DIY Audi TT MK1 Instrument Cluster Pixel Repair Instructions

Below is a list of the parts and tools we personally use in our facility:
✓Pixel Repair Parts for Audi:
Audi TT MK1 Pixel repair service - goo.gl/aXx1FR
Audi A4 (B5), A6, Allroad Pixel repair service - goo.gl/DEtpnK
Audi TT MK1 Replacement LCD Display - goo.gl/ScjaUC
Audi A4 (B5), A6, Allroad LCD Display - goo.gl/ScjaUC
Pointer Motor for Fuel or Temperature gauge for Audi TT MK1 - goo.gl/oXB6sD
QD Contact Cleaner - amzn.to/2pQ8vAX
✓Repair for GM clusters - goo.gl/J1vbF6
✓Pixel Repair for BMW:
›Carbon cable for BMW E38, E39, E53 - goo.gl/ysSLcK
›Silver Cable for BMW E38, E39, E53 - goo.gl/twYvJ2
›LCD Display with silver cable attached for BMW E38, E39, E53 - goo.gl/YSR7dU
›40w Soldering Iron with T-Tip - goo.gl/drCrwJ
›T-Tip for 30w Soldering Iron - goo.gl/p9ppYK
›Backlight Bulbs for the display - goo.gl/f1rvvy
›Pointer Motor for Fuel, Speedometer, RPM or Coolant temperature - goo.gl/hoV1EL
›Pointer Motor for MPG, L/100km or Oil Temperature - goo.gl/7dFjFj
✓Soldering equipment we personally use in our facility:
›Soldering station - amzn.to/2CHshqV
›Soldering tip - amzn.to/2CHMlt5
›Desoldering tool - amzn.to/2CMb93k
›Fume extractor - amzn.to/2Cgz0au
›Leaded solder - amzn.to/2RKgNHD
›Power supply - amzn.to/2CcO9JD
›Multimeter - amzn.to/2RIEEqW

[@mikeyb3797]

You wonderful human being. I spent my Sunday working through this, took me a bloody long time, and I was sure I'd got something wrong, but now have a new LCD in a working cluster - many thanks! Appreciate you talking through it too, even if that damn music drilled itself into my soul.

[@gplusgplus2286]

Finally managed to find the tools and time to do this after all these years. This is the best video guide in youtube but read below. Notes: 1) The small needles were very hard to remove. I think I will need new small motors (more on that below) 2) The calibration of big needles is easy, you just turn them by hand with cluster off to align to zero. 3) The calibration of small needles you need to have the cluster open, put it in the car, load vcds, load instruments module, output test and at instruments test (first test) you install the small needles at 90 degrees (center position). This is hard to get right and my second time removing the needles the whole motor shaft came off!! Thats why I think I need new small motors. Probably best to use some silicone grease / silicone spray on the small needles so they move in and out easily. 4) All needles shouldn't go in all the way. Apart from being difficult to move (scratching the base) they have a halo lighting effect , thats why when calibrating you need to do it in a dark place, with the cluster connected to the car so the halo around them is consistent... Calibration took me almost as much as repairing the cluster (lcd screen and other problems)

[@DeanMiller1984]

This has to be the neatest soldering on KZbin

[@TheInalkii]

Thank you so much for this video. I was able to repair my cluster flawlessly with your guidance!

[@ronaldroopnarine5989]

I replayed and paused it as many times as needed and I did it. Thank you so much for the list of parts and your skill. I'm going to plug it back into the dash harnesses soon.

[@joelculler2776]

You are awesome. I am mailing my cluster to you literally tomorrow. Look for something from PA

[@DPCPhotog]

You do excellent work! Can't wait to drop off my TT cluster this Saturday. Very glad you are located close by to me.

[@Level_Up_Nation]

Love your work in this video, will be sending my cluster in!

[@jgw58]

An excellent DIY video! Many thanks!

