Audi Q5 CV and axle replacement, real-time easy method!

A few tips and tricks to swapping out your passenger side axle on a 2013 Audi Q5 2.0 TFSI.
The same procedure applies to the driver side. The driver side axle can be more easily removed by sliding the shaft further back, as the heat shields are only on the passenger side.
I hope this helps!

[@hazelpdxpdx543]

Just finished replacing passenger side cv axle on 2015 Q5 2.0. Big shout out to ADJP! Couldn't have done it "the easy way" without your video. Thank you x 100! People like you are saints for sharing your knowledge on KZbin. I have a couple of hints that have been touched on but are worth underscoring again. I was in a massive rush to get this fixed so I settled for an AutoZone DuraLast axle. Did my research. Made by Trakmotive. 100% certain about that. Napa and O'Reiily's also peddle Trakmotive axels under their own names for the same car. (AD-8175 printed on all three.). By the way, if you have the time for shipping then Rock Auto is significantly less $$ than all three. Removing the front and mid under-panels was helpful and removing the textured aluminum heat shield was critical. I wish I would have figured that out sooner. Heat shield requires removing two 10mm and one 13mm bolts and sliding it out of the way. Easy to access if car is jacked up high enough to lay on your back under car. Jack stands are critical. Removing the axle after removing the bolts was easier than I expected. I pushed the inner hub upward and to the right (toward front of car) while I literally rolled the the outer hub toward the back of car. Hard to explain and perhaps I got lucky. When placing the new axle in I put all my energy in to aligning the splined axel-end into the wheel hub and somehow it just popped in. Again, I think I may just have gotten lucky, and I have no real way to explain. I think it's trial and error. I re-installed the six M10 triple-square bolts for inner hub from underneath the car while on my back looking up. So much easier than when I removed them using long extensions as in the video. Torqued from under car as well. nReinstalled heat shield and under panels. 19mm hex required to remove OEM axle bolt, BUT 17mm hex socket required to install aftermarket Trakmotive axle bolt. PITA! Test drove at 55mph. All good as far as I can tell.

[@ADJPoirier]

Thanks for your feedback and tips!👍 Glad to hear that you were able to get it done with such ease.

[@joetang3600]

there are three 10mm bolts on the heat shield. Just remove it and will continue tomorrow.

[@rolandfeldmeier1172]

This video was a huge help! Thanks for sharing. I tackled the project with a positive outcome today. A couple of added tips: 1) make sure you pre-order the 19mm (3/4”) Hex by 1/2” socket drive. In my area, I had drive 80 miles round trip because t isn’t not a common socket that is stocked. You can order online and have it delivered, but I need to get this done today. 2) I purchased a replacement axle from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts… while the part fits fine, be prepared that the bolt that comes with the new axle requires a 5/8” Hex. 3) I bought a 3-piece extra long extension kit it worked splendidly. A couple of the triple square bolts required a wobble attachment 4) on my 2014 Q5, the axle came out very easily. No pry bar required. Once the 6 inner bolts were all removed, I slid the inner axle toward the rear of the wheel well into an opening and then I used a 5# sledge to hit the loosened hub bolt to knock the axle out of the wheel. I slid the axel more into the opening and then easily removed it from the rear wheel well. Thanks again for posting this video. It was extremely helpful. One last note, the video shows the reverse direction for loosening the bolts. Always remember, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. 🤣😂

[@ADJPoirier]

Thanks for your comment! Great advice. The video unfortunately mirrored when I uploaded, so bolts appear to be reverse threaded, they are not.

[@acarpenter1332]

Very nice. My wife’s 2015 busted a boot as well, though we caught it day of and the axle seems to be in good shape. Watching this, I wish I would’ve just ordered the whole axle instead of the boot kit.

[@jasonhunt4647]

This was extremely helpful. The driver's side is MUCH easier than the passenger side. I read the comments below and do agree that removing the head shield helps a ton. Still a little tight, but you can kind of "roll" it in there instead of man-handling it so hard. Driver's side is essentially effortless.

[@StoriesForTheGrandYounglings]

I would add, on the passenger side you will want to remove the one exposed bolt (6mm allen) for the heat shield. Removing this one bolt makes a HUGE difference in the aggravation level. I don't think this is an issue on the driver side.

