Autoharps: Side By Side Comparison of New Vs Vintage Oscar Schmidt

[@prosti-noot]

Wow!!! What a difference! I have a newer model that I got maybe 3 years ago now, I'm really missing out. The vintage is so much more "full" sounding.

[@claudiagregory5663]

I'm thankful I found my vintage EBH/R!! I converted it to a 21 chord and it's amazing!! When I first started learning to play the auto harp, my teacher wanted to trade me her new Oscar Schmidt for my vintage Oscar Schmidt. I'm so glad I made the right decision and kept mine. It cost me $65 on eBay 4 years ago! One of the best decisions I ever made!! 🎶🎶🎶

[@lindamorgan2678]

What a teacher

[@madelynb96]

Great comparison video. Too bad that so many will purchase without understanding these differences. I come from a long line of professional musicians, and my Dad's words ring in my ears any time I'm evaluating an instrument for potential purchase, and they were "SOUND IS KING". Aesthetics are nice, but if the sound isn't there, your money is wasted. Playability (ease of playing) and proper setup comes in at a close second. Love all of your videos, Hal.

[@Gratefulman1965]

In my 4th grade class my teacher (Ms. Gidley) had an old Autoharp. I do not recall the brand but I was drawn to it like moth to flame. It was my true beginning to playing music. I’m 59 now and my obsession for music rages on. I just found an old 15 chord 1950’s Silvertone Oscar Schmidt on reverb that is going straight to my studio! Thanks for your great Video.

[@h.wagner]

Great demo Hal. You show the difference between 2 dimensional sound, 3 dimensional sound and Vista Vision sound. Having owned all 3 types, side by side, I can attest to the differences.

[@wildautoharp]

Lol...and you have that Carbon Fiber dAigle...what kinda sound do you call THAT?

[@h.wagner]

@@wildautoharp I call THAT one a profound Pangalactic playing experience. It also led to one of my dearest autoharp memories. At MLAG 2019, at breakfast at Bitting's Cafe, I played the Carbon Fiber harp in duet with Paul Ranney playing his fully restored 1893 instrument in "When You and I Were Young Maggie". The oldest playable autoharp (that we knew of) with one of the most modern designs available.

[@flavedereus4928]

Yes, the sound is pretty much different. I've had three autoharps so far: My first was a brand new 21 Chord Oscar Schmidt OS73 1930 Reissue Autoharp, ordered from the USA to Germany (there are no longer mass produced autoharps made in Germany, and most people don't know this instrument nowadays) but not American made. Then I bought a more than 100 year old German 6 chord little diatonic autoharp. Wow, the sound is gigantic. Sure, since it's diatonic there are less strings muted, so less harsh percussion sound is being produced, but it also has so much more volume and real bass! Finally I bought an almost unused Japanese made 15 Chord Tokai Gakki Chromaharp which was the cause for selling the Oscar Schmidt. It doesn't sound as good as the old German diatonic, but it definately sounds better than the Oscar Schmidt. Only downside is the bigger difficulty in rearranging the chord bars and chord buttons. Oh, and I remember being very annoyed by the fact that the new autoharps can't be played on a table or lap decently due to the lack of space beneath the chord bars, but it no longer bothers me much.

[@Paganheart22]

Huge difference thank you

[@hmbl-cb1be]

Hi Hal, the first, oldest sounds the best!. Cynthia

[@clememp]

Thank you so much for this video.

[@aaronflinner6431]

I have a 1970s B model. It sounds wonderful in spite of the soundboard being cracked and sunken under the buttons.

[@brendal6951]

Such pretty music!

[@autumnvalley]

Quite a difference!

[@micheleharvey7168]

How do I find out how old my autoharp is?

[@tomfisher8201]

Hello, I have an OS 21 chord autoharp and am looking for chord buttons to replace the worn ones. Ideally I would like to find some buttons with the chord name printed on the side of the button. Can you link me to a site? Thanks for spreading the autoharp sound and experience. Tom

[@wildautoharp]

d'Aigle Autoharps (autoharp.com) has buttons, but they are printed on the top. We also have side stickers that you can add to the side of each button. If you can't find them on the website, you should call and talk to Keith or Pete.

