Bambu Studio Tutorial Adding Magnets Part 1

We have reached a milestone of 500 Subs. I figured we could celebrate together with a crack at an advanced technique. I will show the basic process in this video with more info in later videos. Thank you everyone who watches, subscribes, comments and asks questions. Still getting my bearings on how the channel will go so I appreciate your continued support.
#3dprinting #bambulab #diy #tutorial #tutorials #how #howto #howtodraw #craft

[@PLr1c3r]

One thing you should also note to the viewers is that heating these magnets above 70c will ruin the magnetism so its preferable to use the cool plate and not high temp materials when integrating magnets. Also you need to reslice the model after adding a pause.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Excellent comment. Thank you.

[@marksanges9902]

Hey I just wanted to say thank you. This channel has transformed my 3d printing game completely. I've learned so much from you and I continue to pass on your wisdom to others, often citing this channel or specific videos on it when others ask questions about how to do things like this. Keep up the great work and thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the world!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Wow, thanks! While I cannot consider myself an expert I will strive to be, at a minimum, a resource. I will try to keep the videos coming.

[@im.empimp]

Late to the show, but wanted to share a quick tip. First, I really appreciate the really simple "models" that you use for these demos! The tip: when you add a part or modifier to an existing piece, the modifier's coordinates are based on the _center_ of the existing piece. In this example, that means that you don't need to "eyeball" position the magnet, you just need to set the coordinates of the negative modifier to [0, 0, 0].

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Every piece of info helps. Thank you. 😊 The centering tool has been my go to in later videos. Idk why I just didn't emphasize it in this. Lol.

[@xxkinetikxx]

This is awesome. Thank you for such a great video, straight to the point!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you very much. 😀

[@tonymarreiros3186]

Flip Ashley that's a brilliant idea. Well done and thanks for the video again.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

I figure we can all celebrate the milestone with something neat. Thank you for the continued support.

[@TheChariotdriver]

Also I’d add that if you making parts with matching magnets meaning magnets in both parts that will bond to each other be sure to know your magnets pole orientation so that they will attract and not repel. Unless you want them to repel.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Definitely a pro tip. I pre-mark all of my magnets now to know which is the attract/repel side.

[@motionsick]

Dennis: What are your hobbies? Charlie: Magnets!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

🤣

[@305doveridge]

this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@Dubble_Bubble40]

Every time I see the thumbnail for this video it reminds me of Violent J from ICP, then I was like, ope, there he is 😂

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

😁🤡😉

[@3Dprint4you]

Of course another awesome video! I am definitely going to be using this for numerous prints I am working on! THANKS!!!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

That's great to hear. Is the video easy to follow along? I am putting finishing touches on the loop/hook video should be out sometime today/

[@No0o0o0o0o0]

Freakin A that was easy to follow.

[@paulriggs42]

This is an awesome technique, thanks for sharing !

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you. 😁

[@robdotreynolds]

Thanks for a great Video, that explains everything from start to end. Big thumbs up :)

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you very much.

[@I2AT]

Excellent and thank you for making this video!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@dissidentleathermonster]

Love the ICP clip at the beginning. That gets a sub from me

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

ICP! 😁😁

[@Cleav727]

Perfect tutorial!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you very much.

[@nathanfordham920]

Pretty good my dude

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you very much for the comment. There is a bunch more to add to magnet insertion so I'll try to break up the videos into sections.

[@jorgeacosta1198]

exelente exito y salud

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Hello. It appears auto translation works now. Thank you for the kind words.

[@TWK101]

Nice, can we get a tutorial on how to design a light box out of a logo in Bambu Studio? plsnthku

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

That sounds like a fun project. I think we can do something like that. 😁

[@JayHuemann]

Thank you. Very helpful. Question please. After you right clicked and chose Pause - do you need to re-slice. I have heard that you do need to re-slice. Can you clarify please. Thanks again!

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

I think the slicer kinda forces you to "reslice" when you add the pause. But it's always goo practice to double check if the pause is set correctly. Excellent question.

[@ExtremeAerialProductions]

So is there a part 2?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

No part 2 yet. Most folks got the gist of the technique so there are a few things we can add but I wanted to make a full project that involves magnets at some point.

[@chadsedlak2204]

Another great video and very informative. I do have a question I am hoping you might be able to help with or maybe create a video for, I am struggling with creating personalized poker chips. I am probably overstepping my experience on this as I am attempting to add different text to both sides AND trying to drop in a washer for added weight. My failure percentage is probably in the upper 60% range. I have issues from not being able to read the text to the washer possibly being too large and the filament not "sticking" to it. The ones I get to work come out great. There are just so many variables that is very difficult what direction to go. I have printed many other complicated things (to me they are complicated) and have this main crazy issue with the pokerchips. Just not sure if I am expecting too much from the printer. Anyway - thank you for your channel, videos, and any additional help you can give.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

This should be doable. what are the dimensions of your washer? If there is room you may be able to give enough space for the filament to "bridge" the gap and not print directly on the washer.

