Bang & Olufsen Beolit 15 speaker battery replacing Videos For Bored People

[@SinghaTheLionPhotography]

Hi, thank you for this video and your previous one in repairing the original Battery. I just had the opportunity to rescue a unit that I couldn't rebuild the old battery (nothing came on even if I read 8v, likely BMS needs to be reprogramed). This upgrade that your doing is exactly what I should do! Do you mind linking to me the parts that you got from aliexpress or other places? (Namely usb c controller and wiring) Would like to order them to do the upgrade and replace my existing battery. Thank you!

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

Hi , I'm happy I could help. I hope you can repair yours . I made a bit of mistake in repairing mine cause I ordered the 1A module and it takes like 5 or 6 hours to charge the speaker. If I ever open it again I will change it for the 2A or 4A module. This is what i used .18650 Lithium Battery Multi-Cell 2S 3S 4S Type-C To 8.4V 12.6V 16.8V Step-Up Boost LiPo Polymer Li-Ion Charger 7.4V 11.1V 14.8V a.aliexpress.com/_EzMvLXR

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

You can use the wiring and plug from the original battery

[@SinghaTheLionPhotography]

@@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np Thank you so much! and noted on the higher 2A or 4A module! I also do want to check, Did you disconnect the PSU from the unit? While benchtesting my battery, i bypassed it using my PSU, However when i had the original PSU reconnected, it wouldn't power on until I had both the battery (powered by bench PSU) and Wall plugged in as well. is this normal behaviour? I also presume that this speaker cannot be powered soley on Wall power? (during my testing i removed the battery and plugged directly and nothing would happened)

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

@@SinghaTheLionPhotography the psu is still connected on my speaker just in case I ever want to revert it to original, but it makes no difference if its plugged or not with the current setup Without the original battery connected the speaker will not work even if its plugged in.

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

The only downside with the current setup is that on the b&o app it won't show the battery percentage anymore. But since the battery lasts over 10 hours on 90-100% volume that's not a big problem

[@mibook84]

Hi, I recently bought both a Beolit 17 and then a Beolit 15. Having had both a Beolit 12 (still have, battery dead but works without it), and a beolit 15 that I sold I know the sound performance so when I saw a cheap non working 17 I bought it to try to fix. Did not have too much time and some things came in the way but I realized I could flash firmware and trigger it to look like it charged, although it never really did. I then found the beolit 15 and first mixed up the names and thought it was the same as the 17, however I quickly realized it wasnt. But - I did notice that the batteries were the same. The beolit 15 i bought used and non-working was bought to see if I could salvage parts to make one working speaker. Guess if I was chocked when I realized that the battery from the 15 worked perfectly to charge in the 17! I can now recharge and use that unit with the battery from the 15. The 15 will also turn on with that battery charged so I realize now that I was lucky to find a beolit 17 with a worn out battery. And that I was even luckier in a way to find a beolit 15 that had a working battery but non-working charging circuitry. It makes sense to me that B&O moved the charging part to an external puck via USB-C if they had lots of faults with the beolit 15 charging circuitry. I guess it still has some inside to adjust from usb-c but it is clearly re-designed. ANYWAY, I dont want to fiddle with new batteries because I would be happy to just have the 15 work with a cable always. Therefore I prefer to just solder a DC-female to the red and black wire and more or less call it a day. From what I can see it seems like your device turns on without the yellow middle in battery balance wire, and without the wires for the temperature sensor. Thats great because I can then discard of the circuit from the dead battery too. Im probably drilling a hole through the device cable compartment and the battery compartment so that the entire wire with the five wires can be accessed without taking the device apart for future possible updates. But now I am just a bit stuck on what DC-power adapter I should buy, and if it would work well. I cant imagine it wouldnt. Most adaptors I find are quite weak, like 7.2V 600mah. I think that is way to low for the device to have capacity to play at full volume if I would want that. Do you know what kind of power draw it would need to be able to deliver and what I should buy? Would be really nice to be able to use it without battery and save myself from future disappointment when the batteries dies again.. Beolit 17 can continue as it is for now as the battery worked there but in the future I might look for the same solution there.. As closing words I really want to adress the design idea in the hardware, because it seem to be really crappy. How did they think when they made the devices unable to even turn on when their batteries die? Its like the worst hardware design Ive seen in years! They also dont have any information that makes this easy to understand. I see now after its been a few months that more and more of these devices end up on after market sale sites sold as dead devices and it saddens me that a lot of devices are probably just thrown away. Really sad.

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

@@mibook84 hi , you can use a power supply of 9v and at least 2A straight to the battery terminals of the b&o 15 with no problem. But remove the battery first.

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

@mibook84 BTW I had a few b&o speakers and the battery it's almost the same on all of them but also the battery life its rubbish on all oh them that's why I made my own and its way cheaper

[@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np]

@mibook84 like I said in the video you only need the red and black wire to make the speaker work. The rest of the wires are temperature sensor and voltage limiter and you don't need it to turn the speaker on.

[@mibook84]

@@Videosforboredpeople-bt3np Yea I saw and I was amazed. I dont have the A2 but I have a A1 and P2. I am surprised they had to hide theses shitty batteries so far in the device. They could have done that better.. I just wish they had made it easier to integrate in a home multiroom system too. May I just ask you why the power supply should be 9V 2A? As the batteries are 3.7 or 7.4 in pair with a maximum out of 4400mah, if I understand right. I am perhaps a bit slow when it comes to this but I also havent replaced batteries with DC before. But it seem like a good thing to do. I often worry about devices in my home that carries batteries for no reason.