Bluskin VP 100 or Delta Vent SA. Trapping moistire into those components only works on modern framing.

[@garretts91]

So to be clear, you are saying to fill the cavity with rockwool, then spray foam over the rockwool? Could you use foamboard and expanding foam over the rockwool instead?

[@Tonisuperfly]

@@garretts91 Same question.

[@philiparmand3534]

​@@garretts91absolutely. I use the rigid Rockwool Comfortboard 80 directly against the rim. Then you could cut rigid EPS, XPS or ISO and foam any gaps with canned foam.

[@HarmonicResonator]

Does the Rockwool eliminate the need for a SMART Vapor Retarder? If I wasn't using Rockwool, wouldn't I want a SMART Vapor Retarder against the sill plate and rim joist?

[@philiparmand3534]

​​@@HarmonicResonator The Rockwool is very vapor open and allows moisture to migrate through into the neighboring framing members. If you apply spray foam or sheet foam on top of the Rockwool, then no vapor throttle needed as you are blocking vapor with the foam. The only thing the Rockwool primary layer does is allow the possibly wet or moist rim and sill to transfer the moisture more easily into the the subfloor and joists or any other connected framing. I wrote a bit about this in my "Deep Energy Retrofit" series on JLC online. If you choose to not foam over the Rockwool, then yes, a vapor throttle is needed. I like MemBrane by Certainteed. You can also use a Peel and Stick like Henry Blueskin VP100 or Delta Vent SA.

[@StereoMike06]

I did XPS and fiberglass. Basement is very comfortable with only 2 registers and 1 return. It stays about 2 degrees cooler than upstairs in the winter and almost 10 cooler in the summer. Dehumidifier has also worked about 75% less. Overall I am very happy.

[@kshahkshah]

the dehumidification benefits seem huge.. that's compelling to me.

[@StereoMike06]

@@kshahkshah I should mention I also added 2 coats of Drylock to the cinder blocks before doing any of the above for added moisture and water proofing. That along made a noticeable difference in how the basement felt and smelled from a damp perspective.

[@jkimo11]

You should get a HeatPump waterheater.... a by-product is dehumdification.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Love to hear that it's working for you!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

dehumidification is needed in some houses. best to have a floor drain you can connect a hose so you don't have to monitor the emptying of the bucket.

[@Rev22-21]

You can try either brake or carborator cleaner on those nozzles after they set up to dissolve and clean them. That works quite well especially on the disposable single use can foam dispensers. 👌

[@WezleyB]

Acetone is best...

[@williamwallace9620]

Oh cool I'll remember that

[@painterman3423]

Carburetor cleaner works better than the brake cleaner I've tried both.

[@Cotronixco]

Or Acetone, or better yet Lacquer thinner.

[@johnsog337]

Great video. The 2 part canister seems like a lot of money upfront but in the long run its better and easier. Do to a full basement and tight workspace, I did the Pink rigid foam board, spray foamed the gaps, and covered with rockwool. Helped a friend do the 2 part tank system, a clear working area allowed us to move quick and pre marking 1" and 2" on joists helped with foam depth.

[@thehammer9013]

I recently completed a full basement remodel with a concrete foundation. I wish I would've seen this video before I started the build. I didn't use any foam, but I did stuff two pieces of slightly oversized Kraft faced R13 into each chase against the rim joist. The building inspector seemed pleased, and I never noticed any air movement issues before it was sealed up with sheetrock.

[@jwhite4]

I read a number of comments. Opinions on both sides. I'm insulating my crawlspace. I went with option 2: foam board (2" R13.2), with perimeter foam sealing (at the rim joist), then (R-30) fiberglass batt insulation. Spray foam insulation looks nice. But there are concerns applying it (outgasing, etc). I've read that it can take some time to become proficient with it (end of wasting product). And a big concern that you can never really get easy access back to the original wood. It definitely takes more time, but cutting the foam board, and using a can of foam to seal around it, I think is the best compromise. No waste, no health issues, and definitely doable without a lot of practice. Plus, not difficult to remove if ever becomes an issue. I found this: You would need to use the Froth-Pak™ 210 or 650 Foam Insulation. It is Code Limited to a maximum of 2" thick, final cured foam thickness. At this thickness, it would have an R-value of 12.2. So for the bulk insulation of the rim joist, you shouldn't apply more than 2". The rigid foam board at 13.2 is higher. You loose a lot on the can foam (supposedly about R 3.3/inch). But if 1/4" around the perimeter, that's probably an acceptable tradeoff, all things considered.

[@alanpleiman3378]

agreed. xps foam is cheap and easily cut with a knife or saw. Setup a tablesaw and rip through a board quickly. once you're moving it really is pretty easy. invest in the pro gun, makes getting in those tight spaces way easier.

[@vladgulin9978]

I’ve done my whole house (DIY) with this spray foam, both walls and ceilings. Yes it’s costly but worth every penny! Just one thing to note in this video, please use a respirator, open up windows and run the fan. The fumes that get produced in the 15minutes of this chemical reaction are deadly and cancer causing!!! After 15-20mins it’s completely safe.

[@12thDecember]

I noticed the lack of a respirator, too. I wonder if it's in the caution section of the instructions.

[@David-p3y5o]

also protect lungs from glass fibers...SMH

[@dadutts]

@@12thDecemberit certainly is

[@dadutts]

This spray foam is also highly flammable. Definitely recommended to use some fireproofing materials on top of it once it’s cured, whether that’s a spray on fire retardant, batting with rockwool, or enclosing with drywall

[@snowhite38]

So, would you recommend not using the spray foam in a basement without windows? I have a stone house, built in 1872, and the basement has no windows. Well that not quite true, it has a tiny little unopenable window. I have used the small cans to fill in a few holes but thought this product might be idea as the basement has no insulation at all, it is completely made of 1.5 foot deep stones so I can’t easily put insulation onto the walls as there is no wood. One bonus is that the house will never burn down 😊

[@jr0079]

I live in 2K sq ft home in N. Calif I seal every gap I could find, blow 50" insulation in the attic, paint the outside with ceramic, energy efficient appliance and trade secret to make refrigerator, water heater and HVAC over 30% more efficient and reduce energy cost by 90% without solar panels.

[@VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM]

Nice 👍

[@philhensley5986]

In extreme climates, a thin layer of foam does air seal, but it doesn't insulate well enough to stop the substrate from frosting and condensing. I have seen fiberglass get wet when it is used like a flash and bat method.