[@ansiaaa]

awesome tutorial! is there going to be a part 2? are we missing anything?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

You know you are the first to ask. 😁. I was going cover placing them in existing models and different sizes, temp concerns it seems everyone got the jist of it.

[@krige]

4:50 Why did you use a glove?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Gloves are optional. That particular video I was using the cool plate so try to avoid getting any fingerprints/oils on the plate. Thank you for watching and the question.

[@snart]

wonder if you should add a drop of crazy glue so the magnet won't lift out when attracted to the nozzle.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

😬Giant "oops" on my part when I re-watched the video 5:03. lol I think there are a few options. 1. Better press/friction fit 2. Glue 3. Strong magnet(neodymium) that clings to the steel build plate more than the nozzle. 4. More clearance between the magnet and nozzle. Either way part 2 will take this into account. Thank you for the comment.

[@echo-hotel]

5:44

[@Piccyman1]

I noticed that you have TPU loaded in your AMS, does it work ok?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Good eye. general rule NEVER use tpu in the AMS, lol. That was a throw back setting I had on another project. TPU is too stretchy, squishy and occasionally you may get lucky but having to remove it when it fails is annoying.

[@TheChariotdriver]

I’m trying this technique now but not with magnets but with a part that’s also printed with pla Matte. Same material. It’s a project where I have an internal part that needs to be able to rotate inside. I placed a pause at the layer just below where it would after print on top of the part and I inserted the pla part and hit resume but once printed it bonded to the internal part preventing its ability to rotate. Any tricks in doing this? Also is there a way to remove a pause?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

During the slicing phase you should see the pauses on the right. You can removed them by right clicking and deleting them. I would leave a small gap between the inserted part and the rest of the model. (a few layers worth) Is it small enough for the printer to "bridge" the gap so the part does not fuse with the insert?

[@TheChariotdriver]

@@ashleys3dprintshop thank you. I went back to that layer and it only had the option to add pause. I’ll look again. I was not able to find it.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

@@TheChariotdriver Hmm, In the Slice tab. usually when you add a pause there is a noticeable Pause icon on the right. grey ⏸ If you left click on it, "Delete pause" should show up. Or If you bring the Green plus ➕to it you can right click and delete the pause. Either way can do it.

[@kellylarson3184]

Doesn't the Carbon X1 have a hardened steel nozzle? I've heard of people having issues with the magnet jumping out of the hole and sticking to the magnetic nozzle tip as it passes by. Seems like it's working fine for you though, have you had any trouble with this?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

That definitely happened In this video if you look carefully. There are a few solutions. Make the hole deeper before closing it off. Glueing the magnet down and give it time to set. Use a more powerful magnet. Larger/stronger magnets will be attracted to the steel build plate more than the nozzle.

[@CharlesDearingScroller]

Love your tutorials man. I have a learning disability and have trouble learning. You make it much easier. I do have a question though. Where you made a hole for the magnet, how can I make a hole in an existing file in bambu slicer...to make a container? Like a skull, remove a cylinder shape from it to make it a container. Makes sense in my head, but hard to put into words. I used the negative cylinder, moved it into place, no option to slice in order for it to remove that space (Slice Plate is greyed out). Tried delete...didn't work. What do I do? Keep up the great work.

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

Thank you very much. I am elated that I could help. I try to make videos that makes sense in how I learn. I think I under stand what you are asking. You want to take an existing model, skull and make it a container. You are on the right track about the cylinder/negative part. You would "right click" the model, add negative part, resize the negative part then move it into place. Adjust as needed. Then use the cut tool to create the top and bottom pieces. This will also move over the negative cylinder you created too.

[@CharlesDearingScroller]

@ashleys3dprintshop forgive me, but your last paragraph lost me. :/ It helps to have a visual too lol. Video idea?

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

@@CharlesDearingScroller yes. Lol. Ironically I have something cooking already that would be perfect. 😁😁👍👍

[@CharlesDearingScroller]

@ashleys3dprintshop I appreciate all ya do bud. Was so glad to find someone who specifically does all this stuff in bambu

[@ashleys3dprintshop]

@@CharlesDearingScroller I have had my bambu printer going on 14 months and it's been nothing short of fantastic. I didnt really know where this channel would go ultimately but if people are curious I'll try to make something worth watching. Thank you for sticking around.😁