[@hazelpdxpdx543]

for my 2015 2.0 I had to remove three bolts (two 10mm and one 13mm) to remove the heat shield but so worth the time and effort. I wish I would have done this from the start. Would have saved me two hours of frustration before finally deciding to remove under-panels and remove heat shield.

[@joelpearson8623]

Thank you!!! Everyone shows the driver’s side and it’s not as difficult! Three little bolts 👍I’m on it! 😃

[@Hummerdirtbag]

Awesome vid! Super helpful. Love your apprentice!

[@sepehrfadaei7564]

Great video. And you obviously have the skills to do it. I am just concerned for your safety if you are not using any jack stand or some support and the car was only on the factory jack during all this.

[@ADJPoirier]

You make a great point that I failed to mention. I have a tire placed under the front bumper in this case; however, I would recommend using a heavy jack with a pinch weld adapter. Do not use jack stands on the bushings for the lower A arm, as you can crush these bushings easily. You also want the suspension fully extended so all lift points should be unsprung. Always confirm your wheels are chalked and parking brake set. Ideally avoid using the factory jack ( as I have done here) and support the vehicle with a stationary object like a tire or proper jack stands.

[@dego8032]

Thanks for the video

[@TheRicardoSanchez]

Thanks for videoing that man. I get to do the same freaking thing tomorrow.

[@ThatMan6969]

How did you know you needed a new cv joint??? Was it making a click sound when accelerating?

[@TheRicardoSanchez]

@@ThatMan6969 two very tell-tale indicators - depending on how far it's gone.... 1)clicking when turning and 2)noticed some grease around inner wheel where it shouldn't be. At quick glance looked like maybe some mud splashed on it but then did double-take and saw grease. That told me the clicking I just heard was CV. Looked behind wheel at CV boot and it was shredded. That's where the grease came from and validated my assumption about the clicking. Overall "easy" job but Audi does some stupid things with bolts and sizing. Nuisance more than anything.

[@dashiznit89]

Thank you. I was looking into what this job takes and it's not that bad. I'm going to do both front axles and rotors and pads because it needs it. Plus with the caliper unbolted and suspended I can remove the axle stub a little easier.

[@ADJPoirier]

It's definitely a good time to take care of all that while you're already in there. Best of luck!

[@dashiznit89]

@@ADJPoirier Seattle Audi dealership quoted my cousin $1600 for the front outer boots and $1000 for front brakes. Probably just pad slap. I can do front axles and Bosch brakes and rotors for $300 from Rock Auto. Sheesh. But thanks tho for the video. Top shelf.

[@imanudistperson]

I did this just last week on my 2016. Take off the heat shield. No pry bar necessary and you don’t run the risk of damaging anything

[@ADJPoirier]

True this would have helped make some more room for sure

[@ThatMan6969]

hey prior to getting the new cv joint when you would accelerate in your Q5 would it make a tick sound like if you get the gas hard would it then do that or no?

[@jeffreycuadros1685]

Thank You Very Much!!

[@howd2007]

I found that the replacement half-shaft was slightly smaller when completely compressed. It makes the re-assembly much easier. The passenger side...Arrrgh!!

[@aaroncarpenter2999]

I was so confused for a sec scrolling through at 4:30. Why is he tightening those lug bolts so tight??? Flipped image got me.

[@kevintdickson]

good point, there are NO left hand threads anywhere.

[@Rugger123D]

I apologize if this question is dumb to some of you, but would this be the same method replacing an axle on a 2009 Audi Q5?

[@MichaelSnyder1990]

Thank you for posting such a great video. Is the axle bolt right hand thread or left hand thread? I couldn't tell from your video and I'm not sure if the picture is reversed or not.

[@davegladys9820]

I was thinking the same thing until all the bolts were reverse threaded including the wheel bolts. Video was reversed for some reason. Great video as I’ve done this before and was in need of a refresher.

[@ADJPoirier]

Video was reversed for some reason. I. Working on the passenger side here but it appears to be driver's side. All bolts have regular right hand thread.

[@mugenyijozy3520]

Hey Mr Andrew, thank you for that fantastic video! good work bro’ my Audi Q5 2015 busted the boot Axle, how does it cost to buy one and where I can get a good price please? Can still drive it for 3 to 4 day with that problem? Then I fix it? Thank you buddy!

