Audemars Piguet Royal Oak vs Bulgari Octo Finissimo Auto 102945 15202ST.OO.1240ST.0 Watch Review

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Audemars Piguet vs Bulgari is not a routine comparison. AP is known for its nearly 140 years of continuous premium watch production. In contrast, Bulgari only became a true luxury watch manufacture in the year 2000 - the same year that Audemars celebrated its 125th anniversary. Today, the upstart Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic takes the fight to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” in a matchup of worth rival and reigning champion.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin (“Jumbo”) is a faithful update of the 1972 Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak 5402. Today’s Royal Oak Jumbo goes by the reference 15202ST.OO.1240ST.0, and it maintains closer ties to its pioneering ancestor than the rival Patek Philippe Nautilys 5711 maintains to its 1976 reference 3700. The Royal Oak Extra Thin is 39mm in diameter, 8.1mm thick, built with a true-to-history monobloc stainless steel case, and it is powered by the same Audemars Piguet caliber 2121 from 1972’s debut model.
Today’s Royal Oak 15202ST includes the boutique-exclusive blue galvanized “Petite Tapisserie” hobnail dial. As ever, the dial is cut on a pantograph engine, but the work has been done in-house by AP since 2012. And that was the year that this particular version of the Jumbo launched at SIHH. Its dial features are completed by a date window, white gold hour indices and hands, and Super Luminova for night time use.
AP’s caliber 2121 is an ultra-thin automatic movement based on the 1967 Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 ebauche designed for Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin 2121 (3.05mm with date) beats at 19,800 vibrations per hour, and its power reserve amounts to 40 hours. A Gyromax-style free sprung balance, 36 jewels, 50-meter water resistance, and a solid gold skeletonized winding mass complete the roster of refinements.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic launched at Baselworld 2017 and made an immediate impact among watch collectors and the industry at large. Its 40mm sandblasted titanium case is only 5.15mm thick, and that was sufficient at the time to establish the reference 102945 as the world’s thinnest automatic watch. Accolades continued all the way to the 2017 GPHG at which the Octo Finissimo Automatic was awarded the “Best Men’s Watch” prize - quite an honor within an industry that is dominated by men’s watches.
The titanium case, bracelet, and folding clasp of the Octo Finissimo Automatique ensure a remarkably comfortable stance on the wrist of its owner. A dial of matching sandblasted titanium keeps the monotone aesthetic in place, but this 200-piece limited edition adds blue hands and blue lacquered dial features.
Within the ultra-thin titanium case, the Octo Finissimo Automatic sports a manufacture caliber BVL138 automatic movement. Winding is accomplished by means of a platinum winding mass with ceramic rotor bearings; a 55-hour power reserve surpasses that of the Royal Oak. A full balance bridge, 21,600 VpH beat rate, 36 jewels, and 30-meter water resistance round out the features. This 2.23mm ultra-thin movement is 36.6mm in diameter, and it fills the sapphire display caseback of the Octo Finissimo Automatique in magnificent fashion. Finish is high horology-level with mirrored anglage, perlage engine turning on the base plate, poli noir (black polish) on screw heads, and cotes de Geneve stripes across the bridges.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is encased in 40 mm of titanium on a titatnium bracelet. Features include hours, minutes, and small-seconds. The watch also measures 5.1 mm in thickness and 48.8 mm from lug-to-lug.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is encased in 39 mm of stainless steel surrounding a bracelet. The watch also measures 8.1 mm in thickness and 47.8 mm from lug-to-lug.
For complete details, watch the full review!
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[@JBOsurf]

Bulgari has arrived as a watchmaker. The octo finissimo started them on their way, the recently release chronograph saw them bust down the door.

[@b.satrya918]

*bought their way

[@silverlakeas]

Got to go with the Octo. Getting tired of the AP RO. Yes it is an all time classic but the Bulgari is bringing something new to the table & for a lot less money.

[@kentkochheiser911]

Having and loving both, the Octo (non LE) gets the lion's share of the wrist time. It's amazing on the wrist and the movement is a time keeping marvel. The AP feels a bit more delicate and is certainly more prone to scratches and I fear less robust. Tim also missed the non quick set date on the Jumbo which is enough of a pain that I often just don’t bother to set it. I would sell neither. They are both beyond wonderful. But the Octo is special.

