🍂 Autumn Sewing Tutorial 🍂 Making a cozy wool layering dress

Trying out lots of fun Victorian sewing methods on a Vintage style dress! A block pattern, a Victorian fan skirt pattern, a Victorian pocket, Victorian lining and facings, all adapted into a modernized jumper dress, my new woolen winter layering essential 😊
LINKS
Bernadette's walking skirt: • Making an 1895 Walking...
Bernadette's waistcoat: • Drafting and Making a ...
Bernadette's ballgown (talked about pockets): • I Made an 1890s Ball G...
TheClosetHistorian: • Pattern Drafting Start... (this is her playlist for making and refining a block pattern, but once you have it, most of her videos show how she uses it and changes details to recreate any pattern she wants)
TheClosetHistorian: • Making an Alexander Mc... (just my favorite video)
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
02:28 Day 1 - Patterning & Mockups
08:14 The Bodice & Skirt
12:01 The Zipper
14:55 The Finishings
19:02 Reveal
19:24 Final Thoughts
FIND ME ELSEWHERE
Patreon for patterns: / mariahpattie
Linktree: linktr.ee/mariahpattie
My second channel: / @mariahpattieworldbuil...
Instagram - / ​
MUSIC BY epidemicsound.com
1. Eternal Slumber - Yonder Dale
2. Tip - Million Eyes
3. For the Rest of Our Days - Adriel Fair
4. Barefoot Adventures - Adriel Fair
5. Knight's Templar - Adriel Fair
6. Jump Jive Roar - Jules Gaia
7. Jubilation - Jules Gaia
8. Moves Like This - Jules Gaia
9. Le Chat Noir - Lucas Pittman

[@tambriggs]

I'm so glad the Closet Historian is getting recognition - her patterning series is amazing! Great idea for a dress, I'd been wondering about those heavy backed skirts - thanks!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

The Closet Historian is a dart wizard!

[@SingingSealRiana]

what helps a lot with heavy backes skirts is wearing makeing the waistband very snug so they do not havve the room to pull down. Wearing them over corset helps a lot with allowing a very snug waistband without the discomfort of it cutting in and the weight of the skirt in general gets way better distributed, even without an adition bumpad or roll.

[@mrs.knecro7044]

I love when my KZbin channels cross over. It’s really cool to see who watches who and takes inspiration from each other!

[@liv97497]

"Bernadette's method with a few modern cut corners" is my go-to 😂 I love this, it turned out so beautiful! Coincidentally, I just finished a very similar piece a few weeks ago, and I loved seeing all the ways you styled yours. Yay for applicability haha

[@ColorwaveCraftsCo]

I love the Closet Historian! We are so lucky that she shares her knowledge and experience with those of us that have not gone to fashion school 😊

[@garrettrobinson3826]

I think that maybe my favorite thing about your channel is that you're coming at this from a fairly rural perspective. It's really nice to see my own experiences reflected, like the whole "everyone has a relative who does woodworking" thing.

[@practicallymedieval2027]

I feel like The Closet Historians channel is criminally underrated. Love the jumper. I wear long skirts and have been trying to over come my hesitancy to make a fan tail, its just so much fabric.

[@MariahPattie]

Mine wasn't too much. The jumper fit into 2 yards and I had pretty large chunks leftover. But I did shorten the floor-length pattern by several inches, and narrow in the fan to fit across my fabric.

[@sew_so]

I made a full length fan tail out of 2 1/4 metres, with a few piecings on the larger pieces, so it's definitely possible! Although I did have to shorten the pattern by 7 inches as I am incredibly short, so maybe that would account for the lack of fabric used?

[@practicallymedieval2027]

@@sew_so I was going to use a commercial pattern I bought and adjust that back pleat to whatever fabric I have. I am both tall (5'9) and have high waist with long legs (I'm not exactly skinny right now either) and cutting my precious wool is scary if it doesn't work out.

[@MariahPattie]

in cases like that, my solution is not a mockup, but a prototype. Something out of a cheaper fabric, but wearable. Mockups never really give me a good idea of how the final garment is going to look.

[@AliciaB.]

That subtle Ryan George reference had me pleasantly surprised ☺

[@wynnewhitten-holmes5090]

My pocket anxiety stems from the knowledge that I am always picking up too many pretty rocks and one day it will be too much for my flimsy modern pockets.

[@saracyclesandsews]

Yes Laura Ingalls pocket disaster reference! That little drawing of Laura in TEARS and her mom saying, Calm yourself my daughter, I can fix it! ❤️❤️❤️ Why this imprinted on my memory, I do not know. But it did.