[@adventureisoutthere8064]

My man, you’re the reason I’ve gotten better at telling my sub contractors what they need to do, before they put up drywall. So many short cuts that sub contractors do that cost me money in the long run, and i pay the same for amount for construction.

[@woodrmp1]

I had my whole basement sprayed floor to ceiling including rim joists for $7k. Closed cell 3M 3” minimum. This was 3 or 4 years ago. 1600 sq ft basement 9’ ceilings. Worth every penny it doesn’t feel or smell like a basement at all.

[@Lolatyou332]

I have about a 1000sqft basement that I cleared out before hand, think it was only about 3,000$ for 3 inches, and that was with doing two crawl spaces with 10mill plastic sheets for the ground.

[@joevicious11]

Is there a reason why you went with closed cell? I’m also finishing my 1,700 sq ft basement and they only did closed cell spray on the concrete walls and ceiling of the 200 sq ft office space. I have heard that if there’s a leak, because closed cell foam is air tight, it’s tough to figure out the leak and it causes mold over time. Is it accurate?

[@lucash1980]

Paragraph guy: Vacuum out your rim joists first. Wipe down the sill. Two inch xps foam board cut to size (half inch less all around) with an Olfa knife- score, slice snap. Cut all your boards first and put them in position ( older homes mean measuring different widths, but the joist height (e.g. 8 inches) can be measured and pre-cut in long lengths. Use a foam gun with a can of window door foam. Push the cut foam rectangle up to the top of the rim joist and put a generous bead of spray foam along the sill on the bottom. Drop the foam board down into the bed of foam, hold the foam board firm against the rim joist and spray up the sides and then across the top. If you are doing two layers for R20, get your second board in there. Keep the pressure on to keep the sprayfoam from getting behind the foam board and pushing it out as it expands. Cover with mineral wool insulation 3" batt or 1.5" board cut to size. The mineral wool board cut for a tight fit will hold everything together as the foam cures. This will keep any fire off the foam and give you more time to escape before the fumes get you. It also would slow fire from moving between levels of the home. The foam board and can of spray foam is the BEST in my opinion. The foam board is perfectly cured at the factory to prevent off-gassing in the house. The can of spray foam still gets the cracks sealed, but limits the amount of foam curing in the house. Infinitely LESS MESSY-especially if you are cutting and snapping with a razor knife-- DONT use your damn circular saw or jigsaw! Joists should be fairly protected from rot, especially if you get the spray foam into the cracks aro😮und them. Any water coming down inside the wall cavity above is going to hit that foam and spread out along the floor above and be noticed. Older homes have plank sub floor, usually laid diagonally, and you can usually get a little spray foam up there where the floor meets the wall, especially if you have a longer bendy straw or a flexible plastic tip/ tube for the metal spray guns. Good luck.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

the sell new spray foam cans that shoot a 6" wide spray now. always better to spray and flash vs rigid and traditional sprayfoam.

[@Paladin7845]

If you're using the correct spray foam it's FIRE RETARDANT all ready! Makes your entire method redundant and extremely labor intensive = more expensive.

[@Ojja78]

Yes, gotta do a proper rim job.

[@lucash1980]

​@Paladin7845 you don't understand the difference between fire retardant and fire proof. Yes there are many foams that will self-extinguish when temporarily exposed to flame (look up burn tests online), but by the time a fire gets to your foam, burning through the wall or joist bay, you get a constant flame that will continue to burn the foam. We know it is not the fires that kill people, it is the toxic smoke that overwhelms people. The purpose of the mineral wool is to keep that fire from burning that foam just a little longer, because seconds matter. Like wood fire blocking, it is useful in containing fires travelling through an open joist bay and slowing its movement between floors/rooms. Your comment "Extremely labour intensive" is just your excuse for " I don't know how." Like anything it is simple/easy when you know how--such as to score and snap xps board and safe and sound /comfort board cuts just as easy with a bread knife. It is so quick once you get going, and you can do a little at a time and stop at a moment's notice (which is a must for some DIY couples and parents). I'm not a Rockwool rep, but I think the material is good. Company quality control is crap. Actually found the front of an Alexisonfire band t-shirt INSIDE a batt of Safe and Sound 4 years ago. Ironic, but still pissed off about that. Who knows what other garbage they throw into those batts? Those DIY spray kits are for specific applications--unfinished spaces, spray all day once and done, empty house renovation. For example, if you were lowering tiles off a drop ceiling in a "finished-ish" basement to seal the rim joists, nothing is cleaner and more precise than foam board and canned foam with a long barrel gun. I've seen guys "butter" the foam board with spray foam for rim joists with uneven masonry, but I don't know how well it cures under the foam board. I know it certainly won't stick to masonry covered in 40-90 years of dust. First gotta get the shop vac in there with the brush attachment and HEPA filter. Again, for some people, the use of foam boards is about limiting the chance for overspray, dripping, and limiting the amount and thickness of foam that needs to cure inside their home.

[@lucash1980]

​@HomeRenoVisionDIY love the DIY option for a 6" "fan" spray to cover large areas. Sika Boom 121 is a can option in Ontario that works like the froth packs for really small jobs and awkward spaces with its fancy straw applicator. I think it might be open cell foam, so that's something to consider depending on your application. Thanks Jeff! Cheers!

[@danielwarzecha2007]

In the states our stuff lists off that you need basically a gas mask on to protect yourself from the off gasses

[@Hagop64]

I'm a little leery of massive use of spray foam insulation. The off gassing can be really bad if the mixture isn't correct and I worry we'll find out in 10-20 years "oh btw that stuff we used to use is incredibly bad for you" like so many things in that past.

[@MassiveGarbage]

​@@Hagop64 I'm hearing that banks are starting to not give mortgages for spray foam insulated houses now.

[@digibluh]

oh it does here too, this guy is just incompetent.

[@painterman3423]

Cartridge type full face outside. air supplied full face inside. Also workers are not to occupy the space before 12 hours home owner or tenants are 24 hours because of the gases

[@epiklyfail6601]

@@Hagop64 Exactly my thought as well. Better to be safe than sorry... open a window if you can, wear a good mask. Those warnings usually only go on products AFTER we find out about it's side effects, and this stuff ain't natural. Still a great and educational video though.