[@MrRoyck10]

Briliant head - head analysis with Tim spitting pure knowledge beyond the realms of other watch channels!

[@AbdulRWatches]

Somehow i really prefer the Bulgari, although everyone i know would just not give it a flinch. I think that the Octo Finissimo will be a future favorite, surpassing the Royal Oak for the coolest luxury sports watch. (Not including the Nautilus of course :D)

[@tomkhong9828]

The Old king is dethroned . Love the Italian flair

[@bobrouleau7410]

Octo, no question.

[@jayebirdjb7143]

That Bulgari, oh yeah!!!

[@sbsb4995]

Bulgari is absolutely the top brand. Respect. It made Rolex looks and feels like plastic watches.

[@tomyummy1]

On merit alone - I gotta say BVGARI. Factor in the hype + crazy resale value, history, status/name recognition then AP RO...IF comparing at MSRP... I would not pay the ridiculous 38K secondary price for the AP...and good luck waltzing into an AP boutique and buying at retail.

[@thawasly]

Great review! And nice comment directly to the altiplano fanatics! Bvlgari for me please.

[@colinbrown3225]

I’d agree cracking watch the new chronograph is excellent but the new black ceramic is super hot 🥵

[@Astral-Cosmonaut]

My first piece would be the AP my second would be the Octo Both my favourite watches of all time

[@kathekollwitz7910]

Yes. I got the tiny titanium for under 10 k.

[@duncanleckie5639]

Soooo at the Bulgari Boutique at Capri recently and tried this beauty on and at the same time asked the very Italian sales person regarding pronunciation lol .... Booooool gari no Bul etc .... it’s a Roman U but not pronounced the same

[@locutusdborg126]

Vulgar-eee.

[@tccycling]

Okay the Octo is growing on me

[@themanuman]

The octo finissimo titanium ISN'T hypoallergenic. The clasp is still made from stainless steel which still causes irritation if you are allergic to nickel. I can only see appreciation with them over time tho

[@menaseven9093]

I think the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is the winner because the AP dial, display case back and bracelet are more beautiful then the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. I am a lover of big watch not thin watch but I appreciate the thin watch technology.

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Thanks for sharing your pick and why! Can't go wrong with either one! - WatchBox Team

[@nocturnalme3549]

The finnismo is just simply too thin..I tried both and the finnismo feels like a toy watch it's fun but not sensible. The watch I ended up buying though was in fact an octo. But I went with the octo solotempo 38mm. It's more solid and a bit thicker. But it's more true to the original genta concept. The finnismo is beautiful but father away from his original design. Also the sizing, the 41mm is way too big. My 38 fits larger like a Rolex 40mm. It's the perfect size. And I got mine in the rarest ss and rose gold model. I bought the last one available in the US online for 6000$ lol. 2019 model box and papers. I'm pretty sure I've made a great investment, idk if it will go up in value but I'm sure to get most of that back one day. Royal oak is simply way too expensive and over hyped. Same with most Rolex and patek. If you don't mind paying thru the nose go ahead. Even though my octo isn't anything that will blow you're mind, I bet I could find you ten Royal oaks or pateks before someone could locate my model for sale. So which one is rarer? I think I win

[@csabah.6251]

Nice pieces. Hard to decide. Bvlgari has the interesting design with that super slim case. AP is the more established brand and from that PoV it is the safer choice

[@micahstrader3809]

I respect what Bulgari has done, tried on the Octo, it’s great. However, I own the 15202 and prefer it against all comers in the class including the Octo, Nautilus, Overseas, etc.

[@philipmcritchie7309]

yes the bulgari is cool but come on guys.. i think you know really if you were offered one for free...

[@rodneynielsen1442]

I love my Octo

[@poopy_fingers3324]

When doing head-to-heads it’s hard not to be influenced by hype, brand recognition, price, etc. but it’s hard not to like the Bulgari. I’m digging the look and the thinness is ridiculous. My pick is the bulgari.

[@1973833]

I’m a huge AP Jumbo fan,but the prices unfortunatelly sky rocketed aftermarket,which i’m not willing to pay.So the Bvlgari seems a great alternative.Not even this limited edition,just the ordinary one with the same case/bracelet material.Great looking watch for a bargain,compared it to Jumbo.