[@jennieeveleighlamond]

Let me just say that the video cuts sewing under the machine in time to the music completely made my day.

[@jackiejames4551]

The jumper dress is beautiful. I like how you had listed "liberating the chickens" as your first chore to do. It gave me a laugh. They have grown so much this year.

[@katherinemclean1448]

I love when youtubers I love refrence each other. "pitch meetings" is infinitly quotable and it tickles me when I hear someone else dropping their quotes around. Hehehe

[@habituscraeftig]

Also, those bangs are giving me Keira Knightley as Lizzy Bennet vibes, in the best way possible. Unfathomably adorable.

[@grammykcutter6374]

I ;have learned so much from the Closet Historian. I also find that Lifting Pins and Needles has a lot of good fitting information. I follow both as well as you.

[@MzClementine]

Wow I can't believe you don't like your hips in that skirt I think it looks beautiful. It's amazing how we see ourselves. And others see ourselves differently. I thought it was a beautiful silhouette.

[@bohemiansusan2897]

Was nice to watch how you do things. TCH is a very seriously underrated vloger. I'd have finished all seams even if inside and covered by the lining because good ole Murphy loves to play my existence.

[@fiesehexe8133]

It was super easy, barely an inconvenience. So you did a backflip and changed the waistline, saving the day as you went Ryan George fans unite!

[@Emmajen]

This dress looks so good. The fit is *chef's kiss*. I want to make it in corduroy!

[@MariahPattie]

corduroy would be perfect!

[@KatieRoseHere]

It would look so good in corduroy!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Gorgeous result! Also, that hem chalk tool!! Whattt!?!

[@ColorJoyLynnH]

My mother learned to iron with a removable-handle symmetrical iron like your pattern weights. She became the Ironing Champion of Minnesota, 1951. Yes, really.

[@lauryn596]

I've been trying to find a channel like yours for YEARS. The KZbin algo has done me dirty. Lovely video!!!

[@danhurl1349]

Super easy, barely an inconvenience

[@adamreynolds9816]

The Closest Historian is one of my favourite channels! I have learned so much.

[@Asumae]

I have learned SO much from theclosethistorian. I support her on patreon because shes changed my self drafting game. I KNOW that feeling of "i could have cut this piece better" feeling but still loving it and wearing it. Its the sewing journey. Love your videos!

[@alphie333]

Holy cow that Laura moment has lived rent free in my head ever since I read it too! Love the result!

[@wiktoriagrochowiecka8930]

"Liberate the chickens" I'm ten seconds in and I love this already

[@sharonhogan935]

I'm glade you put your personal comments about how you feel after making this garment. I love it and will try and make one myself.

[@kellyrose3905]

I would recommend a nice quality rayon lining rather than silk or poly. Rayon is a synthetic, technically, but it's made from cellulose, which is what cotton and linen are made of, and it breathes very nicely. Modern rayons also wash well, though that's not so much an issue with a wool skirt. You can also get nice quality cotton sateen or lawn that are smooth enough to play well with tights, but they're usually so expensive that you might as well go with silk. (Edited to add) I would also recommend getting comfortable with regular zippers; the railroad insertion is fast and easy, and a regular zipper will stand up to wear much better, especially with thick fabrics like this wool. I never use invisible zips anymore because they break too often. (/end edit) I really like your jumper, and I think making the fan skirt into a jumper to fix the waist dragging is very clever!

[@elvan9747]

I love The Closet Historian! Bianca's videos were such a game changer for me in terms of making clothes that actually fit me properly. This Is Kacchi (I definitely spelt that wrong) also has some really good videos on how to draft your own patterns, but I just used hers for pants since TCH already had me covered for everything else I wanted.

[@beverleychong11820]

Looks lovely,I want to make my own version now. The Closet Historian is amazing, I always use her as my go-to channel for pattern drafting etc but she also makes beautiful clothes and costumes.

[@martamoreira6326]

I did pattern making in fashion school and one detail that i love is shoulder darts and pretty everyone on the internet doesn't like then that much 😅 It's a such a nice detail and not a lot of people use it now a days 🤗

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I wonder if it's a body shape preference thing? I've got really narrow shoulders and a relatively wide bust and once I get a functional bodice block that's not princess seamed, I want to play with darts and see what works best on my "brick with boobs" figure. My initial explorations suggest that I definitely don't work well with a waist dart, since I don't have a lot of difference between my waist measurement and my underbust measurement.

