@@shawnshawn8685 if you are trying print complicated images like a photo i would recommend using *Hueforge* over an SVG. Great question.

Hey hey, thank you very much.

Hello, thank you for the question. I would recommend making the parts touching the build area a few layers thicker Assuming .2mm layer height. I typically Make the bottom layers 3 (.6mm)or greater. Theoretically you can go above this at the expense of light penetration depending on your colors, transparent filament works best. So try with 5 bottom layers(or 1 mm thick) Or you can stick with 3 layers and use a simple infill but it will show in the lighted print by using a height modifier.

@@ashleys3dprintshop I have a print with PLA Matte, 0.2, 1mm. Just black box white print.

You are awesome. Thank you very much.

I have tried expensive and cheap and the printer eats it all and spits out wonderful prints. Of course the bane of my printing life is inland yellow pla. Never had a good batch. Thank you for sharing.😀

@@dwintster printing via the ams can either be relatively quick or paingfully slow depending on your model. Each color change adds about 60-90 per color change. So simple 5 color swap may be about 10 at worst. But if you are changing colors multiple times a layer the overall print time will explode. There are several mitigations steps. Larger layer height for the whole model or parts. (Reducing the overall number of layers at the expense of detail in the z height) Changing colors for ”blocks of areas” Think of a flag straight 🇩🇪 flag where you may only have a few changes total. Reducing purge amounts can speed up the color swaps but by a few seconds but the time savings compounds. Painting is an option but I recommend post processing like sanding / priming the painted area first

@ashleys3dprintshop thanks for the detailed response. I'm all too familiar with the painting process I had used it on every prototype I built throughout my degree in Industrial Design and at my internships on 3d printed parts and handcrafted alike to get a great surface finish. I would rather not paint things when possible since it dramatically increase the cost of production. Though it's something to consider in the design phase. There is nothing like dry and wet sanding and patching with bondo and car body filler before spray painting with a lacquer based paints with a clear coat on top. (Your paint job is only as good as the surface finish underneath.) Though I have had a lot of experience with 3d printing, it's been SLS and SLA at work, I decided to go with fdm because I didn't want to deal with the toxic chemicals at home. (I have very little experience with fdm.) Thanks again for explaining everything in detail. One more question, how much of a difference do nozzle sizes make? .6 for vase mode.2 for sculptures. Is there a drastic difference in quality?

@@alexanderkempf9828 rounded or curved tops get a benefit with lower adaptive layers. Depending on your model there may not be enough layers to fix the stair effect. So basically there will always be a stair setp effect but you can reduce it with the lowest layer height. Quality can be improved with line width too. There is a limit though. I recommend the Line width video but short option for a .4mm nozzle would be a line width of .3mm for outer walls/text. I started writing before asking a question but what are you trying to improve? Curved top, flat top, text etc?

@@ashleys3dprintshop i’ll take a look at your other video. I’m essentially trying to design something that looks like a sand dune in the shape of a half dollar; in other words, imagine a puck the size of a half dollar that has a completely flat bottom but the top has a gentle curve to it that slopes upward on one side. I’m running into the classic problem of the shallow part of the incline looking very blocky, but when the slope is very steep, it looks totally fine. Even printing at the smallest possible layer height with the smallest possible nozzle (0.2 mm), there is still a blocky, topographic map effect where the incline is shallow. The only way I was able to solve it was to just sand it down, but that takes way too long.

@@Chad.The.Flornadian Good call out. You can treat them similar to parts.

I haven't released a full video on this but you may be served with "ironing" under the global settings go to QUALITY Ironing. You can iron top most surface, all top surfaces or all solid layers. Keep in mind this will add to the print time but can make for a pleasant surface. If you are using a textured plate it will not have the same finish so keep that in mind.

Flat tops do not benefit much with variable layer height as it only affects the layers before the top.

Great tip! I'm sitting here next to clear filament and never ran it with a higher linewidth so that is an excellent use case. I need to experiment with speed and temp too. If you find a good mix of settings would you mind sharing?

Vectorizer was free while in beta last year. There are a few ways to create an svg file both free and paid. Also you can grab SVG files from online too. Be aware some files are to detailed to work in the slicer however.

Thank you very much. 😀

Thank you kindly! 😁

Glad it was helpful! Thank you so much I appreciate that. With all of the positive feedback it is a powerful motivator to keep going.

@@ashleys3dprintshop Keep going! Keep going!!

Hello. That was one of my earlier videos showing one way to make flush text. There are many ways to do it found here. Cut tool 100% optional. 😄 kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqmpgpmPn5KVl68

Your text size does matter. As for a simple tip you can lower the line width to .3mm if if your text is coming out bad. Line width tutorial kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWeQopuOZ7hnf7s Also if you want to see my model to test. makerworld.com/en/models/528398#profileId-445491

@@cbgslinger thank you very much. Apparently I gave up on-height modifier too earlier.There isn't way to have more than one in a model. On the left on layers there isn't + - set of buttons that add more. I'll post a followup in a later video or community post.

@@nakleh 😀Thank you very much for watching and commenting.

@@ashleys3dprintshop thank you more! Can I guess where you're from? I detect a Pennsylvania accent? (I'm from NYC)

actually you don't have to answer that, for privacy reasons..

I feel I didn't do the modifier justice with the amount of options it opens up. Thank you for watching and commenting. Tell me how it works out.

Hello. I assume you are using either filezilla or winscp the settings are ip: use ip of printer username: bblp (lower case) password: user access code (also case sensitive port 990 require implicit encryption You may get a prompt to accept certificates, allow or say yes. Most ftp programs should work fine. If you are using a mac the built in FTP program just doesn't work I tied a bunch of my tricks and it will not connect at all. but filezilla can work on mac computers.