[@花旗陳冠希]

Octo finissimo all day everyday

[@keitumetsemabuza9940]

Royal oak easily

[@007oli]

I love the Audemars Piguet however the non boutique version of the Octo, white dial, black numerals with bracelet can be had in Europe for 9000 euros or less for a good example, at that price and not being a rich man that would be my choice. Great video as well always Tim.

[@doublehh666]

Oli Smith with the Dollar strong and Euro weak, and the fact that quite a bit of VAT is refunded back to non EU passport holders, I’m surprised more of us Yanks aren’t going to Europe to buy new and second hand at reputable dealers there to get a true value.

[@fredtafel]

Octo for sure. Never understood the hype with the RO and I think it’s boring and way overpriced

[@richardbaptist5080]

I think I'll go with the champion AP for now. AP should be looking over their shoulder at Bulgari. If this was the matt gold Bulgari, I'd give it the win. AP wins with the dial and the applied indicies. I think I prefer the Bulgari movement. These watches are neck and neck. AP wins with the bracelet. So AP for the win - barely.

[@AtheistOrphan]

I tried on the Octo in Harrods last week. Fantastic but £12,100.

[@BenTramer]

Jumbo

[@MarioGonzalez-yq3gw]

Love the AP, but the absent second hand disturbs me. I bet it doesn't bother some people, but it bothers me.

[@deasman8173]

I'm pretty sure the clasp in the Octo is ceramic and not titanium....

[@notazip6814]

Octo … modern understated genta . Eternal classic

[@BenTramer]

Love the zen quality of the AP dial with no seconds hand.

[@mckinley8185]

Which watch has better MOVEMENT finishing and could you explain why?

[@dr.flatout4274]

The 2 movement are Boht good but the 2121 is better finished more anglage and Detailing If you See in real life you can understand. Bulgari is good in Finishing but is Not Ap or Lange and the 2121 is one of the Most stunning automatic extra Thin movment.

[@seaweed719]

I would go with the Octo. At this time AP RO is overhyped and many of us are sick of this manipulation of market trends. Not to mention Octo is technologically more interesting and more comfortable to wear.

[@berlimett]

The APs 5 ATM are just ridiculous... makes it almost unwearable at this price point.

[@blazinmark1]

Royal Oak 10 out of 10 times!

[@alfonsoluisalfaromarroquin4958]

I would Get Both! No doubt about it

[@thegorn]

At the end of the day the Bvlgari is vulgar-y. Tech means nothing if it looks shite ( and it looks shite)

[@musicazen6868]

🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@kathekollwitz7910]

Strong arguments.

[@JackBarnes14]

I'll take both!!...

[@SuperBullyone]

excellent review

[@feedthefatrabbit1073]

Gimme the challenger...

[@sungkim1933]

Octo roma vs ap RO?

[@ma61king]

Both please, but make the AP a 15500

[@BloodSoakedGoat]

discord.gg/aJEnjN

[@wesleylu7383]

Royal Oak no brainer. That Octo looks ugly as fk

[@DGT86]

Octo

[@craigrees7939]

Compelling verdict!

[@tobbe1312]

I like it alot very cool

[@the1916companywatchreviews]

Which one, or both!? :) - WatchBox Team

[@tobbe1312]

Yeah both 😊 But AP is a classic, Bulgari is mad cool

[@elesmarton1marton197]

Cat face ceasu bulgari

[@SuperEmlo]

Bulgari looks like low resolution watch from GTA

[@KRBY555]

The fact you can't swim kills it for me. Oh and the price.

[@gmshadowtraders]

If you even look at it for too long it will probably get water damage. Fragile POS. lol

[@gmshadowtraders]

@I It's the fact that my Seiko shitters have double the water resistance at 100m, which solidifies that the swiss luxury watch industry is full of shit. Next time be careful who you belittle here buddy, some of us are highly knowledgeable about watches.

[@NoOne-ki3bm]

I don’t know why, but the Bulgari looks cheap. I wonder if it’s because it’s so thin it’s hard to believe it’s an automatic watch. Anyways, my vote goes Royal Oak.

[@Khanh.Nguyen369]

When I think sport watch, Bulgari Octo is not even in the conversation or genre. Weird versus. Might as well do a Offshore versus a Reverso. Keep up the great work otherwise Watchbox.