[@ADJPoirier]

The longer it's driven with a broken boot, the greater your chances of getting foreign debris into the joint. Sand and dirt act like sandpaper in the joint, allowing for more movement and greater tolerances; the sooner you change it the better. You will have to split the axel to change the boots - which are typically cheap to purchase. ~$20

[@keronplaza]

Audi will replace the boot for $800. For that much, you can replace 2 axles and buy all the needed tools. I got 2 axles for $260. Audi charges $1900 per side.

[@anandramalingam9240]

@@keronplaza where did you buy the axle

[@keronplaza]

@@anandramalingam9240 Amazon. The dealer was gonna charge me 4500 to replace one axle. I spent $1000 in tools and parts and did both. And now I have a GREAT set of tools.

[@rolandfeldmeier1172]

@@anandramalingam9240 I bought one axle at O’Reilly’s Auto Parts (California) for approximately $175 + tax. Spent $8 for the 19mm Hex head 1/2” socket at Napa Auto Parts, $25 for a 3-piece socket extension kit, $40 on a pair of 3-ton stands, $28 for a 9-piece hex head bundle that had the 19mm head 3/8” socket (this kit was rendered useless because my 1/2” to 3/8” socket conversion snapped and the drive is now stuck in the socket and paid $18 for the 4-piece triple square kit. All in all, $125 in new tools that will have other uses now, $175 for the axle = $300, plus 60 - 90 minutes of time. We’ll worth doing the project yourself, just take your time, be careful, and have fun with it. 😁

[@danielmedina54]

I did not see it in the video, but after seating the CV bolt and after the car is lowered, is this when you torque the CV bolt? Thanks

[@ADJPoirier]

Yes, I didn't show. You are correct, lower the vehicle to the ground and then torque the center CV bolt to145 ft/lb (200Nm) and additional 90⁰-180⁰ turn. The smaller tipple square bolts that attach the upper end of CV to transmission are torqued to 51.5 ft/lb or 70Nm

[@danielmedina54]

@@ADJPoirier Thank you for the clarification!

[@marko_._]

What about the same method on B6 Passat 2009? Is it possible to get the CV axle out without removing the control arm bolts?

[@ADJPoirier]

I don't have experience with the Passat, I would hope that this method would work just the same. Best of luck!

[@user-rr7km1gp7m]

On my 2015 Q5 this passenger side method does NOT work as there is an additional shroud around the inside hub that restricts its movement. This shroud also interferes with getting the wonky 12-point socket on the bolts. My socket is a 3/8. You would be better off with a 1/4 socket if you can find one. Make sure you have some good flexible magnetic pickup tools as you will need them to retrieve bolts. It was necessary to disconnect the 2 upper control arms to get clearance on the outer hub. I was fortunate that the cinch bolt holding these on was easy to remove at 87K miles. Just some hammering with a drift pin (punch) will pop up the control arms. To reinstall the control arms, straightening the wheels will make it easier. If the cinch bolt can be moved just do this from the start. Easier than the 'easy' method.

[@ADJPoirier]

thanks for your comment. This and the prior comment from @hazelpxdpxd543 will help those with models that require the extra space to carry out the install. 👍

[@user-rr7km1gp7m]

@@ADJPoirier Also meant to thank you for your video. Just didn't fully work on my machine.

[@kevinhowe8080]

is the axle bolt reverse thread? I'm replacing the drivers side CV joint and the bolt won't budge. The video looks reverse, but that might be the camera recording displaying it as opposite.

[@ADJPoirier]

The image is flipped in this portion of the video, no reverse thread. Best of luck. Check some other comments here for tips.

[@UKdudeLA]

Im struggling with passenger side to get it out . did you have to remove anything else to get it in smoothly? i can't tell when you putting on new axel if video is from drivers side or passenger side. Thanks

[@ADJPoirier]

You can remove the heat shield (aluminum) on the passenger side to give you more room. The drivers side is easier to do. Passenger side took a bit more patience

[@UKdudeLA]

@@ADJPoirier Thank you. Heat shield seems painful to remove. i looked at but couldn't even figure out where to start with it. did you have to use any pry bars to wiggle in axle or you were able to do with bare hands? if you did it i should be able to do it...

[@ADJPoirier]

Got it in place by hand, used a part bar initially to get it out. Make sure the steering wheel is turned all the way to the drive side if working on passenger and vice versa.