[@tomfisher8201]

@@wildautoharp - Thank you for the quick response Hal, I am a subscriber to your channel so I am perusing your productions. Just a little info for you. I am 70, retired pilot, played a 12 string guitar most of my adult life but damaged my left wrist to the point I could not play any guitar again due to loss of fine finger coordination. I had to play something and that is when I looked to the autoharp to satisfy my need. I now own 2 and serenade my wife to sleep every night as well as play with the ukulele group she started. I do not need the buttons themselves but would like to purchase the side stickers from you if possible. Cheers. Tom Fisher

[@hmbl-cb1be]

Hal I have a question. What about the old black autoharps by Oscar Schmidt that are all wood. I strumed one in a music shop and it was cracked so I didn't get it. I am looking at those still because of the wonderful sound I heard then. What do you think of those???? Cynthia

[@adriennestark5198]

Sucha difference!

[@lindaberg1695]

Thank you so much for the helpful comment!! :)

[@paulroark1046]

I have two auto harps. I want to know strings are available and felts for the keys?

[@brownmullins]

I love the lower, deeper sound; mine is 1979 and 1.5" thick. It needs refurbishing for me to play it. I lived in the mountains and they cut trees way too early. The wood is just not good anymore. I much prefer the older model.

[@JeanieTaylor-v1e]

Any left handed sitoharps

[@wildautoharp]

Best way is to post a photo in the Facebook "autoharp" group and ask if anyone can tell. There are telltale signs when looking, but too many to list here. It won't be exact, but I bet we can tell within a decade.

[@tigresen5660]

I recently got into Autoharps and bought a vintage B model unknowing of this sound difference. And I almost didn’t because it only has 15 chord bars. The sound is incredibly different! Do you have any advice for if I were to try to convert it from 15 to 21 chord?

[@wildautoharp]

I'm starting to believe there's not that much reason to convert to 21 bar. Only 3 keys (F,C and G have real good bass in a standard chromatic tuning. D is just okay). That means that you spend a lot of money for not that much more convenience. HOWEVER, most would disagree with me....so if you DO get an Oscar Schmidt conversion kit, follow the instructions VERY carefully...or better, get the directions from the daigle website: www.daigleharp.com/Images/Help%20Files/installing21barconversionkit.pdf Follow these exactly with an Oscar coversion kit, and it'll all come out good. THen you have to silence the action, lower the action, get lighter springs, in short do a lot MORE work to get them to play nice. Buncha work. It's rewarding though if you do it carefully.

[@tigresen5660]

@@wildautoharp sounds like lots of work lol. Might just keep an eye out for an eBay listing for a second harp instead and leave my harp as it is

[@flavedereus4928]

@@tigresen5660 If the 15 chords are rearranged, they should be totally sufficient. This is my configuration: First row only major chords: Eb, Bb, F, C, G(7), D(7), A(7), E(7). The sevenths are only audible when the highest register is used, else they sound as regular G, D, A and E. Second row : the parallel minor chords: Cm, Gm, Dm, Am, Em, Bm, F#m. In fact I want to get rid of at least three chord bars, so that the Autoharp can be played on the table like other zithers without placing it upside down or use shwiching or even crossing hands. Even with only 9 chords you'd still be able to accompany any song and you'd still have the option to change the key if needed in order to better ft your voice.

[@tigresen5660]

@@flavedereus4928 I couldn’t find any affordable chord bar kits when I looked and didn’t feel like felting them. I’ve since bought an OS21CE, still missing a B minor though which kinda sucks.

[@madelynb96]

U.S. made OS 'harps of a certain vintage are worth the work/cost of conversion to 21 chord IF you want a good-sounding, playable chromatic which will stand you in good stead in any jam group. Otherwise, I'd recommend converting yours to a single or two-key diatonic. How sweet it will sound as a diatonic! Then find yourself another vintage model and have it converted to one or two different keys than your first one. You will love the sound.