[@martamoreira6326]

@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 yeah, it could be that! I was taught the french drafting method and usually what we learn with the shoulder darts is to rotate it somewhere else 😂 But is still so pretty and very tailor-like in my opinion 😊

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@martamoreira6326 Haha, I didn't even know it was a thing till I saw The ClosetHistorian and her dart wizardry, I've got a couple of medieval-style gore-and-rectangle dressses that fit so much better if pinch out a fold in the neckline and safety pin it!!

[@LonelyDistance]

You know you're in for a good video when it starts with "liberate the chickens"!

[@brandielee7971]

I appreciate you content, because you fully understand the whole concept of wanting an aesthetic with the comforts of modernity.

[@kida4star]

I love listening to you explain your whole process, including the bits that didn’t work the way you thought! Thank you.

[@reneewallace3290]

It is so nice to hear someone else say "super easy barely an inconvenience" - Subscribed!

[@CM-xn6xc]

I love your jumper. I was amazed at The Closet Historian's block bodice magic too! It is a really helpful patterning tool. I'm glad you didn't cut your hair...at first I thought you did...

[@ellenhomeister7374]

I love your iron pattern weights. I have a treadle machine, but don’t know how to oil it. Would love a video on it. My Grandmother taught me how to sew on a treadle many decades ago.

[@cliffp.8396]

I laughed at your 'Laura Engels' reference, brought back memories of the show.

[@farmwife7944]

good job, thanks for sharing this adventure. For pressing thick areas, I glued a well sanded thick piece of wood to the base of a cast iron pressing iron, the kind you use as pattern weights, as I find this easier for me to apply pressure using the handle than using a piece of wood (clapper) alone. This multi function iron is one of my most used sewing items, along with having extra seam rippers at hand.

[@sweatpantgardener]

wooo what great shout outs! The Closet Historian is so fun and I love her aesthetic, and Bernadettes has great content and inspiration!

[@anastasiamaliuha5481]

I've heard somewhere that most commercial patterns go with a B cup, regardless of the pattern size, but in reality you can't know what cup size was used in drafting unless it's stated somewhere. LBA and SBA are lifesavers. The CoSy video from DixieDIY was an eye-opener for me. Why did you have to remind me how weak I am for plaid fabric? Your dress is so beautiful that my fingers are just itching to do something like this. And the V-neck is indeed very flattering. Well done!

[@habituscraeftig]

That is true, but cups in patternmaking also aren't the same as cups with bras, because they're measuring the difference between the bust and overbust, rather than bust and underbust. So it gets complicated.

[@habituscraeftig]

It's also not true of pre-1920s patterns, which operate on whatever proportion was fashionable, with the expectation that you would nip yourself in and fill yourself out, as needed.

[@kohakuaiko]

I read somewhere that I've long forgotten that simplicity, McCall's, and vogue use a b-cup standard while Burda uses a c-cup standard.

[@gittevandevelde2208]

@@habituscraeftig This! I am a C cup in patterndrafting (overbust 30, bust 33 ish) but I wear a 28DD or E (UK sizing) bra, as my underbust is 27 inches. However, lots of brands use the +4 method in their sizecharts (and there only, as the fit of the bras doesn't reflect it; 32 and 30 bands are consistently too big for me) so it becomes 30C-D 32B-C again. Some brabrands also use overbust, which doesn't make sense whatsoever. All very confusing and I wish more people knew the difference.

[@rachelmyers4570]

My first thought when I saw this was Lady Sherlock! So your inspirations absolutely shone through 😊

[@WayToVibe]

When Cathy Hay pointed out that her Victorian walking skirt was drooping in the back because of all the weight - then Bernadette mentioned it in one of her videos shortly after - it was enough for me to alter my own walking skift pattern to be shorter (tea length) and have far less pleating in the back. It's down to 4-ish pleats from the previous 8. The cotton is lightweight enough, I think, not to pull, but I definitely have enough fabric left over to make a small bum-roll if need be.

[@inesines9099]

I wanted to make a winter jumper dress for a while and your video really inspired me! The dress turned out so cute! I love your content. PS : the ''super easy, barely an inconvenience'' - Ryan George reference made my day 🤣

[@thinkuthink]

Was looking for this comment 😂😘 made mine too ❤️✨

[@csifan52]

This is so lovely! Also, your pattern weights are the coolest and I learn so much from your videos! Thank you!!