[@HETPEZB]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rogerthat1963]

great video! Q: I have an MK1 TT as shown in vid. I had a problem with temp and fuel gauge: Fuel jumpy and temp always close to 100c. I changed the 2 step motors. Result: Temp, when engine is at warm and should read 90c, reads just below. Fuel goes to slightly above half full even with full tank. RPM and Speed all running correct. What can the problem be? Any help much appreciated. Thanks !!

[@bsc1812]

Great video, but save yourself the headache and just send it to him. Fast and clean and SOO nice to have my dash all work again.

[@UptownFights]

Hi, do you have a better close up of you soldering the fuel and temp needles register? I see the resisister, but there seams to be to soldering boxes above it that are separate. Did you solder the two boxes together or keep them separate? My speedometer needle also doesn't light up, but it did when I squeezed the circuit board a little when plugged in without housing.

[@emso8964]

Thanks for this great video. I feel like I'm going to learn to solder now so that I can do this. What is the power lead that you need to use to turn the display on and off? Can I get something that plugs into a 3pin socket or do I need that power supply box thing that you linked in the description?

[@jessmar15]

Hello can you tell me the pins that you use to create this cable and test the cluster after repair it

[@HETPEZB]

It’s been more than a decade since I made it. Google for TT cluster pinout.

[@johnpm1605]

It's a pity you're not in the UK... I have this problem plus the push buttons are almost not operational, very intermittent ☹... do you often have to replace the switches?

[@richm77]

I'll just be sending you my cluster to you guys the price is fair and it saves me from setting fire to mine.

[@HETPEZB]

))))))))))

[@Qspecialman]

An excellent video, thank you. Really interesting.

[@broncoupe]

What temperature for hot air to release lcd strip please

[@stuartmcconnachie]

14:09 Great tip about the resistor! I was actually watching this video because my engine temp and fuel needles are sometimes missing their illumination and wanted to try and identify where on the board the fault might be. If I press on the cluster right above the display and immediately between the gauges then the illumination comes back. I disassembled the cluster before and reflowed the needle illumination LEDs themselves, but that didn’t fix it. The resistor is right under the point where I press, so I guess that’s the real culprit. Time for another disassembly and to dig out the leaded solder.

[@stuartmcconnachie]

Okay - Disassembled my cluster today and reflowed that resistor.... needle illumination restored! The annoying part is that I had the LCD professionally replaced a few years ago, but they obviously didn’t bother with this very simple and quick piece of preventative maintenance.

[@KadanTKohl]

How much would this cost me to have some do it for me. I have a 2000 Audi TT Quattro

[@AlleneOlton]

My fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge is fault would changing the motors myself help?

[@HETPEZB]

Most likely yes.

[@ajrahman2304]

Can you tell me what pins on the power plug is the + and - ? Also, did you make that cable to power up the cluster for calibration?

[@DenisBIH]

What kind of SMD LEDs for backlight repair ?

[@gjnelsondotcom]

Hello! I have a cluster with a bad center digital display. I bought a new one. I am hoping I can swap them out temporarily - send the original out for repair, use the "new" one to drive temporarily. Is this possible?

[@HETPEZB]

Typically no. Usually the cluster is a part of the immobilizer system and if swapped - the vehicle won’t start. Some early models may accept this trick though.

[@gmobile612]

Hi. Do you offer this as a service?

[@HETPEZB]

I do. Details are in the description.

[@alexortiz1499]

Where can i get the flux you use and the solder

[@HETPEZB]

You'll find them on eBay or Amazon or in a lot of other places. Just google for them and you'll get a tons of results.

[@rustynailsxxx1]

I had my LCD replaced recently on my Audi TT and after reinstalling the cluster, the high beam light on it doesn't seem to work. Is there a bulb inside there that would go bad or is it something else?

[@HETPEZB]

There is a LED light. Highly unlikely to go bad.

[@rustynailsxxx1]

@@HETPEZB I notice the right bulb in front is out. Would that affect the dash light, do you know? If I replace it will the dash work again? May have just answered my own question, but never hurts to ask.