[@Jakereviewsall]

Good info, im only insulating a trailer conversion for the most part but I have been going and insulating parts of the home I am renting. They added no insulation it seems, air blowing out from every door jam, every outlet etc.

[@SamuelSchowalter]

I work in commercial roofing and we use a 2 part foam adhesive for a lot of freezer detail so no air can get into that freezer and start to condensate and freeze inside. We also use it sparingly on large projects where it is more of a low rise adhesive that you spray onto 4x8 boards to adhere the iso together and then your coverboard. 2 part adhesive is definitely an extremely effective solution bit a lot of them are oil based, and terrible for your skin and the environment.

[@benoithudson7235]

I love the fiberglass batts with sunlight showing through a crack right next to it. It’s a great technology for when you’re worried that it’s cold outside and you really want to fix the outside temperature.

[@ryanf.7933]

I've insulated my rim joist here in the southeast with R30 pink insulation. Easy to remove for termite inspection and won't mold behind from humidity because it can breathe.

[@raybrensike42]

Back in '74 in the Fargo area, it was always a discussion whether to insulate the perimeter of the floor framing with fiberglass batt insulation or not, because if you did, in the cold of winter, you could pull out the batt and see all the frost. If you did not insulate that area, it would be dry.

[@kerrryschultz2904]

Only reason under those conditions that you are see frost is the insulation now lowered the temperature at the perimeter and without a vapor barrier moisture would now condense and form frost. Install a vapour barrier on the warm side and there won't be moisture movement thru the insulation to condense on the perimeter.

[@MrErViLi]

I've used that spray foam before. Love it. To get up in that cavity better, you can take a heat gun and heat up the yellow tip and give it a bend. Then you can angle the tip down and get into those tighter areas. Done it many times.

[@tonyhurlbut7754]

Thanks!

[@reallunacy]

In the southeast it isnt generally recommended to use spray foam along the rim joist as you can't pull it out for termite inspection. Additionally, vapor barriers should be towards where it is hottest so in southern states you want the vapor barrier on the outside of the home under the siding, whereas colder climates like Canada you want it inside just under the drywall. Unfortunately climate really affects the best practices with building science.

[@veritasaequitas9838]

Indeed, if the inspector cannot pull the insulation the property will not pass inspection and becomes unsellable as it sits.

[@JohnSmith-ti2kp]

@@veritasaequitas9838 So, in a finished basement, some inspector is going to remove the ceiling and part of the wall to look for termites or something? What kind of inspector are you talking about?

[@user-lt1co9co1l]

I just heard someone talk about this. I have to do some research​@@veritasaequitas9838

[@MauriceDeClerk]

The dude is in canada.....

[@artseidner2427]

@@JohnSmith-ti2kpcounty state international ordinance and compliance code Enforcement give permits and then inspections and then approval or denial or suggested fix it suggestions everything must be done the same spesification

[@CARDSSerus]

I literally just started working on this at my house, so this is perfect timing

[@asawoszc]

Same here. My biggest frustration is the conflicting info around whether some of these foam board products act as a vapour barrier and therefore you don't need an additional one on the warm side of the wall.

[@rumblebeast08]

Same here!

[@bigtime4794]

I never realized how common this is. Exactly what I need

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

rigid foam is not a vapor barrier. it is somewhere in the high side of the permeable scale but not considered a true vapor barrier as closed cell foam is. Cheers!

[@jgalmodovar]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Wow, I did not know this. This is a super important piece of information when deciding to insulate/save money and have a true vapor barrier....specifically crawl spaces and rim joists. Thanks again for sharing this knowledge.

[@maxscriptguru]

Excellent presentation, your speed of delivery is excellent too. Not taking too much time. You are a good teacher.

[@larrydickman6016]

Not taking too much time? I read your comment just at the point where the two of them have question marks over their heads trying to figure out how to use the machine as they read the manual as they go along, instead of doing what manuals usually say, which is, "Read this manual before using the product".

[@illes_invest]

Another nice benefit to spray foaming is insect barrier. It's very common for insects to come in at the rim joist, right where the 2x6 top plate meets the concrete. This is especially true if you have something like vinyl siding coming right down to the foundation as opposed to masonry. When you spray foam the rim joist, it seals it to the point where insects cannot get in. If only using batts, it doesn't stop insects at all.

[@the_stixXx]

I sealed my exterior walls with a kit that had two bottles like the one in this video. The two bottles produced 400 board feet. Since the foam works better in warmer temperatures what I did was, put the two bottles on a rolling cart and surrounded them with insulation and then took a small space heater and put it on the cart to keep the bottles as warm as possible. The two bottles were probably around 90°. I sprayed my walls and I was able to get around the 400 board feet the product claimed to produce.

[@johnhughes6847]

Hey Jeff, I used to be a flash and bat guy until I saw a great video by Mike on his Spray Jones KZbin channel. He's also another smart Canadian up in Regina. He uses a lot of real research papers, government reports and one of the biggest eye openers is how many holes he shoots in the 'R-value' of fiberglass...the circumstance around FG R-rating is unrealistic and he covers that also. Spray foam is the most expensive but is the only insulation that serves as insulation, air barrier, vapor barrier, sound deadener and also adds structural strength...no other form of insulation can make all those claims. Given cost, my personal favorite is 2-3 inches of polyiso rigid insulation (RMAX foil-faced on both sides, 2-3 inches) with the gap around the panel for foam insulation sealing for air/vapor.

[@johnhogan3810]

We call that poor man's spray foam. Most of the advantages of spray foam at 40% of the price and no chance of a misapplication of the foam causing you horrible problems down the line.

[@explaincauseidontgetit3294]

We had our short basement encapsulated with closed cell foam and vapor barrier. It’s so cozy, makes you want to hang out down there.

[@skimanfree1073]

Is a short basement another name for a crawl space?

[@explaincauseidontgetit3294]

Ski man, we have two parts connected, one side is a true crawl space, on your belly to get around. The other side is about 5 feet from floor to joist. Not tall enough to move around comfortably but enough to move around and use it as storage and that kind of thing.

[@troys6965]

We recently had open cell foam sprayed in exterior walls of kitchen renovation. Of two cost estimates, one was three times higher than the other!

[@cidpusa700]

In England Homes are not selling due to foam insulations. There are also fumes that cause a daily problem.

[@smopoo]

Yes, mortgage lenders will not approve homes with spray insulation because of future ventilation and moisture issues. Also where is this guys mask...

