Bally Black Jack Pinball MPU Repair, Keeps Crashing!

[@ToddFun]

Plus, Joe and Ron, remember that display is removable and you can put it in your video frame making it a lot easier for the viewers to see that display not moving the camera so much. And remember to use the backlight whenever you’re filming because it makes the digits easier for the viewer to see the readings. and if I remember correctly, it has a magnet on it if you need to hang it on some piece of metal. Pretty versatile meter. I’m glad you like it.

[@markjackson1444]

Very enjoyable video. Another game saved through your excellent repair and diagnosis. …Who doesn’t love an early Bally? These games are definitely worth saving. You’re a true doctor of pinball machines.

[@KentDiego]

Great to see you fixing that MPU. My Bally MPUs were so unreliable that it was not worth the time to keep trying to fix them. Went with Alltek and never had a problem since.

[@TheRealLizardKing]

Great video as usual! Every time I see you bring back something like this from the dead, it gives me (an ACTUAL amateur) more confidence in being able to repair my own pin. I've been doing maintenance these past months on my JPDE and the vast majority of the stuff I learned is through your channel. I can never thank you enough!

[@LyonsArcade]

I'm glad you enjoy the videos! Keep watching they're going to be even better...

[@OhRonaldo]

Glad to see you back, live, kicking, and full throated

[@TrimeshSZ]

That weird package is called SOT-116 - it's nominally 0.4" wide. It was designed for memory chips that had dies too large to fit into a standard 0.3" wide lead frame - the next standard size was 0.6" wide, and that greatly reduced the number of chips you could get on a board, hence this funny package.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you for the information!

[@Nananea]

Great walkthrough. Thank you!

[@simondempsey1]

what a video Ron, well explained, many thanks

[@OhRonaldo]

oooOOOOooo welcome to Xenon! ❤

[@TomMannCenturia]

Very interesting, thanks. Would love an update as to whether it's still working okay.

[@SiaVids]

The type of IC socket you are looking for is a 22 pin 0.4" DIL socket.

[@waynegram8907]

JOE, What is the test equipment name for testing the switches when in Test mode?

[@angrydove4067]

Lost World, my favorite.

[@JamesUK-je4ew]

Great video, thanks. Regards

[@Jetrulez15]

Is this the way you can also diagnose a Stern MPU? I have a Lightning that has the same behavior where the LED locks on as soon as it turns on and it makes this loud humming noise, too.

[@jamesdunn8893]

I need to start going to the arcades again

[@MRNBricks]

What kid of socket do you recommend? There are a ton out there. And good job trying to fix vintage tech!!

[@LyonsArcade]

You just want to make sure it's dual wipe, which most of them are now... I try to buy NOS made in the USA ones or at least made in Japan ones because I'm sick of Chy-na. Basically the dual wipe ones grab the leg from both sides, some of the really old ones only grab the leg on one side and well you know how that goes

[@kmart0017]

The sticker on the MPU “EPA5195”, is a Paragon serial number.

[@pinba11freak]

For the next Williams System 3-4 that you repair, can you show how to program the settings using the two push buttons on the side of the MPU? I'm not finding any videos yet. I have a Phoenix that I'm working on.

[@ovalteen4404]

Is this board compatible with the Stern CPU 6 boards? I know they at least have the same blinking startup with the same sequence of checks.

[@RS-ls7mm]

Augat used to be the go to for high quality connectors. Guess it went to their head.

[@LyonsArcade]

Their other stuff might be nice but those particular sockets are horrible. They try to grab the thin side of the pins, instead of the wide side, it's kind of amazing they ever worked...

[@patrick-hein]

Do you think a Weller We 1010 is enough to work on these old boards?

[@LyonsArcade]

Absolutely. That is a great soldering iron and we use a very similar weller every day. Very nice piece of equipment.

[@patrick-hein]

@@LyonsArcade Thank you! I will try to use the affiliate link when I order the tool.

[@casstelles]

The silver solder mask on the ground planes worn away on the original board concerns me. This could mean that some traces are broken or very marginal elsewhere. A replacement board (new or used) may be a better option than chasing gremlins which may constantly pop up from these potential issues.

[@brand-x7049]

Knock on presswood. :)

[@dkd1228]

PCB designer should have specified solder mask over the interlaced nets.

[@WonkoTSane]

Not knowing what was done to the machine previously, all of the .100 connectors are highly suspect. They were only rated for 25 insertions before failure and I will guarantee you that they are all well beyond that. The pin cracks in the housing and does not make a solid connection. You can reseat them and they may work for a while and then fail again.

[@Heathcliff_hensel]

That board has a lot of miles on it.

[@lileveretteyoakumiii]

Yodelayheehoo

[@williamcooper2368]

IT'S BROKE. Rodney

[@manuelolivas7718]

Dude you’re no amateur you’re way past that.