[@HETPEZB]

There are no bulbs in TT cluster. All LEDs.

[@SR-xx7cm]

Did u replace the lcd with a new one or repaired the old lcd?

[@gplusgplus2286]

Read that most replacement LCDs nowadays are too bright and almost glow red. Yours is exactly the same with the two smaller screens. Can you point to your supplier?

[@helenorros3931]

「ビデオコンテンツはとても素晴らしいです、おめで

[@tonyhodgson6744]

Great video, that resistor you resoldered for backlights, can it cause other issues like the whole dash randomly going off then back on again seconds later... thanks

[@HETPEZB]

Hello, no , it is just for the backlight only

[@tonyhodgson6744]

@@HETPEZB thanks for reply, do you know what causes this problem, I don't know whether to send dash in for repair, or if it's wiring issue Thanks

[@mustaphakoriche9393]

Vert good job thanks

[@willyconfrere9326]

Slt bien la vidéo dit petite question ? Qu elle fil pour alimenter le compteur si tu à les couleurs pour le négatif et le possitif et on te voix souder au dessus du LCD cela correspond à quoi? Merci. Pour les réponse

[@gerrya4818]

the LEDs for backlight are soldered onto the board right? is it doable to de-solder and re-solder in different color leds?

[@HETPEZB]

Soldered onto the board. Definitely doable, but will take quite some time :)

[@gerrya4818]

@@HETPEZB ,any idea off hand the size of the leds?

[@HETPEZB]

Gerry A , standard size smd leds.

[@meocats]

You can do this without hot air station easily but I will give you 1 tip, don't remove the plastic LCD protecting film until the end ~~ I tried cleaning a fingerprint with contact cleaner that i was expecting to evaporate but now it left a spot on the LCD that is permanent.

[@HETPEZB]

Not sure about the ease of removal without the hot air station, since I did see dozens and dozens of those with contact pads torn off the circuit board that I needed to fix. Thanks for the tip, but the video shows that I remove the protective tape just before the front cover installation :)

[@wonkybomb1865]

These model year TT's have a criminal amount of chronic issues that Audi refused to take responsibility for they ought to be ashamed of themselves leaving poor people like us to buy these cars just to find out they are money pits full of issues. It's thanks to people like Pixel Repair and others that we get any financial reprieve by not having to pay Audi or buy genuine Audi parts for these repairs.

[@spotcastr4473]

Audi TT MK1 info display replacement was an Audi recall I had done as a second owner in 2009.

[@spotcastr4473]

10 years later, it's gone bad again.

[@312maxon]

Wonderful video! I'll be ordering my LCD from you. You've solved another problem too... I am also suffering from intermittent pointer illumination on the temp and fuel gauges, looks like the resistor you mention may be the culprit. One question: Are you aware of a common problem / fix that causes a wildly optimistic fuel gauge reading? (aside from the needle being installed in the wrong position?) My fuel needle is buried for ~150 miles of driving, and I've actually run out of fuel with more than 1/4 tank showing. Think it's just a mis-installed needle? Eric

[@HETPEZB]

In regards to the fuel gauge - if this pattern is more or less constant - you need to replace the pointer motor. If you will reuse the old motor and calibrate the needle appropriately - it will jump to the wrong spot again very shortly. Common problem with those clusters. We have the replacement pointer motors in stock.

[@diegohilton1]

I have a 2004 audi tt, how do I know my cluster is a JAEGER?

[@HETPEZB]

It is :)

[@arnoldshopolov5441]

Jagger its with white backdoor

[@nigelswift8773]

Can you send anywhere for repairs

[@georgemcm9027]

I've now decided to pay someone😂😂😂

[@seancashin3210]

Can I just send my cluster to you on my 2003 TT? Where are you and what do you charge?

[@HETPEZB]

See the links in the description.