[@keonacreek]

​@@smopoo :o

[@larrysanderson8362]

I read an article about this a few months back, the issue was as I recall that unscrupulous installers were spraying in exterior walls that had voids in the walls with a ton of debris and the foam left voids/airpockets which created the mold issues. Back in the late 80’s in Canada houses had to disclose when selling if they had the urea formaldehyde spray foam as when not mixed properly it caused off gassing issues.

[@robertcote2406]

I did this a few years ago and replaced the fiberglass insulation that was molding above the foundation. It was well worth it! As it was already a finished basement, I also used the spray foam to insulate behind the drywall. I did 3 holes per cavity and filled it slowly using a plastic hose on the end of the nozzle. It expands slowly enough to work fine and didn't bust open the drywall. I know it's not recommended to do so, but there was no insulation at all behind the drywall and was really cold behind the wall. Another side note, it also stopped the ingress of mice.

[@dbss6099]

As an electrician I’ve seen way too many sill plates and rim boards rotten after only a few years of being spray foamed.

[@ryanpalmer6816]

Were they insulated on the exterior as well? AFAIK it is most problematic when there is no capability to dry in either direction, so as long as the exterior is not covered in rigid foam insulation as well, things should not rot.

[@billymacktexasdetective5827]

The next time you tell a story, at least make it believable...

[@dougspry3101]

Spray foam will be banned in a couple years here in the us. The stuff is junk. Absolutely awful

[@JdsjsKdmem]

25 years on site here, its no lie son. 25 years in roofing pal I know moisture, there's a reason walls and windows have breathers, put a pice of 2x4 3 inch long and put it in plastic rap, come back a few years later and tell me what shade of white it is then because between the moisture in the wood, the bacteria trapped in the pac, and the wood being a natural food sorce you gonna have a wet mess. That back side of the iso bord will be black and slime in 5 tops ​@billymacktexasdetective5827

[@JdsjsKdmem]

​@@billymacktexasdetective5827 what case are you working on detective? The case of the missing experience? 😮 White Christians invented the world we all wish to have

[@PlymouthVT]

Its all about insulation. After years living in my 1955 house with essentially no insulation for years I hired a blow in company good rep did some neighbor homes. Before they started I asked the guy how do you get to the far side of the house does your hose reach that far and he said no i climb in there. I said holy shit that's crazy and gave him a $50 tip before he even started. I paid for R19 which would be a little over the 2x4 ceiling rafters. After I tipped that guy his attitude completely changed he went up there and he blew 2 feet high of insulation in my entire ceiling lol. My attic looks like a huge snow drift. It cut my electric bill in half and in the Florida winter I can almost heat my entire 900 foot house with one floor heater. And its much quieter now. Duking workers really really helps. Everything changes after that they know your a good guy and not a dick. Best $50 I ever spent.

[@generalschoice]

I think spray foam is more efficient but my BIG concern/question is, for example in England, many folks can't sell their homes (banks won't issue a mortgage) after they insulated with spray foam, especially in the attic because it seals so well the wood rots and can't be seen. So if those folks want to sell they have to remove the spray foam so the trusses can be inspected for rot. So we spray seal our homes, lower our electric bills etc, fast forward 10-20 years, go to sell the house but find out the studs are all molded because they can't breathe or worse yet all rotten. Then what? We saved money only to find out we destroyed the house? A friend sprayed his metal shed walls here in Florida. Super insulated, and super smelly because it holds in the humidity and unless he runs AC 24/7 to keep humidity down that's what you get. Will the metal walls and studs rust over time from the trapped moisture? My personal opinion is the jury is still out on long term effects on spray insulation. I think it's great but I'm not yet convinced it won't harm homes after 20/30/50 years, only due to moisture issues caused by the wood not being able to breathe a little. Is spray insulation great for dry desert areas but a horrible idea in humid ones?

[@nathanmielke1977]

Exactly. Sick-Building-Syndrome is a real problem. Houses need to breathe and sealing everything up airtight is often pennywise pound foolish.

[@ScottGr2]

Spray does work better in dry areas indeed

[@MC-cd8ni]

Spray foam acts as vapor barrier. You need proper ventilation in you attic. Why is there so much humidity in your attic if it does not come from the house anymore.. Keep vapor barrier on the Warm side. Use house wrap that 'breathes' cold side

[@maxanator6]

Sounds like improperly sprayed attic. There should be egg cartons as we call it here but basically a ventilation that is nailed between trussed and goes up about 3 ft from the soffit. Soffit and ridge must be vented and there should be an open path along the roof deck for air to travel from the soffit to the ridge

[@maxanator6]

Its not wrong only different. But youre right you have to be careful upfitting an old home thats built to breathe with airsealing now new homes built to be completely sealed use completely different principles and the tech is designed that way think zip system​@@nathanmielke1977

[@shensley011]

Going in my crawlspace this weekend to prep for the spray foam company to come out and do my rim joists next week! My power company would only give me a rebate if I did BETWEEN my floor joists. Which I thought was super dumb. . .I'm encapsulating my crawl, so creating an air barrier and going with 4" closed cell spray foam in my rim joists all the way down my stemwall until the top of my taped vapor barrier. Closing off all vents except for one where I will put a correctly sized CF vent fan. Monitor humidity levels and I'll put a dehumidifier if I need to. Though I'm not anticipating I'll need one in my PNW climate. . .

[@Damien-kx4hc]

I have been wrestling with Great Stuff and foam board for about a week. When I cut the sheet rock from the ceiling I found rocks, moldy batt and even carpet in the cavity. I had no idea how I was going to slide foam board in that tight area and seal with Great Stuff. You're always right. Pay now or suffer. You are always on time.

[@Madmoody21]

I have seen allot of things wood wise. I know for a fact if you suppress air movement on all sides of lumber with above 10 percent moisture it will mold. Plastic is non permeable can be used on a rain wall on ONE side the other side must be open to air. Then the Semi permeable envelope and leave the inside of that wall insulation system breathable. Cost is high yes, but wet insulation does not insulate it molds, and spray foam is secondary non permeable on the inside so you must have outside open to air. Boats use spray foam proper wooden boats do not! there are reasons.

