Audi TT Wheel Bearing Replacement (on vehicle)

[@boastyy]

Thanks for the video. One thing to watch is when I put the bolts back in I always screw them in by hand to start them off, then use the impact on them. Its very easy to cross thread with the impact and it will cut its own threads as it tightens. I was unlucky enough to see a local tyre fitting shop tighten up my wheels without checking them by hand. It was too late when I noticed and they had completely destroyed the threads on one bolt and the hub.

[@nicmasterdude]

Saved my bacon. After 215k miles, my bearings were a little wobbly!

[@jimevans2440]

You made that look so easy. I'm sure having the right tools is 90% of the job. I need to have this done to my '02 TT along with having the axle replaced because of a torn boot.

[@legendofLINK445]

Ikr, 10min video but it would definitely take me all day lol

[@stevesloan6775]

Excellent video! I’m currently installing front CV boots on my Mk1 TT Quattro and learned a lot from You efforts. Thank you 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🤓😎

[@EddieRicks-i8v]

I had a friend do this job for a few hundred dollars back 15 years ago on a vw I went to a dealership and they want 1500 bucks 😂😬🙄 next time I going to shop around

[@johnathandoerty1021]

Great step-by-step Video. Thank you for helping me out with my TT. - 👍💯

[@larryreno8293]

NEVER press the bearing in on the inner bearing race, this will damage the new bearing.

[@wizkid01]

When you were installing the new bearing, I'm sure you were pressing on the internal race rather than outer. That is not the right way to do it.

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

I typically do press on the outer portion of the bearing race but in this application I didn't have a pressing flange that fit the outer race. I have three different brands of wheel hub service kits and none had a flange that would fit into the knuckle and still press on the outer race without damaging the seal. When this happens I just press on the inner race. I have done 30-40 VW and Audi bearing this way with out problem but then again I live in a low rust area. If the knuckle had rust build up and the pressing force required was more I suppose it could dimple the races and the ball bearings and lead to a noisy bearing and premature bearing failure. Perhaps I will machine one down to fit the VW applications. Thanks for the tip.

[@wizkid01]

@@ThePracticalMechanic there are ways to do press bearings and ways not to - your method which you've just demonstrated should be avoided at all costs irrespective whether the installation seems fine or not.

[@yesiamtom12]

@@ThePracticalMechanic I just had to do this job and didn't really have any of the right tools for it. I found that once I had the old bearing out I could tear it apart and use the outer shell of the bearing as a press for putting the new one in.

[@a.k.2023]

Super video! 👍👍👍

[@supernovaallisondunlap4558]

Good to know. Mine just went bad.

[@josepho.camachoirizarry1861]

What is the very first bit you used to remove the hub nut?

[@bubbalexi]

All these specialty tools...fuck.

[@nicmasterdude]

Gotta love VAG and BMW for this. Every damn job.

[@rvbsoundfactory]

Good job..

[@youngogclt6815]

Do you have a Quattro?

[@joeortiz6941]

Does the bearing need grease

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

They should come pregreased and assembled.

[@wranglercjseven69]

what was the torque for the 3 nuts on nlower ball joint thanks

[@ThePracticalMechanic]

The three nuts on the lower ball joint to control arm mount torque to 55 ft/lbs (75N.M) If you are working on a variant that doesn't have the adjustment point on the lower control arm and has three bolts instead of the nuts then the torque spec is 20N.M plus additional 90 degrees.