[@seancashin3210]

@@HETPEZB I did not see my model in the description. Mine is a 2003 TT convertible. Can you fix that?

[@HETPEZB]

Yes, first link in the description.

[@jules13692]

Hi, if you have an APX then the fuel gauge is more complicated: it needs to be alligned at the exact fuel measurement at the moment of installation. So it's better to have a full tank, alling it at maximum with the cluster powered on. At least this is what worked for me. The way it's described in the video did not work. Also, the European temperature gauge, with the cluster powered on, allign it at 50C which is the first lign. After this it's best to check with VCDS in Instruments section, Output tests.

[@HETPEZB]

I can see how in France (at the factory where those clusters were built) they connect the cluster to the car with a full tank of fuel to make sure the pointer is properly calibrated. When the cluster is not connected to the car when the power is on the pointers are rested on the empty fuel tank position and cold coolant accordingly. Regardless of what the engine is. To make it more simple - put the pointers to the same positions you took them out from (assuming there were no problem with the gauges to begin with).

[@90nadz]

Hi Are you based in UK? If so I'd like to mail you mine to have it fixed, how much is the charge? Thanks

[@HETPEZB]

Sorry, we are in the US.

[@anthonynewcome128]

totaltronics at rugby is what you want,

[@rickoneill7965]

What temperature setting are you using for your soldering pencil? I have a variable temp Hakko system. Thanks in advance.

[@HETPEZB]

It’s 600F if I’m not mistaken.

[@rickoneill7965]

Thank you. I use a bit less than that on most of my electronic circuit board repairs. So I should be safe. Thanks for the info. I see this LCD screen (part) listed anywhere on eBay from around $16 - $30. Are these parts all the same. I'm sure Audi no longer makes them so there must be a few different manufacturers. I even saw one that is monochrome. Any advice? I have seen none manufactured in the USA and pretty much all in china.

[@HETPEZB]

Most of the displays for sale looks very similar, however the picture quality vary drastically. We have 2 kinds of the displays (cheap and more expensive), that looks nearly identical, however they provide very different picture in terms of the brightness and contrast.

[@zaftra]

Why not just reseat the resistor, do the pixels get burnt or something.

[@HETPEZB]

What exact resistor on the board are you talking about?

[@zaftra]

14:23 The one you say is the culprit for the backlight issues. The subtitles says whole culprit, not sure if you don't say co culprit; why not just change that.

[@DidierBan]

Who can do this for me , I got sausage fingers 😢 , my daughter said they look like shrek fingers 😂 . Well I’m no good with small and detail repairs ; to many years working with engines and oils .

[@dennisfreeman9437]

I wanted to know how much you want to do it I will have to buy another one if I try to do it

[@HETPEZB]

We do charge $160 for the parts and labor. www.bestpixelrepair.com/pixel-repair-service/33-audi-a4-a6-tt-jaeger-cluster-dead-pixel-repair-service.html

[@ImproV2314]

How long does it take to be returned to me? I am from Texas

[@moncier77]

H CC I’m in Texas also and was wondering the same thing

[@shredtilyurdead]

If I get a new or 2nd hand gauge cluster for my TT is it just plug and play? Im not that handy with a soldering iron and dont have a heatgun.

[@HETPEZB]

No, it is not. Programming will be required. Most likely your TT won’t even start with a donor cluster installed if it’s not programmed.

[@zaftra]

I got a second hand cluster for a B5; change the milage to EXACTLY the same as the old one and it worked fine. I have heard some can trigger the imobaliser though.

[@romaintan]

Very great video. Please. Where can we find the flux syringe that help the solder melt ? Thank you

[@HETPEZB]

Ryo Tan, for example on Amazon - amzn.to/2z0npfE

[@romaintan]

Thanks a lot

[@HETPEZB]

Ryo Tan , or this one amzn.to/2lJdilR

[@dennisfreeman9437]

I need the same one done how much

[@HETPEZB]

Dennis Freeman , the information is in the description below the video

[@glastonbeary9233]

I had a go at.this and now car wont start. Any advice? If.i send you the cluster can it be fixed and maybe immobiliser deleted. I think thats the problem.