[@moi01887]

Just a note... using cans of Great Stuff may not be as versatile as the 2-part stuff with the different nozzles and so on, but it's a lot cheaper! Looking on the website of my friendly local orange box store just now, a 12-oz. can of Great Stuff is $4.38, or $0.37/oz. A Froth-Pak 200 kit is $383.97 for 656 ounces, or about $0.58/oz... nearly double the cost per ounce! And would cost even more if you end up buying material you don't use (like if the kit is enough to do 2 houses but you only have 1 house).

[@alexandrepiche5609]

Maybe but the ease of use is worth the price in my opinion

[@als7594]

If you decide to use foam board and insulation, get a Pro Gun around $65-$70. The cans of spray foam for it, are around $15. They go a long way compared to the once and done $5 cans. You'll spend 3X-4X in the small cans verses one Pro Can on the gun. If you don't use up all of the foam you can set it aside for up to 30 days before removing it from the gun and disposing. You can also remove the can, clean the gun and save the unused portion of the spray foam in the can for later use. The other benefit of the Pro-Guns is you can adjust the width of the bead of the foam. FYI those pro cans have a shelf life around one year whether you use them or not. You can probably do your rim joists for around $200 using a pro-gun, insulation and foam board. I will tell you the Froth-Pak is the easiest and quickest way to go if you have money to burn and little spare time for this type of project. Plus if you decide to air seal your attic in the future, that Pro-Gun is going to come in very handy doing the top plates.

[@yayinternets]

Make sure you are comparing foam types and weights as well. You should be using 2 lb closed cell foam. But yeah, those froth paks are over priced. At that point you are probably better off having a pro do it. Especially if you don’t want to research all of the gotchas, techniques, etc.

[@j.vonhogen9650]

​@@als7594- I don't see why you would want to remove a pro gun from a can containing unused foam if you are going to use the remaining foam later anyway. If you leave it on, you'd only need to clean the tip of the gun next time. If you remove the gun you would have to clean the whole gun before you store it, right? Sounds to me like an unnecessary step.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Another option is to buy the new foam cans that spray at 6" wide . that can be used to flash and then add batt. Cheers!

[@the_stixXx]

I just did two inch home board with spray insulation filling in the gaps around it with canned spray foam. One thing I found that was helpful was to get a hose, about 16-20 in Long that has the same inside diameter as the tube that attaches to the spray foam can put that hose on the spray foam can tip and electrical tape it as well as the screw on trigger part of the can. Once you do that you can keep the can upside down outside of the cavity then use the hose to easily put the spray foam around the gaps of the foam board. An added benefit of this method is that the foam doesn't spray out super fast which actually makes it easier to apply. When you finish the phone just turn the can right side up and spray the air through the hose and you can reuse the hose. Very little mess with that method, and one can of spray foam will go a long way. Hopefully that tip help somebody.

[@zachfisher93]

Wood doesn’t just mold and rot, unless there is a moisture problem, hence a leak. So if you use open cell. It will eventually show/leak through…. And then you can find the spot, fix the leak and re spray in that spot. Closed cell will not show a leak, so it can hold water and Rot.

[@Deram1Axres]

Still not a fan of spray foam, but I work in the post-frame industry and we have issues with people spraying directly to the steel siding. Rare but it can damage, warp, or discolor the steel when its applied given the heat it puts out (also if it is applied wrong it can get between the girts and steel and pop it out a little given the way post-frames are built, more of an issue for DIY than a professional). But the main issue is when we go to do a repair (especially hail damage) and now we have to either rip out all the insulation when we pull off the steel and then the customer has to re-spray the new steel or we come up with a less than ideal work around of laying down boards and making a new roof inches above the original with added ventilation (we won't just lay new steel on top of the old because of sealing issues). Either way it is a pain and costs the home owner additional money. We won't subcontract the spray foam ourselves unless we put house wrap on the sides before applying the steel and plywood under the roof steel. Might be useful knowledge if anyone is looking to insulate their post-frame building.

[@fivestar2227]

Why not use rockwool there? Cleaner and faster to install, cheaper, seals air gaps, can prevent or slow fires, very dense so it blocks sound and most importantly lenders arent afraid of it.

[@VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM]

Seriously rockwool is the best. I installed it for the first time in my new bedroom I built. Love this stuff, I'm going to use it for everything now 👍 He did have some rockwool in other areas, I don't know why he didn't use it in the demo part though.

[@seanmcne]

Rockwool does not seal air gaps - it’s not entirely air tight. Good product but it doesn’t do that.

[@fivestar2227]

@@seanmcne I remember doing this one 1960s house with an old dried up sill seal. I could see daylight and feel a cold breeze and hear outdoor sounds through the gap and simply stuffing a square of good ol rockwool oversized by 1" in there completely blocked the breeze, sound and light so yes it does. Sealing the gap with foam or silicone before placing the rockwool would have offered 0 benefit.

[@diamondbracelette]

@@fivestar2227 Just like any substrate it'll indeed restrict airflow, but it's not a proper air seal that prevents air leaks. i.e. it wouldn't make that part of the assembly "air tight"

[@fivestar2227]

@@diamondbracelette With an air flow resistance greater than 30 kPa.s/m2 plain rockwool is more than enough to prevent air leaks and vapor barrier variants are available. When weighing the pros and cons of rockwool vs foam, foam just seems like a bad idea.

[@Andrico77]

Had my entire basement from rim joist to floor sprayed to 3” by a company for $4400 cad in Toronto all in. It’s now warmer and more comfortable than main level. House was built in 1955.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

truth is once you do the rim joist the rest is not as necessary. regular rigid and batt for the walls is plenty for the same result. mush mire affordable

[@user-nh3gu1ge3d]

$1200 for that spray foam system is crazy. Pretty sure that identical kit is $377.33 at home depot in the states. Unless that one is special for some reason: DAP TNFP System 200 Kit Low GWP Spray Foam Sealant Insulation $377.33. It looks exactly identical.

[@larrysanderson8362]

The $1200 kit is 3x the product I think 600 board ft vs the 200 board ft the kit you mentioned is rated for. Rim joists calculate linear ft of rim joists multiply by 2 ( so you get 2” of foam) if that’s 200 ft the smaller kit will work

[@swit2732]

Yep it's a superior insulation but introduces a lot of potential health risks both during install, curing and post curing stages. It's also a nightmare removing if something goes wrong during the curing or you need to remodel later. It's a also fire hazard (but so if the polyfoam). I prefer a combination of method #2 and rockwool.