[@sweatpantgardener]

such a nice looking dress that's perfect for your needs and so versatile! Will be taking lots of your notes to make my own! I'm happy I don't have such a heavy suiting wool to work with, but now know I need some more fabric for lining and facings. Thank you!

[@ShakespeareDoomsday]

I love how your jumper dress turned out! You can get rayon challis fabric for fairly cheap. It’s thin, slippery and breathable so I actually prefer it over any other fabric for unstructured linings. And, as an added bonus, it’s really soft! It is really fiddly to work with, though, but I think it’s worth the effort.

[@roefane2258]

Mariah Pattie doesn’t let the chickens out she Liberates them!

[@annagubinskaya2260]

- Was it hard to plant a Ryan George quotation into a sewing video? - Actually, it was super easy, barely an inconvenience! - Wow-wow-wow. Wow.

[@Chibihugs]

This jumper is so cute. You can't go wrong with Bernadette or the CH as inspiration. Thanks for heads up about the block pattern, I have been considering getting one online.

[@MariahPattie]

yes, the bootstrap block was ok, but not accurate enough to be worth the price imo. Good luck!

[@carolinemercer9779]

Oh my goddd I have that wool sitting in my stash just waiting for the perfect project

[@paula-zzz]

seeing that you watch some of the youtubers i watch (bernadette banner and the closet historian) is so cool to me!! community like this seems to have gotten rarer and rarer and i'm glad we still have it :)

[@paula-zzz]

i'm so glad i found your channel because of the production value of the videos, the unique and creative sewing projects and your way of talking about stuff... you're one of my comfort youtubers and i'm happy everytime i get a notification from you!

[@habituscraeftig]

When I was in fashion school, we were taught to mark the actual apex when the mockup was on our bodies (after adjustments). It's a little easier than math-ing it.

[@heliumowl1840]

See this invisible zipper installation makes so much more sense. I tried to be clever and got very confused about sandwiching of the lining and outer fabric with the zipper. So agreed basting is a must

[@aquaaurora2747]

I love your use of the antique irons as pattern weights. That pattern has no chance of shifting!

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

I have found that for my historically inspired sewing, learning modern sewing methods has been invaluable. Victorian tailoring techniques aren't suitable for my victorian-esque clothing lol. And the Closet Historian is bomb!

[@elanorwoodhams7811]

My solution to bulk in pockets attached to the waist has been to cut out the corner, you still get some bulk in the waistband, but generally the main problem is all the seam allowances at the top of the side seam, which it solves

[@DamesalaMode]

This was such a fantastic video! I am kinda blow away by the double dart technique (my modern sewing knowledge is basically nothing) and this video totally made something like this feel do-able! Thank you!

[@elizharber3564]

The Closet Historian! Such a good channel!

[@missimperfectlyfine7]

perfect timing, I was just cutting out a pattern for a beth harmon-style layering dress!! :)

[@MariahPattie]

ooh yes, her dress with the deep v-neck and the wrapped front is also on my list

[@rachelunderwood4868]

Love the dress, love the hair, love the chickens… all round love.

[@janfranklin2114]

Beautiful sew, the hand sewing may have slowed you down but in the end made the difference in my opinion.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

It’s lovely!! I really loved the idea of the original front but I understand why you changed it. I would have too!

[@crazyjedi338]

Oh my gosh, your hair is SO CUTE like that!

[@MsAngieNightmare]

Yay! I'm in the process of fitting a basic block inspired by the Closet Historian and it's great to have company.

[@susieahn6594]

I really loved this piece! The jumper style and color are so versatile, especially with the red jacket. I enjoyed seeing your applications of other KZbinrs' work. If the opportunity arises, could you do a video on alterations? I learned so much from seeing and explaining how you made adjustments to the waistline. Thank you!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I made a coat (based on Sewstine's Kefta pattern from Mood) with a knitted wool blend lined with flannel (interlined with cotton twill Ikea curtain and pure woven wool salvaged from a horse blanket) and though I am now am convinced I have a fitting princess seam bodice block (mwahahaaha, I am invincible!!!), I left the lining separate from the outer at the bottom in case I want to change anything and was having the same problem, even though they were cut the same size (actually I'm pretty sure I cut the flannel an inch shorter), I hemmed the wool by folding it over half an inch, and I took as much as two inches up out of the flannel to make sure it's not seen from the outside... I also topstitched everything as the the outer coating was really thick and would have hid my stitches even if my thread hadn't been close to matching... and the lining keeps bagging out the front so I'm doing some decorative stitching to hold it in place (think using chain stitch embroidery as a cross between quilting and pad stitching?). I love your pinafore idea and am thinking of making something like that out of some plaid "100% unknown fibres" that smelled a lot like burning wool when I did a burn test. Too bad the V bodice didn't work, I love that shape because it hides a multitude of bodily irregularities. I need to go look at how they made my wedding dress, it got it right!