[@HETPEZB]

May be the keys were in the ignition when the cluster was removed or installed or may be the car was attempted to be started without a cluster. Sorry, we don’t do programming of this stuff.

[@MH-fb5kr]

just send it to a specialist… had mine back in 5 days… no problems

[@rocalegi9840]

HI, the big LCD and the little LCD under the RPM you barely can see where symbols, I think the pixels are really bad, anyway are you here in the states?

[@HETPEZB]

rocalegi, the small LCDs are usually never goes bad. It may be a problem with a rubber conductor or the display driver chip. Do you have a picture? We are in US.

[@rocalegi9840]

@@HETPEZB I will take a picture and send it to you, I love in Ohio what state do you live

[@HETPEZB]

We are in Illinois.

[@matthewcandelaria8588]

Just put a sticker over it lol

[@mannypoblete1098]

Hello. I lost all my cluster digital display, but still everything still working. Is there still a fix there?

[@HETPEZB]

How did it happen?

[@israelr3601]

¿How can i contact you? i would like to buy a LCD. im in mexico

[@omarvergaracalderon1013]

Ali xpress

[@jonini5598]

After I replaced the LCD, the screen display really recovered. But only "speedometer" will not work! "Temperature" "oil quantity" and engine speed can be operated. "ABS" lights up after the engine is started. What is the problem?

[@HETPEZB]

I guess no one can tell without a diagnostic.

[@romaintan]

Hi. I have the same problem. I had change the LCD screen successfuly (thanks to @best pixel repair) with no fault lights. All the gauges work except the speedometer. I don't know why. The speedometer used to work just before the repair i made.

[@aw11roman]

Ok, so after seeing how involved this repair is, I've abandoned my ideas of DIY and think I'm happy to live with my missing pixels instead :( very thorough and comprehensive video though! thank you!

[@FrankieM1974]

aw11roman Exactly what I thought after watching the first 5 minutes. DIY???

[@aw11roman]

FrankieM1974 I've got my hands full with enough other projects to fix Audi design flaws. Everything from fixing the issue of the "Audi soft touch" plastic trim coating which is starting to peel on a whole bunch of panels, retrofitting a boot release button on the actual tailgate (using the key button is ultra annoying), to polishing the faded headlights/tail lights, to retrofitting a 7 inch tablet in the dash, etc etc. Plenty of DIY projects to get stuck into without attempting this cluster issue fix, possibly breaking a bunch of things in the process and creating even more problems...at least for now anyway! (Although I've discovered that hot air stations aren't all that expensive to buy off eBay), so it's still a possibility later on down the track if the display keeps losing more pixels..

[@eligijuspranskunas3509]

It's not repair video, it's replacement video!

[@HETPEZB]

Go somewhere else then, lol :)

[@eligijuspranskunas3509]

@@HETPEZB change video label

[@HETPEZB]

Why?

[@johnpm1605]

@@eligijuspranskunas3509 it's an instrument cluster repair video, what is your problem? Are you woke?

[@peterveldhuis7770]

Audi A 4 instrumentenpaneel

[@HETPEZB]

Audi TT.

[@pasimuno1]

So it’s lcd replacement NOT A REPAIR.

[@anthonynewcome128]

ditch that annoying tune in the background

[@bread8857]

think I'd rather pay to have it done lmao I'd fuck something up

[@nizamavanvalkenburgh631]

Can you please let me know where I can send this and a phone number

[@HETPEZB]

Hi, see our website for all the details- bestpixelrepair.com

[@nizamavanvalkenburgh631]

Best Pixel Repair I did but is say the website is not secure for payment

[@HETPEZB]

once you click login it changes from unsecure to secure. Also you can find address and phone number without login and providing sensitive information