[@danielsimonson3484]

I used this system on my shipping container. I framed the exterior for T-111, and sprayfoamed the exterior with 3 of these systems and built a small sloped roof on top. It works very well and i didn't lose interior demensions. 40ft high cube for $2500. about $5k in lumber/roofing/ Doors and windows, and 3 of these systems for about $2k at the time. $3k to run power to it. All in about $25/sqft.

[@blueplague5911]

I don't personally need this information but I'm the type that thinks knowing a bit about everything is useful. Sir, you are gifted when it comes to packaging information/knowledge in an accessible way for people. It's very impressive.

[@wreadd]

If you do rigid board direct to concrete wall and tape all the seams, wouldn’t code allow that to be a vapor barrier? I didn’t think I’d need plastic over my framing and insulations in between studs if the rigid board acted as the vapor barrier.

[@asawoszc]

This is my question also. Too much conflicting info out there.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

i just passed my inspection. rigid foam 2x4 walls R 14 batt. super 6 plastic no acoustic seal. always consult local codes. Cheers!

[@jdboy9]

Yeah kind of interesting. I was always under the assumption that you don't want two vapor barriers separated by an air gap (fiberglass insulation in this situation)

[@macoeur1122]

Those metal spray foam guns that attach to foam cans are a "MUST have" for small gaps...The ability to control your spray is a million times better than the spray cans..You can stop and start over and over again as long as you keep your tip clean. You can even stop for days...without removing the can from the spray gun as long as your tip is screwed all the way in the closed position. AND.... If you do want to use a 1/2 can remainder of foam after more than a few days, all you have to do is remove and clean the gun...and clean the top of the can where the gun attaches to it.. As long as you shake it well every month or so, it'll stay viable for a long time. I know all of this from personal experience. Would never do air sealing without one. And an added bonus: It's unbelievable how far one can of foam goes when you can control the spray so well.

[@mr.wizeguy8995]

I have kept that can on foam gun sometimes several month and it still works actually i have never cleaned that foam gun. If can goes empty i still leave it on until i need that foam gun again then i replace new can.

[@macoeur1122]

@@mr.wizeguy8995 Doesn't surprise me much..I've never been quite that brave, fearing that I'd ruin the gun if I pushed it.

[@joelboutier1736]

I love foam insulation. Very efficient. I’d put it in my forever home. But there are times as an electrician where I despise it. If I encounter a situation where I need to fish wire or coax through a wall that has foam in it for a tv mount or something, it makes it impossible.

[@OhsoScary]

I’m building a cabin now and insulating with EPS. I get them free from a company that is a dealer of trailers. The trailers come in stacks. The blocking for the trailers are 18x12x12” Expanded Polystyrene. I use hot wire cutting tools to resize and shape it. It’s R value is around 3.5-4/in walls are reclaimed 2x6’s. Added benefit is super rigid walls which means no Sheetrock damage and high sound deadening.

[@msomething3579]

Love those safety contact lenses for using that spray foam,...

[@agenericyoutubehandle]

Question though: if you live in a cold and humid place, how do you mitigate the wood rotting from being sealed up?

[@LordofTheFallen]

It shouldn't be sealed. House wrap is permeable to allow for exterior drying, so this is functionally no different from batt insulation with a plastic paper barrier. Spray foam on the underside of a roof would be bad though, because then the roof can't vent from either side and if a leak happens it will rot.

[@Billy_bSLAYER]

@@LordofTheFallen Just had to talk my brother out of spray foaming his underside of his roof.

[@yayinternets]

It’s the job of your external vapor barrier. That’s why I personally am weary of retrofitting a full spray foam insulation on an older home as I’m not that confident about how well the vapor barrier is working unless I end up redoing all of the siding and vapor barrier myself.

[@steele403b]

There is a big problem doing a vapor barrier sandwich with closed cell foam and then 'something' like fiberglass, framing, etc and then another vapor barrier (12:27 in the video). Any moisture in between the vapor barriers has no place to go which is very bad. Before you insulate know if is dry to the inside or dry to the outside in your geographic area and plan appropriately

[@joshlikessurfing]

Yes, in Texas this could be worse with inside VB in some construction spaces. Most of vapor comes from outside in hot and humid south and cools when hitting cool inside surfaces. Look into methods for your area is very important. A bit tricky when you first start diy. Make sure to know it works on your house type AND your weather region.

[@retakenroots]

Never ever use spray foam but use products like Rockwool. Great insulation and soundproofing albeit a little more work.

[@sween187]

Double check with your insurance as they are now not covering alot of housed that used soray foam as there no air gap between it and the outer surface which can allow water to build up and not drain away.

[@WilliamFiler]

Insuranc companies is the UK are cancelling spray foam insulation homes due to rot. Mostly this seems to be in ceilings where roof sheeting isn't drying out.

[@vrjersey]

FYI I’ve used the 2 part spray foam and I used a heating blanket to keep the temperature up which gave me the best performance. It expanded much more than not heating the containers. Also shake them every 20 mins or so.

[@SylwerDragon]

also my suggestion would be to put those two bottles with Chemical A and B into hot water to make these chemicals warmer and also in that room you should put hot air

[@ronman716]

Hey guys, good video, however I spray foam professionally, some things are worth having the pros do. This is one of them. These are serious chemicals. The overspray can get on anything you don’t have covered, including windows and your floor. It’s not meant to come off. It is a fantastic product when applied correctly. If you do choose to go get one of the spray kits you can get at Lowe’s or Home depot, make sure you warm the material by keeping it in a warm area at 70 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 24 hours before you plan to use it. This is closed cell foam. You’ll need to pick up a respirator that has replaceable cartridges. It’s not good to breathe the curing foam. Also, you may want to grab a tyvek suit some safety glasses and a few pairs of gloves.

[@joefin5900]

Having spent a career inspecting and building cladding systems, and working with leading architectural firms (Adamson Associates of Toronto among them), the proper order of materials from the exterior in is: Rainscreen(masonry, siding), Air Cavity (rarely mentioned in most of these videos), Vapor Barrier, continuous, and Structure (wood, metal, masonry).

[@K.Peterson]

I'm buying a 1957 house at the end of the month. Your videos inspire me to be able to paint and repair my new house.

[@cyrushirvi7117]

Good luck bud! Got a '50s house last year as well. Check your sill plate carefully - I had to replace it partially all around as it was rotten through. Luckily rim joist was fine.

[@Larsbor]

10:45 How does that foamspray behave in your lungs?