[@sweetsuccess2019]

Would someone be so kind and help me figure out what I have? The enclosed literature says Oscar Schmidt and is dated 1967. The enclosed price list for accessories states "Prices Effective 3/15/69". Problem is I can't find another like mine that is Oscar Schmidt. Some are described as "Hopf Family" but there is nothing in the case about the Hopf Family, only Oscar Schmidt. Mine is black lacquer with a red rose on it but no other markings. Enclosed owners manual says "BH" series but the description of rounded corners doesn't fit. I'm stumped. There is also a small gold sticker attached to the carry case inside which reads "Made in Germany" on the first line, "USSR Occupied" below that.

[@wildautoharp]

Google hope Rosen zither. It's a german brand. Someone must have put it in a case that used to house an Oscar Schmidt autoharp. That's what the printed materials went with.

[@wildautoharp]

*hopf Rosen not hope

[@sweetsuccess2019]

@@wildautoharp Thank you!

[@masterartist8288]

I’ve got one of the centurion models. I want to sell. What’s the value on this model?

[@angelaakers7692]

Do you sell strings? I am in need of them badly Oscar Schmidt type A please help

[@wildautoharp]

www.autoharp.com has all that.

[@lindaberg1695]

Very informative Hal, thanks!! I have a 21C OS Chromatic that (supposedly) is a vintage B model. The thing is, my C chord bass notes sound uncomfortably close to the newer model you demonstrated. I'm not sure if it's a felting problem (on checking the C chord felts I've discovered the bass 'G' string and the next 'G' string down from that one are not notched out properly & dampen the bass G notes..... I'm assuming that once I re-felt (or just widen those notches), the C Chord bass notes will sound better. Or am I just indulging in wishful thinking? My 'harp' doesn't look as brand spanking new as the one you showed us, but it certainly isn't beaten up either. I purchased it as pre-owned....My question is do you think re-felting or re-notching will help? Another question: Is there anything that can be done to make the newer ones sound better on those bass notes? I find I'm playing mostly in the key of F (using C7 rather than C) because the C chords just don't do much, playing in C or G.....Thanks so much!

[@wildautoharp]

The G2 and C3 should BOTH be cut out on your C chord. In the old days, lots of people said you shouldn't have two bass notes cut out next to each other, but in this case it's usually OK. That will probably help.

[@lindaberg1695]

@@wildautoharp Thank you so very much! I will do that! Just as an 'aside' I checked the label inside the 'harp and there is a serial number that I can research to check for age. Also, the label has the dates 1879 in the top left corner of the label and 1979 in the top right corner. I hope that indicates that this harp was made in '79. There is not a 'Made in USA' on the label however....Anyhow, many thanks for the suggestion and big hello from Vancouver BC. :)

[@h.wagner]

@@lindaberg1695 Unfortunately, they used that 1879 - 1979 label for a number of years, making dating the instruments that much harder.

[@wildautoharp]

but its not made in US unless it sez so.

[@lindaberg1695]

@@wildautoharp That's what I thought, thanks so much again!

[@bobbo1946]

i love my '62 A

[@johnirby493]

IMO The first was, by far, the best.

[@marianner.1340]

So, if you can't the Centurion, go for the vintage autoharp. I would expect the Centurion would be good all the way around but the 70's era has a nice full tone. If you were to buy a vintage autoharp missing a few strings, would you restring the entire harp or replace the missing ones?

[@wildautoharp]

I'd restring the whole thing; and probably refelt too, but that depends on the condition of the felt. But all that comes from me, who is so used to restringing that it's not a big job. Restringing takes practice...and doing a whole harp is a great way to get that practice! Look at the felts on the C, G, G7, F and D bars...those are almost always the most worn. If there are CUTS in them with straight walls (not deep, neccssarily) they need to be changed. A lot of people bought harps and then didn't end up playing them much. Another thing that happens is the felts start dropping or coming loose from their glue...those need changing too. So much WORK to get a good sounding viable 'harp to start playing on....but if you don't do it, then the harp is hard to play and doesn't sound as good, and you won't feel like picking it up next time. It's WORTH the WORKOUT of getting it running good!

[@brandynlemaster4781]

So I found one of these at my grandmas house.

[@JeanieTaylor-v1e]

Left handed auto harps

[@Xjsjsndoenfneo]

Sá y up