[@UKdudeLA]

@@ADJPoirier thanks Andrew again for showing the video, job done! i was able to wiggle in cv axle by hand fairly quickly , then assemble all together smoothly. FOR EVERYONE ELSE: its easier if you jack up both sides of the car , so when you remove or assemble inner axle bolts (6) , you can just rotate the axle/rotor and line up bolts to the easiest access point with straight line (for me it was if you look towards engine about 8/9 o'clock spot on passenger side). Just stick the screwdriver in the rotor outer holes between the break caliper so axle doesn't spin while you working on each bolt. i bought originally outer boot replacement kit , but having axle pulled , i decided to change whole thing ( bought at Autozone - "Duralast" brand). Good luck

[@alzens1]

How much torque does Audi reguire on drive bolt for front cv

[@ADJPoirier]

Center bolt is 148 ft/lb plus an additional 90⁰ turn

[@soundnstyl]

Do you recommend the aftermarket axle or should I go OEM?

[@ADJPoirier]

I went with aftermarket. Seems to be holding up perfectly and is a fraction of the OEM price

[@alzens1]

How much torque should be applied for front cv on Audi Q5

[@ADJPoirier]

145 ft/lb 200Nm and additional 90⁰-180⁰ turn for the large center bolt. The smaller tipple square bolts that attach the upper end of CV to transmission are torqued to 51.5 ft/lb or 70Nm

[@steveverwys950]

Why does it appear that everything in your video has left hand threads? I just did this, and everything was right hand threads. Am i missing something?

[@ADJPoirier]

Everything is right handed, lefty looseie righty tighty. Some shots - where I am in the frame- are filmed in selfie mode which resulted in a mirrored image. I am working on the passenger side of the car in these shots.

[@franciscovillarroel2912]

Man I’m struggling to get the new axel in on the passenger side…. Any suggestions not sure why it’s Soo difficult it I’m struggling.

[@ADJPoirier]

It may help you to remove the heat shield. It also requires twisting the axle into place. If the way you are trying is binding up, try coming in from another angle

[@franciscovillarroel2912]

Got her in, only thing i shouldn’t have done was to let the driver side down. Once I lifted it back up, I was able to rotate in easily when it got into its bind! Thanks for the reply!

[@mytuberforyou]

Is this video mirrored, or is the axle bolt reverse thread, and is that the driver's side? Confused.

[@ADJPoirier]

I filmed part of the video with my front camera and it flipped the image, should have fixed in post but I forgot 🤷‍♂️

[@mytuberforyou]

@@ADJPoirier Thanks for clarifying! And for the video, ordered the 19mm hex and 10mm triple square and have to do this next week!

[@jacobbrozenick8366]

Is that first bolt opposite threaded or is the video inverted

[@ADJPoirier]

@@jacobbrozenick8366 video inverted🪞

[@jacobbrozenick8366]

Thanks! Great video btw, just finished mine, way easier job than expected.

[@ADJPoirier]

Glad it helps. It's worth trying to tackle for mechanically inclined people; good on ya 👍

[@cbejec]

Question how much did you pay for that CV axle joint? $56 bucks only?

[@ADJPoirier]

I think It ended up being about twice that once shipping was involved

[@edgarborjas699]

From where?

[@djmystery7235]

Are the axle nuts reverse threaded?

[@ADJPoirier]

No, normal threads, video flipped when I filmed using the front camera in my cell

[@robertbrunell9929]

Where did you get that axel??? Please help

[@ADJPoirier]

It takes a few weeks! They are actually remanufactured. You can order through Napa auto or online. I think these were "Cardone"

[@robertbrunell9929]

@@ADJPoirier ... thank you so much. You had no problems with them? No vibration or anything? Again thank you 1300 dollars for an OE is ridiculous

[@ADJPoirier]

No issues at all. Drives the same as OE. Can also get the TrackMotive AD-8164. A Brand new axle that is far more economical than the OE option

[@byrdw.7415]

I just want to send my car and pay you to fix it🥴🥴 I’m handy but not this good!! Lol

[@ADJPoirier]

You can figure it out. One step at a time; the right tools make all the difference 👍

[@rolandfeldmeier1172]

I just completed the driver side axle replacement, it is really easy using this video as a guide. Have some penetrating oil, a small sledge hammer, and a butane torch (extremely optional to help break the wheel hub bolt loose of rust).