[@EP2JS]

It’s criminal how expensive the 2 part foam kits cost.

[@9avedon]

Petroleum based product that is now unaffordable to Canadians, thanks to radical government.

[@AmplifyAmbition]

I'd look into getting local estimates for a company to come out and do it, I just got several estimates that were only a few hundred dollars more than diying. Needless to say, I'll be going with the licensed, warrantied work.

[@9385dee7]

I Had my 650ft basement done, they sprayed the entire depth of my rim joist (yes, the entire ~ 2 feet deep cavity) for $1700. Thats less than the cost of 2 of these kits at my hardware store (that say they are only rated for 500 square feet at 1 inch thickness). The local guys were in and out in a day, cleaned up amazingly and I didn't lift a finger. Totally recommend trying local.

[@andrewlupton2120]

@@AmplifyAmbition That's what I'm considering doing. Dealing with this 2 canister system just looks like a headache to me (though I'm glad Jeff walked through how it's done and the cost).

[@lionintu]

Can anyone show me the link to the product

[@dclipper8052]

Thorough caulking of all gaps followed by well fitted mineral wool batts is a good alternative that doesn't have any offgassing issues associated with it and doesn't burn like toxic hellfire when little Johnny gets carried away during his pyromania phase and lights the basement on fire.

[@Pennconst101]

Hello in the south, we do not spray foam the seal plate because we need to be able to inspect for termites. I’m pretty sure that’s across the board across the United States.

[@RadamFG]

Correction and Warning - Flash and Batt - Friendly FYI what Jeff described as "Flash and Batt" is not correct and what he showed is a recipe for water damage. Flash and Batt is at least 2 inches of closed foam, followed by batt insulation (fiberglass, rockwoll, etc) and NO vapour barrier. The 2 inches of foam IS the vapour barrier. Any moisture that does get into the cavity can wick out through the drywall into the home. What Jeff showed (a thin layer of foam, batt, vapour barrier) is liable to (in my opinion) allow moisture in (because the foam is too thin to be a proper vapour barrier), soak the insulation, and not allow it out fast enough because it is trapped between a plastic sheet and foam that is air tight. Sorry Jeff, I generally like your stuff but this one's seems to be a potential problem for people who go that route.

[@kshahkshah]

That last system you're referencing is not the one he's advocating for however.

[@RadamFG]

@@kshahkshah He's actually advocating ALL 3 METHODS.... though he indicates which one he prefers.

[@farmeunit]

@@RadamFGHe was showing what’s been done…

[@surfingcuriositywaves4046]

If the foam is closed cell, even a thin continuous layer will be a vapor barrier. Open cell foam is only a vapor retarder, and has been shown to be a problem where it was widely applied in the UK.

[@RadamFG]

@@farmeunit .... and got one of them wrong (flash and batt)... he indicated that "poor man's", DIY and INCORRECT "flash and batt" spray foam are all acceptable... in fact he said starting at 12:26 that INCORRECT flash and batt "works great".

[@jackspencer8290]

That big spray foam product is closed cell spray foam, which off gasses VOCs. Closed cell does have the highest R-value. But it's a nasty product that you better know what you're doing when you use it. (Side note: Why do you need to use Great Stuff *Windows and Doors* in this example, rather than the regular stuff?) XPS foam also off gasses, although not nearly as much as spray foam. For me, there are better ways for the DIYer, namely, EPS foam board and Great Stuff. EPS foam does not, generally, have an off gassing issue, is readily available for free - yes, for free. This is the same stuff that comes in packaging (the white foam board). You can get plenty of it by going to your local stores and simply asking them if they'll let you take waste EPS off their hands. Great Stuff is closed cell, so it does off gas just like the big spray setup shown here. But the difference is that you're using a lot LESS of it when using EPS board and Great Stuff to air seal. Remember - this your air conditioned space we're talking about. As far as insulating all the way over the poured concrete, yes, this should be done. But you can get creative and do it with cut EPS and Great Stuff. The only negative about EPS is that it crumbles when you're cutting it, so it's more difficult to work with than XPS. But so what? That's what vacuums are for.

[@Mrcaffinebean]

What stores did you find the EPS from? I have concerns also with the off gassing and the general cost of this system.

[@scooterp7009]

Expanded polystyrene is not closed cell and will not block moisture. Extruded polystyrene is closed cell.

[@jackspencer8290]

@@scooterp7009 irrelevant, if you want to block moisture, adhere plastic to it. But what is the point of? It’s about air sealing and thermal insulation.

[@jackspencer8290]

@@Mrcaffinebean Ask local furniture stores and big box stores.

[@HandymanPros]

Thanks Jeff. That is some really good info !

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gabrielclymer5340]

Can always count of Jeff to be supporting a spray foam application! Haha I'm with you Jeff, so nice! Spray foam is ideal for SO many applications. I love it for drywall repairs which you encouraged me in!

[@christopherrto]

One of the first things I did when I bought my house was tear down the old 2" thick walls with fiberglass and seal my rim joists and concrete with foam board and spray foam cans. Made a massive difference. Sealing is the most important part.

[@johnevans6399]

In the UK you cannot get a mortgage if the property has spray foam insulation. Be aware!

[@carldelzer2053]

It’s because they used the wrong type. They used an open cell spray foam, along with poor installation. Closed cell is completely different. My entire home, roof, walls are closed cell spray foamed. There’s no issue with it, nor insurance issues.

[@petesjk]

This is because of the improper application of spray foam. If you decide to use spray foam insulation, make sure you hire a proper building engineer. You have to have a relatively more advanced knowledge of building thermodynamics than average Joe day laborers.

[@scotteric8711]

Spray foam has had more time in Europe than the US, and they learned why to not use it already.

[@petesjk]

@ I’ve seen great spray foam installations, but for each one there were hours each of analysis, evaluation and preparation trying to understand the thermodynamics, humidity and moisture issues of the house. You can’t just hire an insulation guy and have him spray foam into your house.

[@carldelzer2053]

⁠@@scotteric8711the spray foamed used in Europe was largely open cell. Something that requires vapour barriers. Closed cell in itself is a vapour barrier. I built my own home, had the walls, roof, garage ceiling all closed cell spray foamed. My humidity levels are controlled by a heat pump, and an ERV unit. My monthly power bill towards heating is $50. I’m a home builder. I know what I’m talking about. Closed cell spray foamed used homes are vastly superior.