[@KerryBethAnneMarie]

When it comes to lining wool and wool-like skirts and dresses, I like to use polyester curtains or yardage from the thrift store. Then I don't have to worry about it catching on my tights and I can feel good about giving a second life to some unfortunate polyester.

[@PoisonTheOgres]

Yes! Thrift shops almost always have something you can use. Last week I actually just happened to find a whole bolt of anti-static lining fabric 😂

[@darcie8560]

Your hair looks so lovely in this video! Also super obsessed with this jumper

[@jacquelinelarden6481]

Omg you too have that anxiety!!! I am so glad I am not the only one!!!!

[@sorryipanicked3849]

This looks amazing, and super comfortable! I'm also loving the hair style.

[@anaisabelsantos4661]

Before you cut off that v-shapped waistline I was thinking that buttons to pretend it was a vest would make it perfect. But it is your dress and looks great this way too 🤩. As it was so easy to make it better for you great. Now I want to see Ryan George sewing (figure out why🙄).

[@betsycomputer]

Thankyou, for this tutorial about making a pattern and tailoring! You did an amazing job!

[@ginalou5774]

I missed this one! Your hair is great

[@sarahannekerley8681]

Your fringe looks amazing!

[@UnderOrange]

Aah this turned out so cute! It's such a joy seeing you fall in love with block patterning too, since I've been obsessed with it for ages lol. Bianca's channel is just so good, too. Thanks for sharing! You've gotten me all fired up to sew. 😄

[@cap4life1]

Great series and lovely dress!

[@gloriac.266]

love the wool! you can also use bemberg rayon (or a similar silky rayon) as a lining!

[@brookrose3023]

The bangs are soo cute! And the dress, of course, but they are very cute!

[@crazylanea]

Adorable!

[@chantelmcskimming6633]

Great!!! Loved it ❤️ you are fun to watch 😊

[@gigiw.7650]

It looks so comfortable! 😻

[@heatherbretsch8438]

Love this dress!!

[@jacquelinelarden6481]

Loving this dress looks amazing!!!!!

[@coreygilles847]

Such an awesome dress!

[@leisongivangomo5656]

That jumper looks great!

[@laurenloertscher1319]

OOooooOOooo yes I love this. I have some heavy wool as well, and I was thinking about doing something similar

[@HeraldHealer]

Gorgeous jumper, it looks so lovely and warm. Your new hairdo looks good too.

[@teddybearbones]

I'm dying at the first section's editing reference to Bernadette's videos

[@MariahPattie]

but with 🐓

[@magesalmanac6424]

I love your new hairstyle!!

[@trudicole3520]

The dress looks terrific i think I will do something like that for myself thank you

[@doingthearts]

Your new haircut is absolutely beautiful!!

[@robyn3349]

Very nice!

[@cdeg1964]

Thank you. I am still working on my bodice block but you are right about how folks who have been to fashion school understand that and the rest of us muddle for a good while before we get there. I think making this a dress is a great idea. I am curious if you might could keep it in 2 peices with hook and eye attachments.

[@Midlife_Manical_Mayhem]

enjoyed your breakdown on the making and your thoughts. i'm glad you addressed the breast dart issue. i couldn't place why the bust just didn't seem to fit you right.

[@speisplanet]

Maybe you'll find the videos of Alisa from Thoughtfull Creativity helpful to create a block pattern. She makes it look so easy. Thank you for all your great video's! Greetings from The Netherlands! ♥️🌺♥️

[@TsukiNohime16]

Not me sitting here hand stitching a fleece petticoat because I don’t own a sewing machine, all while watching sewing videos… 😅

[@avivagodfrey]

Correction: rayon was the original silk dupe, so if you look for rayon you can get cheap, silky fabric. ovo

[@IJUSTNEEDASTUPIDUSERNAME]

Bangs?! You look awesome!! Btw, you can totally sew an invisible zip on a vintage machine. I do it with a regular presser foot. Just need to iron open the teeth and watch where you stitch. But it’s definitely more nerve wracking.

[@MariahPattie]

interesting. might have to try it out :)