AWR Racing Ford Explorer ST Differential Mount Install

Ford Explorer ST Differential Mount by AWR Racing
Caution: The vehicle components may be hot to the touch if you recently drove the car. It is recommended to allow components to cool off before attempting this installation.
Tools Needed: 13mm 12 point box wrench, 14 mm socket, 3/4" socket and box wrench, rubber mallet, alignment punch.
Remove the bottom bolt to the right of the drain plug on the differential cover as well as the differential cover bolt that is on the right side at the 3 o’clock position.
Begin by Installing the nut plate into the frame rail by holding the small bent tab. Insert the nut plate into the middle subframe hole with the smooth side facing down towards the ground.
Note* This tab should be hanging down and to the driver side of the vehicle out of the hole it was put through.
Thread the passenger side bolt temporarily to retain the nut plate in place.
Install frame bracket. Align the frame bracket with the left side bolt and loosely fasten the left side of the bracket.
Remove the right side bolt that retained the nut plate. Pivot the bracket into place and re-insert the bolt.
Once both bolts are connected hand tighten the bolts so the bracket can be re-positioned if necessary.
Now install the differential bracket in between the ears of the frame bracket and use the alignment tool to position the ears and the bushing.
With the alignment tool holding together the two pieces, start by inserting the upper 3 o’clock bolt to the differential.
Note* Removing and Installing the upper differential housing bolt may be tricky as the bolt is slightly longer than the area to remove it allows. Slip the bolt into the mount first and finesse the upper bolt into place. Once in place, proceed to install the lower housing bolt.
Remove the alignment tool and install the thru-bolt into the differential mount. Push the bolt in from the left side, washers included on both sides. Install the nylock nut.
Tighten both frame bolts with the 14mm socket to 40 ft lbs.
Tighten the differential housing bolts with the 13mm 12 point box wrench.
Lastly, torque the thru-bolt to 60 - 65 ft lbs.
Once mount install is completed, double check that all fasteners are tight. Take your ride out and enjoy!
More info: store.awrracin...
Music: www.bensound.com

[@2ndAmendProtector]

It appears that this and other Diff Braces really don't prevent the factory bolts from breaking. There are a few videos where the factory diff boltss sheared off during a luanch at the track and the factory bolt fell right there on the ground on the staging area. BUT, the Explorer ST ran down the track and drove back no problem. So these Diff Braces are GOOD for one thing, holding the read in place IF and WHEN the bolt(s) do shear off and you are not left stranded with a real bad broken rear diff.

[@UnderwaterHunter96]

A before and after test under hard acceleration would be amazing

[@awrracing_]

We are working on getting a video posted!

[@UnderwaterHunter96]

@@awrracing_ any update??

[@benjid5771]

I wonder myself about what happens to the integrity of the diff bolts if there is a spacing in the "bolt hole". Wont the bolt have less contact with treads making it not a strong. Ik, same time we are putting bolts in the frame and that will even things out. I just wonder if the kit should come with slightly longer diff bolts than the oem. To make up the space the brackets take up. Im no engineeer or that smart for any matter but i do wonder about this.

[@2ndAmendProtector]

Any bolt making company, like "Broward Bolt" will have an exact duplicate bolt in longer lengths. Just cut it down to your desired length.

[@benjid5771]

@@2ndAmendProtector So there would be no room to get a longer bolt in. Im not proficient in mechanics but the diff would somehow need to be dropped to get them in. I do wonder if this company has taken the spacing into consideration. Im no engineer no im not sure if it matters. If your questioning it too and havent made a decision, id probably get the fenfab. Seems like a better trade off. Because the plate of the fenfab isnt as thick as this diff brace, you could fit a longer bolt in to compensate for the amount of bolt thread contact was lost. Aka the thickness of the diff plate.

[@orlandodelapaz4295]

Where can I buy this, anybody to help?

[@rylayizsik]

I've tried several different 13mm 12point wrenches and sockets and they are all too small, do you know what the actual bolt size/head is?

[@putz173]

found this much easier to install the diff bracket side first, otherwise you have no room to work that 3 oclock bolt in... was miserable getting that in there, aftermarket exhaust (borla) was right in the way

[@awrracing_]

Yes, another way of installing this mount is to start by installing the differential side of the mount first. Remove the two bolts from the diff. Then put one bolt into the diff side of the mount that goes in the 3 o’clock position of the diff. With no other parts installed, you will be able to finesse the bolt into its prior home with just enough room to slip it into place while being installed in the mount already. At this point you can hand thread the bolt and begin threading the bottom diff bolt. Once these are installed, proceed to fit the other half of the mount into position and bolt that side to the provided nut plate. Don’t forget the thru-bolt that ties it all together and once everything is fastened torque all hardware to the correct specs!

[@ryanmcpherson2668]

Bought this thing for my 2020 ST and couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get the bolt plate in place, then stepped back to see that I do have two rear diff bolts. Not even sure this thing will help me now

[@awrracing_]

Hi Ryan, If you have a 2 bolt rear subframe, it is best to install the nut plate (tab) from the passenger side instead of the drivers side. Many 2 bolt rear subframes are running this mount for extra support. If you have any questions regarding install we would be more than happy to help!

[@2ndAmendProtector]

What does this addition actually do? Whats the benefit?

[@awrracing_]

This mount provides extra support to Explorers with both 3 and 4 bolt subframes. Feel the smoother launches, security, and additional benefits once the mount is installed!

[@2ndAmendProtector]

What about Ford seeing that on there during a service or warranty repair visit? Can they void your warranty?

[@awrracing_]

This question is best to ask your dealership. According to the Magnuson-Moss Act, a vehicle manufacturer cannot automatically cancel your warranty just because you’ve installed aftermarket car parts. That said, if your aftermarket part somehow causes or contributes to a failure in your vehicle, the dealer may be able to deny your warranty claim-as long as they can prove the connection. In these cases, the burden of proof is entirely on the dealership!

[@BrentRoberts01]

Will this fit a non ST? All the holes seem to be the exact same.

[@awrracing_]

A couple customers have installed this mount on Platinum and XLT model Explorers!

[@waferzworld]

It’s sad that you guys even had to build this…. Ford being really shiddy with that one bolt subframe

[@nickewell9349]

2-BOLT DIFF GUYS/GALS-do the diff cover mount first the 3 o’clock bolt is a pain in the azz STICK THE BOLT IN THE MOUNT FIRST ITS A PAIN HOLDING ITS UP IF YOU OFFSET THE BOLT AND BRACKET TO ABOUT THE 1 o’clock POSITION IT SHOULD FEEL STUCK BETWEEN THE COVER AND REAR SUB FRAME TAKE A SOFT BLOW HAMMER AND TAP BRACKET AND BOLT WHILE HOLDING IT THE DAMN THING JUST POPS RIGHT IN LOL WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT

[@oscarsilva3898]

Expect a noisy rear-end after the installation. No one tells you this. Beware

[@mikep0602]

How bad

[@oscarsilva3898]

@mikep0602 not too bad. You can tell more noise is present

[@oscarsilva3898]

You can tell. @@mikep0602