[@callsignprofessor]

Lots of countries in the EU move away from spray foam due to all the heath risks it has. I use PIF in my home which works amazing!

[@freedomfilledlife]

Does it rot behind the foam? Next to the rim joist?

[@SavageBits]

If water gets in, rot is likely.

[@zachv2409]

Yes it will, 100%. Our 1949 house had the basement joists all spray foamed, over the top of moisture infiltration, Rot, and rodent infestation (by prev owner). We then had to manually chip out the spray foam, it was HORRIBLE. Spray foam is great, until it isn't. We had to not only remove all that closed cell foam, but also replace 100% of the rim joists and completely un-finish most of the basement to clean up the mess, it has been a nightmare. We plan to re-insulate those joist spaces but never never never gonna do 100% spray foam again. Gotta balance insulation R Value with maintainability.

[@blazinmark1]

When we purchased our first 2-Family home in December of 2022 here in NYC we started our full-gut renovation. It was a serious and expensive endeavor. When the demo was complete, and the joists were visible, it was time to choose the right insulation. We decided to use closed Cell foam (4 inches) in the basement and open Cell Foam (12 inches) on the first and 2nd floor outer walls. Little did I know that was the right choice at the time. National Grid our utility company offered a $25,000 rebate at the time. The job was $47,000. I basically saved more than half off the cost of the insulation. My utility bills now are 40-60% less than both my neighbors to the left and right of me. If you can afford it, use spray foam insulation. It will pay for itself in time.

[@hugoglenn9741]

Neighbor got house redone in moist Charleston with spray foam, now he’s replacing all of window frames and plywood/osb bracing

[@samuelbrady8879]

Love the idea of spray foam but getting a bit skittish about off gassing and I think some insurance companies are having a problem

[@peterkn2]

I recall hearing about a house that had it's attic spray foamed, but it didn't cure properly, so it made them sick weeks or months later. I worry, too.

[@asheburypress882]

@@peterkn2I think it also has to do with moisture getting trapped and causing rot and mold.

[@agenericyoutubehandle]

It's moisture getting trapped from not having airflow/sealing everything up, or using open cell instead of closed cell

[@Windiguana]

The problem with insurance you are hearing about has to do with when there was a government incentive to add open cell spray foam to really old homes roofs in the UK, vapor barrier wasn't used, the roof decks were old and not great candidates for spray foam let alone improperly applied or speced spray foam at that.

[@acchaladka]

Many insurance companies are refusing to insure this system, correct. Reasons include higher insulation failure rates over shorter times, moisture issues, chemical exposure, and poor fire performance compared to the best options like mineral wool. Basically when walls burn, spray foam can generate toxic smoke which overcomes residents much quicker - this system and foam panels are major health concerns in my understanding.

[@glurp1er]

I'm unconfortable watching him using this foam product without at least a FFP2 mask on, especially at 7:14.

[@CaedenV]

On the DIY front, just get cheap thin foam board, and some cheap spray foam. All that really matters is the vapor barrier aspect, and use the spray foam as glue/filling. Remove the existing bats (if you even have them) and pre-cut and fit the board insulation in place... Because old homes used 16" spacing as more an estimate than a rule lol. Then remove the board, spray the edges, a couple dabs in the middle, and press the board into the foam. No gaps, great cheap vapor barrier, a decent R-Value, and a minimal air pocket trapped behind the board. Then spray along the contact points of the joysts and the floor above and wall below, and cover any exposed brick/block/slab with a thin layer to prevent any potential leaks and sneak in to break up as many thermal bridges as possible. Finally, shove whatever batting that will fit within the remaining space. Most of the improvements will be from the vapor barrier preventing air exchange and breaking up thermal bridges. It is a basement, and ground is a stable temp, so the r-value of the top 8-20" of wall exposed to the elements isn't the same concern as it is for walls above ground. Batting is more to prevent empty cavities for critters and free air exchange, and to offer some noise control and vibration dampening. Because of that I am partial to using rock wool sound reducing insulation instead of fluffy pink stuff, because the insulation benefit is minimal for both, but the heavy thick noise insulation offers more tangible benefits. Lastly, keep health in mind. They didn't vapor barrier old homes because it often wasn't even an option before the mid70s, and it wasn't cheap until the 90s. This meant that homes had to breathe along with ever changing humidity conditions to prevent rott and mold issues. So when you seal that all up, you are breaking how the house is designed to work, and you are trapping everything inside, with few systems to purge anything, which can (dare I say will) make you sick. Humidity and mold issues are the immediate and obvious concern, so get a good stand alone dehumidifier with a hose option that can sit in the basement and drain freely to a sink or sump pump. As long as it is in a room with a vent and return, a single dehumidifier will help the whole house. But there are other considerations of a tight house. Volitiles from cleaning products, carcinogens from candles and cooking, radon, pet allergens, small gas leaks from old connections or poor venting from the stove or hvac, all things that would normally get flushed through your home because of easy air exchange... But once your home is sealed up, you are building that stuff up. As a start, get some good air filters and a box fan on a timer, and have it run periodically and change the filters religiously. Like the dehumidifier, it can run in the basement and help a lot for the whole house as long as there is a vent, return, and your hvac runs regularly to cycle air through the whole house. I am hesitant to suggest getting better filters for the hvac directly, because if you are in an old home with an old hvac, it likely isn't designed to fight the added pressure of anything more than a basic dust filter. Using good filters in an old system will prevent airflow, add strain to the system, and likely cause premature wear and tear on parts. Let your old hvac just move air through the house, and use something else to actually clean the air. The better option though is to add a fresh air exchange to your basement. It's like leaving the window open, or working the way your house was designed to breathe originally, but without the heat loss. They aren't terribly expensive... But I haven't bit the bullet on one yet because I have an old home with plenty of other issues to address 😅. Point is, insulating is only half the battle! A much needed and important half, and I would never suggest people not insulate... But insulating an old home without also addressing the need for more active air cleaning and recycling isn't really doing any favors. Saving a couple thousand dollars a year on heating and cooling every year in exchange for developing weird health issues that are difficult to diagnose or treat isn't actually an improvement.

[@Brante81]

Good points for sure! Thank you

[@DustinRogersinMO]

We bought our house in the late summer/early fall 2020 and the basement was already finished. That first winter revealed A LOT of air sealing issues. I wish I could tear it all out and insulate like this. The basement is so cold.

[@lb1438]

Good video. Thanks!