@@supermario-N64 Hello. I would make-sure few things are happening. 1. PC and printer are on the same network.. 2. Put printer in lan only, you may need to make note of the access code 3 Open bambu studio, go to device at the top. 4. Click the printer on the top left and there should be a drop down 5. Select Printer, it may ask for the access code. (Pay attention to CaSe sensitivity) Some networks have an odd setting called wireless isolation that blocks devices from seeing each other on the network. This as atypical but if could block access as well.

@@ashleys3dprintshop Thanks for the fast reply They are on the same network Only the lan is enabled My problem is a at step 4 when i open the list my printer isnt listed there ,i am going to look into that wireless isolation thing

@@supermario-N64 Hello again. Apologies about the late reply. Are you using windows or mac? If windows, check to see if you are listed as a public network in your network settings. 1.Right click the network icon and go to network and settings. or just click the windows key on your keyboard and go to settings network. 2.from there properties 3.check private and exit ********************* The other issue could be firewalls blocking internal network traffic. If you are running norton/mcafee or any 3rd party security program open the program. Look for firewall settings. Somewhere in there should be an option to "trust/allow" the local network. **************** Lastly make sure you are not using a VPN program. whole point of a VPN is to redirect traffic from your PC to another pc. This can also be an issue with internal network connections. ***************** Wireless Isolation is a very unique setting on a router. and may be harder to pin down so I would try the above first. easiest way to see if Wireless isolation is on is to just print to a normal (2d) wireless printer. If you can do that then wireless isolation isnt a factor.

@@ashleys3dprintshop i will check these out and thanks you are being very helpful btw no need to apologies your replies are very fast i will reach out when i try what you recommended

Thanks a lot! I truly appreciate that. 😁

Hello, I take it you would like to see my infill chart? I can upload it to makerworld if you would like.

@@ashleys3dprintshop Yes, please! I am going to try to create one myself but with different settings than you used but I surely would love to download the one you created and print for reference. Thank you

Hello. Do you have a specific question about modifiers? Have you seen my earlier videos as they are a good starting place before reaching this point.

We are still neophytes with the channel but every comment I try to take to heart, and adjust. It's always a balancing act of show, tell but keep everything flowing. 😊many thanks.

Glad it was helpful! I wasnt sure exacty how to show "the most versatile tool" without something we all can recreate and modify from scratch but you have verified we made the right call. lol. Thank you.

Much appreciated! I don't mind being a small channel. I learn and grow with the community. Thank you for stopping by.

Wow, thanks! I learn from everyone and try to share it when I can. Thank you very much for the watch, comment and positivity.

@@Robothut I will cherish every rewatch. 😂 On another note, perhaps I should change up the pacing. It can be an overwhelming topic as it has a ton of situational applications. The core that is shown, with examples, is more of a starting place. Thank your for the watch[s] and comment.

Hey hey. Everything was done with. 4mm nozzle .16mm layer height for the girl. The dragon and base were a mix of. 24 for the dragon body. .20mm for the dragon head. I tend to make the items most noticeable lower layer height and the larger stuff larger layerheight. The base was printed with.28mm Lightning infill for everything showing in the video (they are on the lighter side) Thank you for the question. It's been a while since I looked at that print and but it was one of my favorites.

@@daveapplemotors Thank you for spending time to watch and comment. We will keep the videos coming if they are in some way valued. 🙂

@@archemity There are certainly many ways to make this work. Setting global things before making the 17 cubes can work, then you would just need to change the base "rounded rectangle" I could also make the changes in the first rounded rectangle before making the 17 clones. As I was still working out exactly what I wanted it was more of a free form creation. I made a ton of tests and revisions off camera but I wanted to make the video consise. In the end it made for a short time lapse to music. 😁 Excellent observation. Thank you for watching and commenting.

@@ansiaaa I'm sure there are a ton of personalities that could fit the roll but I do appreciate the compliment. /Bambu lab if you are watching.... Have your people contact my people. Lol🤣

@@bloodyfinger5The plate, currently, always stays dark. So the light mode and the dark mode setting has the same dark color build plate. The alternative is to make the parts look lighter against the dark plate by changing the parts colors. I remember seeing a feedback recommendation form on Bambu forums or their github page. That would be a good recommendation.

@@dsemolian3071 😁😁

@@meawayfromhome I truly appreciate the watch, comment, and compliment. It's one of the driving factors for this channel. 😊

Thank you. I may revisit the topic as there are some additions things you can do.

really? I'll have to try that! you mean previously added modifiers stop working after the cut, ot even modifiers added after the cut?

@@ansiaaa modifiers added after a cut WITH CONNECTORS It’s the connectors that are the problem I was hoping you might find a workaround as you are very good with this stuff

I use modifiers to strengthen sections of my 3D printed aircraft so that I can add strength without adding to much weight It means you can add lines of modifiers that act like wing ribs etc I was devastated that the connectors stop modifiers as joining aircraft parts without connectors is very hard with super glue

@@nellodude yeah I got the part "with modifiers", I just didn't want to repeat it :D btw, I'm not Ashley, just a random dude. I'll try that myself as I said anyway

@@nellodude hey I tried and I got a solution for you. remember I asked you if modifiers weren't working if you added them after the spit (with connectors) or if they would stop working after the cut (with connectors)? if you cut (with connectors) and then add the modifiers, it won't work, but... if you add the modifier and THEN cut (with connectors), the modifier will be automatically added to both parts, and it will work normally

@@OigresAviap You are awesome! Thank you. 😁

Glad it was helpful! There is more that can be done with the modifiers but this should be a good starting point. Thank you for watching and commenting. 😁

Thank you. Consistent and steady to get the info out there. 🙂